Chapter 3

Drawing of a saddle

Light saddles always require a lot of extra stuffing, which soon mounts up the weight and detracts from the looks; moreover it is very inconvenient to be constantly sending one's saddle to be restuffed. Most ladies, from lack of proper supervision and want of thought, are neglectful of the make and condition of their saddles, and so some ribald cynic has hazarded the remark that although "a good man is merciful to his beast, a good woman is rarely so." A first class firm keeps an experienced man for the purpose of measuring horses, who is sent out any distance required at a fixed scale of charges. When a lady cannot conveniently attend to be measured, she should endeavour to get the measurements, as indicated in the sketch, from some saddle in which she can ride with comfort.

Though careful fitting and adjustment of the saddle will reduce friction to a minimum, and will, in the majority of cases, do away with its baneful effects, still with some very highly bred horses the skin of the back is so easily irritated, that during a long day's work, in hot climates especially, it becomes chafed, and injury is inflicted either at the withers or underneath the seat. Nothing is more difficult to deal with and heal than a sore back. In a prolonged and arduous campaign, I have seen regiments seriously reduced below their fighting strength by obstinate sore backs. A very greatdesideratum, in my opinion, is the new "Humanity" sponge-lined numnah, another of Messrs. Champion and Wilton's sensible inventions. This excellent preventative and curative Saddle-cloth keeps the most tender-skinned horse in a position to walk in comfort. It is an adaptation of the finer kind of Turkey sponge, the soft nature of which suggested itself to the inventors as an agent for counteracting saddle friction.

A saddle

It is made in two varieties: (1) of bridle leather, lined at the withers with this fine, natural sponge, thus interposing a soft pad between the saddle and the withers (a point where the chief strain of a lady's seat is brought to bear during the action of the trot); (2) of a fine white felt, lined at the back as well as at the withers with the same quality of sponge, and intended for such horses as are apt to become troubled under the seat of the saddle as well as at the withers. The sponge has to be damped, preferably in warm water, but pressed or wrung out before using, and the leather part kept soft with vaseline, which is an excellent preservative and softener of leather.Each time after use, the sweat should be thoroughly washed out of the sponge; to ensure best results, attention to scrupulous cleanliness is absolutely essential.The following are representations of this numnah.

Inside surface of a saddle

With the safety-bar and the Zenith habit it matters not what form of stirrup a lady uses, for these have done away with the necessity for the so-called safety patterns, of which there are several. The slipper has been objected to, as it, from being so comfortable, encourages ladies to lean their whole weight on it and thus throw themselves out of balance; moreover, it is out of fashion. Mrs. Power O'Donoghue advocates the plain iron racing stirrup, with the foot well home, as by its means the rise or purchase is from the instep, as it ought to be, and not from the toes. The Prussian side-pieces at the bottom take sharp pressure off the sides of the foot. The Victoria and French pad inside the stirrup, except when the safety bar and habit are adopted, are fraught with danger; with these precautions they are a great comfort, and guard the instep at the trot when the foot is thrust well home. The size of the stirrup should be proportionate to the foot.

CHAPTER V.

HINTS UPON COSTUME.

"She wore what was then somewhat universal—a coat, vest, and hat resembling those of a man; which fashion has since called aRiding-Habit."—Diana Vernon,Scott.

"She wore what was then somewhat universal—a coat, vest, and hat resembling those of a man; which fashion has since called aRiding-Habit."—Diana Vernon,Scott.

Under no circumstances does a lady, possessed of good figure and carriage, appear to such great advantage, or is she so fascinating, as when with mien and bearing haught and high, with perfect, well-balanced seat, and light hands, faultlessly appointed, firmly, gently, and with seeming carelessness she controls some spirited high-bred horse, some noble steed of stainless purity of breed, whose rounded symmetry of form, characteristic spring of the tail, and pride of port, proclaim his descent from

"The Silver Arab with his purple veins,The true blood royal of his race."

"The Silver Arab with his purple veins,The true blood royal of his race."

"The Silver Arab with his purple veins,

The true blood royal of his race."

At no time are the beauties of the female form divine displayed with such witching grace, the faultless flowing lines so attractively posed, thetout ensembleso thoroughly patrician. But if there be one blot in the fair picture the whole charm at once vanishes. The incomparable dignity, the well-turned-out steeds—the best that money could buy or critical judgment select—the perfect figure of that superb horsewoman the Empress of Austria, of whom it may justly be said "All the pride of all her race in herself reflected lives," were it possible for Her Imperial Majesty to err in such a matter, would have been of little effect, but for a faultlessly cut and fitting habit.

"Fine feathers make fine birds," and though in riding costume the plumage, save in the hunting-field, must be of sombre tint, it must be unruffled and lie perfectly flat. There are Habit-makers and Habit-makers; a very few as perfect as need be, more médiocre, most arrant bunglers. Of late years legions of so-called ladies'-tailors have sprung into being, not one in a hundred possessing the faintest idea of what is wanted. A Habit-maker is a genius not often met with, and when come across should be made a note of. A perfect fitting habit, though not quite "a joy for ever," is a very useful, long-wearing, and altogether desirable garment. Particular attention must be given to the cutting of the back of the neck to secure plenty of play, and to prevent that disagreeable tightness so often experienced, which completely mars the easy and graceful movement of the head. While giving absolute freedom to the figure, the well shaped body will fit like a glove. A tight habit gives a stiff, inelegant appearance to the whole figure, and produces a feeling of being "cribbed, cabined, and confined," tantamount to semi-suffocation. A too long waist is certain to ride-up and wrinkle. For winter wear there is nothing like the double-breasted body. The choice to select from is a wide one.

THE "ZENITH" HABIT—JACKET BODY.

THE "ZENITH" HABIT—JACKET BODY.

