enlarge-imageOverlooking Monaco and Monte CarloOverlooking Monaco and Monte Carlo
Overlooking Monaco and Monte Carlo
The capital sits proudly on its sea-jutting promontory, with Condamine, its port, where the neck joins the mainland, and Monte Carlo, the faubourg of pleasure, immediately adjoining on the right. All is white, green, and blue, and of the most brilliant tone throughout.
Monaco was a microcosm in size even when Roquebrune and Menton made a part of its domain, and to-day it is much less in area. It was in the dark days of the French Revolution that the little principality was rent in fragments, and there were left only the rock and its two dependencies for the present Albert de Goyon-Matignon, the descendant of the Maréchal de Matignon, to rule over. It was this Maréchal de Matignon, then Duc de Valentinois, who espoused the heiress of the glorious house of Grimaldi, thus bringing the Grimaldi into alliance with the present power of this kingdom-in-little.
What a kingdom it is, to be sure! What a highly organized monarchy! There is a council of state; a tribunal, with its judges and advocates; a captain of the port; a registry for loans and mortgages; an inspector of public works, etc., etc.; and all the functionaries are as awe-inspiring and terrible as such officers usually are. Even the “Commandant de laGarde,” to give him his real title, is a sort of minister of war, and he is, too, a retired French officer of high rank.
The Frenchman when he crosses the frontier into Monaco literally journeys abroad. The frontier patrol is a gorgeous sort of an individual by himself, a sort of a cross between thegardien de la paixof France and the Italian customs officer who comes into the carriages of the personally conducted tourists to Italy searching for contraband matches and salt,—as if any civilized person would attempt to smuggle these unwholesome things anyway.
As one enters the Principality, by the road coming from Nice, he passes between the rock and the steep hillsides by the Boulevard Charles III., and, turning to the right, enters the town where is the seat of government.
The town has some three thousand odd inhabitants, which is a good many for the “mignonne cité,” of which one makes the round in ten minutes. But what a round! A promenade without a rival in the world! Well-kept houses, villas, and palaces at every turn, with a fringe of rocky escarpment, and here and there a plot of luxuriant soil which gives a foothold to the fig-trees of Barbary, aloes, olive and orangetrees, giant geraniums, lauriers-roses and all the flora of a subtropical climate.
The inhabitant of the Principality of Monaco is fortunate in more ways than one; he is not taxed by theimpôt, and he does not contribute a sou to the civil list of the prince. “The game” pays all this, and, since its profits mostly come from those who can afford to pay, who shall not say that it is a blessing rather than a curse. Another thing: the Monégasques, the descendants of the original natives, are all “gentilshommes,” by reason of the ennobling of their ancestors by Charles Quint.
By a sinuous route one descends from Monaco to La Condamine, the most populous centre in the Principality, built between the rock of Monaco and the hill of Monte Carlo. Five hundred metres farther on, but upward, and one is on the plateau of Spélugues, a name now changed to Monte Carlo.
It is with a certain hypocrisy, of course, that the frequenters of Monte Carlo rave about its charms and its resemblance to Florence or to Athens; they come there for the game and the social distractions which it offers, and that’s all there is about it. It is all very fascinating nevertheless.
All the splendour of Monte Carlo, and it is splendid in all its appointments without a doubt, is but a mask for the comings and goings of the gambler’s hopes and those who live off of his passion.
A true philosopher will not cavil at this; the sea is the most delightful blue; the background one of the most entrancing to be seen in a world’s tour; and all the necessaries and refinements of life are here in the most superlative degree. Who would, or could, moralize under such conditions? It’s enough to bring a smile of contentment to the countenance of the most confirmed and blasé dyspeptic who ever lived.
But is it needful to avow that one quits all the luxury of Monte Carlo with a certain sigh of relief? All this splendour finally palls, and one seeks the byways again with genuine pleasure, or, if not the byways, the highways, and, as the road leads him onward to Menton and the Italian frontier, he finds he is still surrounded by a succession of the same landscape charms which he has hitherto known. Therefore it is not altogether with regret that he leaves the Principality by the back door and makes a mental note that Menton will be his next stopping-place.
It is to be feared that few of the mad throng of Monte Carlo pleasure-seekers ever visit the little parish chapel of Sainte Dévote, though it is scarce a stone’s throw off the Boulevard de la Condamine, and in full view of the railway carriage windows coming east or west. The chapel is an ordinary enough architectural monument, but the legend connected with its foundation should make it a most appealing place of pilgrimage for all who are fond of visiting religious or historic shrines. One can visit it in the hour usually devoted to lunch,—between games, so to say,—if one really thinks he is in the proper mood for it under such circumstances.
Sainte Dévote was born in Corsica, under the reign of Diocletian, and became a martyr for her faith. She was burned alive, and her remains were taken by a faithful churchman on board a frail bark and headed for the mainland coast. A tempest threw the craft out of its course, but an unseen voice commanded the priest to follow the flight of a dove which winged its way before them. They came to shore near where the present chapel stands. The relics of the saint were greatly venerated by the people of the surrounding country, who lavished great gifts upon the shrine. The corsairAntinope sought to rob the chapel of itstrésor, in 1070, but was prevented by the faithful worshippers.
