CHAPTER IX.
THE NILE BOAT—VOYAGE DOWN THE RIVER—DEFENSIVE PREPARATIONS—SUDDEN SQUALL—NARROW ESCAPE—ALEXANDRIA—RIVAL HOTELS—LESSONS IN DONKEYSHIP—DOMESTIC COOKERY—THE “GREAT LIVERPOOL”—PHYSIOLOGY OF THE SEIS.
THE NILE BOAT—VOYAGE DOWN THE RIVER—DEFENSIVE PREPARATIONS—SUDDEN SQUALL—NARROW ESCAPE—ALEXANDRIA—RIVAL HOTELS—LESSONS IN DONKEYSHIP—DOMESTIC COOKERY—THE “GREAT LIVERPOOL”—PHYSIOLOGY OF THE SEIS.
At the end of the month I accompaniedMr.Raven to Alexandria in one of his Nile sailing-boats, which are light and commodious little vessels, drawing but two or three feet of water, and especially adapted for the voyage into upper Egypt, to which purpose indeed they are principally applied. Having sunk it under water for a day or two, and cleansed it as much as possible of fleas and cockroaches, we shipped a goodly cafass of provisions, and taking with us an Arab cook, embarked at nightfall. The wind was unfortunately against us, obliging our crew to use their oars, and very much retarding our progress. Our boat, which was somewhat of a hobby of Raven’s, was very completely fitted with every possible convenience, and had two compact little cabins under the poop-deck, just long enough for a person to lie down in, one being furnished with bed-places. In themiddle of the forward cabin, was a sort of tuck-up table, on which our supper was now laid out by our swarthy factotum, who had for some little time been tickling our appetites with the grateful odours of certain savoury ragoûts, concocted over a charcoal fire ’midships. Over our heads, suspended from the roof, swung a monstrous stable-lantern, shedding a dim yellow light, just sufficient to show us the way to our mouths, for to read or talk were equally impossible, owing to the unceasing song of the Arab boatmen, who accompany themselves as they row, with a rude melody, by no means grateful to English ears. All we could do, was to recline at our ease, and puff away at our chibouques, until the heavy dew, which wetted everything, as effectually as if we had been exposed to a drizzling rain, drove us to our couches.
I awoke several times during the night, and emerging from the cabin, found every one but myself fast asleep, the vessel gliding noiselessly down the stream. Even the head of the old Reis, who was perched upon the roof of the cabin, had dropped down upon his chest, and saving the ripple of the water under our bows, and the measured snore of some of our party, no sound was to be heard, and we moved imperceptibly onwards in perfect stillness. I had no heart toarouse any of the poor tired Arabs from their stolen slumbers, the more especially, as I knew the danger of running aground to be but slight; so once more seeking my hard bed, and covering myself completely in my cloak, I bid defiance to musquitoes and cockroaches, and was soon deep in pleasant dreams of home.
The two next days were passed in our boat, the monotony of the voyage being varied by occasional runs on shore, when we moored at some village or other, to take in a fresh supply of milk or vegetables. At other times, where the high banks afforded good walking, we indulged in a little shooting, for doves and small birds were very plentiful, and afforded excellent eating. As the third night closed in, a light breeze sprung up, which aided us considerably in our progress, and inspired our tired crew with fresh energy.
As we made our preparations for turning in, I remarked that Raven drew from his pocket a huge knife, which, after a careful inspection, he deposited with great gravity under his pillow, though whether as a precaution against intrusion, or any act of foul play on the part of our boatmen, I did not inquire, merely viewing such unwonted preparation with considerable curiosity.
I had not been long asleep, when I found myself suddenlyrolled from my sofa on to the floor, our stable-lantern and dining-table bearing me company; and on opening my eyes, I could just catch a glimpse of Raven escaping from the door-way with his big knife, whilst the violent vociferations of the Arabs on deck, mingled with a confused rushing sound of both wind and water, and the alarming lurch of the vessel, left me in some doubt as to whether I was murdered or drowning. A moment more and tranquillity was restored; the boat righted, and I found my legs. Emerging from the cabin, I learnt that a sudden puff of wind had caught our huge lateen sail, which, in true Arab fashion, had been made fast to a ring in the deck, whilst the lazy sailor, who ought to have held it, was enjoying a comfortable nap. Had it not been for the promptitude displayed by Raven, who had severed the rope with the trusty knife from under his pillow, it is more than probable thathewould have got a sound ducking, andIhave served as abonne bouchefor some stray crocodile; for the Nile boatmen, who are amphibious, and look upon an unexpected dip rather as a treat than otherwise, have the unpleasant habit of extending assistance only to those in supreme authority. Thus, while they would have rescuedMr.Raven, I might have bubbled away my last breath in the cabin, or havefloated down the stream, entirely unheeded and uncared for.
Providentially, however, we were saved from capsizing, and having bestowed two or three hearty kicks on the man who had caused the sudden alarm, we retired again to our couches, and reached Atféh about daybreak, without farther mishap.
Half-an-hour was passed here in preparing one of the iron track-boats to convey us down the Canal to Alexandria, where we arrived about three in the afternoon, and just in time for me to put off in a little boat to meet one of the French steamers, which was visible in the offing. Furner and I had a sharp race with a rival boat from Colomb’s Hotel, and as the French captain suffered their agent to come on board, whilst he politely saluted us with a copious sprinkling of warm water, it was some satisfaction to remark that there was not even one solitary passenger for either of us. There is considerable jealousy between the proprietors of the “Rey” and “Colomb,” by which names the two principal hotels are distinguished, and we hear that the opposing party is about to start some canal-boats, and a couple of desert carriages, at a lower rate of transit. This is doubtless all very fair, and as competition generallybenefits the public, we shall watch with interest the progress of our rivals.