To my mind and eye no one understands the whole art of habit-making so well as Mr. W. Shingleton, 60, New Bond Street, London, the inventor of the patent "Zenith" skirt, an ingenious arrangement which should be universally patronized for its absolute safety, if for no less weighty reason. Any lady wearing this clever and smart combination of skirt and trousers, seated on one of Messrs. Champion and Wilton's safety side-saddles, may set her mind completely at rest as to the possibility of being "hung up" on the pommel, or dragged by it or the stirrup. Perfect freedom in the saddle is secured to the rider, that portion of the skirt which in the ordinary habit fits over the pommel, always a source of danger, being entirely dispensed with. The "Zenith" is made in two breadths or portions, instead of three, as heretofore, and on one side this skirt is attached to the trousers at the "side seam" of the right leg, or leg which passes over the pommel. The skirt is then carried across or over both legs of the trousers in front, and, on the other side, is brought round and attached to the "leg seam" of the left leg and to the "seat seam," both the trousers and the skirt being then secured to the waistband. Thus the rider, as stated above, has the pommel leg free to be readily disengaged from the pommel without the skirt catching thereon, the right leg at the back being left uncovered by the skirt. An opening formed on the left side of the skirt allows of the garment being readily put on. The front draping of the skirt remains unaltered from the usual skirt, but when seen from behind it presents the appearance of one leg covered, the other uncovered. When walking, the back of the right trousers leg, which is uncovered, can be draped somewhat by the front of the skirt being lifted and brought round by the right hand. There is nothing whatever in this invention to offend the most sensitiveequestrienne, nothing to hurt the proper feelings of the most modest. If preferred, the skirt may be provided on each side with a slit, extending down from the knees, so as to enable the wearer to readily use the skirt when wearing breeches or riding boots. That such an enterprising firm as Messrs. Redfern, of Paris, should have secured the patent rights for France, speaks volumes in favour of Mr. Shingleton's really admirable invention.

Except for summer wear in early morning or in the country, and in the case of young girls, when grey is permissible, the habit should be made of some dark cloth. In the hunting-field, on which subject I am not touching in this volume, some ladies who "go" don pink, those patronising the Duke of Beaufort's wearing the becoming livery of the Badminton Hunt, than which nothing is more becoming. Diagonal ribbed cloths are much in vogue for skirts. Stout figures tone down the appearance of too great solidity and rotundity by wearing an adaptation of the military tunic. The long jacket-body, depicted in Mr. Shingleton's sketch of the "Zenith," is well suited to full figures. Waistcoats are all the rage,—blue bird's-eye, plush-leather with pearl buttons, kersey, corduroy, nankeen, etc., in endless variety, and are very much in evidence, as are shirt fronts, high collars, silk ties with sporting-pinà la cavalière. Braiding or ornamentation is bad form; no frilling, no streamers are admissible; everything, to be in good taste, ought to be of the very best, without one inch of superfluous material,—severely simple.

In the Park, except for young ladies just entering on their teens, or children, the tall silk hat isde rigueur. The present prevailing "chimney-pot" or "stove-pipe" model, shaped something like the tompion of a gun, is an unbecoming atrocity. Let us hope that fashion will soon revert to the broad curled brim bell-shaped Hardwicke. Nothing is cheap that's bad, and nothing detracts more from the general effect of a "get-up" than a bad hat. So if my lady reader wants to be thoroughly well hatted, let her go to Ye Hatterie, 105, Oxford Street, and be measured for one of Mr. Heath's best. It will last out two or three of other makers, and having done duty one season in Rotten Row, will look well later on in the wear-and-tear of the hunting field, preserving its bright glossy brilliancy, no matter what the weather be. Order a quilted silk lining in preference to a plain leather one, and, when being measured, let thechevelurebe compact and suited for riding. A low-crowned hat is the best. For young girls, and out of the season, riding melon-shaped or pot-hats of felt are useful and by no means unbecoming. Mr. Heath makes a speciality of these, and has scores of different, and more or less becoming, styles to select from. Hats made to the shape of the head require no elastics to hold them on, and are not the fruitful source of headache which ready-made misfits invariably are. There is no objection to a grey felt with grey gauze veil in the summer, but black with a black veil is in better taste. Anything in the way of colour, other than grey, or, perhaps brown, is inadmissible. I am not sufficient of a Monsieur Mantalini to advise very minutely on such important points as the ladies' toilette, as to what veils may or may not be worn, but a visit to the Park any morning or forenoon, when London is in Town, will best decide. For dusty roads gauze is essential.

Of all abominations and sources of equestrian discomfort a badly built pair of riding-breeches are the worst. No breeches, pants, or trousers can possibly sit well and give absolute comfort in the saddle without flexible hips and belt-band riding-drawers. The best material, and preferable to all silk, is a blend of silk and cashmere, which wears well, is warm, elastic, of permanent elasticity, can be worn with great comfort by the most sensitive, and is not too expensive. A habit should fit like a glove over the hips, and the flexible-hip make of riding-drawers which I advocate, aids in securing this moulding. The fit of the breeches or pants, especially that of the right leg, at the inside of the knee, should be particularly insisted upon. First-class ladies' tailors generally have a model horse on which their customers can mount when trying on. At Messrs. E. Tautz and Sons' establishment, where the rider can be accoutred to perfection, ladies will find a competent assistant of their own sex,—a trained fitter—who will by careful measurement and subsequent "trying on" secure them against the galling miseries of badly cut and ill-fitting breeches. Materials of every description are available; but if the fair reader will be advised by me, she will select brown undressed deer-skin, which is soft, pliable, and durable. The waistbands and continuations are of strong twilled silk. Leggings are generally and preferably worn with the breeches, and can be had in all shades of cloth to go with the habit.

