CHAPTER II.
Description of Merida, Geographical and Historical—The City—Public Squares—The Market—Trade—Habits and Customs—Health—The Public Buildings—A way to get a Husband—New Year Eve—New Year Day—The City and Environs—A Touch of Music—A Country Seat—Congress of Yucatan—Franciscan Ruins—More Holy-days—Cock-fighting—A Drill—The Bishop at Home—The College—Miracles.
Merida, the capital of Yucatan, is situated about the twenty-first degree of north latitude, and is elevated some twenty-five feet above the level of the sea. The thermometer ranges at about eighty of Fahrenheit, and the maximum length of the days is nearly thirteen hours. The city was built upon the ruins of an Indian town, which was destroyed by the Spaniards in their superstitious zeal, so madly manifested in the destruction of every thing throughout Mexico that was found belonging to the people whom they had conquered. The present population is calculated at twenty thousand, the majority of whom are Indians and half-breeds.
The city was founded in 1542. From the few scattered facts which have been handed down to us by history, we gather that, prior to the Spanish conquest, there existed in Yucatan a people of an origin remote and unknown, who were under the subjectionof rulers, with fixed principles of law and order; had passed through the ordinary vicissitudes of nations, and finished their career by losing, at once, their liberty and their dominions. The triumphant forces of the Spaniards having obtained full possession of the country, the Church came in to execute its part; and their language, manners, customs, and religion, were disseminated by the steady and persevering arm of Catholic power and management. To complete the work, every thing that had a tendency to remind the vanquished of the past was obliterated, in accordance with the grovelling policy or the blind fanaticism that marked the times. Ancient pictorial and hieroglyphical manuscripts were burnt; their idols, images, and planispheres, were destroyed, and their temples and cities were razed to the ground. It is melancholy to reflect that a chasm has thus been made in the early history of the country, which the historian must despair of ever seeing filled up.
Merida, since it was rebuilt, has not rendered itself in anywise historical. Its remote and isolated position has prevented its participation, to any extent, in the political struggles which have marked the history of the city of Mexico; and the inhabitants appear to have availed themselves of their peace and political composure by a cultivation of letters, and general mental cultivation, to an extent certainly unsurpassed in any province of Mexico.
The streets of Merida are of a good width, laid out at right angles. The side-walks are four feetwide, paved with rough stone. The houses are quite uniform in their appearance, and are built of stone. The mason-work is creditable. The roofs of their houses are flat, and their exteriors finished in stucco; some of which are painted in the Moorish style, with balconied windows, ornamented, and presenting rather a pretty appearance. The middle of the street is the lowest, forming a passage to carry off the water. During ordinary rains, small rivers, comparatively speaking, form themselves; flooding the streets to the edge of the walks, and rendering them impassable for hours after the rain has ceased, without great exposure. Candles are used for lighting the city; but, of course, for that purpose, are almost useless.
This place contains a number of fine squares, the principal of which is in the centre of the city. It is bounded by the cathedral, bishop’s palace, government house, and dwellings occupied by the citizens. In the middle of this square is awaterless fountain. No attention is paid to this place, which might justly be compared, from its deserted aspect, to the “Neutral Ground” in New Orleans; and, like that, it is susceptible of being rendered a most beautiful promenade. On the side of this square is the dwelling of Simon Peon, Esq. The front is ornamented with a relic of the times prior to the conquest. It is a huge door-way, elaborately carved in figures and lines. The city is indebted to this gentleman for this display of his liberality and taste, in preserving a very interesting memento of a people whose history,probably, is destined to remain for ever sealed to mankind.
The market occupies a large square, in a central position, having two sides devoted to the sale of meats, and the other two remaining open. The interior is provided with accommodations for the venders of fruits and vegetables. The meats are of an indifferent quality; they are cut up and sold by the butcher in long strips. Their variety of vegetables is limited, and but little skill is shown in their cultivation. Poultry is abundant and cheap, as are also the othernecessariesof life.
There is but a very limited trade here, of any kind. The resources of the country are too small for it to be otherwise. To give some idea of the state of trade in the vicinity of the great public square, just described, it is sufficient to state that, in crossing it, we have disturbed the buzzard and killdeer at noonday.
At three o’clock in the afternoon, there is an almost total suspension of business. The stores, generally, are closed, and the inhabitants betake themselves to their hammocks, to the enjoyment of their favorite siesta, which consists of a nap of an hour or more; an indulgence as indispensable to a Mexican as his cigar. The calesa is the only wheel-carriage that is to be found in the streets. Indian porters take the place of drays, and are seen carrying barrels and bales upon their backs, secured by a plaited rope passed over their foreheads. Being accustomed, from childhood, to this kind of labor,they are enabled to take loads of extraordinary weight, and to convey them to a great distance with an ease that is really wonderful.
