CHAPTER XII.

INFLUX OF TRAVELLERS—PROVISION STORES—THE PRESERVED “ROUND”—NEW YEAR’S-DAY—MELANCHOLY OPENING OF NEW YEAR—VISIT TO THE PYRAMIDS—OLD SELIM—A MOONLIGHT WALK—THE SPHYNX AND GERMAN SAVANS—ASCENT OF CHEOPS—THE INTERIOR OF THE PYRAMIDS—UNCEREMONIOUS INTRUDERS—TRIAL OF SKILL—A CRACK SHOT.

I reached Cairo the following morning, and thus ended my engagement with Messrs. Waghorn and Co. On resigning my office, I was gratified with a flattering testimonial fromMr.Raven, and an invitation to consider the hotel as my home, so long as I might incline to remain in Egypt. Being as yet quite undetermined what to do, I accepted his very kind offer, occasionally resuming my accustomed seat in the little office, and rendering what assistance I could, in expediting the mails and passengers. There was a good deal of business also, consequent upon the almost daily arrival of parties bound on a visit to Upper Egypt; and not only were all our own boats put in requisition, but many more were hired for the excursion from Boulac and other places. These latter, we were always compelled to sink for somedays before they were fit for the reception of any civilized beings, to drive out the cockroaches and other vermin, with which they were infested; and as the temporary owners of these little craft, were naturally desirous of showing off to advantage, in the eyes of such of their countrymen as they would fall in with during their voyage, they sometimes went to considerable expense in having them newly decorated with gaudy arabesques, and quaint patterns, in the brightest colours.

Each boat sailed under a different flag, and a pattern card of such flags as were already up the Nile, was hung in the long room of the hotel, so that each succeeding adventurer might vary his device. For some weeks, the inn appeared as if converted into a sort of wholesale provision warehouse, such ransacking was there of stores and cellars, in quest of the necessaries to furnish the travellingcafassof each party. Great was the draw upon the bottled-ale department, and Messrs. Guiness and Bass, certainly owe a large debt of gratitude to old father Nile, who has so wisely tempered his waters with a mild aperient quality, as to place medicine-chests at a discount at the cataracts, and force even the teetotal traveller to slake his thirst in beer.

Preserved provisions of all sorts were dragged from thecob-webbed recesses under the stairs, where they had lain for many a long year, and the entrance hall was strewed with hermetic legs of pork, giblet-soups, and stewed breasts of veal, with every thing else in the culinary calendar. Among the red tin pots which contained these hidden delicacies, I found one of unusual size, of which the “etiquette” proclaimed the presence of a “round of beef.” Now, it was seven months at least, since I had taken a cut at anything, at all resembling a genuine “round,” and as this pot was the only one of its species, and certainly had no business among the lesser fry, I carried it to Raven. He had not, as it happened, ordered our dinner for that day, and it was therefore settlednem con, that we should dine off the round as soon as it was cooked,Dr.A—— being invited to join us, and share the delicacy. With hammer and chisel, I proceeded to make a breach in the well-soldered top, and drew blood in the shape of a jet of savoury juice, which saluted my face and shirt-front. “There, there,” said Raven, “don’t waste the liquor; call the cook, and let him transfer all to the stew-pan, a quarter of an hour’s simmering will do.” We sat down to table, and smacking our lips, awaited the arrival of Nasr, who made his appearance just as the doctor had finished whetting his knife.Never shall I forget the look of bewildered surprise depicted upon the countenances of my two companions, as Moosah set down and uncovered the dish. There was the “round” certainly, but alas! “quantum mutatus ab illo:” a thing like a Norfolk biffin greeted our astonished gaze, floating in a sea of mouldy gravy. Nasr hardly knew whether to regard it as a joke, or some species of foreign delicacy, with which he was previously unacquainted. As for ourselves, we waited until the cook had prepared us some dish not quite sorecherché, whilst we all agreed, that although the “round of beef” might have beenpotted, it certainly had not been very wellpreserved!

THE ROUND OF BEEF

THE “ROUND OF BEEF.”