Each year, on January 27th, the fête-day of the saint, a procession and rejoicing are held, amid a throng of pilgrims from all parts, and a bark is pushed off from the sands at the water’s edge, all alight, as a symbol of protestation against the attempted piratical seizure of the statue and itstrésor. For many centuries the Fête de Sainte Dévote was presided over by the Abbé de St. Pons. To-day the Bishop of Monaco, croisered and mitred, plays his part in this great symbolical procession. It is a characteristic detail, in honour of the efforts of the sailor-folk of olden days in rebuffing the pirate who would have pillaged the shrine, that the bishop subordinates himself and gives the head of the procession to the representatives of the people. Altogether it is a ceremony of great interest and well worthy of more outside enthusiasm than it usually commands. The princely flag flies from Monaco’s Palais on these occasions, whether the ruler be in residence or not. At other times it is only flown to signify the presence of the prince.
enlarge-imageThe Ravine of Saint Dévote, Monte CarloThe Ravine of Saint Dévote, Monte Carlo
The Ravine of Saint Dévote, Monte Carlo
With all its artificiality, with all its splendour of nature and the works of man, and withall the historic associations of its past, one can but take a mingled glad and sad adieu of Monaco and Mont Charles. “Monaco est bien le rêve le plus fantastique, devenue la plus resplendissante des réalités!”
MENTONis more tranquil than Nice or Cannes, and, in many ways, more adorable; but it is a sort of hospital and is not conducive to gaiety to the extent that it would be were there an utter absence of Bath chairs, pharmacies, and shops devoted to the sale of nostrums and invalid foods. There is none of the feverish existence of the other cities of the Riviera here, and, in a way, this is a detraction, for it is not the unspoiled countryside, either, but bears all the marks of the advent of an indulgent civilization. One might think that one’s very existence in such a delightful spot might be a panacea for most of flesh’s ills, but apparently this is not so, at least the doctors will not allow their “patients” to think so.
Menton’s port is quite extensive and is well sheltered from the pounding waves which here roll up from the Ligurian sea, at times in truly tempestuous fashion. To the rear the Maritime Alps slope abruptly down to the sea, withscarce a warning before their plunge into the Mediterranean. All this confines Menton within a very small area, and there is little or no suburban background. In a way this is an advantage; it most certainly tends toward a mildness of the winter climate; but on the other hand there is lacking a sense of freedom and grandeur when one takes his walk abroad.
Just before reaching Menton is the garden-spot of Cap Martin, once a densely wooded “petite forêt,” but now threaded with broad avenues cut through the ranks of the great trees and producing a wonderland of scenic vistas, which, if they lack the virginity of the wild-wood as it once was, are truly delightful and fairylike in their disposition. Great hotels and villas have come, for the Emperor of Austria and the ex-Empress Eugénie were early smitten by the charms of the marvellously situated promontory, making of it a Mediterranean retreat at once exclusive and unique.
The panorama eastward and westward from this green cape is of a varied brilliancy unexcelled elsewhere along the Riviera. On one side is Monaco’s rock, Monte Carlo, and the enchanting banks of “Petite Afrique,” and onthe other the white walls and red roofs of Menton.
Between Cap Martin and Menton the road skirts the very water’s edge, crossing the Val de Gorbio and entering the town via Carnoles, where the Princes of Monaco formerly had a palace. Modern Menton is like all the rest of the modern Riviera; its streets bordered with luxurious dwellings and hotels, up-to-date shop-fronts, and all the appointments of the age. At the entrance to the city is a monument commemorative of the voluntary union of Menton and Roquebrune with France.
Menton is a strange mixture of the old and the new. There are no indications of a Roman occupation here, though some geographers have traced its origin back through the night of time to the ancient Lumone. More likely it was founded by piratical hordes from the African coast, who, it is known, established a settlement here in the eighth century. Furthermore, the “Maritime Itinerary” of the conquering Romans makes no mention of any landing or harbour between Vintimille and Monaco, thus ignoring Menton entirely, even if they ever knew of it.
The town is superbly situated in the form of an amphitheatre between two tiny bays, andthe country around is well watered by the torrents which flow down from the highland background.
After having been a pirate stronghold, the town became a part of the Comté of Vintimille, after the expulsion of the Saracens, and later had for its seigneurs a Genoese family by the name of Vento. In the fourteenth century it fell to the Grimaldi, and to this day its aspect, except for the rather banal hotel and villa architecture, has remained more Italian in motive than French.
Menton is not wholly an idling community like Monte Carlo and Monaco. It has a very considerable commerce in lemons, four millions annually of the fruit being sent out of the country. The industry has given rise to a species of labour by women which is a striking characteristic in these parts. Like the women who unload the Palermo and Seville orange boats at Marseilles, the “porteïris” of Menton are most picturesque. They carry their burdens always on the head, and one marvels at the skill with which they carry their loads in most awkward places. The work is hard, of course, but it does not seem to have developed any weaknesses or maladies unknown to other peasant or labouring folk, hence thereseems no reason why it should not continue. Certainly the Mentonnaises have a certain grace of carriage and suppleness in their walk which the dames of fashion might well imitate.
The fishing quarter of Menton is one of the most picturesque on the whole Riviera, with itsrues-escaliers, its vaulted houses, and the walls and escarpments of the old military fortification coming to light here and there. It is nothing like Martigues, in the Bouches-du-Rhône, really the most picturesque fishing-port in the world, nor is it a whit more interesting than the old Catalan quarter of Marseilles; but it is far more varied, with the life of those who conduct the petty affairs of the sea, than any other of the Mediterranean resorts.
Menton is something like Hyères, a place of villas quite as much as of hotels, though the latter are of that splendid order of things that spell modern comfort, but which are really most undesirable to live in for more than a few days at a time.
Not every one goes to the Riviera to live in a villa, but those who do cannot do better than to hunt one out at Menton. Menton is almost on the frontier of Italy and France, and that has an element of novelty in every-day happeningswhich would amuse an exceedingly dull person, and, if that were not enough, there is Monte Carlo itself, less than a dozen kilometres away.
