a neat and commodious edifice, with a tolerably spacious court, magistrates’ and grand jury rooms, and a robing room for counsel on the ground floor; and upstairs are the Clerk of the Peace’s record rooms and other offices.
Before leaving the Castle yard, the attention of the visitor will naturally be attracted by memorials of the Crimean war, in the form of two Russian guns, mounted on either side of the grand entrance, under a portico, enclosed with iron railings. On each of these formidable pieces of ordnance is inscribed the following historical memorandum:
THIS GUNWAS CAPTURED BY THE ALLIED ARMIES OFENGLAND, FRANCE, TURKEY, AND SARDINIA,AT SEVASTOPOL,ON THE 8TH DAY OF SEPTEMBER, 1855,AND PRESENTED BYHER MAJESTYTO THE CITIZENS OF CHESTER,IN COMMEMORATION OF THAT ARDUOUS SIEGE.VICTORIA REGINA.
THIS GUNWAS CAPTURED BY THE ALLIED ARMIES OFENGLAND, FRANCE, TURKEY, AND SARDINIA,AT SEVASTOPOL,ON THE 8TH DAY OF SEPTEMBER, 1855,AND PRESENTED BYHER MAJESTYTO THE CITIZENS OF CHESTER,IN COMMEMORATION OF THAT ARDUOUS SIEGE.VICTORIA REGINA.
Having completed our view of the Castle, we return to continueour walk, proceeding along the walls until we reach the boundary of the Castle, where the tourist will have a fine view of the
This noble work of art, which is unequalled in the history of bridge-building, crosses the Dee at the south-east angle of the Roodeye, and is approached by a new road from the centre of Bridge-street, which passes by the Castle esplanade, proceeds across the City Walls, and then, by an immense embankment, thrown over a deep valley, to the foot of the bridge. The bridge consists of one main stone arch, with a small dry arch or towing path on each side, by which the land communication is preserved on both sides of the river. The cost of erection was £36,000.
The great distinguishing feature of this edifice is the unparalleled width of the chord or span of the main arch, which is of greater extent than that of any other known to have been constructed. Of its dimensions the following is an accurate delineation:—The span of the arch,two hundred feet.[40]Height of the arch from the springing line, 40 feet. Dimensions of the main abutments, 48 feet wide by 40, with a dry arch as a towing path at each side, 20 feet wide, flanked with immense wing walls, to support the embankment. The whole length of the roadway, 340 feet. Width of the bridge from outside the parapet walls, 35 feet 6 inches, divided thus: carriage road, 24 feet; the two causeways, 9 feet; thickness of the parapet walls, 2 feet 6 inches. Altitude from the top of the parapet wall to the river at low-water mark, 66 feet 6 inches. The architectural plan of this bridge was furnished by the late Thomas Harrison, Esq.; contractor and builder, Mr. James Trubshaw, of Staffordshire; surveyor, Mr. Jesse Hartley, of Liverpool. The first stone was laid on the 1st October, 1827, by the late Marquis of Westminster, and a specimen of each of the current coins of the realm deposited therein; and was formally opened in October, 1832, by her Royal Highness the Princess Victoria (her present Most Gracious Majesty), on occasion of her visit, and that of her Royal mother, the Duchess of Kent, to Eaton Hall. As a compliment to her noble host, at the request of the commissioners, the bridge was named “Grosvenor Bridge,” by the young Princess. It was opened to the public in December, 1833.
It was opposite to this part of the Walls that King Edgar’s palace was situated, from which he was rowed up the river to St. John’s Priory, by eight tributary princes, in 971.
Within seventy yards of the bridge formerly stood an ancient Roman gateway in the walls, called theShipgate, orHole in the Wall, at one time the only entrance into Chester from Handbridge. It was taken down some years ago, and is now in the possession of Thomas Finchett Maddock, Esq. It forms a perfect specimen of Roman masonry, originally 20 feet in height by 16 in breadth. Pennant remarks, “that this postern seems originally to have been designed for the common passage over the Dee into the country of the Ordovices, either by means of a boat at high water, or by a ford at low, the river here being remarkably shallow.” Opposite the Shipgate is a ford in the river leading through to a field on the Handbridge side, calledEdgar’s Field, in which stands the ancient sculpture of theDiva ArmigeraPallas, already mentioned under the head of “Roman Antiquities,” in a former part of this work.
Pursuing our walk, we next arrive at
a handsome arch gateway, having two posterns, erected in 1782, at the expense of the Corporation. On the tablet over the western postern is the following inscription:—
THIS GATE WAS BEGUN APRIL, MDCCLXXXII., PATISONELLAMES, ESQ., MAYOR, AND FINISHED DECEMBER THESAME YEAR, THOMAS PATISON, ESQ., MAYOR.THOS. COTGREAVE, ESQ., HENRY HESKETH, ESQ., MURENGERS.JOSEPH TURNER, ARCHITECT.
THIS GATE WAS BEGUN APRIL, MDCCLXXXII., PATISONELLAMES, ESQ., MAYOR, AND FINISHED DECEMBER THESAME YEAR, THOMAS PATISON, ESQ., MAYOR.
THOS. COTGREAVE, ESQ., HENRY HESKETH, ESQ., MURENGERS.
JOSEPH TURNER, ARCHITECT.
On another tablet, on the east side,—
THIS GATE, HAVING BEEN LONG INCONVENIENT,WAS TAKEN DOWN A.D. MDCCLXXXI.JOSEPH SNOW, ESQ., MAYOR.THOS. AMERY, HENRY HEGG, TREASURERS.
THIS GATE, HAVING BEEN LONG INCONVENIENT,WAS TAKEN DOWN A.D. MDCCLXXXI.
JOSEPH SNOW, ESQ., MAYOR.
THOS. AMERY, HENRY HEGG, TREASURERS.
From the top of this gateway the banks of the Dee, with the bridge, and suburbs of Handbridge, present a lively and striking appearance, which at low water is increased by the rapid falling of the stream over the causeway across the river immediately above the bridge. In the distance may be seen Beeston Castle, on itslofty summit; and the successive ranges of Bucklow and Peckforton Hills form a beautiful background to the landscape.
A little southward stands
which is of considerable antiquity. A wooden bridge was erected on the same spot by the Mercian Princess Ethelfleda, early in the tenth century; but from the ‘Chronicle of Chester Abbey,’ we learn that in 1227 “pons Cestriæ totus cecidit;” and that in 1279 “mare erupit, pontem Cestriæ confregit et asportavit.” The wooden bridge being thus disposed of, we next find from the ‘Red Book of St. Werburgh,’ that “in 1280 the King (Edward I.) compelled the citizens of Chester to rebuild Dee Bridge at their own charge, contrary to the privileges which had been granted to them.” In 1500, the south end of the Bridge, having fallen into decay, was rebuilt, and a tower for its defence added at the entrance into Handbridge, which was taken down about sixty years ago. In 1826 the Bridge was widened to the extent of seven feet, by the addition of a flagged footpath, on the east side, bounded towards the river by a good iron railing, the projection supported by two courses of corbels.
It consists of seven irregular arches, and when viewed from the west, presents an appearance of venerable antiquity; but on the east it no longer holds out that recommendation to the eye of the observer, modern alterations having left nothing on that side to render it worthy of notice.