New Year’s-day came in due course, but although Raven, on hospitable thoughts intent, had gathered all his English friends around him, our enjoyment was very much saddened by the alarming illness of Mrs. H——, an agreeable young countrywoman, in whom we were all much interested. With death, as it were, at the door, it was scarcely possible that the guests assembled in the long room should indulge in any feeling of hilarity, and thus, although the cheer was ample and excellent, and there was abundance of everything calculated to promote conviviality, our New Year’s dinner passed off in gloom and silence. As for myself, I was suffering soacutely from an attack of rheumatism, that I was glad to retire long before the rest, Bell, who was also on the sick list, bearing me company. The death of our poor friend, occurred early in the morning, and more suddenly than any of us had anticipated. I spent many hours in the house of mourning, to assist in performing the last melancholy duties. The body was consigned to the grave the same afternoon, in a Greek place of burial, near to Old Cairo, the mourners following in two of our desert carriages, drawn by eight white horses at a full trot. TheRev.R—— L—— read the burial service, and before dusk, the whole of the mournful ceremony was over, and we had returned to our homes. Poor H—— felt his bereavement so severely, that he could never be persuaded to return to his own deserted hearth; and his house, which formed a part of the Company’s premises, was afterwards fitted up for the accommodation of such travellers as could not obtain room at the hotel. As such, a portion of it fell to my lot, and I remained there until the period of my quitting Cairo.

Being now, as it were, an idle man, I resolved upon making my long-thought-of visit to the Pyramids, and had no sooner communicated my intention to Furner, who was staying for a few days at the hotel, than he volunteered tojoin me.Mr.Raven, for some reason or other was unable to accompany us, but we had in his place an English gentleman, who held a government appointment in Egypt.

Mounted on the best donkeys we could select, and followed by a train of attendant Arabs, loaded with the necessary provender, we quitted the hotel late in the afternoon, and rushing at a hand gallop through the narrow streets, and quaint-looking gardens of the suburb, reached, in less than half an-hour, the banks of the Nile, at Fostât, or Old Cairo. Those bound to the Pyramids of Ghizeh, usually cross just above the Island of Rhoda, where the current, owing to the great breadth of the river, is not so strong as to render navigation difficult. A flat-bottomed boat conveyed us to the opposite shore, landing us, donkeys and all, at the little village of Ghizeh. Here we laid in a stock of fruit, such as limes, dates and bananas, and swelled our cortége by the addition of two or three ragged-looking fellows, who persisted in following us, to help us over the various canals and dykes with which our path was intersected by the late inundation of the Nile.

It was dark when we left the village, and gained the open country beyond, and it required constant care on the part of our self-constituted guides to prevent our donkeys fromstumbling into the wide cracks which stretched across our path. We had many dykes to ford, our animals being easily persuaded to take to the water, though we eventually came to abonâ fidecanal, which at first sight seemed to present an insurmountable obstacle to our further progress. We all mechanically drew bridle on the high shelving bank, gazing into the dark-looking stream below, with any thing but pleasurable feelings, and here we made a forced halt, whilst a scout ran off to ascertain if there was any other spot at which we could more easily effect a crossing. Not finding any such, one of our guides stripped himself and waded in, and it was some consolation to find, that at the deepest part, the water barely covered his shoulders. Seeing that there was no way of escaping a partial wetting, I divested myself of my nether garments, which I rolled round my gun and carried in my hand, and holding tight on by his top-knot, got safe across upon the shoulders of the tallest Arab of our party, sending him back for my companions. In this way we all reached the opposite bank with but little inconvenience, the donkeys swimming over after us, but as our saddles were soaked, and we ourselves somewhat chilled, we performed the remainder of our journey on foot, reaching the tomb in the neighbourhoodof the Pyramids about ten o’clock, just as the moon was rising.

Old Selim had already retired for the night, but a shot fired from one of our guns gave him notice of our approach, and as we came to the bottom of the steps which lead to his hermitage, he was lighting up for our reception. The rock upon which the chief Pyramid appears to be based, crops out of the sand in the form of a gigantic step,[13]and in its face are several caverns, partly excavated, I believe by Colonel Vyse, which serve in the present day for the dwelling of one or two Arabs, and have been rudely fitted up as resting places for travellers.

Selecting the most commodious of these chambers, which, in addition to a low stone divan round three of its sides, boasted also of a tortuous hole in the roof by way of chimney, we got old Selim to light a fire of dried sticks and charcoal, and spreading our mats upon the floor, were quickly in enjoyment of an excellent supper, for which our nocturnal ramble had secured us a hearty appetite. Cold fowls there were, and pigeons galore, as well as piping hot potatoes, which we drew from out the embers. Thanks to our fair purveyor at the hotel, our cafass was abundantly furnished,and we found on inspection that there was no need to be so chary of our stock of meat and brandy, as to refuse a restorative to some of our dripping escort, who stood shivering at the door of the cavern whilst we were taking our meal.

