To bake, have the oven very hot. Before putting in the meat, sprinkle over pepper and salt, and dredge with flour. Pour a little boiling water into the pan before baking. Baste frequently.
To roast, have a bright fire. Hang the joint about eighteen inches from it at first, put a little clarified dripping into the dripping-pan, baste the meat with it when first prepared to cook, and every fifteen minutes afterward. Twenty minutes before the beef is done, sprinkle with pepper and salt, dredge with flour, baste with a little butter or dripping. Keep the fire bright, and turn the meat before it. It should be well browned and frothed. The cut, a rolled rib roast, with mashed potatoes.
Ingredients: Six large table-spoonfuls of flour, three eggs (well beaten), one salt-spoonful of salt, enough milk to make it of the consistency of soft custard (about one and a half pints).
Add enough milk to the flour and salt to make a smooth, stiff batter; add the eggs, and enough more milk to make it of the proper consistency. Beat all well together, pour it into a shallow pan (buttered); bake three-quarters of an hour.
Some empty the dripping-pan three-quarters of an hour before baked beef is done, and put the pudding into the empty pan, the beef on a three-cornered stand over it, that its juice may drop on the pudding. If beef is roasted, the pudding may be first baked in the oven, then placed under the beef for fifteen or twenty minutes, to catch any stray drops. It is as often served, though, baked in the oven in the ordinary way.
It is cut into squares and served on a hot plate, to be eaten with roast beef. It is a favorite English dish.
Six or seven pounds from a round of beef are generally selected; however, there is a cut from the shoulder which answers very well for anà-la-mode beef. If the round is used, extract the bone. Make several deep incisions into the meat with a thin sharp knife; press into most of them lardoons of pork about half an inch square, and two or three inches long; in the other cuts, and especially the one from whence the bone was extracted, stuff almost any kind of force-meat, the simplest being as follows: Mix some soaked bread with a little chopped beef-suet, onion, any herbs, such as parsley, thyme, or summer savory; a little egg, Cayenne pepper, salt, and cloves. Press the beef into shape, round or oval, and tie it securely.
Put trimmings of pork into the bottom of a large saucepan or iron pot, and when hot put over the meat; brown it all over by turning all sides to the bottom of the pot, which should now be uncovered. This will take about half an hour. Next sprinkle over a heaping table-spoonful of flour, and brown that also. Put a small plate under the beef, to prevent burning, and fill the pot with enough boiling water to half cover the meat; throw over a saucerful of sliced onions, carrots, some turnips, if you like, and some parsley. There are iron pots, with tight iron covers, which are made expressly for this kind of cooking; but if you have none of this description, you will now have to cover the one used with enough covers, towels, etc., to make it tight as possible, so that the meat may be cooked in the steam. Let it cook for four or five hours, never allowing the water to stop boiling. Watch it, that it may not get too low, and replenish it with boiling water. When the meat is done, put it on a hot platter; strain the gravy, skim off every particle of fat, add two or three table-spoonfuls of port or sherry wine, also pepper and salt, if necessary, and pour this gravy and selected pieces of the vegetables over the meat.
Baked onions (see page 201), placed around the beef as a garnish, complete the dish for a course at dinner.
Braised Beef(No. 1).—New York Cooking-school.
Ingredients: Six-pound loin of beef, half a pound of pork, three-fourths of a cupful of flour, two-ounce onion (one small onion), three-ounce carrot (half a large carrot), one-ounce turnip, one-third of a bunch of parsley, one sprig of thyme, two cloves, three allspice, six pepper-corns, half of a bay-leaf.
Trim the beef into a shapely piece; stick a knife quite through different portions of it, in which apertures press slices or lardoons of pork, half an inch square, and three or four inches long. Tie the beef into shape with twine. Lay scraps of pork on the bottom of a saucepan, place it on a brisk fire, and when hot put in the beef; brown it all over by turning the different sides to the bottom of the uncovered saucepan. It will take about half an hour to brown it. Now sprinkle over the beef three-fourths of a cupful of flour (three ounces), also the vegetables and spices; and brown all this by again turning the meat over the fire. When they are of fine color, pour over a tumblerful of claret, which reduce to half; then fill the saucepan with boiling stock or water; cover it tightly, and place it in a hot oven for two and a half hours. When done, put the beef on a hot platter.
