1. Budding on the briar stock.2. Cuttings.3. Layering.
Budding.—This is the best-known method of propagating. And it is so widely practised by amateurs and gardeners of all degree, that it is better to get an object-lesson in the art than to depend on written instructions. With a little practise any one with neat fingers can bud. But great care must be taken in the operation, not to bruise the bark of the bud or "shield" that is to be inserted in the stock.
The best stocks, whether for dwarfs or standards,are those of the wild Dog Rose from woods and hedgerows. These should be taken up in October and November, care being taken that each stock has fair roots, that the roots are not torn or bruised, and that they are not dry and shrivelled when planted. In fact, they ought to be treated with just the same care we bestow on our new roses when we plant them out. The stocks may be at once shortened, to about three feet for half-standards, and very strong ones for specimen or weeping roses may be kept six and eight feet long. But in shortening both, they must always be cut just above a bud. In the following summer these stocks will have thrown out side-shoots; and it is in these that the buds are to be inserted. We can tell when "the bark will run,"i.e.that it is ready for budding, by trying whether the thorns break off clean when pushed by the thumb. If the thorn bends and does not leave the bark, the wood is not ripe enough. If the thorn sticks tight to the wood, and yet is brittle, the wood is too ripe.
Dwarf stocks are treated much in the same way, but must be planted nearer the surface than standards; for when they are budded the earth must be removed right down to the roots, in order to set the bud as low as possible, as it is inserted in the stem itself, and not in the young wood of the year.
We then choose the "scion"—a twig of the rose we wish to propagate which has already flowered,with plump but not too large buds behind each leaf stalk. Inserting the budding-knife about half an inch above the lowest of these buds or "eyes," we slice down, making a little dip inwards towards the wood as the knife passes the bud, to nearly an inch below it, not cutting through the bark, but peeling it off the scion. The thin slice of wood which adheres to the inside of the strip of bark containing the bud, is now removed by inserting the knife between it and the bark, and jerking it out sharply. Nothing should now be left in the bark save the soft green substance of the "eye." But if this has been dragged out with the wood, the bud is useless, and must be thrown away. The shield of bark is then trimmed to a point below.
The stock is now made ready to receive the bud. At the point we have chosen for inserting the bud—in standards let it be as close as possible to the main stem—a perpendicular slit from half an inch to an inch long is made with the budding-knife, care being taken only to cut through the bark and not to wound the wood below. A short cross-cut is made at the top of the slit. Then the bark is gently raised on each side downwards from this cross-cut, with the flat handle of the knife.
Into this slit the bud is slipped by putting the pointed lower end into the cross slit, and pushing it down as far as it will go. We then cut off any bark at the top of the bud that overlaps the cross-cut, sothat the shield fits in perfectly, when the side flaps of bark are brought gently over it.
With a bit of Raffia grass, well moistened in water, we now bind up the bud; beginning from below with a double turn over one end of the Raffia, and keeping it quite flat, exactly in the way we put on a surgical bandage. When we come to the bud itself, the Raffia must be wound tightly and as close to the eye as possible without actually touching it. When the whole slit is completely and evenly covered, slip the end of the Raffia through the last turn and pull it tight. The operation is now complete.
Roses on their own roots are grown from cuttings, and it is a system which suits many varieties.
How to make a cutting.—Cuttings are taken from well-ripened twigs which have already flowered, or from a lateral upon the main flowering shoot, which has ceased growing without bearing a blossom. They should be from two to six or seven inches in length, with three to nine buds upon them. And judgment is needed regarding these buds in choosing the twig, as we must take one on which they are neither immature nor too fully developed. In the case of a cutting with ten leaves we cut off the top a quarter of an inch above the fourth leaf, and the same distance below the tenth. The four lower leaves are then cut off close to the bud they cover, and thethree upper ones are left on. When the cutting is planted, two-thirds of it should be in the soil.
Fig. 3.—Rose cutting with a heel, 4 leaves cut, 2 leaves left.Fig. 3.—Rose cutting with a heel, 4 leaves cut, 2 leaves left.
Cuttings are taken in two ways.
