SUMMER EVENING ON THE WEST COAST OF SWEDEN.Oscar Hullgren.
SUMMER EVENING ON THE WEST COAST OF SWEDEN.
Oscar Hullgren.
Lake Roxen is a beautiful sheet of clear crystal water, with steep, rocky, and wooded shores on the one side, and fertile plains on the other. There are many old ruins that command our attention.
On the last morning of our trip, we wake up to find ourselves among those pretty islands that dot the Baltic Sea off the Swedish coast. We have, however, to pass through the Sodertelie Canal, which is entered at a village of that name. Of this you can make no mistake, for on board come women and children with baskets full of ring-twisted biscuits, which are known all over the world. At last we enter Lake Malar, surely one of the most beautiful of lakes, and with a warm sun and blue sky overhead, no one can but feel at peace and full of happiness. Soon the spires of Stockholm are visible, and the canal voyage is over when we moor at the Riddarholm quay.
There are many beautiful cities in the world, and among them should be placed Stockholm, the Venice of the North. This is due not only to the enterprise of the people, but also very largely to its situation. What a lovely picture, or series of pictures, the traveller sees as he approaches Stockholm from the sea. The steamer wends its way among hundreds of small islands, covered with luxuriant verdure and foliage. On each of these islands brightly painted wooden houses are seen, surrounded by pretty gardens of flowers. These are the country residences of Stockholm’s business men. Every such house has its landing-stage, at which small but swift steamers call every morning and evening, and it is a never-failing source of pleasure to see the meetings and partings of father and family. The Swedes are very demonstrative, and speed the parting guest with waving of handkerchief until he is out of sight, although he may be returning in a few hours.
As the steamer passes through Lake Malar,towards Stockholm, the interest ever increases, as on its shores you see towns and villages, old castles and modern villas, farm and meadow alternating with huge masses of rock, while ever and anon you meet steamers and sailing-ships on their way to and from the sea. At last the towers and spires of Stockholm are in sight.
The history of Stockholm is most interesting. There are many legends that tell of the founding of the city. Here is one. In the twelfth century some robbers, who came from the East, entered Lake Malar, plundering and destroying the ancient city Sigtuna. The inhabitants gathered together what was left them of their jewels, and having placed them in a boat, made out of a log of wood (Swedish “stock”), set it adrift on Lake Malar. Away down towards the Baltic it floated, the despoiled ones following and wondering where it would find a harbour. At last the log or stock landed at the island of Agne’s Näs. Here the gods had decided their new home should be, and the “holm” where the “stock” harboured was named Stockholm.
There is, however, more accurate information than this legend. In the days when might was right, the Vikings made Lake Malar their stronghold.Its great length, with its numerous arms, made a secure anchorage for their ships. Thence they made forays in the Baltic. They were often successful, but many a time were pursued in turn. To prevent the entry of the pursuers, they built a fortress on the central island which commands the entrance to the lake. This was in the eleventh century. From this time Stockholm dates its origin.
Around the fortress they built houses for the Vikings and their families. Alongside these were built houses and stores for traders and merchants.
By the middle of the twelfth century there were a considerable number of people gathered together round the fortress for commerce and protection.
There is one man honoured by the people of Stockholm as the founder of the city. This was Birger Jarl, who was a King in all but name. He built walls and towers round the houses on the largest island, gave it the name and privileges of a city, and styled it the capital of Sweden. As he was a man of great power and influence, many more people were attracted to it. This city then took the place of Upsala, which before had been the seat of government. Birger Jarl’s son, Waldemar, completed the work of his father, and enclosed the threeislands within one large fortification. It soon became the centre of trade in Sweden, but could not possibly increase much in area, as the rovers did not encourage any building on the mainland, and would give no protection to anyone who dwelt outside the city walls.
Stockholm had many ups and downs, and when Gustavus Vasa, the Liberator of Sweden, entered the city on Midsummer’s Day, 1523, he found it in ruins, and only 308 families left to form the population. Under his care life became more secure, and from this time the population gradually increased, until it became, as it is now, a very large and thickly populated city.
Now the city has extended its boundaries north and south of the site of the ancient fortress, and where it stood the Royal Palace now stands, and commands the whole city, as its predecessor did of old. It presents a very pleasing aspect, as the streets are very broad and the squares very deep. There are many handsome public buildings and private dwelling-houses. You see here what, in a marked degree, is a special feature of Swedish towns, large areas planted with trees and flowers, for the Stockholmers are very fond of what is beautiful in nature. They are always, when opportunityaffords, adding to their planted spaces. Nearly one half of the area of the whole city is utilized as parks and gardens. The city has a great many flower-shops, and the flower-trade is one of the most thriving of all its trades.