When one thinks of it, a villa set on some rocky shelf on a wooded hillside overlooking the Mediterranean, with an orange-garden at the back,—as they all seem to have here at Menton,—is not so bad, and offers many advantages over hotel life, particularly as the cost need be no more. You may hire a villa for anything above a thousand francs a season, and it will be completely furnished. You will get, perhaps, five rooms and a cellar, which you fill with wood and wine to while away the long winter evenings, for they can be chill and drear, even here, from December to March.
Before you is a panorama extending from Cap Martin to Mortala-Bordighera, another palm-set haven on the Italian Riviera, which once was bare of the conventions of fashion, but which has now become as fashionable as Nice.
You can hire a servant to preside over the pots and pans for the absurdly small sum of fifty francs a month, and she will cook, and shop, and fetch and carry all day long, and will keep other robbers from molesting you, if youwill only wink at her making a little commission on her marketing.
She will work cheerfully and never grumble if you entertain a flock of unexpected tourist friends who have “just dropped in from the Italian Lakes, Switzerland, or Cairo,” and will dress neatly and picturesquely, and cook fish and chickens in a heavenly fashion.
To the eastward, toward Italy, the post-road of other days passes through the sumptuous faubourg of Garavan and continues to Pont Saint Louis, over the ravine of the same name. Here is the frontier station (by road) where one leavesgendarmesbehind and has his first encounter with thecarabiniersof Italy.
Anciently, as history tells, the two neighbouring peoples were one, and even now, in spite of the change in the course of events, there is none of that enmity between the French and Italian frontier guardians that is to be seen on the great highroad from Paris to Metz, via Mars la Tour, where the automobilist, if he is a Frenchman, is lucky if he gets through at all without a most elaborate passport.
The traveller from the north, by the Rhône valley, has come, almost imperceptibly, into the midst of a Ligurian population, very differentindeed from the inhabitants of the great watershed.
At Pont Saint Louis one first salutes Italy, coming down through France, having left Paris by the “Route de Lyon,” and thence by the “Route d’Antibes,” and finally into the prolongation known as the “Route d’Italie.” It is a long trip, but not a hard one, and for variety and excellence its like is not to be found in any other land.
The roads of France, like many another legacy left by the Romans, are one of the nation’s proudest possessions, and their general well-kept appearance, and the excellence of their grading makes them appeal to automobilists above all others. There may be excellent short stretches elsewhere, but there are none so perfect, nor so long, nor so charming as the modern successor of the old Roman roadway into Gaul.
The Pont Saint Louis was built in 1806, and crosses at a great height the river lying at the bottom of the ravine. Once absolutely uncontrollable, this little stream has been diked, and now waters and fertilizes many neighbouring gardens.
By a considerable effort one may gain theheight above, known as the “Rochers Rouges,” and see before him not only the sharp-cut rocky coast of the French Riviera, but far away into Italy as well.
enlarge-imagePont Saint LouisPont Saint Louis
Pont Saint Louis
All this brings up the Frenchman’s dream of the time when France, Italy, and Spain shall become one, so far as the control of the Mediterranean lake is concerned, and shall thus prevent Europe from returning to the barbarianism to which the “égoïsme britannique et l’avidité allemande” is fast leading it.
Whether this change will ever come about is as questionable as the preciseness of the accusation,but there is certainly some reason for the suggestion. Another decade may change the map of Europe considerably. Who knows?
THE END.
Up to 1789, there were thirty-three great governments making up modern France, the twelve governments created by Francis I. being the chief, and sevenpetits gouvernementsas well.
enlarge-imageThe Provinces of FranceThe Provinces of France
The Provinces of France
In the following table thegrands gouvernementsof the first foundation are indicated in heavy-faced type, those which were taken from the first in italics, and those which were acquired by conquest in ordinary characters.
[*]Under Francis I. the Angoumois was comprised in the Orléanais.
The sevenpetits gouvernementswere:
enlarge-image
Being a brief résumé of the attractions of some of the chief centres of Provence and the Riviera.
AIX-EN-PROVENCE
Bouches-du-Rhône. S. P. 19,398 h.Hotels: Nègre-Coste,** De la Mule Noire,* De France.*The ancient capital of Provençal arts and letters, and the Cours d’Amour of the troubadours.Sights: Eglise de la Madeleine, Cathedral St. Sauveur, Hôtel de Ville, Tour de Toureluco, Eglise St. Jean de Malte, Musée, Bibliothèque, Statue of René d’Anjou, by David d’Augers. Carnival each year in February or March.Excursions: Ruins of Château de Puyricard, Aqueduc Roquefavour, Ermitage de St. Honorat, Bastide du Roi René, Gardanne and Les Pennes.Distances in kilometres: Marseilles, 29; Arles, 80; Toulon, 75; Roquevaire, 29.
Bouches-du-Rhône. S. P. 19,398 h.
Hotels: Nègre-Coste,** De la Mule Noire,* De France.*
The ancient capital of Provençal arts and letters, and the Cours d’Amour of the troubadours.
Sights: Eglise de la Madeleine, Cathedral St. Sauveur, Hôtel de Ville, Tour de Toureluco, Eglise St. Jean de Malte, Musée, Bibliothèque, Statue of René d’Anjou, by David d’Augers. Carnival each year in February or March.
Excursions: Ruins of Château de Puyricard, Aqueduc Roquefavour, Ermitage de St. Honorat, Bastide du Roi René, Gardanne and Les Pennes.
Distances in kilometres: Marseilles, 29; Arles, 80; Toulon, 75; Roquevaire, 29.
ANTIBES
Alpes-Maritimes. C. 5,512 h.Hotels: Grand Hotel,*** Terminus.**Excursions: Presqu’ile and Cap d’Antibes, Fort Lavré, Villa and Jardin Thuret, La Garonpe, Chapelle, and Phare.Distances in kilometres: Paris, 976; Cannes, 12; Grasse, 23; Nice, 23; La Turbie, 41; Monte Carlo, 44; St. Raphaël, 51.
