On leaving Mrs. Lafferty's, in the morning of the 18th, we descended about five miles, and stopped to breakfast at a Mr. Jones's. Rumor had pointed out this place as the locality of a tin-mine. The frontiersmen are greatly disposed to excite each other's imaginations by reports of mines and discoveries, every one of which is fancied to be some new Potosi or El Dorado. Our host was not backward in bringing to me some specimens of his supposed treasure. It consisted of several heavy lumps of the ore called, by mineralogists, iron glance. It had the usual color, great weight, and high metallic lustre. He represented it as occurring, in large bodies, about eight or ten miles north of his house, on high lands, at the surface.
We had proceeded some miles on our way, when a large black bear was discovered on the shore. It appeared to be about to plunge in for the purpose of crossing the river, when our presence alarmed it, and the animal, with its usual clumsy gait, betook himself to the woods again. The clumsiness of this animal's motions seems to be owing to the bluntness of its hind paws, which appear as if, we should suppose, it arose from re-curved legs. The Indians laugh at the gait of bruin. We had encountered this species several times before, and always, as on this occasion, found it disposed to flee.
Fifteen miles below Jones's cabin, we passed Harden's ferry, the house being on the right bank; and, two miles further on, we passed Morrison's ferry. Continuing our descent eight miles lower, we landed at a place called Poke Bayou, where we were hospitably received by a Mr. Robert Bean. The river had now become a magnificent body of water, still clear and beautiful. We were here within the boundaries of the Mississippi alluvions. No highlands are visible for some distance before reaching Harden's. The river winds through broad, fertile plains, bearing a most vigorous growth of forest trees. The banks are elevated some thirty feet above the water, and, as the stream increases in depth and strength, they becomesubject to be undermined by the flood. The cane, which is common to the river in its entire length, even to the highest elevations of the Ozarks, is here of a tall and most vigorous growth. It is this plant, I apprehend, more than any other feature, which gives an oriental cast to these alluvial tracts; and I was almost ready, at some points, where the growth concealed the trunks of the heavy forest, to see the hippopotamus and elephant display their clumsy forms. For these, however, we had the buffalo, the cougar, and the bear, whose crackling strength, as they passed through these reedy mazes, had, on more than one occasion during our rambles, reminded us of the great muscular power of these boasted objects of hunter skill and enterprise. Often had a fine dog, in the narrations of the hunters, paid the penalty of coming within the stroke of the latter; and we could sympathise with the loss of an animal, which is of the highest value in his pursuits. It is due to this class of men to say, that, however rough they are in their manners, we were uniformly received by them with a frank hospitality, which appears to be always a point of honor with them; nor did any of the number, to whom reward was proffered for entertainment, ever condescend to receive a cent for anything in the shape of food or lodging.
The point of our landing was at the crossing of the lower Arkansas road. About twelve or fourteen buildings of all sorts were clustered together, forming a small village, which is now called Batesville; being the only one which had been encountered since leaving Potosi.
[11]Treaty of 8th July, 1817. Vide Indian Treaties, p. 209.
[11]Treaty of 8th July, 1817. Vide Indian Treaties, p. 209.
ANCIENT SPOT OF DE SOTO'S CROSSING WHITE RIVER IN 1542—LAMENESS PRODUCED BY A FORMER INJURY—INCIDENTS OF THE JOURNEY TO THE ST. FRANCIS RIVER—DE SOTO'S ANCIENT MARCHES AND ADVENTURES ON THIS RIVER IN THE SEARCH AFTER GOLD—FOSSIL SALT—COPPER—THE ANCIENT RANGES OF THE BUFFALO.
ANCIENT SPOT OF DE SOTO'S CROSSING WHITE RIVER IN 1542—LAMENESS PRODUCED BY A FORMER INJURY—INCIDENTS OF THE JOURNEY TO THE ST. FRANCIS RIVER—DE SOTO'S ANCIENT MARCHES AND ADVENTURES ON THIS RIVER IN THE SEARCH AFTER GOLD—FOSSIL SALT—COPPER—THE ANCIENT RANGES OF THE BUFFALO.
I determined to quit the river at this point, and, after a night's rest, made the necessary arrangements.
There is almost a moral certainty that De Soto must have crossed the river above this place. The make of the land, and the custom of the Indians in choosing the best ground for a path to travel from village to village, would determine this. His position, after crossing the Mississippi at the mouth of the St. Francis, and reaching the high grounds of the latter, would lead the natives who were his guides to keep the elevated and dry ranges leading to the buffalo country, west; and he must have crossed the affluents of the Black and Currents rivers at a high point towards the Ozarks. The dry and open woods afforded the best ground for the march of his cavalry; and when he attempted to reach the salt and buffalo country from the region east of White river, the roughness of the country would lead him to the central points of that stream. It would be interesting, as a point of antiquarian interest, to know where the old Indian paths were located. The roads, in all parts of the country, were based on these. They led to the most practicable fords of rivers, they avoided swamps and boggy grounds, and evinced a thorough geographical knowledge of the conformation of the country.
To travel where De Soto had travelled, and where he had performed some of his heroic feats, had something pleasing, at least, in the association. Doubtless, had the first occupants of Upper Louisiana been as mindful of historical reminiscences as they were set on repeating his search for gold and silver mines, they might have been rewarded by finding some of the straggling bones of his broken-down Andalusian cavalry. The fragments of broken arms and trappings were yet, perhaps, concealed by the accumulated rank vegetable soil of Arkansas and Southern Missouri, whence the plough may at no distant day reveal them.
