Simple recipe
This species is cosmopolitan, and is a great favorite on the Continent—in France being known as theCoulemelle, in Italy asBubbola maggiore, and in Spain asCogomelos. It is by many considered as the choicest of all mushrooms, and is indeed a delicious morsel when quickly broiled over coals, seasoned to taste with salt and pepper and butter melted in the gills, and served hot on buttered toast. Other recipes are noted in a later chapter. The scurfy spots and stems should be removed before cooking.
PLATE XTHE PASTURE MUSHROOM
Agaricus procerus
Pileus:At first egg-shaped, finally expanded like a parasol four to seven inches in diameter, the apex raised in a prominent mound or "umbo." Color pale buff or creamy, occasionally almost pure white, more or less regularly spotted with the brown shaggy patches of the separating epidermis, which remains of the pale brown color on the "umbo." Skin thick and somewhat tough; substance hygrometric, drying and swelling naturally in its haunts.Gills:Unequal in length; crowded; at first almost white, finally becoming creamy or pale buff.Stem:Tall, slender, equal, hollow, and fibrous; bulbous at base, but with no sign of a "cup;" separated from the gills above by a distinct space; surface streaked and speckled with brown, encircled by a loose ring.Spores:White, and, like the whole plant, fragrant aromatic—more so, perhaps, than any other fungus.Taste:Distinctly sweet and "nutty," slightly pungent when dry.Habitat:Pastures and fields, occasionally woods.Season:Summer.
Pileus:At first egg-shaped, finally expanded like a parasol four to seven inches in diameter, the apex raised in a prominent mound or "umbo." Color pale buff or creamy, occasionally almost pure white, more or less regularly spotted with the brown shaggy patches of the separating epidermis, which remains of the pale brown color on the "umbo." Skin thick and somewhat tough; substance hygrometric, drying and swelling naturally in its haunts.
Gills:Unequal in length; crowded; at first almost white, finally becoming creamy or pale buff.
Stem:Tall, slender, equal, hollow, and fibrous; bulbous at base, but with no sign of a "cup;" separated from the gills above by a distinct space; surface streaked and speckled with brown, encircled by a loose ring.
Spores:White, and, like the whole plant, fragrant aromatic—more so, perhaps, than any other fungus.
Taste:Distinctly sweet and "nutty," slightly pungent when dry.
Habitat:Pastures and fields, occasionally woods.
Season:Summer.
PLATE X
Agaricus Procerus.
Hygrometric properties
This species is especially free from the swarming grubs too commonly found in mushrooms. It is highly hygrometric, dries naturally even while standing in the pasture, in which condition it is decidedly aromatic in fragrance and nutty sweet to the taste, as described. Indeed, it is sometimes called "the nut mushroom." Absorbing moisture from the dews and rains, it again becomes pulpy and enlarged, thus alternating for days between its juicy and dry condition, in which latter state it may be gathered and kept for winter use. It is a palatable morsel at all times, but especially in the prime of its first expansion, each successive alternation, with its gradual loss of spores, affecting its full flavor.
Generic characters
Among the wild species of mushrooms which the novice might possibly mistake for the common "mushroom" of the markets—which is popularly supposed to be theonly ediblevariety, as distinguished from "toadstools"—is the Russula group. They are extremely frequent in our woods from spring to late autumn, and have many features in common. Their caps vary in color from a gray-green, suggesting cheese-mould, to olive-red, scarlet-red, and purplish. The gills are generally of the same length, or practically so, occasionally double-branched, beginning at the stem and usually extending to the rim of the cap, at which portion they are covered by themere skin of the pileus, a slightly fluted appearance being observable from above, which indicates the location of the radiating laminæ below (Plate 12, fig. 6).
The stem may be white or cream-colored, or perhaps stained or mottled with the color of the cap.
Principal species
There are at least four of these edible Russulæ that we are certain of meeting in our walks in the woods: The green Russula (R. virescens), with its mottled cap of mouldy or sage green; the various-gilled Russula (R. heterophylla), varying in the lengths of its gill plates; the purple Russula (R. lepida), whose cap varies from bright red to dull purple; and the red Russula (R. alutacea), which presents a variety of shades of red, from bright to dull. Having once identified the Russula as a group, or the common characteristics of the genus, we may take our pick from all of these delicious species for the table; but we must avoid one other member of the genus, also quite common, and which frequently masquerades in the guise of some of the bright red varieties above mentioned. This is theR. emetica, whose obnoxious qualities are indicated by its classical surname, and which will be separately considered.