1. With a heel; that is a small portion of the wood of the stem from which the twig grows.
2. Without a heel; being cut through just below a bud.
Fig. 4.—Rose cutting without a heel, 4 leaves cut, 2 leaves left.Fig. 4.—Rose cutting without a heel, 4 leaves cut, 2 leaves left.
Cuttings under glass.—Cuttings of the choice kinds of Teas, Hybrid Teas, Hybrid Perpetuals, and Chinas are raised under glass, taken from pot plants as soon as they have flowered in the spring. The cuttings are put in pots filled with fibrous loam and silver sand, about six in a five-inch pot. When readyto root at the end of two or three weeks, the pots are placed in a frame on bottom heat to start growth. The same plan is pursued in the autumn, with cuttings taken from plants grown out of doors; but they do not strike as rapidly as those taken from pot plants earlier.
Cuttings in the open ground.—This is an interesting and easy way of getting a good stock of many kinds of hardy, strong-growing Perpetuals, Sweet Briars, Ramblers, etc. And it may be successfully carried on from early in August to the middle of October.
Cuttings are inserted three inches apart in rows, leaving some ten inches between each row. They may be either set in a trench, or dibbled into a specially prepared bed. I have tried both plans, and find the following very successful. A bit of ground, partially but not too much shaded, is forked up; a layer of good rotten manure laid on it; upon this three inches of leaf mould; on this again three inches of sharp, sandy road-scrapings—silver sand would be as good or better, but here the gravel road-grit is handy. The bed is then stamped down as hard as possible, until it forms a firm solid mass. The cuttings are then inserted in rows—a hole of the right depth for each being made into the compost with a smooth sharp-pointed stick the size of a lead pencil—a long wooden penholder is a good dibble. Into this hole the cutting is thrust till its base restsfirmly on the bottom of the hole, and the soil is pressed tight round the stem with the fingers. When all are in place a thorough soaking of water is given them; and except for firming them in when worms raise the soil about them, they must not be disturbed until the top leaves begin to fall. We shall then see which are likely to strike, and can pull out those whose wood has begun to shrivel, as they are dead.
Many of these cuttings will show flower the next summer. And by November—i.e.fifteen months after planting—they can be lifted and planted out in their permanent quarters.
The other plan is to make a little trench eight inches or so deep in good loamy soil, with a layer of silver sand at the bottom. The cuttings are set against the sloped side of the trench, and it is then filled up with soil and stamped in very firmly. I find this answers best for the Penzance Sweet Briars; but personally I prefer the former plan for other roses.
The cuttings must be well watered and carefully weeded from time to time, and in the winter must be given slight protection by fronds of bracken or boughs of evergreens laid lightly over them.
This is chiefly resorted to when it is wished to increase the stock rapidly of some very choice rose. It can be carried on in summer and early autumn.
The directions given in Mr. Rivers' Rose Amateur's Guide of 1843 are so admirable that I quote themin extenso.
"About the middle of July in most seasons the shoots will be found about eighteen inches or two feet in length; from these, two-thirds of the leaves should be cut off, close to the shoot, beginning at the base, with a very sharp knife; the shoot must then be brought to the ground, so as to be able to judge in what place the hole must be made to receive it; it may be made large enough to hold a quarter of a peck of compost; in heavy and retentive soils this should be rotten dung and pit sand in equal quantities, well mixed; the shoot must then be 'tongued,'i.e.the knife introduced just below a bud and brought upwards, so as to cut about half way through; this must be done at the side or back of the shoot (not by any means at the front or in the bend), so that the tongue does not close; to make this certain a small piece of glass or thin earthenware may be introduced to keep it open. Much nicety is required to have the tongue at the upper part of the shoot, so as not to be in the part which forms the bow, as it is of consequence that it should be within two inches of the surface, so as to feel the effects of atmospheric heat; unless this is attended to the roots will not be emitted quickly; the tongued part must be placed in the centre of the compost, and a moderate-sized stone put on the surface of the ground to keep the layer in its place.The first week in November the layers may be taken from the parent plant, and either potted as required, or planted out where they are to remain. Those shoots not long enough in July and August may be layered in October, when the layers are taken from the shoots, and, if any are forgotten, February and March will be the most favourable month for the operation: as a general rule, July is the proper season."