For the colonies and India a new material, known as Dr. Lahmann's cotton-wool underclothing, cannot be too highly commended. In "the gorgeous East," of which abode of the sun I have had some experience, between March and the latter days of October, the thinnest animal-wool is unbearably warm, and, when prickly-heat is about, absolutely unbearable, the irritation produced by the two being, I should imagine, akin to that endured by the four-footed friend of man when suffering acutely from the mange. Moreover, in the clutches of the Indiandhobie(washerman), woollen materials rapidly shrink by degrees and become beautifully less, when not knocked into holes, and are converted into a species of felt.

This fabric is a new departure in the manufacture of cotton. From first to last it is treated as wool, is spun as wool, and woven as wool, and in my opinion is the best possible material for under wear in the tropics. It is cool, wears well, washes well, is warranted not to shrink, does not irritate the most sensitive skin, and, being woven on circular knitting looms, is peculiarly adapted for close-fitting riding-drawers and under-clothing generally. It has the additional merits of having the appearance and colour of silk—a soft cream colour,—is entirely free from dressing, and is moderate in price. As this fabric (porous, knitted, woven, ribbed, or double-ribbed) is sold by the yard as well as made up into seamless pants, jersies, etc., it is admirably suited to the make of flexible-hip and belt-band drawers referred to above. I feel that in directing attention to this "baumwoll" (tree wool) clothing, I am conferring a benefit on all Europeans whose avocations keep them within the tropics, and on those of them especially who are obliged to take constant and prolonged horse exercise. It is to be obtained at the Lahmann Agency, 15, Fore Street, London, E.C.

The question of corsage is an all-important one, as the fit of a garment depends largely on the shape of the corset. For growing girls, and especially for such as are at all delicate and outgrowing their strength, theInvigoratorcorset is the least objectionable I have yet seen. That it has the approval of the faculty is in its favour. It may be described as a corset in combination with a chest-expanding brace, and as such corrects the habit of stooping, and by expanding the chest flattens the back and keeps the shoulder-blades in their right place. Speaking as an ex-adjutant, who has had a good deal of experience in "setting-up-drills," it in my opinion possesses for young people merits far superior to anything of the kind yet brought out. It gives support where most wanted without impeding the freedom of the movements of the body; its elasticity is such that respiration and circulation are not interfered with; the chest is thrown out, the back straightened, preserving an erect figure—the body being kept erect by the cross-straps at the back; it is comfortable to the wearer, and there is no undue pressure anywhere. A riding-stay to be perfect should be as light as possible, consistent with due support, boned throughout with real whalebone, so as to be capable of being bent and twisted without fear of "broken busks," and should fit the figure—not the figure fit it—with glove-like accuracy. Such supple corsets give perfect ease with freedom. The best special maker of riding-corsets for ladies is Madame Festa, 13, Carlos Street, Grosvenor Square, London, W. This artiste's productions combine all that is necessary in material and workmanship, with perfect fit, ease, and grace. A combination of silk elastic and coutil is said to be the ideal material from which really comfortable corsets are made. For winter work they should be lined with a pure natural woollen stuff as soft as a Chuddah shawl. For tropical climates Grass-cloth or Nettle-cloth is strongly recommended.

In this humid, uncertain climate of ours the rider will generally find some sort of light and short waterproof a great comfort. It should be sufficiently long to clear the saddle, and of a material such as will permit of its being rolled up into a small compass for attachment to the Ds of the saddle. Messrs. Lewin and Co., 28, Cockspur Street, S.W. (successors to the old established firm Bax and Co.), makers of the Selby driving-coat, turn out some very neat waterproof tweed or drab garments, which are appropriate and serviceable. Their designs are good, and the material thoroughly to be relied upon.

Well fitting, or in other words, tight gloves, of course, look very well, but horsewomen must preserve free use of their hands. Lightness of hand is an essential, but a certain amount of physical strength cannot be dispensed with, and a tight glove, even of the best quality of kid, means a cramped contraction of the hand and fingers with consequent loss of power. The material, so long as it be stout enough, may be of real buck-skin, stout Suède, dog's-skin, so called, or Cape. The best real buck-skin hunting, driving, and walking-gloves, for either ladies or gentlemen, I have ever come across, are those manufactured by T. P. Lee and Co., 24, Duke Street, Bloomsbury. They are of first-class soft material, well cut, hand-sewn with waxed brown thread, and very durable; in fact, everlasting, and most comfortable wear.

A neat, light hunting-crop, riding-cane, or whipwithout a tassel, are indispensable.

The following is a comfortable and serviceable riding-dress for long country rides, picnics, etc., recommended by a lady who can boast of considerable experience in the saddle both at home and in the colonies—one of a riding family. "Habit—a short hunting-skirt, short enough to walk in with comfort, with jacket (Norfolk?) of the same material, made loose enough to admit of jersey being worn under it, if required; a wide leather belt for the waist, fastening with a buckle. This belt will be found a great comfort and support when on horseback for many hours. Hat of soft felt, or melon-shaped hat. Pantaloons of chamois leather, buttoning close to the ankles. Hussar or Wellington boots made of Peel leather, with moderate-sized heels, tipped with brass, and soles strong but not thick. A leather stud should be sewn on the left boot, about two and a half inches above the heel, on which stud the spur should rest, and thus be kept in its place without tight buckling. The spur found to be the most useful after a trial of many is a rowel spur of plated steel (the flat tapered-side, elastic, five-pointed hunting), about two to two and a half inches long, strong and light, hunting shape, and fastened with a strap and buckle, the foot-strap of plated steel chain. This chain foot-strap looks neater than a leather one, and does not become cut or worn out when on foot on rough, rocky ground. The rowel pin is a screw-pin; thus the rowel can be changed at pleasure, and a sharp or blunt one fitted as required by the horse one rides." [In lieu of chamois leather I would suggest undressed deer-skin, as supplied by Messrs. E. Tautz and Sons, 485, Oxford Street, London, which is as soft as velvet, and needs no additional lining, so apt to crease. And instead of the boots I recommend waterproofed Russia leather or brown hide, such as men use for polo, as manufactured by Faulkner, 52, South Molton Street, London, W., with low, flat heels tipped with mild steel.] The lady's idea, except with regard to the interchangeable rowel, the pin of which must work loose, is good.