RUSSULA VIRESCENS
(Showing mottled cap of occasional specimen, and variations in gills. 1 even; 2 forked; 3 dimidiate.)
Agaricus (Russula) virescens
Specific characters
Our first species, the green Russula, is to be found throughout the summer in hard-wood groves, and is apt to frequent the same immediate locality from year to year. I know one such veritable mushroom bed in the woods near by, where I am almost certain of my mess of Russulæ almost any day in their season. This species is shown in its various stages of development and also in section in Plate 11. Its substance isfirmand solidcreamy white. The pileus, at first almost hemispherical, as it pushes its way through the earth, at length becomes convex, with a slight hollow at the centre, and later ascends in a gentle slope from centre to rim. Its color is sage green, or mouldy green, usually quite unbroken in tint at centre, but more or less disconnected into spots as it approaches the circumference by the gradual expansion of the cap, the creamy undertint appearing like network between the separated patches of color. The substance of the cap becomes gradually thinned towards the circumference, where the mere cuticle connects the gills, the position of these gills being observable from above in a faint fluting of the edge, a peculiarity of all the Russulæ. The cuticle peelsreadily some distance from the edge, leaving the projecting tips of the gills exposed in a row of comb-like teeth, but usually adheres towards the centre of cap. The gills, with rare exceptions, areall of the same length, white or creamy in color, firm and thick, butvery brittle, easily broken into fragments by a rude touch, a characteristic of all the group; spores, white. The stem is short, stout, and solid, and usually tapers towards the base. There is no vestige of a cup or veil atanystage of growth.
A fine specimen of the green Russula should measure five inches in diameter when fully open, but three inches is probably the average size.
The noxious Russulæ
When once acquainted with the above as atypeof the Russula group, noting the firm substance, straight, equal gills, and their brittle texture; the sweet, nutty flavor common to all the edible species, these become readily identified, thenoxiousRussulæ, as in the brilliant pink or scarletR. emetica(Plate 13), beingacridandpepperyto the taste.
Green Russula often sufficient
In an auspicious season and in a congenial habitat—usually an open wood with scant undergrowth and preferably raked clean of dead leaves—the green Russula is often abundant. Familiarity even with this one species will often afford a sufficiency of fungus food during its season. A lady amateur mycophagist of the writer's acquaintance, whose home is located at the border of such a wood as is above described, and who is especially fond of the green Russula, is never at a loss for this especially prized tidbit as a reward for her daily stroll among the trees. A visitor may often see upon her buffet a small glass dish filled with the mushrooms, nicely scraped and cut in pieces—an ever-present relish between meals. For even in their natural state, as she discriminatingly says, they are "as sweet as chestnuts." This is especially the case with the "buttons" or younger specimens.
PLATE XITHE GREEN RUSSULA
Russula virescens
Pileus:Very firm; solid, dull, dry-surfaced, as with a fine "flock"; mouldy green or creamy, with sage-greenish broken spots more united at centre; occasionally entirely green, with warty patches of darker hue. At first globular, then convex with flat top, at length expanded and hollowed towards centre.Gills:Pale, creamy white; commonly all of equal length, but frequently unequal and forked; very brittle, breaking in pieces at a rude touch.Stem:Solid; creamy white; no veil.Taste:Very mild, sweet, and nut-like.Habitat:In woods—July-September.Diameter of pileus, ideal specimen, four inches.
Pileus:Very firm; solid, dull, dry-surfaced, as with a fine "flock"; mouldy green or creamy, with sage-greenish broken spots more united at centre; occasionally entirely green, with warty patches of darker hue. At first globular, then convex with flat top, at length expanded and hollowed towards centre.
Gills:Pale, creamy white; commonly all of equal length, but frequently unequal and forked; very brittle, breaking in pieces at a rude touch.
Stem:Solid; creamy white; no veil.
