Chapter 16

Setting the Table and Serving the Dinner,13The Dinner Party,27Cooking As an Accomplishment,30Breakfast,33Lunch,36Gentlemen’s Suppers,39Evening Parties,40Something About Economy,40Cooking Utensils,51DIRECTIONS AND EXPLANATIONS.Boiling,43Frying,43“ to Prepare Grease for,44Broiling,45Roasting,46Sautéing,47Braising,47Larding,48Boning,48Egg and Bread Crumbing,48To Cook Puddings in Boiling Water,49Dried Celery, Parsley, etc., for Winter Use,49Seeds for Soups,49To Flavor with Lemon Zest,50The Cook’s Table of Weights and Measures,50To Chop Suet,50Rising-powder Proportions,50To make Roux,51BREAD, AND BREAKFAST CAKES.To make Yeast,63To make Bread,64Mrs. Bonner’s Bread,64French Bread,65Petits Pains,66Toast,67Dixie Biscuit,68Graham Bread,68Rusks,68Parker House Rolls,68Beaten Biscuit,68Soda and Cream of Tartar Biscuit,69Biscuits with Baking-powder,69Muffins,70Waffles,70Rice Waffles,70Rice Pancakes,70Hominy Cake,70Baked Hominy Grits,71Breakfast Puffs, or Pop-overs,71Henriettes for Tea (No. 1),71Henriettes for Breakfast or Tea (No. 2),71Wafer Biscuits,72Corn Bread,72Hoe Cake,72Corn Cake,73Fried Corn Mush for Breakfast,73Corn Mush,73Oatmeal Porridge,74Mother Johnson’s Pancakes,74Sirup,74Buckwheat Cakes,74Pancakes, with Flour or Corn-meal,75Pancakes, with Bread-crumbs,75Strawberry Short-cake,75Tea,76Coffee,76Chocolate,78Cocoa,78SOUPS.Stock, or Pot au Feu,79A Simple Stock,80Gouffé’s Receipt for Stock, or Bouillon,80Bouillon served at Luncheons, Germans, etc.,81Amber Soup, or Clear Broth,81To make Caramel, or Burned Sugar, for coloring Broth,82Thickenings for Soup,82Additions to Beef Stock, to form Other Kinds of Soup,82Receipt for Force-meat Balls,83Soup, Macaroni,83“ Vermicelli,84Noodles,84“ to serve as a Vegetable,84Soup, Beef Noodle,85“ Spring,85“ Julienne, with Poached Eggs,86“ Asparagus,86Spinach Green,87Soup, Ox-tail,87“ Chicken (Potage à la Reine),87“ Purée of Chicken,88Soup, Plain Chicken,88“ Giblet,88“ Mock-turtle: Receipts for Egg and Meat Balls,89,90“ Mock-turtle (simple),91“ Gumbo,91“ Gumbo and Tomato,92“ Mullagatawny (an Indian Soup),92“ Oyster,93“ Clam,93“ Bean,94“ Bean and Tomato,94“ Onion (Soupe à l’Ognon),94“ Vegetable, without Meat (Purée aux Légumes),95“ Corn,96“ Tomato, with Rice,96“ Tomato (Purée aux Tomates),96“ Sorrel (Soupe à la Bonne Femme),97“ Potato (No. 1),97“ Potato (No. 2),98Purée of String-beans,98Bisque of Lobsters,98FISH.Fish, to Boil,100“ “ au Court Bouillon,100“ to Fry,101“ fried in Batter,101“ to Broil,102“ to Bake,102Stuffings for Fish,103Bread Stuffing,103Meat Stuffing,103To Bake a Fish with Wine,103To Stew Fish, or Fish en Matelote,104To Cook Fish au Gratin,104Fish à la Crème,105Salmon,106Salmon, to Broil,107Salmon Cutlets,108“ Slices of, Boiled,108“ Canned,108Shad,108Trout,108Trout in Cases or in Shells (en Coquilles),109Cod-fish,109Cod-fish, Crimped,109“ Salt,110“ Balls,110Fish Chowder,110Perch, Sun-fish, etc. (Pan-fish),111Mackerel and Smelts,111Fried Slices of Fish, with Tomato-sauce (Fish à l’Orlay),112To Fry Eels,112Eels Stewed,112SHELL-FISH.Oysters,113Oysters, Raw and Fried,113“ Scalloped, in Shells,114“ Scalloped,115Oyster Soup,93“ Stew,115Oysters, Fricassee of (Oysters à la Boulette),115Oyster Fritters,230Oysters for Patties, or Vols-au-vent,241Oysters, Canned, to Roast,116“ Spiced,116Clams,116Clams Cooked with Cream,116Clam Chowder,116“    “ Tunison,117“ Fritters,230“ Soup,117Crabs and Lobsters,117Crabs, Soft-shell,117“ Deviled,117Lobster, Deviled,118“ Chops,118“ a Good Way to Prepare,118Frogs, Fried,119SAUCES.Sauce, Drawn-butter,121“ Pickle,121“ Boiled-egg,121“ Caper,122“ Anchovy,122“ Shrimp,122“ Lobster,122“ Oyster,123“ Parsley,123“ Cauliflower,123“ Lemon,123“ Chicken,123“ Maître-d’hôtel,124“ Mint,124“ Currant-jelly,124“ Tomato (No. 1),124“ Tomato (No. 2),125“ Hollandaise, or Dutch Sauce,125Mushrooms, for Garnish,126Sauce, Mushroom,126“      “ White,126“      “ (Canned),127“ Bechamel (Simple),127“    “ ,127“ aux Fines Herbes,128“ Tartare,128“ Brown (Simple),128BEEF.Beef, to Roast or Bake,130Yorkshire Pudding,130Beef à la Mode,131“ Braised (No. 1),132Beef, Braised (No. 2),132“    “  with Horse-radish Sauce,133“ Fillet of,133Beef, Fillet of, to Trim,133“    “      to Cook,134“    “      to Garnish,135“    “      to Roast,135“    “      to Braise,136“    “      to Trim with Vegetables (à la Jardinière),136“    “      Cut into Slices or Scollops,137Beefsteak,137Beef, Corned,138“    “      to serve Cold,139Beefsteak Stewed,139“      Rolled,140Beef Roll (Cannelon de Bœuf),140What to do with Cold Cooked Beef,140Beef Hash,141Meat Pie,141“  Rissoles,142Beef or any Cold-meat Sausages,143Rice and Meat Cakes,143Beef Croquettes,143A Cheap Arrangement,144Mince-pies (made from Remnants of Cold Beef),144Pot-pie of Veal, Beef, or Chicken,144Calf’s Heart,144Tongue, with Sauce,145“    Slices, with Spinach and Sauce Tartare,145VEAL.Roast of Veal—the Fillet,146A Fricandeau of Veal,147Veal Cutlets, Broiled,147“  “      Sautéd and Fried,148“  “      Braised,148“  or Mutton Chops (en Papillote),148Blanquette of Veal,149Blind Hare,150Bewitched Veal,150Plain Veal Stew or Pot-pie,150To Cook Liver (No. 1),151“    (No. 2),151Calf’s Brains,151SWEET-BREADS.Sweet-breads Fried,152“          à la Milanaise,153“          Larded and Braised,153Sweet-breads Baked,154Sweet-bread Fritters,154“        Croquettes,154Skewer of Sweet-breads,155MUTTON.Leg of Mutton Boiled,156Mutton Cutlets,156Ragouts,156Another Ragout,157Sheep’s Tongues, with Spinach,158“          “  à la Mayonnaise,158“          “  with Sauce Tartare,158LAMB.Lamb, Leg of, Roasted,159“  Fore Quarter of, Roasted,159“  Chops,159Saddle of Lamb or Mutton,159Lamb Croquettes,160Sheep’s Kidneys,160PORK.To Cure Bacon,161Roast Little Pig,161Pork, Roast,161“  Cutlets, Broiled,162Pork and Beans,162Boston Baked Beans,162Entrée of Apples and Pork,163Sausages,163Hams, to Cure,163Ham, to Boil,164“ and Eggs,164“ to Fry or Sauté,164Pork Fried in Batter, or Egged and Bread-crumbed,164Breakfast-bacon Dish (Mrs. Trowbridge’s),164Rashers of Pork,165Sandwiches (No. 1),165“        (No. 2),165Small Rolls, with Salad Filling,165POULTRY.Turkey, Roast,166Stuffing for Baked Turkey, Chicken, Veal, and