Department of Santa Ana.

MunicipalMunicipal Palace at Sonsonate, Department of Sonsonate.

Municipal Palace at Sonsonate, Department of Sonsonate.

As a Department, Ahuachapán was "created" in 1869, having formerly been considered as parts of the Departments of Santa Ana and Sonsonate. It possesses the unmatched Valley of Chalchuapa, which for extreme fertility and magnificent climate will comparewith any similar country in Latin-America. Agriculture in all of its different aspects is carried on, and prosperity uninterrupted dwells in this small earthly paradise. Coffee, sugar, tobacco, cotton, cereals, fine fruits and vegetables, grow here practically without any attention; while an active commerce is carried on, through the port of Acajutla, with other ports of the Republic, to which it sends large consignments of cereals and sugar. It likewise imports woollen goods and mercury from Guatemala, and cattle and mules from Honduras. Altogether, a thriving trade and a valuable natural production are carried on during all the year in this prosperous Department.

Ahuachapán Town has always possessed, and must always retain, some value as a commercial centre, since it is the starting-place for the export of coffee to the coast, the route having formerly been over very precipitous and wretched trails, which, however, have latterly been much improved. One of the fords over the Rio Paz, known as Los Organos, on the trail from thealdeaof Cofradias, in Guatemala, leads by a very beautiful route to the town of Ahuachapán. It has a population of between 11,000 and 12,000 inhabitants, the Department which bears the same name having a complement of some 37,000 people. There is a good cart-road leading to Sonsonate via Otaco and Apaneca, which are two mountain towns.

Being situated at an agreeable altitude above sea-level—2,620 feet, which is some 500 feet higher than Santa Ana—the town is more open to the winds, so that the air is generally fresh and cool, especially at nights. Ahuachapán overlooks the valleys of the Rivers Paz and Chalchuapa, while beyond them are seen the many peaks of the Guatemalian mountains,as well as the outstanding volcano of San Salvador. There are but few foreigners in this town, but the courtesy and friendliness of the people render a stay there more than usually pleasant. The people as a whole seemed to me to be very well-to-do, and evidences of refinement and solid comfort were to be met with upon all sides. This prosperity emanated, I was informed, from the many rich and productivefincasin the neighbourhood, which are engaged in growing coffee. The majority of thesefincasseem to belong to quite small and humble proprietors. I was also impressed with the absence of the usual number ofestancos, or public drinking shops, of which I counted scarcely more than six in the whole town.

There is a good social club here, which is "teetotal," and there are the usual number of churches, one of them being an extremely handsome edifice. The Government buildings and the residence of the Governor are sufficiently imposing; the streets are both well paved and well drained. The majority of the houses are built ofadobe, but some are of brick, and one or two are of stone, or at least they are stone-faced. Most of the better-class residences, however, are stuccoed with either brown, white, or coloured plaster on the side which faces the street. There seemed to be an abundant supply of good water available, free baths being provided and also apparently well patronized. I had noticed the same thing in Cojutepeque and other Salvadorean towns, proving that the inhabitants pay strict regard to cleanliness. The Ahuachapán public baths have a continuous supply of warm water, which is received from the neighbouring hot springs.

An efficient police force keeps the town in perfectorder; but there are still lacking a good hotel, a livery stable, and a theatre. The latter is not essential, but it is a luxury which is usually found in Central and South American towns which cannot even boast of a single drainpipe. The same thing was noticeable in Johannesburg, South Africa, some twenty years after the town had the electric light and the telephone. The town of Ahuachapán is a quiet, sleepy, and eminently peaceful place of residence, where one might dream away one's life contentedly enough if one were prepared to do without driving, without amusements, and without either dentists, doctors, or daily papers.

There was once some talk of bringing the railway line through Ahuachapán from Montufar (Guatemala) to Sonsonate; but the construction, although perfectly practicable, would be so heavy and so costly that I am doubtful whether the peaceful solitude of this district—for some time at least—will be broken by the shrill scream of the locomotive whistle.

Cities.—Santa Ana, Chalchuapa, Metapán (3).

Towns.—Texistepeque, Coatepeque (2).

The boundaries of this Department bring it into immediate contact with Honduras and Guatemala on the north, while on the east are the Departments of La Libertad and Chalatenango. Sonsonate is on the south, and Guatemala and the Department of Ahuachapán are on the west.

