CHAPTER V.
Festival of the Purification—A Factory Discovered—New Quarters—Appearance of Public Buildings—Church—Singular Display of Taste—Population and Health—The Town—Its Suburbs—Monastic Ruins—Remarkable Sonato—Amusements—The Riband Dance—The Market Place—Cotton—Ancient Ruins—Difficulties of Strangers—A Norther—Kaua—The Churlish Curate—End of a Feast—The Route—Approach to Chi-Chen—A Glimpse of the Ruins.
Travelling gear was now thrown aside, the toilet consulted, and in a few moments I was in a procession in honor of the “Purification of the Holy Virgin,” with head uncovered, as devout a Catholic as could be met within the precincts of the Vatican, or, at least, within the congregation about me, if I might be permitted to judge from the appendix to their devotional exercises on the present occasion. The men, women, and children, as soon as they had concluded these ceremonies here, started in a body, with a revolting precipitation, to the gaming tables, which had been set forth in the ruins of an old convent adjoining the sanctuary where the procession had just been dissolved! Here were found all classes of society, male and female. The highest ecclesiastical and civil dignitaries were there, hob and nob, with the most common of the multitude. The ladies generally interested themselves in the games, and sometimesplayed deep. They were, most of them, good-looking, and tastefully dressed; but they quite stared me out of countenance. I doubtless appeared as strange to them, as they and their customs did to me. I contrived, however, to survive their scrutiny. After lounging about the long corridors where the company was assembled, observing and being observed for two hours, and feeling fatigued, not only with the scenes around, but with the day’s ride, I hastened to my quarters, and the quiet of the pillow.
Awaking at an early hour in the morning, the sounds of a steam-engine greeted my ear. No music ever thrilled me with so much delight. For a moment I dreamed that I was in the land of the workingman, and within the charmed circle of his ministrations. On looking out, however, in the direction whence the noise proceeded, I noticed a cotton factory in a neighboring street. I need not say that it became the very first object of my curiosity.
The proprietor of this establishment, to whom I had letters, is a gentleman of the old school, well informed and communicative; and, withal, a liberal man. He was a native of Spain; in his early years was attached to the navy of that kingdom; and, among other things in his eventful life, was at the battle of Trafalgar. Since he has resided in Yucatan he has been its governor, and held many other high and responsible stations, and is now esteemed one of its most valuable citizens. His attentions to me, during my stay, were as real as they were unremitting. He informed me that the factory was establishedby himself, in connexion with others, in 1834. The engine, looms, &c., were brought from New-York, and transported across the country, from the port of Sisal to this place, in wagons imported for the purpose. It was an arduous as well as a very expensive undertaking. The proprietor has overcome many obstacles which he had to encounter at the commencement of his enterprise, and is now successfully established, with a very fair business. His was the first, and is still the only one in the country. I found it in complete order, and conducted upon the most liberal scale, yielding to those employed more than double the amount of wages usually paid in this state. The building was of the most durable stone; two stories high, forty-five by seventy-five feet, and with an arched roof, supported by strong butments. The style of the arched roof is common to this country, owing to the absence of large timber. The ground it occupies, including the out-houses, is about one hundred and fifty by two hundred feet. The first floor contains the looms, twenty in number; and the second, a thousand spindles, with a picker and gin. It turns out four hundred yards of cloth per day, of a uniform medium quality, of a strong texture, which is considered superior to either the American or the English of the same class. It employs fifty men, principally of the half-breeds, who are paid by the piece. The cost of the building and machinery was upwards of forty thousand dollars.
The traveller, in this country, is often subjected to the unpleasant necessity of thrusting himself uponthe civility of the inhabitants of the towns he visits, owing to the almost total absence of public houses, and the miserable condition of many of the Casa-reals; but foreign visiters are seldom here, so that the kindnesses I have thus far experienced, appear to be tendered with the utmost cheerfulness. The people do not feel the presence of a guest to be irksome; and, whatever may be said of their characters, the want of hospitality to strangers cannot be charged against them.