The climate of Merida, though very dry, and not subject to great changes, is productive of febrile diseases at all seasons of the year, from which even the natives are not exempted. Their bilious, much resembles the yellow fever; and, in many cases, proves fatal. The fever and ague is no stranger here. Pulmonary complaints are common, and consumption carries off many. This malady most frequently shows itself after severe attacks of the fever and ague, and makes a conquest of its victim in a very short period.
The principal, as well as the most prominent, of the public buildings, are the churches. The cathedral is a structure that would attract the attention of the traveller in any part of the world. It was erected in the sixteenth century. Its architecture is of the ecclesiastical style of that age; and, altogether, it has a most commanding appearance. It has well-proportioned domes, pinnacles, turrets, and lofty windows; and it occupies, with the palace of the bishop of Yucatan, one entire side of the most important square of the city. The interior is imposing, from its numerous and splendidly decorated shrines. Its vaulted roof, supported by immense stone pillars, gives it an air of solemn grandeur peculiarly applicable to the ceremonies that are daily performed within its precincts. The arms of Mexico are displayed upon the exterior front of the building,which is finished with stone and stucco, with saints in basso-relievo.
The bishop’s palace, adjoining, is plain. It is of two stories high, painted green; and is accessible by a gateway opening into a court, over which are emblazoned the crosier and mitre. The doors and windows are much dilapidated. The title of a palace is somewhat of a misnomer for this edifice, if one were to judge from its external appearance.
There are fourteen church establishments within the city and its suburbs; they, generally, are well built; and many of them are remarkable for the power and influence of their particular saints—in popular estimation. For instance, that of St. Anne is one which the ladies frequent, to pray for good husbands. Whether the gentlemen go there to ask for similar blessings, I did not learn; but I was informed through a source that it would be impolite to doubt, that, in many instances, the petition of the lonely spinster has been most favorably received. In this church is a large collection of bone and wax figures, representing the various limbs of the human body; as, also, crutches, left there by invalids as offerings to the tutelar saint (St. Barbe) who has favorably heard their supplications. Models of vessels are deposited here by those who have been preserved from imminent danger at sea, through, as the devotees suppose, the efficacy of their appeals and sacrifices to the saint.
We observed, on entering the church, parts of a human skeleton set near the vase of holy water; putthere, possibly, that all might see and be reminded that “to this condition we must come at last!” Whether the priests intended that they should convey a moral, as did those in use among the ancient Egyptians, or placed them there for other purposes, could not conveniently be ascertained. Be that as it may, they have an imposing effect. The taste generally displayed in these churches is not very pleasing to the eye of a stranger. The images of our Saviour are rude figures, and what made them appear still worse was, that they were decorated according to the prevailing fashion of the country; a style which was calculated to awaken any other than reverential emotions.
New Year’s eve found me on the Alameda, (the promenade of the city,) where I mingled with the multitude which had collected to enjoy the pleasantness of the evening at this, the most delightful season of the year in Yucatan.
On the morning of New Year, 1842, I went early to the cathedral. Dense masses of Indians, principally females, in their plain cleanly dress, tastefully arranged, were assembled around the different shrines at which the priests were officiating. When I returned to breakfast, I met my fellow-companions of the house at table; but there were none of those outpourings of good feelings, those kind wishes of happiness that, in former days, were wont to meet me in the land of my birth. For one hearty greeting of “a happy New Year!” I would have given for the sake of “auld lang syne,” most cheerfullywould I have given—“a thousand returns!” But “New Year’s,” alas! is no festival day of the heart in Merida.
The day was dull throughout. After the services of the church were finished, about nine o’clock, the streets were quite deserted. I then visited the Indians in the suburbs. Their simple huts were comfortable, so far as mud and stone could make them, and tolerably clean. Their furniture is composed of nothing more than a few earthen vessels, calabashes, and hammocks swung across the room. The walls of some of them were ornamented with rude wooden crosses; and, occasionally, pictures of saints in tin frames.
