Chapter 8

28The Arabs who dwell along that coast live upon their fish. They are exceedingly poor, but of much milder manners than the inhabitants of the interior parts, by whom they are greatly despised.

29The jewels which I had given Sidy Mahammet had made so much noise through all the country, that the travelling Arabs who passed through our districts asked frequently at my companions in misfortune, when they met me—Es Brisson?

After having heard the baker's history, I answered his inquiries to this purpose, that we were to set out to Morocco, but that we had a very long journey to make. "We have much to suffer," added I, "as we must follow the track of the camels; I know not, besides, on what we are to subsist, for we have no she-camels, and of consequence can have no milk. I am persuaded we will be obliged to beg our way from village to village, which will greatly retard our journey."

The next day the inhabitants of the tribe of Trarge assembled around Sidy Sellem, and made a long prayer; after which they brought both to him and us a kettle full of broth, prepared with meal of a wild grain, of which I believe I had formerly heard them speak. They added to this mess a large portion of milk, and their best wishes for a good journey to us.

Sidy Mahammet bade me a very affecting adieu. "Adieu, Brisson," said he to me, "you are about to undertake a very long and troublesome journey. You may easily conceive what reasons I have to fear the exposing myself to it. I wish you may have a safe journey, and that your sea-voyage may be more fortunate than the last; adieu, forget not to send a piece of scarlet cloth to my wife. You will give it in charge to Sidy Sellem. Adieu, my friend Brisson." The tears which accompanied these last words would certainly have imposed upon me, if I had not known how capable he was to deceive. However, the pleasure I felt in getting away from him, enabled me to express some gratitude. I engaged to send what he wanted forhis wife. He assisted me in mounting a stout camel which was appointed for me and the baker, but we were obliged to leave it a few days after; we were not the only persons who did so. These animals not finding pasturage, were not in a condition to continue the journey; besides, the camels in this country are not able to endure so much fatigue. On the other hand, we were not able to keep our seats very long, as they had no saddles. We were therefore obliged to walk on foot the rest of our journey. Judge what I suffered, when the sand penetrated into the wounds of my feet, and when the thistles opened these wounds again afresh. I frequently fell down without expecting I would be able to rise again. At the same time I had frequently to turn, sometimes to the right, and sometimes to the left, to reassemble the camels which fell behind; and we were often obliged to make counter marches to avoid these hordes of Arabs, whom we had reason to fear might pursue us.

One day,—Alas! the recollection of that unhappy day will long be imprinted on my memory!—we descended into a valley which was covered with verdure by the rains which had lately fallen. My master therefore made a halt here, in order that the famished camels might get a little nourishment. He ascended to an eminence, upon a high mountain which surrounded part of the valley. He sat down a little there, while his own beast and the other camels should feed, as he meant to carry them to the city and sell them. I passed on before him to reach the summit of the mountain, supposing that to be the road which we were to follow. What confirmed me in my opinion was,that the old man permitted me to continue my journey, and I also observed the path which I took was a beaten one. At length, having reached the top, I went to a little distance from the road, to shake my long beard, which was constantly filled with vermin, notwithstanding all my care. Having lain near an hour quiet behind a bush, without seeing any of the travellers appear, I returned again to the edge of the hill. My God, what was my astonishment when I could see no person! Where are they? Which way have they gone? What road shall I take? As the hordes which encamped in this neighbourhood came thither to feed their flocks, a great number of different roads met here. I could not think of any other way, than to cry aloud different times on Sidy Sellem. At length I observed at a distance four or five Arabs, who were coming up towards me. I ran to meet them, supposing them to belong to our company. I soon discovered my mistake; a great dog, and one of the stoutest of the barbarians, made up to me at the same time. The Arab aimed a blow at me with the back of the blade of his sabre, which struck me on the head. The others coming up, drew me among the rocks, where they had an asylum, and there prepared to place me in a frightful situation.

See then the hope of recovering my liberty entirely lost! My slavery promised to be harder now than ever. I was absorbed in these reflections, when the assassins conducted me to a declivity, which led to a place, where they expected to hide me from the sight of their companions. Suddenly I observed our flocks, and our little caravan, to the number of twenty persons, in a valley whichsurrounded the mountains. I luckily escaped out of the hands of my plunderers, and found as much strength, as enabled me to reach to my old man. The vagabonds affrighted, took to their heels.

My master reprimanded me severely, and charged me never to separate from him again. I complained on my part, that he had not stopped me, when he observed that the road which I pursued, was not that which he himself was to take, and by his silence, I supposed I was right; in a word, that he had gone off without calling me back, and that he had not sent any person in search of me. He gave me for answer, that he had not stopped me in the road I had taken, because he intended to follow me immediately; but he had been under the necessity of going after the camels, who had strayed through the valley, eating the green herbs, of which they had been long deprived. "I was preparing to overtake you," said he, "at the very moment, when the sound of your voice reached me, and apprised me both of your danger, and of that to which I would have been exposed in following you. But I durst not risk my camels, nor hazard my own life, to preserve yours; we have, besides, no time to lose; let us escape as quickly as possible, from a place, in which I am in as great danger as yourself." In consequence, we doubled our pace, for the following six hours, and made a cross-march, in order to deceive those who might be disposed to follow us. We eat no food the next and following day, until the evening. I had taken nothing for my support for two days, but a few handfuls of wild succory, which I had gathered in the fatal valley.

The day following, we were in an open country.We had passed over the hills, and travelled through plains, filled with calcined flint-stones, which resembled smith's charcoal. Above these stones, arose at a little distance, a whitish earth, upon which we saw great trunks of trees, heaped upon one another, the roots of which were torn off. The bark was entirely stripped off, and the branches, brittle as glass, were twisted like cords. The wood was of a yellowish colour, like the wood of liquorice, and besides, the inside of these trees was filled with a powder, very hard to the touch. All this announced to me a very extraordinary revolution. I was anxious to learn, if these trunks had any taste of sulphur; but neither the wood, the dust enclosed in the heart of the trees, nor the calcined stones, had either taste or smell.

