FOOTNOTES

Account of another route between Pasco and Lima, by Junin, Huaypacha, Pucara, Tucto.—Mines of Antacona, Casapalca, Pomacancha, San Mateo, San Juan de Matucana, Surco, Cocachacra, Santa Ana, and lastly, Chaclacayo.—Enumeration of a series of rocks, as they appear in succession from the pass of the Cordillera to the entrance into the Vale of Rimac.

The most frequented route between Lima and Pasco is that which we have described in the foregoing chapter; but, before we offer any particular account of Cerro Pasco, we may hastily run over the road which is sometimes taken from this place to the capital during the heavy falls of the periodical rains in the inland mountains, when several of the rivers on the road by Canta are deep and dangerous rapids. This route across a pass of the Cordillera at Tucto, near Yauli, is occasionallypreferred, as being shorter than the post-road by Tarma.

The traveller, who starts at an early hour from Cerro Pasco, passes by the villages of Old Pasco and Carhuamayo, and arrives in good time at the village of Junin, or Reyes. The ride is mostly by the lake of Chinchaycocha, and on pampa or nearly level ground. From Junin, he, on his second day’s journey, which is only counted as seven leagues, traverses the spacious plain of the same name, so justly memorable in the annals of South American independence, till he reaches that swampy ground, and crosses the very defile, where, in the year 1824, the Patriots were charged by the Spanish cavalry; and now, leaving this field of glory behind, he crosses to Huaypacha along a hilly pastoral district, with scarcely any regular footpath,—a circumstance which often renders a guide necessary. The silver ore of Huaypacha is toopoor in the present day to allow its mines to be worked with spirit. Here the principal metalliferous works are on the mine estate of Olevegoya and the well-informed Don Miguel Otero; where also a considerable portion of alcaser, or green barley, is raised as fodder for the cattle employed at the works. The entrance into Huaypacha is highly picturesque, from the striking configuration of the limestone rocks in which the silver is deposited, and which overhang and everywhere surround this neat mining village.

From Huaypacha we cross the river Jauja, over a soga-bridge of the same sort of materials with another at Oroya formerly described.[30]The next day’s ride, of about the same length with the preceding, is made over hilly pasture-ground to Tucto by Pucara,—the latter place, now in ruins, being once a famous mining establishment belongingto Don Pedro Arriarte, the great miner of Peru. At Tucto several Indian huts, and some of them of ridiculously small dimensions, are to be seen near the road; but lower down, and situated near a lake at the base of the Cordillera, is a mining estate in good order, though its mines in these latter times have proved ruinous to the miner. The soil around this estate is of a yellowish tint, and is said to abound in gold (a gold mine being also close to the house); and the stones by the road-side are, in numerous instances, covered with crusts of iron pyrites, which impart to them a beautiful appearance, such as, in the imagination of many unacquainted with mineralogy, may serve to give a very flattering idea of the golden treasure of this place.

On the heights of Tucto, to the extent of about half a league along the Cordillera, the surrounding rocks appear like vast masses of rusty iron, which, however, when a specimenis taken up and broken, presents the character of porphyry; but, as we proceed onward towards the summit of the Cordillera, no rocks are to be seen on the acclivity along which we travel, except we look high up, where, in form of mouldering projections, they rise amidst the débris which covers this part of the Cordillera down to the verge of the lakes beneath. The mule-road is a sort of track across the flank of this mass of loose and shuffling fragments, which consist of porphyry, and extend a considerable way towards Antacona, or the ruins of a mining village so called, on the very highest ridge of this mountain-pass. From the extent of the vestiges of industry still remaining, and the ruins of human dwellings seen among the weather-beaten cliffs, we may infer that these mines, like many others, abandoned for want of proper hydraulic machinery, at one time yielded useful metals and rich returns. On the Antacona side of the passthere is no appearance of permanent snow, for here, as on the plains, though it fall, it soon melts away; but just opposite, parallel to the line of road, and only separated by a marshy hollow in which several little lakes are contained, there are mountains or summits perpetually covered with snow of great depth, and the marsh and lakes just mentioned are supplied by rills which descend from the snow. At the mouths of the mines of Antacona, which are interspersed among rocks of porphyry or porphyritic green-stone, a great quantity of rubbish, extracted at a remote period from under ground, is to be seen. Among this rubbish there appears a large quantity of iron pyrites with quartz, and there is also a considerable quantity of loose calcareous matter separated from the ore by partial decomposition. We may mention that the famous mine of Alpamina, wrought in the present day in this vicinity, is embedded in a matrix of limestone.

Having descended some way from the cross on the highest point of the pass of Antacona, the surrounding rock (probably a variety of porphyry) has a reddish appearance, and is continued for a considerable distance to the village of Casapalca; and the soil also, at this part of the way, is of the same colour with the rock. We may likewise remark, that about the road-side, and in the river or mountain-stream, which is derived from the contribution of the numberless rivulets issuing from the heights, we see for the distance of about two leagues numerous large and small pudding-stones of the same reddish appearance.

Casapalca, distant by common reckoning two long leagues from Tucto, is now considered as a village or pueblo, though it appears to have been originally merely a mining establishment. Here the attention is arrested by a pretty cascade, which, making a great perpendicular descent, is receivedinto the interior of a jutting rock; and, after a subterranean passage of some extent, the concealed waters reappear, and in a gentle stream descend to join the river. From the foot of the Cordillera to Casapalca the llama thrives on the pasture, which it appears to find sweetest within a short distance of the snow-line.