Two extensive ranges of mountains cover this territory, one on the north, and the other from east to west, two imposing mountains, Santa Ana and Mala Cara, both of which are active, rearing their shapelyheads in this Department. In addition there are three extinct volcanoes—Masatepeque, San Diego, and La Isla. Where there are no mountains, magnificent valleys—fertile from end to end—stretch away for many leagues, watered by two rivers, one of which is the Malino, and the other the Lempa, which latter, with its many affluents, curves through this favoured country. As a Department, Santa Ana came into existence in February, 1855, having previously formed first a part of the ancient province of Sonsonate, and after that comprising the two districts of Ahuachapán and Atiquizaya.

The chief city, which bears the same name, is the largest—outside San Salvador—in the Republic, and, indeed, is ranked as one of the most important in Central America. The location is a pleasant one, being on the west side of the valley of the Malino. The elevation is about 2,100 feet above sea-level, and softly undulating green hills almost entirely surround it. The city is well laid out and solidly built, with many notable structures, while the streets are lighted by electricity and are well paved. Owing, however, to the steepness of some of the thoroughfares, this city being also constructed upon the sloping side of the valley, torrents of water come tumbling down in rainy weather, converting the crossings for the time being into miniature cataracts. On the other hand, the natural drainage is excellent, and as a consequence Santa Ana ranks as one of the cleanest and most healthful towns in the country. This is all the more notable because the Municipality at the time that I visited the place had not completed the drainage system, which I understood was then about to be introduced, while the public water-supply was not yetperfect. I noticed several public bathing-places which were completely open to the air; these were not, however, provided with hot water.

The number of prosperous-looking business houses and handsome private residences in Santa Ana at once arrest the attention of a visitor, as does the general air of prosperity which reigns throughout the place. The commercial and financial houses do about as much business in this town in a day as they carry through in all the other parts of the Republic—the capital excepted—in a week. The market-house, a building of considerable magnitude, is usually very well attended, and almost any kind of fruit and vegetable can be purchased there.

Santa Ana contains, perhaps, a greater proportion of resident foreigners than any other town or city in Salvador. It is partly due to this that so much commerce is carried on. The town is but fifty miles distant from the Capital, and it is easily reached by the Salvador Railway, which naturally carries considerable traffic both to and from the town. From Santa Ana there is a first-rate cart-road conducting north to Metapán, and another leading south to Sonsonate and to the port of Acajutla.

The temperature, as a rule, in this city renders life very pleasant. During the rainy months of August, September, and October it varies between 67° and 69° F., the maximum being between 72° and 78° F.

Department of La Paz—Characteristics—Zacatecoluca—Population—Former proportions—Districts—Towns—Principal estates—Santiago Nonualco—San Juan Nonualco—Climate—Water-supply—Santa Maria Astuma—Mercedes la Ceiba—San Pedro Mazahuat—Some minor estates—Small property holdings.

City.—Zacatecoluca.

Towns.—Santiago Nonualco, San Pedro Mazahuat, San Pedro Nonualco, Olocuilta (4).

The Department of La Paz belongs to the group of central and coast (or maritime) Departments. It has a decidedly quadrangular form, and is bounded on the east by the Department of San Vicente; on the north by the same with that of Cuscatlán and of San Salvador; on the west by the Department of San Salvador and by that of La Libertad; and on the south by the Pacific.

It lies between the parallels 13° 40" and 13° 18" N. latitude, and between the meridians 91° 4" and 91° 31" W. longitude, relatively to the meridian of Paris. The most northerly point is a small peninsula of the Lake of Ilopango, on the coast of the Tepezontes, and the most southerly is on the Pacific coast, at the watering-place called Los Blancos y los Negros. The most easterly point is at the River of San Jerónimo, to the north of the highroadwhich runs from Zacatecoluca to Usulután, and the most westerly is at the mouth of the River Lindero. The area of this Department is 2,354 square kilometres, or, say, about69⁄1000of the area of Salvador.

The surface is fairly level towards the coast, and hilly towards the interior, but it is always accessible for transit. The low-lying land is found to be excellent for the cultivation of the sugar-cane, tobacco, cotton, indigo, and forage; while the high land is eminently suited for the cultivation of coffee, wheat, rice, etc. The forests of the Department enjoy a high reputation for the excellence of the timber which they produce.

The population of the Department of La Paz has increased with astonishing rapidity. In 1858 it possessed scarcely 24,000 inhabitants, while to-day it is almost three times as large, which is equal to an increase of 3 per cent, annually. The density of the population is thirty-one inhabitants per square kilometre, and the number of individuals of native race is nearly equal to that of the Spanish-speaking inhabitants.