Strain the sauce in which the beef was cooked, take off every particle of fat, season with more salt, if necessary; pour about half a cupful of it over the beef in the platter, and serve the remainder in a sauce-boat.
The beef may be surrounded with green pease, prepared as follows: Wash a can of American pease in cold water, then put them over the fire with half a cupful of boiling water, salt, pepper, one ounce of butter, and one salt-spoonful of sugar. When the pease have simmered a minute, strain them from their liquor, and place them in the platter around the beef.
The same cut which is used for anà-la-modebeef may be braised in the same manner as is described for a fillet of beef braised. This may be served with the gravy, as is there described, or with the addition of thejardinièreof vegetables.
Braise five pounds of fresh beef (not too lean), with an onion and a carrot sliced, two or three sprigs of parsley, four or five cloves, a little celery, if you have it, pepper, salt, and about a quart of boiling water. Cover it tightly, and let it cook about three hours, replenishing with a little boiling water, if the steam escapes too much.
Sauce.—Simmer together for quarter of an hour half a cupful of grated cracker, half a cupful of grated horse-radish, one cupful of cream, a table-spoonful of the fat from the top of the water in which the beef is cooked, salt, and pepper.
Place the beef on the platter in which it is to be served, and pour the sauce around it. Garnish with parsley.
I will be very specific about the fillet of beef, as it is easily managed at home, and is very expensive ordered from therestaurateur. His price is generally ten dollars for a dressed and cooked fillet of beef for a dinner for ten or twelve persons. To buy it from the butcher costs a dollar a pound when dressed; three pounds are quite sufficient for ten or twelve persons. To lard it (an affair of ten minutes) would cost ten cents more; a box of French canned mushrooms, an additional forty cents; a little stock, five cents.
One sees a fillet of beef at almost every dinner party. “That same fillet, with mushrooms,” a frequent diner-out will say. I hope to see it continued, for among the substantials there is nothing more satisfactory.
A good butcher will always deliver a fillet of beef already dressed; if, however, it is necessary to have it dressed at home, themodus operandiis as follows:
The fillet is the under side of the loin of beef. The steaks cut from this part are called porter-house-steaks. This under side, or fillet, is covered with skin and fat. “All the skin and fat must be removed from the top of the fillet, from one end to theother; then the rib-bones are disengaged. The fat adhering to the side opposite the ribs is only partially removed. Now the sinewy skin covering the upper meat of the fillet must be removed in strips, proceeding by slipping the blade of the knife between the skin and the meat. This operation is very simple; yet it requires great precision. The upper part of a trimmed fillet must be smooth,i. e., must not be furrowed by hollows occasioned by wrong movements of the knife. The skin being removed, both extremities of the fillet are rounded. The fat inside the rib is the only portion of fat allowed to adhere to the meat. The larding of the meat is applied to its upper surface.”
After it is trimmed and larded, put it into a small baking-pan, in the bottom of which are some chopped pieces of pork and beef-suet; sprinkle some salt and pepper over it, and put a large ladleful of hot stock into the bottom of the pan, or it may be simply basted with boiling water. Half an hour (if the oven is very hot, as it should be) before dinner, put it into the oven. Baste it often, supplying a little hot stock, if necessary.
French cooks often braise a fillet of beef. I do not like it as well as baking or roasting, as the vegetables and wine destroy the beef’s own flavor.
Take a ladleful of stock, free from grease, from the stock-pot; add to it part of the juice from the can of mushrooms; thicken it with a little flour and butter mixed (roux); add pepper, salt, and a few drops of lemon-juice; now add the mushrooms—let them simmer a few minutes. Pour the sauce over the fillet of beef, and serve.
At small dinner companies, where the host carves, or has a good carver, the fillet can be served entire, decorated as elaborately as one wishes. If, however, the dinneris served from the side, it is convenient to have it carved as shown in cut on preceding page. The centre of the fillet is disengaged, then carved, and returned to its place. It has then the appearance of being whole.
As I have mentioned before, a fillet of beef is generally served with mushrooms; sometimes with different vegetablesà la jardinière; sometimes with French pease; sometimes with potatoes cut into little round balls, and fried in boiling lard, called potatoesà la Parisienneon a French bill of fare; sometimes with stuffed tomatoes; sometimes skewers are put in stuck through a turnip carved into a cup, and this cup holds horse-radish. But some people say skewers remind them of steamboat cooking; then some people are not easily pleased, anyway; and who remembers of having seen so many skewers on steamboats, after all? Not that I am particularly advocating skewers, but I think dishestastebetter, as a general thing, when they are decorated in almost any manner. I once saw at a dinner in Paris hot slices of roast or baked fillet of beef, tastefully arranged on a platter, withsauce Hollandaise(rather thick) poured over each slice in the form of a ring. It was a success.