At some distance, we found the mountains of a prodigious height, appearing as if they were piled one above another. The rocks, which were detached, had formed, by their crumbling down, as it were precipices. Others, suspended in the air, threatened to crush in pieces the traveller below. Others, again, in their striking one upon another, by receiving in their shock, slimy earth, which hurled down continually, formed frightful caverns. The surrounding valleys were filled with rocks, which appeared to rise one above another, and produced new masses, not less frightful. To conclude, it appeared like a long range of mountains, from which pieces of a great size were frequently falling, which were reduced to dust, before they reached the ground.

From another side issued two fountains, one of which drew along with it, in its course, a black slimy stuff, which occasioned a sulphurous smell.The other, separated from the first, by a small isthmus of sand, from twelve to fifteen paces broad, is clearer than crystal. The taste of these waters is pretty agreeable; the bottom of their bed is filled with small stones of various colours, which presented to the eye a delightful prospect.

It was in the same place I observed a singularity, which I submit to the understanding of my readers. In a valley, which appeared at first sight, to be very much circumscribed by the number of surrounding mountains, across threatening vaults, formed by the falling of different rocks, heaped upon one another, I discovered an immense region, which astonished me by the variety which it presented to our view. At the first entrance of this valley, the ground is moist and furrowed, as if rivulets had formerly winded through it. The borders of these furrows were covered with many beds, and thickly spread over with a nitrous kind of ice. The rocks, which served to enclose them, were covered with the same, and had a near resemblance to cascades. The thick reddish roots, and the branches, covered with leaves, like those of the laurel tree, crept across the different crevices. At a greater distance, on advancing towards the west, we saw pyramids of great stones, as white as alabaster, towering one above another, which seemed to indicate the border of a bank, and above which very high date-trees grew up, of which the trunks were warped round even to the top. The palm trees, extended upon a mass of stones, by their length and colour, gave proof of their antiquity. Others, lying across here and there, and wholly stripped of their bark, afforded a very dismal spectacle.

I split one of the palm-trees with my nails, and put a piece of it in my mouth; it had a taste, at once bitter and salt, but no smell. Those which were overturned, fell in pieces immediately upon my touching them; and the filaments which remained under the bark, were covered over with a saltish powder, as clear as crystal. The roots which hung far down from the rocks were glutinous, and the bark broke off with the least touch. I plucked up several branches of wild laurel, from which I immediately distilled some white drops, one of which, having fallen upon my hand, occasioned a very smart pain, and a black spot, which took off the skin. I durst not venture to taste it. In a word, the stones, the nitrous beds, the overturned date-trees and others, enveloped to the very top the immense plain covered with an extremely fine salt, the ground cut and furrowed, which appeared to have been turned up by the torrents, those rent mountains, if I may use the expression, all seemed to indicate, that at some former period, the scum of the sea had been carried into these places. I asked at Sidy Sellem, if we were far from the sea, and if ever it had passed that way? He told me, that we were perhaps the first of the human race who had landed there; that he was looking for the sea, which ought to be before us, in order to discover the places where, he had been told, some Arab camps were to be found, among whom he had friends who had accompanied him in a journey to Mecca.

"Keep yourself easy," added he, "the sun is my guide, he will conduct me where I wish to go. You may therefore follow, without fear, the footsteps of the camels." Indeed, I thought that Iwalked with considerable ease; but it was not long, when I began to feel excessive pain, as my feet, severely torn, were filled with a kind of saltish dust. How greatly was I astonished, when, after two days' travelling, I found we were on the brink of the sea, and perceived below me the rolling waves foaming upon a frightful precipice! Towards the east, where I then was, its course was limited by immense rocks. On considering this elevation, I could not persuade myself, that ever this element had carried its waves to such a height. The rocks, said I to myself, would then serve for a bed to it. I lost myself in my conjectures;—besides, I set out at first to report facts, and it is not my province to make learned dissertations.

After some days journey farther, gradually advancing towards Morocco, we found other mountains no less elevated than the first, covered with stones of rose, violet, citron and green colours, and I observed extensive forests at a distance. I had not seen any before all the thirteen months I had been in the deserts. I was astonished to see the trunks of trees coming out of the centre of rocks, and to appearance hanging down like fruits. I saw with surprise also the roebucks running after one another, upon these same trees, leaping on the hanging rocks with incredible velocity, when they perceived any one following them. The moment one of them took to flight, the rest immediately followed. I observed, among many other trees, that of which the leaf resembled the gum-tree, or our parsley, to be the only one of the different kinds which I had seen, in all these countries, that had suffered from lightning. The thunder had no influence upon the rest.

We travelled through the forests for three days. We had spent already four nights, and, during that time, had not heard any thing of the fierce animals, with which the deserts of Africa are overspread. They must certainly inhabit the country which lies far to the eastward; but how do they procure water?

The more we advanced, the more my distress abated. We frequently found fields of barley ready to be reaped. I sat down and ate, with a degree of pleasure which I cannot express. The water now also became more abundant. On every side, we frequently fell in with villages, where we were well received. In others, where we would not have been so safe, Sidy Sellem was much respected, as he had formerly made a journey to Mecca. However, the Arabs of the tribe of Telkoennes exceeded all in their attention to us.

After having paid Sidy Sellem all the customary honours due to a stranger, they caused to be set before him, at the usual hour, barley, meal, and milk. He gave me the remainder of his supper, which I went to eat apart with my new comrade the baker; for, especially on a journey, a Christian ought neither to eat nor drink, and far less to sleep, beside his master. My repast being ended, I dug a hole in the sand, in order to screen myself from the cold. To prevent the sand from entering into my eyes, I covered my head with a piece of packing-cloth, which I wore about my middle. But I had scarcely closed my eyes, when I heard the report of two gunshots, which appeared to have been fired hard by me, and immediately I was seized by the body. I very readily threw off me the covering of sand which I hadmade myself, and which was warm. One of those who held me, asked me if I was wounded. I supposed that the fire, which had taken hold of my linen, had come from the wadding of the gun. "No," replied I, "but on what account do you treat me in this manner?"—"Sir,"30answered he, "follow us." My master, who had been awakened by the report of the gun, ran towards the place where he had heard my voice. He complained of their abusing in such a manner one of his slaves, and that they had violated the laws of hospitality towards such a man as he was. The Arab of the mountains, in reply, told him, with an imperious tone, that during the night he watched his flock, not knowing that I belonged to his retinue; and having seen a man conceal himself in the sand, he had supposed him to be one of those robbers, who, during the night, come to carry off their young goats. Sidy Sellem pretended to believe him, commended his zeal, and took me out of his hands. As soon as he imagined that the village was all quiet, he left a place where he was as much afraid of his own safety as mine.