Previous to the Independence, the greater part of the present Department of La Paz belonged to the Department of San Vicente. Towards 1835 the Governor of this State ceded the district of Zacatecoluca to the Central Government, so that it might form part of the special territory of that authority, a cession which not unnaturally displeased the inhabitants of the district. On the disunion, the Federation was established, and joined-up with that of Olocuilta the new Department of La Paz. In the year 1843, in direct consequence of the revolt of the Indians of Santiago Nonualco, and under pretext of a defect inthe government, the new Department was suppressed and reincorporated in that of San Vicente. In 1845 it again separated; but in the following year, 1846, it was joined once more to that of San Vicente, remaining thus until, by the Legislative Decree of February 21, 1852, it was definitely separated.

At present the Department of La Paz is divided into three districts, which comprehend one city, four large towns, and about fifteen smaller ones, as shown by the following table:

District of Zacatecoluca: Santiago Nonualco, San Pedro Nonualco, San Juan Nonualco, Santa María Ostuma, San Rafael, La Ceiba, Jerusalén.District of San Pedro Mazahuat: San Pedro Mazahuat, El Rosario, San Miguel Tepezontes, San Juan Tepezontes, Paraíso de Osorio, San Emigdio.District of Olocuilta: Talpa, Cuyultitán, San Luis, Tapalhuaca, San Francisco Chinameca.

District of Zacatecoluca: Santiago Nonualco, San Pedro Nonualco, San Juan Nonualco, Santa María Ostuma, San Rafael, La Ceiba, Jerusalén.

District of San Pedro Mazahuat: San Pedro Mazahuat, El Rosario, San Miguel Tepezontes, San Juan Tepezontes, Paraíso de Osorio, San Emigdio.

District of Olocuilta: Talpa, Cuyultitán, San Luis, Tapalhuaca, San Francisco Chinameca.

In the lowlands or near the coast there are a number of old estates of unquestionable merit, and which in former times were famous for the indigo which they produced. To-day the principal agricultural industry of Zacatecoluca is coffee-growing, and the inhabitants possess upon the Volcán some magnificent plantations, the principal being the following, with the number of hundredweights of produce that they yield annually:

Those of Señor J. Rengifo Núñez, 3,500 cwts.; Señor José Molina, 2,000; Señora Doña Amalia Molina, 2,000; Señora Doña Teresa O. de Alfaro, 1,000; Dr. Don Fernando Gómez, 1,500; Don Mariano A. Molina, 1,000; Don Fernando Gómez, 1,500; Dr. Peña Fernández, 1,500; Don Pedro Rodríguez, 800; Doña Josefa Buiza, 600; Don Atanasio Pineda, 500; the Señorita Dolores Rodríguez, 500; Doña Teresa de Rodríguez, 500; Don Atanasio Pineda, 500; Don Atanasio Pineda (h), 500; the Lopez family, 500; Dr. Don Pío Romero Bosque, 500; Doña Josefa Molina, 600; Doña Mercedes Rubio, 400; Don Francisco Orantes, 300; Don Lisandro Torres, 300; the issue of Don Samuel Jiménez, 300; Doña Mercedes Rodríguez, 300; Don Octavio Miranda, 200; Don Catarino Ortiz, 200; Doña Elodia Jandres, 200; Don Justo Quintanilla, 200; General Don José María Estupinián, 300.

The town of Santiago Nonualco, which has the title of "Villa," a name usually given to a large and important town, is also an ancient one. It is situated on high land, on the brow of a hill, 10 kilometres to the west of Zacatecoluca—the said highland measuring from north to south some 36 kilometres, and from east to west about 7. It is situated on a large tract of level ground, upon which, towards the north, are two hills—La Chorrera and El Tacuazín; in the former is situated the cave in which the celebrated Indian, Aquino, took refuge.

Numbers of excellent stock and grain farms exist here, upon which are cultivated large quantities of cereals, and which formerly produced a remarkable quantity of very good indigo. Such are El Pedregal, La Vandería, Tegüistocoyo, Novillos, Ojo, Troncones, and Santa Teresa. A very ancient town also is San Juan Nonualco, situated to the west, 4 kilometres from Zacatecoluca, and about 100 metres above the level of the sea. The highroad leading from Zacatecoluca to the Capital of the Republic passes by here, and at San Juan it throws off a branch which runs directly to the port of La Libertad.

Among its best-known coffee plantations are—Las Nubes, San Pedro, El Consuelo, and Las Granadillas. There is also carried on a great deal of timber-felling, and there are some sawmills erected among the hills of Pilon and Caballito. In this district there are no natural springs of water, which element has been supplied by sinking wells near the pool of La Laguneta, formed at the time of the rains.