Rugosa. ROSA ALBA.Rugosa.ROSA ALBA.
Rugosa.ROSA ALBA.
SUMMER-FLOWERING ROSES—OLD AND NEW.
Letus now consider those roses which, although their lovely season of blooming is but short, shed such fragrance and delight on the gardens of rich and poor. Our oldest favourites first—theCabbage, sweetest of all; theMoss; the Maiden's Blush; the Crimson Damask; the Austrian, Scotch, and Sweet Briars; the tinyRose de Meaux, so seldom seen now in England that when we find bunches of it on every barrow in the Paris streets, to be had for a few centimes, we fall upon it as on lost treasure.
Then the climbers, the Ayrshires, Banksias, Polyanthas and Evergreen. And when to these we add all the novelties which Japan has bestowed upon us in the Rugosas and the Wichuraianas, and those marvels which the hybridists are deriving from them and introducing every year in such numbers, we may well consider where best to make a place for these lovely roses, so that from April till August we can rejoice in their varied beauty.
Of the climbing roses I treat in a separate chapter. But if with regard to the dwarf or bush roses, somemay raise objections to massing them in by themselves, because they are so soon out of flower and leave the beds bare of bloom for the rest of the summer, the objection—a valid one—may be overcome in two ways. First, by planting China roses among them and an edging of the charming Dwarf Polyantha roses round them. Secondly, by planting lilies and late-flowering perennials with them, which will be in bloom as soon as they are over.
But to my mind, theCabbage,Moss, Provence and Damask roses look most thoroughly in place in the old-fashioned mixed border along the walk in the kitchen garden, where they flower after wallflowers, daffodils and polyanthus, with lilies and pinks, stocks and carnations, and all the delightful and fragrant odds and ends that, somehow, make it the spot in the whole garden to which all footsteps turn instinctively.
Provence. CABBAGE.Provence.CABBAGE.
Provence.CABBAGE.
The Provence orCabbage Rose,R. centifolia,
is perhaps the oldest favourite in English gardens; for it was introduced as far back as 1596. Said to have come originally from the Caucasus, it may well be, as its Latin and French names suggest, the Romans' favourite "hundred-leaved-rose" mentioned by Pliny. And as it was found in Southern France at a very early date, it became known as the "Provence Rose." In spite of all new comers, beautiful and attractive as they are, the "Old Cabbage Rose" holds its own to-day in the garden of every true rose-lover, asunsurpassed in fragrance and colour. Its pure white variety, theRose Unique, discovered in a garden in Suffolk, in 1777, is far less common and less vigorous than the pinkCabbagerose. But if it can be induced to grow it is a very beautiful object in the summer garden, especially as a standard on the briar. The tinyRose de MeauxandSpongare also miniature Provence roses—and as I have said, ought to be more widely grown in English gardens.
Moss. COMMON.Moss.COMMON.
Moss.COMMON.
The Moss Rose,R. Muscosa,
originally a sport from the common Provence orCabbage rose, was also introduced into England from Holland in 1596; and many varieties have since been derived from it, some of the newer ones having the additional merit of being perpetual flowering. The best are the commonPink Moss,Comtesse Murinais,Celina,Crested,Gloire des Mousseuses,Laneii,White Bath;while there is a delightful little pink, mossedRose de Meaux. Of the perpetuals,Blanche Moreau,Salet,Perpetual White Moss, andMme. Wm. Paulare all good.
The Old Double Yellow Provence,Rosa HemisphæricaorSulphureais somewhat rare now, and only found in one or two modern catalogues or in very old gardens.
The French Rose,R. Gallica, also calledRose de Provins,
as its name implies, is a native of France; butit is also found in Italy, Switzerland and Austria. A good deal of confusion reigns on the subject of this rose andR. Damascena;for varieties of both are often misplaced in each other's classes. For instance, the common redGallica, the "Apothecary's rose," is usually called theRed Damask, and its many striped varieties, especiallyRosa Mundi, are mistaken for the trueYork and Lancaster, which is a true Damask rose.
