CHAPTER XVII.

THE ROMAN DOUANE—THE HOTEL CESARJ—MEDITATIONS—THE CAFFE GRECO—ITS OCCUPANTS—MORNING WALK—WINE CARTS—THE RUSPOLI—BELLAMY’S TOILET—PREPARATIONS FOR THE CERVARO—THE ROBING-ROOM—CHOICE OF A DRESS—THE LIVERY STABLE—PORTA MAGGIORE—THE TORRE DEI SCHIAVE—A GRAND REVIEW—THE QUARRIES—INCANTATION TO THE SYBIL—THE DINNER—RETURN TO ROME.

I could scarcely venture to believe, as I stepped out of the diligence in the court-yard of the dogana at Rome, that I had at length reached the spot, which of all others I had most wished to visit, the golden land of my earliest imaginations. My first impulse was to rush in the dark toSt.Peter’s, and I should possibly have acted upon it, had not a civil functionary belonging to the customs, suddenly dissipated my romance, by a request that I would hand out my keys and open mybaullo. After a loose inspection of my worldly effects, my new friend shouldered the portmanteau, and begged to know the place of my destination, a question somewhat difficult to answer, inasmuch as I was unacquainted with the name of any hotel, and for all Iknew, with any individual of my own species in the city. Seeing that I hesitated, mydouanierhinted that the “Cesarj” was at hand, where I might at least stay until I found one more suited to my taste. To the “Cesarj” therefore, we went. Arrived in my little bed-room,au quatriéme, and fatigued with the dusty journey in the diligence, I rang the bell and ordered some coffee. “We furnish nothing,” said my landlord, who had himself obeyed the summons, “but a bed and breakfast, and the house does not boast of a kitchen, but at the corner of the square hard by, the Signor will find a goodtrattoria.” The old adage of “when at Rome,” &c., occurred forcibly to my remembrance, and although somewhat disposed to grumble at a mode of treatment so unusual in a hotel, I groped my way out to the eating-house, resolving to seek a more hospitable roof on the morrow.

In the digestive interval which followed my meal, it occurred to me, that I might as well organize some plan for the best employment of the time I intended to devote to Rome and its neighbourhood, for at this time I had no idea that my stay would be so long protracted, as afterwards proved to be the case. That I ought, in fact, to look round at the various hotels, in the hope of falling in with thename of some quarantine acquaintance, or quondam fellow-traveller, who would bear me company, and give me the benefit of his experience. I have a peculiar aversion to thevalets de place, who infest large inns, and an antipathy also to being seen gaping about in a foreign town, with a rosy “Murray” in my hand, which, albeit thene plus ultraof hand-books, entails upon every unfortunate possessor who may appeal to it in the crowded highway, a host of petty annoyances, and in Italy more especially, stamps him at onceInglese, fair game for all kinds of imposition. Much of this might be avoided by the adoption of some less conspicuous binding: one of my friends, who had taken the precaution to ink his covers all over, attributed thereto the saving of some considerable quantity of petty cash, during a two months’ sojourn in Rome.

But to return. As I sat musing in thetrattoria, I recollected with much satisfaction, that an artistical friend, whose acquaintance I had made in Egypt, had mentioned a certain Caffé Greco, as a likely place to find him in, on my arrival in Rome, and as it was not much past seven, I resolved immediately to begin my inquiries. One of the waiters showed me the way to this retreat, which is in the Via Condotti, and appears a favourite place of resort of artistsof every nation. Making my way through a thick smoke to the bar or counter, I inquired if one Bellamy, an Englishman, were within, and was answered by an affirmative nod of the head, from a tall man engaged in filling, with black coffee, some two dozen or so of small cups. This operation, though simple enough, was performed with much dexterity by a rotatory motion of the arm, without breaking the continuous stream of liquid Mocha, which flowed from the enormous tin biggin. In accordance with the motion of the man’s head, which pointed to an inner room, I found myself in an atmosphere still denser than that I had just quitted, whilst my ears were assailed with a furious cross-fire of high Dutch. From this I emerged into a third room, where, though a smoker myself, I almost gasped for breath. Here I could see nothing whatever, save the light of a lamp suspended from the ceiling, which looked dim and red, like the sun on a foggy morning in London, but a rapid conversation in the mother-tongue, betokened the presence of sundry and divers of my countrymen, whose forms gradually developed themselves, in proportion as my eyes became accustomed to the atmosphere.