It was ten o'clock on the morning of the 19th, when, having made every necessary preparation, we left Mr. Bean's. I regretted the necessity of making a selection from my collection of minerals and geological specimens. We set out with great alacrity. For the first five miles, we passed over a level, fertile tract, with several plantations; the remaining thirteen miles were comparatively sterile and uneven, without settlements. We had passed about seventeen miles of the distance, when my right foot and ankle began to flinch. I was not sensible of any slip or sprain in walking, but rather believe it resulted from too much ardour and anxiety to get forward. I had, about four years previously, dislocated and injured the same ankle in leaping down a precipice in the Green mountains, having mistaken a granitical shelf of rock at its base, which was covered with autumnal leaves, for soft soil. I believe the suddenness and alacrity of this day's travel, after leaving the quietude of the canoe, had awakened a sympathy in the injured nerves. In a short time, the pain was unendurable. With great effort I walked a mile further, and reached a double log house, the mistress of which bathed the ankle with salt and water, and made other applications. Some alleviation, but no permanent relief, was obtained. I then laid down under the hope of being better, but awoke on the morning of the 20th with little or no abatement of the pain, and inflammation. A traveller on horseback, coming along that morning on a fine animal, agreed, for a small compensation, to let me ride to the south fork of Strawberry river, while he went afoot.This helped me over twelve miles of the road, where his path diverged; and I felt so much relieved by it, on dismounting, that I managed, by easy stages, to walk four miles farther, which brought us to the main river. The afternoon was not yet spent; but the pain of my ankle had returned before reaching the river, and I found it in vain to press forward, without adequate repose.
The next morning (21st), my travelling companion, who cared nothing for natural history or antiquities, and was urgent to push on, left me, and returned to St. Louis. Left alone, I felt, for a few moments, a sense of isolation; but I was now in a region where there was no longer any danger to be apprehended for the want of the first necessaries of life. My lameness required nothing, indeed, but perfect repose. The people were kind, and, when I ascertained that my hostess was a sister of one of the hunters who had guided me in the most remote parts of my wanderings in the Ozarks, there was a manifest point of sympathy.
I found by inquiry that there were appearances of a mineral deposit in this vicinity, which seemed to connect the hilly grounds of Strawberry river with similar indications which have been noticed near the Bull shoals, on White river. Appearances denote the existence of sulphuret of lead in the vicinity. The sulphate of barytes, calcareous spar, and white crystalline masses of quartz, characterize the uplands. When my foot and ankle would bear it, I proceeded by easy paces northward, going, the first day after leaving the Strawberry valley, ten miles, which brought me to a place called Dogwood Springs, so named from thecornus florida. The next day I went ten miles further, when I came to the banks of Spring river, where I was entertained by Major Haynes. Here I first saw cotton in the fields, being the unpulled bolls of the autumn crop, which had not been thought worth gathering.
Feeling no injury to result from these easy marches, which gave me time to examine the appearances of the surface, I ventured a little farther on the recovery of my ankle, and, the third day, went nineteen miles. In this distance I crossed thestream called Elevenpoints, a tributary to Spring river, and came, at a rather late hour in the evening, into a small valley called Foosh-e-da-maw, a popular corruption of the FrenchFourche à Thomas. It was quite dark when I applied for a night's lodging at a small cabin, being the only one I had encountered for many miles. The man and his wife, who were its only occupants, were manifestly not blessed with much of this world's goods; but they were kind, and, though they had already gone to bed, and had but one room, they permitted me to occupy a part of the floor. Spare bed they had none; but, had they possessed ever so many, I did not require one. Camping out under the open heavens so long, had created a habit which made it impossible for me to rest in a soft bed. I had declined one the night before, at Spring river, and thrown myself on a single blanket, on the hard puncheons. I wished to keep my nerves up to this tense state, and the hardy habits of the woodman, while I was compelled to foot my way, and take my chances for rough fare, for some time.
With the earliest gleams of light I was up, and walked four miles to breakfast. Twelve more brought me to Hicks's ferry, on a large stream called the Currents. I had camped on the source of this river, in the cliffs of the Ozarks, on my outward trip, and found the region remarkable for its large saltpetre caves. It was here a river of eight feet deep, and three hundred yards wide. At this spot I should have stopped; for, after going beyond it, I found the country was thinly settled, which compelled me to walk some time after nightfall, before I could find a house; and, on presenting myself, the man proved to be surly and gruff, and denied me lodging. It was evident to me, from words that passed, that his wife was expecting to be ill; and, as the house was small, there seemed some reason for his apparent unkindness. I had already come twenty-three miles; the night was dark, and threatened rain; and the next house distant. I should have been happy to exclaim, with the poet,
"Turn, gentle hermit of the dale, and guide my lonely way!"
but there was no gentle hermit in sight. It was clearly not a question of poetry, but was likely to be one of sober,down-right prose. I said to him, finally, after a look into the black darkness and desolate woods, that I would only claim my length on the floor, and, to give no uneasiness to his good lady, be off at the slightest intimation. He consented, and I laid down without receiving any notice of the lady's expected illness till morning, when I left my pallet at a very early hour. For three miles beyond, it was a rough region, through which it required daylight to pass, and where I must have lost my way in the dark, had I gone on, the night previously.
I stopped at a cottage for breakfast. It was occupied by a poor woman. Everything bore tokens of this fact. She appeared to have little in the way of eatables herself, but was very willing, in the article of breakfast, to share that little with me. I had passed the night before supperless, after a long day's walk, and the morning's air had further excited my appetite; still, I should have gone on, had another habitation been near at hand; but what the good woman wanted in means, she made up in readiness and hearty good-will; and, if the meal was not sumptuous, I arose as well satisfied as if I had breakfasted with a lord.
Thus refreshed, I went on ten miles, which brought me to the banks of Little Black river. Two miles beyond this stream, I stopped at the house of a Mr. Reeves, at an early hour in the afternoon, my ankle giving indications of returning lameness. Quiet, and a night's repose, had the effect to relieve these symptoms, and I was enabled cautiously to continue my journey the next day. Daylight was ever my signal for rising, and, by easy stages, I made seventeen miles during the day, walking early and late. The first six miles of this distance were made before I stopped for breakfast, and the next ten miles brought me to the ferry over Big Black river—a clear, rapid stream, which, in its progress to the south, is the recipient of all the before-mentioned streams, from the Strawberry river, north; and is itself, finally, a tributary of White river, maintaining through it a free navigation with the Mississippi. After crossing the ferry, I went about half a mile further, and took up my night's lodgings at a Mr. Bollinger's. I felt no further weakness of my foot and ankle, and was happy in thereflection that my cautious movements had been such as not to overtax the strength of my nerves. Indeed, from this point, (till 1830,) I experienced no further symptoms of lameness.