From Casapalca to the next village below it, called Pomacancha or Chicle, there are two leagues of good road; and here green barley may be sometimes had to feed the hungry cattle, that are often nearly famished by the time they have arrived this far, after having crossed the Cordillera.

From Chicle to San Mateo, a distance of three leagues, there are two roads,—one by a famous steep or cuesta, and the other through a picturesque but rugged ravine along the windings of the river,—both of which we took notice of in describing the general features of the Sierra. San Mateo isa muleteer village like that of Obrajillo already described, and very much resembles it in climate and productions, though the temperature of the air may be a little colder here than at Obrajillo.

In crossing by the high mountain-path from Chicle to San Mateo, we observed that where the ascent commences on the higher side, or that nearest the Cordillera, the rock at the base of the mountain consists of porphyry; but, as we ascend the great cuesta, the precipice assumes the character of porphyritic green-stone. At the base of the descent on the lower, or San Mateo side of the mountain, there is by the road-side a projection of rock which has the appearance of mica-slate, but of which none of our travellers took up a specimen; as by this time the day was far gone, and both men and cattle were fatigued, and anxious to reach the lodgings for the night in time to provide convenient accommodation.

From San Mateo to the next stage, or the village of San Juan de Matucana, the distance is four very long leagues, mostly through a narrow and rock-bound ravine.

About a quarter of a league below San Mateo, green-stone rock discovers itself by the way-side; and, soon after we pass this crag, we cross the first of three bridges that are thrown over the river within the distance of little more than half a league between the first and last, on account of the narrowness of the ravine, that sometimes on the one side, sometimes on the other, hardly leaves space for a mule-road. Before crossing, in our descent, the first bridge, the rock is of limestone; but, on having at this place passed the water to the opposite side, the rock which presents itself is trap, and it continues nearly all the way from the first to the third or lowest bridge, where we meet with quartz, risingin very perpendicular and lofty masses. The rafters of the bridge rest on a projecting part of this towering cliff on the one side, and on the other on a corresponding projection of a formidable hill of porphyry opposed to it.

The next variety of rock is one of trap formation; it appears about half-way between San Mateo and Matucana, and throws off a great quantity of fragments of a slaty appearance. On the lower side it is flanked by a hill of porphyritic green-stone, which continues to within half a league of Matucana. This mass also throws off an immense quantity of débris. The porphyritic green-stone is followed by trachyte porphyry, the rock of which commences a short way above the village of Matucana, or San Juan de Matucana; but, before the junction of these rocks takes place, the road-way is intersected by a wedge or anglecomposed of syenetic green-stone, or porphyry with actynolite.

Having left Matucana (which is a considerable village enjoying a mild atmosphere, with some open ground around it,) for Surco, two or three leagues lower down, porphyry continues all the distance between these two villages. It throws off large fragments or masses, that nearly block up the road and bed of the river.

Surco is a small village, which possesses the temperature of Yaso on the Canta road; and, like it, is notorious for its waters producing the disease called verrugas, or warty excrescences. From Surco to a league and a half, or thereabouts, below it, we have trachyte porphyry; and, as we ride along, it becomes gradually coarser-grained, till each grain at length appears as large as a hazel-nut. It is succeeded by felspar porphyry, which extends along the side of the ravinein which we travel to the extent of about two leagues and a half, or a league below the village called Cocachacra, situated three leagues lower down the river or ravine than Surco. Cocachacra, within twelve leagues of the capital, is surrounded by fruit-trees; and here the traveller may recline at his ease in the grateful shade, while refreshment may be procured for man and beast.

From one league below Cocachacra we have syenite extending the distance of half a league by our way. It is followed by syenetic granite, and continues for some distance with a varying aspect, till it runs gradually into the coarse granite, which also appears in large loose blocks heaped on the face of the naked mountains between Saint Ana and Chaclacayo as we enter the headland of the Vale of Rimac.

The above-named villages of Chaclacayo (six leagues from the city), Cocachacra, Surco, Matucana, and San Mateo, affordsuccessive stages, and gradations of changes of air and climate to invalids from Lima, who are too enfeebled, or otherwise find it not convenient, to proceed beyond San Mateo, or to cross the Cordillera by Yauli for Tarma, nineteen leagues to the north-east of San Mateo.