Alpes-Maritimes. C. 5,512 h.
Hotels: Grand Hotel,*** Terminus.**
Excursions: Presqu’ile and Cap d’Antibes, Fort Lavré, Villa and Jardin Thuret, La Garonpe, Chapelle, and Phare.
Distances in kilometres: Paris, 976; Cannes, 12; Grasse, 23; Nice, 23; La Turbie, 41; Monte Carlo, 44; St. Raphaël, 51.
ARLES
S. P. 15,606 h.Hotels: Du Forum,** Du Nord.**Delightfully situated on the left bank of the Rhône.Sights: Les Arènes, Roman Ramparts, Antique Theatre, Cathédrale de St. Trophime and Cloister, Les Alyscamps and Tombs, Musée d’Arletan and Musée de la Ville, Palais Constantin.Excursions: Les Baux, Montmajour, Les Saintes Maries.Distances in kilometres: Paris, 730; Tarascon, 17; Avignon, 39; Salon, 40; Marseilles, 91; Aix, 80.
S. P. 15,606 h.
Hotels: Du Forum,** Du Nord.**
Delightfully situated on the left bank of the Rhône.
Sights: Les Arènes, Roman Ramparts, Antique Theatre, Cathédrale de St. Trophime and Cloister, Les Alyscamps and Tombs, Musée d’Arletan and Musée de la Ville, Palais Constantin.
Excursions: Les Baux, Montmajour, Les Saintes Maries.
Distances in kilometres: Paris, 730; Tarascon, 17; Avignon, 39; Salon, 40; Marseilles, 91; Aix, 80.
AVIGNON
Vaucluse. P. 33,891 h.The ancient papal capital in France.Hotels: De l’Europe,*** Du Luxembourg.**Sights: Ancient Ramparts, Palais des Papes, Musée, Pulpit in Eglise St. Pierre, Cathedral of Notre Dame des Doms, Ruined Pont St. Bénézet (Pont d’Avignon).Excursions: Villeneuve-les-Avignon, Fontaine de Vaucluse, Aqueduct of Pont du Gard.Distances in kilometres: Sorgues, 10; Orange, 27; Carpentras, 24; Fontaine de Vaucluse, 28.
Vaucluse. P. 33,891 h.
The ancient papal capital in France.
Hotels: De l’Europe,*** Du Luxembourg.**
Sights: Ancient Ramparts, Palais des Papes, Musée, Pulpit in Eglise St. Pierre, Cathedral of Notre Dame des Doms, Ruined Pont St. Bénézet (Pont d’Avignon).
Excursions: Villeneuve-les-Avignon, Fontaine de Vaucluse, Aqueduct of Pont du Gard.
Distances in kilometres: Sorgues, 10; Orange, 27; Carpentras, 24; Fontaine de Vaucluse, 28.
BANDOL-SUR-MER
Var. 1,616 h.Winter and spring-time station, situated on a lovely bay. Small port, and in no sense a resort as yet.Hotel: Grand Hotel.**Distances in kilometres: Marseilles, 51; Toulon, 21; La Ciotat, 23; Sanary, 5.
Var. 1,616 h.
Winter and spring-time station, situated on a lovely bay. Small port, and in no sense a resort as yet.
Hotel: Grand Hotel.**
Distances in kilometres: Marseilles, 51; Toulon, 21; La Ciotat, 23; Sanary, 5.
BEAULIEU-SUR-MER
Alpes-Maritimes. 1,354 h.Winter station. Beautiful situation on the coast, with groves of pines, olives, etc.Hotels: De Beaulieu,** Empress Hotel.***Distances in kilometres: Nice, 8; Monte Carlo, 18; Grasse, 46; Menton, 49.
Alpes-Maritimes. 1,354 h.
Winter station. Beautiful situation on the coast, with groves of pines, olives, etc.
Hotels: De Beaulieu,** Empress Hotel.***
Distances in kilometres: Nice, 8; Monte Carlo, 18; Grasse, 46; Menton, 49.
CAGNES
Alpes-Maritimes. C. 2,040 h.Winter station and town “pour les artistes-peintres” in other days; now practically a suburb of Nice, to which it is bound by a tram-line.Hotels: Savournin,** De l’Univers.*Sights: Château des Grimaldi.Excursions: Vence, Antibes, Villeneuve-Loubet.Distances in kilometres: Nice, 12; Vence, 10; Antibes, 20.
Alpes-Maritimes. C. 2,040 h.
Winter station and town “pour les artistes-peintres” in other days; now practically a suburb of Nice, to which it is bound by a tram-line.
Hotels: Savournin,** De l’Univers.*
Sights: Château des Grimaldi.
Excursions: Vence, Antibes, Villeneuve-Loubet.
Distances in kilometres: Nice, 12; Vence, 10; Antibes, 20.
CANNES
Alpes-Maritimes. C. 25,350 h.On the Golfe de la Napoule, with Nice the chief centre for Riviera tourists.Hotels: Gallia,*** Suisse,** Gonnet.***Excursions: Iles de Lerins, La Napoule, The Corniche d’Or and the Estérel, Le Cannet, Vallauris, Californie, Croix des Gardes, Grasse, Antibes, Auberge des Adrets.Distances in kilometres: Grasse, 17; Fréjus, 47; St. Raphaël, 43; Nice, 35; Antibes, 12.
Alpes-Maritimes. C. 25,350 h.
On the Golfe de la Napoule, with Nice the chief centre for Riviera tourists.
Hotels: Gallia,*** Suisse,** Gonnet.***
Excursions: Iles de Lerins, La Napoule, The Corniche d’Or and the Estérel, Le Cannet, Vallauris, Californie, Croix des Gardes, Grasse, Antibes, Auberge des Adrets.
Distances in kilometres: Grasse, 17; Fréjus, 47; St. Raphaël, 43; Nice, 35; Antibes, 12.
CASSIS
Var. 1,972 h.A charming little Mediterranean port; near by the ancient château of the Seigneurs of Baux.Hotel: Lieutand.*Distances in kilometres: Marseilles, 31; La Ciotat, 11; Bandol, 34.
Var. 1,972 h.
A charming little Mediterranean port; near by the ancient château of the Seigneurs of Baux.
Hotel: Lieutand.*
Distances in kilometres: Marseilles, 31; La Ciotat, 11; Bandol, 34.
CIOTAT (LA)
Bouches-du-Rhône. C. 9,895 h.Great ship-building works, but beautifully situated on Baie de la Ciotat.Hotel: De l’Univers.**Distances in kilometres: Cassis, 11; Marseilles, 43.
Bouches-du-Rhône. C. 9,895 h.
Great ship-building works, but beautifully situated on Baie de la Ciotat.
Hotel: De l’Univers.**
Distances in kilometres: Cassis, 11; Marseilles, 43.
COGOLIN
Var. 2,102 h.Delightfully situated in the valley of the Giscle, at the head of the Golfe de St. Tropez.Hotel: Cauvet.*Sights: Butte des Moulins, Château des Grimaldi.Excursions: Grimaud and La Garde-Freinet.Distances in kilometres: St. Tropez, 10; Fréjus, 34; Nice, 104; St. Raphaël, 37; Hyères, 44; Toulon, 62.
Var. 2,102 h.
Delightfully situated in the valley of the Giscle, at the head of the Golfe de St. Tropez.
Hotel: Cauvet.*
Sights: Butte des Moulins, Château des Grimaldi.
Excursions: Grimaud and La Garde-Freinet.
Distances in kilometres: St. Tropez, 10; Fréjus, 34; Nice, 104; St. Raphaël, 37; Hyères, 44; Toulon, 62.
FRÉJUS
Var. C. 3,612 h.Hotels: Du Midi.*Sights: Roman Arena (Ruins), Old Ramparts, Citadel, Cathedral (XI. and XII. centuries), and Bishop’s Palace.Excursions: St. Raphaël and the Corniche d’Or, Auberge des Adrets and Route de l’Estérel, Mont Vinaigre (616 metres).Distances in kilometres: Cannes, 35; Nice, 78; St. Raphaël, 3; Ste. Maxime, 21.
Var. C. 3,612 h.
Hotels: Du Midi.*
Sights: Roman Arena (Ruins), Old Ramparts, Citadel, Cathedral (XI. and XII. centuries), and Bishop’s Palace.
Excursions: St. Raphaël and the Corniche d’Or, Auberge des Adrets and Route de l’Estérel, Mont Vinaigre (616 metres).
Distances in kilometres: Cannes, 35; Nice, 78; St. Raphaël, 3; Ste. Maxime, 21.
GRASSE
Alpes-Maritimes. S. P. 9,426 h.More or less of a Riviera resort, though seventeen kilometres from the coast at Cannes, situated at an altitude of 333 metres.Hotels: Grand Hotel,*** De la Poste.**Sights: Cathedral (XII. and XIII. centuries), Jardin Public, La Cours, Source de la Foux, Sommet au Jeu de Ballon.Excursions: Ste. Cezane, Dolmens, Grottes, Source de la Siagnole, Le Bar and Gorges du Loup.Distances in kilometres: Cannes, 17; Cagnes, 20; Le Bar, 10; Vence, 28; Draguignan, 59.
Alpes-Maritimes. S. P. 9,426 h.
More or less of a Riviera resort, though seventeen kilometres from the coast at Cannes, situated at an altitude of 333 metres.
Hotels: Grand Hotel,*** De la Poste.**
Sights: Cathedral (XII. and XIII. centuries), Jardin Public, La Cours, Source de la Foux, Sommet au Jeu de Ballon.
Excursions: Ste. Cezane, Dolmens, Grottes, Source de la Siagnole, Le Bar and Gorges du Loup.
Distances in kilometres: Cannes, 17; Cagnes, 20; Le Bar, 10; Vence, 28; Draguignan, 59.
HYÈRES
Var. C. 9,949 h.The oldest and most southerly of the French Mediterranean resorts.Hotels: Grand Hotel,*** Hôtel des Hespérides.**Sights: Eglise St. Louis (XII. century), Château, Place, and Ave. des Palmiers, Jardin d’Acclimation.Excursions: Mont des Oiseaux, Salines d’Hyères, Giens and the Iles d’Or (Iles d’Hyères).
Var. C. 9,949 h.
The oldest and most southerly of the French Mediterranean resorts.
Hotels: Grand Hotel,*** Hôtel des Hespérides.**
Sights: Eglise St. Louis (XII. century), Château, Place, and Ave. des Palmiers, Jardin d’Acclimation.
Excursions: Mont des Oiseaux, Salines d’Hyères, Giens and the Iles d’Or (Iles d’Hyères).
MARSEILLES
Bouches-du Rhône. P. 396,033 h.The second city of France, and the first Mediterranean port.Hotels: Du Louvre et de la Paix,*** Grand Hotel,*** De la Poste, Du Touring (the two latter for rooms only—2 francs 50 centimes and upwards).Sights: Cannebière, Bourse, Vieux Port, Pointe des Catalans, N. D. de la Garde, Palais de Longchamps, Chemin de la Corniche, Le Prado, Cathedral Ste. Marie Majeure.Excursions: Château d’If, Martigues, Sausset, Carry, Port de Bouc, Aubagne, Roquevaire, Grotte de la Ste. Baume, Estaque.Distances in kilometres: Paris, 818; Avignon, 97; Arles, 91; Salon, 51; Martigues, 40; Aix, 28; Toulon, 64.
Bouches-du Rhône. P. 396,033 h.
The second city of France, and the first Mediterranean port.
Hotels: Du Louvre et de la Paix,*** Grand Hotel,*** De la Poste, Du Touring (the two latter for rooms only—2 francs 50 centimes and upwards).
Sights: Cannebière, Bourse, Vieux Port, Pointe des Catalans, N. D. de la Garde, Palais de Longchamps, Chemin de la Corniche, Le Prado, Cathedral Ste. Marie Majeure.
Excursions: Château d’If, Martigues, Sausset, Carry, Port de Bouc, Aubagne, Roquevaire, Grotte de la Ste. Baume, Estaque.
Distances in kilometres: Paris, 818; Avignon, 97; Arles, 91; Salon, 51; Martigues, 40; Aix, 28; Toulon, 64.
MARTIGUES
Bouches-du-Rhône. C. 4,689 h.“La Venise Provençale,” celebrated for “bouillabaisse.”Hotel: Chabas.*Sights: Canals and Bourdigues, Eglise de la Madeleine, Etang de Berre.Excursions: Port de Bouc, St. Mitre (Saracen hill town), Istres, Fos-sur-Mer, Châteauneuf-les-Martigues, St. Chamas and Cap Couronne.
Bouches-du-Rhône. C. 4,689 h.
“La Venise Provençale,” celebrated for “bouillabaisse.”
Hotel: Chabas.*
Sights: Canals and Bourdigues, Eglise de la Madeleine, Etang de Berre.
Excursions: Port de Bouc, St. Mitre (Saracen hill town), Istres, Fos-sur-Mer, Châteauneuf-les-Martigues, St. Chamas and Cap Couronne.
MENTON
Alpes-Maritimes. C. 8,917 h.
The most conservative of all the popular Riviera resorts.Hotels: Des Anglais,*** Grand.*Sights: Jardin Public, Promenade du Midi, Tête de Chien.Excursions: Cap Martin, Italian Frontier, Castillon, Gorbio, Roquebrune.Distances in kilometres: Monte Carlo, 8; La Turbie, 14; Roquebrune, 4; Nice, 30; Grasse, 64.
The most conservative of all the popular Riviera resorts.
Hotels: Des Anglais,*** Grand.*
Sights: Jardin Public, Promenade du Midi, Tête de Chien.
Excursions: Cap Martin, Italian Frontier, Castillon, Gorbio, Roquebrune.
Distances in kilometres: Monte Carlo, 8; La Turbie, 14; Roquebrune, 4; Nice, 30; Grasse, 64.
MONTE CARLO
Principality of Monaco.Hotels: Metropole,*** De l’Europe,** Du Littoral.*Sights: Casino and Salles de Jeu and de Fête, Palais des Beaux Arts, Serres Blanc.Excursions: La Turbie, Mont Agel, Cap Martin.Distances in kilometres: Paris, 1,017; Menton, 8; Nice, 19.
Principality of Monaco.
Hotels: Metropole,*** De l’Europe,** Du Littoral.*
Sights: Casino and Salles de Jeu and de Fête, Palais des Beaux Arts, Serres Blanc.
Excursions: La Turbie, Mont Agel, Cap Martin.
Distances in kilometres: Paris, 1,017; Menton, 8; Nice, 19.
NICE
Alpes-Maritimes. P. 78,480 h.The chief Riviera resort and headquarters.Hotels: Gallia,*** Des Palmiers,*** Des Deux Mondes.**Sights: Casino, Promenade des Anglais, Jardin, Mont Baron, and Parc du Château.Excursions: Cimiez, Villefranche, St. Andre, Cap Ferrat, La Grande Corniche, Eze.Distances in kilometres: Paris, 998; Cannes, 35; Grasse, 38; Cagnes, 12; Fréjus, 66; Menton, 30; Monte Carlo, 19.
Alpes-Maritimes. P. 78,480 h.
The chief Riviera resort and headquarters.
Hotels: Gallia,*** Des Palmiers,*** Des Deux Mondes.**
Sights: Casino, Promenade des Anglais, Jardin, Mont Baron, and Parc du Château.
Excursions: Cimiez, Villefranche, St. Andre, Cap Ferrat, La Grande Corniche, Eze.
Distances in kilometres: Paris, 998; Cannes, 35; Grasse, 38; Cagnes, 12; Fréjus, 66; Menton, 30; Monte Carlo, 19.
SAINT RAPHAËL
Var. 2,982 h.Hotel: Continental.***Sights: Boulevard du Touring, Lion de Terre, and Lion de Mer, Eglise, Maison Close (Alphonse Karr), Maison Gounod.Excursions: La Corniche d’Or, Agay, Ste. Baume, Cap Roux, Valescure, Anthéore, Thèoule, Forêt and Route d’Estérel.Distances in kilometres: Nice, 60; Cannes, 43; Fréjus, 3.
Var. 2,982 h.
Hotel: Continental.***
Sights: Boulevard du Touring, Lion de Terre, and Lion de Mer, Eglise, Maison Close (Alphonse Karr), Maison Gounod.
Excursions: La Corniche d’Or, Agay, Ste. Baume, Cap Roux, Valescure, Anthéore, Thèoule, Forêt and Route d’Estérel.
Distances in kilometres: Nice, 60; Cannes, 43; Fréjus, 3.
SAINT TROPEZ
Var. C. 3,141 h.Hotel: Continental.*Excursions: La Foux, Grimaud, Cogolin, Ste. Maxime, Baie de Cavalaire.Distances in kilometres: Marseilles, 120; Nice, 90; Cogolin, 10; St. Raphaël, 43.
