CHAPTER VI.

THE NILE STEAM-BOAT—A DECK DINNER—BOULAC—THE ESBEKIER—THE “GRAND EASTERN HOTEL”—MR. RAVEN’S OFFICE—THE TRANSIT-BUSINESS—LOADING OF THE CAMELS—DEPARTURE OF THE CARAVAN—THE DESERT—THE STATIONS—WATER.

The water in the Mahmoudieh Canal being at this season of the year very low, and the steep muddy banks extremely slippery, it was no easy matter to disembark all the heavy luggage belonging to our passengers. The Arabs, however, are excellent porters, and will carry enormous loads; so much so, that I was surprised at the apparent facility with which the shifting of so great a quantity of material was accomplished. One ofMr.Waghorn’s agents, who is located at Atféh, sends off a lot of camels to the landing place, which transport the heavier baggage to the river side, where it is immediately stored on board the Nile steamer. This agent, who is an intelligent Italian, must lead a weary life in Atféh, for of all places it has been my lot to visit, I never saw one so truly forbidding. It is a town of considerable trade, and the quays are covered with timber and bales of merchandize. Pigs by the thousand run about in all directions, whilst thepath from the canal-boat to the steamer is through a perfect Slough of Despond. With the exception of the Pasha’s corn-store, there is but one decent-looking building in the place: this is, of course, the hotel, where, on extraordinary occasions they can make up three or four beds, though woe befall the unhappy wight who trusts himself to the tender mercies of its host. On the ground-floor is a sort of wine and spirit-store, where the traveller can be accommodated with all the various growths of the Levant, and this is perhaps the only redeeming quality in the character of the “Grand Hotel de France.”

In the course of two hours, we had everything removed on board a little steamer, which lay fizzing at the quay side, capable of carrying, at a pinch, fifty passengers with their effects. On this occasion, we did not muster much more than half that number, and therefore found ample accommodation. As for myself, I was so tired with my unusual exertions of the last few hours, that I had no sooner reached the deck of the “Cairo,” than I spread out my mat, and was soon in a sound sleep, from which I was ere long aroused by a great clatter of knives and plates at the hour of dinner. A long table on the after-part of the deck, was lined on either side with my voracious countrymen, and although Antonio tried hard to obtain me a corner seat, his efforts were unavailing,and instead of being greeted, as I had fondly anticipated, with an invitation to do as the rest, a long-whiskered officer with his mouth full of chicken, ordered me to change his plate, very naturally mistaking me for one of the Arab attendants. I obeyed the order at once, but fearing that if I staid at the table, I might be subjected to a renewal of these unceremonious commands, and thus establish a bad precedent, I beat a retreat towards the caboose, and made friends with the head engineer, who was in the act of sitting down to a steaming mess of savoury stew, laid out upon the head of a cask, with a garnish of sparkling pale ale. On the paddle-box above us, sat the old Reis or pilot, gazing at us with extreme complacency, whilst waiting for his turn at the dish. This individual is the most important in the ship, as, without his knowledge of the river, we should be continually running aground on one or other of the numerous shoals, which at “low Nile” render the navigation somewhat intricate and dangerous. There he sits by day and by night, always at his post, and ever wakeful, giving an occasional sign to the Arab at the helm.[3]

We had now progressed a long way up the river, and as yet ungratified by anything like a prospect, the high muddy banks shutting out from us all view of the adjacent country. Occasionally we passed within hail of a Fellah town, and could hear the joyous shouts of the little children, as they proclaimed the approach of the “Meerkib-al-nar,” or Fireship, as their own language expresses it. As night came on, our little deck was gradually deserted, very few of the passengers choosing to encounter a wetting from the dew which was now descending almost as heavily as rain. I gave one look below to see if there was a chance of making my bed on or under some table or other, but every available place was occupied, and I was forced to throw myself upon the deck, rolled up in a thick Bernous cloak, which defended me from both dew and mosquitoes, and had it not been for one of the boatmen, who very unceremoniously walked on my leg, I should have slept undisturbed until daybreak.

About ten o’clock on the day following, we were just able to see the Pyramids of Ghizeh, pointing faintly upwards in the distance, and at noon reached Boulac,[4]the port of Cairo,where we disembarked, and rode a mile-and-a-half into the city, some on donkeys, and others in a sort of donkey chair. Consigning the mail boxes to the care of an agent, who was in waiting to receive them, I cantered on into Cairo, under the guidance of the lad, who ran behind me; and passing through the outer gate of the city, found myself on the Esbikier, or “great square,” a vast area of dry, cracked mud, surrounded by deep canals, devoid of water, and bordered by a double row of dusty-looking trees.