On the next morning (28th), I walked seven miles, and took breakfast at a Mr. Esty's, where I fell in with the old road, which had originally been laid, when the country came to be settled, on the ancient Indian path. The elevated lands between Black river and the St. Francis, had evidently been the line of march of De Soto, when (in 1541) he set forward from "Quiguate," on the St. Francis, toward the "north-west," in search of Coligoa. Any other course between west and south-west, would have involved his army in the lagoons, and deep and wide channel, of Black river, which forms a barrier for about one hundred and fifty miles toward the south; while this dividing ground, between the Black river and St. Francis, consists chiefly of dry pine lands and open uplands, offering every facility for the movements of his cavalry, which were ever the dread of the Indians.
The first Indian village which De Soto reached, after crossing the Mississippi—probably at the ancient Indian crossing-place at the lower Chickasaw bluffs—and pushing on through the low grounds, was on reaching the elevations of the St. Francis, immediately west of his point of landing. The place was called Casquin, or Casqui; a name which will be recognized as bearing a resemblance to one of the Illinois tribes, who have long been known under the name of Kaskaskias. From this place on the high lands of the St. Francis, he ascended that river, keeping the same side of its current, through a fine country, abounding in the pecan and mulberry, a distance of seven leagues, to the central position of the Casquins. Here it was, and not on the immediate banks of the Mississippi, that he erected a gigantic cross, formed out of a pine tree, which, after it was hewn, a hundred men could not lift.
From this place, after a rest of several days, he was led, by the wily chief, to march against the village and chief of Capaha, who was his hereditary enemy, and who had, in past encounters, proved himself more than his equal in prowess. De Sotowas caught in this trap, which had nearly proved fatal to his gallant army.
Descending the high grounds, evidently, towards the north-east, and crossing alluvial tracts, by a march of about six days he reached the enemy, well posted, strong in numbers, and of great bravery, on the pastoral elevations, which we are disposed to look for at the site of the modern Spanish town of New Madrid. Capaha took shelter on a thickly wooded island in the Mississippi river, where De Soto, assisted by his allies, attacked him in canoes, and from which his allies, and afterwards he himself, were glad to retreat. The chief was a most brave, energetic young man, and fought against his combined enemies with the spirit inspired by long acknowledged success. This place formed the extreme northern limit of De Soto's expedition on the line of the Mississippi, and must have been north of 35°. After this effort, he retraced his steps slowly back to Casqui.
The Kapahas, of whom the Sioux are ethnologically a branch, have occupied the west banks of the Mississippi, extending to the base of the Rocky mountains, as long as we have known that stream. They have been inveterate enemies of the whole Algonquin race, to which the Kaskaskias and Illinois belonged; and it is not improbable that they had, at this early day, not only encountered the Spaniards, but that, after their withdrawal, they fell on the Casquins, and drove them east of the Mississippi, into the country of the Illinois.
While De Soto was in the country of Capaha, he learned that about forty leagues distant, (west, it must needs have been,) there were, in the hill country, quantities of fossil salt, and also a yellowish metal, which he supposed to be gold. He despatched two trusty and intelligent men, with Indian guides and carriers, to procure samples. After an absence of eleven days, they returned, with six of the Indians laden with crystals of salt, and one of them with metallic copper. A hundred and twenty miles west of the supposed point of starting, would carry the messengers across the valley of White river, and far into the Ozark plains and elevations, between the south fork of that stream, and the north banks of the Arkansas—thesame region, in fine, mentioned, in a prior part of these sketches, as yielding those articles, on the authority of the experienced woodsman, Teen Friend. The country through which these messengers passed was sterile and thinly inhabited; but they reported it to be filled with herds of buffalo. These reports led him to march down the banks of the St. Francis, till he reached the village called Quiguate. From thence, having heard of a locality called Coligoa, where he thought there might be gold, he marched again north-west in search of it. This march, in which he followed a single Indian guide, must have led him to the foot of the rough, mountainous, granitic, and mineral region, at the sources of the St. Francis. But this search proved also a disappointment. He was informed that, six leagues north of Coligoa, the buffalo existed in vast herds; but that, if he would reach a rich province, he must march south. It is possible that, in this latitude, he may have, a little, exceeded the utmost point reached by him on the Mississippi; and he hence confined his adventurous marches to Southern Missouri and Arkansas.
Having taken the road again, after my halt at Esty's, I travelled diligently ten miles, at which distance I reached the ferry of Dr. Bettis, at the St. Francis. The scene was rural and picturesque, the river winding along in a deep and rapid bed, between elevated and fertile banks. From appearances, and old fields, it seemed altogether such a spot as might have answered the glowing Spanish descriptions of Casqui. The ferry was managed by a black man; and we cut an American half-dollar on the top of an oak stump, agreeably to the Kentucky mode, to adjust the ferriage. On landing on the north bank, I pursued my journey six miles farther, to one Smith's. It was now the 28th of January, and the weather so mild, that I this day found the witch-hazel in bloom.
PROCEED NORTH—INCIDENTS OF THE ROUTE—A SEVERE TEMPEST OF RAIN, WHICH SWELLS THE STREAM—CHANGE IN THE GEOLOGY OF THE COUNTRY—THE ANCIENT COLIGOA OF DE SOTO—A PRIMITIVE AND MINERAL REGION—ST. MICHAEL—MINE A LA MOTTE—WADE THROUGH WOLF CREEK—A DESERTED HOUSE—CROSS GRAND RIVER—RETURN TO POTOSI.