Mr.Raven quitted us again the next day to return to Cairo, taking with him Mrs. Hill and her little daughter, the widow and child of his late partner, who had been sojourning some time in Alexandria. We drove down to Moharrem Bey in one of Rey’s carriages, and the evening being very dark, we had much difficulty in picking our way through the ruins which mark the site of the ancient city, and ran many chances of an upset in one or other of the deep holes which skirt the track. Raven gave me instructions, upon this occasion, to look after and see to the safe conduct of the Marquis of ——, the newly appointed Governor of Madras, who is expected by the next steamer from England, and enjoined me to pay particular attention to the comfort of his lordship during the voyage to Cairo, and to place at his disposal the whole of one of our track-boats, that he may be delayed as little as possible. Having received my orders, I returned to the Okella with the agreeable prospect before me of a few days quiet, prior to the arrival of the next mail.
I shall spare the reader a detail of my every-day life at Alexandria, for my time when not taken up by office-duties, or the study of Arabic, in which I was now making someprogress, was chiefly occupied in strolling through the bazaars, or in extended rambles with Furner on donkey-back, in search of the picturesque. Our rides were frequently productive of much amusement, for Furner excelled in donkeyship, riding at full gallop à la Franconi, or sitting with his face to the tail, in order to obtain a better command of his animal’s flank. Numerous also, were the tumbles we got, but as we never made use of our stirrups, we invariably pitched upon our feet, and by this very simple precaution, escaped the bruises which fall to the lot of such as place too much confidence in these little animals.
We were frequently accompanied in our rambles by our fair friend from Beyrout, who had shewn her appreciation of Raven’s offer of house-room for a few days, by permanently hanging up her cap in our hall, where she makes herself extremely useful in superintending our household affairs. Were she anything of a cook, it is probable that our own particular “chef” would take umbrage at her interference, but she is guiltless of even the most superficial knowledge of the art, and it was with much difficulty that I initiated her into the mystery of making an apple-pie. It is true that the first attempt on my part was any thing but calculated to impress her with a very exalted idea of my qualifications, but then Ihad so many difficulties to contend with. In the first place, I do not suppose that all Egypt could have furnished a pie-dish, for which I was compelled to substitute an Italian wash-hand basin. One of our tables served as a dough-board, and an empty wine-bottle for a rolling-pin, and having cut and cored my apples, I covered the whole over with what I thought an excellent paste, and sent it to a neighbouring oven, reserving myself during the first part of our dinner for the full enjoyment of the anticipated luxury. It came in due course, but somehow or other resisted all our efforts to get at the inside of it. Our knives made no impression whatever on the crust, which was of adamantine quality, totally shaming the old proverb about promises and pie-crusts, and after various ineffectual schemes, we found our only way was to turn it bottom upwards, and carefully break away the dish, revenging ourselves upon the apples, which were excellent. Succeeding attempts proved more satisfactory, and we became eventually rather famous for our productions in this branch of cookery.
On the 18th of the month, the “Great Liverpool” arrived at Alexandria, bringing the expected Marquis of ——, and about forty other passengers. We got away about three in the afternoon, reaching Atféh at midnight, butthe quantity of luggage was so enormous, that it took us upwards of three hours to shift it on board the “Cairo” steamer, and two hours more would very likely have been occupied, but for the assistance of a French gentleman named Cler, connected in some way with the Company, who had accompanied us thus far. We did at last turn our backs upon Atféh, and after a brief stoppage at Cairo, arrived at Suez just in time to catch the “Berenice” steamer, although some of our party, who stuck fast in the sand, between Nos. 2 and 3 Station, had a hard push for it: these were the Governor of Goa and his suite, four gentlemen in one carriage, who were compelled to vary the monotony of their journey by a ride of sixteen miles on the bare backs of the horses, which brought them on toNo.4 in a deplorable condition. It was some consolation to them to find a good meal in readiness, for having seen their mishap, I had ridden quickly forward, in order to dispatch an empty carriage to bring them on, a procedure, now rendered useless by their appearance. So anxious were they about catching the steamer, that I could with difficulty persuade them to sit down while they swallowed their hot stew.
On reaching Suez, I went on board the “Berenice,” withMr.Hill, who, having personally driven the Marquis of ——across the desert, obtained a flattering testimonial as to care and attention during the journey, which had in fact been made in little more than twelve hours, by those in the first three carriages. At the hotel, I met with a Captain J——, an officer on sick leave, from India, who bore me company on my return to Cairo; and as time was no particular object to either of us, we spent two days and nights on the way, changing horses only once. Our “Seis,” or running footman, kept up with us the whole weary eighty-four miles, relieving himself only by occasionally hanging on behind, and refusing our offer of a seat inside with stoical indifference. He, poor fellow, like the rest of his class, was a mere skeleton, his flesh being wasted away by undue perspirations, and a lack of such food as is essential to keep up the stamina during such continued exercise. Each set of horses, or team, has its attendant “Seis,” who, whilst the animals are resting, snatches a brief sleep, and swallows his unpretending meal of bread and water, with perhaps a relish in the shape of an onion, or a pull at thenargilehof the oldbawaub, or door-keeper. As it sometimes happens that the same team of horses has to perform two or three stages, the poor “Seis” comes in for a double duty, which is, nevertheless, unhesitatingly accomplished, and even entered upon with joyfulalacrity, should the prospect be seasoned with the promise of a trifle ofbucksheeshon the part of any of the travellers. I have known them to convey a letter or message from Cairo to Suez with incredible speed, running all the way, and carrying with them in the bosom of their blue cotton shirt, just as much bread as would serve to sustain them on the journey.