At the north end of the Bridge stand the
used for the grinding of corn. Although the date of the first erection of mills on this spot cannot now be ascertained, yet there is evidence of their having been there from remote antiquity. Sir Howell-y-Fwyall obtained a grant of them from Edward III. in reward for his services at the battle of Poictiers. In the fifth of Edward VI. they were granted by the Crown to Sir Richard Cotton, in exchange for the manors of Bourne and Moreton, in Lincolnshire; and by his son George they were granted in fee farm to Edmund Gamul, at a yearly rent of £100. Gamul expended a large sum in repairing the causeway originally erected by Hugh Lupus. In 1646 an order of Parliament was issued, that the mills and causeway should be destroyed, as an obstruction to trade; but this order, issued by the Puritans then in power, probably with no other view than to obtain acompositionfrom the proprietor, wasnever complied with. On the alienation of the Gamul property, the greater part of the mills fell into the hands of Mr. Edward Wrench, in whose successor the property is now vested. The Dee Mills have been twice destroyed by fire within the last sixty years. The first conflagration broke out about twelve at night, of Saturday, September 26, 1789; the second, about the same hour of Saturday night, March 6, 1819; on which latter occasion the progress of the flames was so rapid, that the whole of the premises, with the exception of part of the outward wall, were destroyed in less than six hours. The loss sustained was upwards of £40,000. A third fire took place in January, 1847, which destroyed the whole of one of the mills.
We shall now proceed to notice
which appears to have been of equal antiquity with the bridge itself, for it is shown by documents in the possession of the Earl of Shrewsbury, that Randle, Earl of Chester, confirmed a gift of his Countess to Poyns, her servant, of the custody of this gate. And another deed, of the thirteenth century, preserved among the same documents, records, “quod ego Ricardus Bagoth de Cestr: dedi et omnino quietam clamavi Philippo clerico civi Cestr:totum jus meum in porta pontis Cestr: cum omnibus pertinentijs suis.” From Philip the clerk the custody of this gate passed to the family of Raby, one of whom, Philip de Raby, in the fourteenth century, had also the keeping of the Earl’s garden at the Castle, for which service he received the fruit of a tree called “arestynge tre,” and whatever remained on the other trees after the first shaking, under thereddendoof furnishing the Earl’s household with colewort from Michaelmas to Lent, and with leeks during Lent. From the Rabys the custody of the Bridgegate passed to the Norrises of Speke, in Lancashire, and the Troutbecks. In 1624 the Corporation purchased the moiety belonging to the Norrises; and in 1660 they also purchased the other moiety from the Earl of Shrewsbury, representative of the Troutbecks, the Earl reserving to himself, during his visits to Chester, the use of a suite of apartments in a house near the gate.
The Old Gate consisted of an arched gateway, flanked with two strong round towers, on one of which was erected a lofty octagonal tower, containing a cistern for supplying the city with water, called Tyrer’s Water Works, concerning which Webb says, “TheBridgegate hath of late been greatly beautified by a seemly water-work of stone, built steeple-wise, by the ingenious industry and charge of a late worthy member of the city, John Tyrer, gent., and hath served ever since to great use, for the conveying of the river water from the cistern, in the top of that work, to the citizens’ houses in almost all the parts of the city, in pipes of lead and wood,to their no small contentment and commodity.” The whole fabric was taken down in 1781.
Proceeding eastward, a most pleasing view of the Dee, of considerable extent, is presented, with delightful cottage and villa residences on the Boughton bank, and in a pleasant suburb called “Queen’s Park,” the elegant suspension bridge to which forms a novel feature in the landscape. On the left of the river is a cool and shady walk, calledThe Groves, where there are excellent pleasure boats for the accommodation of those who enjoy a sail or a pull up the river. We have here a very good view of St. John’s Church on the right, a venerable pile, containing some curious and interesting specimens of Norman architecture.
Within about fifty yards of the Recorder’s steps, the wall forms an angle to the northward. Here we ascend six flights of steps, consisting of three steps each, called theWishing Steps, erected in 1785, at the top of which stood an ancient Watch Tower, which had formerly an apartment with a stone seat on one side, and windows commanding a view of the river and adjacent country. This room was removed in 1826.
We next arrive at
a plain arched gateway, forming a communication betwixt Newgate-street and Pepper-street within the Walls, and St. John’s-street, Dee-lane, &c., without. On the spot now occupied by this gate, formerly stood a postern, calledWolf’s Gate, orPepper Gate. Of this postern, Fuller says, that in the sixteenth century “the Mayor of the city had his daughter, as she was playing at ball with other maidens in Pepper-street, stolen away by a young man through the same gate, whereupon he caused it to be shut up,” which gave rise to the saying, “When the daughter is stolen, shut Pepper Gate.” The postern was removed and the Newgate erected in 1608. From a Journal of the Siege of Chester, in King’s ‘Vale Royal,’ it appears that on the 29th September, 1645, “the besiegers made a breach in the walls near to the Newgate,by the battery of 150 cannon shot, and at midnight made a sharp assault upon the breach. They likewise attempted to mount the walls with scaling ladders, but some officers and several soldiers were hauled in over the walls; some of the ladders, too, were dragged over, and many of the assailants thrown down and killed, and the rest forced to give over the attack.”
A short way further to the eastward, after passing the scanty remains of an old tower abutting from the Walls, calledThimbleby’s Tower, we arrive at a flight of steps leading to the Wesleyan Methodist Chapel in St. John’s-street, the access to which from this quarter was made under the sanction of the Corporation. This handsome and commodious place of worship was erected in 1811. Near to the chapel is a large and commodious School-house, recently erected, capable of containing from 200 to 300 children, which is occupied during the week as a day school, and is in a prosperous condition.
A few paces now brings us to
consisting of a wide and beautiful centre arch for the passage of carriages, and two posterns for the safety and convenience of foot passengers. It was built at the sole expense of the late Marquis of Westminster, whose arms, and those of the city, occupy the centre of the principal arch. On the 8th August, 1768, the south-west corner stone of the Eastgate was laid by John Page, Esq., Provincial Grand Master, attended by four regular lodges of Freemasons; and the north-west corner-stone by the Mayor, Sheriffs, and Aldermen of Chester. On the east side, under the Grosvenor armorial bearings, is the following inscription:—
ERECTED AT THE EXPENSE OFRICHARD LORD GROSVENOR,MDCCLXIX.
ERECTED AT THE EXPENSE OFRICHARD LORD GROSVENOR,MDCCLXIX.
And on the west side, under the city arms,
BEGUN A.D. MDCCLXVIII, JOHN KELSALL,ESQ., MAYOR. FINISHED A.D. MDCCLXIX,CHAS. BOSWELL, ESQ., MAYOR.
BEGUN A.D. MDCCLXVIII, JOHN KELSALL,ESQ., MAYOR. FINISHED A.D. MDCCLXIX,CHAS. BOSWELL, ESQ., MAYOR.
From the summit of the gate there is a fine view of Eastgate-street, within the walls, and Foregate, or Forest-street on the outside. On a market day it is truly spirit-stirring to observe the multitude beneath, and listen to the “busy hum of men,” citizens and country folks, engaged in buying and selling,—bringing in andcarrying out,—the various commodities which furnish forth the provision market of a county town. On the same spot formerly stood
removed in 1768, as too narrow and inconvenient for one of the principal entrances to the city. It consisted of a beautifully formed Gothic archway, flanked by two massive octagonal embattled towers, connected by a substantial building, two stories in height, over the gateway, the roof of which was raised to a level with and embattled in the same manner as the flanking towers to which it formed the centre. From the bearings on four shields which ornamented the front of this gate, it is conjectured to have been erected during the reign of Edward III.
A Roman gateway appears to have occupied the same spot at a still earlier period; for in pulling down the Old Eastgate in 1768, two wide circular arches of Roman architecture were discovered within its workmanship.
With all due admiration for the spirit of useful improvement which dictated the erection of the present Eastgate, we cannot avoid expressing our regret that the old one no longer remains to gratify the eye of the antiquary and the man of taste. Although the present gate is undoubtedly much better adapted for the entrance of carriages of all kinds, yet the Cestrians of the last century, who remembered the glories of the old structure, must have been but ill reconciled to its substitute.