The kind friend to whom I have alluded, procured for me comfortable quarters in an unoccupied building in the square, of which I at once took possession. It is situated in front of the church, and adjoins the curate’s house, which is tenanted by himself and his three or fourfemmes propres à tout, and fifteen or sixteen children, who are taught to call him father.
The square itself is a fine one; or, rather, there is room for a fine one; but, like most other fine squares in the towns I have visited, is destitute of style or decoration. The public buildings, which are the town-house, of two stories, with low pillared arches, and the church, are all that strike the eye of the stranger; the others are comprised of some few one-story dwelling houses and stores, with huge doors and barred windows, occupied by citizens and small dealers. The area of this square serves as a market-place, and a pasture for mules to graze!
The church presents a neat appearance from without, and is one of the very handsomest buildings I had seen in the country. It is of stone, covered witha yellow stucco. The door lintels and arches are of carved stone; it has two square turrets, in good keeping, and is set off with a well-proportioned dome. There are some irregularities, however; but these are not seen, except from particular points of observation. The interior of this, as of most of the churches in the province, is in a bad condition; its decorations are in barbarous taste, and its shrines defaced. Its exterior impresses one with an idea of its vastness; but, on entering, it appears diminutive. This is owing to the great depth of the walls, of this and similar buildings throughout Yucatan, which are frequently from twelve to fifteen feet thick. At the entrance is a shrine, representing our Saviour bearing his cross, assisted by the figure of a man in tight shorts, of the old English style, and coat to match. The hat worn by the adjutant was not absolutely bad, but in shocking bad taste. It was a silk imitation beaver; being one of those high, bell-crowned narrow-rims, of the style worn some fifteen or twenty years ago. This was probably intended for “Simon of Cyrene.” The incumbent of this curacy has a large income, which, it is said, he has enjoyed for many years, without having ever entered the walls of his church.
The number of inhabitants of Valladolid and its suburbs, is estimated at about fifteen thousand. The place is noted throughout the peninsula for the salubrity of its climate; and no better evidence need be adduced, than the simple fact of there not being a single doctor or apothecary in the whole district. Citizens from other parts of the province, less favored,come here to recruit and to recover their health.
The streets are well laid out, and clean; but grass grows in the centre of the most frequented. The same style of building is observed here as in other parts of this country that I have visited. The houses are principally of one story, flat roofs, large doors, and barred windows; with court-yards, stone and mortar floors, &c. Many large houses in the chief streets, within sight of the square, were fast going to decay.
There are no societies, or private or public places of instruction or amusement. This is singular, when it is considered that the native inhabitants speak of theirnoblecity, as they term it, with great pride, and call themselves theéliteof Yucatan. This point I am not prepared to dispute. It is certain, however, that the city, or its society, presents few evidences of the schoolmaster having been abroad among them.
The suburbs, or “barrios” as they are locally called, are five in number; each having a church and its attendant priest. The population, with a very few exceptions, is composed of poor Indians, the major part of whom, of both sexes, go habituallyin puris naturalibus, or nearly so; living in mean huts, and supporting large and expensive churches; while they themselves appear to be contented to subsist alone upon corn and water.
In the barrio Sisal is the ruin of an old convent. Its crumbling walls tell of changes that are slowly developing themselves in the civilized world. It was an immense structure in its time, covering a spaceof two acres, enclosed within a high stone wall; and remains a painful monument of the mighty power which the order of Loyola, its original proprietors, once exercised upon the destinies of this country. All that is now left is the church, and the house of the priest. The cloisters, corridors, and squares, are all fast going to pieces; and fragments of them are lying about in every direction. Its spacious halls are now the abode of the poor Indian, who aspires to a portion of the hallowed influence which is reputed to hang around its dilapidated walls. The crumbling turrets and blackened domes are covered with a wild vegetation, and have become a perch for the buzzard, and the hiding-place for loathsome reptiles. One of the wells connected with the monastery is dug through a solid rock to the depth of one hundred and fifty feet, when it opens upon a subterraneous river of pure water. In former times, a handsome temple was erected over it; the remains of a part of its dome still exist. There are not many pleasing associations connected with these places.
The other barrios have nothing of interest. They are thickly populated by the listless natives, who, as usual, live in their small huts, constructed with poles and mud. Nothing was to be observed like thrift or industry. They were the most wretched specimen of human beings that I saw in the country. The churches, too, like all things else around them, are growing old. Literally, every thing appears to be left here to take care of itself. The roads in the vicinity are narrow, broken, rocky pathways for mules.
During my walks about the city I came to a sonato, reputed to be the largest in the province, supposed to be a portion of a subterraneous river; and caused, as I judged, by some great convulsion of nature. It presents a fine spectacle, resembling the mouth of a cavern, with its overhanging rocks and broken fragments left or worn away into the shape of inverted cones. Evidently, it was once hidden; and when or how it effected an opening, no one hereabouts can tell. All that the Indian knows is, that it affords him an abundant and good supply of water. The average depth of the water is twelve fathoms; while the distance from its surface to the surface of the ground above, is full fifty feet. The well itself has no perceptible outlet, and is about fifty feet in circumference. The surrounding rocks are principally calcareous, with a silicious intermixture. These sonatos are held in superstitious reverence by the Indians. They are reputed to be the places where most of their religious legends had their origin.
SONATOnearVALLADOLID.
SONATOnearVALLADOLID.
SONATOnearVALLADOLID.
The Indians and Mestizos here still hold on to some of the old customs and amusements of their forefathers, upon which they pride themselves. Among the latter, that of dancing appears to be most popular in Valladolid, and usually takes place every fair evening, during the festivals, in or near one of the squares. Around the place designated for the entertainment, as I frequently observed, were placed benches for the dancing-girls, who arrange themselves in a row, separated from the crowd. They are chosen in regular rotation, and led out to dance.Their toilet was of the olden time, but it set off their plain features and low stature to good advantage. Their head-gear was a black silk hat, of the style usually worn by gentlemen, with gold and silver bands, intermixed with roses and long plumes of feathers; and their rich black hair, neatly braided, hung down the back, and almost swept the ground. The dress consisted of a loose white garment, suspended gracefully from the shoulders, ornamented at the top and bottom with various colored needlework, and white silk stockings and shoes—the whole beautiful and chaste. They danced with much skill and taste. The men wore shirts and trousers made of calico, with sash and blanket. The latter article is thrown over the shoulder, and carried with a grace which one looks for in vain out of Mexico. The sight was altogether enchanting; and I imagined for the moment that I beheld before me the royal abundance and Indian simplicity of the court of Montezuma.
The three days of masquerade before lent, (Ash-Wednesday,) commenced on Sunday, the sixth of February. The riband, or pole dance, among the masqueraders, excited the most attention. A pole, about twenty feet long, was raised perpendicularly, from the top of which were fastened fifteen or twenty pieces of wide, variously-colored ribands. Each dancer, laying hold of a piece and extending it, formed a wide circle around the pole. The dancing commenced at a given signal, all joining. They crossed each other with the greatest precision, andin such order as to form a beautiful lattice or network with the ribands, until they were wound up. The figure then suddenly changes, and the ribands, by a reverse movement, are unwound. This they continue until they are tired. The evenings of the three days were finished by balls at the house of some one of the citizens, where the most respectable part of the population was to be seen.
The market-places of the interior, generally, present a singular appearance to the eye of a stranger. The sellers are principally Indians, squatted about upon the ground, with small pieces of meat laid out in piles, and vegetables displayed in the same manner, upon benches beside them, in the public square. The currency, ofcacaoseed, is also counted out in small parcels, ready to make change to customers. The market-place is vacated at an early hour in the morning by both customers and venders, to be occupied, for the remainder of the day, by turkey-buzzards and dogs; which are suffered to legislate upon, negotiate for, and try as best they may, any disputed claims which may arise to the property left behind by their predecessors of the morning.
The country in the vicinity of Valladolid is much broken and rocky, and carries unequivocal indications of earthquakes and convulsions. The soil is very thin, but good crops of corn are taken from it. The fruit-trees of the tropics are abundant, and yet no attention is paid to their cultivation, either for use or for ornament.
The cotton plantations, or rather the districtswhere the material is raised that is consumed in the manufactory in this city, are to the north, and known as the “Tizimin district.” The same spot is seldom cultivated for two successive seasons. After the crop is gathered, the ground is suffered to be overrun with weeds and brushwood; which, when years have elapsed, are cut down and burnt, and the field is re-planted. Cotton here is not in classification; it is gathered and sold in the seed, and ranges from ten to fifteen cents per pound. It is generally superior, both in texture and color; but the indolence of the natives, and other causes, will prevent the extensive cultivation of that article for many years to come.
I learned, during my sojourn here, that there were many interesting places, further to the east, worthy the attention of the stranger—ancient buildings, and even cities—some as far east as the island of Cozumel. I also heard of ruins in the neighborhood of Chi-Chen, which, for reasons that need not be mentioned, I concluded to visit first. The owner of this hacienda, which is situated about eleven leagues to the west-south-west from this city, resides here. Having learned my intentions, he not only very generously offered me the use of his house, which is near to the ruins, but sent his major-domo to have it prepared for my reception.
On the morning of the eighth of February, after again experiencing the instability and fickleness of the natives, and that apathy and indolence proverbially characteristic of them, I succeeded, through the aid of my friend, in securing a guide and horseto conduct us thither. The Indian, who is the traveller’s sole reliance, as previously remarked, in all kinds of menial service, can hardly be induced to work, unless from the necessity of supplying his own immediate wants, or under the orders of the alcalde, to whom strangers are often obliged to apply for assistance in compelling these indolent people to assist them. In such a case, the aggrieved party enters his complaint to the alcalde, stating that he has endeavored to hire an Indian, but that he refuses. The Indian is then sent for, and his reasons for declining heard: if not satisfactory, and they seldom are, he is commanded to attend the traveller, and the amount of his compensation fixed at the time. The penalty for disobedience is imprisonment, which, however, is seldom incurred.
We were upon the road at an early hour, but had not proceeded far before we experienced “a norther” of rain and wind—a kind of tempest peculiar to these regions, and exceedingly annoying. We stopped at an Indian’s hut for shelter; but the dilapidated state of the walls offered so insufficient a protection from the elements, that I soon concluded to make headway under their fury, and to endeavor to reach the town of Kaua, where we expected to find a good retreat. The ride over the slippery rocks was slow and hazardous, but at three o’clock we reached the long looked-for place, where we had pictured to ourselves so much happiness in the change of clothes and comfortable lodgings. How fallacious, sometimes, are our brightest anticipations! On arriving at the Casa-real,(the traveller’s first hope,) every thing was found to be comfortless and forbidding. Our clothes were drenched, and the storm continued unabated.
The curate was the next resort; he lived close by. So, dripping with the rain, and trembling with cold, we went to his house, and gave such a shivering knock, that it might have denoted our pitiable condition without the necessity of words to explain it. After some delay, a short, thick-set, gray-headed old man came to the door, inquiring, rather gruffly, what was wanted? A single glance might have told him; but we, however, verbally stated our situation, and requested his advice. All we could obtain from him in answer was, “Nadie, Nadie!”—with such an emphatic and significant shrug, that I was sure he had practised it all his life. I left as I had entered, rather coolly. Slightly scanning his room, however, I observed, in a corner, a table covered with broken pieces of cups, the floor filled with old chairs, books, &c., and dirt in abundance. I had little difficulty in believing the grapes were sour. I pocketed my ungracious reception as well as might be, and returned through the streets to the Casa-real, partly to see of what sort of people thispiouschurl, to whom I was a stranger, and who took me not in, was the Corypheus, and partly to get an idea of the topography of the place. I found my home had much improved by my absence. I was now in a state of mind to look at it with far greater satisfaction than when I left it. We built a huge fire upon the floor, warmed ourselves, and dried our clothes; and over our supper, that we hadjust bought of the Indians, decided, that it was better to submit to the evils that we already had, than “to fly to others that we knew not of.”
Only one white man was seen in the place, and it is questionable whether he were so all the way through. He was the curate, of whose tender mercies I had received so refreshing a specimen.