Taste:Very mild, sweet, and nut-like.
Habitat:In woods—July-September.
Diameter of pileus, ideal specimen, four inches.
PLATE XI
Russula Virescens.
Russula lepida
RUSSULA LEPIDA—CONTORTED AND CRACKED PILEUS
Color of cap misleading
Specific characters
This, perhaps the most common species, is figured in Plate 12, fig. 3. It corresponds with the foregoing in size as well as in general shape, firm texture, and friable nature of the gills. The pileus of this species frequently assumes eccentric shapes, or is often cracked, as seen in the accompanying cut. Its name of "purple" is probably local in its application, as it is known also as theredRussula, neither of which titles is at all distinctive. Indeed, the color of thecapis often a misleading character for identification, as a given species may vary greatly in this particular. This feature is thus generally omitted in purely scientific descriptions, more dependence being placed upon the tint of the flesh and that of the spore surface, the laminæ or gills, which are more permanent and reliable as a character. Thus, in the present species,R. lepida, the tint of the pileus or cap is often of a deep dull purplish red or ruddy wine color. Another authority describes it as violet-red and cherry-red or slightly tawny, paler at circumference. Berkeley, in hisBritish Fungi, omits any reference to the color of the cap, as evidently of little value in identification. But from numerous examples gathered by the present writer, the color may, I think, be safely averaged under the general hue of dark, subdued red inclining to maroon. The surface is dull, as with a fine dust or plum-like bloom, and thus without polish. Occasional specimens appear almost velvety in the sheen of surface. But the tints of the flesh and the gills are always uniform, theleafletsor gills beingpure whiteor very slightly creamy, continuous from stem to rim or occasionally forked, not crowded, curved in outline in open specimen, with broadest width near the circumference of cap. The flesh is white or slightly creamy, firm and compact as in the former species, with the same variations of outline from early stage to maturity. The stem is white, solid, and generally more or less tinted or streaked vertically with rose or pale crimson (Fig. 8). The taste of the flesh is sweet and appetizing.
PLATE XIIEDIBLE RUSSULÆ
1. Russula heterophylla—Variable Russula
Pileus:Firm, solid; greenish or pinkish-gray; at first convex, with flat top, ultimately rising from centre to rim.Gills:Milk-white; extremely brittle, like all the Russulæ, and easily crumbled (see Fig. 7); long, short, and forked intermixed. Fig. 5.Stem:Milk-white; solid.Taste:Mild and sweet.
Pileus:Firm, solid; greenish or pinkish-gray; at first convex, with flat top, ultimately rising from centre to rim.
Gills:Milk-white; extremely brittle, like all the Russulæ, and easily crumbled (see Fig. 7); long, short, and forked intermixed. Fig. 5.
Stem:Milk-white; solid.
Taste:Mild and sweet.
2. Russula alutacea—Yellow-gilled Russula
Pileus:Firm, solid; shape as in above; color very variable, from bright to deep red; cuticle thin at rim, where the lines of junction of gills are readily discernible from above by the depressed channels. Fig. 6.Gills:Equal, brittle, broad; yellow-buff color in all stages. Fig. 4.Stem:Solid; milk-white, commonly stained or streaked with red towards the base.Taste:Sweet and nut-like.
Pileus:Firm, solid; shape as in above; color very variable, from bright to deep red; cuticle thin at rim, where the lines of junction of gills are readily discernible from above by the depressed channels. Fig. 6.
Gills:Equal, brittle, broad; yellow-buff color in all stages. Fig. 4.
Stem:Solid; milk-white, commonly stained or streaked with red towards the base.
Taste:Sweet and nut-like.
3. Russula lepida—Purple Russula
Pileus:In shape like above, varying in color from bright red to dull, subdued purplish, with a distinct bloom.Gills:White, broad, principally even, occasionally forked as in Fig. 1; like the above, extremely brittle. Fig. 7.Stem:Solid; white, usually stained and streaked with pink. Fig. 8.Taste:Sweet, and similar to above.Average diameter of extended pileus of each of these species about three and one-half inches; veil absent in each.Habitat:All grow in woods—July-September.
Pileus:In shape like above, varying in color from bright red to dull, subdued purplish, with a distinct bloom.