The manner of garnishing a fillet of beefà la Godardandà la Provençale, etc., with truffles,quenelles, livers, olives, etc., all stewed with wines, stocks, etc., I will not explain. It is enough to make one groan to think of learning to make them, and more than ever to eat them.
Lard it, and bind it carefully to the skewer with a smallwire; cover the fillet with sweet salad-oil and a little lemon-juice. Do not place it too near the fire at first, as it would scorch the larding. Baste it frequently.
A professional cook would glaze the fillet two or three times with a glazing-brush, beginning the first time about five minutes before taking it away from the fire, then glazing it again when it is on the dish to be served.
Glaze is merely strong stock boiled down until it is almost a thick jelly. When the fillet is carved at table, the little juice which falls into the dish should be poured over each of the slices.
Put the larded fillet into a braising-pan or stew-pan; put in trimmings of pork, onions (with some cloves stuck in), carrots, a little celery (all cut in thick slices), and a bunch of parsley. Salt the meat slightly. Pour in stock and white wine, so that it may reach to half the height of the beef. If a braising-pan is used, cover the meat with a well-buttered paper, as in that case live coals are put on top of the pan. If you use a stew-pan, simply cover it as tight as possible. Let it simmer, replenishing it, when necessary, with more boiling stock. It will require an hour or an hour and a half to cook. When done, drain it: a professional cook would glaze it. Put it into the oven a moment to dry the larding. Pass the cooking-stock through a sieve; skim off the fat; add some tomato sauce; let it boil until it is reduced to the degree requisite. Serve the fillet whole, or carved in slices ready to serve. Generally only the middle part of the fillet is used, as the whole fillet is quite large—weighing from eight to ten pounds.
Every kind of vegetable is used, such as potatoes, carrots, turnips, beets, small onions, cauliflower-blossoms, asparagus-heads, French beans, pease, etc. The larger vegetables are cut into little fancy shapes with a vegetable-cutter or a fluted knife, or with a little plain knife, into little balls, olives, squares, diamonds, or into any form to suit the taste. Each kind of vegetable should be boiled separately in salted water or stock. Thevegetables are piled into little groups, each pile being of one kind of vegetable.
This is a good way of managing the beef that is left from the roast or baked fillet of beef to be served the second day. Cut the fillet, after reheating it in the oven, into slices about three-fourths of an inch thick, and two inches wide. Form a circle in a dish by lapping each of these scollops partly over the other. Fill the centre with a tomato sauce, or potatoesà la Parisienne, or mushrooms, or with any of the small vegetables, such as pease, beans, little balls of carrots, potatoes, etc., in different little piles; or with truffles (they can be procured canned) sliced, with Madeira sauce; or with mushrooms and truffles mixed, with Madeira sauce.
The porter-house and tenderloin steaks are best. Of course, there is great difference in the different cuts of these steaks. For a cheap steak, a good cut of what is called chuck-steak is best. It has more flavor and juice, and is more tender than the round-steak, costing the same price.
Have the choice steaks cut half an inch thick at least; they are even better three-quarters of an inch thick. Grease the gridiron well with pork or beef-suet. Have it quite hot. Put on the steak over a hot, clear fire; cover it with a baking-pan. In a moment, when the steak is colored, turn it over. Watch it constantly, turning it whenever it gets a little brown. Do not stick the fork into the middle of the steak, only into the sides,where it will do least harm by letting out the juice. It should be quite rare or pink in the centre, though notraw. When cooked enough, put it on a hot platter; sprinkle over plenty of salt and pepper—mind not to put on the salt and pepper before the steak is cooked; then spread over the top some sweet, fresh butter. Set the platter in the oven a few moments, to let the butter soak a little in the steak; then serve it immediately. Do not use too much butter; there should be none at all, or at least only a few stray drops, in the bottom of the platter. There should be no gravy. The juice of a properly cooked steak is supposed to be in the inside of the steak, and not swimming in the dish.
A steak is much improved by a simple addition, called by professional cooksà la maître d’hôtel.