This brings me to the much-vexed subject of the Spur, its use and abuse. Ladies should not be mounted on horses requiring severe punishment; but there are occasions, oft and many, when "a reminder" from a sharp-pointed rowel will prove of service. I do not say that lady riders should always wear a persuader; on a free-going, generous horse it would be out of place, irritating, and annoying; but on a lymphatic slug, or in the case of a display of temper, the armed heel is most necessary. We must bear in mind that almost all of the highest priced ladies' horses have been broken in to carry a lady by professional lady-riders, one and all of whom wear spurs. Many a horse, in the canter especially, will not go up to his bit without an occasional slight prick. Women are by nature supposed to be gentle and kindly, and yet I know some who are everlastingly "rugging" at their horse's mouths and digging in the spur. They would use the whip also as severely as the Latchfords but for the exhibition it would entail. When punishment must be inflicted, the spur as a corrective is far more effective than the whip; it acts instantaneously, without warning, and the horse cannot see it coming and swerve from it. Though more dreaded it inflicts the lesser pain of the two. The deepest dig from the rowel will not leave behind it the smart of the weal from a cutting whip. The best spur for ladies is the one mentioned above, with fine-pointed rowel; it does not tear the habit, and the points are long enough and sharp enough to penetrate through the cloth should it intervene between the heel and the horse's side. No lady should venture to wear a spur till she has acquired firmness of seat, to keep her left leg steady in the stirrup and her heel from constantly niggling the animal's ribs. I do not like the spring-sheath one-point spur, as it is uncertain in its action.

CHAPTER VI.

À LA CAVALIÈRE.

Much of late has been said and written against and in favour of cross-saddle riding for girls and women. A lady at my elbow has just given her emphatic opinion that it is neither graceful nor modest, and she predicts that the system will never come into vogue or meet the approval of the finer sense of women. The riding-masters are against it to a man, and so are the saddlers, who argue that the change would somewhat militate against their business. We are very conservative in our ideas, and perhaps it is asking too much of women, who have ridden and hunted in a habit on a side-saddle for years, to all at once, or at all, accept and patronize the innovation.

Travellers notice the fact that women never ride sideways, as with us, but astride, like men. It has generally been supposed that the custom now prevailing in Europe and North America dates back only to the Middle Ages. As a fact, the side-saddle was first introduced here by Anne of Luxembourg, Richard II.'s queen, and so far back as 1341, according to Knighton, it had become general among ladies of first rank at tournaments and in public. But the system must have prevailed to some extent in far earlier times, for Rawlinson discovered a picture of two Assyrian women riding sideways on a mule, and on Etruscan vases, older than the founding of Rome, are several representations of women so seated.

There were no horses in Mexico prior to the advent of the Spaniards; indeed, from the progeny of one Andalusian horse and mare, shipped to Paraguay in 1535, were bred those countless mobs which have since spread over the whole southern part of the new Western world, and, passing the Isthmus of Darien or Panama, have wandered into North America. In the great plains of South America, where the inhabitants, all more or less with Spanish blood pulsing through their veins, may be said to live on horseback, it is strange that, without some good cause, the side-saddle should have been discarded for the "Pisana" fashion—the lady riding in front of her cavalier. In Edward I.'s time our fair dames jogged behind their lords, or behind somebody else's lords, in the conventional pillion: then

"This riding double was no crimeIn the first good Edward's time;No brave man thought himself disgracedBy two fair arms around his waist;Nor did the lady blush vermillionDancing on the lady's pillion."

"This riding double was no crimeIn the first good Edward's time;No brave man thought himself disgracedBy two fair arms around his waist;Nor did the lady blush vermillionDancing on the lady's pillion."

"This riding double was no crime

In the first good Edward's time;

No brave man thought himself disgraced

By two fair arms around his waist;

Nor did the lady blush vermillion

Dancing on the lady's pillion."

The attitude of the "Pisana" fashion, though in some cases vastly agreeable, is not highly picturesque, so there must have been some valid reason why the side-saddle, then in general use in Spain, fell out of favour. In long rides, it, as at that time constructed, tired the rider, and caused severe pain in the spine. Nowadays in Mexico and on the Plate River there are magnificent horsewomen who can ride almost anything short of an Australian buckjumper, and who never tire in the saddle, but then they one and all patronize the cross-saddle, ridingà la cavalièreorà laDuchesse de Berri. Their riding garb, and a very becoming one it is, consists of a loose kind of Norfolk jacket or tunic secured at the waist by a belt, loose Turkish pyjamas thrust into riding boots of soft yellow leather, a huge pair of Mexican spurs, and the ladies' "sombrero." Their favourite and, in fact, only pace is a continuous hand-gallop.