Gills:White, broad, principally even, occasionally forked as in Fig. 1; like the above, extremely brittle. Fig. 7.
Stem:Solid; white, usually stained and streaked with pink. Fig. 8.
Taste:Sweet, and similar to above.
Average diameter of extended pileus of each of these species about three and one-half inches; veil absent in each.
Habitat:All grow in woods—July-September.
PLATE XII
Edible Russulæ.
RUSSULA HETEROPHYLLA. R. ALUTACEA. R. LEPIDA.
Russula alutacea
Botanical characters
Our third example of the Russula is one which is also quite common in our woods, and which might in the extreme variation of its color be confounded with the last by a careless observer, as indeed both might be still further confounded with the poisonous member bearing the red tint, and which will be hereafter considered. TheRussula alutacea(Pl. 12, figs. 2, 4, 6) is a delicious species. In general size and contour it resembles the foregoing. The color of the cap varies from bright-red to blood-red or even approaching the purplish red of the preceding species, lightening towards edge. But we have a clear distinction in the color of thegills, which aredistinctly yellowish, pale ochre, or nankeen, in all stages of the mushroom,or even tawnyin old specimens. They are, moreover, usuallyall of even length, being straight and continuous from stem to circumference of pileus, none of them forked, their juncture with the edge of the cap being clearly manifest from above by the thinness of the cuticle. The flesh is white, stem firm and solid, white and smooth, often tinted with pink or red. The flesh of the cap often appears pinkish upon peeling the cuticle from the edge. The taste resembles that of the previous species—sweet and nutty.
Russula heterophylla
Botanical characters
Growing in company with both of the above is frequently to be seen another species, which is somewhat protean in its accomplishments of color, but which in the character of its gills, as implied in its scientific name, gives us a ready means of identification—heterophylla—various-leaved (Pl. 12, figs. 1 and 5). In the previous examples of Russulæ the gills have been commonly straight, continuous from stem to edge of cap, or more rarely forked and continuous in the bifurcation. In the present species we have both of these conditions, combined also with what are calleddimidiategills, orshorterleaflets, which reach, perhaps, only half-way from rim to stem, all crowded together and alternating. The color of the cap is very variable—occasionally pinkish-ash color or dull pinkish-gray inclining to green or olive or even red. Its surface is smoother than in the foregoing species, being almost polished, and the pellicle of the cap is usually noticeably thinner. Having found such a specimen, possessing also all the other attributes of shape, firmness of flesh, and dry brittleness of gills, if tasted and found sweet in flavor it may be eaten without the slightest fear, and like its congeners will be found a delicious morsel, whether nibbled raw, as the squirrels are so fond of doing, or served hot on toast as an entrée, or otherwise prepared according to taste.
Delicious broiled Russula
Various methods prevail in the culinary preparation of the Russula mushroom, many of which are suggested among the receipts in another chapter, but broiling is perhaps the most simple and generally satisfactory. Having thoroughly cleaned the top, or, if desired, peeled the cuticle, place the mushrooms on a gridiron over a hot fire, gills downward, for a few moments, sufficient to allow them to be heated through without scorching. Then reverse them and repeat the process, melting a small piece of butter in the gills and salting and peppering to taste; serve hot on toast or in the platter with roast beef or fowl. They are also delicious fried in the ordinary way, either with or without batter.
AN INFESTED SPECIMEN
The Russula is particularly in favor among the fungus-eating insects, whose rapid development and voracity are consistently related to the ephemeral nature of their food. A Russula specimen showingbarely a trace of insect life when gathered will sometimes prove literally honey-combed and totally unfit for food in the space of twenty-four hours. It is therefore well to cut each specimen in sections before venturing upon its preparation for the table, and to profit thereby according to our individual fastidiousness, as suggested onpage 37.
While the above esculent species of Russulæ are being familiarized by the tyro, he must now be put on guard against a certain dangerous species of the group, which is sure to claim his attention, being especially fond of the good company of its cousins, and likely to do some mischief through its frequent disguise.