Gallica. RED DAMASK (The Apothecary's Rose.)Gallica.RED DAMASK(TheApothecary'sRose.)
Gallica.RED DAMASK(TheApothecary'sRose.)
Rosa Gallica, however, is easily distinguished fromDamascena. Its flowering shoots are upright, with few prickles, and rigid leaves. It seeds very freely; and this accounts for the innumerable varieties which were in vogue fifty or sixty years ago. It is said that one grower near London had two thousand different sorts. It is still largely grown in England for distilling purposes, on account of its delicious perfume; and a field of the "Apothecary's rose" in full flower is a lovely sight in July. But the chief centre of the industry used to be round Provins, the old capital of La Brie, about sixty miles from Paris, on the way to Châlons. Here vast fields were grown, the petals being used not only for scent, but for conserves and medicinal purposes.
When well grown, namely well fed and well pruned by cutting out all the weak wood and shortening back the strong shoots to six or seven eyes,Rosa gallicais worthy of a choice place as a decorative rose, whether in the house or on the exhibition bench, when thealmost single flowers open and show their brilliant golden stamens. The best sorts grown at present areŒillet Parfait,Perle des Panachées,Rosa Mundi,Red Damask(the all-red form of this last),Village Maid, andTuscany.
Climbing Damask. MRS. O. G. ORPEN.Climbing Damask.MRS. O. G. ORPEN.
Climbing Damask.MRS. O. G. ORPEN.
The Damask Rose,R. Damascena.
This rose was brought from Syria to Europe at the time of the Crusades. The trueYork and Lancasteris the best example of the old Damask rose, and grows into a vigorous bush when well established.Madame Hardy, a cross with theCabbage rose, is an excellent pure white variety; and in the last few years some new and admirable Damask roses,Lady Curzon,Lady Sarah Wilson,Lady White, and theSingle Crimson Damask, have been raised by Mr. Turner; while Mr. Orpen, of Colchester, introduced the beautiful pink climber,Mrs. O. G. Orpen, in 1906.
Rosa Alba,
the white rose of central Europe, introduced into England about 1597, is now too often only to be seen in cottagers' gardens. But surely a corner may be found for theMaiden's Blush, for the fine oldBlanche Belgique, or forCelestial—the roses that used to be seen in our childhood with a sprig of Southernwood in every village boy's buttonhole on Sunday.
Austrian Briar. AUSTRIAN COPPER.Austrian Briar.AUSTRIAN COPPER.
Austrian Briar.AUSTRIAN COPPER.
Austrian Briar Roses,R. lutea.
These are among the most brilliant of our early summer roses, and are distinguished also by their singular and aromatic scent. But their flowering season is as short as it is vivid.
The single Austrian Briars, mentioned by John Gerard in 1596, both the Yellow, and the Copper known in France asCapucine, should be found, if possible, in every garden. But both are of moderate growth; and the Copper is often troublesome to grow, showing itself as capricious as it is attractive. For instance, I have tried in vain for eight years to make it flourish in my garden, while in a cottage garden by the roadside a quarter of a mile away it flowers so profusely that during its short-lived season of beauty the passers-by stop to gaze at its brilliant single blossoms of satiny-yellow lined with vivid copper red.
The double yellowHarrisoniiwas raised in America in 1830; and in 1837 Willock introduced the beautiful and fragrantPersian Yellow, which grows so freely wherever it is planted.
All these Austrian briars have been utilized of late by the hybridists with most interesting results. In 1900 the famous house of Pernet-Ducher, of Lyons, succeeded in developing a new race of roses, which they namedRosa Pernetiana, by crossing thePersian YellowwithAntoine Ducher, a hybrid perpetual. The first of these wasSoleil d'Or, a large,full, flat flower, varying from gold and orange yellow to reddish gold shaded with nasturtium red. It is perfectly hardy, and perpetual flowering. And in 1907 they added a further seedling, far more amazing in colour, named theLyon Rose—offspring of a cross between an unnamed seedling ofSoleil d'Orand the hybrid TeaMme. Mélanie Soupert. This, judging by the reports of those who have seen it, is destined to be a most valuable addition to our gardens.