Some thirty years ago I remember seeing the ex-Queen of Naples superbly mounted, ridingà la cavalière. Her Majesty was then even more beautiful than her Imperial sister the Empress of Austria, and quite as finished a horsewoman. She wore a high and pointed-crowned felt hat, a long white cloak, something like the Algerian bournouse, patent-leather jack-boots, and gilt spurs. Her seat was perfect, as was her management of her fiery Arab or Barb, the effect charming, and there was nothing to raise the faintest suspicion of a blush on the cheeks of the most modest. There is no doubt that the Duchess de Berri mode of sitting on a horse is much less fatiguing to the rider, gives her more power over the half-broken animals that in foreign countries do duty for ladies' horses, and, in a very great measure, does away with the chance of establishing a raw on the back. In support of the claims of this, to us, novel manner of placing the rider on her horse's back, I quote from Miss Isabella Bird's "Hawaiian Archipelago." Describing her visit to the Anuenue Falls, that lady writes: "The ride was spoiled by my insecure seat in my saddle, and the increased pain in my side which riding produced. Once, in crossing a stream, the horses had to make a sort of downward jump from a rock, and I slipped round my horse's neck; indeed, on the way back I felt that, on the ground of health, I must give up the volcano, as I would never consent to be carried to it, like Lady Franklin, in a litter. When we returned, Mr. Severance suggested that it would be much better for me to follow the Hawaiian fashion, and ride astride, and put his saddle on the horse. It was only my strong desire to see the volcano which made me consent to a mode of riding against which I have a strong prejudice; but the result of the experiment is that I shall visit Kilauea thus or not at all. The native women all ride astride on ordinary occasions in the full sacks, or kolukus, and on gala days in the pan—the gay winged dress which I described in writing from Honolulu. A great many of the foreign ladies in Hawaii have adopted the Mexican saddle also for greater security to themselves and ease to their horses on the steep and perilous bridle-tracks, but they wear full Turkish trousers and jauntily made dresses reaching to the ankles." Writing later from the Colorado district of the Rockies, Miss Bird adds: "I rode sidewise till I was well out of the town, long enough to produce a severe pain in my spine, which was not relieved for some time till after I had changed my position."

Mrs. Power O'Donoghue runs a tilt with all her might against the idea of any of her sex riding like men. But there are so many manly maidens about now who excel in all open-air pastimes requiring pluck, energy, physical activity, and strength, and who attire themselves suitably in a sort of semi-masculine style, that is not asking too much of them to try the virtues of the cross-saddle. Their costumes are not so muchnegligéas studiedly, so far as is possible without exactly "wearing the breeches" in public, of the man, manly. One of our Princesses has the credit of being an adept with the foils; our cricket and golf fields are invaded by petticoats of various lengths; we see polo played by ladies on clever blood ponies; they take kindly to billiards and lawn-tennis; and it is whispered of a few that they can put on the "mittens" and take and give punishment. It is not so much the prudery about sitting like men that excites the wrathful indignation of the opponents of cross-saddle riding as the apparent difficulty of deciding upon the thoroughly neat and workwoman-like costume.

Three different riding costumes

No. 1.          No. 2.          No. 3.

The three different costumes represented in these sketches do not differ very greatly in propriety. Shorten No. 3, the Eilitto Muddy-Weather costume—who says there's nothing in a name?—just a trifle and encase the wearer's lower limbs in a pair of Messes E. Tautz and Son's gaiters or leggings, and we have the costume sported the winter before last by a well known lady. It certainly looked, on a wearer of advanced years, a trifle eccentric, but any pretty girl, in herpremière jeunesse, blessed with a good figure and gait, would have been the admired of all admirers. This costume with the funny name is much patronized by lawn-tennis players, golfers, and skaters. Nos. 1 and 2 are as like as "two Dromios," and in no very material degree differ from the short-skirted walking-dress. They have been brought out with an eye to ridingà la cavalière, and being strong and yet neat are intended for prairie-riding in the far West, for the rough-and-ready work of the Australian or New Zealand bush, and for scouring over the veldt of South Africa, or for the hundred and one out-of-the-way places of the earth, whither our English girls venture, from necessity, for adventure, or some more potent attraction. Of the two I prefer No. 1, which is the smarter. It is nothing more or less than a short habit made in the shape of a frock-coat, and is buttoned the whole way down to the knees. The long boots, which, by the way, show off a pretty well-turned ankle and foot to perfection, are certainly a trifle more in evidence than is the case when the lady wears the regular habit and is desirous of showing as little "leg" as possible—a desire, when the foot is threes or narrow fours, and the instep well sprung, not too often indulged. No 2 has a divided skirt.

I do not ask ladies of mature age, or even those whose seat is formed, to don one or other of these costumes, though, after the experience of Miss Bird and others, they might, under similar circumstances, adopt both the costume, and the cross-saddle with advantage. In the backwoods and jungles a wide latitude in dress may be permitted without assailing the strictest modesty.

The fashion of riding in the cross-saddle, if it is to be introduced, as it ought to be, must emanate from the rising generation. The luxury of having both feet in the stirrups, of being able to vary the length of the leather, of having a leg down either side of the horse, and a distribution of the bearing equally on each foot, is surely worthy of consideration when many hours have to be spent in the saddle and long weary distances travelled. If agreeable to the rider, how much more so to the horse? We men know what a relief it is on a long journey to vary the monotonous walk or the wearying trot with an occasioned hard gallop "up in the stirrups," or how it eases one to draw the feet out of the stirrups and let the legs hang free. I have already hazarded the opinion that a lady's seat on a side-saddle is a very firm one, but when she is called upon to ride half-broken horses and to be on their backs for hours at a time, traversing all sorts of country, she undoubtedly is heavily handicapped as compared with a man.