In the summer, with the forest, which extends right up to the city boundary, and the gardens and parks presenting a great wealth of colour, a charming picture meets your eye.
Another feature of Stockholm is her waterways. Wherever you go, you are continually getting a peep of them. Every street seems to lead to a quay. Thus, while trams are numerous, little steamboats are seen in great numbers. They take you quickly from one place to another, and more directly than the tram. In winter, when the whole lake is frozen over, they form a most direct means of communication between the different parts of the city, as well as a large playground for those who indulge in skating.
We have been reading about the rise of the city. Let us have a look at some of the sights.
First of all we must visit the Royal Palace. It is a most imposing building as it stands on a height overlooking a very deep square. It is very large, as anyone can tell from the fact that when the late King had his Jubilee in 1897, all the foreign princes with their retinues were accommodated in it. The King and Queen and the Crown Prince, when in Stockholm, live here.
Every Tuesday forenoon the King gives an audience to any of his subjects who may desire it. If anyone has any grievance to complain of, or any request to make, he can do it in private to the King.
When the King is in the country in the summer months, many of the rooms can be seen by the public. They are, as one would expect, large and beautifully decorated. To most people the Armoury and Royal Robe Chamber are the most interesting, as there you can see so many relics and robes which belonged to famous Kings and Queens of days gone by. Hereare the blood-stained shirt worn by Gustavus Adolphus when he was killed at Lützen, and the uniform and hat worn by Charles XII. when he was shot at Frederikshald.
During the Thirty Years’ War, a great many went from England and Scotland to fight in the army of Gustavus Adolphus. You are reminded of this when you look at the walls of the Riddarhus (House of Nobles), which are covered with the coats of arms of the Swedish nobility. Amongst them can be seen a very large number of English and Scotch names. The nobles used to meet here as a chamber on the affairs of the country. They no longer do so. There is still to be seen the Speaker’s chair presented to Gustavus Vasa in 1527. It is made of ivory, and in it several Bible scenes are inlaid with ebony.
We have seen that Sweden was at one time a great military power in Europe. We notice this if we visit the Riddarholm Church. The interior is adorned with 6,000 flags and trophies taken in war. This is the burial-place of the Kings of Sweden.
Very many years ago, when Stockholm was built chiefly of wood, St. Jacob’s Church was a kind of signal station. There used to be in its tower awatchman, who would sing out the hours of night:
“The hour is ten:God’s mighty handPreserve our townFrom fire and brand:The hour is ten.”
“The hour is ten:God’s mighty handPreserve our townFrom fire and brand:The hour is ten.”
“The hour is ten:
God’s mighty hand
Preserve our town
From fire and brand:
The hour is ten.”
If he saw any sign of fire, instead of his rhyme he sounded a rattle as a warning.
GUSTAVUS VASA’S ENTRY INTO STOCKHOLM, MIDSUMMER, 1532.Carl Larsson.
GUSTAVUS VASA’S ENTRY INTO STOCKHOLM, MIDSUMMER, 1532.
Carl Larsson.
Things are now altering all over the country. Many old customs are passing away. To remind the young Swede of the past, Dr. Hazelius conceived the idea of a museum in which would be preserved old Swedish costumes, furniture, and other things which speak of the past. This has been arranged in a very large building. In connection with it there is a large open-air museum called Skansen. It encloses about 40 acres. It is a Sweden in miniature.
Buildings have been brought from every part of Sweden. You can see peasants, farms, and houses, summer houses of different centuries, and a Lapp encampment, where real Lapps live during the summer. The attendants are dressed in the old national costumes. On several days of the week you can see the graceful national dances and games. There are animals, wild and domestic, from all partsof Scandinavia, and plants and flowers are well represented. It is a most interesting place to visit, and gives a peep into the whole of Sweden.
Let us now visit the streets, and see something of the life of the people. They live chiefly in flats, and the street-door is generally shut. When the bell is rung, the porter, who is within, touches a spring, which opens the door mechanically. There are lifts as well as broad staircases to the different flats. The houses are heated in winter by means of large porcelain stoves, in which wood is burned. The wood is brought to the harbour in boats from the surrounding districts, and some houses have a man whose daily rôle is to go to the boat, buy the wood, cut it into pieces, and feed the stoves. Very often he is a Dalecarlian, and wears his native costume.
There are many open-air markets. Let us visit the fish-market. Here the fish is brought alive in tanks in the boats. We may see the owner of the boat, as we pass along, lift up fish for our inspection. As a rule, fish is sold alive.