San Rafael is a town which was founded in the year 1882 on lands which were the property of the Obrajuelos, the portion belonging to the town beingmarked off by boundaries and landmarks. The only hill worthy of mention in the district of San Rafael is that of the Carao.

The little town of San Pedro Nonualco is situated in the hollow of a hill and upon the slopes of a small volcano, 20 kilometres to the north of Zacatecoluca. It enjoys a mild and salubrious climate, especially in the dry season; whilst during the rainy season there is sufficient humidity for agricultural purposes. The principal sources are—El Pringadero, El Pataiste, El Hiscanal, El Chinte, La Gotera (which last is that from which is drawn the water used by the town), La Montañita, Los Naranjos, and a number of other small streams which supply the country with an abundance of water.

Santa María Ostuma is a town situated on the slope of a hill which springs from the loins of the volcano of San Vicente on the north-west, and is 24 kilometres from Zacatecoluca. Its situation is very picturesque, the town being surrounded by beautiful perspectives, while its climate is fresh and healthy. It is divided into four districts—Delicias, Candelaria, Mercedes and Calvario. The principal annual festival is that of the patron saint, on February 2, the day of the Presentation, or Candlemas. The place has to-day about 3,400 inhabitants, and its prominent source of revenue is derived from agriculture, principally coffee and the pineapple, the pineapples produced in Ostuma being considered the best in the Republic. These are of the most choice types—the Castilian, water and sugar pineapples.

The town, or rather village, of Mercedes La Ceiba is bounded on the west by that of Jerusalén, the middle course of the River Chilate, and on the remainingsides by the district of Santa Maria Ostuma. It has not more than 650 inhabitants.

Jerusalén is another small place of recent foundation, situated about 25 kilometres from the chief town. Its lands are fertile, and largely intersected by streams of some importance. San Pedro Mazahuat is one of the large towns of the Department, and is the capital of the district. In the course of a few years it has attained a state of progress quite remarkable, due alike to the industrious character of its inhabitants and the fertility of its lands. It is situated upon rather broken ground, having on the east the River Tilapa, on the west the Sepaquiapa, and on the south the Jiboa, all of which contribute an abundant supply of fish. There are also several springs of fresh water, such as Apacinto, La Pina, and Amatitán. Two kilometres to the north of the town is the spring of Plata, where a dam has been constructed and whence water is conveyed to the town.

There are several notable estates, such as those of San Antonio, El Pimental, San José and Mira-Flores, upon which are cultivated various cereals, and a serious attempt at cattle-breeding is carried on. This last-named estate, which was widely known under the name of Rancho de Teja, was formerly, with that of Chanrayo, one of the most flourishing, and engaged largely in the cultivation of indigo. It is the place which was at one time known as Hacienda Nueva (the New Estate), and for the last fifty years it has been in the possession of the family of Aycinena, of Guatemala, as is also that of San Josécito. The lands of both these properties have to-day been converted into a number of small plantations.

Department of San Miguel—Portless coast—Indigo plantations—City of San Miguel—Cathedral—Water-supply—Archæological interests—Projected railway connections. Department of Morazán—City of Gotera—Mountains and fertile plains—Agricultural produce. Department of Usulután—Physical characteristics—Volcanic curiosities—Surrounding villages—Populations—El Triunfo—Santiago de Maria. Department of La Unión—Boundaries—Scenery—Guascorán River—Industries—Commerce.

Cities.—San Miguel and Chinameca (2).

Towns.—Uluazapa, Moncagua, Chapeltique, Cacaguatique, Sesorí (5).

One of the most diversified of the Departments of the Republic is San Miguel, since it offers almost every kind of scenery to be found in Central America: wild and rugged coastline, steep and craggy mountains, beautiful verdant valleys and at least one active volcano—active, that is to say, in emitting much smoke and more noise, but otherwise, for the time being, unobjectionable. The Department is bounded on the north by the Republic of Honduras and the Department of Morazán, on the east by the latter and the Department of La Unión, on the south by the Pacific Ocean, and on the west by the Departments of Usulután and Cabañas.

StatelyThe "stately" offices of His Britannic Majesty's Vice-Consul at La Unión, one of the principal ports in Salvador.

The "stately" offices of His Britannic Majesty's Vice-Consul at La Unión, one of the principal ports in Salvador.

TeclaBarracks at Santa Tecla (New San Salvador).