Having thus completed the circuit of the Walls of Chester, as they at present stand, it only remains to notice that there was formerly an outer gate in Foregate-street, about half a mile from the Eastgate, called
which, being in a very dilapidated state, was removed as a nuisance in 1770. An outwork, in connection with this gate, was raised previous to the siege of Chester in 1643. This outwork, consisting of a mud wall, fortified with mounts and bastions, joined the City Wall at the New Tower, from whence it stretched out to the north-east so far as to take in Upper Northgate-street; then running eastward, encompassed all the suburbs on the north of Foregate-street, until it approached Boughton, when it turned southward, and proceeded in that direction across Foregate-street at the Bars Gate, down Dee-lane, at the bottom of which its course was terminatedby the river. This outwork withstood a violent assault by the Puritans under Sir William Brereton, on the 18th July, 1643, wherein the assailants were forced to retire with great loss; but on the 19th of September, 1645, it was surprised and carried by a night assault of the enemy, under the command of General Louthian, and was afterwards occupied by the Puritans as a circumvallation, while prosecuting the siege of the city.
“In perusing the foregoing sketch of our Walls, with the incidental notices of contiguous objects, it is presumed, that individuals most conversant with the localities of the city, will meet with several particulars, either to gratify their curiosity or add to their information. And it may also be hoped, that should the account be read by those who are strangers to our ancient fortifications, and the peculiar attractions of Chester, it may excite a commendable inquisitiveness for a personal survey, at the same time that it may assist as a directory to their inquiries. In whatever point of view these old ramparts are considered, they possess an imposing interest, and confer incalculable benefits. To the invalid, the sedentary student, or the man of business, occupied during the day in his shop or counting-house; to the habitually indolent, who require excitement to necessary exercise—to all these, the promenade on Chester Walls has most inviting attractions, where they may breathe all the salubrious winds of heaven in a morning or an evening walk. Here the enthusiastic antiquarian, who would climb mountains, ford rivers, explore the bowels of the earth, and, regardless of toil and the claims of nature, exhaust his strength in search of a piece of rusty cankered brass, or a scrap of Roman earthenware, can scarcely advance a dozen paces but the pavement on which he treads, or some contiguous object, forces upon his observation the relics of times of earliest date. Nor can the philosophic moralist encompass our venerable walls without having his mind, comparing the splendid and gigantic works of antiquity with their present condition, strongly impressed with the mutations produced by the lapse of ages, and the perishing nature of all mundane greatness.“I shall conclude this branch of our history by citing the sentiments of a man well known to the republic of letters, regarding our ancient city, not indeed particularly as to her walls, but as to her general attractions. His information, as a traveller, was varied and extensive, and his discernment and intellect strong and acute. This gentleman, who was no other than Mr. Boswell, in a letter toDr. Johnson, dated October 22, 1779, says, ‘Chester pleases me more than any town I ever saw. I told a very pleasing young lady, niece to one of the prebendaries (Miss Letitia Barnston), at whose house I saw her, ‘I have come to Chester, Madam, I cannot tell how; and far less can I tell how to get away from it.’ Dr. Johnson in reply says, ‘In the place where you are there is much to be observed, and you will easily procure yourself skilful directors.’ In another letter, dated November 7, in the same year, Boswell remarks, ‘I was quite enchanted at Chester, so that I could with difficulty quit it.’”[48]
“In perusing the foregoing sketch of our Walls, with the incidental notices of contiguous objects, it is presumed, that individuals most conversant with the localities of the city, will meet with several particulars, either to gratify their curiosity or add to their information. And it may also be hoped, that should the account be read by those who are strangers to our ancient fortifications, and the peculiar attractions of Chester, it may excite a commendable inquisitiveness for a personal survey, at the same time that it may assist as a directory to their inquiries. In whatever point of view these old ramparts are considered, they possess an imposing interest, and confer incalculable benefits. To the invalid, the sedentary student, or the man of business, occupied during the day in his shop or counting-house; to the habitually indolent, who require excitement to necessary exercise—to all these, the promenade on Chester Walls has most inviting attractions, where they may breathe all the salubrious winds of heaven in a morning or an evening walk. Here the enthusiastic antiquarian, who would climb mountains, ford rivers, explore the bowels of the earth, and, regardless of toil and the claims of nature, exhaust his strength in search of a piece of rusty cankered brass, or a scrap of Roman earthenware, can scarcely advance a dozen paces but the pavement on which he treads, or some contiguous object, forces upon his observation the relics of times of earliest date. Nor can the philosophic moralist encompass our venerable walls without having his mind, comparing the splendid and gigantic works of antiquity with their present condition, strongly impressed with the mutations produced by the lapse of ages, and the perishing nature of all mundane greatness.
“I shall conclude this branch of our history by citing the sentiments of a man well known to the republic of letters, regarding our ancient city, not indeed particularly as to her walls, but as to her general attractions. His information, as a traveller, was varied and extensive, and his discernment and intellect strong and acute. This gentleman, who was no other than Mr. Boswell, in a letter toDr. Johnson, dated October 22, 1779, says, ‘Chester pleases me more than any town I ever saw. I told a very pleasing young lady, niece to one of the prebendaries (Miss Letitia Barnston), at whose house I saw her, ‘I have come to Chester, Madam, I cannot tell how; and far less can I tell how to get away from it.’ Dr. Johnson in reply says, ‘In the place where you are there is much to be observed, and you will easily procure yourself skilful directors.’ In another letter, dated November 7, in the same year, Boswell remarks, ‘I was quite enchanted at Chester, so that I could with difficulty quit it.’”[48]
Watergate Street Row South, Chester
Itis our purpose now to conduct the tourist through the city, that we may point out, in detail, the various objects of interest which claim his attentive inspection. But before commencing our perambulations through the principal streets, we will here introduce a few remarks on that unique feature which constitutes the distinguishing attraction of Chester, and has given it universal celebrity.
Very curious are these old arcades, which are as interesting to the antiquarian as they are convenient for a quiet lounge to ladies and others engaged in shopping. They occupy the greatest part of both sides of Eastgate-street, and the upper parts of both sides of Watergate-street and Bridge-street. Those in Northgate-street are more irregular, only one side, commonly called Shoemakers’-row, being used as a regular thoroughfare. Their appearance, both interior and exterior, is extremely singular. They form a gallery, occupying the front floor of each house, parallel with the streets below, and are approached by flights of steps, placed at convenient distances, in addition to those by which they are entered and quitted at each end. The passenger walks over the shops on a level with the street, and under the first floor of the dwelling-houses; and thus two lines of shops are erected in one front. The rows are kept in excellent repair, and form the chief promenade of the citizens. To strangers they cannot fail to prove an object of curiosity. The shops in the rows are generally considered the best situations for retail traders; but those on the southern side of Eastgate-street and the eastern side of Bridge-street have a decided preference. Shops let here at high rents, and are in never-failing request; and there are no parts of the city which have undergone such rapid or extensive improvements.