Mrs. O'Donoghue, much to the damage of her own contention, so clearly demonstrates my views that I venture to quoteverbatimfrom one of that lady's published letters. "My companion was in ease while I was in torture. Because he had a leg on either side of his mount, his weight equally distributed, and an equal support upon both sides; in fact he had, as all male riders have, the advantage of a double support in the rise; consequently, at the moment his weight was removed from the saddle, it was thrown upon both sides, and this equal distribution enabled him to accomplish without fatigue that slow rise and fall which is so tiring to a lady whose weight, when she is out of the saddle, is thrown entirely upon one delicate limb, thus inducing her to fall again as soon as possible." As for mere grip—the upright and leaping-headsversusboth knees—the security in either case is about the same, but the woman's position in the side-saddle is the more tiring and cramping of the two, and in complete control over the horse, the man's position on the horse has a very decided advantage.

APPENDIX I.

THE TRAINING OF PONIES FOR CHILDREN.

We will take it for granted that the colt, say a three or four year old, is well accustomed to the restraint of the common halter, and is obedient to the cavesson on both sides, also that he leads quietly and bears a fair amount of handling. Were I permitted to explain the Galvayne system, I could, in a very few pages, save the breaker and the colt much time, trouble, and many trials of temper and patience. I have not the professor's permission to make the tempting disclosures. Without trenching on his domain, I may lay down the following rough-and-readymodus operandi, which, however, I am free to confess would be considerably facilitated by a set of his breaking tackle, especially of a particular rope, not made of any vegetable fibre, which, in some cases, exercises a potential control. We must just "gang our ain gait" as my countrymen say.

Having fitted the colt with a soft-lined head-collar-bridle, of the Australian bush pattern, with strong hooks or straps by which to attach the bit, I proceed to bit him. The bit should be on the flexible principle, the mouth-piece being either of chain or a series of ball and socket sections, covered over with white and tasteless rubber, or other soft and yielding material. It should be no thicker than a man's little finger. Inside the cheek and leg of this snaffle I have a large flat disc of sole leather, rounded at the edges, stitched as a guard to prevent the possibility of the bit being drawn through the mouth, of pinching the cheeks against the teeth or in any way injuring the mouth. Every bit, no matter how merciful, will, more or less, make the bars of the mouth tender, but this least of all. If any suffering is evident, or any inflammation set up, then the use of the bit must, till all appearance of undue redness has disappeared, be discontinued. A little tincture of myrrh with eau-de-cologne applied with the fore finger will soon allay the irritation and remove the tenderness.

The best way to insert the bit is, having fixed the near ring to the spring hook or strap on the near side of the head-collar, then coming round to the off side of the head, gentling the pony's head all the time and soothing him, to quietly work the two fore fingers of the left hand into his mouth, and on an opportunity offering, to slip the bit quickly into the mouth. This must be done deftly, without alarming the pony, for if the first attempt result in failure he is certain to throw up his head, run back, and otherwise thwart subsequent endeavours. A little treacle smeared on the bit will make it more palatable and inviting. The first time the bit is in the colt's mouth it should not be allowed to remain more than an hour, and his head must be entirely without restraint. On removing it examine the mouth to see that it has not been injured or bruised, and give him a carrot, or apple. It is immaterial whether these bitting lessons be given in a roomy loose-box, barn, covered-yard, or small paddock.

After becoming reconciled to the bit, strap on a roller or surcingle, having two side and one top ring stitched on to it, the side rings being placed horizontally about where the rider's knees would come, that on the top fore-and-aft. Through these three rings a strong cord should be run forming a sort of running rein, tie the cord to the off-ring of the snaffle, bring it back through the off-side ring, up and through the top ring on the back, down through that on the near side, and so on forward to the near ring of the bit to which it is fastened with a slip knot, taking care that though a slight bearing be upon the bars of the mouth, the colt's head is not tightly reined in and an irksome continuous strain kept on a certain set of muscles of the neck. This running-rein arrangement admits of lateral play of the head, and minimizes the possibility of creating a one-sided mouth.

After a few short lessons in lounging on both sides with his head thus restrained, he may be made to stand in stall with his hindquarters to the manger, the reins being fastened to the post on either side. If the stall, as probably will be the case, be too wide, narrow it by placing sheep hurdles laced with straw on either side of him, so narrowing his standing room that he must preserve a fair "fore and aft" position. The reins must be, if the pillars are too high, fastened to the three rings on the surcingle as explained above. In addition to the single reins there must also be driving reins or cords, carefully adjusted as to length, so as to preserve an even pressure on either side of the mouth, attached to the rings on the manger, so that any attempt to advance is immediately curbed by the strain on the bit.

These lessons should not extend over more than an hour at a time, and during them the trainer should occasionally, by taking the bit in both hands on either side facing him, or by laying hold of the long reins, cause him, exercising only gentle pressure, to rein back, saying at the same time in a tone of quiet command, "back." There will be plenty of room for this in a full-sized stall. He may also be taught to bend his head to the right when the off-rein is pulled upon or even twitched, and so on with the left.

The instructor's aim must be to instil into his mind the firm conviction that it is as impossible to resist the pressure of the bit on either side of the mouth as it is to advance against it. Extreme kindness and gentleness must be exercised in this initial training, each compliance with the teacher's hand and voice being at once met with some encouragement or reward, in shape of a word or two of soothing approval, gentling his head, and a few oats or pieces of carrot or apple—in the tropics sugar-cane or carrot—the bit being removed from the mouth for the purpose. Horses of all sorts are very quick in their likes and dislikes. From the start never let the colt take a dead pull at the reins, let all the pressures be exerted in a light feeling manner with the fingers not the hands.

On becoming fairly proficient at his indoor lesson, we will now, with his Australian bush pattern head-collar-bridle on, a pair of long reins run from the snaffle through the side rings of the surcingle back into the trainer's hands, who will walk behind him, and led by a leading rein attached to the near side of the head-collar but wholly unconnected with the bit, take him into a quiet yard or paddock. He has now to be taught to stop, back, and turn to his bit. The control exercised by the assistant holding the leading rein just suffices to prevent the colt rushing about, or under sudden alarm running back; he will also, though giving him a perfectly free rein, be sufficiently close to his head to aid him in obeying the mandates of the trainer. After walking about as quietly as possible for some time, teaching him how to incline and turn, the feel on the mouth with a moderately tight rein being carefully preserved, he will be on the word "Whoa!" brought to a stand still, and made to stand still and motionless as a well-trained charger on parade.