Russula emetica
The poisonous Russula
A warning tang
The variability in the coloring of the three edible species already described brings them occasionally into such close similarity with the gamut of color of the one common poisonous species of the group that this enemy must also be familiarized ere we venture too confidently upon our Russula diet. TheRussula emetica(Plate 13), as its name implies, is at war with luxurious gastronomy, but its distinction from the harmless varieties is, after all, quite simple. Its frequent general similarity toR. lepidaandR. alutaceais such that the amateur should hardly rely upon the botanical characters alone. There is but one safe, as it is a simple, rule for him:He should taste every specimen of his Russula of whatever kind before venturing upon its use as food. All of the sweet and palatable Russulæ are esculent. When he chances upon theR. emeticahe will be aware of its important demoralizing resources in the peppery-hot tingle of his tongue, which, if not instantly perceived, will within the space of a minute assert itself distinctly. All such acrid specimens should be excluded, as a single one would be sufficient to bring an ignominious denouement to an otherwise delectable feast. In the typicalR. emeticathe pileus is a bright, brilliant red—which, as we have said, is very variable, as indicated in our plate—often polished and shining; the gills broad,equal, straight, continuous, not crowded, andwhite, as is the flesh beneath the peeled cuticle. The stem is white or pink. The cap will average, perhaps, three inches in diameter, though occasionally reaching the dimensions indicated by the marks in plate, or even larger.
PLATE XIIIPOISONOUS OR EMETIC MUSHROOM
Russula emetica
Pileus:Expansion two to four inches; color varying from pale bright pink to deep scarlet; very smooth.Gills:Broad (in section), mostly equal in length, and continuous from edge of cap to stem; not crowded; white.Stem:White or pinkish.Spores:White, like all Russulæ.Taste:Hot and peppery.Habitat:Woods, with other Russulæ.Season:July-September.
Pileus:Expansion two to four inches; color varying from pale bright pink to deep scarlet; very smooth.
Gills:Broad (in section), mostly equal in length, and continuous from edge of cap to stem; not crowded; white.
Stem:White or pinkish.
Spores:White, like all Russulæ.
Taste:Hot and peppery.
Habitat:Woods, with other Russulæ.
Season:July-September.
Note.—While, for conservative reasons, the poisonous reputation of this species is here perpetuated, it is quite probable that such condemnation is unwarranted, except as to therawmushroom. The peppery tang and demoralizing powers are now claimed to be dissipated in cooking, and theEmeticawill doubtless soon be more generally included with its congeners among the esculents, thus bringing the entire genusRussulainto the friendly group.Captain Charles McIlvaine is largely responsible for this conversion in favor ofEmetica. His individual experiments warrant him in pronouncing this species "as good as the rest" when cooked. Others of the writer's acquaintance, following his example, echo his opinion.
Note.—While, for conservative reasons, the poisonous reputation of this species is here perpetuated, it is quite probable that such condemnation is unwarranted, except as to therawmushroom. The peppery tang and demoralizing powers are now claimed to be dissipated in cooking, and theEmeticawill doubtless soon be more generally included with its congeners among the esculents, thus bringing the entire genusRussulainto the friendly group.Captain Charles McIlvaine is largely responsible for this conversion in favor ofEmetica. His individual experiments warrant him in pronouncing this species "as good as the rest" when cooked. Others of the writer's acquaintance, following his example, echo his opinion.
PLATE XIII
Russula Emetica(POISONOUS)
Agaricus ostreatus
What a mass of nutritious food do we occasionally pass in innocence or spurn with our foot upon the old stump or fallen log in the woods!—a neglected feast, indeed, if the specialists on edible fungi are to be believed; a feast, in truth, for a big family, if we chance upon even an average cluster of the "vegetable oyster," which is pictured inPlate 14.
A "vegetable oyster"
I have commonly observed this species, theAgaricus ostreatus, in the autumn, and this is the season given for its appearance in Europe by the authorities;but according to certain American specialists, notably Charles McIlvaine, it is common in our woods in spring, even as early as March, and through the summer. It is usually found in large clusters, similar to our illustration, growing upon decaying stumps and the trunks of various trees. The "oyster" is a gilled mushroom which growssidewisefrom its position, the stem being usually lateral and very short, though occasionally quite prolonged, the two varieties being indicated in the accompanying cut.