In the sixteenth century the rows appear not to have exceeded6 feet in height and 10 in width, with clumsy wooden rails towards the street, and large oaken pillars, supporting transverse beams and brackets, on which rested the houses over head, formed of wood and plaster, so far overhanging the street, that in some places the upper floors of opposite houses nearly met. Nearly the whole of the buildings of this description are now taken down; and in rebuilding care has been taken to raise and widen the rows, and to place iron railings towards the street in place of the wooden posts formerly used. The shops in the rows present a very different appearance to that of about sixty years ago; then, as Hemingway says, “the fronts were allopento the row in two or three compartments, according to their size; and at night were closed by large hanging shutters fixed on hinges, and fastened in the daytime by hooks to the ceiling of the row.” At present these rows are “capable of supplying all the real demands of convenience and the artificial calls of luxury, mental and corporeal, presenting a cluster of drapers, clothiers, jewellers, booksellers, &c., as respectable as the kingdom can produce.”[50]The origin and cause of the rows has furnished matter for much curious investigation; and many conflicting conjectures have been propounded respecting them. The subject is involved in much obscurity; and, in the absence of any positive data, we are not able to take higher ground than the probabilities of the case. It has been alleged that they were originally used as places of defence, from whence to annoy and repulse the assaults of the enemy, who might gain entrance into the streets beneath by surprising the gates, during those remote ages when Chester was subject to the sudden incursions of the Welsh. But against this opinion it may be urged, that in no one of their attacks upon this city did the Welsh ever force their way within the gates or walls; so that these latter, being proved by experience to be a sufficient bulwark against our foes, there existed no necessity for the erection of any further defences. There is irrefragable evidence that theformof the city is Roman, and that thewallswere the work of that people; and the same reasons which justify these conclusions are not less cogent for presuming that the construction of the streets are Roman also. Pennant appears to have arrived at this conclusion:—he says, “These rows appear to me to have been the same with the ancientvestibules, and to have been a form of building preserved from the time that the city was possessed by the Romans. They were built before thedoors, midway between the streets and the houses, and were the places where dependants waited for the coming out of their patrons, and under which they might walk away the tedious minutes of expectation. Plautus, in the 3rd act of hisMostella, describes both their station and use. The shops beneath the rows were the Cryptæ and Apothecæ, magazines for the various necessaries of the owners of the houses.”
Ormerod says that some of these crypts exhibit specimens of vaulting equal to the cloisters of our Cathedral.
Camden, in describing Chester, says, “The houses are very fair built, and along the chief streets are galleries or walking places they call rows, having shops on both sides, through which a man may walk dry from one end to the other.” And Shukeley, in his ‘Itinerary,’ in 1724, says, “The rows or piazzas are singular through the whole town, giving shelter to foot people. I fancied it a remain of theRoman porticoes.”
In the oldest histories, descriptive of the city in some form or other, the elevated rows and the shops beneath are recognized.
Tacitus, “in describing the process by which Roman manners diffused themselves throughout Britain, and gradually completed the subjugation of the country, speaks of the natives of Britain as acquiring a taste for the two leading features in Roman civilization, ‘Porticus and Balnea,’—the portico, in which they were delighted to stroll and sun themselves; and the baths, which were their national luxury. He mentions these, and we cannot but be struck by the coincidence with things with which we are all familiar—therowsof our ancient city, and the Hypocaust, which is still shown as the Roman bath. We are hereby led to infer, that the mode of construction which gives the character to our city, originated in Roman habits.”[51]
Within the walls, the city is subdivided by four principal streets, intersecting each other nearly at right angles at St. Peter’s Church, which stands in the centre of the city. These streets retain numerous old timber buildings, which give them an unusual and quaint appearance, and are wider in general than those of cities of equal antiquity. Immediately in front of the church formerly stood the High Cross, which was pulled down and defaced by the Parliamentarians, when they took possession of the city in 1646.The upper portion of this valuable antiquity is still preserved in the grounds of Netherlegh House, though some of the carved figures are a good deal injured. Mr. Pennant is of opinion that St. Peter’s Church, and a few houses to the north and west, occupy the site of theRoman Prætorium, with its Court of Judicature and Angulale, where prayers, sacrifices, and other religious rites were wont to be performed.
Adjoining the Cross formerly stood that ignominious instrument of punishment, called thePillory.
Adjoining the south side of St. Peter’s Church stood the old Pentice, where the magistrates performed their judicial duties, where the sheriffs sat to determine civil causes, and where the Town-office was kept, until the year 1803, when it was removed for the purpose of widening the road into Northgate and Watergate streets, at that time extremely narrow and dangerous. The bench of magistrates was then removed to much more commodious apartments in the Exchange. At the corner of the east of Bridge-street and the west of Eastgate-street, and near to the Cross, there was formerly a small stone building, forming a basin at the top, called theConduit, to which water was formerly brought into the city from St. Giles’s well at Boughton, and thence conveyed to different parts of the city.
The Cross used formerly to be the scene of the barbarous sport of bull-baiting, of which the following satirical sketch is given in an old History of Chester:—
“The Cross is famous for being the annual scene of exhibition of thatpolite playcalled a bull-bait, where four or five of thesehorned heroesare attended by several hundred lovers of thatrational amusement. Till within a few years, thedramatis personæof thiselegant sceneincluded even magistracy itself, the mayor and corporation attending in their official habiliments, at the Pentice windows, not only to countenance thediversionsof thering, but to participate in a sight of itsenjoyments. A proclamation was also made, by the crier of the court, with all the gravity and solemnity of an oration before aRomish sacrifice; the elegant composition of which ran thus—‘Oyez!Oyez!Oyez!If any man stands within twenty yards of the bull-ring,let him take—what comes.’ After which followed the usual public ejaculations, for ‘the safety of the king and the mayor of the city;’ when thebeautiesof the scene commenced, and the dogs immediatelyfell to. Here a prayer for his worship was not unseasonable, as even the ermin’d cloak wasno security against the carcases of dead animals, with which spectators, without distinction, were occasionally saluted.
“The Cross is famous for being the annual scene of exhibition of thatpolite playcalled a bull-bait, where four or five of thesehorned heroesare attended by several hundred lovers of thatrational amusement. Till within a few years, thedramatis personæof thiselegant sceneincluded even magistracy itself, the mayor and corporation attending in their official habiliments, at the Pentice windows, not only to countenance thediversionsof thering, but to participate in a sight of itsenjoyments. A proclamation was also made, by the crier of the court, with all the gravity and solemnity of an oration before aRomish sacrifice; the elegant composition of which ran thus—‘Oyez!Oyez!Oyez!If any man stands within twenty yards of the bull-ring,let him take—what comes.’ After which followed the usual public ejaculations, for ‘the safety of the king and the mayor of the city;’ when thebeautiesof the scene commenced, and the dogs immediatelyfell to. Here a prayer for his worship was not unseasonable, as even the ermin’d cloak wasno security against the carcases of dead animals, with which spectators, without distinction, were occasionally saluted.
Eastgate Street, Chester
“We shall not attempt a description of thetenderoffices practised, at such times, on so noble a creature—one, however, we cannot omit mentioning: in 1787, an unfortunate animal, smarting under his wounds and fatigue, was verynaturallyinduced tolie down;—theargumentmade use of, in this situation, however,as naturallyinduced him toget up; hishumanefollowers hitting upon the ingenious expedient of setting fire to some straw under his body, when, it is hardly necessary to add, ‘the wretched animal heav’d forth such groans, as stretch’d his leathern coat almost to bursting.’ This circumstance of thefirewas, however, no badsatire(emblematically considered) on the transactions of the day—the whole being little better than a—‘burning shame.’“The late Dr. Cowper is said to have had the merit, when mayor, of putting a stop to the attendance of the corporate body on these days; and Mr. Alderman Brodhurst, in his mayoralty, made a laudable but ineffectual effort to suppress a relic of barbarism ‘more honoured in thebreachthan theobservance.’”
“We shall not attempt a description of thetenderoffices practised, at such times, on so noble a creature—one, however, we cannot omit mentioning: in 1787, an unfortunate animal, smarting under his wounds and fatigue, was verynaturallyinduced tolie down;—theargumentmade use of, in this situation, however,as naturallyinduced him toget up; hishumanefollowers hitting upon the ingenious expedient of setting fire to some straw under his body, when, it is hardly necessary to add, ‘the wretched animal heav’d forth such groans, as stretch’d his leathern coat almost to bursting.’ This circumstance of thefirewas, however, no badsatire(emblematically considered) on the transactions of the day—the whole being little better than a—‘burning shame.’
