CHAPTER IV.

THE HARBOUR OF ALEXANDRIA—MR. FURNER—SCENE AT THE HARD—A DONKEY STAND—TRIUMPHAL ENTRY INTO THE GREAT SQUARE—THE “INDIA AGENCY”—THE ENGLISH OKELLA—PLAGUE SEALS—CONFIDENTIAL TALK—MR. RAVEN—HASSAN, THE DRAGOMAN—THE BAZAARS—ARAB SHOPKEEPERS—THE HARRAAT—POMPEY’S PILLAR—THE BATHS OF CLEOPATRA.

We reached Alexandria on the 2nd of July, and long before our paddles had ceased moving, we were besieged by a clamorous set of savages in boats, who, clinging to the sides of our vessel, were plentifully greeted with hot water, by the captain’s order, and compelled to retire to a respectful distance, whilst they kept up a continued fire of Arabic, and caused us no little amusement. This was my first introduction to the Modern Egyptians, and when I looked from these half-naked fellows to the shore, and saw the long row-range of sand-hills, and the dismal looking habitations that studded the sides of the harbour, I thought my lines could hardly be said to be cast in pleasant places. Much time was not, however, given me for reflection, as the dropping of the anchor soon aroused me from my reverie. The passengers got awayin small parties, reaching the shore in boats, and I was leaning over the ship’s side to make my selection, when a big-whiskered Frank underneath, startled me with a “Hallo! there; are you for Waghorn?” My reply was followed by an invitation to get into his boat. As we rowed ashore, I found that I had fallen into the hands ofMr.Furner, the very man of whom Portenier had made mention as hislocum tenens.

I shall never forget the scene that awaited us on landing at the hard. Camels, donkeys, merchandize of every description, shrieking women, boys, and greasy Arabs, were jumbled together in indescribable confusion; the men fighting and cuffing one another, with the most violent gesticulations, in their anxiety to appropriate the luggage of the newly arrived passengers, in order to convey it to the city. Furner, armed with a huge whip, which I learnt to call by the name of “Korbash,” dealt his blows right and left on the heads and shoulders of the natives, and speedily cleared a way for us to where a group of donkeys were standing, all saddled and bridled. My friend, selecting the two which he considered the best, told me to mount; an injunction which I mechanically obeyed, for I scarcely knew what I was doing, and was querying with myself whether my Ramsgate and Blackheathexperience in donkey-exercise would avail me aught on the present occasion. The saddles were of stuffed carpet, and very high, and my stirrup-leather broke with me on getting up, an accident no sooner remarked by Furner, than my donkey-boy was rewarded with a little of the “korbash.” To tie it up again, was the work of a moment, and then off we went at a gallop, with a boy at each tail, through some narrow streets, between high walls, where, in addition to the exertion required in keeping my seat, I had continually to bob my head to avoid being knocked off my perch by some passing camel, which, with its ponderous and enormous load, would fill up the whole of the street. Ever and anon, my donkey-boy, by a fearful thwack “a posteriori,” would give my animal a right or left-handed bias, sufficient almost to make me lose my equilibrium, while Furner, who rode behind, could scarce keep his seat for laughter. Five minutes hard riding brought us into the middle of a crowded bazaar, and we were forced to relapse into a trot, our boys clearing a space before us by repeated cries of “shimalek! aminak! ariglak!”[1]&c. The scrambling about of the poor Arab women, in their efforts to get out of the way, was at once ludicrous and painful; and I was unfeignedly glad when wesuddenly emerged into the great square of Alexandria, and pulled up at the door of “Waghorn’s India agency.”

THE AUTHOR’S ENTRY INTO ALEXANDRIA

THE AUTHOR’S ENTRY INTO ALEXANDRIA.