30The language which they speak in the Desert, differs from that spoken in the capital. Sidy Sellem, who was considered as a scholar among them, was obliged to repeat several times, before he could make himself understood by Effendy, who interrogated him in the presence of the Emperor.

The Arabs of the tribe of Telkoennes are the worst situated of any that I have seen in all the Desert. They live in the midst of mountains of sand, raised by the winds. One would think they endeavoured to hide themselves from the light ofday, so difficult is it to penetrate into their retreats, or to find the way out of them. The plains in their neighbourhood abound with prodigious serpents. Three times I had occasion to see them frighten our camels; and the animals, when affrighted, fled, and obliged the baker and myself to take long races in order to assemble them again.

At last we approached to the famous city of Guadnum, of which I had heard so much talking for a long time past. It was across a cave of rocks, that I saw at a distance a city built upon an eminence, the environs of which announced formidable fortifications. When we drew near it, a little after, I could see no more than earthen bulwarks, almost all broken down. We observed some of the inhabitants, who appeared at small windows opposite to us. They seemed to be meditating some wicked action. The chief of the village, having learned that Sidy Sellem was the leader of this small caravan, came to meet him, attended by four negro slaves. They carried on their heads a basket of dates, which their master had presented as a mark of respect to him. "Is this Guadnum which I see?" I asked at Sidy Sellem. "No," replied he, "it is Fort Labat. The city is very near; you may observe it." Indeed, we arrived there two hours after.

This city, so much longed for, is the refuge of all the most resolute rebels of the different tribes. It is divided into two parts. The lower part is commanded by Sidy Adalla, There was a governor for the higher part, which is situated upon a little hill, and which very much resembles Fort Labat. Almost all the houses are built in the same manner. Four great walls occupy an immense space of ground. All those of the same part, build a house which will only admit light by the door and the top, which remains uncovered. The four walls which surround the house are very high. There is only one gate in all their circumference. This is guarded by large dogs. Every particular person has his own dog to protect himself; and without this precaution, although enclosed within walls, would have no security against the depredations of any neighbour more daring, or more skillful than himself.

I could not reconcile this general mistrust with the considerable trade which was carried on in this city. I saw two markets in it, which certainly were not inferior in any respect to the largest fairs in the provinces of France. Though specie of different kinds circulates here, I am inclined to think that their trade is principally carried on by barter. Fine wool may be found here in great abundance, and, above all, woollen stuffs, half white and half crimson, which are used by the inhabitants for their dresses. The merchants who purchase them, in order to sell them in the interior parts of the country, give camels in exchange.

Their ordinary profit is four hundred per cent.; and on these articles they gain much less than on wheat, barley, dates, horses, sheep, goats, oxen, she-asses, tobacco, gunpowder, combs, small mirrors, and other toys, which are not carried to a great distance. They are consumed in certain small towns of the country, in each of which a market is held on fixed days. What is very surprising is, that the Jews are almost the only people who carry on this trade. They are, however, exposed to the most humiliating insults. An Arabsnatches the bread from31the hand of an Israelite, enters his house, makes him give him a handful of tobacco, often beats him, and always behaves to him with insolence; and yet the poor Jew must suffer with patience. It is true, that he indemnifies himself after his own manner; that is to say, by the address with which he disposes of his merchandise to advantage, and by the cunning by which he overreaches an Arab. The latter, in general, are exceedingly stupid.

31It was at Guadnum that I first saw bread again. Whether brick or stones be scarce, or they have not learned the method of laying their ovens with these materials, I cannot say; but their custom is, to make little flint-stones, red hot, and on them bake their dough. The bread is pretty good. That which the emperor caused to be provided for the consul, appeared to be baked in a different manner, though I cannot say how. I found it more agreeable to the taste.

I met with a Moor in this city, who happened to have been at the sea-shore the very time of our shipwreck. I owe him an acknowledgment, for he treated me well. His sister-in-law, Paphye, appeared to take a very lively concern in my situation. During eight days I spent in Guadnum, she employed me in grinding some corn. She entertained me well, and, I may say, showed me numberless instances of care and attention. She wished much that I would stay with her. But nothing can equal the generous assistance I received from Aaron the Jew, and his wives, notwithstanding the ingratitude which they have often experienced from many Christian slaves.

I left Guadnum, after having rested there eight days. On the road to Mogador, I found nothing but villages or castles, situated, for the most part,on very high mountains. At a distance, one would suppose them superb edifices, but, on coming nearer, we found them much the same with the others. We were very well entertained. The nearer we approached the city, however, we found the less hospitality. There is reason to believe the inhabitants are afraid of the affluence of foreign travellers.

We were sixty-six days on this march; my strength was exhausted, my limbs swelled, and my feet almost in a state of suppuration.32I had infallibly sunk under it, if my master, to encourage me, had not constantly said to me, "Keep up your heart, there is the sea, behold the ships; take courage, we will be soon there." Hope supported me; and, in a moment, when I had not the least expectation of it, at length I perceived that element of which I had so much cause to complain, and which was still to be the arbiter of my fate. Sidy Sellem, without doubt, wished to enjoy my surprise. On coming out of a labyrinth of broom, we arrived at the top of some hillocks of sand.—Oh! you who read this history, which is too true, you never can form an idea of the joy which I felt at that moment, when I again saw the flag of France, and that of other nations, flying at the stern of the different ships, at anchor in the road of Mogador, which I still knew by no other name than that of Soira. "Very well! Brisson," said my master to me; "Very well!—Speak, wont you?—Are you satisfied?—Do you see these vessels?—Do you want those of France?—I promised to conduct you to the Consul, you see I have kept my word: but what? you give me no answer!"—Alas! what could I answer? my tears could not find vent; I could not articulate a syllable. I looked at the sea, the flags, the ships, the city, and I thought that all was a dream. The unhappy baker, not less exhausted, and equally astonished with myself, mingled his sobs with mine. My tears trickled down upon the hands of the generous old man, who had made me so happy with an agreeable surprise.