“The late Dr. Cowper is said to have had the merit, when mayor, of putting a stop to the attendance of the corporate body on these days; and Mr. Alderman Brodhurst, in his mayoralty, made a laudable but ineffectual effort to suppress a relic of barbarism ‘more honoured in thebreachthan theobservance.’”
a spacious street, forming a direct line to the Eastgate, about 209 yards in length. The appearance of the street has been considerably modernized of late years; many of the old houses having been taken down, and spacious shops and dwelling-houses erected on their site. There is a very interesting old crypt to be seen on the premises of Messrs. Prichard and Dodd, which furnishes an additional illustration of the statement, that many of the buildings in the principal streets are erected on the remains of ancient religious houses. Dr. Ormerod gives it as his opinion that these conventual buildings occupied nearly, if not wholly, one-fourth of the city. The handsome premises occupied by Mr. Hugh Roberts, bookseller, and by Mr. Bolland, confectioner, have latterly been rebuilt in an elegantly appropriate style of architecture: and Messrs. Brown are now (1858) erecting a splendid range of shops. About two-thirds down the street on the right is Newgate-street; and opposite is St. Werburgh’s-street, leading to the Cathedral. There are two excellent inns in Eastgate-street—the Green Dragon and the Royal Hotel; the latter being a large and lofty edifice, the front resting on round stone pillars, betweenwhich, and the coffee-room there is a capacious piazza. Passing under the arch of the Eastgate, you enter
a spacious airy street, about 572 yards in length, and in most parts 18 in breadth; on the right hand is St. John-street, in which is situated the Post-office, and a little lower down the Mechanics’ Institution and News-room. The spacious circular building is a place of worship used by the Wesley an Methodists. The narrow street on the left leads to St. John’s Church and Priory, which will amply repay a careful and attentive study. Returning to the Cross, we now proceed down
which possesses remarkable interest, from the number of very old houses still remaining in it. This street has perhaps suffered less from the innovation of modern improvement than any other part of Chester. The rows on both sides extend nearly to the bottom of the street, and retain several marks of great antiquity. In front of an old house on the south side of the street, there is a post, with the date 1539 carved upon it. On the same side, nearer the Cross, is an old dwelling-house, with the inscription—
“God’s Providence is mine Inheritance—1652,”
“God’s Providence is mine Inheritance—1652,”
cut upon a beam in front, in legible characters. At the time when the plague was devastating the city, this was almost the only house which was exempt from its destructive havoc. Gratefully sensible of this singular blessing, the pious occupier placed this inscription on the front of his house, as a commemorative memorial of Divine Providence. Lower down, on the same side, is a singularly decorated old house, having the whole front divided into square compartments, filled with carved work of various descriptions, principally heraldry and scripture history. Adam and Eve;—Cain killing Abel;—Abraham offering up Isaac;—Susannah and the Elders—and a Martyrdom, are the principal subjects. There are three other compartments, two of them consisting of armorial bearings, including the Earldoms of Chester and Derby, crested with a bishop’s mitre; the third bears an inscription, illegible from the street, and the date 1613. This house was built by Dr. George Lloyd, of the family of Lloyd of Kinmell, in North Wales, Bishop of Chester from 1604 to 1615.
God’s Providence House
Lower down, on the same side of the street, below Nicholas-street,is a curious and spacious old palace, once the mansion of the Derby family, which is well deserving of the visitor’s notice. It is approached through a narrow passage. The front of the house presents some interesting specimens of curiously ornamental carved work. On this spot once stood aMonasteryof the order of Black Friars.
The street on the opposite side leads to the new Linen Hall, where the cheese fairs are periodically held. It was built by the Irish merchants in 1778. At that time the imports of linen were very considerable, and a large business was done.
At the corner of this street stands her Majesty’s Custom House. Adjoining is Trinity Church, which contains the mortal remains of Parnell the poet, and Matthew Henry, immortalized in his far-famed commentary. Trinity-street contains nothing worthy of special notice: it leads, however, to a memorable spot, of surpassing interest to all who love to trace the “records of a good man’s life.” Higher up is Crook-street, where stands the chapel built for Matthew Henry. These chapel walls once echoed the voice of that eloquent man, who assiduously asserted the pure principles of the Gospel. Associated, therefore, as the place is with the memory of a great mind, whose works have taken an honourable position in the religious literature of the country, it cannot but be an attraction to all who love to treasure the incidents which mark the biography of an eminent and a worthy man. Matthew Henry’s chapel is now occupied by the Unitarians.
Returning to the Cross, we proceed to
which forms the northern division of the city, and is 440 yards long. On the east side, adjoining St. Peter’s Church, are the Commercial-buildings, occupied as a subscription News-room, and the Library of the Archæological Society. The rows in Northgate-street are chiefly formed of wood; that on the west is the only one in general use, extending from the Cross to the Fish Market. The regular market for “Fish and vegetables,” says a History of Chester, 1791, “is in the square opposite the Exchange, which, in general, are plentiful and reasonable. In that useful article, salmon, no market in the kingdom did, some few years ago, excel it; indeed, such was the profusion of this valuable fish, that masters were often restricted, by a clause of indenture, from giving it more than twice a week to their apprentices! Though thebounty of Providence, in this particular, is yet unabated, such restriction is no longer necessary—someartificialcause or other verykindlyrendering this fish, at the present day, adelicacyeven to themastersthemselves.”
is situated in the Market-place, on the west side of Northgate-street. It was commenced in 1695, and completed in 1698, at an expense of £1,000, towards which Roger Whitley, then Mayor, contributed largely. It is a good brick building, ornamented with stone-work, supported by stone pillars on the ground floor, through which is a thoroughfare from south to north. In a niche on the south front is a statue of Queen Anne in her coronation robes. On the right of this statue is a tablet, having the arms of the Earldom of Chester on a circular shield in the centre, and above these the coats of the Principality of Wales and Duchy of Cornwall, having each their respective coronets over them. The blazon of this tablet is believed to have been furnished by the last Randle Holmes, Deputy Norroy King at Arms, who died in 1707. On the left of the statue is another tablet, containing the Royal arms of England as borne by Queen Anne. The centre of the building is occupied by theCommon Hall, wherein are held the city sessions and the elections for members of parliament for the borough. The north end of the Common Hall is fitted up as a court of justice, having a bench, bar, witness and jury boxes. On each side of the bench are ornaments, composed of lictors’ fasces and spears, used to support the sword and mace.