AGARICUS OSTREATUS—Variations in Form
The individual mushroom may be five or six inches in breadth, a cluster affording several pounds in weight. The color of the upper surface is light brown or buff, varying to yellowish-ashen, according to age, and the gills are dirty white of various lengths; spores white.
PLATE XIVTHE OYSTER MUSHROOM
Agaricus ostreatus
Pileus:Four to six inches in diameter; smooth. Color, dull, light yellowish, sometimes pale ochre or grayish.Gills:Dingy white; of various lengths, extending down the stem.Stem:Short or obsolete; on the side of pileus.Spores:White.Taste:Agreeable; suggesting the flavor of the cooked oyster; texture tough in older specimens.Odor:Pleasant.Habitat:On old tree trunks and fallen logs, occasionally in dense masses.
Pileus:Four to six inches in diameter; smooth. Color, dull, light yellowish, sometimes pale ochre or grayish.
Gills:Dingy white; of various lengths, extending down the stem.
Stem:Short or obsolete; on the side of pileus.
Spores:White.
Taste:Agreeable; suggesting the flavor of the cooked oyster; texture tough in older specimens.
Odor:Pleasant.
Habitat:On old tree trunks and fallen logs, occasionally in dense masses.
PLATE XIV
Agaricus Ostreatus.
This species and the one following belong to the subdivision of the typical genus Agaricus, called Leucospori—white spored. The division has many sub-genera. The particular sub-genus in which these are included is the Pleurotus, orside-footmushrooms, as they are sometimes called.
Another earlier species with whichA. ostreatusmight be confounded (A. euosmus) has spores of a rosy pinkish or lilac hue, a sufficient identification, and is accounted injurious.
THIRTY POUNDS OF VEGETABLE MEAT
The clustering growth of the "Oyster Mushroom" frequently attains huge proportions, as will be seen from the above reproduction of a photograph sent to me by a correspondent. The dimensions of the massare easily judged by the height of the gun leaning against the tree, and introduced for comparison.
Broiled oyster recipe
This "Oyster Mushroom" should be gathered in its young state, and may be served in various ways. Broiling over the coals, gills upward, seasoning with butter, pepper, and salt during the cooking, is a favorite method with most of the Agarics, but a well-known fungus epicure claims that this mushroom "may be cooked in any way that an oyster is, and will be found fine eating."
The average specimen will probably prove more ashen in hue than those represented in my plate.
Agaricus ulmarius
Appetizing qualities
This edible species of mushroom, allied to the foregoing, and which grows in similar clusters on the elm-tree, is theAgaricus ulmarius(Plate 15). While much difference of opinion prevails regarding the appetizing qualities of this mushroom or its right to a place among the esculents, this varying individual judgment has doubtless often had direct reference to the character of the particular specimen chosen for trial. Dr. M. C. Cooke is not disposed to place a high appreciation upon its qualities. "It has been customary," he says, "to regard this and some of its allies [presumably in allusion to the preceding] as alimentary, but there is no doubt that they could all be very well spared from the list." Opposed to this uncomplimentary aspersion is the testimony of other authorities who claim that "it is most delectable" and "a delicious morsel." Certain it is that in its young and tender condition only is it fit for food, as it becomes progressively tough in consistency towards maturity.
PLATE XVTHE ELM MUSHROOM
Agaricus ulmarius
Pileus:From three to five inches in diameter. Color, pale yellow or buff; smooth in young specimen, fissured, spotted, and leathery at maturity. Flesh in section white.Gills:Dingy white, becoming tawny at maturity, extending down the stem.Stem:Various in length, occasionally very short and attached to side of pileus; generally longer as in Plate, and "off centre"; white; substance solid.Spores:White.Taste:Suggesting fish when cooked.Odor:Pleasant.Habitat:Trunk of elm or from surfaces of broken or sawn branches. Often growing in dense masses covering several square feet.
Pileus:From three to five inches in diameter. Color, pale yellow or buff; smooth in young specimen, fissured, spotted, and leathery at maturity. Flesh in section white.
Gills:Dingy white, becoming tawny at maturity, extending down the stem.
Stem:Various in length, occasionally very short and attached to side of pileus; generally longer as in Plate, and "off centre"; white; substance solid.