Touching the waiter, as he passed me in one of his journeys to and fro, I asked for coffee and a cigar, andproceeded at leisure to contemplate the group before me. Had it not been for the use of my native language, I should certainly not have guessed that I was in the company of Englishmen, inasmuch as they were for the most part, dressed in a costume varyingin toto, save as to the nether integuments, from any I had previously seen. The chief speaker, who seemed to be expatiating upon some article in Galignani, of which he held a copy in his hand, was shrouded, like the rest, in a loose paletôt of black velvet, partly open at the sleeves, and relieved by the least glimpse of Irish at the arms and collar. A handsome beard and moustache, black as the coat, left but little of his features visible, and their obscurity was still farther increased, by a black hat of felt, with a brim of extraordinary dimensions, slightly turned up in front, but partaking essentially of the form of a sou’-wester behind. The rest of the company were dressed pretty much in the same way, the countenance of each seeming to take its cast from the beard, of which there was a variety of all forms and colours. By the time I had made my observations, I discovered that my friend Bellamy was not of the party, and entering into conversation with some one near me, learned that he was not likely to make his appearance that evening. Having obtained thenumber of his address in the Via Felice, I paid my score and returned to the hotel, where I dreamed about black beards and broad-brimmed hats, till a late hour in the morning.

The sun was high, when I rose and threw open my window, and the blue sky and freshness of the air seemed so inviting, that I decided upon dispensing with my host’s promised breakfast, preferring rather to take my chance at some neighbouringcaffé. Leaving the inn, I shortly emerged into a square, that of the Colonna, and was more than half inclined to refresh myself with some of the cooling fruits and drinks, displayed around the fountain in front of the column, under tasty little arbours of evergreens. Now I entered the Corso, already filled with busy people passing to and fro, and noisy enough with its throng of jingling hackney carriages and wine carts. These latter are very picturesque looking vehicles, and the carrettieri seem perpetually under the influence of their own juicy freights, so lazily do they dangle their legs, and loll away their days, each under the shade of his own vine or fig-tree.

Sauntering onwards, I discovered the Caffé Ruspoli, once a palace, where, in a cool garden, amid lemon-trees and fountains, I enjoyed my cream and Galignani, and hadmoreover, the good fortune to make acquaintance with a countryman of the name of Savill, who, upon learning that I was a stranger in Rome, politely offered to shew me some of the most interesting parts of the city. My new friend wore the sombre dress of, and looked every inch an artist, and had already been several years resident in Rome, speaking its language with singular fluency. He seemed indeed, so thoroughlyau faitat all that was going on, that I hailed with pleasure the prospect of a more intimate acquaintance with him, and having finished our breakfast at the Ruspoli, we proceeded together to the lodgings of Bellamy in the Via Felice. The house in which our friend had taken up his quarters, was of great extent, and elegant external appearance, and I was rather disappointed, on ascending the first two portions of its well-like stone stair-case, to observe that each floor was subdivided into many small sets of chambers. To every door was attached the card of the occupant, though there was barely sufficient light for deciphering the faint microscopic italics of the present day. Our announcement of “amici,” at that belonging to Bellamy, was responded to by him in person, half-dressed in so odd a style, that he seemed in the act of rehearsing for a masquerade. He had managed to squeeze himself into apair of light blue pantaloons, garnished with a double row of bright steel buttons, whilst his legs were encased in enormous jack-boots, armed with long spurs. Seeing our look of surprise, he hastily completed his toilet with a somewhat tarnished lace jacket and courier’s cap, regarding himself at the same time with evident satisfaction, in a small glass upon the table.

Savill now appeared suddenly to remember what had hitherto unaccountably escaped him, that it wanted but two days to theCervaro Fest, or annual fête of the Roman artists, and I was speedily informed that my arrival in the Holy City at the present moment, was most opportune, inasmuch as I should be enabled to assist at that ceremony,—“We’ll go immediately,” said Bellamy, “and put your name down on the list, and can then make choice of a dress,” for it seemed pretty fully decided upon that I should go in costume. My scruples, on the score of not being sufficiently qualified to join the body were speedily set aside by the assurance that my entrance fee of five pauls, would effectually silence any questions that might be raised. Repairing, therefore, to the Caffé Greco, I was introduced to the president of the fête, a German artist of celebrity, who very politely informed me, upon receiving my contribution,that I was thereby entitled to as much wine and cold sausage as I could swallow in one day. The Germans appear the chief movers in the affair, and theCervaro Festoriginated with a few individuals of that nation, who, years gone by, had a custom of repairing annually to some ancient quarries in the neighbourhood of Rome, where, with their wine andsalame, they would pic-nic on the grass, and sing some of their native melodies, returning to the city at night-fall. By degrees, however, their party increased, and being joined by artists of other nations, eventually became so numerous, that it was deemed necessary to elect a president, and frame rules for the preservation of order. A club was also established in connexion with the Cervaro, called the Ponte Molle,[18]which held its meetings once a week, and now forms one of the most amusing of the attractions of modern Rome. But more of this hereafter.