Hitherto, I had had little or no opportunity of saying anything respecting my own business, to Furner, who had very naturally taken me for an India-bound passenger, and it was, therefore, with some degree of surprise that he perusedMr.Waghorn’s letter to Portenier. I was saved for the moment from the deluge of questions with which he seemed ready to overwhelm me, by his suddenly calling to mind that it was considerably past his ordinary breakfast hour; and having learned just enough to satisfy him that I was a duly accredited agent of the “Overland,” he politely asked me to share his morning meal. He was living, he said, in one of Waghorn’s houses in the English “okella,” where, as Portenier was away, there would be ample room for me, and thither accordingly, he sent my portmanteau. Crossing the Great Square, and entering a large gateway, we ascended to a covered gallery, extending round the inner sides of the “okella,” and forming a sort of common hall of entrance to the numerous houses therein comprised. I remarked on each door that we passed, one or more spots of red wax. This, Furner informed me, was the plague-seal, placed there by the authorities, to prevent the egress of the inmates,though he immediately relieved my now critically sensitive nerves, by adding, that they were at least of two years’ standing.

Furner’s dwelling consisted of a large upper-floor of five rooms, with kitchen and servants’ rooms above, the whole sumptuously furnished according to the Eastern notions of comfort, with elegant divans and polished stone floors. I was too hungry on entering to take more than a hasty survey of what I saw, the more especially as sundry tempting looking dishes of novel appearance stood ready on the breakfast table, beside a noble Britannia metal tea-pot, which possessed for me a peculiar charm, after having been debarred for a whole week from a taste of the grateful infusion. As we refreshed ourselves, I acquainted Furner with the circumstances under which I had arrived in Egypt, detailing to him my engagement withMr.Waghorn, and receiving in return a description of my future companions in office, with divers hints of a friendly nature as to the position I ought to take up among them. This I found to be chiefly regulated by the nature of our several engagements, and had the satisfaction of learning from Furner that I was appointed to as good a post as any one, and equal in point of emolument to that of any Englishemployèin Egypt.

We had scarcely finished our meal, when a loud thumping at the outer-door announced a visitor. This proved to beMr.Raven, the resident partner, fresh from Cairo, to whom I was forthwith introduced. This gentleman was, in the first instance connected with aMr.Hill, who is since deceased, and has done a great deal towards establishing and improving the communication between Cairo and Suez, having been indeed, in conjunction with his late associate, one, if nottheprojector of the original Transit Company. It needed however the enterprizing spirit and untiring perseverance ofMr.Waghorn, before the undertaking could be brought to assume any thing like a flourishing appearance; and now that the energies of both are united in one common object, the Egyptian portion of the Overland journey is as perfect as individuals[2]can make it.

FromMr.Raven, who had been apprised by letter of my anticipated arrival, I received orders to await the arrival of the next steamer from Southampton, and conduct the passengers to Cairo, which would, he added, give me a tolerably good insight into the routine of business. As it wantednearly a fortnight to such time, I found I should have ample leisure to make myself acquainted with Alexandria, and to pick up, if possible, some few sentences of Arabic. For this purpose I enlisted into my service the most sagacious of our Dragomen, whom I found a very useful and intelligent fellow. As he possessed a good knowledge of English, he served me as a walking lexicon, and would render for me the more familiar words and sentences, taking great pains to ensure their correct accent.

Our first day’s ramble was confined pretty much to the Bazaars, which form the stranger’s chief object of attraction in an oriental town. Different quarters are devoted to the sale of the various sorts of merchandize, and you may pass successively through an avenue of tailors’ shops, a street of dried dates and quaint-looking groceries, a gaudy labyrinth of rugs and prayer-carpets, and a lane of pipe-sticks and tobacco shops. These are for the most part protected from the sun by a loose boarding over head, devoid of all nails or fastening, so that in blusterous weather, the passer-by is occasionally greeted with a falling plank or stray piece of timber, dislodged by the wind. It requires also considerable caution in threading your way through these narrow passages, as in endeavouring to avoid the heavy tread ofa laden camel, you are possibly knocked down by a donkey, or receive an unwelcome salute in the side or stomach from the bony knee of its rider, who passes quickly onward without a murmur of apology.