Barracks at Santa Tecla (New San Salvador).

There is no port in this section of the Republic, and the whole coastline is considered dangerous, and certainlylooks inhospitable, being formed of numerous spurs running down into the sea from the mountains which guard it for practically all of its length. There are two volcanoes located here, one of which, Chinameca, is, and for years past has been, quiescent; the other is the ever-grumbling San Miguel.

In the peaceful valleys below are grown indigo, coffee, and sugar; timber is cut for building purposes; grains and any amount of fruits and vegetables are cultivated. There are likewise several important manufactures, such as saddlery and harness, boots and shoes, articles of tortoiseshells, pickles, lime-juice, cheese, and rum. The annual fair is held on November 21, in the city of San Miguel, and on this occasion the amount of business transacted runs into many thousands of dollars. The visitors include those from some of the neighbouring Republics, besides the people from all parts of Salvador.

An old and a remarkably interesting city is that of San Miguel, which was founded in 1530. Perhaps its early days were more prosperous than those which are at present enjoyed; for history shows that here, in times long passed away, great trade and industry were carried on, and much activity of commercial life prevailed. To-day a kind of peaceful stagnation would appear to reign for the greater part of the year, but still the people seem to be quite contented and fairly well-to-do.

The great wealth of the place formerly reposed in the indigo trade which was carried on, and which the invention of aniline dyes greatly helped to kill. One can easily trace where and how the superabundant wealth of the community was spent. It is to be seen in the magnificently wide thoroughfares, the well-pavedstreets, and the many yet handsomeplazasand public buildings. It is possible still to pause and admire the proportions and the decorations of the Municipal Palace, of the Court House, the Hospital and the Market; while many are the imposing churches to be seen, those of San Francisco, Calvario and Santo Domingo among them.

For some years a massive brick-built Cathedral has been in course of erection; but it is still incomplete. The water-supply, which is abundant, is taken from the San Miguel River. I have been told that this water was not safe to drink; but I venture to assert that the statement is incorrect, provided the liquid be taken from that portion of the river which is not immediately adjoining the town and certain residences.

That the town otherwise is up-to-date may be gauged from the fact that it possesses both an ice-plant and an electric light installation. I am afraid, however, that neither are particularly well patronized by the majority of the people, who are very simple and unpretentious in their method of living, as in their dress.

Around the city of San Miguel are located well-maintainedfincas, nearly all of which belong to native proprietors. Indigo and cacao are the most common products raised, and both thrive here amazingly well.

Antiquaries and archæologists will find an extremely interesting field for their investigations around San Miguel, where exist numerous remains of a primitive and an industrious people. Already many examples of their domestic utensils have been found and methods of living have been traced; and at a private house belonging to an enthusiastic but discriminating collector of such articles may be seen flint knives, grinding-mills of hard stone more durable even thangranite, andollasof clay, presenting many interesting features of workmanship, far superior, indeed, to anything of the kind which is met with to-day. It is supposed that the ancient city of Chaparrastique was located in this neighbourhood, not more than a mile or so from the present site of San Miguel.

The city of San Miguel lies some three-quarters of a mile from the volcano and the river of the same name, the latter also being called sometimes the Rio Grande. It stands but some 360 feet above the level of the sea, and the climate is undoubtedly hot—sometimes unpleasantly so. San Miguel is about 107 miles east of the Capital, and is approached by a good cart-road. It claims some 23,000 inhabitants, most of whom are engaged in agriculture of some kind, while they form an orderly community very little given to troubling the authorities, yet somewhat opposed to innovations or reforms of any kind. The native women of San Miguel are considered to be about the best-looking in the Republic.

The Government have, as related elsewhere, long had the desire to unite San Miguel, which claims with Santa Ana to be the "second" most important city in the Republic (it certainly is justified from a population point of view) with La Unión, its finest seaport, and to extend the line to the cities of San Vicente and San Salvador, thus securing an all-rail route from Acajutla, the most important western port, to La Unión in the extreme east, on the Gulf of Fonseca.[6]

It was sufficiently proved by Mr. Charles T. Spencer (now the Manager of the Salvador Railway Company) that such a line of railway was quite feasible from an engineering point of view, and that it could be constructed at a reasonable outlay. The kilometric distance from San Miguel to San Vicente would be (main-line) 102·2 (= 63·5 miles).

City.—Gotera.

Towns.—Sociedad, San Carlos, Jocoro, Osicala, El Rosario (5).