Leaving the Esbikier, we entered a very narrow street, in the which, about half way down, an overhanging board directs the traveller to the “Grand Eastern Hotel,” and turning down a still narrower alley, rendered almost dark by the extreme contiguity of the upper parts of the houses, we passed under an arched gateway, and entered the court-yard. A grim-looking Maltese waiter ushered me into the presence ofMr.Raven, who was busy writing in his office, a little sort of sanctum on the first-floor, which I shall describe at length hereafter. This gentleman welcomed me very kindly, inquiring how many passengers I had, and if they had all found conveyances to the city, &c., but before he would permit me to answer him, he pointed to agoolahofwater and brandy bottle which stood by, and would hear nothing until I had taken a draught.

I then gave him a detailed account of our journey so far, and handed him a parcel of letters and a passenger list, which I had brought with me from Alexandria. I had made up my mind to something like a day’s rest in Cairo, and was therefore somewhat surprised, though by no means disappointed, when told that I had better accompany the caravan to Suez, and make preparation for an immediate departure—“And,” added Raven, “if you want anything to eat, find your way to the kitchen, and lay hands on anything you most fancy, for if you wait till dinner-time and sit down with the rest, ten to one but you are called away before you can swallow a mouthful!” This advice was no sooner given than acted upon; so, guided by my nose, I passed through sundry passages and offices, and came upon a whole bevy of greasy Arab cooks, busy in dishing-up all sorts of good things, and too much occupied to take any notice of my invasion of their territory. Giving a hasty glance around, I made choice of a tempting looking chicken, just fresh from the spit, with which I made off, without apology, although I believe very greatly to the astonishment of the cooks, who madedes grands yeuxat my impudence.An agreeable looking English girl, belonging to the establishment, whom I encountered in my retreat, introduced me to a plate and roll of bread, and sitting down I made a capital dinner.

On my return toMr.Raven’s office, I found him busy with a list of the passengers, arranging their various places in the carriages which were to convey us to Suez. On a divan, under the window, was seated a portly looking gentleman,[5]in a Turkish dress, very intently conning over the last batch of Galignani, and smoking a Manilla, whilst one or two of the passengers who had escaped from the dinner-table, were changing English money into nine-piastre pieces, and asking innumerable questions. Motioning me to a seat at a desk alongside him, and at the same time introducing me to the gentleman upon the sofa, Raven supplied me with a cheroot and a bottle of pale ale, and handed me a rough list of the transit accounts to be put into proper form, before collecting the monies. “When,” said he, “you have receipted all these, and returned them to me, you may get away as soon as you like.” I found each little bill to consist of a printed form; so much for transit from Cairo toSuez, so much for camel-hire for baggage, and a third item for hotel expenses, the whole very simple and easily comprehended. The taking of the money was not so readily accomplished, as I had some little difficulty in making people understand how the charge for luggage was regulated. The hire of a camel to cross the desert is about twelve shillings, and his load seldom or never more than two packages; one on each side. A lady, therefore, with a heavy portmanteau and two large paper bandboxes, might be called upon to pay a camel and a half, whilst her husband, with two enormous and weighty bullock trunks, would probably pay but for one camel. A hat-box and writing-desk have been assessed at half a camel, for the Bedouins have but little idea of properly balancing a load; and I have frequently seen a heavy iron-bound trunk, counterpoised by a huge, but light, paper bonnet-box, or a colossal carpet-bag and a bird-cage, in ludicrous contraposition.

The loading takes place in a spacious court-yard at the back of the hotel, the camels kneeling to receive their burdens, which are secured in rude net-work bags, and the noise and confusion at such times is almost distracting. The animals are very touchy, and manifest their displeasure by a child-like groan, which it is almost distressing to hear. Themotion of their heads too requires constant watching, as they turn round to bite and snap at the slightest provocation, and seem to have a peculiar dislike to the Frank dress, which attracts them more than the blue smocks of the Bedouin. The distribution of the loads is superintended by different servants of the company from every quarter of the globe; and as each tries to make himself heard amid the general din, there is a perfect Babel of tongues.

With all this, just under the open window of the little room in which we were sitting, I found my labour in the way of accounts to progress but slowly; and it was no little relief to me, when the hubbub was exchanged for a state of comparative quiet, produced by the departure of the camels with the baggage, which generally precedes the rest of the caravan.