FOOTNOTES[1]In Piura the temperature of the air, in summer, ranges from 80° to 96°, and in winter from 70° to 81°, Fahrenheit. The sea-breeze, or southerly wind, which commences to be felt about ten o’clock in the forenoon, is here hailed as the messenger of health by the natives, who are never visited by any sweeping and fatal epidemics.[2]Lima is situated in lat. 12° 2´ south, and long. 76° 58´ west. It stands six or seven miles inland from its sea-port of Callao, and the more elevated part of the city is about five hundred feet above the level of the sea. It has frequently suffered from earthquakes, which are very common; and one of the most remarkable occurred in the year 1828. Houses of one story have their walls usually composed of sun-burnt bricks calledadobes; but, that they may be better able to resist the shocks to which they are so often exposed, they are principally constructed, when of more than one story high, of wood and cane: the whole work, inside and out, being plastered over with clay, and white-washed or painted.[3]The Rimac divides the city of Lima from its suburbs of San Lazaro, and has over it an excellent bridge close to the palace. This bridge, accommodated with recesses and seats, is greatly resorted to in fine evenings. The young ladies of the metropolis, in their imposing evening party or tertulia attire and decoration, are fond, in times of public tranquillity, to saunter to the bridge on moonlight nights, and there to breathe the pure air of mountain and sea blended and eddying as it gives freshness to the pale cheek, and, in its cool and circling current, wafts fragrance from the choice flowers at this social hour gracefully wreathed around the Rimac beauties’ heads.[4]We shall have, by and by, further occasion to speak of Amencaes, where there grows a handsome yellow flower of the same name, which on the first approach of slight showers and vapours, at the commencement of the wet season on the coast, is the pioneer of vegetation; as the primrose, in our own glens, presages the returning verdure of spring.[5]The proportion which the different sexes, castes, and conditions, &c. of the inhabitants of Lima bore to one another in the year 1818, may be learned from the subjoined summary taken from the census of Juan Baso, Oidor.Summary of Men by Castes.Summary of Men by Wards.Gen. amt. of the whole.Summary of Women by Wards.Summary of Women by Castes.Secular Spaniards84061st Ward68417975Ward 1st9455Secular Spanish women.Priests and Friars13312nd Id.588227,5456090— 2nd506Nuns.Mestizoes26603rd Id.63897420— 3rd3262Mestiza women.Indians15614th Id.351226,5534756— 4th1731Indian women.Free Negroes and Pardos4220Cercado, the higher part of the city so called259—312Cercado7715Black and swarthy free women.Id. slaves4705In wards4662——3884Id. slaves.22,88327,54554,09826,55326,553To convey a more particular idea of the different races of people in Lima, as these are divided and subdivided, and change in colour by intermixing with one another, we shall add tables on the subject, given by Dr. Unanue, in his work titled “Observaciones sobre el clima de Lima.”Intermarriages.Offspring.Colour.Mixture.Men.Women.EuropeanEuropeanCreoleWhite—CreoleCreoleCreoleWhite—WhiteIndianMestizoeWhite—WhiteMestizaCreoleWhite—WhiteNegressMulatto—1/2 negro, 1/2 white.WhiteMulattaQuarteron—1/4 negro, 3/4 white.WhiteQuarteronaQuinteron—1/8 negro, 7/8 white.WhiteQuinteronaWhite——NegroIndianChino——The same author gives the following as the retrograde intermarriages, by which the offspring are of a more dingy appearance, and made to recede more and more from white, which he takes as the standard primitive colour.Marriages.Offspring.Colour.Negro,Negress,Negro.Negro,Mulatta,Zambo,3/4 negro, 1/4 white.Negro,Zamba,Dark Zambo,7/8 negro, 1/8 white.Negro,Dark Zambo,Negro,15/16 negro, 1/16 white.Negro,China,Zambo.[6]This idea is not founded on experience; for that the Indian women are really good nurses is proved by the fact, that the offspring of European fathers and Indian mothers,—viz. the Mestizo race,—are very robust.[7]See Appendix, Art. Ecclesiastical Jubilee.[8]This dress, peculiarly characteristic of Lima, is little known in other parts of the country, if we except Truxillo. Captain Basil Hall in his Journal, vol. i. p. 106, describes it very correctly. “This dress,” says he, “consists of two parts, one called the saya, the other the manto. The first is a petticoat, made to fit so tightly, that, being at the same time quite elastic, the form of the limbs is rendered distinctly visible. The manto, or cloak, is also a petticoat; but, instead of hanging about the heels, as all honest petticoats ought to do, it is drawn over the head, breast, and face; and is kept so close by the hands, which it also conceals, that no part of the body, except one eye, and sometimes only a small portion of one eye, is perceptible.”We may observe that, though strange pranks are sometimes indulged in under this disguise, yet it is considered, by those accustomed to it, a convenient dress in itself, in a country where it is usual to hear morning mass before there has been time to braid and adjust the hair, which is sometimes so long as almost to reach the pretty foot and ancle. It is therefore considered a convenience by women of every class, and even of every age, to slip over their ordinary house-dress a saya and manto when they desire to go to the street “tapada,” or with the head and face covered with the thin silken petticoat or manto as described, without being put to the trouble of appearing dressed in a more elegant and formal manner, or after European fashion, as they do at evening parties, or when they frequent places of public amusement,—as the theatre or bull-ring, and promenade in calashes or carriages in their different alamedas, or public walks. In allusion to the custom of going veiled in the street, the true Limeña lady is agreeably characterized by their common saying,En la calle, calladita;En la casa, señorita.[9]The following lines, penned by an ancient Spanish poet, are so exactly descriptive of Lima, as the paradise of women, that one might imagine they had been written to describe it.“Aqui gobierna y siempre gobernoAquella reina que en la mar nacio.Aqui su cetro y su corona tieneY desde aqui sus dadivas reparte,Aqui su ley y su poder mantieneMucho mejor que en otra cualquier parte.”“Sobre una fresca y verde y grande vegaLa casa de esta reina esta asentada:Un rio al deredor toda la riega,De arboles la ribera esta sembrada,La sombra de los cuales al sol niegaEn el solsticio la caliente entrada;Los arboles estan llenos de floresPor do cantando van los ruiseñores.”Rimas Antig. Castellanas.[10]The ancient Indian temple of Pachacamac is situate about six leagues from Lima on a sandy height, now deprived of irrigation, which overlooks the delicious vale of Lurin. From this adoratory the sun is seen as he sinks in majesty under the face of the ocean—when“O’er the hush’d deep the yellow beam he throws,Gilds the green wave, that trembles as it glows.”Byron.