32A thorn of a gum bush had run into my foot, which I could not get extracted, till it was entirely putrified.

At length we arrived in the city, but still I was not without my fears. I trembled lest I should be retained as a slave. I had access to know, before I left France, that the emperor had abused M. Chenier, and that he had made his complaint at court. I had not learned if France had paid any attention to it, or if a new consul had been appointed; but in every case I had cause to fear. I was not long, however, in being set at ease. On entering the city, I met two Europeans, "Who and what are you," said I to them, "you see my misery, condescend to assist me. Comfort me, support me. Where am I? From what country are you? What month is this? and what day of it?" I was addressing natives of Bourdeaux, who, after having considered, went to inform Messrs Duprat and Cabannes, who had made it their business to relieve any unhappy persons, whom unlucky accident had thrown upon their coast. They came to meet me; and, without being ashamed at my shocking appearance, they took me in their arms, and bathed me with the tears, which the joy of relieving an unfortunate man made them shed. "Your misfortunes are atan end, Sir," said they to me; "come with us; we will do our best to make you forget your troubles." They carried me immediately away with them, after having desired my master to follow us, and to make himself easy, as to any arrangements which I had it now in my power to make with him. I entreated these gentlemen to permit me to take along with me, not only Sidy Sellem, but also his son. Their house became as my own. Care, attention, friendship—all were heaped upon me without affectation. They dressed me from head to foot in their own clothes, till such time as I could get some made to answer my shape. I was visited soon after by all the Europeans who were at Mogador; they congratulated me upon the change in my condition, and particularly that I had arrived at so favourable a juncture, as that of the entry of a new consul, who had brought with him from France very considerable presents to the Emperor.

I was presented the same day to the governor of the place, who signified to us an order to go to Morocco. The king had given a declaration to that effect. He wished to see all the slaves with his own eyes, and that they should hear from his own mouth, the proclamation of their liberty.

We therefore set out in about eight days after, with a guard, which accompanied the treasure, my master, myself and the baker, as Sidy Mahammet had sent him by his brother, reserving to himself the ransom which he might receive for him. We were supplied with mules, a tent, victuals, and men to serve us. We arrived after four days journey.

The first thing I observed, was the steeple of one of the mosques, which appeared to be at agreat distance. I expected to see the dwelling of ancient emperors, and other remains of antiquity, but I could observe nothing except the residence of the king of Fez and Mequinez. The walls which surround the palace are of earth, and the two corners are wholly in ruins. One would have supposed them to be the enclosure of a churchyard. The houses in the neighbourhood of the park are low, and built in the same manner as those of Guadnum, but dirtier, and not so well aired.

The guard who attended my person, presented me to the consul and vice-consul. They offered me board and lodging, till I should set out for France. A second guard very soon came to acquaint me, that, the emperor informed of my arrival, had ordered me to appear immediately before him. I therefore followed this messenger, who conducted me through vast courts, where I saw nothing but very high walls of sand, and a scorching sun, which darted right on our heads the whole day. I at length reached the palace, where his majesty's guards are assembled. Those who attend his majesty's person, are armed with a gun. Their dress consists of one coat of any colour, and a cloak, similar to those of the capuchin friars. They have on their head a small red cap, with a blue tassel at top. Their naked feet only half enter their slippers, which they are obliged to drag after them. They carry the case of their gun in the form of St Andrew's Cross, and have a girdle around their body, by which hangs a cartouch box. Those who do not belong to this corps, have only a white staff for all their armour.

The horsemen are dressed in the same manner. They wear half-boots on their feet, and great spursof nine or ten inches long, which resemble so many spikes of iron. Their horses have always their sides opened to the quick; the riders jag them continually, and appear to have pleasure in it. This is a faithful portrait of the troops of his majesty the King of Morocco.

While I waited for an audience, I saw a captain review his troops. He sat down on the ground, his chin leaning on his two hands, and his arms placed on his knees, and turned up towards his chin. He made the soldiers advance two by two, and gave them the word of command. These, having prostrated themselves before him, retired behind, and went about their affairs.

Five or six of those who were armed with clubs, seized me by the collar, as if I had been a criminal. They caused open two great folding gates, like those of our granaries, and pushed me roughly into the park.

In vain I looked around me in search of some ensign of royalty. At length, having passed a kind ofbruette,3315 or 20 paces, they made me turn about my face, and I was ordered while they pushed me roughly forward, to prostrate myself before thisbruette, in which the king sat, amusing himself in stroking the toes of his foot, which he held on his knee. He looked at me for some time, and then inquired if I was one of these Christian slaves, whose vessel had been wrecked upon his coasts about a year ago, and what was my business at Senegal, &c. "Your loss was owing toyour own misconduct," said he to me; "why did you not keep yourself at large? Are you rich," continued he; "Are you married?" I had scarcely answered his questions, when he ordered paper and ink to be brought him, then, with a small reed, which served him for a pen, he traced the four principal winds, and made me observe, that Paris lay to the northward. He then ciphered about twelve figures in French. "Do you know these?" asked he; and put several similar questions to me, to show me that he was a scholar.

33A very mean sort of carriage, drawn by two horses, very often to be seen in the streets of Paris.

"Tell me," continued the Prince, "did the Mountaineers34use you well or ill? have they taken many of your effects?" I hastened to answer all his questions, and informed him, that the nearer I approached to the capital, the more civil usage I met with. "I have not the sovereignty," replied he, "of all the countries through which you have passed; or, to express myself more properly, my orders cannot be put so effectually into execution at such a distance. With whom are you come?—With Sidy Sellem ofLa Roussye. I know him, bring him hither." Immediately after, my master was introduced in the same manner I had been.