Another Pernetiana,Les Rosati, has been raised by Gravereaux, from a cross betweenPersian Yellowand a hybrid Tea. It is hardy, prolific, and when I saw it at the end of September, 1907, in MM. Soupert et Notting's ground, it was covered with brilliant cherry-red flowers on a yellow base—the outside of the petals pale salmon.Godfried Keller, a cross withAustrian Copper, apricot with the outside of the petals dark yellow, semi-double and perpetual, andParkfeuer, a shining scarlet hybrid briar, are both of the same type.
Lord Penzance's Hybrid Sweet Briars,R. rubiginosa hybrida.
These invaluable roses, the result of years of careful hybridizing of the common Sweet Briar,R. rubiginosa, with various old-fashioned roses, are amongst the greatest gifts of last century to the rosarian, the amateur, and the cottager.
Lord Penzance Hybrid Sweet Briar. JEANNIE DEANS.Lord Penzance Hybrid Sweet Briar.JEANNIE DEANS.
Lord Penzance Hybrid Sweet Briar.JEANNIE DEANS.
Lady Penzance, one of the most attractive, though less hardy and vigorous than others, resulted from a cross with theAustrian Copper;Lord Penzancefrom the Austrian Yellow. This last is extraordinarily fragrant, the scent of the leaves after rain filling the air to a considerable distance. The rather small flowers of both these show their parentage very clearly in colour. But for size of blossom and effect, none of the fourteen varieties equal the bright pink and whiteFlora McIvor, the crimsonMeg Merrilies, and the superb dark crimsonAnne of Geirstein. This last is a plant of extraordinary vigour, forming in a few years huge bushes ten feet high and nearly as many through. For a high rose hedge or screen these hybrid sweet briars are invaluable, while they may be also used for pillars and arches. And, with the exception ofLordandLady Penzance, which are of more moderate growth, they are easy to propagate, growing readily from cuttings, which, if put in early in the autumn are in flower the next summer. The foliage of the common Sweet Briar, however, remains the most fragrant of all, with a clean, wholesome sweetness that is unsurpassed by its more showy children, always exceptingLord Penzance, which, if possible, excels it. Therefore let no one discard the old friend, and let them plant it beside a walk, so that they may give it a friendly pinch as they pass, to be rewarded by its delicious scent.
Scots Briar. STANWELL PERPETUAL.Scots Briar.STANWELL PERPETUAL.
Scots Briar.STANWELL PERPETUAL.
Scots Briar. STANWELL PERPETUAL.Scots Briar.STANWELL PERPETUAL.
Scots Briar.STANWELL PERPETUAL.
The Scotch Briar,R. spinossima,
is a most fragrant little rose, its compact bushes forming an excellent hedge round a rose garden, covered so closely with the sweet little double, globular flowers that the tiny leaves are almost hidden by the mass of blossom. They can be had in yellow, white, or many shades of pink. But none are prettier than the common rose-pink. The yellow is a hybrid—raised in France early in the nineteenth century.
TheStanwell Perpetualis a Scotch briar, hybridized most probably with the Damask Perpetual or some such rose, flesh-coloured and flowering from May till the autumn.
Rosa Rugosa, the Ramanas Rose of Japan,
was introduced into England in 1784. But this fact may, I imagine, be as great a surprise to some of my readers as it was to myself, when I discovered the statement on unimpeachable authority an hour ago. I well remember the first plants of the common pinkish-red variety, which I first saw in 1876. It was then considered something of a novelty; and I recollect how we all began cultivating it in our gardens, and that we were enraptured, as were the blackbirds and thrushes, by its large, handsome bright scarlet fruit in the autumn.