In the lessons on turning, he may if needful be touched with the whip,only if needful, and then the lash should fall as lightly as the fly from some expert fisherman's rod, the touch of the silk or whip-cord coming simultaneously with the touch on the bars of the mouth. For instance, he is required to turn to the right and hangs a bit on the rein without answering the helm, then a slight touch on the near shoulder will send him up to his bit, give him an inclination to turn smartly in the direction wished for, and the movement may be hastened by the point of the whip being pressed against the off buttock, or upper thigh on the outside. The pull must not be a jerk but a decided lively pull. Always let him go forward as much as space will permit of before making another turn; he must not be confused and so provoked to be stubborn or fight. Let all the turns be to one hand for the first few minutes then turn him in the reverse direction. Should he get his head down and endeavour to establish a steady dead pull, do not indulge him, but step in closer to his quarters so that the strain is at once off the reins, and the moment that he once more feels his bit instantly make him come to a full halt with the word "Whoa." To make a horse stand after being halted, the Arabs throw the bridle over his head and let the rein drag on the ground. When the colt is being broken the bridle is thus left hanging down between his fore legs, and a slave gives it a sharp jerk whenever a step in advance is taken. By this means the horse is duped into the delusion that the pain inflicted on his mouth or nose is caused by his moving while the rein is in this pendant position. What is taught in the desert may be taught in the paddock. The slightest attempt to move forward without the "click" must at once be stopped.

The "backing" lesson is, as a rule, a very simple one, though there are some horses which decline to adopt this retrograde motion. To rein back, the trainer, standing immediately behind the colt, either exerts an even and smart pressure on both reins, drawing them, if need be, through the mouth, when the horse will first bend himself getting his head in handsomely and then begin to step back. At first he will be perhaps, a little awkward, but will soon learn to use his hocks and to adopt this strange gait. If there be any difficulty about getting his head in—it must not be up and out with the bit in the angles of the mouth—the assistant should place the flat of his hand on the animal's face pressing its heel firmly on the cartilage of the nose. The backward movement must cease on the word "Whoa!" and the relaxation of the rein. A horse must not be taught to run back, some acquire the bad habit too readily to a dangerous extent. I may here say that when a horse is given to this vice the best plan is to turn him at once and sharply in the direction he wants to go. In tuition what we want to arrive at is a sort of military "two paces step back, march!"

In these introductory lessons the main use of the assistant with his loose yet ready leading rein is to prevent the colt from turning suddenly round and facing the trainer, acontretempswith a Galvayne's tackle next to impossible. Reins should not, however, be tried at all till the lessons in the loose box and in the stall are so well learnt that there is little or no fear of sudden fright, ebullitions of temper, or other causes of disarrangement and entanglement of the long driving reins. When the habit of yielding to the indication of the rein has once been acquired and well established, it becomes a sort of second nature, which under no circumstances, save those of panic or confirmed bolting, is ever forgotten. A few lessons carefully, firmly, patiently, and completely given will cause the colt to answer the almost imperceptible touch of the rein or the distinct word of command. Once perfected in answering the various signals at the walk, he is then put through precisely the same movements at a trot, and to be an effective teacher, the breaker must not only be a good runner, but in good wind, he must be active enough to show such a horse as "Beau Lyons" at the Hackney Show at Islington. A pony such as is "Norfolk Model," one a hand higher and of a very different stamp, it is true, from what I commend for children, would make a crack "sprinter" put forth his best pace.

During the time the pony is acquiring the A B C or rudiments of his education, he must be frequently and carefully handled. Every effort should be made to gain his confidence. Like all beasts of the field the speediest and surest way to his affection is down his throat; he is imbued with a large share of "cupboard love," so the trainer should always have some tit-bit in his pocket wherewith to reward good behaviour and progress made; moreover, the pupil should be aware of the existence and whereabouts of this store-room. The handling must be general. Rub the head well over with the hands, always working with, and never against the run of the hair. Pull his ears gently (never pull the long hair out from the inside) rub the roots, the eyes and muzzle, work back from the ears down the neck and fore legs, between the fore legs, at the back of the elbows, and along the back, talking to him all the while. Before going to the flanks and hind quarters make him lift both fore feet. If there be any disinclination to obey, a strap should be wound round the fetlock joint, the trainer then taking a firm hold of the ends in his right hand says in a loud voice "Hold up!" at the same time with the palm of the left hand, throwing a portion of his weight on to the near shoulder; this, by throwing the animal's weight over on to the offside, enables the foot to be easily held up.

This lesson imparted, it is extended to the off fore foot. Should the colt, by laying back his ears, showing the whites of his eyes, hugging his tail, and other demonstrations of wickedness, evince his objections to being handled behind the girth, one of the fore feet must be held up and strapped, the buckle of the strap being on the outside of the arm, the foot brought so close to the point of the elbow that no play is left to the knee joint. Then commence to wisp him all over commencing with the head, but, if he is not very restive, do not keep the weight on three legs more than ten minutes at a time, though he, if not overburdened with fat, could easily stand very much longer, or travel a mile or so on three legs. The object, unless vice be displayed, is merely to prevent serious resistance and to convince him that the operation causes no pain. The wisp, the assistant all the time standing at his head speaking in low reassuring tone, patting and caressing him, in the hands of the operator should be at first very gently then briskly applied to the flanks, over the loins, down the quarters and along the channel running between the buttocks, inside the flanks, stifles and haunches, over the sheath, down inside the hocks, in fact anywhere and everywhere known to be tender and "kittle." Having succeeded with the near fore foot up, release it, let him rest awhile and find his way to the store-room dainties. Go through precisely the same lesson with the right foot up, on this occasion giving special attention to those parts which he most strongly objects to being handled. Dwell over his hocks and the inside of his stifles, handle his tail, freely sponging his dock out, running the sponge down through the channel over the sheath, the inside of the thighs and hocks. Release the fore foot, and if he will stand a repetition of all these liberties quietly, he has learnt one important part of his education.