Spores:White.
Taste:Suggesting fish when cooked.
Odor:Pleasant.
Habitat:Trunk of elm or from surfaces of broken or sawn branches. Often growing in dense masses covering several square feet.
PLATE XV
Agaricus Ulmarius.
Massive growth
As its specific name implies—Ulmus—this mushroom is devoted to the elm, upon whose trunk and branches it may be often seen, either singly, which is rare, or in great dense masses, sometimes, covering a space of several square feet, often, unfortunately, at an inaccessible height from the ground. I have in my possession a photograph which has been sent to me by an interested correspondent representing a dead tree trunk, apparently a foot in diameter, densely covered to a height of seven feet from the ground with a mass of theA. ulmarius—and presumably representing thirty or forty pounds in weight. This species is most frequently seen on apparently healthy branches, or growing from the wood of a severed limb. Its season is late summer and autumn.
Botanical characters
A small cluster of these mushrooms is seen in Plate 15. They afford a good refutation of the old-time discriminating "ban," which excluded all mushrooms which grow "sidewise," or "upon wood." The individual mushroom of this species is a horizontal grower, sometimes with a barely noticeable or obsolete stem; in other specimens this portion being quite distinct and an inch or more in length, and firm and solid in texture. The upper surface is paleyellow or buff, smooth in the younger specimens, becoming disfigured by spots and fissures with age. The flesh is white, as also are the gills, though more dingy, becoming tawny-tinted with maturity, when the entire mushroom becomes quite leathery in substance, and might well awaken doubts as to its digestibility. The spores are white.
This fungus is known in some sections as the "Fish Mushroom," referring to its peculiar flavor, the appropriateness of which appellation is suggested in the incident related by Mr. Palmer, and quoted in my last chapter.
Coprinus comatus
A plebeian toadstool
Upon a certain spot on the lawn of one of my neighbors, year after year, without fail, there springs up a most singular crop. For the first two seasons of its appearance it was looked upon with curious awe by the proprietors of the premises, and usually ignominiously spurned with the foot by the undiscriminating and destructive small boy. One day I observed about five pounds of this fungus delicacy thus scattered piecemeal about the grass, and my protest has since spared the annual crop for my sole benefit. It usually makes its appearance in late September, and continues in intermittent crops until November. A casual observer happening upon a cluster of the young mushrooms might imagine that he beheld a convention of goose eggs standing on end in the grass, their summits spotted with brown.
PLATE XVITHE SHAGGY-MANE MUSHROOM
Coprinus comatus
Pileus:Egg-shaped in young specimens; at length more cylindrical, and finally expanded, melting away in inky fluid. Color, creamy white, becoming black at edge with advancing age, as is also the case with the shaggy points upon its surface, which generally cover the pileus.Gills:Crowded; equal in length; creamy white in young specimens, becoming pink, brown, and finally black, and always moist.Stem:Cylindrical; creamy white; hollow, or with a loose cottony pith.Spores:Black, falling away in drops.Taste:Sweet, which applies only to the pink or white condition, at which time alone the species is considered esculent.Habitat:Lawns, pastures, gardens, and rich grounds in the neighborhood of barns, etc.; usually grows in dense clusters.Diameter of cylindrical pileus in average specimens, two inches.One of the most easily identified of all mushrooms.
Pileus:Egg-shaped in young specimens; at length more cylindrical, and finally expanded, melting away in inky fluid. Color, creamy white, becoming black at edge with advancing age, as is also the case with the shaggy points upon its surface, which generally cover the pileus.
Gills:Crowded; equal in length; creamy white in young specimens, becoming pink, brown, and finally black, and always moist.
Stem:Cylindrical; creamy white; hollow, or with a loose cottony pith.
Spores:Black, falling away in drops.
Taste:Sweet, which applies only to the pink or white condition, at which time alone the species is considered esculent.
Habitat:Lawns, pastures, gardens, and rich grounds in the neighborhood of barns, etc.; usually grows in dense clusters.
Diameter of cylindrical pileus in average specimens, two inches.
One of the most easily identified of all mushrooms.
PLATE XVI
Coprinus Comatus.