Lamb,167Stuffing for Roast Turkeys, Chickens, Ducks, and Geese,167Chestnut, Potato, Veal, and Oyster Stuffings,168Turkey, Boiled,168“    or Chicken Hash,168“    Braised,168“    Galantine, or Boned Turkey,169Mixed Spices for Seasoning,170Boned Turkey or Chicken (Simple),170Chickens,171Chickens, Spring,171“        “    Baked,172“  Roast and Boiled,172Chickens or Fish, Baked,172“ Fricassee of (No. 1),173“    “        (No. 2),174“ Ranaque,174Chicken Breasts,175“ Deviled, with Sauce,175“ Croquettes (No. 1),175“    “      (No. 2),176“ Cutlets,176“ with Macaroni or with Rice,177“ Chetney of,177“ Curry of,178“ for Supper,178To Fringe Celery for Garnishing,179Chicken Livers,179Turkish Pilau,179GEESE, DUCKS, AND GAME.Goose, Roast,180“ Stuffing,181Ducks,181“ Wild,181“ and Pease, Stewed,181“ Stewed,182“ Fillet of,182Poivrade Sauce,182Pigeons Stewed in Broth,182“ Roast,183“ Broiled,183Prairie-chicken or Grouse,183“ to Choose a Young,184“ or Grouse, Roasted,184Quails Parboiled and Baked,184“ Roasted,185Bread-sauce, for Game,185Cutlets of Quails or of Pigeons,185Scollops of Quails, with Truffles,186Espagnole Sauce,186Quails Broiled,187“ Braised,187Snipe and Woodcock Fried,187“ “ Roasted,187Reed-birds,188Plovers,188Pheasants,188Venison,188Venison, the Saddle of,188“ Haunch of, Roast or Baked,189“ Steaks, to Broil,189“ Stewed,189Rabbits Roasted,189“ Baked,190VEGETABLES.Vegetables, to Preserve the Color,190Potatoes Boiled (No. 1),190“    to Boil (No. 2),191“    Mashed,191“    à la Neige,192“    to Bake,192“    in Cases,192“    Baked with Beef,192“    à la Parisienne,193“    Saratoga,193“    Fried,194“    Lyonnaise,194Potato Croquettes,194“  Roses,195Potatoes for Breakfast,195Potato Puff,195Potatoes, Shoo-fly,195Turnips,195“  in Sauce,196Parsnips Sautéd,196Parsnip Fritters,196Oyster-plant Fritters,197Oyster-plants Stewed,197Carrots,197Beets,197Cauliflower, with White Sauce,197Cauliflowers, with Cheese,198Asparagus,198Pease,199Spinach,199Tomatoes, Stewed,200“    with Mayonnaise Sauce,226“    Stuffed and Baked,200Onions,201“    with Cream,201String-beans,201“    in Salad,226Lima Beans,201“    “  with Cream,202Celery, Fried,202Egg-plant,202Cabbage, to Boil,202“    Stewed,203Corn Boiled on the Cob,203“    Mock Oysters,203“    Custard, to be served as a Vegetable,203“    Pudding for Tea,204“    Grated, Sautéd,204Cranberries, to Cook,204Artichokes,204Apples, Fried, for Breakfast,204A Rice Dish (Risotto à la Milanaise),204Another Rice Dish,205Mushrooms in Crust (Croûte aux Champignons),205Flaxseed for a Centre-piece,205Casseroles,205SHELLS, OR COQUILLES.Chickens in Shells,206Oysters “ “,207Fish “ “,207Lobsters or Shrimps in Shells,207Mushrooms in Shells,207POTTING.Ham, Potted,208Tongue, “ ,208Beef, “ ,208Birds, Potted,208Fish, “ ,209Chicken, Tongue, or Ham, Potted,209MACARONI.Macaroni, with Cheese,209“      and Welsh Rare-bit,210“      with Sweet-breads,210Macaroni, with Tomato-sauce,210“      au Gratin,211Crackers, with Cheese,211EGGS.Eggs, Boiled,212“  Poached,212“      “    on Anchovy Toast,213


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