Hitherto, neither Furner nor myself had seen the Pyramids, having been prevented by the extreme darkness of the night. Now, however, the moon had illumined the far-off Nile and the desert beneath us with a flood of brilliant light, which tempted us from our chimney corner, and ascending accordingly the last broken flight of steps leading to the summit of the rock, old Cheops and his two satellites burst upon our view. The angle nearest to us presented a tapering line of fantastic shadows, as the broken masses of stone caught the bright moonlight, the northern face of the Pyramid appearing from the contrast to be thrown into darkness, looking cold and gloomy, whilst the shadow cast by the enormous mass, undulated over the uneven sand in the foreground, and was lost far away in the desert. Beyond, as if guardian of the gigantic wonders around him, lay the Sphynx, crouched like some monster watch-dog, and turning his back most contemptuously upon a large party of German savans, who had pitched their tents within the very sweep of his tail. These gentlemen, intheir inordinate thirst after knowledge, have grubbed holes in all directions, and with the exception of the three Pyramids, have turned nearly every thing topsy-turvy. Even the Sphynx has been partially undermined in the hunt after hieroglyph, and a splendid specimen has been exposed which is expected to throw some light upon the unknown tongue. At the time of our nocturnal visit to their bivouac, the literati had retired to rest, but hearing voices, a sentinel protruded his head from the tent and challenged us inHoch-Deutsch, a language about as familiar to most of our party, as the hidden one of the Pharaohs. Managing, however, to prove to his satisfaction, that we were neither enemies nor thieves, the head was withdrawn, and we returned to our own sleeping-place.

We were out before sunrise in the morning, and after the usual andnownecessary cup of coffee, commenced the ascent of the Pyramid of Cheops, the first and highest of the three, and the only one whose summit is easily attainable. Yielding to a common error, I resolutely resisted all offers of assistance on the part of the Arabs who accompanied us, but I had not scaled more than half-a-dozen of the lower steps, before I was glad to call three sturdy ruffians to my aid, one at either hand, and the other pushing behind.In this way we reached the half-way resting-place, which when viewed from the ground, appears close to the top. Here we halted a minute or two to take breath, and then again pushed upwards. The dexterity displayed by my guides was really wonderful, and although, as I used but little exertion myself, I must have taxed their assistance to the utmost, they never made a false step, nor paused to deliberate where they should plant their feet. Being early morning, the stones, which are breast-high, were slippery with the dew, and many an awkward stumble should I have made, but for the care of my faithful rear-guard, who hoisted me from one course to another, and over the sharp angles of the stones, with the greatest ease and good-will, putting out his knee or back as a stepping-place, whenever a block of unusual size presented itself.

Anon we reached the summit, an area of rather more than thirty feet square, and we now discovered that our toil had been thrown away, in-so-far as the enjoyment of an extended view was concerned. A thick mist obscured the distance, and left little to attract the eye, save the course of the Nile, and the tracts of land which were still under the influence of the inundation. These formed a silvery network, lighted up by the rising sun, and assisted the eye in embracing theenormous expanse of country commanded by our elevated position. Cairo lay as it were, close at hand, although obscured beyond the power of recognition by the misty vapours which rose from the river. On the south, the site of old Memphis and the adjacent Pyramids of Sakhara were distinctly visible. Whilst immediately beneath us, the two lesser Pyramids of Ghizeh towered upwards from the plain, from amid a confused jumble of tombs and ruins.

The uneven surface of the summit is completely covered with names and dates, each succeeding visitor deeming it necessary to leave some record behind him. This custom, which obtains more among the vulgar of our own nation, than with any other, is here adopted by travellers from all corners of the earth, and the renownedMezzofanti[14]himself, would feel at a loss to identify some of the outlandish characters which are cut in the crown of old Cheops.

As we rested ourselves, water was brought to us by Fellah children, who for the uncertain chance of obtaining a fewparas, will make the toilsome ascent of the Pyramid, in the wake of a party, laden with their drippinggoolahs. We found their offering sufficiently well-timed, for the sun wasnow high above the horizon, and blazed upon us with such right good will, that we were glad enough to commence our descent. This is not to be accomplished without much caution, as one unlucky slip might prove fatal, and therefore, the aid of the Arabs is again called into requisition. As we neared the bottom we turned off to the left, and reaching the opening which conducts to the interior of the Pyramid, we lit our candles, and consigned ourselves to the care of the guides.