[11]The yanacones usually possess from their employers a small piece of land which they cultivate for their own use, and in return give to the masters one or two days’ labour weekly for this holding of the estate or farm. On other days they have a right to demand payment in money, according to the current rate of wages in their district.[12]The following very scholar-like inscription for the English burial-ground, his countrymen owe to our accomplished and excellent friend, Mr. Thomas Lance of Lima:—Degentes per hæc locaBritanni,auspice suo ConsuleBelford Hinton Wilson,gratissimoque hujus Reipublicæconcessu et beneficio,è communibus copiis,Regiâ, censente Senatu, auctis munificentiâ,hoc Cœmeteriumstruxerunt, sacraveruntque,A. D. ——:ut, posthac,suæ gentisqui procul à patriâ, longinquâ hâc scilicet,sed amicissimâ terrâ,supremum obierint diem,spe fideque patrum innixi,in his sedibusrequiescant.[13]See Appendix.[14]See paper in vol. ii. of Mercurio Peruano for July 1791; and the Inaugural Oration on opening the Anatomical Amphitheatre, inserted, for February 1793, in vol. vii. of same work.[15]Unanue, “Sobre el Clima de Lima,” p. 313.[16]Sheriff John Wood, the gratuitous and philanthropic teacher of the Sessional School of Edinburgh.[17]Homer must have visited Lima, either in the body or in the mind, when he penned those beautiful lines which so precisely describe it, and are thus translated by Pope:Stern winter smiles on that auspicious clime:The fields are florid with unfading prime:From the bleak pole no winds inclement blow,Mould the round hail, or flake the fleecy snow;But from the breezy deep the blest inhaleThe fragrant murmurs of the western gale.Odyssey, Book iv. l. 767.[18]“Cruachan,” the loftiest mountain in Argyleshire, well known to tourists in Scotland.[19]By this embrace the victorious troops under General Bermudes forsook his cause, and at once terminated hostilities by changing sides and declaring themselves soldiers of Orbegoso and the republic, which they ratified by embracing the troops that fled before them on the day of battle.[20]On the day a curate performs church service, he does not breakfast until after mass.[21]We say “Romish policy,” because on this subject St. Paul’s precept is,Quod si non se continent nubant.[22]When the Spaniards took possession of Peru, the monarchy of the Incas, according to the tradition of the Indians, ascended to an epoch of about four centuries.“That country had been, time immemorial, inhabited by scattered, rude, and savage tribes, whose civilization originated from the austral regions, among the people who inhabited the vicinity of the great lake of Titicaca, in the district of Callao. These Indians were probably more warlike, active, and intelligent than their neighbours; and as there is scarcely any people who do not, either from pride or superstition, trace themselves to a heavenly origin, so did the Peruvians relate, that there once suddenly appeared among them a man and woman, whose aspect, dress, and language inspired them with wonder and veneration. He called himself Manco Capac, she Mama Oello; and they proclaimed themselves children of the sun, whose worship and adoration they inculcated.”“The kingdom remained in the line of their descendants, who were ever regarded as the pure race of the sun; the princes marrying their sisters, and the offspring of these unions being alone eligible to the throne. From Manco to Huayna Capac they counted a succession of twelve princes, who, partly by persuasion and partly by arms, extended their religion, dominion, and laws, through the immense region which runs from Chili to the Equator, gaining or subduing all the people they encountered, either in the mountains of the Cordilleras, or on the plains of the coast. The Inca who most extended the empire was Topa Yupanqui, who carried his conquests southward as far as Chili, and on the north to Quito; although, according to most authors, it was not he who conquered the latter province, but his son Huayna Capac, the most powerful, wealthy, and able of all the Peruvian princes.”“In his reign were established, or greatly perfected, three grand mediums of communication, necessary to provinces so distant and various,—the use of a general dialect, the establishment of posts for the prompt conveyance of intelligence, and lastly, the two great roads which extend from Cuzco to Quito, a distance of more than five hundred leagues. Of these two roads one passes over the Sierras, the other crosses the plains, and both were provided, at proper and convenient distances, with lodgings or quarters, which were called tambos, where the monarch, his court, and army, even though amounting to twenty or thirty thousand men, might find rest and refreshment, and even renew, if necessary, their arms and apparel.”—See pages 158-161 of the interesting work entitled, “Lives of Balboa and Pizarro, from the Spanish of Don Manuel Josef Quintana,” by Mrs. Hodson.[23]To separate wheat and barley from the ear, it is customary to tread the grain by oxen or young cattle.[24]The Indian gardens on the hills of the Sierra are by the Spaniards calledAndenes, whence Andes.[25]Cuzco, situate in latitude 13° 32´ 20´´ S. in a cool and bracing climate, in the midst of a valley, between the eastern and western chains of Cordillera, has in its vicinity warm and fertile ravines or glens. It is said to have been founded by Manco Capac, the first Inca, in the middle of the eleventh century; and Francis Pizarro took possession of it, in the name of Charles I. King of Castile, on the 13th March 1534. In the year 1590, this celebrated capital of the old Peruvian empire suffered from a violent earthquake, which ruined a great part of its ancient monuments. The architecture of the great Temple of the Sun, and fortress, close to the city, still exhibit a different style of masonry from that which we have described above, and is most usual in the Sierra of Peru, where there are numerous ruins of villages and tambos, constructed with stone of very ordinary size. But, at Cuzco, the ruins of the temple and fortress yet remaining are formed of stones of vast magnitude, and of irregular shapes; yet, so exactly are they adjusted, that no void, or cement, is visible at their points of junction.[26]Commentarios Reales de los Incas, lib. viii. cap. xii.[27]Corral means a cattle pen.[28]Ignorant of this, and believing no roof to be near under which to take shelter, we have known travellers obliged to pass the night very miserably, and with no small risk of health, on the plain, or by the cascade at the base of the Viuda.[29]The name of this place is very appropriate, as it implies the fare it affords.Casais the Spanish word for house, andcanchais the Quichua name for toasted Indian corn: hence Casa-cancha, or the House of Toasted Maize.[30]See p. 241.