PROCEED NORTH—INCIDENTS OF THE ROUTE—A SEVERE TEMPEST OF RAIN, WHICH SWELLS THE STREAM—CHANGE IN THE GEOLOGY OF THE COUNTRY—THE ANCIENT COLIGOA OF DE SOTO—A PRIMITIVE AND MINERAL REGION—ST. MICHAEL—MINE A LA MOTTE—WADE THROUGH WOLF CREEK—A DESERTED HOUSE—CROSS GRAND RIVER—RETURN TO POTOSI.
I left my night's quarters before daylight was fairly developed. The sky was, indeed, heavily overcast, and it soon commenced raining. Expecting to find a house at no great distance, I kept on, the rain at the same time assuming a more settled form, and falling with steadiness. It was seven miles before I reached shelter (Swaim's). I was thoroughly wetted, and, the storm continuing without abatement, I remained until the next morning. The atmosphere was then clear, and the sun rose pleasantly; but the roads were a perfect quagmire. An immense body of rain had fallen. Every little rivulet roared as if it were a torrent that was out of all patience to deliver its quantum of water to the swollen St. Francis. The ground was perfectly saturated with water; but I picked my way four miles to breakfast. It had been my intention to cross the St. Francis, and take the route through Caledonia to Potosi; but after travelling sixteen miles towards the north-west, and reaching the fords, I found them too much swollen to make the attempt.
After crossing the St. Francis, towards the north, there are strong indications of a change in the geological structure of the country. The horizontal limestone and sandstone series still continue for a distance; but they are covered with large blocks of sienite and granite. What is remarkable in theseblocks, is their angular character, which denotes that they have not been carried far south of their original beds. These blocks increase in frequency and size as we approach the primitive highlands of the St. Francis. And I at length stood, gazing at these rough, red, crystalline peaks, and high orbicular knobs, which reach up from beneath and through the calcareous and sedimentary series, without having lifted up the latter into inclined positions, or in the least disturbing their horizontality—a proof of their priority of position.
I passed the night near the fords, at a farmer's; and finding it impossible, the next morning, to pursue this route, or to get a boat or canoe to cross the river, obtained directions for making my way north-eastwardly, towards St. Michael's. I was now in the probable region of De Soto's Coligoa, the utmost north-westwardly point of his explorations. And it ceased to be a matter of surprise that the Indians had given him such wonderful accounts of the mineral wealth of the sources of the St. Francis. The white inhabitants, at this day, have similar notions. They perceive such an unusual geological display before and around them, that they suppose it indicates mineral treasures. There are stories afloat of all kinds of mineral discoveries—not of gold, indeed, which was De Soto's search, but of tin, lead, copper, iron, cobalt, and antimony. The iron mountains of Bellevieu, so called, are part of this development. At a place called the Narrows, the river rushes between alpine peaks of sienite and black hornblende rock, which lies in huge and confused heaps, plainly indicating ancient volcanic action. I had examined this region, with minuteness, the previous summer, in an excursion through the southern limits of the lead-mines, and now revisited some of the points, respecting which, my curiosity was unsatisfied. I wandered among these attractive peaks about ten miles, and slept at a house (Burdett's), to the occupant of which, I had carried a letter of introduction the year before.
The next day (Feb. 1) proved rainy; but I took advantage of intervals in the weather to advance on my general course about three miles. The sky, the next morning, was still cloudy, dark, and unsettled. When it indicated signs ofclearing up, I was advised of another ford of the St. Francis, at a higher point; and I proceeded a part of the way to reach it; but accounts discouraged me, and I bent my steps to the village of St. Michael. Two miles north of this, I came to the noted lead-mine of La Motte, the most southerly in position of the Missouri circle of mines. At this place, they raised large tubular masses of lead-ore, from its position in the red, marly clay. The slags drawn from the ash-furnace denoted, by the intensity of their blue color, its connexion with the oxide of cobalt. Ten miles beyond these mines, after passing an uninhabited tract, I entered Cook's settlement, where I slept.
Next day, I was again in motion at early dawn. The effects of the late copious rains were still an impediment to travelling; but I experienced no further symptoms of lameness, and felt the desire to press on, increasing in proportion as I drew near my starting-point in the prior autumn. I felt that I had succeeded in the accomplishment of a trip of some peril, through a noted mountainous range, into which all but one of my original party had failed to accompany me, and my guides had deserted me at a moment of peculiar peril. It was also true that my only companion had rather abruptly left me, when taken lame on the road. I could not, as I approached the spot of organizing my party for this exploration, help feeling a degree of buoyancy of spirits, while returning to it, in the hope of again meeting familiar acquaintances face to face.
Under this impulse, and with the high health produced by daily exercise, I travelled ten miles on the following day. On reaching Wolf creek, it was found to be filled to overflowing. It was already dark; and a ruinous, tenantless house, with the doors and windows standing open, was the only object that presented itself on the opposite bank. Horse or canoe, there was none; but there could be no hesitation in attempting to cross it. The waters, in the deepest parts of the channel, reached to my breast. I came out, of course, dripping; it was still two miles to the next house, and, casting furtive glances at the masses of darkness in the deserted dwelling, and with a path muddy and indistinct, I hurried on to the point of my destination.
It was the 4th of February when I crossed Big river, the Grande river of the days of Crozat and the financier Law. I was carried across it in the ferry-boat, and took my way over the sylvan, long, sweeping mineral hills, which stretch toward Potosi, entering that busy town at a seasonable hour, having travelled fifteen miles. The first acquaintance I encountered, on reaching within a few miles of it, was a Major Hawkins—a surveyor, an old resident, and a good woodsman, who, cordially extending his hand to welcome my return, exclaimed, "I thought the Indians or the wolves had long ago eaten you up." This was the first intimation I received that there had been any temerity in the plan for this expedition.
Potosi was now selected as the place for drawing up an account of the mines, and the mineralogical productions and resources, of the country—a memoir on which, was published at New York in the autumn of this year (1819), and which is inserted, in a revised form, in the Appendix to these sketches.
TWO LETTERS ADDRESSED TO THE HON. J. B. THOMAS, U. S. SENATE, WASHINGTON.
I.