The boys of this country are accustomed to see at railway-stations automatic machines for the sale of chocolates and a few other small things. In Sweden you find automatic restaurants. Theyrequire no waiters. There is a large room with tables, and on each wall are labels over different slots, such as “Tea,” “Coffee,” “Milk,” etc. You put your coin in, and, putting your cup or tumbler under a tap, get what you want. There are some restaurants that also supply a hot lunch after the same manner. These are very popular, as they save time and tips.
In the winter there are in the squares of Stockholm huge cisterns containing hot milk, which is sold in the same automatic way.
The Swedes are very fond of music, and in their beautiful Opera-House one can hear the finest concerts for a comparatively low price.
Altogether Stockholm is a most attractive city. The beauty of its situation, combined with the culture and friendliness of its people, are bound to awake our admiration.
Let us now have a peep at the Swede at work, for, although he is very fond of pleasure, he is very hard-working and industrious, and is taking a foremost place among the manufacturers of the world.
Although only about one-tenth of the country is under cultivation, nearly one-half of the people are engaged in the fields. The people are very much devoted to the land. In most cases the farmer owns the farm, and, with the aid of his family, he is able to cultivate all his ground. Farming has changed very much of late years. A great deal of grain used to be grown, but nowadays more attention is being paid to rearing horses and cattle, and dairying.
The farmers are very intelligent and well educated, and employ the latest methods in their work. They have made the export of butter one of their chief industries, and in most districts have erected cooperative dairies. The carts go to the farms, collect the produce, and take it to a central dairy, where the butter is made. This is exported in large quantities,with eggs, to Denmark and Britain. They employ the finest machinery, and have well-constructed dairies. Most of their appliances are made in Sweden. In Stockholm they manufacture a separator which is sent to every part of the world. It was invented by a Swede—Gustaf de Laval—and separates the cream from the milk.
In some parts of Sweden farmers have to be very economical as well as industrious. Sometimes you will see little yellow bundles hanging on trees; these are birch twigs, and when they are thoroughly dried, they are used as fodder for the sheep. In the Far North, the sun is not sufficiently strong to make hay, so they erect poles which look like fences, and as soon as the grass is cut, they hang it on these poles, and allow it to remain until it is cured.
As you sail round the coast and call at the various ports, you see great piles of timber, and ships from many countries loading planks; also huge ponds full of logs, and close at hand sawmills cutting them. You are here reminded that one of Sweden’s greatest industries is the timber trade. You would expect this if you travel through the country, for everywhere you see large forests, especially in the Norrland. More than half of the country is covered with forest. This industry is greatly helped by the many rivers.Men go up in the winter to these forests to cut down the trees, which they haul over the snow, when it is deep upon the ground, to the rivers. They have to make special roads in the woods for this, and in the spring the logs are allowed to float down the river to its mouth, where the sawmills are. Sometimes they take months, sometimes they take years. Very few are lost. At other times the logs are formed into huge rafts, which are kept in the centre of the stream by men with long poles. They usually try to get them done before the end of the summer, or they will need to return the following year, as the rivers are usually frozen every winter. As soon as they arrive at the river’s mouth, they are taken to the sawmills, and cut into planks of various sizes.
What is done with all this timber? A large number of the thin, short logs are sent to Britain to be props in the pits. Perhaps, when you are travelling in the train, the sleepers on which the rails are laid may have come from Sweden. A great deal of the timber is crushed into pulp, and then used for the making of paper. The Swedes make doors and windows for us. They even export wooden houses.
Another great industry is match-making. They do a wonderful thing in this industry. A Swedeinvented a so-called “complete machine,” which reduces the manual labour very much. The match material, which is first cut by other machines, is placed into the “complete machine” at one end, and comes out at the other ready made and packed in boxes, without a workman having to touch them. A machine can turn out 40,000 boxes in eleven hours.
These are but a few of the occupations of the Swedes. Very many are employed at iron and steel works. There are great ore-mines in the North. Swedish steel is considered the best in the world, and is used greatly in Sheffield for the well-known cutlery. Employment is found for great numbers of men in granite quarries, in manufacturing machinery, and in weaving cloth. Glass-works are numerous, and a great deal of very fine cut glass is exported. It would take too long to mention all the industries. Enough has been said to show that Sweden is not a poor but a rich and progressive country. There is work for all. The one drawback is the want of coal, which has all to be imported, but the Swedes are trying to utilize the waterfalls, and make them provide the power to drive machinery. When that is accomplished they will be able to take a place in the front rank of iron and steel-producing countries.