It is difficult, without reference to sectional views, to form any clear idea of the construction of such of the interior as has been explored, but there are few who have not studied with interest, and must therefore remember, the description given by Belzoni, of his remarkable discoveries. One after the other, and stooping down to avoid the low roof, we threaded a passage of considerable extent, inclining gradually downwards. This seemed as if cut out of the solid rock, and presented a polished appearance, from the contact of innumerable shoulders and elbows. The dust raised by our feet, and the heat and smoke of the torches, annoyed us exceedingly, and nearly suffocated me, who happened to be one of the hindermost. Before long, we reached a more open space, where we could stand upright, and eventuallygained a chamber of large dimensions, which is supposed to be the very centre of the Pyramid. It contains a huge uncovered sarcophagus, long since rifled of its contents. The walls appeared perfectly black, coloured probably by the accumulated smoke of torches. Over this are four other chambers, access being only obtained to them by small steps of wood, let in at one of the angles of the wall. As many of these appeared to be wanting, whilst others were loose or broken, we retraced our steps without venturing to explore these upper regions.

On emerging again into daylight, we presented a ridiculous appearance: the heat had been so great, that the perspiration literally ran off us, streaking the soot that had been deposited upon our faces. Our clothes, too, were covered with dust, so that ourensemblepartook both of the miller and the sweep. Our guides now informed us that we had by no means seen all, and that a well, and sundry subterranean passages had still to be explored. I was already so nearly choked with the lack of air and the bad odours, that I declined their kind offer to bury me a second time, and left the honour to my companion, awaiting his reappearance on the shady side of the Pyramid. His torch, however, dropped before he had proceeded two hundredyards, and he and his guide were compelled to grope their way out again, as well as they could, without having seen anything.

As we approached our resting-place of the preceding night, we became aware, from the unwonted noise of many Arabs and donkeys, together with an occasional hearty laugh, echoing from the cavern below, that some arrival had taken place during our absence at the Pyramid. This proved to be the case, and we found a party of our countrymen very coolly commencing an attack upon the breakfast which had been prepared for ourselves, by old Selim. Being in no mood to put up with any unwelcomed interference, we ejected the new comers without ceremony, although we afterwards relented in their favour, on discovering that by some mistake, they had left Cairo almost unprovided. Hearing that two of their party intended going on as far as the Pyramids of Sakhara, I volunteered to bear them company, leaving my companions, to whom a two nights’ absence would have been inconvenient, to return again to Cairo.

Our breakfast over, we set to work to clean our guns, in readiness for any stray sport we might fall in with by the way. To a comparison of our various arms, succeeded theusual boast of their excellent qualities, each of course thinking his own gun the best. This led to a trial of skill, and a beer-bottle having been placed in a conspicuous position on a point of rock, we blazed away for a considerable time, without any visible effect, for as the shot was a long one, the bottle was only to be broken by being struck exactly in the centre. Old Selim had been silently watching us at our sport, and thinking that he might possibly like to take his turn with the rest, I offered him my carbine, a choiceWesley Richards. Pushing it from him with the greatest contempt, he dived into one of the caverns, and produced a curious-looking implement, eight feet long, like an enormous pea-shooter, the barrel being bound to the stock in a dozen or more places, with brass wire, and having a flint lock of most primitive workmanship. The appearance of both Selim and his weapon, was so veryoutrèand ridiculous, that we could not suppress our laughter, and as none of us could believe that such a tool would stand the shock of a charge of powder, we instinctively got away as far as possible, when we saw it deliberately poised in the act of taking aim. After an interval of profound silence, came the click of the old lock, and a slight flash, then another interval, and asharp report, the bottle, to all appearance, remained untouched, and in spite of the quiet, “fi fi,”[15]of the old man, we were about to indulge in a second laugh at his expense, when one of the donkey-boys brought it down from the rock, and we found two clean round holes in the very centre of the widest part just under the neck. Old Selim’s dexterity was rewarded with a full flask of good powder, one of the most acceptable offerings we could have made him.

FOOTNOTES:[13]One hundred and fifty feet above the level of the surrounding desert.[14]The learned Romish Cardinal, remarkable for his knowledge of languages, speaking and writing no less than twenty-one.[15]“It is, it is.”

[13]One hundred and fifty feet above the level of the surrounding desert.

[14]The learned Romish Cardinal, remarkable for his knowledge of languages, speaking and writing no less than twenty-one.

[15]“It is, it is.”

Back to Index Next