Potosi, Missouri, Feb. 9th, 1819.
Sir: I beg leave to address you on the subject of my recent expedition into the Ozark region. When I was at your house at Cahokia, I mentioned to you my design of making a tour into the interior of the Territory. I have just returned from the excursion. Two persons were associated with me in the enterprise; but one of them, our mutual friend, Mr. Brigham, was compelled by illness to relinquish the journey, and return, after he had reached Potosi.
We proceeded in a south-west direction, which carried us across the sources of the Maramec and Gasconade. We then entered on the elevated highlands, which alternately pour their waters into the Missouri and Mississippi rivers, reaching, in their development, to the Washita river. Through this rough alpine range, the Arkansas, rising in the Rocky mountains, penetrates, and is the only river that completely separates the chain. Our explorations were confined to the region lying on its northern banks. Winter overtook us on the sources of the White river, giving us a few days of severe weather, but offering, generally, no impediment to travelling. There is much that is most striking and picturesque in the scenery of this region, and not less in its productions and physical character. Nowhere, probably, on the globe, is there such a remarkable succession of limestone caverns, and large, transparent springs. At several places, large brooks flow abruptly out of crevices in the rock; and at one place, a flowing stream, Spring river, thus originates. We found the ores of lead, iron, and manganese, in large bodies. The high uplands are often rent by precipitous valleys and large chasms, caused by the force of these streams. These valleys are well wooded, and contain the richest soil. And this broad region must at no distant day attractsettlement, and will afford facilities for agriculture and mining, while its abundant water-power gives it great advantages for milling and manufactures.
The country is a continuation of the limestone and sandstone formations of the west banks of the Mississippi. The number and extent of the caverns in this formation, is, indeed, remarkable. They yield saltpetre earth, wherever they have been explored. Nitrate of potash has been manufactured in some of these caves, and transported across the wilderness for eighty miles; and a valuable traffic in this article may be established. In the district between the head-waters of White river and the Arkansas, salt is found, in a crystallized state, in the prairies. The region is still occupied by herds of the buffalo, elk, deer, and by the bear, and smaller animals of the latitude, which renders it an attractive country to hunters and trappers.
The Osage Indians, who inhabit it, are the cause of fear and alarm to this class; but it did not appear to us, from the sparse numbers of the Indians, and the periodical flying visits they are in the habit of making the eastern and northern parts of it, that there is ground of permanent apprehension from this source. The policy of locating the Cherokees on the north banks of the Arkansas, may well be questioned; and I have heard this arrangement much spoken against.
Indeed, the agricultural value of the country has been much underrated. Independent of the mineral discoveries mentioned, the arable lands of the Ozark summit-level constitute one of the richest and most beautiful districts in the Territory. The high grass and flowers which cover the prairie-lands, impart the most sylvan aspect to the scene. Springs of the purest water abound, and, by avoiding the chasms, the country is susceptible of being traversed by roads. It only requires to be better known, to attract the notice of emigrants, and will some day bear a great population. I do not doubt that the high road from St. Louis to Fort Smith will probably cross this tract of country. Such a route must greatly shorten the distance.
I cannot refer you to a correct map of the country, and therefore enclose you a sketch, explanatory of my route. From a conversation with Mr. Brigham, I cannot mistake your friendly influence in these explorations. I am desirous to extend them to other parts of the frontiers. I understand that the Secretary of War entertains enlarged and enlightened views on the subject. I should be pleased to be employed in this branch of the public service.
I am, with respect, your ob't serv't,Henry R. Schoolcraft.
II.
Potosi, Feb. 15th, 1819.
Sir: I had the honor, on the 9th instant, to address you on the subject of my journey into the region of the Ozarks. You will allow me again to trouble you on the subject of explorations.
Government has long been acquainted, by reports, with the existence of native copper on the Upper Mississippi, and the banks of lake Superior. I believe the attempt was made about 1798, to have the localities explored. I know not what success attended that attempt. Probably the remoteness of the country, and the hostility of the Indian tribes, were unfavorable. But I am persuaded that the object is one of importance.
The mineralogy of those regions became the topic of early interest, even in the days of the French supremacy. Copper appears to characterize an extensive area. It is stated to break out in the immediate vicinity of St. Anthony's falls, and to continue through to the southern shores of lake Superior. In its exploration, other traits of the natural history of the country would be developed.
The establishment of a military post at St. Anthony's falls, renders the present a favorable time for exploring the region. Its features and resources are objects of deep interest; and it appears to be the policy of the government, in the disposition of its western and northern posts, to prepare the way for ascertaining these traits at the earliest period. The position of the most advanced posts which are now in the process of location, is such as to afford great facilities for exploration. The hostilities of the Indians are repressed, and a survey of these parts of the public domain could now be effected with comparative safety, and at little expense.
Should you think the appointment of an agent for this purpose, to accompany some of the military movements, would be favorably received by the Secretary of War, may I indulge the hope that, in recommending it, you will remember me in the premises?
I am, with respect, your ob't serv't,Henry R. Schoolcraft.
LIST OF PAPERS.
A. MINERALOGY, GEOLOGY, AND MINES.1.A View of the Lead-Mines of Missouri.2.A Catalogue of the Minerals of the Mississippi Valley.3.Mineral Resources of the Western Country. A Letter to Gen. C. G. Haines.B. GEOGRAPHY.1.Missouri.2.Hot Springs of Washita.3.Memoir of White River.4.List of Steamboats on the Mississippi River in 1819.C. ANTIQUITIES AND INDIAN HISTORY.1.Articles of curious workmanship found in ancient Indian Graves.2.Ancient Indian Cemetery found in the Maramec Valley.
When we reflect on the history of our own country—its advance in arts, commerce, and agriculture, and the rapidity with which its population has increased, and its resources been developed—the mind is with difficulty brought to believe that all this has taken place within a comparatively short period. These developments are particularly striking in the region west of the Alleghany mountains. A new world has, as it were, been discovered in the Mississippi valley, which, under the strong impulse of emigration, has been transformed, as if by superhuman exertions. No sooner had its great fertility and productiveness become known, than a universal desire for correct information sprang up. Our first travellers in that region did little more, however, than glance at its most obvious and grand features; and with respect to some topics, such as its antiquities and natural history, these notices have had the effect rather to stimulate, than to gratify curiosity.