Inky deliquescence
If one of them is examined, it is seen to be a curious short-stemmed mushroom which never fully expands (Plate 16), perhaps five inches high, and whose surface is curiously decorated with shaggy patches. In its early stages it is white and singularly egglike, but later becomes brownish, its curved shaggy points finally changing to almost black. The concealed gills are crowded and of equal length, atfirst creamy white, but gradually changing through a whole gamut of pinks, sepias, and browns until they become black, at which time the whole substance of the cap melts on its elongated stalk—deliquesces into an unsightly inky paste, which besmears the grassand ultimately leaves only the bare white stem standing in its midst, a peculiar method of dissemination which distinguishes the group Coprinus, of which it is the most conspicuous example. This is the "shaggy-mane" mushroom,Coprinus comatus, the specific name signifying a wig—"from the fancied resemblance to a wig on a barber's block." Even a brief description is unnecessary with its portrait before us. It is a savory morsel, and it cannot be confounded with any other fungus. It frequently grows in such dense, crowded masses that a single group will afford a dinner for a family.
A DINNER FOR A FAMILY
It should be gathered while the gills are in the early white or pink stage, and may be prepared for the table in various ways, either broiled or fried, as described for previous species, or stewed with milk, or otherwise served according to the culinary hints in our later chapter, in which a special recipe for this species is found.
In a recent stroll down the main street of Litchfield, Connecticut, I observed, over the fence in a front door-yard of a summer resident, just such a dense cluster of the shaggy Coprinus, the proprietor of the premises, an appreciative habitué of Delmonico's at other seasons of the year, complacently reading his morning paper in his piazza, little dreaming of the twenty pounds of dainty diet, fit for a king, so easily available.
PLATE XVIITHE INKY TOADSTOOL
Coprinus atramentarius
Pileus:Fleshy, moist; at first egg-shaped; of a Quaker-drab, dirty white, or even pale brownish color; at length becoming expanded, umbrella-like, when it melts away in inky drops.Gills:Broad and crowded, not adhering to stem at top; creamy white in young species, becoming pinkish gray, and at length black.Stem:Firm; white; hollow.Spores:Black; shed in liquid drops.Taste:Sweet, as is also the odor, which applies to its early stage only.Habitat:About old decaying stumps and rotten wood, gardens, rich lawns, and barn-yards; usually growing in clusters, often very dense.Diameter of pileus, young state, two inches.
Pileus:Fleshy, moist; at first egg-shaped; of a Quaker-drab, dirty white, or even pale brownish color; at length becoming expanded, umbrella-like, when it melts away in inky drops.
Gills:Broad and crowded, not adhering to stem at top; creamy white in young species, becoming pinkish gray, and at length black.
Stem:Firm; white; hollow.
Spores:Black; shed in liquid drops.
Taste:Sweet, as is also the odor, which applies to its early stage only.
Habitat:About old decaying stumps and rotten wood, gardens, rich lawns, and barn-yards; usually growing in clusters, often very dense.
Diameter of pileus, young state, two inches.
PLATE XVII
Coprinus Atramentarius.
Coprinus atramentarius
Botanical characters
In frequent company with the foregoing will be found another allied species,Coprinus atramentarius(Plate 17), with the same inky propensities, which is scarcely less delicious as an article of food. In this species the shaggy feature is absent, there being merely a few obscure slightly raised stains at the summit, of a brownish color. The stem is white and hollow. The surface of the pileus is smooth and of a Quaker-drab color, occasionally dirty-white, or with a slight shade of ochre, moist to the touch, darkened by rubbing. In the eatable stage the caps are drooping, as shown in the cluster on the plate, while the mature specimen expands considerably before its inky deliquescence. Its texture when young is firm, and the thick gray cuticle peels readily, leaving an appetizing nutty-flavored morsel, delicious even when raw. The inky Agaric is frequent about barn-yards, gardens, and old stumps in woods, and usually grows in such crowded masses that the central individuals are compressed into hexagonal shape. Like the previous variety, it should be collected for food while its gills are in the white or pink stage.
Cordier claims that all the species of Coprinus are eatable at this stage. The profusion in which they occasionally abound renders it often a simple matter to obtain a bushel of them in a few minutes.