34The inhabitants of the towns call those of the deserts mountaineers.

The emperor asked him, if he had bought me very dear, and what were his intentions. Sidy Sellem answered him very archly, by informing him, that he had no other intention in traversing these immense regions, but to come and prostrate himself at the feet of his sovereign, and presenthim with the homage of his slave.35"Do you know," continued the Prince, "if any other of these people are to be found among the Ouadelims and Labdesseba, as it was by these tribes they were all seized?" My patron answered him very humbly. "Yes, Sir, and they may be very easily collected together, if you issue orders to that effect." The emperor did not push this conversation farther; he commanded one of his guards to attend me and the baker, upon a fresh order; and that we should eat in the royal kitchen. This man expressed no little surprise, that the Sultan should have condescended to converse so long with a slave.

35It is certain, that if Sidy Sellem had not wished to pay his homage to the emperor, (it was fifty years since he had been at Morocco), and had he not been called to the city by his own particular business, I would never have seen my native country; I was too far into the interior parts of the country ever to have escaped otherwise.

The next day, the consul called me back before the guard, saying, that when the king inquired after me, the guard should come and seek me in his house. I had then appointed for my dwelling, a cave, which had formerly been the residence of the Spanish ambassador. The emperor, willing to pay the same attention to the envoy of France, gave him the same lodging.

This palace, which was the best the emperor had in his disposal, was nothing else than a long cave dug in the earth, the vault of which was supported by two ranges of pillars. The descent was by a small stair, and there was no air but what was procured by small windows, placed on the head of the vault. The emperor keeps here histents and war equipage. In fine, naked walls, spiders webs, bats and rats, were all that we could see in this dwelling. This building stands in one of the finest situations in his majesty's gardens, which are adorned with olive and quince trees, pomegranates and apples. The four high walls which surround them, gives one the idea of a state prison. It was in this place that the emperor lodged the ambassadors, or representatives of powerful foreign nations, and did not provide them with a single piece of furniture. He contented himself with ordering them a certain quantity of beef, mutton, poultry, bread and water.

His majesty's own palace consisted of six large courts, surrounded by walls. The outside of the seraglio resembled a granary. The mosque is built in the same manner. I know not if the inside is any thing more agreeable, but there is nothing in its exterior to please the eye. The city is separated from the palace by masses of clay. The filth and bones of beasts which have been killed, heaped upon one another, serve, to use the expression, as a girdle to the capital. These pyramids of nastiness are ever to be found within the city. They prevail even on the tops of the houses, and keep out the very light of day. The sun, which beats upon these hills of filth, exhales the putrefaction from them. The houses, ill built, resemble hogsties, and are very ill aired. The streets are narrow, and partly covered with beds of straw.

One day that the New England ambassador, who had taken lodgings in the city, the consul and myself, were taking an airing on horseback, we were obliged to alight. The people, under badgovernment, or rather without any, run before us, and interrupted us in our journey, as we had no guards to escort us. Without this precaution, a person runs the risk of being cut in pieces. In spite of all the care I could take, I got a stroke on the head with a stone. But I neither could discover from whence, or by whom it was thrown. Take this as a just specimen of the city of Morocco.

The character of the inhabitants differs very little from that of those of the deserts. They are not quite so stout, and rather fairer. They are more accustomed to the sight of Europeans, and therefore are less surprised with it, but they are equally addicted to the practice of insulting them. I have seen many of them enter into the houses of the consul and M. Duprat, sit down, and without asking it as a favour, demand of them something to eat and drink; nay, even require that they should give them what they thought fit to ask. A porter, who had no other trouble than to open three times to the consul, the gate of the court where the emperor was, came with great effrontery to him demanding a gratification. He gave him some silver pieces, with which he was far from satisfied. He therefore continued holding out his hand, and cryingZit(give more, this is not sufficient), with an arrogance equally ridiculous as his demand.

The secretaries and writers behave in the same manner; they impose their demands on all who have any concern with them. The principal crown officers are still more greedy of presents, and especially of great piastres, of which the value is 5livres and 10 sols. Their master makes it his daily business, to examine them what they have gained by doing any piece of business, or executing any commission. He gives them considerable posts, or sends them upon an embassy; and when it is presumed that they have amassed a certain fortune, they are accused of some misconduct, stripped of all their possessions, and left to finish their days in slavery. Their very children are not exempted from these acts of barbarity. The same Mouley Adaram, whom I have already mentioned, lives at this day wandering in the Desert, and among his banditti, in consequence of having fallen a victim to his father's covetousness. I do not know if this young prince has ever shown any good qualities, but in the Desert he is only considered as a barbarous prince, who will prove a very cruel tyrant, if ever he mounts the throne. It is true, the throne appears at present to be destined for his brother Moulem36Azy, who is as worthless as himself.

36This was written before my return from Senegal. It may be noticed, that the son has since declared war against the father.

May I be permitted to observe, how extraordinary it is, that a prince so little to be dreaded as the Emperor of Morocco, should oblige the different powers of Europe to send ambassadors to him, and that he should even dictate laws to them. There is not a single sovereign who dares to send a representative to his court without making him at the same time considerable presents; and what envoy would present himself without having his hands full? When M. Chenier, envoy from the court of France, delivered his despatches to theemperor, some thing in them had given offence to him; he therefore wrapped them in a dirty handkerchief, and hung them about the consul's neck, who was accordingly publickly exposed to the mockeries and insults of that cruel nation. How happens it that the consuls have not, by common consent, represented to their respective sovereigns, that the Emperor of Morocco becomes every day more and more powerful by the supplies which they themselves furnish him? Twenty years ago, this prince was absolutely destitute of resources. He had neither materials, nor any place for casting cannons; and he was equally in want of wood for building ships, of ropes, of nails, and even of workmen. It is France, and other European powers, that assist him, else the Emperor of Morocco would be of little consideration. His superb batteries of brass cannons, twenty-four, thirty-six, and forty-eight pounders, were furnished by Holland, Spain, England, and France. England has done more than other nations, by selling him those beautiful cannons which were taken on the floating batteries. Mogador, that part of it which is next to Morocco, is built in an advantageous situation. Its batteries are well disposed, and there are cannon at each embrasure; but they are there only in a manner for show, as they have no carriages, and are supported only by brick work. There are no workmen in the country capable of mounting them on carriages, nor is there wood proper for making them. Did a few vessels only wait for the sailing of those small frigates, which are almost all unfit for sea, except only two, nothing would be easier than to prevent them from returning, and to block up the ports of Mogador,Rabat, and Sallee. What would become of his commerce, and, above all, his marine, did the Christian princes cease to assist him, contrary to the interests of humanity! Would England and Spain unite only for a moment, Tangiers, his most beautiful port, would soon be so far ruined, that it could not afford shelter to his subjects, who, destitute of ships, would soon be obliged to give over their piracies.