But, whatever information has been published respecting the country, its mineralogy and geology have remained wholly unnoticed. The mines of Missouri, especially, have failed to attract the consideration which they merit. To supply this deficiency, I have written the following memoir. It is the result of no ordinary degree of opportunity of observation upon the particular mines, and their geological position in the great metalliferous limestone formation west of the Mississippi. Besides visiting the principal mines, and traversingthe country thoroughly, to ascertain the character and value of its mineral resources and geological developments, I made an exploratory tour through the broad and elevated region of the Ozarks, lying west and south of this celebrated tract, extending into the Territory of Arkansas. If, therefore, I have failed to collect a body of facts sufficient to impress the reader with a sense of the extent, value, and importance of the country, and particularly of its mines and minerals, it can hardly be ascribed to a want of opportunity, or, indeed, of assiduity in the study or arrangement of my facts.
The historical data here recorded, respecting Renault's operations, have never, I believe, appeared in print. They were elicited in the course of a legal investigation, instituted between the heirs-at-law of Renault, the agent of Crozat, in 1723, and sundry individuals, who claimed the same grants on the authority of a date subsequent to the transfer of Louisiana to the United States.
The drawings I give of the lead-furnaces which are peculiar to that section of country, are from actual measurement, done under the eye of an operative smelter of approved skill at Potosi, and are conceived to be minutely correct.
Henry R. Schoolcraft.
New York, Nov. 25, 1819.
In republishing this memoir, advantage has been taken of several judicious suggestions respecting it, made in a critical notice of it, by the able editor of the American Journal of Science, in the volume of that work for 1821.
H. R. S.
Washington, Jan. 20, 1853.
SECTION I.
HISTORICAL SKETCH OF THE MINES.
The rage for adventure, which the brilliant exploits of Cortez, Pizarro, and other Spanish adventurers, had excited throughout Europe, continued for a long time to agitate the public mind, and had not abated at the commencement of the eighteenth century, when an idea of the mineral riches of Louisiana had become prevalent. Gold and silver were then the chief objects which engrossed attention; and in search of them, the earliest discoverers were led to penetrate into the interior. The physical aspect of the country was in general such as to flatter the most sanguine expectations of mineral wealth; and the further the country became known, the more interesting was found its mineralogical character. To men whose preconceived ideas of a country were already high, such appearances must have had the most inspiriting effect, and lightened the embarrassments they encountered in exploring a wilderness. Many of the useful metals were thus met with, and gold and silver mines were reported to have been discovered in several places. Red river, the Arkansas, and the river La Platte of the Missouri, were particularly mentioned; and from the evidence which is afforded by the discovery of ancient furnaces, &c., there is reason to conclude that those metals were wrought at a very early period. Judging from appearances, they were ready to conclude the country exhaustless in mines; and the most exaggerated accounts of them appear to have been transmitted to Europe, particularly to France, where a lively interest was felt in the prosperity of the infant colonies in Louisiana and Illinois; and in the descriptions published at that day, the lands are reputed to equal in fertility the banks of the Nile, and the mountains to vie with the wealth of Peru.
It was in this supposition of the immense wealth of Louisiana, both in the vegetable and mineral kingdoms, that the renowned Mississippi scheme originated, which, from the imposing character it was made to assume under the guidance and direction of M. Law, drew upon it theeyes, not only of France, but of all Europe, and produced one of the most memorable disappointments recorded in the annals of commercial speculation.
Louis XIV., by letters patent, bearing date September 14th, A. D. 1712, granted to Anthony Crozat, Counsellor of State, Secretary of the Household, &c., the exclusive privilege of commerce of that district of country, now known as the States of Louisiana, Mississippi, Tennessee, and Illinois, and the Territories of Missouri and Arkansas, with the proprietary right of the mines and minerals he should discover in the country, reserving the fifth part of all bullion of gold and silver, and the one-tenth of the produce of all other mines. The exclusive privilege of commerce was granted for a term of fifteen years; but the right of the mines was conveyed in perpetuity to him and his heirs, on the condition that such mines and minerals should revert back to the crown of France, whenever the working of them was discontinued for three years together. The bounds of Louisiana, as granted to Crozat, are described in these words: "Bounded by New Mexico, (on the west,) and by the lands of the English of Carolina, (on the east,) including all the establishments, ports, havens, rivers, and principally the port and haven of the Isle of Dauphine, heretofore called Massaerè; the river of St. Louis, heretofore called Mississippi, from the edge of the sea as far as the Illinois; together with the river of St. Philip, heretofore called Ouabache (Wabash); with all the countries, territories, lakes within land, and the rivers which fall directly or indirectly into that part of the river of St. Louis."
In the month of August, A. D. 1717, M. Crozat solicited permission to retrocede to the crown his privilege of the exclusive commerce and the mines of Louisiana, which was granted by an arret of the Council of State, during the minority of Louis XV. In the same month, letters patent were granted by the Council of the Regency to an association of individuals at Paris, under the name of "The Company of the West," by which they were invested with the exclusive privilege of the commerce of Louisiana, and the working of the mines, to the same extent as it was enjoyed under the grant of Crozat. These letters patent were dated on the 23d of August, A. D. 1717, registered 6th September of the same year, and were to be in force on the 1st of January, 1718, and to continue for a period of twenty-five years. By them, not only such grants and privileges were conveyed as had previously been enjoyed by Crozat; but they were invested with additional powers, rights, and privileges. The territory was granted in free allodium, (en franc allieu,) in lordship and injustice, the crown reserving to itself no other rights or duties but those of fealty and liege homage, which the company was required to pay to the king, and to his successors at each mutation of kings, with a crown of gold of the weight of thirty marks. The boundaries were the same as described in the grant to Crozat; and the mines and mining grounds, opened or discovered during the term of its privilege, were declared to belong to thecompany incommutably, without being holden to pay any rents or proceeds whatever. The company was also invested with the right to sell and alienate the lands of its concession, at whatever price or rents they might fix, and even to grant themen franc allieu, without reserving the rights of justice or lordship. It was also provided, that if, after the expiration of the twenty-five years for which the exclusive privilege of commerce was granted, the king should not see proper to continue the privilege by a new grant, all the lands and islands, mines, and mining grounds, which the Company of the West should have inhabited, worked, improved, or disposed of on rent, or any valuable consideration whatever, should remain to it for ever in fee simple, to use and dispose of as a proper inheritance, on the simple condition that the company should never sell such lands to any other than the subjects of France.