[1]In Piura the temperature of the air, in summer, ranges from 80° to 96°, and in winter from 70° to 81°, Fahrenheit. The sea-breeze, or southerly wind, which commences to be felt about ten o’clock in the forenoon, is here hailed as the messenger of health by the natives, who are never visited by any sweeping and fatal epidemics.

[2]Lima is situated in lat. 12° 2´ south, and long. 76° 58´ west. It stands six or seven miles inland from its sea-port of Callao, and the more elevated part of the city is about five hundred feet above the level of the sea. It has frequently suffered from earthquakes, which are very common; and one of the most remarkable occurred in the year 1828. Houses of one story have their walls usually composed of sun-burnt bricks calledadobes; but, that they may be better able to resist the shocks to which they are so often exposed, they are principally constructed, when of more than one story high, of wood and cane: the whole work, inside and out, being plastered over with clay, and white-washed or painted.

[3]The Rimac divides the city of Lima from its suburbs of San Lazaro, and has over it an excellent bridge close to the palace. This bridge, accommodated with recesses and seats, is greatly resorted to in fine evenings. The young ladies of the metropolis, in their imposing evening party or tertulia attire and decoration, are fond, in times of public tranquillity, to saunter to the bridge on moonlight nights, and there to breathe the pure air of mountain and sea blended and eddying as it gives freshness to the pale cheek, and, in its cool and circling current, wafts fragrance from the choice flowers at this social hour gracefully wreathed around the Rimac beauties’ heads.

[4]We shall have, by and by, further occasion to speak of Amencaes, where there grows a handsome yellow flower of the same name, which on the first approach of slight showers and vapours, at the commencement of the wet season on the coast, is the pioneer of vegetation; as the primrose, in our own glens, presages the returning verdure of spring.

[5]The proportion which the different sexes, castes, and conditions, &c. of the inhabitants of Lima bore to one another in the year 1818, may be learned from the subjoined summary taken from the census of Juan Baso, Oidor.Summary of Men by Castes.Summary of Men by Wards.Gen. amt. of the whole.Summary of Women by Wards.Summary of Women by Castes.Secular Spaniards84061st Ward68417975Ward 1st9455Secular Spanish women.Priests and Friars13312nd Id.588227,5456090— 2nd506Nuns.Mestizoes26603rd Id.63897420— 3rd3262Mestiza women.Indians15614th Id.351226,5534756— 4th1731Indian women.Free Negroes and Pardos4220Cercado, the higher part of the city so called259—312Cercado7715Black and swarthy free women.Id. slaves4705In wards4662——3884Id. slaves.22,88327,54554,09826,55326,553To convey a more particular idea of the different races of people in Lima, as these are divided and subdivided, and change in colour by intermixing with one another, we shall add tables on the subject, given by Dr. Unanue, in his work titled “Observaciones sobre el clima de Lima.”Intermarriages.Offspring.Colour.Mixture.Men.Women.EuropeanEuropeanCreoleWhite—CreoleCreoleCreoleWhite—WhiteIndianMestizoeWhite—WhiteMestizaCreoleWhite—WhiteNegressMulatto—1/2 negro, 1/2 white.WhiteMulattaQuarteron—1/4 negro, 3/4 white.WhiteQuarteronaQuinteron—1/8 negro, 7/8 white.WhiteQuinteronaWhite——NegroIndianChino——The same author gives the following as the retrograde intermarriages, by which the offspring are of a more dingy appearance, and made to recede more and more from white, which he takes as the standard primitive colour.Marriages.Offspring.Colour.Negro,Negress,Negro.Negro,Mulatta,Zambo,3/4 negro, 1/4 white.Negro,Zamba,Dark Zambo,7/8 negro, 1/8 white.Negro,Dark Zambo,Negro,15/16 negro, 1/16 white.Negro,China,Zambo.