Bishop Lord’s House Watergate St. Chester A.D. 1615
Adjoining and communicating with the Common Hall on the north is the Council-room, commonly called thePentice, where the mayor and magistrates sit as a court of Petty Sessions. Over the mayor’s seat in this room is a splendid full length portrait of George the Third in his coronation robes,—the figure by Gainsborough, the drapery by Reynolds,—presented to the city by the late Marquis of Westminster, in 1808. On the south side of the Exchange-buildings is the City Assembly-room, where the meetings of the Town Council are held. The Town Hall, the Pentice Court, and the Assembly-room, are all decorated with fine portraits of benefactors to the city, and of eminent men who have been officially engaged in its highest legal appointments, or in the administration of its municipal affairs. Among these worthies may be seen the donors of local charities, and other celebrities; asRecorders Comberbach, Leycester, Levinge, Townsend, and Sir W. Williams; Sir Henry Bunbury, M.P. for Chester in eight successive parliaments during the reigns of Queen Anne and George the First; Sir John Grey Egerton, M.P. for the city from 1807 to 1818; Thomas Cholmondeley, Esq., Mayor in 1761; Robert, Earl Grosvenor, in his parliamentary robes, painted by Jackson; Richard, Earl Grosvenor, and Thomas Grosvenor, Esq., M.P., in their robes of the civic mayoralty, painted by West; W. Cross, Esq., first Mayor after the passing of the Municipal Reform Act; and W. Wardell, Esq., Mayor in 1841. At the north end of the Exchange is the Market, appropriated for the sale of butter; and a few yards apart is another building of equal breadth, but longer, for butchers’ meat, both of which are neatly fitted up and well adapted for their respective purposes. We recommend the tourist now to continue his walk up the street, for the purpose of visiting the Training College, which, we doubt not, our former description has made him curious to see. Supposing this to have been done, we now return on the east side, passing through the Northgate about 100 yards, where we come to a narrow avenue on the left, under an old archway, the remains of one of the gates of the monastery of St. Werburgh. A little further down, opposite the Market-hall, stands a noble arch called
which is a Gothic pointed arch, with a postern at the side, both of which are included in a larger obtuse one, apparently of the same order. The interior of the gateway is vaulted with stone, with ribs, and carved keystones at the intersections; and the rooms over were originally approached by a spiral staircase. On the south side was the porter’s lodge, and on the other St. Thomas’s-court. Before this gate were anciently raised the booths for the merchants frequenting the Abbot’s fair; these booths were covered with reeds, which the monks were empowered to gather from Stanlaw Marsh; and here also the performers in the Chester Mysteries commenced the exhibition of their pageants. This was formerly the grand entrance into the monastery, which appears to have occupied a very extensive range. On passing through the arched gateway we enter into the Abbey-square. On the right hand is a wall, enclosing the episcopal palace, which was rebuilt by Bishop Keene, out of his private resources, at an expense of £2,200, soon after his promotion to the see in 1752. In former days the residenceof the Abbots of St. Werburgh stood on this site. The spacious edifice at the end of the palace wall is the Registry Office, of which Dickens has given an interesting sketch in his ‘Household Words,’ in one of his able papers, entitled, ‘The Doom of English Wills.’ The entire arrangements and management of the office are described in terms of unqualified commendation, highly complimentary to the talented registrar, who is described as “a gentleman who fulfils the duties of his office in person with assiduity.” In the centre of the square is a shrubbery, enclosed with an iron palisading, having in the centre an elliptic column, which was once a pillar under the Exchange; but on removing it to build a shop there, the Corporation presented it to the Dean and Chapter, who appropriated it to its present use. In the north-east angle of the square is the Deanery, built on the site where once stood an old Gothic structure, called St. Thomas’s Chapel. Returning into Northgate-street, the next narrow avenue on the left gives us a fine view of the west transept of the Cathedral, with its beautiful window, enriched with elegant tracery. A few paces below we arrive at
The citizens of Chester appear to have been early distinguished for a love of theatricals. From a MS. entitled, “Certayne collections of aunchiante times concerninge the aunchiante and famous Citty of Chester,” by Archdeacon Rogers, we learn that in the beginning of the fourteenth century, Randal Higden, a monk of Chester, “translated the Bible into several partes and plays, so as the common people might learne the same by theyre playinge.” Thesespectacles, then called theWhitsun Plays, were first performed in 1328, during the mayoralty of Sir John Arneway, at the expense of the city companies; and being “profitable for them, for all both far and near came to see them,” they were repeated annually on Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday in Whitsun week, for nearly 250 years, until 1574, when they were suppressed by authority. The theatre for these performances was of the original Thespian cast, a four-wheeled scaffold or waggon, whereof the body served for a tyring room, and the roof for the stage, whereon the members of the different city companies did “each man play his part.” The first place of performance was at the Abbey Gate, that “the monks and churche might have the first sighte, and then the stage was drawne to the High Crosse beforethe Mayor and Aldermen, and soe from streete to streete; and when one pageant was ended another came in the place thereof, till all that were appoynted for the daye were ended.” Each company had its own peculiar parts allotted to its members to perform in the Whitsun Plays, of which a list is given in the above quoted MS.
Old Palace House
In addition to the Whitsun Plays, the citizens were anciently entertained with processional pageants by the different companies, which latter appear to have survived the suppression of the former for many years. They were suppressed for some time by the party in power during the Commonwealth, but revived with great splendour at the Restoration.
The pageants were abolished by order of the Corporation in 1678.
“No circumstance,” says the old History from which we have already quoted, “can evince the strange mutations to which things are liable, more than this place, which was originally achapeldedicated toSt. Nicholas, and devoted toreligion; afterwards acommon halldevoted tojustice; next awarehousedevoted totrade; and now aplayhousedevoted toamusement.”
The present writer has to note another change: the “Playhouse” has become aMusic Hall, handsome and commodious. A few years since a company was formed for the purpose of erecting a spacious Hall, available for musical and literary recreations, public meetings, and social celebrations. The Hall was built by Mr. J. D. Williams, from designs by Mr. James Harrison; and a remarkably fine organ, by Jackson, of Liverpool, has also been erected. Seats are fitted up for an audience of 1,400 persons, and the orchestra is capable of accommodating 300 performers. The cost of the building, with the organ and fittings, was £5,000. The Hall was opened, on November 26th, 1855, with a grand Miscellaneous Concert, at which Madame Clara Novello was the principal vocalist, and was crowded by a brilliant gathering of the beauty and fashion of the city and neighbourhood. Since that time it has frequently been used for the performance of oratorios and concerts, for lectures, public meetings, and other purposes, except theatrical entertainments, which are prohibited by the terms of the lease under which the site is held from the ecclesiastical commissioners, in whom the fee simple of the property is vested.
Returning to the Cross, whence we set out, we now direct our attention to
which is an open and spacious street, in length from the Cross to the Bridge about 554 yards. This street is characterized by many striking features of deep interest to the antiquarian, and indeed to all who love to visit the localities which are associated with any remarkable events of our national and ecclesiastical history. Although the buildings now present a much more modern aspect than they did some years ago, there are still remaining many conspicuous proofs of the antiquity of the city, and many curious remains which give it peculiar attractions.
A little way down the street, on the left hand, is a house now occupied by Mr. W. Brittain, woollen draper, which is rendered remarkable from a peculiar, and, as it resulted,fortunateincident, which occurred there in 1558. In that year Dr. Cole, Dean of St. Paul’s, came to Chester on his way to Ireland, entrusted with a commission from Queen Mary, for prosecuting the Protestants in that part of the kingdom. The commissioner stopped one night in this house on his way, then a noted inn, called theBlue Posts, where he was visited by the Mayor, to whom, in the course of conversation, he communicated his errand, taking out a leather box out of his cloak bag, and saying, in a tone of exultation, “Here is what will lash the heretics of Ireland!” This announcement was overheard by the landlady of the house, who had a brother in Dublin; and whilst the commissioner was complimenting his worship down stairs, the good woman, prompted by a tender regard for the safety of her brother, opened the box, and taking out the commission, placed in its stead a pack of cards, with the knave of clubs uppermost. The unsuspecting Doctor packed up the box again, and with its far different contents proceeded on his journey. On his arrival at the Castle of Dublin, the precious box was presented to the Lord Deputy and Privy Council, who, on opening it, found, in the place of the commission, the pack of cards, prefaced with the significantknave of clubs. The surprise of the assembly was of course very great, and the Doctor’s perhaps the greatest of all; he was not lack in his protestations that the commission hehadreceived, and was entirely ignorant how it had disappeared. “Let us have another commission,” said the Deputy; and forthwith the amazed and chagrined commissioner returned to Court for the purpose; but before he could return to Ireland, Queen Mary died. Elizabeth, her successor, rewarded the woman,whose name was Elizabeth Edwards, with a pension of £40 a year during her life.