A company incorporated with such ample rights and privileges, did not fail to draw upon it the attention of the speculative, or to enlist the aid of the enterprising capitalists of the French metropolis. The country of the Illinois was reputed rich beyond comparison: the financial estimates submitted to the view of the public, offered prospects of unusual gain, and capitalists flocked with avidity from all quarters to enrol themselves as members of the company, and partake of the promised wealth. If anything had been wanting to accelerate the pace of adventurers, or to fan the ardor of hope, it was the genius, the financial abilities, and the commanding influence of M. Law, who was placed at the head of the company, and was the moving power in every transaction. Hence, it is no subject for surprise that the most extravagant anticipations were entertained by the members of the Company of the West, or that the unusual splendor of the Mississippi scheme was only equalled by the signal disappointment in which it eventuated.
In the year after the Company of the West had been instituted by the royal patent of the king, they formed an establishment in the country of the Illinois, at fort Chartres; and in order to promote the objects of their institution, and to encourage the settlement of the country, held out the most liberal inducements to French emigrants, and made them donations of all lands which they should cultivate or improve. Miners and mechanics were also encouraged to emigrate; and the city of New Orleans, which had been founded during the last year of the authority of Crozat (1717), received a considerable accession to its population in the fall of the same year, and settlements began to extend along the banks of the Mississippi, and in the country of the Illinois.
Among the number of adventurers to Illinois, was Philip Francis Renault, (the son of Philip Renault, a noted iron-founder at Consobre, near to Mauberge, in France,) who came over as the agent of the Company of St. Phillips, an association of individuals which had been formed under the patronage of the western company, for prosecuting the mining business in the upper country of Louisiana and Illinois. It appears alsothat he was a member of the Company of the West, and he is spoken of as "Director-General of the mines of the Royal Company in Illinois;" a name by which not only the present State of Illinois, but a vast district of the adjoining country, appears then to have been known.
Renault left France in the year 1719, with two hundred artificers and miners, provided with tools, and whatever else was necessary for carrying the objects of the company into effect. In his passage he touched at the island of St. Domingo, and purchased five hundred slaves for working the mines; and, entering the Mississippi, pursued his voyage up that river to New Orleans, which he reached some time in the year 1720, and soon afterwards proceeded on his way to Kaskaskia, in Illinois. Kaskaskia was then inhabited solely by the French, and was one of the earliest posts occupied by them when they began to extend themselves from Canada, along the great western lakes, and down the Ohio and Mississippi. Renault established himself in the vicinity of this town, near fort Chartres, at a spot which he named St. Phillips, (now called the Little Village,) and from this sent out his mining and exploring parties into various sections of Illinois and Louisiana. These parties were either headed by himself, or by M. La Motte; an agent versed in the knowledge of minerals, whom he had brought over with him. In one of the earliest of these excursions La Motte discovered the lead-mines on the St. Francis, which bear his name; and, at a subsequent period, Renault made the discovery of those extensive mines north of Potosi, which continue to be called after him. Other mines of lead were also found, but their distinctive appellations have not survived; and a proof of the diligence with which Renault prosecuted the object, is furnished by the number and extent of the old diggings which are yet found in various parts of the country. These diggings are scattered over the whole mine country; and hardly a season passes, in which some antique works, overgrown with brush and trees, are not found.
Renault, being probably disappointed in the high expectations he had formed of finding gold and silver, turned his whole force towards the smelting of lead; and there is reason to conclude that very great quantities were made. It was conveyed from the interior on pack-horses (the only mode of transportation which was practicable at that early period). The lead made by Renault was sent to New Orleans, and thence chiefly shipped for France. That he also discovered copper, is probable, as a grant of land made to him at Old Peoria, on the Illinois river, embraces a copper-mine.
Renault's operations were, however, retarded and checked, from a quarter where it was least expected. By an edict of the king, made at Paris, in May, 1719, the Company of the West was united to the East India and Chinese Company, under the title of the Company Royal of the Indies (La Compagnie Royale des Indies). And in 1731, the whole territory was retroceded to the crown of France, the objects of the companyhaving totally failed; and Renault was left in America, without the means of prosecuting the shining business. His exertions in behalf of the company were not, however, overlooked by the government, and four several grants of land were made to him in consideration of his services. These grants bear date June 14th, A. D. 1723, and cover the Mine La Motte, and some other very valuable tracts, which, after having laid dormant for a period of about sixty years, have recently been claimed by the representatives of his heirs-at-law.
Renault, however, remained in Illinois several years after the explosion of the Mississippi scheme, and did not return to his native country until 1742. With him the greater part of his workmen returned; the slaves were sold, and the mining business fell into neglect. Here is a period to the first attempt at mining in Louisiana. The country was ceded to Spain in 1762, and taken possession of in 1769.