To convey a more particular idea of the different races of people in Lima, as these are divided and subdivided, and change in colour by intermixing with one another, we shall add tables on the subject, given by Dr. Unanue, in his work titled “Observaciones sobre el clima de Lima.”

The same author gives the following as the retrograde intermarriages, by which the offspring are of a more dingy appearance, and made to recede more and more from white, which he takes as the standard primitive colour.

[6]This idea is not founded on experience; for that the Indian women are really good nurses is proved by the fact, that the offspring of European fathers and Indian mothers,—viz. the Mestizo race,—are very robust.

[7]See Appendix, Art. Ecclesiastical Jubilee.

[8]This dress, peculiarly characteristic of Lima, is little known in other parts of the country, if we except Truxillo. Captain Basil Hall in his Journal, vol. i. p. 106, describes it very correctly. “This dress,” says he, “consists of two parts, one called the saya, the other the manto. The first is a petticoat, made to fit so tightly, that, being at the same time quite elastic, the form of the limbs is rendered distinctly visible. The manto, or cloak, is also a petticoat; but, instead of hanging about the heels, as all honest petticoats ought to do, it is drawn over the head, breast, and face; and is kept so close by the hands, which it also conceals, that no part of the body, except one eye, and sometimes only a small portion of one eye, is perceptible.”We may observe that, though strange pranks are sometimes indulged in under this disguise, yet it is considered, by those accustomed to it, a convenient dress in itself, in a country where it is usual to hear morning mass before there has been time to braid and adjust the hair, which is sometimes so long as almost to reach the pretty foot and ancle. It is therefore considered a convenience by women of every class, and even of every age, to slip over their ordinary house-dress a saya and manto when they desire to go to the street “tapada,” or with the head and face covered with the thin silken petticoat or manto as described, without being put to the trouble of appearing dressed in a more elegant and formal manner, or after European fashion, as they do at evening parties, or when they frequent places of public amusement,—as the theatre or bull-ring, and promenade in calashes or carriages in their different alamedas, or public walks. In allusion to the custom of going veiled in the street, the true Limeña lady is agreeably characterized by their common saying,En la calle, calladita;En la casa, señorita.

We may observe that, though strange pranks are sometimes indulged in under this disguise, yet it is considered, by those accustomed to it, a convenient dress in itself, in a country where it is usual to hear morning mass before there has been time to braid and adjust the hair, which is sometimes so long as almost to reach the pretty foot and ancle. It is therefore considered a convenience by women of every class, and even of every age, to slip over their ordinary house-dress a saya and manto when they desire to go to the street “tapada,” or with the head and face covered with the thin silken petticoat or manto as described, without being put to the trouble of appearing dressed in a more elegant and formal manner, or after European fashion, as they do at evening parties, or when they frequent places of public amusement,—as the theatre or bull-ring, and promenade in calashes or carriages in their different alamedas, or public walks. In allusion to the custom of going veiled in the street, the true Limeña lady is agreeably characterized by their common saying,

En la calle, calladita;En la casa, señorita.

En la calle, calladita;

En la casa, señorita.

[9]The following lines, penned by an ancient Spanish poet, are so exactly descriptive of Lima, as the paradise of women, that one might imagine they had been written to describe it.“Aqui gobierna y siempre gobernoAquella reina que en la mar nacio.Aqui su cetro y su corona tieneY desde aqui sus dadivas reparte,Aqui su ley y su poder mantieneMucho mejor que en otra cualquier parte.”“Sobre una fresca y verde y grande vegaLa casa de esta reina esta asentada:Un rio al deredor toda la riega,De arboles la ribera esta sembrada,La sombra de los cuales al sol niegaEn el solsticio la caliente entrada;Los arboles estan llenos de floresPor do cantando van los ruiseñores.”Rimas Antig. Castellanas.

[9]The following lines, penned by an ancient Spanish poet, are so exactly descriptive of Lima, as the paradise of women, that one might imagine they had been written to describe it.

“Aqui gobierna y siempre gobernoAquella reina que en la mar nacio.Aqui su cetro y su corona tieneY desde aqui sus dadivas reparte,Aqui su ley y su poder mantieneMucho mejor que en otra cualquier parte.”“Sobre una fresca y verde y grande vegaLa casa de esta reina esta asentada:Un rio al deredor toda la riega,De arboles la ribera esta sembrada,La sombra de los cuales al sol niegaEn el solsticio la caliente entrada;Los arboles estan llenos de floresPor do cantando van los ruiseñores.”Rimas Antig. Castellanas.

“Aqui gobierna y siempre goberno

Aquella reina que en la mar nacio.

Aqui su cetro y su corona tiene

Y desde aqui sus dadivas reparte,

Aqui su ley y su poder mantiene

Mucho mejor que en otra cualquier parte.”

“Sobre una fresca y verde y grande vega

La casa de esta reina esta asentada:

Un rio al deredor toda la riega,

De arboles la ribera esta sembrada,

La sombra de los cuales al sol niega

En el solsticio la caliente entrada;

Los arboles estan llenos de flores

Por do cantando van los ruiseñores.”

Rimas Antig. Castellanas.