This is one of the most recently created of the various Departments, having come into official existence in 1875. Formerly much of its territory was comprised in San Miguel. Even its name has been altered, since until 1887 it was known as "Gotera," which is now the title of its one city. In this year the name was altered to Morazán by decree of Congress, in memory of the last President of the Central American Federation, and who lost his life in his well-meant but fruitless efforts to bring about its resuscitation.

The Department is bounded on the north by the Republic of Honduras, on the east by the Department of La Unión, on the south by La Unión and San Miguel, and on the west by the latter also. Lofty mountains cover a great deal of the surface, more especially towards the north, the various chains crossing the Department from east to west. Towards the Honduranean border—that is to say, in the direction of the south—a number of fertile plains are to be met with, and these are mostly well watered by the Rivers Tocola and Rio Grande. All kinds of agriculturalproducts are cultivated here, such as indigo, rice, coffee, sugar, corn, and a variety of fruits. It is also an industrial centre, there being established cordage, mat, hat, lime, and earthenware factories, the greater part of which, at least, seem to carry on a thriving trade. Labour is abundant, if not particularly well skilled; and the greater portion of the inhabitants are industriously occupied all the year round in following either agriculture or some kind of manufacturing.

Although a decidedly small place, containing something less than 2,000 people, Gotera is picturesque, and as clean as it is romantic in appearance. It is connected by a good cart-road with the city of San Miguel. There is likewise a volcano of moderate proportions, raising its crest 3,089 feet in height, and being located 13° 42' 54" latitude, and 88° 0' 30" longitude. Its history is not especially remarkable.

Cities.—La Unión, San Alejo, Santa Rosa (3).

It was to form this Department that San Miguel had once again to give up a goodly portion of its original territory. It is now one of the most important of the Republic's various political Divisions, by reason of containing the port of La Unión, of which I give a fuller description elsewhere under the title of "Ports and Harbours" (see Chapter XIV.). Its boundaries are as follows: North, by the Republic of Honduras; east, by that Republic also and the Bay of Fonseca; south, by the Pacific Ocean; and west, by the Departments of San Miguel and Morazán. A great diversity of scenery may be met with, the mountains alternating with valleys, volcanoes with large open plains, and the ocean lending a bluesetting to the whole picture. For true tropical scenery the Bay of Fonseca would be hard to beat, and its most beautiful portion skirts the shore of this Department. Unfortunately, however, there is usually a great deal of unhealthy miasma arising from the low, marshy shore, and from the mouth of the Guascorán River to the Honduranean boundary the whole district may be said to be unhealthy. Here and again one comes across dry and rugged spots, but for the most part the country lies very low, and it is extremely hot at almost all times of the year.

Located upon the picturesque peninsula which separates the Bay of Fonseca from the Pacific Ocean is the enormous volcano of Conchagua, towering up to a height of over 4,000 feet above sea-level, and measuring some twenty miles in circumference around its base. There are two magnificent peaks, one measuring 3,800 feet, and the other 4,101 feet. The situation is 13° 16' 28" latitude, and 87° 51' 46" longitude. This mountain was last in eruption in the year 1868, but to all appearances it is now perfectly quiescent.

Both industrially and commercially La Unión is of importance, much of the fine timber employed in various parts of the Republic for both building operations and cabinet-making coming from its forests, which nevertheless as yet have hardly been touched. Great potential wealth is contained here, and, in view of the proximity of the port, its forests should one day be intelligently and profitably exploited.

As to manufactures, the Department possesses lime, hat (palm-leaf variety), mat, soap, candle, steel, and other establishments; while considerable trade goes on in fish, and especially in oyster-curing. La Uniónoysters are very delicious, and are much relished as a rule by foreigners, who declare them to be equal to the best Whitstable in flavour. The variety of fish caught off these coasts is not particularly large, but the quality is very fine. The cost of living in this Department, even at the port of La Unión, is cheap, and on the whole one may dwell there very comfortably, if climatic conditions be accepted philosophically.

Cities.—Usulután, Jucuapa, Alegría (3).

Towns.—Santa Elena, Jiquilisco (2).

This Department belongs to the eastern section of the Republic, and formerly its territory was embraced in the Department—or, as it was then called, the Province—of San Miguel (ó Provincia) de Chaparrastique, now known simply as "San Miguel." It became a separate Department in 1865. It is bounded on the north and east by the Department of San Miguel, on the south by the Pacific Ocean, and on the west by the Department of San Vicente. Its area is 3,344 square kilometres which represents a98⁄1000part of the superficial area of the Republic.