If the consuls of different nations have never made these observations, and if they have never pointed out the means of curbing the insolence of the Emperor of Morocco, it is because they are at the head of the commerce which these different powers carry on in that part of the world. The Spanish consul bought up almost all the corn of the country, and ships were sent off with it, according to his consignments. The French consul is the only one who does not engage in commerce. I can positively assert, that these representatives, instead of furnishing their courts with the means of diminishing the power of the emperor, never cease to add to his strength, and to incite him to make new pretensions. How much we assist these pirates to hurt the advantageous trade which we might carry on! Their situation renders them very dangerous; but if we leave them only their situation, it would be impossible for them to profit much by it. Let impartial people pay a visit to that country—let them speak with the same sincerity as I do, and they will no doubt be convinced that the Emperor of Morocco, of all the princes in the world, would be the least able to do mischief, did the sovereigns of Europe cease to furnish him with succours.

At length, the hour came, when my chains were to be broken off. One day the prince, on coming out of the mosque, gave the consul to understand, that he wished him to attend with his slaves, in the court where he held hisMechoir(a kind of public audience). "Consul," said he to M. Durocher, "I hope that you will not be like your predecessor, whose haughtiness displeased me exceedingly. Observe this young man (pointing to the vice-consul), he is pleasant and complaisant. He constantly endeavours to please me. I wish you to imitate him. I have desired it of you. You must write to your master, that I am satisfied with his presents. Adieu, retire a little with the slaves which I havegiven you.37Choose any of my ports which may be most convenient for your embarkation. Adieu, I go to name the officers of my court, who will accompany you to the place of the consular residence."

37We were seven in number, viz. myself, the baker, and five others, belonging to the ship (Les Deux Amis) the Two Friends, which had been shipwrecked some time before us.

It was customary at these audiences, for the emperor to take cognizance of all the affairs of police. He appeared mounted upon a white horse, caparisoned with a scarlet and blue cloth; gold tassels hung round the crupper. A squire walked at the side of the sovereign, who held in his hand a long pole, at the end of which was an umbrella, to defend his majesty from the heat of the sun. The guard followed them on foot in great silence. Every thing announced fear. A look from the sovereign every where spread consternation. At his least word, he saw the head of one or more ofhis subjects fall without the least emotion. The culprit is lifeless, ere the last words of the sentence are out of his mouth. However, I never knew a rich man, who could buy his favour, suffer death, be his crime what it might.

What can be thought of a prince, who, upon an idea which had been suggested to him, that I was doubtless a Christian, more remarkable than the rest, because I was better drest, and the consul paid me more attention, forget every thing he had promised, and sent orders to Mogador, to arrest me, and send me back to Morocco? Happily the winds had wafted me to too great a distance, when the messenger came to signify to the governor his master's pleasure.

I may therefore say that misfortune followed me to the last. I had certainly sunk under my misfortunes as well as my companions, had I not been supported by a steady firmness, and an unlimited confidence in Divine Providence. I must not forget to mention, that before my departure, Sidy Sellem went away abundantly satisfied with the generosity of the consul.

I did not wish to interrupt my narrative, as I thought it would be more proper, that it should be followed with my various observations on the religion, manners, usages, &c. of a people, who are very little known, and who, for that reason, may become very interesting. Fatal experience has put it in my power to representthem. The reader may rest assured, that I will be no less guided by truth, in the description which I am now to laybefore him, than I have been in the preceding recital of my particular adventures.

The Arabs of the Desert follow the religion of Mahomet; but they have entirely disfigured it by the grossest superstitions. They live constantly wandering in the midst of the dry sands of Africa. There are certain colonies of them who traverse continually the borders of the sea, without having any fixed dwelling. They are distributed into tribes, more or less considerable. Every tribe is divided into hordes, and every horde encamps in the districts which appear most likely to furnish pasturage for the support of their cattle, and that in such a manner, that one tribe is never wholly united. They are thus frequently intermixed with certain villages of the tribes of the Ouadelims, Labdesseba, La Loussye, Lathidium, Chelus, Tucanois, Ouadelis, &c. The two first are the most formidable—they carry their ravages to the very gates of Morocco. It is not therefore without reason that the Emperor fears them. They are in general tall, handsome, stout and vigorous men. They have commonly bristled hair, a long beard, a furious look, large hanging ears, and their nails as long as claws; they always use their nails in the wars wherein they are almost constantly engaged with their neighbours. The Ouadelims, in a particular manner, are fierce, arrogant, warlike, and given to plunder; they carry terror and dread with them wherever they go. However, like the other Arabs, their courage commonly fails them, when they have not a decided superiority.

All these colonies lodge by families, in tents, covered with a thick cloth made of camels hair. It is the women who spin their cloth, and weaveit upon a loom, so small, that they work it sitting upon the ground. The furniture of their dwellings, consists of two large leather sacks, which answer the purpose of keeping all their old clothes, and any pieces of old iron; of three or four goat-skins (if they can procure as many), in which they keep their milk and water; of some wooden dishes, some pack-saddles for their camels, two large stones for grinding their barley, a smaller one to drive in the pikes of their tents, an osier matting which serves for a bed, a thick carpet for a covering, and a small kettle. These are the pieces of furniture which distinguish the rich from the poor. Their flocks, by which their riches are estimated, consist of two or three horses, several camels, some sheep and goats. The less fortunate have goats and sheep only.