The environs of the city present but few pleasant walks. In fact they are not required, for the inhabitants have not a taste for pedestrian exercises, and scarcely ever walk when they can enjoy any less fatiguing mode of locomotion. The practice of riding in the calesa is almost universal. The ladies, especially, are extremely partial to it; and having an uncouth gait, they thus appear to the best possible advantage. Thus mounted and armed with their fan, (that indispensable appendage to a Mexican lady,) they go forth fully equipped with fascinations, conquering and to conquer. Their rides are wholly confined to the streets, as the scenery in the vicinity of Merida offers few inducements to the equestrian, while the roads constitute a special annoyance. As to the cultivation of the soil, nature has been left to perform the whole task, almost entirely unaidedeither by art or industry. Surely, thrift is not indigenous to this country. The tropical trees and plants put forth their blossoms, and the rich perfumes fill the air with their balmy sweets. But there is a chilling contrast between the loveliness of vegetable nature about me, and the condition of man, to whose care it is intrusted. We never have admired the one without wishing that we had the power to exalt the other to a position equally worthy of the hand that made it.
We reached our lodgings in season to hear a Mexican disquisition on cock-fighting, before the commencement of a “grand concert,” that was to take place in the evening, and to which we had been favored with an invitation. Theéliteof the city were to be present, and no small gratification was anticipated. It took place in a long hall kept for this and other public purposes. The music was instrumental—and the performers consisted principally of amateurs. It was a matter of surprise and disappointment to find that only seventeen ladies and ten gentlemen constituted the audience. It was odd to us, to see the fairer part of the assembly set apart from the gentlemen; an arrangement which, if we are not deceived, gave no more satisfaction to the ladies than to the gentlemen. The former were quite pretty, and their dress exceedingly neat; the arrangements of the head in particular exhibited very good taste.
On the following day I made a visit to a gentleman’s country place, situated about two miles fromthe city. It was a beautiful morning. Under the smiles of a rising sun and a cloudless sky nature appeared to be embellished in all her charms. After a very agreeable walk I arrived at the house; but was disappointed in finding the owner at home. A few Indians were hanging listlessly about the premises, under the charge of a major domo, whose situation was manifestly quite a sinecure. The mansion was of two stories with piazzas, large, and well built of stone; but had nothing very peculiar in its construction. The grounds about it were neatly and tastefully arranged. The division alleys of the garden were laid with stone, covered with composition, ornamentally disposed, and answering the two-fold purpose of a walk and a gutter to conduct the water to the parts where it was required. The orange, the cocoa, the plantain, and the wide-spread banana, were loaded with fruit. Clusters of smaller tropical shrubbery, and myriads of flowers, were in perfection. The enclosures teemed with vegetation, growing in unrestricted luxuriance. This vegetation is only sustained by the aid of irrigation. The water is supplied from immense wells and cisterns, which are opened in large numbers for that purpose. This practice was originally introduced into Spain by the Moors, who thus changed quite barren wastes into productive gardens. Even the courses of rivers were sometimes diverted to effect this important object. Many of the provinces of the parent country, although since suffered by neglect to revert to their former uselessness, bear evidence of the importantbenefits that resulted from the system. The conquerors of Mexico were aware of its advantages, of which they availed themselves extensively in their agricultural pursuits. These reservoirs are frequently made through a calcareous formation, to the depth of a hundred feet, and are supplied with water both from fountains and from the rains of summer. Broad curbs of stone and mortar are formed around them, from eight to ten feet high, which are used as platforms for drawing up the water by means of revolving buckets, turned by a spindle, and emptying, in their evolutions, into conductors leading to reservoirs located near the place where it may afterwards be wanted. Ascending to the balcony of the building, I had a partial view of the city, embosomed among trees, with its domes and turrets peering above their tops. After acknowledging the hospitality with which I had been received, I made my adieus, and returned at an early hour to the city.
The Congress of Yucatan is now in session. It is held in two rooms, connected with each other by double doors. These rooms are neatly and plainly fitted up for the purpose, having a small gallery or platform at the sides, for the accommodation of spectators. These apartments comprise a portion of a convent once belonging to the Jesuits, who formerly exercised a powerful sway in this province. In 1825 their property was confiscated to the government; when this and other orders of monasteries and nunneries were dissolved by the prevailing voice of the people. Small remains now only exist of this oncepotent and dreaded class. The whole building, with the exception of the part mentioned, and the church, is in a ruinous condition, with broken walls and ragged casements. Birds of prey, fluttering about and resting upon the trees that overtop the seat of this once proud, but now fallen society, present a lesson that others of a similar cast might profit by; yet now, in the nineteenth century, there are those living in Mexico, who not only strenuously advocate the maintenance of the order of Loyola, but are exerting their influence to have it reinstated to all its pristine wealth, power, and ancient privileges. To revert to the business before Congress—the houses were discussing the propriety of appointing commissioners to Vera Cruz, for the purpose of arranging for a secession from the great plan of independence that had been proclaimed, and again to return “to their first love,” under the control of the Mexican confederacy. The members were good-looking, well dressed, and of gentlemanly behavior—and the system of duelling and bullying practised so extensively in many of our own legislative assemblies, is unknown to the unsophisticated individuals who constitute this body. They probably have not arrived to that state of civilization, which requires such physical agencies to illustrate and to enforce their arguments.