The Swedes are very fond of pleasure, and enter into all kinds of indoor and outdoor games with great spirit. They have many similar to ours, but there are some which our boys and girls might enjoy.
Blind-man’s buff is played in several ways. Here is one. The person who has been blindfolded is placed in the middle of the room with a cane in his hand, while all the company form a ring round him with joined hands. The blind man points towards one in the ring. This one must rise and put his mouth to one end of the cane, while the blind man puts his to the other. They hold a conversation with one another as if speaking through the telephone. The blind man guesses who has been talking to him, and if successful, changes places with his victim.
Sometimes the company sit on chairs in a circle. The blind man walks round and round, and at last sits down in the lap of someone who, if he guesses the name correctly, is blindfolded in turn. If notcorrect, the one on whose lap he is sitting gives him a slap and sends him on, but no words are spoken.
A SUMMER DAY IN NORTH SWEDEN.Carl Johansson.
A SUMMER DAY IN NORTH SWEDEN.
Carl Johansson.
Still another game: it is calledLåna låna eld. All the company except one are again seated in a circle. Then the one standing walks up to one of the company, and rapping on the ground with a cane, says: “Låna, låna, eld” (Lend, lend fire). The other replies: “Gå till nästa grannen” (Go to the next neighbour). He goes on doing this time after time, and always getting the same reply. While he is doing this the company are exchanging chairs with one another by rushing across the room. The questioner has to watch his chance to get into a chair that is vacant. The one deprived of the chair has then to get the cane and go in search of fire.
The Swedes, like all Scandinavians, have a great love of dancing, and very many of their games take the form of a simple dance. On a summer evening you can see the villagers of all ages, men and women, boys and girls, playing at dancing games on the village green to the accompaniment of a fiddle or accordion. A very pretty picture they present if they are, as often happens in Dalecarlia, dressed in their bright native costume. While dancing they generally sing a description of each movement as they perform it. One dance has beenhanded down from time immemorial. It is namedVäfva Vadmal(Weaving Homespun). No doubt it arose from the fact that the Swedish women used to weave the cloth for all their clothes. The players imitate the weaving of cloth at the old handloom. Some represent the bobbins; others the warp and woof. In and out they go until they form a bale. Then they stand still for a time, after which they reverse, unwind themselves, and then disperse. This is a peculiarly Swedish game, and is enjoyed by every rank of Swedish society.
There is another dancing game calledSkära Hafre(Reaping Oats). In this they tell in word and gesture how the farmer sows the seed, cuts the grain, binds it into sheaves, and threshes it.
Another favourite game isEnke-leken(The Widower’s Game). This is played in the open air, as a rule, by children and young people. They stand in pairs, a boy and girl, in a long row, one pair behind the other. There is an odd one who represents the widower. He stands in front with his back to the rest, so that he cannot see them. When he calls, “Enke-leken, enke-leken, sista paret ut” (The widower game, last pair out), this pair separate and run forward in a wide circle. The widower runs forward at the same time with a view to catchingthe girl, but as he is not allowed to look backward, he does not know on which side she may come. Very often the pair change places, and the widower comes in contact with the boy instead of the girl. If he succeed, however, in catching the girl, the other boy takes his place; if not, he has to try again. The pair that has just been out join the ranks at the front.
In all these games there is never seen any roughness, and the players gain a great deal of health and pleasure in a very simple and natural way.
Then there are what one might call the manly sports. The Swedes have ever excelled in these. The old Viking warriors are spoken of in the old legends as being often engaged in feats of strength and skill with the sword and javelin, bow and arrow, in jumping and wrestling, and other favourite sports. They have handed down this trait to the present generation. Nowadays the Swedes practise curling, football, acquired from other countries, and a system of gymnastics invented by a Swede, which is being used by nearly every nation in the world.
The summer sports are very much the same as found in other countries, but it is in winter sports that most interest is taken.
There is the national sport of skating. TheSwedes excel all others in the rapidity and gracefulness of their skating. This is owing to the large number of lakes and rivers, and the severe winters, when the boys and girls have every opportunity of learning to skate. But see! What are these boys going to do? They have a pair of skates and a piece of canvas rolled upon poles. They are skate-sailors. They stretch the canvas on the poles, and putting the cross-bar over the shoulder, have a sail which enables them to go before the wind or tack as they wish, just as the sailor does at sea. They can sometimes go at the rate of forty miles an hour with great ease. They present a most beautiful sight as the white sails flit here and there over the ice, and gleam in the rays of the winter’s sun. Sometimes you see ice-yachts gliding over the frozen water guided by a powerful rudder.