The principal part of their devotions, and that which they observe with the greatest attention, is prayer. There are different kinds of it: the first commences always before sun-rising. The Talbe is distinguished by the length of his beard, a piece of woollen cloth, half white and half crimson, which he leaves loose and flowing about his body, and under which appears a figure, exhausted by fasting, (the consequence of excessive laziness), and a kind of chaplet of an enormous size. He raises a sad and lamentable voice, which one would be ready to suppose to be that of a pious and contrite man, but which is, in fact, that of a hypocrite. Girt with a poignard, he seeks the place where his perfidious arm can, with assurance, aim the blow with which he wishes to pierce the heart of his neighbour, his friend, and often his brother. By his uncouth sounds, he calls his people to come and range themselves under his banner, to hear the praises of the Prophet. They all run up to him with a holy respect; but before the priest begins his prayer, they throw off a little coat, which they wear fastened to their girdle, and in which they are wrapped, as it is the drapery of which their clothing consists. The Talbe afterwards bows himself towards the ground. He removes with his hands that upon which his feet were placed; then takes up a handful of the sand which has not been dirtied, and in place of water, rubs with it his face, hands and arms up to the elbows, in order to purify himself from all his uncleanness. The people follow his example.

When the prayer is ended, they stop for some time, sitting squat-down behind, and trace different figures upon the sand with their fingers, and turn them round their head, as if sprinkling themselves with a holy unction. The savages, while thus employed, show as much exterior piety and respect as we can do in our churches. I do not believe, however, that it is possible to make a greater jest of religion than they do, when their prayers are ended. The women, who only attend the morning matins, and those which they go about at ten o'clock at night, place themselves at the gate of their tents, and keep themselves with their faces towards the east.

When the first part of their religious exercise is performed, their next business is the milking of the flocks. They begin with the she-camels, giving them a great many blows with their feet, until they make them rise. As soon as they are on their legs, they take off from their udder a kind ofcovering made of ropes worked together, which is intended to prevent the young camel from sucking. The young one then runs up to its mother, and, by its caresses, prepares her to yield her milk in greater abundance. The master and the keeper of the flock watch the moment when the lips of the young camel are covered with a white foam: they then separate it from its mother; and each resting his head on different sides against the animal's belly, they press the udder, from which they sometimes draw five pints of milk, when the rains have rendered the earth fruitful. The keeper of the flock, after taking a few draughts every time he milks, pours the rest into a vessel destined for that purpose, and placed close by the side of his mistress; for he is allowed no other nourishment than the milk which he draws from the last of the camels. When all the milk is thus collected, the mistress puts aside her part, which is never the least; then serves her husband and his children; and lays up the rest in a goat's skin, which she leaves exposed to the sun before the milk be made into butter. Three or four hours after, the young girls bring from the fields the sheep and the goats. The mother, who is always present at the last milking, mixes the milk procured by it with that of the camels; and when the sun has sufficiently warmed it, they separate the cream from it, in order to make butter. What remains, serves as drink for the rest of the day. When the butter is made, they put it into small skins, where it acquires a strong smell, which, according to the taste of these barbarians, adds to its value. The women use it for greasing their hair: without this they would think something deficient in theirdress. One cannot believe to what excess they carry their coquetry. They dress their hair with great art. They keep it flowing in tresses upon their breasts, and fasten to it any thing they can find. I have seen some of them ornament it with shell-work, keys of chests, and padlocks, rings of umbrellas, and buttons of trowsers, which they have taken from sailors.

When their head-dress is thus so far prepared, they cover it with a greasy cloth, which surrounds their head, covers the one half of their nose, and ties below their chin. To give a brilliancy to their eyes, they comb the eye-lashes with a great copper needle, which they have rubbed upon a blue stone. Next comes the adjustment of their drapery; and here all the art lies in plaiting it neatly, and so as to keep the folds, in doing which they employ neither pins, cords, nor sewing. But that the work of the toilette may be complete, they paint the nails of their feet and hands with a reddish colour. A Moorish woman, who wishes to be considered as a beauty, must have long teeth shooting out of her mouth; the flesh from the shoulder to the elbow loose and flabby; their limbs, thighs and body, prodigiously thick; their gait slow and cramped. They have bracelets like the collar of great Danish dogs upon their arms and legs. In a word, they labour from their infancy to efface any beauties for which they are indebted to nature, and to substitute in their room ridiculous and disagreeable whims. They have no other dress in all their wardrobe than what I have described. To add to the inconveniences to which these women are subjected, let us only reflect, that the same linen on which they are delivered of a child, they receive its nastiness and blow their noses in; it is impossible to form an idea sufficiently disgusting, of the nastiness and horrid smell of the Moorish women.

Could one suppose that these hideous women are addicted to jealousy and evil-speaking? It is, however, a truth. One of them has, perhaps, occasion to go and borrow something from her neighbour. If she meets the husband, she veils her face, and presently with a trembling air enters the tent. But if the woman is by herself, she begins to speak all the evil she can of any neighbour who is better drest. This conversation goes on, when perhaps a third enters, who does not fail to lay in her word, in such a manner, as that the one half of the day is spent in evil speaking; and she very frequently goes away, probably without recollecting to seek what she came to borrow. Laziness and gluttony are also their favourite sins. They will expose themselves to numberless affronts, in order to procure a little camel or goat's flesh, when they know that it is dressing in any person's house. Their favourite morsel is the liver.

The men are addicted to almost the same vices. They commonly pass the whole day stretched out upon a netting to sleep, to smoke, or to clean themselves from vermin which torment them. The women have generally committed to their care those employments which the men would otherwise find no hesitation in doing reciprocally. There can be no cause of surprise that the whole country is infected with vermin. They content themselves with throwing them down, without taking the trouble to destroy them. Notwithstanding all my precaution, my beard was always filledwith them, and I may safely say it was none of the least of my sufferings during my captivity.