On quitting the Caffé Greco, a walk of half-an-hour brought us to a species of robing-room, in the immediate neighbourhood of the Argentina theatre, where Carnival and stage costumes of every description are let out on hire.I found it difficult to make a selection, but at length, from among a heap of miscellaneous rubbish, managed to rescue a dress, which the meanest bog-trotter would have scorned to accept. So far gone indeed was it, that the shopman refused to make any charge for its hire, merely expressing a wish that I would return it if did not absolutely fall to pieces. It cost me a good two hours’ work in my bed-room, at the “Cesarj,” to sew on such buttons as were wanting, and stitch up some of the rents in the coat and knee-breeches, besides having to convert some old boots into a pair of high-lows, which, with the addition of a well-battered hat, imparted a very satisfactory degree of finish and reality to mytout ensemble. The waiter, who entered my room whilst I was rehearsing, seemed to imagine that I was some fellow in the act of plundering the hotel, for I had some difficulty in restraining him from giving the alarm. When satisfied of my identity, he burst into such an exaggerated fit of laughter, that I was quite convinced my appearance was all I intended.

The next day Bellamy accompanied me to the English livery-stables, as it was necessary that I should provide myself with some sort of a horse. My companions having previously picked out the best they could get, I found thatI must either put up with a wretched animal, discarded by the rest, or go on foot. As its appearance was not ill-suited to the character I had assumed, I paid an earnest of half-a-scudo to the ostler, and begged him to give the poor beast an extra feed or two, by way of fitting him to undergo a day’s work.

The following morning, that of April 27th, proved bright and sunshiny, although sundry suspicious-looking clouds, which floated across the small patch of blue sky commanded by my bed-room window, seemed to threaten an occasional shower. It was striking seven as I finished my toilet, and throwing my long bernous cloak over all, save the ragged hat, I soon reached the stables, where I found Bellamy waiting for me, already mounted. We halted for a few minutes at a small shop in the Via Felice, to swallow some coffee, and then made the best of our way outside the city-walls, to the Porta Maggiore, where a numerous crowd of idlers attested the presence of something out of the common way. As we came up, the president of the Cervaro, in the midst of a group of a hundred or more artists, was in the act of ascending his triumphal car, a four-wheeled waggon of the country, drawn by two milk-white oxen, and ornamented with evergreens, and appropriate banners and emblems.

We now formed into something like a procession, the president taking the lead, at a pace more suited to a funeral than an occasion of rejoicing. On getting into motion, thecoup d’œilwas extremely interesting, and of a very amusing character. It was with difficulty that we could get on at all, so hemmed in were we on all sides, by the crowds of Romans and country-people who had come to see us start. We made a sort of forced march to the Torre dei Schiavi, a ruined temple at a couple of stones’ throw from the road, and nearly three miles from the gates. Here we consigned our horses and donkeys to the care of some ragged urchins, who had purposely preceded us, and had just time to avail ourselves of the partial shelter afforded by the ruin, when a heavy shower came on. Until now, breakfast had been overlooked by the majority of us, so a quarter-cask of red wine was broached, and slices ofprosciutto, or uncooked ham, with hard-boiled eggs and salame, were handed round by certain of the artists, who had enrolled themselves as waiters for the day, thinking it on such occasions, by no means derogatory to wait upon the rest. The appointment, in fact, appears to be much coveted, probably either from the novelty attending “office,” or from the knowledge of a most convenient proximity to the provision-baskets. Cigarsand pipes were now kindled, and some of the Germans sang in unison an illustrative song, composed by the president, printed copies of it being at the same time handed round for such as chose to accept them.