A little lower down, on the same side, are the remains of a Roman Bath and Hypocaust, which we have described under the head of “Roman Antiquities.” This curious relic, we take for granted, the visitor will “go and see.”
A little further is the neat little church of St. Michael, recently erected on the site of the old church, which had become so much dilapidated, that apprehensions were excited for its safety.
Passing Pepper-street, adjoining St. Michael’s, we next meet withThe Albion Hotel, a capacious building, connected with which is an Assembly-room, and behind the premises extensive pleasure-grounds and a bowling-green.
Passing on to the lower end of the street, we come to St. Olave’s Church, an edifice of very mean pretensions, but of very ancient foundation. In the copy of an old Court Roll, the advowson of St. Olave’s is mentioned among other advowsons, belonging to the Abbey of St. Werburgh. A clerk was instituted and inducted upon the presentation of the Abbey, in the time of King John. Divine service is discontinued at St. Olave’s, and the parishioners attend St. Michael’s. Continuing down the street we arrive at a handsome arch called the Bridgegate, beyond which is the old bridge, which will lead the tourist (should his curiosity incline him) to Edgar’s Cave, already described under the head of antiquities.
Returning on the west side of the street, we come to a steep lane, called St. Mary’s-hill, which leads to the Castle and to St. Mary’s Church, a most interesting edifice, worthy of the tourist’s examination.
Opposite St. Olave’s Church, before mentioned, is an old house, formerly occupied by the Gamul family, which possesses great interest from the fact of its having given protection to Charles I. during the siege of Chester by the Parliamentary forces. There is some very curious painted panel work and beautiful carving in the interior, which render it well worthy of inspection. A little higher up is an antiquated building called “The Falcon Inn,” a fine specimen of the old timber houses of Chester. Adjoining this house formerly stood theOld Lamb Row, which was one of the most remarkable objects of curiosity in the city. The materials of which the buildings were composed were the same as that of the Falcon, which is probably an older building than the OldLamb-row was. It was constructed of massy beams of oak, heavy roofs, and the interstices of the timber in the fronts filled up with sticks and clay. The age of the row is pretty clearly determined by the inscription on a stone, discovered after the fall of the building:—
16—H—55R. H.
16—H—55R. H.
The initials of Randle Holme, the builder. This was the mansion of the family of Holme, the famous Cheshire antiquaries. In the year 1670, the third Randle made some important and obnoxious alterations, which brought upon him the censure of the Corporation, who ordered that “the nuisance erected by Randle Holme in his new building in Bridge-street, near to the two churches, be taken down, as it annoys his neighbours, and hinders their prospect from their houses.” He proceeded with his work, however,sans cérémonie; and in the following year Mr. Holme, painter, “was fined £3 6s. 8d. for contempt to the Mayor, inproceedingin his building in Bridge-street.” It continued the residence of that heraldic family so late as 1707. It appears that the Holme family subsequently sank into extreme indigence, and at no very distant period, we believe, a descendant was an occasional boots and waiter at a tavern in Liverpool. Such are the reverses of fortune! How this property became alienated from the Holmeses has not been ascertained. It was occupied about the middle of the last century as a public-house, called “The Lamb,” whence it derived the name of the Lamb-row. In 1821, in the middle of the day, it suddenly gave way and tumbled into the street: happily without any injury to the inhabitants. An old woman was sitting in the upper room at the moment the overhanging roof bore down the trembling building beneath; the wall of the apartment separated within six inches of a chair on which she was seated, but she fortunately escaped.
After passing Grosvenor-street, we come to White Friars, which derives its name from a monastery of Carmelites or White Friars being once located there. The next turning is Common Hall-street, so called from its being the place where the Common Hall of the city formerly stood, as its name imports. Some think that it occupied the site of a building now used as a Dissenting chapel; but Ormerod is of opinion that it stood on thesouthside of the street, near to several old almshouses which still remain.
Prior to the era of the Reformation, Chester abounded in religious institutions and edifices. We have already indicated this fact, in pointing out the localities where some of these religious buildings were situated. There are many convincing evidences, in the lower part of several houses in the principal streets, that they have been erected on the ruins of these ecclesiastical foundations. A remarkable instance in support of this supposition has recently been brought to light, upon clearing out an underground cellar behind the shop of Messrs. Powell and Edwards, cutlers, a little farther up in the street, when the remains of
were discovered. The public are much indebted to the care and good taste of these gentlemen, that this valuable antiquity has been so admirably preserved; and as they are most courteous in affording strangers the privilege of examining it, we doubt not that the opportunity will be gladly taken. The chapel is of an oblong form, running from east to west. Its dimensions are 42 feet in length, 15 feet 3 inches in breadth, and the height, from the surface of the floor to the intersections of the groining of the roof, 14 feet. It was partially lighted through the upper part of the west end, in which there are three small windows, divided by stone mullions, and protected by iron bars. On examining the intersection of the groins, marks were discovered on the stonework, that a couple of lamps had been used for lighting. The entrance to the east end was by a flight of steps cut out of the rock; this passage is now closed, but from what remains there is no doubt this was the case. On the south side is an Anglo-Norman-Gothic doorway, attained by three or four circular steps, and forming an outlet within its inner and outer wall, by another flight of steps, to the surface above the building. At the west end are two niches, in which the baptismal fonts are supposed to have been placed; one of these was found during the excavation, and is deposited in one of these recesses; the other was unfortunately destroyed by the workmen. The date of the erection of this interesting structure is supposed to be early in the thirteenth century. Taking into consideration the fact that not far from this spot were the monasteries of Grey Friars and White Friars, it has been conjectured by some that in this chapel they assembled fortheir religious celebrations. It seems to be, however, a more feasible hypothesis, that the site was once occupied by some order of religious house; that the chapel formed a part of the erection, and was used by the inmates for their religious ceremonies and worship. In the upper part of the premises there appear to be some characteristic remains of the ancient structure. Lacking any further evidence as to the character and extent of this venerable building than the place itself supplies, the question is involved in uncertainty. The crypt is a most interesting curiosity, worthy of the investigation of the antiquarian, and to his better judgment we leave the subject.
Chester Cathedral, South West View A.D. 875
Previousto the Roman conquests, the Britons were accustomed to celebrate the rites of Druidism; but as it was the custom of the Romans to carry into the lands they conquered not only their civil polity, but also their religion, the gods of the Pantheon became consequently the gods of our ancestors. Near the existing memorials of Druidical superstition there arose the majestic fanes of a more polished mythology. At Bath there is said to have been a temple dedicated to Minerva, while on the site now occupied by the splendid cathedral of St. Paul there was a temple to Diana. It appears, from a passage in King’s ‘Vale Royal,’ there was a tradition generally accepted in his day, that on the present site of Chester Cathedral was a temple dedicated to Apollo, during the period that the city was inhabited by the Legionaries.
“I have heard it,” he says, “from a scholar residing in the city, when I was there, anno 1653, that there was a temple dedicated to Apollo in olden time, in a place adjoining to the Cathedral Church, by the constant tradition of the learned.”
We are not aware that the supposition is capable of being verified by any existing record; but when we take into consideration the policy generally pursued by the Romans in subjugating a country, it seems to be countenanced by strong probability. With this form of Paganism, however, there came zealous men, of true apostolic stamp, whose earnest inculcation of vital principles accelerated the progress of a better faith. So conspicuous had that progress become early in the third century, that Tertullian, in his work written against the Jews,A.D.209, states that “even those places in Britain hitherto inaccessible to the Roman arms, have been subdued by the gospel of Christ.”