Elsewhere I have endeavoured to describe the unsophisticated antics displayed by the fresh-caught Australian buck-jumper and the inveterate plunger in endeavouring to dislocate their riders. In the one case it is the untaught, unpractised effort of an animal in a paroxysm of fear; in the other the vice of the artful, tricky, practitioner. In either case the horseman may be, very often is, "slung" handsomely, wondering, as he picks himself up, dazed and bewildered with an incoherent idea as to what had befallen him, and how he got there. If a wild horse suddenly finds a panther or a tiger on his back, he at once, in terror, endeavours by a succession of flings to get rid of the incubus. So it is with the unbroken colt bred in captivity, and especially so with the pony fresh from his native hills or pastures. What must be his astonishment when, for the first time he feels a saddle tightly girthed to his back, and the weight of some one in it? His first and only feeling is that of fear, so, being prevented by the bit and bridle from rushing off at the verge of his speed, he by bucks, plunges, and kicks, sets to work to throw the rider.

In mounting the colt the first attempts at making him quite quiet during the process should be in the direction of eliminating every sense of fear. As saddles, especially if badly stuffed and cold, are the cause of many back troubles, I prefer to have him, in the first instance, ridden in a rug or sheepskin, the wool next his hair, kept in its place by a broad web surcingle. Hold the rug or skin to his nose, and let him smell and feel it, rub it over his head, down his neck, in fact all over him, not neatly folded up but loose; toss it about, drag it over him, round him, between his fore legs, under his belly, and out between his thighs. When he takes no heed of it, fold it up on his back and girth it on with the surcingle. Then lead him out for half an hour or so occasionally, pulling up to lean a good bit of weight on his back.

On returning to the loose box, covered yard, or paddock, the first lesson in mounting will be commenced. Having secured the services of some active smart lad who can ride and vault, the lighter the better, make him stand on a mounting block, an inverted empty wine chest will do, placed near his fore leg. If the pony be nervous at this block, let him examine it, smell it, touch it, and even eat a few carrots off it. Standing on this coign of advantage, the lad must loll over him, patting him, reaching down well on the off side, leaning at first a portion, and then his whole weight on him. If he makes no objection to this treatment, the lad should seat himself on his back, mounting and dismounting repeatedly, slowly but neatly, being careful not to descend on his back with a jerk. So long as the colt shows no fear, this gymnastic practice may be varied with advantage to almost any extent, the contact of the gymnast's body with that of the pony being as close as possible. He should not only vault all over him and straddle him, but should crawl and creep all over him and under him, winding up by vaulting on his back, over his head, and over his quarters. I have frequently taught Arabs to put their heads between my legs and by the sudden throw-up of their necks to send me into the saddle face to the tail. On no account hurry this mounting practice, do not let him be flustered or fatigued, and see that the rider's foot deftly clears him without once touching or kicking him; much depends on the clean manner in which the various mountings and dismountings are performed.

The mounting block will be dispensed with so soon as the rider is permitted to throw his right leg over his back and to straddle him without starting. It is essential that he should stand stock still and that he should not move forward without the usual "klick." When quite patient and steady in being mounted with the rug or fleece, a nice light 5 lb. polo or racing saddle with a "Humane" numnah under it should be substituted, and if the pony's shoulders are low and upright a crupper will be necessary. Care must be taken that the crupper strap is not too tight, also that the crupper itself does not produce a scald under the dock of the tail; a strip of lamb-skin, the wool next the dock, will ensure that. After being led about in the saddle for a time, he is brought into the box or yard and there mounted by the lad, the trainer having hold of the leading rein, the rider of the bridle.

Now a word as to the said lad. All he has to do is to preserve the lightest possible touch of the mouth, and to sit firm and sit quiet. I would rather prefer that he did not hail from a racing stable, for these imps—the most mischievous of their race—are up to all sorts of tricks and are accustomed to ride trusting almost entirely to the support gained from their knotted bridle and the steady pressure against the stirrup somewhat after the principle of the coachman and his foot-board. He must be forced to keep his heels and his ashplant quiet. I am averse to much lounging and am confident it is overdone. On carrying the lad quietly led by hand, the following lessons should be in company with some staid old stager. Markedly gregarious in his habits, the horse never feels so happy or contended as when in company; in the society of a well-behaved tractable member of his family he will do all that is required of him. Soon the leading rein will be superfluous and the pony and his rider will be able to go anywhere at any pace. It is especially advisable that when his first rides lie away from home he should be ridden in company with some other horse, or he may turn restive. Be very careful not to attempt anything with him that may lead up to a fight in which he may remain master. Any disposition on his part to "reest" or to break out into rebellion is proof of his not having learnt his first lessons properly. Far better to lead him away from home for a mile or two and then to mount him, than to hazard any difference of opinion. The example of a well-broken, well-ridden, well-mannered horse is very important. One act of successful disobedience may undo the careful labour of weeks and necessitate very stringent measures, such as those described in my previous volume, in the case of confirmed vice. Weeks of careful riding always under the trainer's eye, will be required before the lessons are complete, and the pupil sobered down so as to be a safe and comfortable conveyance for children beginners.


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