The central portion of the Department is very mountainous, the country here being crossed by a lofty range, north of which it is relatively level, but decidedly broken-up. In the south are found lowlands and a swampy coast, which during the rainy season becomes somewhat unhealthy. Within the borders of this Department are found three separate volcanoes—Usulután, Jucuapa and Taburete. From a geological point of view the two last named are the most interesting, having small lakes of sulphurous water in their ancient craters. Roundabout, and especially in a deepand dry ravine which extends from the south-east of the village of Tecapa towards the River Lempa, are a number of active geysers which emit dense volumes of sulphurous vapours and columns of smoke, reminding one forcibly of some of the beautiful geysers in New Zealand, in the Roturua district.

The largest of the geysers at Tecapa is called "El Tronador" (The Thunderer), and this has formed a small crater of its own, from out of which is thrown a high and thick column of steam saturated with sulphuretted hydrogen and other gases, while the noise which accompanies the emission of this steam is deafening, and can be heard for many miles away.

The Department is divided up into three districts—namely, Usulután, which contains seven villages or small towns; Jucuapa, containing four; and Santiago de Maria, containing seven. The first-named district has a population of some 12,000 inhabitants, more than half of whom reside in the city of Usulután, a pleasant place enough, situated upon the right bank of a stream called Juano, but only at the moderate elevation of 420 feet above sea-level. It is also some ninety-five miles distant from the Capital. The number of buildings of an ornate character is considerable, for Usulután was formerly a place of some pretensions, being the residential quarters of the authorities of the ancient Division of San Miguel ó Provincia de Chaparrastique. It was classed as a "town" in 1827, and was given the rank of a "city" in 1860. Among the more notable buildings are a handsome town-hall, a school-house, and a minor University, where the higher education is imparted to a large number of pupils and students. A prison of some dimensions, and a handsome but small church, should also be mentioned.

GroupGroup of Salvadoreans of the superior working class.

Group of Salvadoreans of the superior working class.

According to some old Spanish MSS., which I was shown, this town was known to the Indians of 1574 as "Uceluclán," and a large number of people at one time apparently resided there. Another very old place is Santa Eléna, which dates from 1661; to-day it has about 3,275 inhabitants, the surrounding district and many smaller villages bringing up the total of inhabitants for the district to nearly 6,000.

There are over a dozen notablefincasround about, where maize, tobacco, rice and black beans are cultivated. Jiquilisco boasts of between 4,500 and 4,600 inhabitants, and even more importantfincas, so far as size and amount of produce are concerned. Santa Maria de Los Remedios is also an old town, possessing some 1,750 inhabitants. Two importantfincasare located in the neighbourhood, and engage the services of many of the labourers available. Ereguaiquín, which is some 7 kilometres distant, has 2,100 inhabitants; Ozatlán, another small town of very recent origin, being founded as late as 1890, having 2,000 inhabitants.

The district of Jucuapa, with its four towns and villages, is somewhat deficient in water, having only the San Francisco River to depend upon. Nevertheless the country is very fertile, especially in the immediate district around the volcano of Jucuapa, which towers up into the air some 5,000 feet above the level of the sea. The chief town has two schools of importance, a private college for the children of wealthier parents, a casino, a club, and a well-maintained hospital.

Estanzuelas, which was established as a village in 1815, has over 10,000 inhabitants, most of whom are engaged in the pursuit of agriculture. San Buenaventura, another village, stands much higher, and ispossessed of a more pleasant climate and outlook over mountains and valleys. It has but 1,600 inhabitants, and among several distinguished Salvadoreans who have been born in this district is Dr. Máximo Araujo, who has rendered great political services to his country.

The small town known as El Triunfo (also described as "San Juan del Triunfo") is an old-established place, and was formerly known as "La Labor." This is in a well-watered district, and many prosperousfincasare to be found scattered around. A fuller account of the port will be found under Chapter XVI., "Ports and Harbours."

The Santiago de Maria district is moderately well inhabited, but the town of the same name is small, and is little over forty years old. The neighbourhood, which has always been known as fertile, and which is abundantly watered by several rivers and streams, produces large quantities of maize, beans, sugar, tobacco and vegetables.

Other small towns in this Department are San Agustin, Tecapán, Alegría, Berlín and California. The total population of the Department was put in 1909 at 89,175, the district of Usulután having the largest number, estimated at 32,275; Jucuapa came next, with 25,700; and Santiago de Maria third, with 24,600. The remaining 8 per cent. of the population were dispersed throughout the Department.