When the steak is cooked, it is placed on the hot platter. First, then, salt and pepper are sprinkled over; then comes a sprinkling of very finely chopped parsley; then some drops of lemon-juice; lastly, small pieces of butter are carefully spread over. Place the steak into the oven for a few moments until the butter is well melted and soaked into the steak.
For extra-company breakfasts, only the fillets,i. e., the tender parts of the porter-house or tenderloin steaks, are used. They are cut into little even shapes, round or oval, one for each plate. They are cooked, then served in a hot dish, surrounded with Saratoga potatoes, or fried potatoes in any form, or with water-cresses, or with mushrooms, or stuffed tomatoes, or green pease, etc.
A good piece of beef well corned, then well boiled, is a most excellent dish.
Put it into the pot with enough cold water to just cover it. When it comes to a boil, set it on the back of the range, so that it will boil moderately. Too fast boiling renders meat tough, yet the water should never be allowed to cease boiling until the meat is done; skim often. Let it boil at least four or five hours, according to its size. It must be thoroughly done. In England, where this dish is an especial favorite, carrots are always boiled and served with the beef. The carrotflavor improves the meat, and the meat improves the carrot. Do not put the carrots into the pot, however, until there is only time for them to become thoroughly cooked before serving (about three-quarters of an hour). Serve the carrots around the beef.
In America, cabbage is oftener boiled with corned beef. This is very nice also. If cabbage is used, add at the same time one or two little red peppers. When about to serve, press out all the water from the cabbage, adding little pieces of butter. Serve the meat placed in the centre of the cabbage.
Little pickles are a pretty garnish for corned beef, with or without the vegetables.
If it is too salt, soak it for an hour in cold water, then put it over the fire, covered with fresh cold water, four or five cloves (for about six pounds of beef), and three table-spoonfuls of molasses. Boil it slowly. In an hour change the water, adding five more cloves and three more table-spoonfuls of molasses. In two hours more, press the beef, after removing the bones, into a basin rather small for it; then, turning it over, place a flat-iron on top. When entirely cold, the beef is to be sliced for lunch or tea.
Never use a choice steak for a stew. Stewing is only a good way of cooking an inferior steak. The meat from a soup-bone would make a very good stew.
Put ripe tomatoes (peeled and cut) into a stew-pan; sprinkle over pepper and salt. Let them cook a little to make some juice; put in the pieces of beef, some little pieces of butter mixed with flour, two or three cloves, and no water. Let it stew until the meat is quite done. Then press the tomatoes through a sieve. Serve all on the same dish.
Procure a round steak, spread over it a layer of almost any kind of force-meat. An ordinary bread, onion, thyme, or parsley dressing, used to stuff turkeys, is very good. Begin, then, at one end of the steak, and roll it carefully; tie the roll to keep it in shape. Bake it in the oven as you would a turkey, basting very often. Make a gravy of the drippings, adding water, flour, and a little butter mixed; season with pepper and salt, strain, skim off the fat, and pour it around the meat when served. Slice it neatly off the end when carving.
Chop two pounds of lean beef very fine; chop and pound in a mortar half a pound of fat bacon, and mix it with the beef. Season it with pepper and salt (it will not require much salt), a small nutmeg, the grated rind of a lemon, the juice of a quarter of it, a heaping table-spoonful of parsley minced fine; or it can be seasoned with an additional table-spoonful of onion; or, if no onion or parsley is at hand, with summer savory and thyme. Bind all these together with two eggs. Form them into a roll; surround the roll with buttered paper, which tie securely around it. Then cover it with a paste made of flour and water. Bake two hours. Remove the paper and crust. Serve it hot, with tomato-sauce or brown gravy. This may be made with raw or under-dressed meat. If the meat is not raw, but under-dressed, surround the roll with pie-crust. Bake, and serve with tomato-sauce, or any of the brown sauces, poured in the bottom of the dish. Potatocroquettesmay be served around it.
There is a good-sized book written on this subject. When there are about two hundred ways of utilizing cold cookedbeef, one should not regard it contemptuously. I studied this treatise, and practiced from it, but soon considered the few old ways the best, after all.Croquettesare very good, and there are beef-sausages, or cakes, seasoned in different ways; beef rolls, meat pies, and mince-pies, made from a few scraps of cold cooked beef, are all exceedingly nice when properly made.
