Tea.
Thetea plant is a native of China or Japan, and probably of both. It has been used among the natives of the former country from time immemorial. It is only in a particular tract of the Chinese empire that the plant is cultivated; and this tract, which is situated on the eastern side, between the 30th and 33d degrees of north latitude, is distinguished by the natives as the “tea country.” The more northern part of China would be too cold; and farther south, the heat would be too great. There are, however, a few small plantations to be seen near Canton.
The Chinese give to the plant the name ofTchaorTha. It is propagated by them from seeds, which are deposited in rows, four or five feet asunder; and so uncertain is their vegetation, even in their native climate, that it is found necessary to sow as many as seven or eight seeds in every hole. The ground between each row is always kept free from weeds, and the plants are not allowed to attain a higher growth than admits of the leaves being conveniently gathered. The first crop of leaves is not collected until the year after sowing; and when the trees are six or seven years old, the produce becomes so inferior, that they are removed to make room for a fresh succession.
The flowers of the tea tree are white, and somewhat resemble the wild rose; these flowers are succeeded by soft green berries or pods, containing each from one to three white seeds. The plant will grow in either low or elevated situations, but always thrives best, and furnishes leaves of the finest quality, when produced in light, stony ground.
The leaves are gathered from one to four times during the year, according to the age of the trees. Most commonly there are three periods of gathering: the first commences about the middle of April; the second at midsummer, and the last is accomplished during August and September. The leaves that are the earliest gathered, are of the most delicate color, and the most aromatic odor, with the least portion of either fibre or bitterness. Leaves of the second gathering are of a dull green color, and have less valuable qualities than the former; while those that are last collected are of a dark green, and possess an inferior value. The quality is farther influenced by the age of the wood on which the leaves are borne, and by the degree of exposure to which they have been accustomed; leaves from young wood, and those most exposed, being the best.
The leaves, as soon as gathered, are put into wide and shallow baskets, and placed in the air or wind, or sunshine, during some hours. They are then placed on a flat cast-iron pan, over a stove heated with charcoal,—from a half to three quarters of a pound of leaves being operated on at a time. These leaves are stirred quickly about with a kind of brush, and are then as quickly swept of the pan into baskets. The next process is that of rolling, which is effected by carefully rubbing them between men’s hands; after which, they are again put in larger quantities on the pan, and subjected anew to heat, but at this time, to a lower degree than that at first, and just sufficient to dry them effectually without risk of scorching. This effected, the tea is placed on a table, and carefully picked over, every unsightly or imperfectly dried leaf that is detected being removed from the rest, in order that the sample may present a more even and better appearance when offered for sale.
The names by which some of the principal sorts of tea are known in China, are taken from the places in which they are produced; while others are distinguished according to the periods of their gathering, the manner employed in curing, or other extrinsic circumstances. It is a commonly received opinion, that the distinctive color of green tea is imparted to it by the sheets of copper upon which it is dried. For this belief, there is not the slightest foundation, since copper is never used for the purpose. Repeated experiments have been made to discover, by an unerring test, whether the leaves of green tea contain any impregnation of copper, but in no case has any trace of this metal been detected.
The Chinese do not use their tea until it is about a year old, considering that it is too actively narcotic when new. The people partake of tea at all their meals, and frequently at other times of the day. They drink the infusion in the same manner that we drink it; but they do not mix with it either sugar or milk. The working classes are obliged to content themselves with a very weak infusion. Mr. Anderson, in his narrative of Lord Macartney’s Embassy, relates that the natives in attendance never failed to beg the tea leaves remaining after the Europeans had breakfasted, and with these, after submitting them again to boiling water, they made a beverage, which they acknowledged was better than any they could ordinarily obtain.