A temptation to visit the most extensive of the modern ruins of this province could not be resisted. The Monastery of St. Francisco, which is situated nearly in the centre of Merida, was erected upon a mound or foundation that, probably, was the formersite of some important structure belonging to the original inhabitants of the place, which fell under the destroying hand of the conqueror. The caciques and their people were driven out, or perished by the ruthless sword; and the church, following fast upon their footsteps, divided the spoils. Where are they now? The vanquished and the vanquisher are numbered with the things that were! and we now stand upon the dilapidated memorial that indistinctly marks the greatness of the one, and the downfall of the other.
This monastery was founded in 1520, without being completed until 1600. It was constructed of walls, after the plan of a fortification, to ward off the attacks of the Indians, who made sudden and frequent attempts to regain their dominions and to annoy their enemies. It occupies about five acres of ground, enclosed by walls forty feet high and eight thick, with walks upon the top. The material is of hard stone, but composed of small pieces, imbedded in a firm mass by the means of mortar. This vast pile, at one time, contained upwards of two thousand friars. Popular opinion drove them out in the political changes of 1825. Only few of the order remain in Yucatan, and they are supported by the church.
The entrance to these ruins is through a huge doorway into a room which was evidently used for persons in waiting for egress, when great caution was requisite in opening the gates, for fear of being surprised by the lurking foe. The arched ceiling of the room is painted with flying ecclesiastical figures,and the apartment is now used as a stable. From thence the entrance leads to a large square, the sides of which were once occupied by churches, corridors, and rooms. Passing through these, over the fallen ruins covered with a rank vegetation, by long halls, we come to a room that might have been a place of devotion, judging from the unusual care exhibited in the architecture of the walls, which now, however, was more or less broken and defaced. Two trap-doors were in the centre, through which is a descent, by stone steps, to an apartment twelve by eighteen feet, and six feet high. This room contained piles of human bones, having been a receptacle for those who died of the cholera. This cell had passages connected with it, but they were so choked up with rubbish that they could not be penetrated. After clambering over broken walls, we reached a second floor, containing halls and rooms that had been used for libraries and lodgings, as I inferred from the words placed over the doors. In proceeding along the halls, or entering the deserted rooms, the hollow sound of the intruder’s footstep drives the frightened bat from his resting-place, and the lizard to his hole. The descent here leads through a succession of rooms and cells, under ground, from whence we left the buildings and passed on through the rank grass surrounding them to a portion of the area, which was formerly cultivated as a garden. The stone walk could yet be seen, and the taste and skill of the designer were perceptible. Fruit-trees still remain,as also wells and reservoirs for bathing and fishing.
On returning to the gateway, and ascending the front or principal wall, the highest summit of one of the pinnacles is attained by a ladder of ropes; from which one may obtain a bird’s-eye view of the city and surrounding country, as also of the immense pile of ruins around him. In front of the interior space are two churches, in a tolerable state of preservation, built in the old Spanish style of pinnacled roof and arches. On the left, ruins of an immense hall are seen, with its large broken arch, leaving the whole interior, with its painted ceilings, exposed to view. Farther on are crumbling bastions and thick walls, falling, covered with ivy and other vegetation. Squares are filled up with masses of rubbish, and overgrown with trees. Symbols of the cross were scattered about, bearing evidence of the class of people that had last been its rulers. On the right, you look down into the deep recesses where, but a moment since, you might have stumbled over the emblems of a once haughty and potent priesthood. All now is silent. No life is stirring, save the ominous buzzard fluttering over the tottering pinnacles, or perched upon the blackened and decaying walls, finishing this picture of desolation.
The 6th of January is the holy-day of the Epiphany. At four o’clock in the morning the streets were completely thronged, principally with females. In the cathedral, at this early hour, it was quite dark. The prevailing gloom was rendered more palpable bythe distant appearance of lighted candles. The priests were administering the sacrament, with crowds of women surrounding them. The long aisles of the church were filled with kneeling devotees. As the sun rose, and threw his bright beams in at the windows, the scene became imposing. A vast multitude of females were offering up their orisons at the same moment; and, if the mind of the spectator could be divested of the prejudice that it was not merely the performance of a superstitious rite, but a direct and sincere appeal to the Giver of all good gifts, the sight, indeed, had been most cheering to the eye, most gratifying to the heart.
Early on the morning of the following day (Sunday) I visited the churches. They were filled, as usual, with the fairer part of creation. In walking through the streets, after breakfast, great preparations were observed to be making for a cock-fight, which was to take place at twelve o’clock. This, next to a bull-bait, is one of the most exciting scenes that can present itself to a Mexican populace. The gentlemen keepers were already wending their way to the pits, which are always kept in readiness for such amusements. The patricians of the city, the heads of the government, officers of the army, scions of the church, citizens, and the poor Indian, were all present, mixed up, helter-skelter; and bets, from six and a quarter cents to three hundred dollars, were freely offered and as readily accepted. There was much excitement, but no quarrelling or harsh words. The cock of theSecretary of Warwas beaten.
The latter part of the day was spent on the Square, where there were about three hundred Yucatan soldiers collected for drill. They were dressed in a shirt and short trousers, with the former article upon the outside, and a broad-brimmed palm-leaf sombrero. Their military equipments were in good keeping. They were officered principally by boys, who had received nothing more than a common school education, wore jacket and trousers, and used canes as substitutes for swords. During the drill a slight shower commenced, which dampened the martial propensities of our heroes with marvellous rapidity. Whatever might have been their preferences to a fight, they certainly preferred to drill another day.
I embraced an opportunity, which was now offered me, of visiting the bishop at his palace. Entering a large doorway in the centre of the court-yard, and ascending a flight of stone steps to a range of corridors, I was met by a servant, who conducted me into an ante-room. My name was taken in; and, in a few seconds, I was received by the bishop, in an adjoining room, with a most cordial welcome. He has a fine head. His person is tall, rather robust, and looked the bishop to the life. He was clad in a blue silk gown, and a cap of the same material, resting upon the crown of his head; and embellished with a massy gold chain around his neck, appended to which was a cross. He conversed respecting citizens and residents of the United States with whom he was acquainted, either personally or by reputation; and spoke of the shipwreck of our nationalvessel, the schooner Porpoise, on board of which he was a passenger, while on her way to Vera Cruz. He expressed himself in the highest terms of commendation of the officers, and gave a glowing account of the perilous voyage. He showed his library with a great politeness, and a becoming pride; but it struck me as being quite limited for one in his position. He expressed himself liberally; and no doubt, as his countenance and actions indicated, he is a right worthy man.
His rooms were fitted up more with an eye to the useful, than to any apparent desire for display. The ceiling was ornamented with lithographs of battles, interspersed with patterns of French fire-boards. Previous to taking leave, he very kindly offered all the aid in his power for facilitating my visit to the towns in the interior. For this, as for other civilities, I shall probably never have an opportunity of testifying to him the full extent of my gratitude.
He passed with us through his house to the door of the college, adjoining, when he left us in charge of the rector, with instructions to conduct us through the building. The institution is called “Minerva.” The first room entered was the library, which was small and badly arranged. It was comprised of works principally relating to the church. It contains a portrait of the founder of the college, a building which was completed in 1775. It is supported by certain taxes paid by each curate in the province. These having been cut off, in a great degree, by the recent changes in the government, seriously affectthe institution, which, at this time, is quite limited in its means. Though the pay of the president and professors is small, and the contingent expenses are light, it is apprehended that it cannot long be continued. Its studies do not go beyond the high schools in the United States. We hastily glanced at this building, and then entered the cathedral with our attentive friend, who took especial pains to point out every thing worthy of particular notice. Upon a close examination of the altars and shrines, it was plainly to be discovered that the church was poor. The time is gone by in which churches are made the depositories of the precious metals, formerly a source of so much wealth to them.
One of the shrines contains a wooden image of our Saviour, to which attention was called by one of the priests that accompanied us through the church. He stated to us with much gravity, that it was preserved harmless from a great fire by a miracle, and that it is now looked upon as a most sacred relic. A room was shown us containing portraits of all the bishops of Yucatan. They were badly executed. One of them was pointed out as having been a great eater; he would devour a whole turkey at his dinner, and say, “it was a fine chicken.” Another was shown who had performed the miracle of changing sour apples to sweet, a function which has given its proprietor’s name to a species of apple, which is retained to this day.