Notwithstanding this distinguished dish is so much abused, I particularly like it; not swimming hash, nor onion hash, nor Southern or Western hash, nor yet hash half cooked, but New York hash. I know a New York family who set a most expensive and elaborate table, which table is especially noted for its good hash. Large joints are purchased with special reference to this dish. Cold corned beef is generally considered best. The hash to which I have referred, however, is generally made of cold roast beef.
Chop the cold cooked meat rather fine; use half as much meat as of boiled potatoes (chopped when cold). Put a little boiling water and butter into an iron saucepan; when it boils again, put in the meat and potatoes well salted and peppered. Let it cook well, stirring it occasionally—not enough to make apuréeor mush of it. It is not done before there is a coating at the bottom of the saucepan, from which the hash will free itself without sticking. The hash must not be at all watery, nor yet too dry, but so that it will stand quite firm on well-trimmed and buttered slices of toast, and to be thus served on a platter.Voilà!
Chicken or turkey hash should be made in the same way.
Cut cold cooked meat into quite small dice; add pepper, salt, a little nutmeg, and two or three sprigs of chopped parsley; also a little thyme and a piece of bay-leaf, if you have them, but the two latter herbs may be omitted. Put a little butter into a saucepan, and when hot throw in a table-spoonful of flour, which brown carefully; pour in then several table-spoonfuls of hot water, or, better, stock; mix well; then introduce the meat dice; stir all well over the fire, cooking it thoroughly. Just before taking it up, mix in one or two eggs. It should be quite moist, yet consistent. Put a thin pie-crust into a pudding-dish. Fill in a few table-spoonfuls of the mixture; then lay on it a thin strip of bacon; continue these layers until the dish is filled. Now fit a piece of crust over the top; turn the edges in a fancy manner, and make a cut in the centre. Take a strip of pie-paste, form it into a tie or knot, wet the bottom, and place it over the cut in the centre of the pie, so as not to obstruct the opening.
The proper way to make a meat pie is with a pie-mold (see page 58). Butter the mold, press the crust neatly around in the inside and bottom, and continue, as explained for the pudding-dish. When baked, the wire holding the sides of the mold is drawn out, and the mold removed from the pie. This pie can be made with veal or lamb, in the same manner.
Forrissoles, cold beef, chicken, veal, tongue, or lamb may be used, separately or mixed. The meat should not be chopped, but cut into quite small dice. It is well to add to it a slight flavoring of chopped pork, and a little finely chopped parsley. As the meat can be prepared in different ways, the addition of a superfluous mushroom or two, cut into dice, would not be amiss.
Put a small piece of butter, size of a pigeon’s egg, into a saucepan, and when it begins to boil add a heaping tea-spoonful of flour; stir for a minute to cook the flour, then add three or four table-spoonfuls of boiling water, or, what is much better, stock, gravy, or brown or white sauce if you happen to have it; when well mixed, add about two cupfuls of the meat dice, heat well, and just before taking from the fire stir in an egg.
The scraps of puff-paste are generally preferred, yet any kind of pie-paste may be used forrissoles. Roll the paste quite thin (one-sixth of an inch); wet it about three inches from the edge, and place upon it little balls (a generous tea-spoonful in each one) of the prepared meat, at distances of four inchesapart; now lap over the edge of the paste, quite covering the balls of meat; press the side of the hand between each one, and, with the edge of a tumbler or muffin-ring, press the paste close to the meat; with a biscuit-cutter (scolloped one prettier) cut out each enveloped ball of meat into half circles. Now cut off the rough edges of the remaining paste, and proceed to make other rows of therissolesin the same manner. With a brush wet all the tops with the yolk of an egg. Bake therissolesin a hot oven, and serve them hot on a folded napkin. If they get cold, they may be reheated just before serving.
Chop cold cooked beef very fine; add a fifth as much pork, also chopped fine; pepper, salt, a little sage, or any herbs preferred, lemon-juice, and a few sprinkles of flour; mix all together with an egg, or eggs; form into little balls, fry in butter or lard in asautépan. These sausages are good for breakfast served around a centre of apple-sauce. Or,
For Rice and Meat Cakes,
make as in last receipt, adding a very little butter. Stir in a quarter or half of its quantity of boiled rice; or, on another occasion, bread-crumbs may be substituted for rice.