The varieties in cultivation in those days werealbathe single white, introduced in 1784 by Thunberg, avery lovely flower; andrubra, the single pinkish-red (Cels. 1802). The hybridists began work upon these some twenty years ago. Paul and Son brought outAmericain 1895; and the fineAtropurpureain 1900, one of the very best singles, deep glowing crimson with brilliant golden stamens when opening at sunrise, and turning purple later in the day. Double hybrids were also raised, the charming whiteMme. Georges Bruant, 1888;Blanc double de Coubert, 1892;Belle Poitevin, 1895, rose-coloured and very fragrant; and the handsomeRose à parfum de l'Hay, 1904, carmine cerise and deliciously scented.Fimbriata, 1891, semi-double, white tinted blush, the edge of the petals fringed like a dianthus, is perhaps the prettiest of all, and is specially suited for growing as an isolated bush.
Rugosa. CONRAD FERDINAND MEYER.Rugosa.CONRAD FERDINAND MEYER.
Rugosa.CONRAD FERDINAND MEYER.
But of all the hybrids none can be compared to the superbConrad Ferdinand Meyer(Müller, 1900). This last is said to be crossed withGloire de Dijon. It certainly possesses just the same rich fragrance as that invaluable rose, while its beautiful colour, a warm tender pink, its large size and perfect form, its more than vigorous growth, and its persistence in blooming—I have it in flower here from the middle of May till December—render it one of the most valuable additions to the rose garden of the new century.
Besides these there are numbers of other varieties, as the continental growers, such as Bruant, Cochet,Gravereaux, Schwartz, etc., have paid considerable attention to these roses of late years. But the future of this race is bound to be a very important one, and so far we have not in the least realized what its effect may be.
Provence Roses,R. Centifolia.
Cabbage, or Common Provence, 1596. Rosy pink.
Crested.Vibert, 1827. Rosy pink, pale edges.
Unique, or White Provence.Grimwood, 1777. Paper white.
Sulphurea, or the Old Yellow Provence. Golden yellow.
Miniature Provence Roses.
De Meaux, 1814. Rosy lilac.
Spong. Blush pink.
White de Meaux. White.
Moss Roses,R. Centifolia muscosa. (Summer flowering.)
Baron de Wassenaer.V. Verdier, 1854. Light crimson, in clusters.
Common.Holland, 1596. Pale rose.
Comtesse de Murinais.Vibert, 1827. White, large and double.
Crested.Vibert, 1827. Rosy pink, paler edges.
Crimson Globe,Wm. Paul & Son, 1891. Deep crimson.
Celina.Hardy, 1855. Rich crimson, shaded purple.
Gloire des Moussues.Robert, 1852. Rosy blush, large and full.
Laneii.Laffay, 1846. Rosy crimson, tinted purple.
White Bath.Salter, 1810. Paper white, large and beautiful.
Zenobia.Wm. Paul & Son.Fine satin pink.
Perpetual Moss Roses.
Blanche Moreau.Moreau Robert, 1881. Pure white.
James Veitch. Violet shaded.
Mme. Edouard Ory.Robert, 1856. Bright carmine.
Mme. Louis Lévêque.Leveque, 1904. Colour ofCaptain Christy.
Mme. Moreau.Moreau-Robert, 1873. Vermilion red.
Mrs. William Paul.Wm. Paul & Son, 1870. Very bright rose.
Perpetual White Moss. Blooming in clusters.
Salet.Lacharme, 1854. Bright rose, blush edges, fine.
Venus.Welter, 1905. Fiery red, one of the best.
The French Rose, also called "Rose de Provins,"R. Gallica.
Belle des Jardins.Guillot, 1873. Bright purple, striped white.
Dométile Becard. Flesh, striped rose.
Œillet Parfait. Pure white, broad stripes, rosy crimson.
Perle des Panachées.Vibert, 1845. White, striped lilac.
Rosa Mundi. Red, striped white.
Old Red, the "Apothecary's Rose," often called "Red Damask."
Tuscany. Deep claret red.
Village Maid. White, striped rose or purple.
The Damask Rose,R. Damascena.
Kazanlik. Silver rose.
La Ville de Bruxelles. Light rose, blush margin.
Lady Curzon.Turner, 1902. Large, single pink.
Lady Sarah Wilson.Turner, 1902. Semi-double, creamy blush.