The shops which compose these Bazaars, are neither more nor less than large wooden boxes, ranged along a raised platform on either side the way, open only in front, and furnished with shutters and wooden locks, which are secured at night and during thesiesta. Some have a neat sort of railing, and are provided with little seats and stuffed cushions, to which a purchaser to any considerable extent is immediately invited and served with achibouke. During the puffing that ensues, the buyer and seller are occupied in settling the price of the required commodity, the one offering half as much as he intends to give, and the other asking double what he thinks of taking, so that, at the end may be of half-an-hour, they contrive to meet, and a little cup of thick unsweetened coffee from a neighbouring shop, completes the bargain. The purchaser is expected to give a trifling present to the servant of the merchant, who helps him on with his slippers, left during the interview, in the street below.

The “Harraat,” or walking-auction, forms a most amusingscene, and in order to view it to the best advantage, Hassan got me a seat on the divan of one of his acquaintance in the Bazaar. The goods to be disposed of, are held at arm’s length above the head, and as soon as the owner has obtained a reasonable offer, he rushes up and down the Bazaar shouting “harraat, harraat!” getting every now and then a fresh bid until he finds no one is inclined to advance, when he is compelled to let his wares go to the last bidder. In this manner I saw silver-mounted pistols sold for fifteen shillings the pair; Arab scymitars, jackets and waistcoats embroidered with lace, scarfs, ink-stands, and red caps, and some amber mouth-pieces; of these some would fetch their full value, whilst others would go for a mere song: and on the whole I would rather purchase in the “harraat,” than run the risk of a lengthy bargain at a shop.

In the evening, Furner insisted on my taking another lesson in donkey-riding, so selecting two of the best looking from thestandclose to our office door, we cantered through the square towards Cleopatra’s Needle, which forms a prominent object on the sea-shore, just outside the town. On our way, we passed through a dirty Arab village, where we were besieged by a crowd of urchins who begged of and then threw stones at us. We were compelled to gallop awayas fast as our donkeys would go, to get out of the reach of the heavy missiles with which they occasionally obliged us, though had their numbers been less formidable, it is probable we should have stood our ground and shewed fight. For this sort of reception we were indebted to our Frank costume; for I found a few weeks afterwards, when I had adopted the dress of the country, that I could pass the same spot, and others equally notorious, unmolested.

From the Needles, we made a long round to Pompey’s Pillar and the Baths of Cleopatra. There is a good view from the base of the former over the Mahmoudieh Canal, which fertilizes in its course a narrow strip of country, and studded as it mostly is with numerous sails, forms a curious feature in the landscape. The pillar stands out in solitary grandeur from a vast plain of ruins and tombs, the site of ancient Alexandria. Hard by is a little building bearing some resemblance to a temple; this is a refuge for hard-pressed debtors, a strong-hold against all pursuit, and so long as they remain under its friendly shelter, neither law nor remorseless creditor has power to lay hands upon them. Our road to what are said to be the Baths of Cleopatra, lay through a bustling and most dirty street of low Arab dwellings, to a kind of quay or shipping place for corn, near towhich is a group of quaint looking wind-mills with six or eight sails each, the whole in full motion, spinning round with a rushing noise that sorely alarmed our poor donkeys, although it served to prove to us that there was at least no lack of corn in Egypt. A dusty gallop of another mile then brought us to the shore, where we tethered our beasts, and proceeded to examine the spot where it is alleged that the “Queen of Beauty” used to perform her ablutions. The Baths consist of three or four rocky caves open to the sea, where sheltered from the scorching rays of the sun, the water acquires an enticing temperature, and ripples in and out at a depth of several feet. Close by the Baths, in a sandy cliff, are some excavations of prodigious size, which an old Arab informed us were Catacombs, but as they contain no bones or relics of mortality, and do not even boast of a stray skull or two, he found us somewhat sceptical; the old man conducted us through the outermost apartments, but having no candles, and the evening closing in, we could see but little of their dimensions, so pitching him a few paras we hastened homewards.

FOOTNOTES:[1]“To the left; to the right; mind your legs!”[2]Since leaving Egypt, I have learnt that the whole concern has passed into other and more powerful hands, who, by the employment of considerable capital, have succeeded in facilitating the passage of travellers across the Isthmus.

[1]“To the left; to the right; mind your legs!”

[2]Since leaving Egypt, I have learnt that the whole concern has passed into other and more powerful hands, who, by the employment of considerable capital, have succeeded in facilitating the passage of travellers across the Isthmus.

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