There is no more satisfactory manner of using cold cooked beef than forcroquettes, which may be served with tomato or any of the brown sauces, or may be served without sauce at all, as is generally the case. They are made in the same manner as is described for chickencroquettes(see page 175), merely substituting the same amount of beef for the chicken, and of rice for the brains.
Purchase two soup bones (twenty cents). Boil them four or five hours with a few vegetables (as described for stock,see page 79). The stock will make two or three soups. Cut up the meat forcroquettes. Of course thecroquettesare better made with the best of meat, yet may be excellent when made of the soup meat.
A good disposition in winter of cold roast beef is to make with it two or three mince-pies, as by the following receipt: One cupful of chopped meat (quarter of it fat), two cupfuls of apple, one tea-spoonful of salt, one table-spoonful of ground allspice, half a table-spoonful of ground cinnamon, half a table-spoonful of ground cloves, one cupful of sugar, half a cupful of raisins, half a cupful of currants, one cupful of cider; or, if one has no cider, use the same amount of cider-vinegar and water mixed—say half of each.
Cut the meat into pieces, and put them into enough boiling water to cover them well; add also two or three strips of pork. Cover the pot closely. Boil an hour, then season with pepper and salt to taste, and a little piece of butter.
Just before taking out the ingredients of the pot to send to table, put into it, when the water is boiling, separate spoonfuls of batter made with two eggs well beaten, two and a half or three cupfuls of buttermilk, one tea-spoonful of soda, and sufficient flour. The batter should be made just before it is cooked. It takes about three or four minutes to cook it, the water not to be allowed to stop boiling. The dish should then be served immediately, or the dumplings will become heavy.
If people generally knew how nice a calf’s heart is, if properly cooked, the butchers would never charge so little as ten cents for it. In France, the calf’s heart and kidneys areconsidered great delicacies. In America they are often thrown away.
Merely wash off the blood. One could, by soaking, extract all the flavor from the heart. Stuff it with a veal force-meat stuffing, or a common stuffing, often used for turkeys, of bread-crumbs, onion, a little thyme or sage, egg, pepper, and salt. Tie a buttered paper over the mouth of the heart to keep the stuffing in place. Put it into a small baking-pan with a little hot water, pepper, and salt. Bake nearly two hours, basting it very frequently. When done, thicken the gravy with flour; strain, skim, and season it, and pour it on the dish around the heart. Garnish the plate with onions, first boiled until nearly done, then seasoned with pepper, salt, and a little butter, and browned in the oven.
Cut boiled tongue into slices; fry them in a little hot butter, with a sprinkle of minced onion thrown in. Then, for the sauce, take out the slices of tongue; put in a tea-spoonful of flour, and when brown, a tea-cupful of hot water. When done, strain, and season with salt and pepper; add a table-spoonful of chopped pickles (piccalilli is best); however, common cucumber pickles may be used, with a little mustard added; or the sauce may be flavored with capers, or with both capers and pickles. Let the slices of tongue soak in the sauce until ready to serve, then arrange the slices of tongue on a platter, one lapped over the other, and pour over the sauce. A beef tongue may be braised, and served with spinach orsauce Tartare, as described for sheep’s tongues.
Braise the tongue as described for sheep’s tongues (see page158): arrange a circle of the slices around a platter, and on each slice smooth a little hill (enough for one person) of spinach prepared as described in the same receipt for “sheep’s tongues with spinach.” Put either a spoonful ofsauce Tartareor a slice of lemon into or on the top of each spinach-mold. This makes a nice lunch or dinner dish.
Thebest pieces of veal are the loin and the fillet. A variety of dishes can be made with veal cutlets and their different accompaniments. Veal is always better cooked with pork or ham. Professional cooks generally trim and lard their veal cutlets, serving them with tomato-sauce, pease, beans, breakfast bacon, lemon-slices, cucumbers, etc. For a cheap dish, one of the most satisfactory is a knuckle of veal made into a ragout, or pot-pie. Any of the inferior cuts may be made into ablanquette.
Africandeauof veal is perhaps considered the most distinguished veal dish. I would always advise the trimming of veal cutlets. It gives little trouble, but the appearance is much improved, and the trimmings should be thrown into the stock-pot. Veal should always be thoroughly cooked.