The ground on which the temple of Apollo once stood (if the tradition be trustworthy) was occupied, early in the second century,by a monastery dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, “which was the mother church and burial place to all Chester, and seven miles about Chester, and so continued for the space of three hundred years and more.” To this monastery (according to Bradshaw the monk) the relics of St. Werburgh, daughter of Wulphere, King of Mercia, were removed from Hanbury in 875, for fear of an incursion of the Danes, and here re-buried with great pomp; a ceremony usually called “the translation of the body.” The same author informs us that the army of Griffin, King of Wales, was stricken with blindness for their sacrilegious boldness, in attempting to disturb these sainted remains. This, and other reputed miracles of St. Werburgh, appear to have induced the celebrated Ethelfleda, Countess of Mercia, to translate the monastery of St. Peter and St. Paul to the centre of the city, and to erect on its site a convent or monastery of secular nuns, dedicated to St. Werburgh and St. Oswald. Earl Leofric was a great benefactor to this foundation, having repaired its decayed buildings at his own expense: and in 1093, when (says Rodolphus Glaber) “princes stroveà viethat cathedral churches and minsters should be erected in a more decent and seemly form, and when Christendom roused, as it were, herself, and, casting away her old habiliments, did put on every where the bright and white robe of the churches.” Hugh Lupus expelled the canons secular, and laid the foundation of a magnificent building, the remains of which are still existing; it was established by him as an Abbey of Benedictine Monks from Bec in Normandy, to pray (as the foundation charter expresses it) “for the soul of William their King, and those of King William his most noble father, his mother Queen Maud, his brothers and sisters, King Edward the Confessor, themselves the founders, and those of their fathers, mothers, antecessors, heirs, parents, and barons, and of all Christians as well living as deceased.” The confirmation charter by the second Ranulf (surnamed De Gernon or Gernons), Earl of Chester, in which the grant of Hugh Lupus is recapitulated, is in the possession of the Marquis of Westminster, by whose kindness this most important and interesting instrument has been lent for the use of the Archæological Association, and has been published in the pages of their journal. It is most beautifully written in columns or pages, for the facility of reading. The charter occupies nine, and commences with the copy of the original grant of “Hugone Cestreasi comite, anno ab incarnatione Domini millesimo nonugesimo” to the Abbey of St. Werburgh, which was witnessed byAnselm, Archbishop of Canterbury, followed by the grants of several of the other witnesses, and it concludes by the confirmation of them all by the second Ranulf: (Ego secundus Ranulfus comes “Cestrie concedo et confirmo hos omnibus donationes quos mei antecessores vel barones eor’m dederunt,”) with additional grants from himself. Anselm, Abbot of Bec, afterward Archbishop of Canterbury, regulated the new foundation, and appointed Richard, his chaplain, the first abbot.
Hugh Lupus, following the example of most of his predecessors, lived a life of the wildest luxury and rapine. At length, falling sick from the consequence of his excesses, and age and disease coming on, the old hardened soldier was struck with remorse; and—an expiation common enough in those days—the great Hugh Lupus took the cowl, retired in the last state of disease into the monastery, and in three days was no more.
The Abbey was so richly endowed by the founder and his successors, that at the dissolution its revenues amounted to no less a sum than £1,073 17s. 7d. per annum.
On the general dissolution of the monasteries, Chester was erected into an independent bishopric, and St. Werburgh’s was converted into a Cathedral Church, which it has ever since remained. It was dedicated to Christ and the Blessed Virgin Mary; and a dean and six prebendaries installed in it, Thomas Clarke, the last abbot, being appointed the first dean.
The principal portions of this venerable pile have been erected at different periods from the fourteenth to the sixteenth century, although there are some parts which bear indubitable marks of a much earlier origin; the greater part, perhaps, belongs to the fourteenth or fifteenth century, when the richly decorated style of Gothic architecture was at its zenith in this country. The Cathedral, from whatever side it is viewed, presents a massive appearance, and exhibits a pleasing variety of styles, in accordance with the taste of different ages. Mr. Asphitel has said that he found beauties which grew on him more and more at every visit. The Norman remains are extremely fine—there is work of all kinds of great beauty—and there are the most curious and instructive transitions from style to style that perhaps were ever contained in one building.
Its general style may be termed the Norman-Gothic. It has been generally supposed that there are also some remaining specimens of the Saxon; but Mr. Asphitel, in an interestinglecture delivered before the British Archæological Association, stated that he could not, from the most minute research, discover any portion of the Saxon church; he considered it possible there might be some portions in the foundations, but none were visible.
The west front is said to have been the work of Abbot Ripley, who was appointed to the abbacy in 1485. It is now in an unfinished state, and it seems more than probable that there was an intention to form two western towers. The foundation of them was laid with much ceremony by Abbot Birchensaw in 1508, the Mayor being then present; but the project was abandoned, most likely for want of funds: had the original design been executed, says Winkle, it would not have been very imposing. The west entrance is a singular and beautiful composition: the door itself is a Tudor arch, enclosed within a square head; the spandrils are filled with rich and elegant foliations; the hollow moulding on the top is deep and broad, and filled with a row of angels, half-lengths; all this is recessed within another Tudor arch, under another square head, with plain spandrils of ordinary panelling. On each side of the door are four niches, with their usual accompaniments of crocketted canopies, pinnacles, and pendants; and instead of brackets, the statues formerly stood on pedestals, with good bases and capitals. Above this entrance is the great western window of the nave, deeply and richly recessed; it is of eight lights, with elaborate tracery of the kind most common in the latest age of the pointed style. The arch of the window is much depressed, and has above it a flowing crocketted canopy; the gable has no parapet, but is finished off with a simple coping; the flanking-turrets are octagonal, and have belts of panelled tracery and embattled parapets. Leaving the west front, and turning to the south, a rich and deep porch presents itself behind the Consistory Court; the porch is flanked by buttresses, which once had pinnacles. The entrance is under a Tudor arch within a square head, the spandrils richly panelled; over the square head is a broad belt of quatrefoil panelling; above that a hollow moulding, adorned with the Tudor flower; above this are two flat-headed windows of two lights each, with a deep niche between them, resting on a projecting bracket; the statue is of course gone, but the projecting and richly decorated canopy remains, on both sides of which the wall above is adorned with two rows of panelling; the open embattled parapet, which once crowned the whole, has disappeared. The south side of the nave and its aisle is plain, but not without dignity; the windowsare all pointed, and of perpendicular character; those of the aisle have straight canopies, with projecting buttresses between, which still have niches, and once had both pinnacles and statues; the aisle has no parapet. The windows of the clerestory are unusually large and lofty, and their canopies are flowing in form, but perfectly plain and without finials; they have no buttresses between them, and the parapet is very shallow and quite plain.
The next feature of the Cathedral is a very singular one, and, indeed, unique—viz., the south wing of the transept. It is no uncommon case to find the two portions of the transept unlike each other in some respects; but in no other instance are they so perfectly dissimilar as at Chester. Here the south wing is nearly as long as the nave, and of equal length with the choir, and considerably broader than either, having, like them, aisles on both sides; while the north, which probably stands on the original foundations, has no aisles, is very short, and only just the breadth of one side of the central tower. The east and west faces of this south portion of the transept are nearly similar. The aisles have no parapet; the windows are pointed, of four lights each, with late decorated tracery and small intervening buttresses. The clerestory has a parapet similar to that of the nave; the windows are pointed, large, and lofty, with perpendicular tracery and two transoms. The south front of this transept, flat at top, is flanked with square embattled turrets and buttresses, and has a large window of the perpendicular age, filling up nearly all the space between them. The south face of the aisles, on each side, have pointed windows and sloping tops, without parapet, but flanked by double buttresses at the external angles, without pinnacles.