By five in the afternoon, everything was reported in readiness for a start, but as I had occasion to wait for some papers entrusted to me by Raven, I was almost the last who reached the place of departure. In a wide part of an adjacent street, I found five or six covered carts with two wheels, and four stout horses attached to each; these are capable of holding four persons comfortably, and as they are well balanced, and run on enormously large wheels, theirmotion is both easy and agreeable. Each passenger has his particular seat assigned him before starting, so that there is no confusion or scrambling for places, care being also taken not to separate the members of one family more than can be avoided; children and ladies are generally confided to the care of the most experienced English drivers, while the gentlemen are handed over to the tender mercies of some Maltese, or native knight of the whip, if the caravan be so large as to put all the carriages in requisition.

On looking over the list, I found myself booked with two missionaries and a reverend divine; a fact which manifested a kindly interest in my welfare on the part ofMr.Raven, who pushed in after me a couple of black bottles, and gave the order to go forward. Whisking round the Esbikier, we passed the outer gate and suburbs, and then after a jolting drive of near a mile through narrow lanes, bordered by hedge-rows of prickly pear and luxuriant aloes, emerged on to the smooth sand of the desert; half a mile on, are two curious looking erections of brick, called the Tombs of the Sheiks, and these once out of sight, there is nought to greet the eye but a vast expanse of sand, enclosed at the horizon on either side within a low range of sand hills, which extend almost without interruption the entire way to Suez. Theroute of the caravan is more direct than that taken by the Israelites formerly, (which is more to the southward, almost without wells, and hilly,) and with one exception, where it crosses a ridge of rock, runs due East and West in a straight line.

Horse-drawn wagon

For the convenience of passengers to and from India, places of refuge or Stations, have been erected at uniform distances, where man and beast may find refreshment, and shelter from the scorching sun. Those travelling through the agency of Messrs. Waghorn,[6]are entitled to avail themselves to any extent of the accommodation afforded, saving as to wines, &c., which are charged extra; but should a party making the journey, independent altogether of such agency, neglect to provide himself with a ticket of admission to these Stations, he will find himself condemned to abstinence from food and water for the entire eighty-four miles, unless he carry with him a sufficient supply. Wells thereare none, saving one of dirty brackish water near Suez, and this is more often dry than not. At the Stations, however, there is always an abundant supply of good water, kept cool under ground in iron tanks, and brought from the Nile in skins at a great expense; and should this by any untoward chance be wanting, the traveller may slake his thirst with the best of ale or beer at a shilling the bottle. If too fastidious to descend to vulgar malt, he will find a modest looking “carte des vins” in the dining-rooms of three out of seven of the Stations, from which he may make his selection, without risk of being compelled to complain either of quality or price.

I am aware that there are many who have found fault with the apparently high charge made for the transit between Cairo and Suez; but these may not have sufficiently considered the great trouble and expense necessarily incurred in providing due accommodation. They have scarcely any idea of the number of skins of water required to fill one tank, nor, perhaps, do they reflect, while filling out or polishing their own skins, and using as much of the precious fluid as they can desire, that the poor camel or donkey which brought it forty weary miles from the Nile, returns all the way back again, without having wetted its lips more than once, if even so much as that. Then again, should a goat-skinspring a leak, or burst while on the road, which not unfrequently happens, what is to recompense the poor Bedouin, who has tramped the whole way on foot, and whose donkey, on which he solely relies for a livelihood, is the bearer of but one skin of water at a time.[7]

FOOTNOTES:[3]Our little vessel when originally sent out to Egypt by the Oriental Company, was fitted with a rudder-wheel, but as the native boatmen could never be induced to work it, a long tiller was substituted in its stead.[4]The distance from Atféh to Boulac, by the Nile, is about 120 English miles.[5]Dr.A., an eminent physician, long resident in Cairo, well known by most who have visited that city.[6]1842-3.[7]A young officer, on his wayoutto India, having upon one occasion, ordered Champagne, really was, or appeared to be, extremely annoyed that it was sent upun-iced! I never found any onereturning, make any unreasonable objections of this kind.

[3]Our little vessel when originally sent out to Egypt by the Oriental Company, was fitted with a rudder-wheel, but as the native boatmen could never be induced to work it, a long tiller was substituted in its stead.

[4]The distance from Atféh to Boulac, by the Nile, is about 120 English miles.

[5]Dr.A., an eminent physician, long resident in Cairo, well known by most who have visited that city.

[6]1842-3.

[7]A young officer, on his wayoutto India, having upon one occasion, ordered Champagne, really was, or appeared to be, extremely annoyed that it was sent upun-iced! I never found any onereturning, make any unreasonable objections of this kind.

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