Take out the bone of the joint; make a deep incision between the fillet and the flap; then fill it with stuffing made as follows: Two cupfuls of bread-crumbs, half a cupful of chopped pork, half a lemon-peel grated, a little juice, thyme, summer savory, or any herbs to taste; or it may be filled with a veal stuffing (see page 167). Bind the veal into a round form, fasten it with skewers and twine, sprinkle over pepper and salt, and cover it with buttered paper. Be careful not to put the meat too near the fire at first. Baste well and often. Just before it is done, remove the paper, sprinkle over a little flour, and rub over it a little butter. This will give a frothy appearance to the surface of the meat. When done, put the pan of gravy on the fire; add a little flour, some boiling water, and, when cooked, some lemon-juice. Strain it, remove the grease, and pour it around the roast. Fry some pieces of ham cut in diamond shape; place these in a circle around the roast, each piece alternated with a slice of lemon.
What is called africandeauof veal is simply a cushion of veal trimmed into shape, larded, and braised. Cut a thick slice (three or four pounds) from a fillet of veal, trim it around as in cut for “blind hare” (see page 150), and lard it on top. Put some pieces of pork into a braising-kettle, or saucepan, if you have no braising-kettle; also slices of carrot, an onion with cloves stuck in, a stick of celery, and some parsley. Put in the meat, sprinkle over pepper and salt, and cover it with well-buttered paper. Now fill the pan with boiling stock, or water enough to just cover the meat. Put on a tight lid. If it is a braising-pan, set it upon the fire, with live coals on top. If a common saucepan, cover it, and put it into a hot oven.
It will take about two hours, or two hours and a half, to cook it. A professional cook would boil down the stock in which thefricandeauwas cooked until reduced to a glaze, then with a brush would glaze all the top of the meat, placing it in the oven a moment to dry. However, it tastes as well without this extra trouble.
The best sauce for africandeauis a tomato-sauce. It is as often garnished with green pease, spinach, or sorrel; or a little wine (Madeira, port, or sherry) androux(see page 51) may be added to the braising-stock for a gravy. The gravy should be strained, of course.
The rib cutlets should always be neatly trimmed, the bone scraped at the end, so that it will look smooth and white. Broil them on a moderate fire, basting them occasionally with butter, and turning them often. Dish them in a circle with tomato-sauce.
These are cutlets cut from the round, although any veal cutlets may be cooked in the same way. Cut them into equal-sized pieces, beat them a little with a knife to get them into shape; season, egg, and bread-crumb them. Now, fry in asautépan, or rathersautésome thin slices of ham in a little hot lard, and when done take them out on a hot dish; fry slowly the cutlets in the same fat, and when done pour out some of the fat, if there is more than a tea-spoonful; add a little flour, then a little hot water, and, when cooked a few moments, season it well with lemon-juice, adding pepper and salt to taste; then strain it. Serve the cutlets in the centre of a dish, with the gravy poured over; and place alternate slices of the ham and lemon in a circle around them.
They are also very goodsautédin a little lard, and served with a cream gravy poured over; or they are nice egged (with a little chopped parsley and onion mixed with the egg), and bread-crumbed, and fried in hot lard.
Professional cooks usually braise veal cutlets. They lard them (an easy matter) all on the same side, the flavor of pork particularly well suiting veal. To proceed then: Mince some onions and carrots; put them in the bottom of a stew-pan; put the cutlets on this layer; cover well with stock (add wine if you choose), and let them cook until thoroughly done.
If you wish to be particular, boil down the stock and glaze them; or make a gravy of the stock with flour,roux, pepper and salt, and strain it; or serve them with tomato-sauce; or make a little round hill of mashed potatoes, and put the cutlets around; or serve with them, instead, beans, pease, or flowerets of cauliflowers.
Trim the chops; broil them in the usual way over the coals, and when done place each one in a paper (well buttered) cut in the form of Fig. 1; pour over each chop a sauce made as
follows: For three cutlets thicken a cupful of strong broth with equal quantities of either cold cooked chicken, lamb, or veal, and mushrooms (the mushrooms are a great improvement to the dish, yet they may be omitted if more convenient) with a quarter proportion of cold boiled ham added, and also one or two sprigs of parsley, all chopped very fine. Pour this hot over the hot cutlets; place avery thinslice of fat salt pork over each cutlet;[B]fasten the paper as in Fig. 2, and place them in a hot oven for about ten minutes. Serveimmediatelywhile the chops are steaming hot.