There is also tobogganing. Wherever there is a hill, you see a large number of boys and girls enjoying themselves. Down the slope they come at a rapid rate on a little sledge, which the owner guides with his foot used as a rudder behind. Sometimes, in the public parks, there are specially prepared ice-courses, which require great skill to ride on, or the consequences may be serious.
The most popular and a very useful form of sportis skiing. The skis are two long pieces of thin wood, which are fastened to the boots. By means of these the peasant can travel very quickly from one farm to another, when there is sufficient depth of snow. As a sport it is most exhilarating, but it must be acquired when one is young. Hear those shouts from the woods! Some young men and women have come from the town. They have gone up the slope in a zigzag manner, and along the crest of the hill. Now they are coming down, slowly at first, then faster and faster. See how gracefully they glide with feet placed closely together. They have ever to be on the lookout, for they have often to sweep round a bush, bend under an overhanging branch, or jump a precipice. Those who are able to ski can take many short cuts, as they do not need to keep to the roads, but can often go to their destination as the crow flies. The speed is very great. Very many of the soldiers are trained regularly to go on skis.
A common form of sport is for ski-runners, gliding on their skis, to be drawn along by a horse. They hold on to a rope attached to the traces, and as there is little weight on the horse, a speed of ten miles an hour can be kept up for long distances. Sometimes eight or ten soldiers may be seen moving quicklyalong the road by means of ropes attached to the saddle of a mounted soldier.
The Lapps are the best ski-runners in the world. They are all trained from their very early days to travel by this means. A Lapp, under favourable conditions, can travel 162 miles in twenty-four hours.
No children are more fortunate than the Swedish in education. They have everything done to make their schooldays bright and happy, as well as useful. Their teachers are highly educated, and are very much respected, if they do not get large salaries. The school-house in every town is a very important and conspicuous building.
Unless a child is very well educated at home, he must go to the public school. He does not pay any fees. All education is free, even at the University, but not everyone can go there. Only those who can pass a very stiff examination are allowed to enter. The children go at the age of seven and remain at school until they are fourteen. They get a very thorough training in very much the same subjects as in our schools. There are no holidays on Saturdays for Swedish children. Thirty-six hours every week they must attend. When parents are found to be careless so that their children are suffering, the State sometimes takes the little ones to train and educate.
In the districts where the population is very scattered, a teacher comes for four months in the year, and then proceeds to another district. There is no district where education is not provided.
There are some features that may be of interest to a stranger. In many of the schools there are splendid libraries. No doubt most of the books are printed in Swedish, but there are also a large number in English, French, and German. They are not there for appearance, but are actually read, as the children begin at a very early age to learn these languages. The Swedes are splendid linguists, and are very proud of being able to speak English.
They are known all over the world as being very good gymnasts, and every school has a completely equipped gymnasium. Very often the instructor is a military officer. Their system is being universally adopted, and many readers of this book will have learned the same exercises as the Swedish boys and girls.
One of the most interesting features of school-life is the study of nature. No doubt this is because one of the greatest botanists that ever lived was a Swede—Linnæus. He devised the system of botany, which is in use throughout the whole world. From a very early age the children go out into the woods and collect plants, flowers, and leaves of trees. They are taught not only the names of the different plants, but also the science of botany. The result is that from childhood they are taught to take an intelligent interest in nature, and learn to love what is beautiful in gardens, field, and forest.
A SKI-RUNNERGUNNAR HALLSTRÖM.MARS 1904 Björnö
A SKI-RUNNER
GUNNAR HALLSTRÖM.
MARS 1904 Björnö
The Swedes are also taught to be cleanly. Everywhere can be seen a great many lakes, and in the bright summer days the children bathe and learn to swim in them. In the winter this is impossible, as the cold is very great and the lakes are frozen over. In some schools a large room is set apart as a bathroom. There is no large bath or swimming pond, but a very simple arrangement of a number of tubs in a circle. A child goes into each. They wash and scrub one another. It is a method for securing cleanliness easily carried out, and does not cost much. The result is health. The children never look shabby. A Swedish mother may be poor, but she takes a pride in seeing her children neat and tidy.
Nor does she forget to teach them politeness. Every boy is taught to be very respectful to his elders. On the street he lifts his cap to anyone he knows, whether he be rich or poor.
When the boy is fifteen, he may choose to go toa trade, or to a higher school with a view to entering a learned profession.
At this age, if he intends to become a Government servant, lawyer, doctor, or minister, he must be confirmed. This is a very important step in his life. On the day of confirmation he is examined in the church, and has publicly to answer questions. It is a great day for him. He is now a man, and is very proud of being looked upon as such.