"In every work regard the writer's End,Since none can compass more than they intend;And if the means be just, the conduct true,Applause, in spite of trivial faults, is due."

I make no claim in this volume to having written anything startlingly new, nor yet to have made any particularly valuable contribution to the history of the world; but what I have endeavoured to effect, and what I trust I have accomplished at least in part, is to put before my readers what I know to be facts concerning a very interesting country which has hitherto received but scant attention at the hands of financial writers. Bulwer Lytton has said that no author ever drew a character, consistent to human nature, but what he was forced to ascribe to it many inconsistencies. So it is with a book which purports to be a true description of a country; for in portraying its attractions one must of a necessity expose its drawbacks and deficiencies.

It must be remembered that the Republic of Salvador has yet to celebrate its centenary, being one of the youngest of the Latin-American States; but considering the different troubles and tribulations which this country—in common with all of the Latin-American Republics without exception—has gone through, the present condition of her civilization, of her arts and her commerce, is eminently encouraging.The great advance made by this State has been achieved in spite of the many obstacles which it has encountered. If the permanency of a Republic mainly depends upon the general intelligence and morality of the people constituting it, I look for a continued and even an increased prosperity for the Salvadoreans, since they are indubitably among the Central American nations the most developed and the most intellectual.

No longer subject to and borne down by an immoral and corrupt Government, and freed from the exactions of hungry office-seekers, this naturally richly-endowed little State should pursue an even and enviable road to prosperity, upon which foreigners will be heartily welcome to journey.

In 1895, when Mr. Joseph Chamberlain was Colonial Secretary, a circular letter was addressed to all British Consuls of the British Empire, asking for information regarding the effect of foreign competition upon British trade abroad. In the answers received, and subsequently published in the form of a bulky Blue Book, some critics professed to see much comfort; but to the minds of others, who looked more deeply into matters and judged more from what was likely to occur than what had actually happened, the future appeared gloomy in the extreme. To enact the role of Cassandra is never an agreeable nor a profitable occupation; but upon occasions it becomes necessary to sound the alarum, if only to awaken the slumberer from his too-long repose, and remind him that the world is marching onwards and ever onwards. At no time has this been more imperative than the present, when British trade and commerce, British influence and British prestige, in Central America, at one timepredominant, are threatened, not alone with supersession, but with practical extinction. This is no phantom of the imagination, nor yet any unfair exaggeration of existing conditions. It is a plain and incontrovertible fact, which anyone travelling through the smaller Latin-American Republics may ascertain for himself.

The decline of British trade in these countries was clearly foreshadowed in the Blue Book above referred to; but the public, with some few exceptions, complacently closed their eyes, the Government as usual did nothing to avert the threatened evil, and the results are such as were inevitable under the circumstances. The Consular reports upon these States as they are issued (whenthey are issued at all) tell the tale of our diminishing trade, and of the slow but sure rise of our competitors to the position of dominance which once was ours. There is little occasion to criticize the figures or to call them into question; it may, perhaps, have served some useful purpose to have examined, as I have done in these pages, into the principal causes which have helped to bring about a condition of things which is gradually going from bad to worse.

I shall be abundantly satisfied, and consider myself sufficiently recompensed for the trouble to which I have put myself and the not inconsiderable expenses which I have incurred in preparing this volume, if I can awaken some interest among my countrymen—upon the British Government I do not for an instant expect to make any impression whatever—to the critical position in which our national trade stands to-day in Latin-America generally, but in the Republic of Salvador in particular. The time has apparentlygone by when British trade abroad could depend at least upon the countenance, if not always the active support, of the Ministry of the day.

In the days of William Pitt the Elder it was the proud boast of our rulers that "not a gun should be fired throughout the world without Britain knowing why"; but to-day commercial treaties of the utmost import to British merchants are entered into, new imposts which seriously threaten their existing trade are levied, and favoured-nation terms to their most dangerous commercial rivals are granted, without the Home Government knowing or caring one pin's head about it. Where are "the eyes and the ears" of the State that such things can occur, and where is the patriotism which permits of them occurring? No British Government within the past half-century has as much as inquired about the status of British trade in Latin-America, nor has it troubled its head to find out whether it flourished or failed. For the despicable purpose of currying favour with our keenest rivals in that great field—the United States—such position as we still occupy in that portion of the world is being recklessly and ignorantly sacrificed. How this crime—for crime it assuredly is—is likely to be perpetrated I have shown conclusively in the preceding pages. Let those who are accused answer to the charges—if they can or if they dare!

July 31, 1911.

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