Cut any kind of veal (say two pounds) into pieces; put it into boiling water, with a little bulb of garlic or slice of onion, and when done throw the meat from the boiling water into cold water, to whiten it. This is the rule, but I usually dispense with it. Make a drawn butter sauce,i. e., put butter the size of an egg into a saucepan, and when it bubbles mix in a table-spoonful of flour, which cook a minute, without letting it color; add then two cupfuls of boiling water and a little nutmeg. When the veal is done, drain it from the water, and let it simmer several minutes in the sauce, adding at the same time a sprig of parsley chopped fine. When just ready to serve, place the pieces of meat on a hot platter; stir the yolks of threeeggs into the sauce without allowing them to boil; also several drops, or a seasoning, of lemon-juice. Pour the sauce over the veal, and serve.
Ingredients: Three pounds of minced veal, three pounds of minced beef, eight eggs well beaten, three stale rolls, or the same amount of bread-crumbs, pepper, salt, two grated nutmegs, a heaping table-spoonful of ground cinnamon. Mix all well together. Form it into an oval-shaped loaf, smooth it, and sprinkle bread or cracker crumbs over the top. Bake it in a moderate oven about three hours. It is to be sliced when cold.
Ingredients: Three pounds of lean veal, half a pound of fat salt pork, one nutmeg grated, one small onion, butter the size of an egg, a little red pepper, and salt.
Chop all very fine, and mix them together, with three eggs well beaten, and a tea-cupful of milk; form it into a small loaf, pressing it very firmly; cover it with fine bread-crumbs; bake two hours and a half. It is intended to be eaten cold, yet is very good hot. The slices may be served in a circle around salad.
Cut the meat from a knuckle of veal into pieces not too small; put them into a pot with some small pieces of salt pork, and plenty of pepper and salt; pour over enough hot water to cover it well, and let it boil until the meat isthoroughlydone; then, while the water is still boiling, drop in (by the spoonful) a batter made with the following ingredients: Two eggs well beaten, two and a half or three cupfuls of buttermilk, one even tea-spoonful of soda, and flour enough to make a thick batter. Cover the pot, and as soon as the batter is well cooked, serve it. By standing, it becomes heavy.
To Cook Liver(Melanie Lourant), No. 1.
Put a little lard into a saucepan, and when hot throw in half an onion minced fine, one or two sprigs of parsley, chopped, and the slices of calf’s liver. Turn the liver several times, allowing it to cook well and imbibe the taste of the onion and parsley. When cooked, place it at the side of the fire. In another saucepan make a sauce as follows: Put in a piece of butter size of a large hickory-nut, and when it bubbles sprinkle in a heaping tea-spoonful of flour; stir it until it assumes a fine brown color, then pour in a cupful of boiling water, stirring it well with the egg-whisk; add pepper, salt, a table-spoonful of vinegar, and a heaping table-spoonful of capers. The sauce is very nice without the capers, but very much improved with them. Drain out the slices of liver, which put into the sauce, and let them remain at the side of the fire until ready to serve. Chopped pickle may be substituted for the capers, and stock may be used instead of the boiling water.
Fry in asautépan some thin slices of breakfast bacon, and when done put them on a hot dish; fry then thin slices of liver in the same fat, which have previously been thrown into boiling water for only amoment, and then been sprinkled with flour. When well done on both sides, serve them and the bacon on the same dish, and garnish them with slices of lemon.
Before cooking, remove the fibrous membranes around them. Throw them into a pint of cold water, in which are mixed half a tea-spoonful of salt and one tea-spoonful of vinegar; boil them three minutes, then plunge them into cold water. When cold and about to be served, cut them into scollops; and when seasoned with pepper and salt, egged, and bread-crumbed,sautéthem in a little hot butter. Serve with tomato-sauce. Or they may be served withspighetti(a small macaroni) cooked with tomato-sauce (see page 210), and placed around them, when they are called brainsà la Milanaise.
Vealsweet-breads are best. They spoil very soon. The moment they come from market, they should be put into cold water, to soak for about an hour; lard them, or rather draw a lardoon of pork through the centre of each sweet-bread, and put them into salted boiling water, or, better, stock, and let them boil about twenty minutes, or until they are thoroughly done; throw them then into cold water for only a few moments. They will now be firm and white. Remove carefully the skin and little pipes, and put them in the coolest place until ready to cook again. The simplest way to cook them is the best one, as follows: