THE ROAD TO RHEIMS AT NEUVILLETTETHE ROAD TO RHEIMS AT NEUVILLETTE
THE GLASS-WORKS AT NEUVILLETTETHE GLASS-WORKS AT NEUVILLETTE
DRESSING-STATION AT NEUVILLETTEDRESSING-STATION AT NEUVILLETTE
THE CEMETERY AT NEUVILLETTETHE CEMETERY AT NEUVILLETTE
This Itinerary will lead the tourist through the region of theForts to the north-east of Rheims, which formed the rear of the German lines during the stabilisation period of 1914-1918.
It was this line of forts that, in the German hands, held the French in check after the first Battle of the Marne. Practically the whole of these works were but little damaged by the relatively light bombardments, and have retained traces of the German organisation.
Leave Rheims by the Avenue de Laon(which begins atLes Pomenades,opposite Mars Gate),and the Rue de Neufchâtel (second street on the right), Sortie No. IX. of the Michelin Tourist Guide (see coloured plan, pp.32-33).
RUINS OF THE CHURCH AT BOURGOGNERUINS OF THE CHURCH AT BOURGOGNE
Follow in the contrary direction the route described in the preceding Itinerary (p.134to p.159) as far as the crossing in the Berméricourt-Bourgogne road, where stoodLandau Farm, now entirely in ruins.At this crossing take G.C. 30 on the right.German camouflaging is still visible on the right-hand side of the road.
The village ofBourgogne, entirely in ruins,is soon reached.
The village is of very ancient origin. Formerly it was protected by a belt of moats, now partly filled in, and by earthen ramparts, almost everywhere levelled. The lines of these moats, planted with rows of elm-trees, are clearly distinguishable. There is a very extensive view from this original site.
A portion of the village was burnt by the Germans who, in 1916, destroyed the belfry of the church with dynamite.
This church (dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul), with its fine Romanesque tower, was remarkable.
The greater part of it dated from the 12th and 13th centuries. It is now in ruins (photo above).
Cross straight through the village.Numerous German signsare still to be seen. At the cross-roads just outside the village, follow the railway, then cross it near the destroyed railway station of Fresnes. The village ofFresnesis reached shortly afterwards.
Turn to the right at the first crossing met with.The churchstands about 100 yards away, on the left.
Norman in style, the Church of Fresnes comprises a central nave with aisles and a tower without transept. It dates back to the 12th century, but was several times extensively altered and restored both in the 18th century and in recent times.
A small porch of limestone added to the northern aisle, is reached by a round Norman bay of stone. In the corner of the porch, to the left on entering, is incrusted a fragment of a small funerary monument of the 16th century.
RUINED CHURCH OF WITRY-LES-REIMSRUINED CHURCH OF WITRY-LES-REIMS
This church was almost entirely destroyed.
After turning to the right at the crossing mentioned above, keep straight on.
About 2 kilometres from Fresnes the road from that village to Witry-les-Reims crosses an old Roman causeway, at the side of which, slightly to the south of Hill 118, the Fort of Fresnes was built in 1878. This fort was blown up by the Germans during their retreat in 1918. Its ruins are impressive. In the moats of the fort are German trenches and shelters extending right up to the walls of the fort.
The village of Witry-les-Reims is next reached.It suffered severely from the numerous bombardments, which its situation near the first lines rendered inevitable.
After crossing the railway (l.c.) at the entrance to the village, keep straight on.The ruined churchis on the left, near the entrance to the village.
Except for one tower, which dates from the 12th century, the church is modern. The spire was destroyed by the Germans. The belfry, used by the enemy as an observation-post, was struck by French shells.
Like many of the villages around Rheims, Witry-les-Reims is of Gallo-Roman origin. More than two hundred Gallic sepulchres and cinerary urns have been brought to light. The objects thus discovered, including a large number of vases, now form theBourinpre-historic collection.
After visiting the church keep straight on. At the Mairie, of which only the front remains standing,turn to the right into the Rue Boucton-Fayréaux. Follow this street to the Place Gambetta (about 200 yards distant), where turn to the left.The entrance to "Pommern Tunnel," which connected up the German rear and front lines (photo, p.163), is in this square.
The German inscriptions in the tunnel have been taken down, and the entrance blocked up, on account of the roof and walls giving way.
ENTRANCE TO "POMMERN TUNNEL" AT WITRY-LES-REIMSENTRANCE TO "POMMERN TUNNEL" AT WITRY-LES-REIMS
Leaving the Place Gambetta, take the Rheims-Rethel road (N. 51) on the left, then the first street on the right to theFort of Witry.
Just outside the village the road crossesthe old Roman causeway from Rheims to Trèves,and a little further on passes to the left of theFort of Witry.
TheFort of Witrysuffered but little from the bombardments.
The road climbs the northern slopes of theBerru Hill, across numerous German trenches.At the bottom of a short run-down, opposite the village of Berru, is a crossing of four ways. The road leading to the fort is the one straight ahead.
On the right, among thenumerous defences, is a German cemetery containing a monument to the dead, ornamented with somewhat rudimentary carving and bearing an epitaph dedicated to the memory of the German soldiers who fell in the battles around Rheims.
The road continues up the slopes of Berru Hill, to the right of the way leading to theauxiliary battery of the fort ofVigie de Berru.The top of the hill is soon reached, on which the fort, known as the "Vigie de Berru," stands. This fort was little bombarded, and is practically intact.
Berru Hill, on account of its height, its sulphurous and ferruginous waters, flint quarries, and fertile soil, was inhabited in pre-historic times. At the summit, acampignienworkshop, and farther down, above the springs which supply the village with water, a neolithic station have been discovered. Thousands of knives, arrow-heads, scrapers, saws, and other primitive tools have been unearthed. In the Gallo-Roman times the village must have been fairly important, judging by the vestiges of the ancient buildings discovered at the foot of the hill. It was near Berru that theGaulish helmet, now in the National Museum of St. Germain, was found. Towards the end of the 16th century (about 1575), during the Leaguers' struggles around Rheims, the village was fortified, to protect it from pillaging by the soldiers. The moats and glacis which surrounded it are still visible to the south, where, covered with trees, they adjoin the gardens. Subterranean places of refuge, the entrance to which is no longer known, formerly existed underneath the village.
From the fort, the road, winds down the opposite slopes of the hill. At the bottom of the latter, leave on the right the road to theFort of Nogent l'Abbesse,seen on the high ground to the right.
ENTRANCE TO BEINE VILLAGE BY THE ROAD TO NOGENT L'ABBESSEENTRANCE TO BEINE VILLAGE BY THE ROAD TO NOGENT L'ABBESSE
The village ofNogent l'Abbesseis next reached, at the entrance to which the road divides into three branches. Take the middle one (G.C. 64), which leads to theruined village ofBeine.During the run-down to the village, there is afine view of the Champagne Hills in front (Mont Cornillet and Mont Haut).
The village ofBeinewas one of the oldest demesnes belonging to the Abbey of St. Remi-de-Reims. It was made into acommuneat the end of the 12th century.
The church of St. Laurent, situated in the centre of the village, was an excellent specimen of the transition style of the 12th century (photo below).
RUINS OF THE CHURCH AT BEINERUINS OF THE CHURCH AT BEINE
A road leading to Sillery leaves Beine in a south-westerly direction, but owing to its bad condition it is impossible to use it for returning to Rheims.The trenches and shell holes have barely been filled in, and the temporary bridges over the wider trenches would probably break down under a fairly heavy car. On the other hand, the huge craters made by the Germans in the course of their retreat, have only been summarily repaired and are not practicable for motor-cars.Tourists should therefore return to Nogent l'Abbesse by the road they came by.
BERRU CHURCHBERRU CHURCH
Enter the village by the main street, which follow as far asthe church, whose belfry has been destroyed.
After the church, take the first street on the right, then the second road on the left (G.C. 64), which leads toBerru.In front of the village, turn to the left and cross straight through.The 12th century Church of St. Martin, which suffered only slightly from the bombardments,is in the middle of the village, on the left (photo above).
On leaving Berru, the tourist comes again to the crossing mentioned on p.163. Turn to the right and return to Witry-les-Reims by the road previously followed.
At Witry-les-Reims, take N. 51 on the left, passing by theruined works of Linguet (photo below).
Rheims is reached by the Faubourg Cérès. Keep straight on to the Place Royale, via the Rue du Faubourg Cérès and the Rue Cérès.
RUINS OF THE LINGUET WORKSRUINS OF THE LINGUET WORKS
This Itinerary will take the tourist through two regions of entirely different characters.
The first part is devoted to visiting the battlefield south-east of Rheims, which was the scene of much desperate fighting throughout the war, but especially in 1918. This region formed the pivot of the French right wing, and remained firm despite the repeated powerful attacks of the enemy.
The second part of the Itinerary leaves the battlefield proper, and conducts the tourist acrossthe most reputed vine-growing centres of Champagne (Verzenay, Mailly-Champagne and Ludes), through lovely, picturesque country, which, although it has somewhat suffered from the bombardments, has nevertheless retained its pre-war aspect.
Leave Rheims by the Avenue de Châlons, continued by N. 44 (see the plan of Rheims between pp.32and33, F. 6 and H. 7).
The Avenue de Châlons was well within the first-line defences.
Two communicating trenches run along the footpaths on either side of the Avenue.
SkirtPommery Park,on the left, completely ravaged by the bombardment and the network of trenches which cross it.
As soon as the last houses of the town have been left behind, the tourist finds himselfin the midst of the battlefield.
The sector, known as "La Butte-de-Tir," situated on the left, below Cernay and beyond the railway, was the scene of furious fighting throughout the German occupation of 1914 to 1918 (photo below).
THE "BUTTE-DE-TIR" SECTOR Listening-post in front of Cernay village.THE "BUTTE-DE-TIR" SECTORListening-post in front of Cernay village.
COMMUNICATING TRENCH AT JOUISSANCE FARM (1915)COMMUNICATING TRENCH AT JOUISSANCE FARM (1915)
The road crosses the Châlons Railway (l.c.), and goes thence direct to theFort of La Pompelle, passing through an inextricable network of trenches and barbed wire entanglements. The country hereabouts was completely ravaged by the terrific bombardments, and recalls the devastated regions around Verdun, near Vaux and Douaumont (see the Michelin Illustrated Guide: Verdun, and the Battles for its Possession).
La Jouissance Farmis next passed. Nothing remains either of it or of the road,which started from this point towards Cernay, on the left.
LA POMPELLE FORT (1918)LA POMPELLE FORT (1918)
THE MOATS OF LA POMPELLE FORT (1918)THE MOATS OF LA POMPELLE FORT (1918)
TheFort of La Pompelle,which is next reached, is now a mere heap of ruins. The road which led to the fort no longer exists.To visit the ruins of the fort, tourists will have to follow on foot the narrow-gauge railway which starts from the road (photo above).
Tradition has it that St. Timothy came from Asia to convert Rheims, suffered martyrdom, together with St. Apollinaris and several companions, on the hill known asLa Pompelle, so-called perhaps from the procession (pompaorpompella) which, in the Middle Ages, used to visit the place of martyrdom of the saints.
This hill, which rises close to the crossing of the Rheims-St.-Hilaire-le-Grand and Rheims-Châlons Roads, was fortified after 1870, to flank the position of Berru on the south.
The road from Rheims to Saint-Hilaire-le-Grand (G.C. 7), which used to start from the "Alger Inn," at the cross-roads mentioned above, no longer exists. Like the inn, it was obliterated by the shelling. A huge crater now occupies the site of the Alger Inn (photo below).
CRATER, WHERE USED TO STAND THE "ALGER INN"CRATER, WHERE USED TO STAND THE "ALGER INN"
THE IMMEDIATE VICINITY OF WHAT WAS THE "ALGER INN" (1918)THE IMMEDIATE VICINITY OF WHAT WAS THE "ALGER INN" (1918)
Continue along N. 44. About 1 kilometre from the fort, at a bend in the road, the shattered remnants of trees of an avenue are visible on the left. Under the first fir-tree of this avenue, about 20 yards from the national road, is an armoured machine-gun shelter, almost intact.
Cross the railway (l.c.) near the entirely destroyed station of Petit-Sillery. After passing a ruined château on the left, cross the bridge over the Vesle. At the fork beyond the bridge, leave N. 44 and take G.C. 8 on the right toSillery.
This village, renowned for its dry wine, is pleasantly situated on the banks of the Vesle. Throughout the war, it was quite close to the trenches and was frequently bombarded. In May, 1916, only some fifty of its inhabitants remained in the village, which subsequently suffered very severely, especially in 1918.
Take a turn in the village, then follow N. 44 towards Châlons (see Itinerary, p.166).
THE "PLACE DE LA MAIRIE" AT SILLERY (1918)THE "PLACE DE LA MAIRIE" AT SILLERY (1918)
The region ofSillery-Pompellewas the scene of much fierce fighting throughout the war. After the capture ofLa Pompelleand the "Alger Inn" by the French 10th Corps on the night of September 17-18, 1914, the Germans increased the number of their attacks, with a view to regaining these important positions.
One of these attacks (that of December 30, 1914) was preceded by the explosion of a mine at the "Alger Inn," which made a hole 130 feet in diameter by 55 feet deep (see photo, p.169). After a hand-to-hand fight, the French drove back the enemy and remained masters of the crater.
In 1918, during their offensives against Rheims, the Germans attacked several times in this region. On June 1, betweenPommery Park(in the south-eastern outskirts of Rheims) and the north-east of Sillery, they attacked with eight or nine battalions and fifteen tanks. The garrison of Fort Pompelle, momentarily encircled, held out until a furious counter-attack by the French Colonial Infantry relieved it and drove back the assailants. The German tanks were either captured or destroyed. On the 18th, after an hour's intense bombardment, the Germans made a fresh attack and secured a footing in the Northern Cemetery of Rheims and in the north-eastern outskirts of Sillery, but French counter-attacks drove them out almost immediately. From July 15 to 17 their attacks on Sillery were likewise repulsed.
Continue along N. 44 to thedestroyed Espérance Farm(about 2 kilometres distant), then turn to the right. Numerous military works were made by the French in the embankments of the Aisne-Marne canal along the left side of the road.
The road rises towards the "Mountain of Rheims."A white tower, dominating the whole plain,is seen on the left (photo below).
Verzenayis next reached by the Rue de Sillery.
VERZENAY, SEEN FROM THE VERZENAY—MAILLY—CHAMPAGNE ROADVERZENAY, SEEN FROM THE VERZENAY—MAILLY—CHAMPAGNE ROAD
THE OLD MILL AT VERZENAYTHE OLD MILL AT VERZENAY
It was atVerzenaythat, on the evening of September 3, 1914, the German aeroplane, which had dropped bombs on Rheims the same morning, was brought down. It has suffered relatively little from the bombardments.
To visit the church, which contains the tomb of Saint-Basle (chapel on the right),take the Rue Gambetta, then the Rue Thiers.
After visiting the church, return to the Rue Thiers, at the end of which is the Rue de Mailly (G.C. 26).
Take the latter, which, on leaving Verzenay, rises fairly stiffly.
At the top of the hill, on the right, begins the road leading toVerzenay Mill, which crowns Hill 227 (see Itinerary, p.166, and photo above).
This mill, whence there is a fine panorama of the plain as far as the hills of Berru and Moronvilliers, was a military observation-post of the first order during the siege warfare.
It belongs to the champagne-wine firm of Heidsieck Monopole, which allows tourists to visit it, as also their vineyards in the surrounding country.
The road dips down toMailly-Champagne,at the entrance to which village turn to the right into the Rue Gambetta, then to the left into the Rue de Ludes (G.C. 26). The road, cut out of the hillside, is very picturesque as far as Ludes. In the forest, on the left of the road, are numerous "cendrières," or quarries, from which volcanic sulphurous cinders, used for improving the vines, are extracted. Heaps of these valuable cinders (grey, white and black) are frequently encountered at the side of the road.
Ludesis next reached by the Avenue de la Gare.
The region just passed through, including the villages of Verzenay, Mailly-Champagne and Ludes, as well as Verzy (to the east), and Rilly-la-Montagne and Villers-Allerand (to the west), are the wine-growing centres of the "Mountain of Rheims" properly so-called, the black grapes from which produce the best brands of Champagne. The villages are picturesquely situated at the edge of the forests which crown the hills, while the vineyards which cover the slopes of the latter descend to the chalky plain. These vineyards, divided into tiny plots, the ground of which before the ravages of the phylloxera cost as much as 93,000 francs per hectare (about 2-1/2 acres), constitute the principal wealth of the country. Here and there they have suffered from the war, but this has not prevented the vine-dressers from cultivating them (often with the help of the soldiers) or from gathering the grapes, under the continual menace of the German guns.
PUISIEULX. THE CHURCH AND ROAD TO SILLERYPUISIEULX. THE CHURCH AND ROAD TO SILLERY
AtLudes, in theAvenue de la Gare, turn to the right into the Rue de Cormontreuil, and again to the right, into the Rue de Puisieulx (G.C. 33).
At the crossing, 1 kilometre beyond Ludes, go straight on. After passing on the right an avenue bordered with trees leading to theChâteau of Romont, Puisieulxis reached.
At the first crossing, on entering the village, keep straight on, then turn to the right as far as theruined church, with its curious loop-holed chevet.Leave the church on the right and, at the end of the village, turn to the left.There are a few graveson the right of the road.After skirting a large estate, the trees of which were destroyed by shell-fire, the tourist reachesSillery.
RUINED CHURCH OF TAISSYRUINED CHURCH OF TAISSY
Turn to the left into G.C. 8, at the entrance to the village. On the right are vestigesof a small wood, known as "Zouaves Wood," which was the scene of many sanguinary fights after its capture by the French in 1914.
The tourist next reachesTaissy, whose ruined churchis on the right, by the side of the Vesle (photo, p.173).
This interesting church is largely Romanesque in style (tower, chevet and nave). The tabernacle, with altar-piece of carved wood, is Louis XIII. A fine wrought-iron railing encloses the sanctuary (photo below). The small, sonorous bell of the belfry is, strange to say, 13th or 14th century.
Pass straight through Taissy, then follow the tram-lines.Cormontreuilis entered by the Rue Victor-Hugo.
From Cormontreuil, the tourist may return to Rheims either by turning to the right in the village, beyond the tram station (in this case he will enter Rheims by the Rue de Cormontreuil which leads to the Place Dieu-Lumière) or by continuing straight ahead. In the latter case he will cross the Faubourg Fléchambault by the Rue Ledru-Rollin. At the end of the latter, turn to the right into the Rue Fléchambault which, after crossing the Vesle and the canal, leads to the Church of St. Remi.
THE CHOIR OF TAISSY CHURCHTHE CHOIR OF TAISSY CHURCH
PAGESPolitical History of Rheims3-7Military History of Rheims8and9The Battles for Rheims, 1914-19189-15The Destruction of Rheims by the bombardments16-21Life in the bombarded City21-26I.—A Visit to the City27-120The Cathedral(description of)28-60History of the Cathedral28-30The Cathedral during the War31and32Coloured Plan of Rheimsbetween32and33Plan of the Cathedral and Archi-episcopal Palace33Exterior of the Cathedral34-49Interior of the Cathedral50-60First Itinerary—The City61-94The Place du Parvis62The Archi-episcopal Palace63-66The Place Drouet d'Erlon and The Promenades70and71The Hôtel-de-Ville72The Place des Marchés74The Place Royale78The Musicians' House80The Mars Gate82The Rue de Cérès87Second Itinerary—The City(continued)95-120The Rue Chanzy95-97The Lycée97and98The Abbey of Saint Pierre-les-Dames98The Pommery Wine-Cellars101The Church of St. Remi103-116The Hôtel-Dieu (Hospital)117II.—A Visit to the Battlefield.First Itinerary(Morning)122-133Ormes124St. Euphraise127Coulommes-la-Montagne128Gueux129Thillois131Second Itinerary (Afternoon)134-159Tinqueux135Merfy137St. Thierry138Villers-Franqueux141Cormicy144Le Godat148Loivre150Brimont152The "Cavaliers de Courcy"156La Neuvillette158Third Itinerary(Morning)160-165Bourgogne—Fresnes161Witry-les-Reims162Nogent l'Abbesse—Beine—Berru164Fourth Itinerary(Afternoon)166-174The Butte-de-Tir167The Fort de la Pompelle168Alger Inn169Verzenay172
THE RUE DE LA GRUE, SEEN FROM THE RUE CÉRÈSTHE RUE DE LA GRUE, SEEN FROM THE RUE CÉRÈS
HERMONVILLE PORCHHERMONVILLE PORCH
PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED,LONDONXII—2,116-8-19-25
Land of rich pastures and fashionable watering-places, Normandy may truly be said to have been "favoured by the gods." Her fertile soil, famous breeds of horses and cattle, picturesque sites, and renowned sea-bathing coast have made Normandy one of France's most flourishing provinces. Numerous splendid monuments evoke in the tourist's mind reminiscences of a glorious past.
No region has been more lavishly adorned by Nature. Its mountain landscapes have caused it to be surnamed "La Petite Suisse." Among the more interesting places may be mentionedBagnoles-de-l'Orne, with its famous mineral-water springs;Rouen, with its celebrated cathedral, churches of St. Ouen and St. Maclou, Palais-de-Justice, and port (which the war has transformed into one of the most important in Europe);Caen—"Norman Athens"—with its Romanesque churches, Renaissance mansions, and ancient houses; the great cathedrals ofSées,Evreux,Bayeux, andCoutances; the feudal ruins ofArques,Château-GaillardandFalaise; the Abbeys ofJumiègesandSt. Wandrille; the mediaeval narrow winding streets ofLisieux.
Numerous sea-side resorts:Dieppe,St. Valéry,Fécamp,Entretat,Le Hâvre, andSt. Adresse,Honfleur,Trouville,Deauville,Villers,Houlgate,Cabourg,CherbourgandGrandvilleare too widely known to call for special mention.
LastlySt. Michael's Mount(surnamed the "Marvel of the West"), with its extraordinary pyramid of superimposed Gothic monastery and Churches, built on a rock in the middle of a deep bay.
All enquiries with regard to travelling should be addressed to the "Touring Club de France," 65, Avenue de la Grande Armée 65, Paris.