After he has been at the higher school for some years, and wishes to enter the University, he must pass a very hard examination, and when he learns that he has been successful, he is very happy and bright. He comes out of the school wearing the white cap which all students have, and decked with wreaths and flowers bestowed on him by doting parents and admiring friends.
There are large Universities in Sweden both at Upsala and Lund. The former is the larger and older of the two, but they are both well known. The student has the same long and hard course as at school. Very few students finish their course till they are between twenty-five and thirty years of age, and up to this time, if they wish to be successful, must be faithful to their study. There are no very young doctors in Sweden. They generally do notbegin to practise till they are about twenty-eight years of age. Still, they find some time for social life at the University towns. They enter into the gaiety of the place, and are great favourites with the townspeople. The students from each district or nation have a club-room for social gatherings. They are very proud of their own district, and in processions march together with a banner in front. They are very fond of singing. The students of Upsala have a world-wide reputation, as at the Paris Exhibition of 1897 they took the first prize when choirs from every part of the world were competing.
The Swedes as a class are intelligent and polite, and are taking a prominent part in the world’s affairs. We should expect this when we know how well they are educated.
No one touring in Sweden should omit a visit to the province of Dalecarlia. It is a most lovely district, inhabited by a people who stick to their old customs and national dress. They are very proud and manly, and have done a great deal for the freedom of their country.
The chief town is Falun, which is well known because of its copper mine, said to be the oldest in Europe, as it has been worked more than 600 years. It is named the Treasury of Sweden. More than £5,000,000 worth of copper has been extracted. It was here Gustavus Vasa worked when he was in hiding from the Danes, and got his men and money to fight against them. The fumes from the works have spoiled the vegetation in the neighbourhood; but travel in the train a short distance, and you soon get a sight of what the Dalecarlians are very proud of—Lake Siljan, the Eye of Dalecarlia. Down the slopes of the mountain the train proceeds until it reaches Rättvik on the edge of the lake. You seem in a new world, for you see young and old,men, women, and children, going about in costumes similar to what their grandfathers and grandmothers wore. In some parts of Sweden you see people wearing these costumes on Sundays and gala-days, but in Dalecarlia they wear them at church and at market. The men have a long coat which extends below the knee, knee-breeches, white woollen stockings, and shoes. On the head they wear a low-crowned felt hat. From the neck there hangs a long leather apron. The women wear a skirt of a blue colour with a green border. The bodice is of a dark colour, and is only as high as a broad belt, laced together in front with bright red ribbons, the eyelets being of silver. They have also a white blouse. Round the neck is a red kerchief with a bright pattern, fastened at the throat with an old-fashioned silver brooch. The apron is dark, with transverse stripes of blue, red, yellow, and white. The cap is a black, peaked one, with red trimming round it, and red tassels hanging down. It is something in shape like a helmet. In winter they wear a short jacket made of sheepskin. Their clothes-store is a treasure-house.
In days gone by the sound of the shuttle used to be heard in every Dalecarlian home, as the women used to spin and weave all the cloth required forthe clothes of the family. They now buy from the merchant. The Dalecarlians are of a mechanical turn of mind. They make watches and baskets, and the women do hair-work. The natives travel over the country to sell their wares. The Rättvikians excel chiefly as painters, and they cover the walls of their houses with paintings instead of putting up hangings.
The traveller usually proceeds by steamer from Rättvik to Leksand, where on a Sunday a most interesting sight is seen.
Looking across the lake, you see many large boats, driven through the water by means of eight or ten pairs of oars. Each of them may contain forty, sixty, or eighty men, women, and children. They present a very picturesque appearance with their national costumes. They are very similar to the Rättvikians, except that the women wear a tight-fitting cap—that of the married women white, of the unmarried red. The little boys are dressed in yellow-coloured clothes, and the little girls in the same as their older sisters. They soon land and wend their way to church through a beautiful avenue of trees. Here they are joined by others, who have walked or driven in carts for perhaps ten miles. They are regular church-goers. The church is notonly a religious, but also a social centre. Sunday is newspaper day. The gossip of the whole district is then retailed. The men meet in crowds in the avenue, and the women and children wander in the churchyard until the service begins. It is like fairyland to see the bright costumes moving among the luxuriant foliage on a Swedish summer day.
The church at Leksand is an imposing structure, in the shape of a Greek cross, with a Russian ball-spire. It was built by some Swedes who had been prisoners in Russia, and it holds about 5,000 people. The sight is most impressive when it is crowded, men and women sitting apart. The sermons must at one time have been longer or the people not so devout, as in some country churches can be seen a relic of bygone days in a long stick, with which an official, “the church awakener,” used to poke anyone who fell asleep. When the service is over, the horses are yoked, the boats pushed into the water, and the vast crowd is soon scattered.
There is, however, one place of interest that must not be passed over—Mora, a quiet little spot on the northern shore of Lake Siljan. It was here that the standard of revolt against the Danes was raised by the men of Mora under Gustavus Vasa. Near the church is the mound where he made hisfamous speech that roused them to action. Dear to the heart of the Swede is the national memorial at Mora. It is situated about a mile from the village, and is a little square building lit from the roof. In the middle of the stone floor is the cellar in which Gustavus Vasa hid when the Danes were pursuing him. The walls are covered with paintings of scenes in the life of the patriot, and one of them represents what took place here. You see the open trap-door, Gustavus Vasa descending into the cellar with an axe in his hand, the woman lifting a tub to cover the trap, and through the window you can see the Danes in the distance on horseback.
No one need be at a loss as to the meaning of any of the pictures. The custodian has a description written in English, French, and German. He usually succeeds in finding out the nationality of the visitor, and gives him the proper copy.
It is with reluctance one leaves Dalecarlia, with its proud and independent people, and its bright and smiling valleys.
“BRASKULLA”(A PEASANT GIRL FROM MORA).Anders Zorn.
“BRASKULLA”(A PEASANT GIRL FROM MORA).
Anders Zorn.
The Swedes are a most hospitable and kindly people, and enjoy entertaining. They do not mask their feelings, for as soon as a visitor arrives, he is made to feel at home with the words, “Välkommen till oss” (Welcome to us).
If it should be about the hour for dinner, he will be invited to partake with the family. If he be a foreigner, a surprise awaits him, for, on entering the dining-room, instead of sitting down at once to dinner, he is led up to a side-table. On this he sees bread, butter, and cheese, and numerous small dishes with anchovies, smoked salmon, caviare, and different kinds of meats, hot and cold, too numerous to mention. This is calledsmörgosbord. He is expected to take a piece of bread and butter and whatever of the other dishes he may feel inclined for. This is considered an appetizer for the proper meal, which no stranger must forget.
Then the company assembles round the dinnertable behind the chairs, and a very nice custom is observed. One of the children, perhaps one whocan only lisp a prayer, asks God’s blessing on the food, at which the gentlemen bow, and the ladies curtsey. After dinner there is another beautiful custom, when the children go up to the parents, kiss their hands, and say: “Tack för maten” (Thanks for food). If the guest is present, he shakes hands with the host and hostess, at the same time expressing his thanks for the meal.
Weddings in every country are always looked upon with interest, but a Swedish country wedding is one especially interesting and picturesque. It is an event which demands the attention of the district for several days. A large number of people are invited. This means considerable expense, but the heads of the several families invited make a contribution of provisions.
If the wedding be in the church, the bride, with a silver crown on her head and pearls round her neck, goes there on horseback. She is escorted during the festivities by a number of musicians and young men also mounted. The hats of the men are decorated with ribbons of bright colours and with flowers. Some of them carry guns, which they frequently fire, and this is supposed to be a reminiscence of those days when a bride had to be protected from the attack of a hostile clan. The rest of thecompany follow in carriages or on foot. At the church there is a triumphal arch through which all pass. After the ceremony is over, the procession returns to the bride’s home for the rejoicings. Here again is a triumphal arch of green boughs. The young men ride three times furiously round a maypole, while whips are cracked and guns are fired.
Then comes a banquet, which usually lasts for three or four hours, after which there come games and dancing, not for a few hours, but often for three days and three nights, during which the festivities continue without a break. Among the more wealthy they may last five or six days. If the provisions are exhausted, the hostess introduces a highly spiced rice-pudding. This information is understood, and soon, after great cheering, the company separates. The feasting is not yet over, as the young couple are expected to entertain all who have been present.
A pretty custom observed in some districts is “dancing the crown off the head of the bride.” The bride is blindfolded. The maidens present form a ring and dance round her, until she takes the crown off her head and places it haphazard on the head of one of the girls. She on whom this honour has been conferred will be the next to weara crown at her own wedding. The girl places it on the head of another, and so on, till it has rested on the head of everyone.
If you enter a Swedish peasant’s home, you will see one or more long poles attached to the roof. On these are strung a number of very thin round discs. This is the rye bread, which is the only kind eaten by the peasant, and is also found at the King’s table. The peasantry do not eat much new bread. They only bake four times a year, and each baking lasts for three months.