In my walk, I witnessed a scene which was calculated to excite both pity and disgust. In front of the church were collected some forty or fifty drunken Indians, with the log drum and other uncouth instruments, including their voices, making up with discordant and hideous noises a celebration of the last day of the masquerade. One of the prime actors in this revel eventually became so affected by the liquor he had drunk, that he became decidedly mad—striking about him and raving furiously. His companions were obliged to secure him by ropes, and have him carried to his hut.
By eight o’clock on the following day, I was mounted and on the route. The roads were somewhat more passable, though the same rocky surface, with occasional rises, was encountered. I observed one sugar-plantation on my way; the cane, which was then nearly ready to be cut, looked very well.
As I approached Chi-Chen, and while not more than four or five miles distant, I observed the roadside was strewn with columns, large hewn stones, &c., overgrown with bushes and long grass. On our arrival, at noon, we were most cordially received by the major-domo at the hacienda: the horses weretaken into good keeping, and I was conducted to quarters which had been prepared in anticipation of my coming. These were in the church near by, in that part which is known to us as the vestry-room; and a very comfortable room I found too for my purposes.
This church stands upon a rise of land that over-looks the country for a considerable distance around, embracing the hacienda, and, probably, the most remarkable ruins the world has ever known. I found the major-domo as unremitting in his attentions as if he had been made for me expressly. The eighty Indians attached to the hacienda, the house and all its contents, as he assured me, were mine. I ought to be comfortable and happy. This, and the surrounding attractions, offered every facility for repose. There never could be found a more delightful place for dreaming life away in a state of irresponsible vegetation than the one now presented to me. The climate—the example and behavior of Nature about me—almost tempted me to abandon myself to the enchantment of its charming indolence.
I cast my travelling equipments aside, and, delighted with the attentions showered upon me, and which I am happy to say were the harbingers of an unremitting series from my host, I proceeded to the house for breakfast. Entering through a well-formed arch, built of stone, smooth plastered, I passed into a large cattle-yard, which was divided into three parts by stone walls, (in this manner the whole premises were enclosed,) and ascended a small flight of steps thatwere carried over a long and well-cemented watering-trough for the accommodation of cattle, which extended the whole length of the front. On reaching the corridor, the walls and floor presented to me a singular appearance. Here was an odd and startling figure—the god, perhaps, of a forgotten people; and there a beautiful rosette: and even beneath my feet were pieces of carved stone and hieroglyphics that seemed as though they were striving to make me understand the story of their wonderful beginning. Within reach of the eye were to be seen the fragments and ornaments of pillars that once, possibly, embellished the palace of a proud cacique, stuck into the rude wall of the poor Indian’s hut! Lost in meditation, I was soliloquizing to myself upon the transitory nature of all human greatness, when I was suddenly aroused by stumbling over a huge—heap of beans! This brought me back at once to the world of reality, and to my welcome breakfast. This meal was served upon a clean stool; and, seated in a hammock, I made a hearty repast.
My house was one-story, built of stone from the ruins in the vicinity, with spacious corridors in front and rear. It had but four rooms, which served for an eating and sleeping room, granary, &c. At the side of the building was a deep well, to which the Indians and cattle look for their drink. The water is drawn up by means of buckets, attached by twigs to a plaited strap of the same material, passed around a cylinder, which is turned by a mule. In the revolutions, the buckets are emptied into reservoirs; and thence the water isled off by conductors to the different places where it is required. A few vegetables were growing about the premises; but little or no cultivation was perceptible. Fruits of the tropics, here, as elsewhere in this province, grow in abundance. I proceeded to the ruins almost immediately after my arrival; but their description must be reserved for another chapter.
The favorable anticipations respecting the comforts of my quarters were fully confirmed. Though the furnishing was somewhat unique, still I found myself comfortably domicileiated. A huge stone altar stood at one extremity of the room, upon which rested a cross, with curiously painted devices of sculls, boxes, ladders, knives, cocks, temples, flags, &c., the whole capped with the expressive initials of I N R I. On either side stood small boxes, containing dolls, representing saints, &c. In the corner of the room were sundry pieces of carved wood, exhibiting the figure of our Saviour crucified. The sides were filled up with tables and platforms, to carry the saints on, in the processions. Numerous wooden candlesticks were scattered about, hither and yond, intermingled with hammocks, riding equipments, &c.