Var. C. 3,141 h.
Hotel: Continental.*
Excursions: La Foux, Grimaud, Cogolin, Ste. Maxime, Baie de Cavalaire.
Distances in kilometres: Marseilles, 120; Nice, 90; Cogolin, 10; St. Raphaël, 43.
SALON
Bouches-du-Rhône. C. 9,324 h.Hotel: Grand Hotel.*Sights: Eglise (XVI. century), Ramparts, Tomb of Nostradamus.Excursions: St. Chamas, Berre, Pont Flavian, La Crau, Les Baux.Distances in kilometres: Marseilles, 53; St. Chamas, 16; Aix, 33; Orgon, 18.
Bouches-du-Rhône. C. 9,324 h.
Hotel: Grand Hotel.*
Sights: Eglise (XVI. century), Ramparts, Tomb of Nostradamus.
Excursions: St. Chamas, Berre, Pont Flavian, La Crau, Les Baux.
Distances in kilometres: Marseilles, 53; St. Chamas, 16; Aix, 33; Orgon, 18.
SOLLIÈS-PONT
Var. C. 2,100 h.Hotel: Des Voyageurs.*Excursions: Valley of the Gapeau and Forêt des Maures, Cuers, Montrieux.Distances in kilometres: Marseilles, 90; Toulon, 15; Besse, 25; St. Raphaël, 77.
Var. C. 2,100 h.
Hotel: Des Voyageurs.*
Excursions: Valley of the Gapeau and Forêt des Maures, Cuers, Montrieux.
Distances in kilometres: Marseilles, 90; Toulon, 15; Besse, 25; St. Raphaël, 77.
ST. RÉMY
Bouches-du-Rhône. C. 3,624 h.Hotel: Grand Hotel de Provence.*Sights: Fontaine de Nostradamus, Temple de Constantin, Mausolée and Arc de Triomphe.Excursions: Tarascon, Les Alpilles, Montmajour, Les Baux, Fontaine de Vaucluse, Pont du Gard.Distances in kilometres: Arles, 20; Les Baux, 8; Avignon, 19; Cavaillon, 18.
Bouches-du-Rhône. C. 3,624 h.
Hotel: Grand Hotel de Provence.*
Sights: Fontaine de Nostradamus, Temple de Constantin, Mausolée and Arc de Triomphe.
Excursions: Tarascon, Les Alpilles, Montmajour, Les Baux, Fontaine de Vaucluse, Pont du Gard.
Distances in kilometres: Arles, 20; Les Baux, 8; Avignon, 19; Cavaillon, 18.
TOULON
Var. S. P. 78,833 h.Hotel: Grand Hotel,*** Victoria.**Sights: Cathedral Ste. Marie Majeure (XI. century), Harbour, Hôtel de Ville, Maison Puget.Excursion: Gorges d’Ollioules, Tamaris, Batterie des Hommes Sans Peur, St. Mandrier, Cap Brun, Cap Sicié, La Seyne, Six-Fours, Sanary.Distances in kilometres: Aix, 75; Marseilles, 65; Nice, 163; Cannes, 128.
Var. S. P. 78,833 h.
Hotel: Grand Hotel,*** Victoria.**
Sights: Cathedral Ste. Marie Majeure (XI. century), Harbour, Hôtel de Ville, Maison Puget.
Excursion: Gorges d’Ollioules, Tamaris, Batterie des Hommes Sans Peur, St. Mandrier, Cap Brun, Cap Sicié, La Seyne, Six-Fours, Sanary.
Distances in kilometres: Aix, 75; Marseilles, 65; Nice, 163; Cannes, 128.
The traveller by road or by rail in France should, if he would appreciate all the charms and attractions of the places along his route, provide himself with one or the other of the excellent road maps which may be purchased at the “Libraire” in any large town.
Much will be opened up to him which otherwise mightremain hidden, for, excellent as many guide-books are in other respects (and those of Joanne in France lead the world for conciseness and attractiveness), they are all wofully inadequate as regards general maps. Really, one should supplement his French guide-books with the remarkably practical “Guide-Michelin,” which all automobilists (of all lands) know, or ought to know, and which is distributed free to them by Michelin et Cie., of Clermont-Ferrand. Others must exercise considerable ingenuity if they wish to possess one of these condensed guides, with its scores and scores of maps and plans. The Continental Gutta Percha Company does the thing even more elaborately, but its volume is not so compact.
Both books, in addition to their numerous maps and plans, give much information as to roads and routes which others as well as automobilists will find most interesting reading, besides which will be found a list of hotels, the statement as to whether or not they are affiliated with the Automobile Club de France, or The Touring Club de France, and a general outline of the price of their accommodation, and what, in many cases, is of far more importance, the kind of accommodation which they offer. It is worth something to modern travellers to know whether a hotel which he intends to favour with his gracious presence has a “Salle de Bains,” a “Chambre Noire,” or “Chambres Hygiéniques, genre du Touring Club.” To the traveller of a generation ago this meant nothing, but it means a good deal to the present age.
As for general maps of France, the Carte de l’Etat-Major (scale of 80,000, on which one measures distances of two kilometres by the diametre of a sou) are to be bought everywhere at thirty centimes per quarter-sheet. The Carte du Service Vicinal, on the scale of 100,000and printed in five colours, costs eighty centimes per sheet; and that of the Service Géographique de l’Armée (reduced by lithography from the scale of 80,000) costs one franc fifty centimes per sheet.
There is also the newly issued Carte Touriste de la France of the Touring Club de France (on a scale of 400,000), printed in six colours and complete in fifteen sheets at two francs fifty centimes per sheet.
enlarge-image
Finally there is the very beautiful Carte de l’Estérel, of special interest to Riviera tourists, also issued by the Touring Club de France.
The Cartes “Taride” are a remarkable and useful series, covering France in twenty-five sheets, at a franc per sheet. They are on a very large scale and are well printed in three colours, showing all rivers, railways, and nearly every class of road or path, together with distances in kilometres plainly marked. They are quite the most useful and economical maps of France for the automobilist, cyclist, and even the traveller by rail.
The house of De Dion-Bouton also issues an attractive map on a scale of 800,000 and printed in four colours.
enlarge-imageThe “Taride” MapsThe “Taride” Maps
The “Taride” Maps
The four sheets are sold at eight francs per sheet, but they are better suited for wall maps than for portable practicability.
The travel routes to and through Provence and the Riviera are in no way involved, and on the whole are rather more pleasantly disposed than in many parts, in that places of interest are not widely separated.
The railroad is the hurried traveller’s best aid, and the all-powerful and really progressive P. L. M. Railway of France covers, with its main lines and ramifications, quite all of Provence, the Midi, and the Riviera.
Marseilles is perhaps the best gateway for the Riviera proper and the coast towns westward to the Rhône, and Avignon or Arles for the interior cities of Provence. Paris is in close and quick connection with both Arles and Marseilles bytrain express,train rapide, or the more leisurelytrain omnibus, with fares varying accordingly, and taking from ten to twenty hoursen route, there being astonishing differences in time between thetrains ordinairesand thetrains rapidesall over France. Fares from Paris to Arles are 87 francs, first class; 58 francs 75 centimes, second class; and 38 francs 30 centimes, third class; and from Paris to Marseilles, 96 francs 55 centimes, 65 francs 15 centimes, and 42 francs 50 centimes respectively. In addition, there are all kinds of extra charges for passage on the “Calais-Nice-Ventimille Rapide” and other trainsde luxe, not overlooking the exorbitant charge of something like 70 francs for a sleeping-car berth from Paris to Marseilles—and always there are too few to go around even at this price.
enlarge-imageThree Riviera Itineraries No. 21—First class, 29 fcs.; Second class, 21 fcs.; Third-class, 14 fcs. No. 22— “ 8 fcs. 50c. “ 6 fcs. “ 4 fcs. 50c. No. 23— “ 17 fcs. “ 14 fcs. 50c. “ 10 fcs. 50c.
From either Arles or Marseilles one may thread themain routes of Provence by many branches of the “P. L. M.” or its “Chemins Regionaux du Sud de France;” can penetrate the little-known region bordering upon the Étang de Berre and enter the Riviera proper either by Marseilles or by the inland route, through Aix-en-Provence, Brignoles, and Draguignan, coming to the coast through Grasse to Cannes or Nice.
The traveller from afar, from America, or England, or from Russia or Germany, is quite as well catered for as the Frenchman who would enjoy the charms of Provence and the Riviera, for there are through express-trains from Calais, Boulogne, Brussels, Berlin, St. Petersburg, Vienna, and Genoa. Now that the tide of travel from America has so largely turned Mediterraneanward, the south of France bids fair to become as familiar a touring ground as the Switzerland of old,—with this difference, that it has an entrance by sea, via Genoa or Marseilles.
For the traveller by road there are untold charms which he who goes by rail knows not of. The magnificent roadways of France—the “Routes Nationales” and the “Routes Départmentales”—are nowhere kept in better condition, or are they better planned than here. East and west and across country they run in superb alignment, always mounting gently any topographical eminence with which they meet, in a way which makes a journey by road through Provence one of the most enjoyable experiences of one’s life.
The diligence has pretty generally disappeared, but an occasional stage-coach may be found connecting two not too widely separated points, and inquiry at any stopping-place will generally elicit information regarding a two, three, or six hour journey which will prove aconsiderable novelty to the traveller who usually is hurried through a lovely country by rail.
For the automobilist, or even the cyclist, still greater is the pleasure of travel by the highroads and by-roads of this lovely country, and for them a skeleton itinerary has been included among the appendices of this book with some useful elements which are often not shown by the guide-books.
The “Voitures Publiques” in Provence, as elsewhere, leave much to be desired, starting often at inconveniently early or late hours in order to correspond with the postal arrangements of the government; but, whenever one can be found that fits in with the time at one’s disposal, it offers an opportunity of seeing the country at a price far below that of thevoiture particulière. Here and there, principally in the mountainous regions lying back from the coast, the “Societies and Syndicats d’Initiative,” which are springing up all over the popular tourist regions in France, have inaugurated services bycars-alpinsand char-à-bancs, and even automobile omnibuses, which offer considerably more comfort.
Concerning the hotels and restaurants of Provence and the Riviera much could be said; but this is no place for an exhaustive discussion.
Generally speaking, the fare at thetable d’hôtethroughout Provence is bountiful and excellent, with perhaps too often, and too strong, a trace of garlic, and considerably more than a trace of olive-oil.
At Aix, Arles, Avignon, and Orange one gets an imitation of a Parisiantable d’hôteat all of the leading hotels; but in the small towns, Cavaillon, Salon, Martigues, Grimaud, or Vence, one is nearer the soil and meets with the realcuisine du pays, which the writerassumes is one of the things for which one leaves the towns behind.
At Marseilles, and all the great Riviera resorts, thecuisine françaiseis just about what the same thing is in San Francisco, New York, or London,—no better or no worse. As for price, the modest six or eight francs a day in the hotels of the small towns becomes ten francs in cities like Aix or Arles, and from fifteen francs to anything you like to pay at Marseilles, Cannes, Nice, or Monte Carlo.
METRICAL AND ENGLISH WEIGHTS AND MEASURES