A very common dish in a Swedish peasant’s house is solid sour milk. It is placed on the table in a wooden dish. After the housewife has added some sugar, all sit round the table with wooden spoons, and each marks out for himself what he considers his rightful share. After this they all set to work, and do not move until the whole is eaten.
The Swedes are very fond of open-air life. They practically spend the summer out of doors. Where you find a band, there is usually a large crowd of men, women, and children, sitting at little tables drinking their punch, beer, and coffee. The Swedes are very fond of family life. The father, mother, and children usually go out together. On Sunday afternoons and feast-days every town is ascene of gaiety. All the inhabitants give themselves up to pleasure. There is no rowdyism, but a great deal of enjoyment. The innate refinement of the Swede checks any inclination there might be for anything rough or uncouth. He shows this when he goes into a shop. Very many of those behind the counters are young women. The Swede takes off his hat to them, and wishes them “Good-morning” as pleasantly as he would to his greatest lady-friends.
One thing a Swede is never without, and that is his coffee. You may not always get good tea, but you will always get good coffee. The peasants will drink it as often as five times a day. They are also fond of sugar. They have a strange custom of putting a piece of sugar between the teeth, and sweetening the coffee as it passes through the sugar into their mouths. They call thisdricka på bit. They seem to think they get more enjoyment from the sugar in this way than if it were dissolved in the coffee.
There is one other custom that people in England would like to know about. It is the festival of Santa Lucia. There are several stories as to its origin. Some say that it refers to the shortest day, though it falls on December 13. Lucia night, according to the peasants, is so long that the oxfrom hunger bites the crib. “Lucia night is mortal long,” said the cow. “It’s as good as two,” replied the ram. “That’s true,” put in the goat; “it’s a pity it exists.” Some speak of a beautiful virgin named Lucia, who was about to be married. She had given all her dowry to the Christians because of their courage. When her lover heard of this, he informed against her. She was condemned in the end to death by burning. When the fire was placed around her, she remained unhurt, and did not die until a sword was thrust into her throat.
The day is observed in a very quaint fashion. At a very early hour in the morning, perhaps as early as three or four, the sleeper is awakened, to find a maiden dressed in white standing by the bedside. Her hair is streaming down her back. On her head, which is encircled with a wreath of green leaves, are a number of lighted tapers. In her hands are a salver with coffee and cakes, which must be partaken of in bed. After this, in some houses, all get out of bed and sit down to a big feast. Afterwards they shoot a fish by the aid of a torch composed of slips of dry and resinous wood.
“In the days of old,” says the saga, “a fair and beautiful island, low and dim, floated on the sea by night, and the people beheld it as they sailed to and fro; but each morning at sunrise it disappeared beneath the waves, until the waning twilight had come again, when it would rise and float over the surface of the Östersjön (Baltic) as before.”
No one dared to land upon it, though the belief was general that it would become fixed if a fire was lighted there.
Thjelvar, with his men, finally landed in a little bay of the floating island, and lighted a fire, and the island became stationary. The name of this daring man, Thjelvar, means “the Industrious.”
Those with him seemed to be possessed with the same spirit, for in a short time they were building ships and trading with every part of Europe. They soon became wealthy, not only by fair means but also by foul, as they did not hesitate to plunder whenever they had an opportunity. Their forays led to reprisals. Their wealth excited envy. They did not feelstrong enough of themselves, and, as Sweden was the nearest country, they proposed to put themselves under her protection, and sent an ambassador to negotiate. When he arrived at Upsala, then the capital of Sweden, the King and Queen were sitting at meat. He was not received at once, nor even asked to sit down. After he had been standing some time at the entrance, the King said: “What news from Gothland?” “Nothing,” replied the ambassador, “except that a mare on the island has foaled three colts at a birth.” “Ah,” said the King, “what does the third colt do when the other two are sucking?” “He does as I do,” replied the ambassador, “He stands and looks on.” Thereupon the King laughed loudly, and invited the ambassador to share the meal. In the end a treaty was arranged, and Gothland became a part of Sweden.
This was in 890. In 1030 Olaf compelled the inhabitants of the island to become Christian, and be baptized, but by this time a city had sprung up where the heathens of old used to offer up sacrifices. This city was named Visby, “the city of the place of sacrifice.” It is situated on the west side of the island, and gradually rose in importance, until it became the chief trading centre of Europe. There was a great trade with Russia, and by means of the rivers of that country the treasures of the East were brought to Visby. The fame and the stories of her wealth and commerce spread far and wide. Soon merchants came from all parts of Europe to share her wealth. Very many of them removed their business entirely to Visby.