[10]The ancient Indian temple of Pachacamac is situate about six leagues from Lima on a sandy height, now deprived of irrigation, which overlooks the delicious vale of Lurin. From this adoratory the sun is seen as he sinks in majesty under the face of the ocean—when“O’er the hush’d deep the yellow beam he throws,Gilds the green wave, that trembles as it glows.”Byron.

“O’er the hush’d deep the yellow beam he throws,Gilds the green wave, that trembles as it glows.”Byron.

“O’er the hush’d deep the yellow beam he throws,Gilds the green wave, that trembles as it glows.”

“O’er the hush’d deep the yellow beam he throws,

Gilds the green wave, that trembles as it glows.”

Byron.

[11]The yanacones usually possess from their employers a small piece of land which they cultivate for their own use, and in return give to the masters one or two days’ labour weekly for this holding of the estate or farm. On other days they have a right to demand payment in money, according to the current rate of wages in their district.

[12]The following very scholar-like inscription for the English burial-ground, his countrymen owe to our accomplished and excellent friend, Mr. Thomas Lance of Lima:—Degentes per hæc locaBritanni,auspice suo ConsuleBelford Hinton Wilson,gratissimoque hujus Reipublicæconcessu et beneficio,è communibus copiis,Regiâ, censente Senatu, auctis munificentiâ,hoc Cœmeteriumstruxerunt, sacraveruntque,A. D. ——:ut, posthac,suæ gentisqui procul à patriâ, longinquâ hâc scilicet,sed amicissimâ terrâ,supremum obierint diem,spe fideque patrum innixi,in his sedibusrequiescant.

[12]The following very scholar-like inscription for the English burial-ground, his countrymen owe to our accomplished and excellent friend, Mr. Thomas Lance of Lima:—

Degentes per hæc locaBritanni,auspice suo ConsuleBelford Hinton Wilson,gratissimoque hujus Reipublicæconcessu et beneficio,è communibus copiis,Regiâ, censente Senatu, auctis munificentiâ,hoc Cœmeteriumstruxerunt, sacraveruntque,A. D. ——:ut, posthac,suæ gentisqui procul à patriâ, longinquâ hâc scilicet,sed amicissimâ terrâ,supremum obierint diem,spe fideque patrum innixi,in his sedibusrequiescant.

[13]See Appendix.

[14]See paper in vol. ii. of Mercurio Peruano for July 1791; and the Inaugural Oration on opening the Anatomical Amphitheatre, inserted, for February 1793, in vol. vii. of same work.

[15]Unanue, “Sobre el Clima de Lima,” p. 313.

[16]Sheriff John Wood, the gratuitous and philanthropic teacher of the Sessional School of Edinburgh.

[17]Homer must have visited Lima, either in the body or in the mind, when he penned those beautiful lines which so precisely describe it, and are thus translated by Pope:Stern winter smiles on that auspicious clime:The fields are florid with unfading prime:From the bleak pole no winds inclement blow,Mould the round hail, or flake the fleecy snow;But from the breezy deep the blest inhaleThe fragrant murmurs of the western gale.Odyssey, Book iv. l. 767.

[17]Homer must have visited Lima, either in the body or in the mind, when he penned those beautiful lines which so precisely describe it, and are thus translated by Pope:

Stern winter smiles on that auspicious clime:The fields are florid with unfading prime:From the bleak pole no winds inclement blow,Mould the round hail, or flake the fleecy snow;But from the breezy deep the blest inhaleThe fragrant murmurs of the western gale.Odyssey, Book iv. l. 767.

Stern winter smiles on that auspicious clime:

The fields are florid with unfading prime:

From the bleak pole no winds inclement blow,

Mould the round hail, or flake the fleecy snow;

But from the breezy deep the blest inhale

The fragrant murmurs of the western gale.

Odyssey, Book iv. l. 767.

[18]“Cruachan,” the loftiest mountain in Argyleshire, well known to tourists in Scotland.

[19]By this embrace the victorious troops under General Bermudes forsook his cause, and at once terminated hostilities by changing sides and declaring themselves soldiers of Orbegoso and the republic, which they ratified by embracing the troops that fled before them on the day of battle.

[20]On the day a curate performs church service, he does not breakfast until after mass.

[21]We say “Romish policy,” because on this subject St. Paul’s precept is,Quod si non se continent nubant.

[21]We say “Romish policy,” because on this subject St. Paul’s precept is,

Quod si non se continent nubant.