The shower being now over, there was a grand review of the mounted forces, these on donkeys forming the front rank, with the horsemen behind. We were put through sundry evolutions, which were utterly confounded by the stupidity of the former, which sidled, backed, and turned tail, and caused the greatest confusion, whilst many of those on horseback got awkward falls, from the collisions that were continually taking place. My animal, which was so very lame, that he had appeared to possess only three legs when I left the stable, had, now that he was a little warmed, recovered the proper number. The unwonted bustle, and strange colours around him, had made him so wild and unruly, that I lost all command of the bridle, and unwillingly cut some extraordinary capers under the very nose of the president, who was issuing as gravely as he could, his orders of “recht,links,züzammen,” &c.[19]A sudden command of “vorwarts” seemed far more to his taste, as he instantly turned tail and bolted for the road, where he pulled up ofhis own accord. The others came up shortly after, and we then formed into something like order again.

As the cavalcade trotted along, I had leisure to scrutinize the various groups, and a more motley collection of outrè figures, I think I never saw. First, came a huge French gen-d’arme, on a most diminutive donkey, armed with a tin breast-plate and backpiece, and a long wooden sword, with which ever and anon he belaboured his unwilling beast. Next to him a Bedouin Arab with naked legs, followed by a nondescript in a cocked hat and a blouse. Now, a well-mounted Spanish grandee rushed past, resplendent with foil and tinsel, giving chase to a ragged Irishman, with tattered hat and uplifted shillelagh, whose manner of sitting his white pony, told of other things than the brush and pallette.

A half-hour’s gallop across the Campagna, after quitting the high road, brought us to the Grottoes of the Cervaro, or deserted quarries, from which the stones of the Coliseum were obtained. They form romantic caves, and serve admirably for the annual picture of the artists. The adjacent meadow was already dotted with parties, who had preceded us to witness our arrival: carriages were drawn up in a line, the horses untethered, as at a race-course,whilst locomotive wine stalls, with their ample flasks of sparklingrosso, and tables laden with coarse bread, and the never failing salame, added to the gaity of the scene. Giving our horses in charge to the ragamuffins in waiting, we followed our president in great solemnity, into one of the very darkest of the caves, where a sort of opening incantation to thegenus lociwas to be delivered. The cavern was speedily filled, and it was with some difficulty that I managed to secure a footing on the loose rubbish that partially filled the opening. In the back-ground was a large cauldron of burning spirit, which betrayed the extent of the cave, shedding a dull light upon the faces of the innermost spectators, and revealing the presence of many ladies. Silence being enjoined, the incantation, in German, was audibly and impressively read, and its conclusion followed up by a loud report as of thunder, when the spirit of the cave appeared, and stirring up the contents of the cauldron, suddenly vanished in a blue flame. And now broke upon the ear one of those delightful German melodies, at its commencement, low, searching, and solemn; but wild and gleeful at the end. The effect it produced was extraordinary, and not to be easily forgotten. A few startling sobs, were, ’ere half uttered, drowned in a loud hurrah,and in another minute, we had all dispersed in different directions to prepare for dinner.

For this part of the ceremony, an airy but covered portion of the quarry was selected, and the ground thickly strewed with fresh-gathered leaves, the benches and tables being rudely formed of loose masses of stone. Each man seated himself where he listed, and wine, and cold viands were plentifully supplied by the attendant ganymedes. Our repast was soon over, for our seats were none of the softest, and we were glad to rise as soon as etiquette would permit, and eat our salad standing. This was served, ready-made, and carried round in large trays, like those used by our butchers in London, and as no forks were allowed us, each man put in his hand, and helped himself to an oily mouthful as it passed him. Then followed speeches from the president and others, in honour of the occasion; some healths were drank and responded to, and the strangers present invited to partake; and then our leader, with a mallet and chisel, proceeded to record on the smooth face of a rock, already bearing the mementos of many former years, the date of the present “Olimpiade.” This seemed the signal for a general dispersion, and the whole body emerged into the sunny fields above, to amuse themselves as best theymight. All sorts of running and jumping matches were engaged in by such as felt inclined, and an extempore horse-race was got up by some of my countrymen, but as I did not care to place too much confidence in my (barely)four-footed acquaintance of a day, I tightened his girths, and took the road towards Rome, greatly amused by the “Cervaro.”

FOOTNOTES:[18]So called from the bridge over the Tiber, about a mile outside the Porta del Popolo.[19]“Right, left, together,” &c.

[18]So called from the bridge over the Tiber, about a mile outside the Porta del Popolo.

[19]“Right, left, together,” &c.

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