The men meet together sometimes in the day time, to entertain one another with their warlike exploits. Every one recites the number of enemies whom he has conquered. A ridiculously false story is almost constantly followed by a charge of lying; a quarrel is the consequence; and the conversation is generally terminated with some blows of the poignard. They can never agitate even the most indifferent question, without having their eyes inflamed with rage. Fury is depicted in every the least motion, and they cannot even converse upon domestic affairs, without roaring and yelling hideously.

Perfidy and treachery are two innate vices of the Arabs. It is for this reason they never stir from their tents unarmed. They never make any agreements in writing, well assured that he who receives an obligation would poignard him to whom he signed it, to cancel his debt; and therefore they always carry hung to their neck, a little leather purse, in which they carry about with them whatever they consider as precious. Although they keep nothing in their tents under lock and key, yet I have seen some of them having small chests; these coffers, which often do not contain the value of a small crown, are an object of desire to the whole colony—I must not even except the brother, father, nor son of the proprietor. My master's brother was particularly envious on account of the small booty with which I had enriched his brother. He proposed to me one day, as a very simple matter, that I shouldkill him during the night. He offered me his poignard, and promised to conduct me to Morocco when I had committed the crime. However discontented I then was with my situation, this proposal shocked me—it struck me with horror. However, it was soon renewed to me, with entreaties, by one of Sidy Mahammet's uncles, who, of all his relations, appeared to be most attached to him. I have frequently seen this man steal into my master's tent during the night, in order to carry off some old iron, or leather thong. This same man was one of the most considerable in the village. He was consulted in their different disputes, and his judgment was always deemed weighty by the poor—the rich paid little attention to any man's opinion.

Among the first lessons that they teach their young folks, are, to be expert in using the poignard, to tear the entrails of their enemy with their nails, and to give to a falsehood the semblance of truth. Those who to these talents add that of reading and writing, become very dangerous monsters, and thus acquire a very great ascendancy over their companions. It may be justly said, that they are from their infancy familiarized with vice, and equally happy in committing a bad or good action.

According to the custom of the country, every stranger Arab, to whatever district or tribe he belongs, known or unknown, is entitled to their hospitality. If there are many travellers, they all contribute towards the expense of their entertainment. All, without distinction, go out to meet a stranger, and welcome him upon his arrival, assist him in dismounting from his beast, and carry hisbaggage behind the bush, which is to defend him from the rigour of the night; for it is an established custom, that no stranger is admitted into their tent. This ceremony over, they sit down around the new comer; inquire of him the news of the country, whence he comes, and if the party have evacuated the places where they were encamped; if he fell in with any other person in districts more or less remote; and likewise if he found plenty of pasturage in the places through which he passed. When they have got an answer to these different questions, they then inquire to what tribe he belongs; but they never think of inquiring about his own health or welfare, till they are satisfied as to the other questions.

If no person is acquainted with the stranger in the horde which he visits, the richest among them entertain him. If there are many of them, the expense, as I have already said, becomes common. They serve to each a large bowl of milk, and of barley meal mixed with boiled milk, or water when it can be had. If the stranger can read, they give him the honour of saying prayers; in which case the Talbe of the village places himself by his side, as master of the ceremonies. This sums up all his entertainment, if he is a stranger little known among them; but if has any friends in the horde, or known to be rich, they quickly kill a good ram, or a fat sheep, to regale him. The women prepare the banquet; and while they are dressing the flesh, they serve up the fat first raw. So soon as the meat is ready, they begin by laying aside a portion for the husband; then that which they appoint for any of their neighbours, with whom they live on good terms. If this attention was neglected, itwould be an irreparable fault. They then place, with care, the travellers mess upon a truss of straw. The Arab who is the entertainer, causes aChristianslave or negro, to follow him, carrying on his head the repast for the guest, which however is not set before him till ten o'clock at night, although perhaps he arrived early in the morning. Their practice is to give nothing to eat, till night, when they feast either by the light of a clear moon, or by a great fire, for they must have fire in almost every season of the year. The traveller never fails earnestly to entreat the person who brings him his mess, to do him the honour of eating with him, but he generally declines it as much as possible, and his refusal is founded on respect for his guest.

The next morning the travellers pursue their journey, without taking leave of any person whatever. This manner of entertaining one another would be surely very commendable, were it not for the many stratagems which they make use of to avoid it. When an unknown stranger appears, they sometimes place at a little distance from their tent a camel's saddle, a mat, a gun and a little bundle, all seeming to intimate the baggage of some traveller who has alighted from his horse; but often these precautions do not hinder the stranger from settling beside the same baggage. The chief comes to declare that they belong to some Arab of a neighbouring village; but as this is a plan with which they are all equally acquainted, the visitor generally is not discouraged, he remains there; but in this case they revenge themselves on his importunity, by giving him a very slender portion of victuals. Then he keeps a sharp lookout, and if he sees any fire, he runs towards it in the hope of getting some flesh or broth. He takes great care to keep himself at first concealed behind the tent, in order to overhear what passes there, and to discover if they are at victuals; for they are at great pains, in order to prevent such visits, to take away very speedily the three stones which support the kettle; and in this case his plan succeeds, since they never see any person pass without inviting him to enter and partake of the feast. It often happens that, while the gormandizing goes on, they steal from behind the bush the effects which he secreted there; but this is only one trick for another, for he takes the first opportunity of paying them home in their own coin.

It is difficult to form a just idea of the pride and ignorance of these people. They not only imagine that they are the first people in the world, but they have the presumption to believe that the sun rises only for them. Several of them have repeatedly said to me, "Behold that luminary! which is unknown in thy country. During the night thou art not enlightened, as we are, by that heavenly body, which regulates our days and our fasts. His children38point out to us the hours of prayer. You have neither trees nor camels, sheep, goats, nor dogs. Are your women made like ours?"—"How long didst thou remain in the womb of thy mother?" said another. "As long," replied I, "as thou in that of thine."—"Indeed!" replied a third, counting my fingers and toes, "he is made like us; he differs only in his colour and language, which astonishes me."—"Do you sow barley inyour houses?" meaning our ships. "No," answered I;"we sow our fields almost in the same season as you."—"How!" cried out several of them, "do you inhabit the earth? We believed that you were born and lived on the sea." Such were the different questions I had to answer, when I had the honour of their conversation.

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