[22]When the Spaniards took possession of Peru, the monarchy of the Incas, according to the tradition of the Indians, ascended to an epoch of about four centuries.“That country had been, time immemorial, inhabited by scattered, rude, and savage tribes, whose civilization originated from the austral regions, among the people who inhabited the vicinity of the great lake of Titicaca, in the district of Callao. These Indians were probably more warlike, active, and intelligent than their neighbours; and as there is scarcely any people who do not, either from pride or superstition, trace themselves to a heavenly origin, so did the Peruvians relate, that there once suddenly appeared among them a man and woman, whose aspect, dress, and language inspired them with wonder and veneration. He called himself Manco Capac, she Mama Oello; and they proclaimed themselves children of the sun, whose worship and adoration they inculcated.”“The kingdom remained in the line of their descendants, who were ever regarded as the pure race of the sun; the princes marrying their sisters, and the offspring of these unions being alone eligible to the throne. From Manco to Huayna Capac they counted a succession of twelve princes, who, partly by persuasion and partly by arms, extended their religion, dominion, and laws, through the immense region which runs from Chili to the Equator, gaining or subduing all the people they encountered, either in the mountains of the Cordilleras, or on the plains of the coast. The Inca who most extended the empire was Topa Yupanqui, who carried his conquests southward as far as Chili, and on the north to Quito; although, according to most authors, it was not he who conquered the latter province, but his son Huayna Capac, the most powerful, wealthy, and able of all the Peruvian princes.”“In his reign were established, or greatly perfected, three grand mediums of communication, necessary to provinces so distant and various,—the use of a general dialect, the establishment of posts for the prompt conveyance of intelligence, and lastly, the two great roads which extend from Cuzco to Quito, a distance of more than five hundred leagues. Of these two roads one passes over the Sierras, the other crosses the plains, and both were provided, at proper and convenient distances, with lodgings or quarters, which were called tambos, where the monarch, his court, and army, even though amounting to twenty or thirty thousand men, might find rest and refreshment, and even renew, if necessary, their arms and apparel.”—See pages 158-161 of the interesting work entitled, “Lives of Balboa and Pizarro, from the Spanish of Don Manuel Josef Quintana,” by Mrs. Hodson.

[22]When the Spaniards took possession of Peru, the monarchy of the Incas, according to the tradition of the Indians, ascended to an epoch of about four centuries.

“That country had been, time immemorial, inhabited by scattered, rude, and savage tribes, whose civilization originated from the austral regions, among the people who inhabited the vicinity of the great lake of Titicaca, in the district of Callao. These Indians were probably more warlike, active, and intelligent than their neighbours; and as there is scarcely any people who do not, either from pride or superstition, trace themselves to a heavenly origin, so did the Peruvians relate, that there once suddenly appeared among them a man and woman, whose aspect, dress, and language inspired them with wonder and veneration. He called himself Manco Capac, she Mama Oello; and they proclaimed themselves children of the sun, whose worship and adoration they inculcated.”

“The kingdom remained in the line of their descendants, who were ever regarded as the pure race of the sun; the princes marrying their sisters, and the offspring of these unions being alone eligible to the throne. From Manco to Huayna Capac they counted a succession of twelve princes, who, partly by persuasion and partly by arms, extended their religion, dominion, and laws, through the immense region which runs from Chili to the Equator, gaining or subduing all the people they encountered, either in the mountains of the Cordilleras, or on the plains of the coast. The Inca who most extended the empire was Topa Yupanqui, who carried his conquests southward as far as Chili, and on the north to Quito; although, according to most authors, it was not he who conquered the latter province, but his son Huayna Capac, the most powerful, wealthy, and able of all the Peruvian princes.”

“In his reign were established, or greatly perfected, three grand mediums of communication, necessary to provinces so distant and various,—the use of a general dialect, the establishment of posts for the prompt conveyance of intelligence, and lastly, the two great roads which extend from Cuzco to Quito, a distance of more than five hundred leagues. Of these two roads one passes over the Sierras, the other crosses the plains, and both were provided, at proper and convenient distances, with lodgings or quarters, which were called tambos, where the monarch, his court, and army, even though amounting to twenty or thirty thousand men, might find rest and refreshment, and even renew, if necessary, their arms and apparel.”—See pages 158-161 of the interesting work entitled, “Lives of Balboa and Pizarro, from the Spanish of Don Manuel Josef Quintana,” by Mrs. Hodson.

[23]To separate wheat and barley from the ear, it is customary to tread the grain by oxen or young cattle.

[24]The Indian gardens on the hills of the Sierra are by the Spaniards calledAndenes, whence Andes.

[25]Cuzco, situate in latitude 13° 32´ 20´´ S. in a cool and bracing climate, in the midst of a valley, between the eastern and western chains of Cordillera, has in its vicinity warm and fertile ravines or glens. It is said to have been founded by Manco Capac, the first Inca, in the middle of the eleventh century; and Francis Pizarro took possession of it, in the name of Charles I. King of Castile, on the 13th March 1534. In the year 1590, this celebrated capital of the old Peruvian empire suffered from a violent earthquake, which ruined a great part of its ancient monuments. The architecture of the great Temple of the Sun, and fortress, close to the city, still exhibit a different style of masonry from that which we have described above, and is most usual in the Sierra of Peru, where there are numerous ruins of villages and tambos, constructed with stone of very ordinary size. But, at Cuzco, the ruins of the temple and fortress yet remaining are formed of stones of vast magnitude, and of irregular shapes; yet, so exactly are they adjusted, that no void, or cement, is visible at their points of junction.

[26]Commentarios Reales de los Incas, lib. viii. cap. xii.

[27]Corral means a cattle pen.

[28]Ignorant of this, and believing no roof to be near under which to take shelter, we have known travellers obliged to pass the night very miserably, and with no small risk of health, on the plain, or by the cascade at the base of the Viuda.

[29]The name of this place is very appropriate, as it implies the fare it affords.Casais the Spanish word for house, andcanchais the Quichua name for toasted Indian corn: hence Casa-cancha, or the House of Toasted Maize.

[30]See p. 241.

END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

LONDON:PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEY,Dorset Street, Fleet Street.

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