After Renault's departure, little or nothing appears to have been done in the way of mining; and, even after the Spanish had taken possession of the country, the lead-mines were but little attended to. The force which Renault had with him was sufficient to protect him from the attacks of the savages; but, after his departure, the settlements on the Mississippi, feeble in themselves, could not furnish protection to such as might be disposed to work at the mines. The Spanish, however, in a few years after taking possession of the country, did something; and in process of time new discoveries were made, and the mining business began to assume a more respectable character. The principal discovery made under the Spanish authority was that of Mine à Burton, which takes its name from a person of the name of Burton, or Le Breton,[12]who, being out on a huntin that quarter, found the ore lying on the surface of the ground. This man, who is still living in the vicinity of St. Genevieve, at the advanced age of one hundred and nine years, had been employed while a youth under Renault. The period of this discovery it would be very difficult now to ascertain, Burton himself being unable to fix it. It has probably been known about forty years.
The processes of mining pursued under the Spanish government appear to have been very rude and imperfect, not more than fifty per cent. of lead being got from the ore. The common open log furnace was the only one employed, and the lead-ashes were thrown by as useless.
In 1797, Moses Austin, Esq., performed a journey from the lead-mines in Wythe county, Virginia, to the Mine à Burton, in Louisiana, and obtained a grant of land one league square, from the Spanish authorities, in consideration of erecting a reverberatory furnace, and other works, for prosecuting the mining business at those mines. This he commenced in 1798, previous to which time no furnace for smelting the ashes of lead had been erected. Mr. Austin sunk the first regular shaft for raising the ore, and introduced some other improvements which were found beneficial. He also, in 1799, erected a shot-tower, in which patent shot of an approved quality were made. A manufactory of sheet-lead was completed during the same year, and the Spanish arsenals at New Orleans and Havana drew a considerable part of the supplies for their navy from this source.
About this time, a few other American families crossed over into Louisiana Territory, and settled in the neighborhood of the mines. These, from their more enlightened and enterprising spirit, were an acquisition to the mining interest; and as their earliest attention was directed to it, the lead business began to revive; and at the time the Territory was taken possession of by the United States, the mines were extensively and advantageously worked.[13]The Mine à Robino, Mine à Martin, and many others, were shortly afterwards discovered. Since the year 1804, the number of mines has been astonishingly multiplied; Shibboleth, New Diggings, Lebaum's, and Bryan's mines, are among the latest discoveries of consequence.
The lead-mines did not fail to attract the earliest attention of the American government; and, immediately after the occupation of the Territory, measures were taken to ascertain their situation, the methodof working them, &c. Several laws have since been enacted on the subject, and a reservation made of all discoveries upon public lands.
The emigration to Louisiana, which had partially commenced under the Spanish government, took a more decided character after the cession of the country to the United States, but has been particularly great within the last few years.
In 1812, that part of Louisiana bordering on the gulf of Mexico, including New Orleans, and extending up the Mississippi to 33° north latitude, was erected into a State under the name of Louisiana, and the remainder formed into a territorial government by the name of Missouri. There is a petition now before Congress (Feb. 1819) for the admission of Missouri into the Union on a footing with the original States. By this petition it is contemplated that White river will form the southern boundary; and the country between that and the northern line of Louisiana, including our claims on the Spanish, will be erected into a territorial government, under the name of Arkansas.[14]
Respecting the present state of the lead-mines, it is only necessary here to add, that they are worked in a more improved manner than at any former period; that they are more extensive than when the country came into the hands of the United States, and of course give employment to a greater number of miners, while every season is adding to the number of mines; and that the ores may be considered of the richest kind. Every day is developing to us the resources of this country in minerals, and particularly in lead; and we cannot resist the belief that, in riches and extent, the mines of Missouri are paralleled by no other mineral district. In working the mines, in raising and smelting the ore, and in the establishment of the different manufactures dependent upon it, there is much to be done. Though the processes now pursued are greatly superior to those in use under the French and Spanish governments, there is still ample room for improvement. The earth has not yet been penetrated over eighty feet! We know not what may be found in the lower strata of the soil. There is reason to believe that the main bodies of ore have not yet been hit upon; that they lie deeper, and that we have thus far only been engaged upon the spurs and detached masses. There is also reason to believe that bodies of the ores of zinc exist in the district of the mines, and that copper will be afforded by the lower strata of earth. It is found overlaid by lead-ores in many of the European mines; and the geognostic character of the country leads us to conclude that it may also be found here.
The want of capitalists in the mine country, and of practical skill in the boring, blasting, sinking shafts and galleries, oppose obstacles to thesuccessful progress of mining. There is but one regular hearth-furnace for smelting in the whole district; and that is on the modern plan of English furnaces. There are not over four or five regular shafts in about forty mines; there is not an engine, either by horse, steam, or water power, for removing water from the mines, several of which have been abandoned on this account, with rich prospects of ore in view. In fine, there is little of that system which characterizes the best-conducted European mines, and which, by an application of the most recent discoveries in mechanics, chemistry, and philosophy, render them the admiration of every intelligent visiter. Should the subject attract the attention of mining capitalists, the circumstance would form a new era in the history of the mining operations of this country. Something also remains to be done by the government; the existing laws are inadequate to the purposes for which they were enacted. That feature restricting leases to three years, is injudicious; the period is so short, that it deters those who are most able from engaging in it at all. It is desirable that such a system should be established as would indicate the annual produce of the mines, number of hands employed, and such other facts as are necessary in forming a series of statistical tables on the subject. The want of such data has hitherto prevented us from properly estimating the importance of the mines in a national point of view. The acquisition of a scientific knowledge of minerals should also be facilitated in this quarter. There should be a mineralogical school located in the country, where students might be instructed in that useful science. In a country so rich in minerals, and whose wealth will always so much depend upon a proper development of these resources, the knowledge of mineralogy should be laid open to every one, and should be within the reach of such as do not wish, or cannot get, the other branches of a liberal education. To obtain this knowledge now, a person would be compelled to travel to remote parts of the Union, and to incur an unreasonable expense. No one who is conversant with the advantages which Germany has derived from such a seminary, will deny the utility of a similar one in the United States.
Yet, with all the disadvantages under which the lead-mines have been viewed, there are many who may be surprised to find their annual products, from the best information, stated at three millions of pounds; and from this some idea may be formed of their riches and extent, and, when they come to be properly and regularly worked, how greatly they will contribute to the national wealth.[15]