Lady White.Turner, 1902. Semi-double, white tinted pink.
Leda, or painted Damask. Blush, edged lake.
Madame Hardy.Hardy, 1832. White.
Madame Zoetmans. Creamy white.
Mrs. O. G. Orpen.Orpen, 1906. Climbing, large single, in trusses, rosy pink.
Single Crimson Damask.Turner, 1901.
York and Lancaster (true). Red and white, in patches.
The White Rose,R. Alba.
Blanche Belgique. White.
Celestial. Flesh colour, tinted delicate pink.
Felicité. Rosy flesh, margin blush.
Mme. Audot. Glossy flesh.
Mme. Legras. Creamy white.
Maiden's Blush.Kew, 1797. Soft blush.
Austrian Briar Roses,R. lutea.
Austrian Copper, or Capucine.J. Gerard, 1596. Single, petals lined copper-red.
Austrian Yellow.J. Gerard, 1596.
Harrisonii.Harrison, 1830. Golden yellow.
Persian Yellow.Willock, 1838. Deep golden yellow.
Hybrids.
Gottfried Keller.Dr. Müller, 1902. Semi-double, apricot with golden yellow centre.
Parkfeuer. Single, vivid scarlet.
Soleil d'Or.Pernet-Ducher, 1900. Orange yellow, gold and nasturtium red, large, double.
The Lyon Rose.Pernet-Ducher, 1907. Coral-red tinted chrome yellow, new and distinct, double.
Les Rosati.Gravereaux, 1907. Bright carmine, yellow base.
These three last are perpetual-flowering, and known as Pernetiana roses.
Sweet Briars,R. rubiginosa.
Common Sweet briar. Pale pink.
Double Scarlet. Bright rosy red.
Hebe's Lip. White, with picotee edge of purple.
Janet's Pride. White, shaded and tipped with crimson.
Lord Penzance's Hybrids, 1894, 1895.
Amy Robsart. Deep rose.
Anne of Geirstein. Deep crimson rose.
Catherine Seyton. Rosy-pink, bright golden anthers.
Flora McIvor. Blush rose, white centre.
Lady Penzance. Soft copper, base of petals bright yellow.
Lord Penzance. Fawn, passing to emerald yellow.
Lucy Bertram. Rich crimson, pure white centre.
Meg Merrilies. Deep brilliant crimson.
Scotch Briar Roses,R. spinossima.Shades of pink, rose, crimson, white, yellow.
Pimpinellifolia. Blush.
Stanwell Perpetual. Semi-double rosy blush.
Rugosa or Ramanas Roses,R. rugosa.
America.Paul & Son, 1895. Crimson lake.
Atropurpurea.Paul & Son, 1899. Deep crimson, turning maroon.
Belle Poitevin.Bruant, 1896. Rose, double, very sweet.
[A]Blanc double de Coubert.Cochet-Cochet, 1894. Double white.
Calocarpa.Bruant, 1896. Rose, single, fine tinted autumn foliage.
[A]Conrad F. Meyer.Froebel, 1900. Clear silvery rose, double, large, very fragrant.
[A]Delicata.Cooling, 1898. Soft rose, double.
Madame C. F. Worth.Schwartz, 1890.Rosycarmine, semi-double.
[A]Madame Georges Bruant.Bruant, 1888. Clear white, nearly double.
Madame Henri Gravereaux.Gravereaux, 1905. White, salmon centre.
Mrs. Anthony Waterer.Waterer, 1898. Deep crimson, semi-double, large clusters.
[A]Nova Zembla.Mees, 1907. White sport fromConrad Meyer, fine.
Repens Alba.Paul & Son, 1903. Weeping form of Alba.
[A]Rose à parfum de l'Hay.Gravereaux, 1904. Carmine cerise, double, fine.
Rugosa alba.Thunberg, 1784. Single, pure white.
Rugosa rubra.Cels, 1802. Pinkish red.
Rugosa rubra, fl. pl.Regel.Purple red.
[A]Rose Apples.Paul & Son, 1896. Pale carmine rose, large clusters.