Inspection of stores—Methods pursued—Interview with Lord W. Paulet—Scene in a kitchen—Terrible confusion—Only one plate—Underdone and overdone—Receipt for nourishing fare—Mr. Milton—Cordial reception—Plans for a better system—Dr. Taylor—Conversation upon cookery—Importance of culinary science in the medical department—A pleasant night—Value of a greatcoat—Operations commenced—Question of copper vessels—Curious method of marking the lots—A decent trick—Wilful waste—Experiments upon the extra diets—My first-class interpreter.
Inspection of stores—Methods pursued—Interview with Lord W. Paulet—Scene in a kitchen—Terrible confusion—Only one plate—Underdone and overdone—Receipt for nourishing fare—Mr. Milton—Cordial reception—Plans for a better system—Dr. Taylor—Conversation upon cookery—Importance of culinary science in the medical department—A pleasant night—Value of a greatcoat—Operations commenced—Question of copper vessels—Curious method of marking the lots—A decent trick—Wilful waste—Experiments upon the extra diets—My first-class interpreter.
AThalf-past six the next morning I was in the kitchen. The soldiers were at that hour making the coffee and tea for breakfast. I went with the serjeant on duty to inspect the quality of the meat, the quantity allowed, and the place of distribution. I found the meat of a very inferior quality, the method of distribution too complicated. When the weight of the quantity allowed was explained to me I found it correct. I was at first much puzzled at finding that some patients upon full diet received three quarters of a pound, some half a pound, and some a quarter of a pound of meat, accordingly as they were placed upon full, half, or quarter diet allowance—a system unavoidable in a hospital, but which would deceive the best cook. On some days, in providing for a hundred patients, this would make a difference of from ten to twenty pounds of meat, according to the number of half or quarter diets. Yet the same quantity of soup would nevertheless be required.
I made a note of this, and next perceived that every mess took their meat separately. Some messes numbered fifteen, twenty, or even thirty. The meat was spittedupon a rough piece of wood about two feet long, and then tied as tight as possible with a strong cord. Although this was a very bad method, I did not choose to interfere, as it was important for me to show them the evil effects of their system, and ensure a reform by pointing out a better. We then went to the store-rooms, and looked over what the contractor called the mixed vegetables, though they were principally of one kind, and half of these unfit for use. After having seen the rations weighed, I sent orders to the cooks not to commence operations until I arrived. We examined all kinds of preserved meats, soups, sweetmeats, &c. I next went to see the poultry, which I found of very inferior quality, consisting principally of old fowls, badly plucked and drawn. The gizzards, heads, and feet, which make such good broth, were thrown away. Mr. Bailey, whom I had not yet seen, then entered. When I had explained what we had already done, and the plan it would be most advisable to adopt for the future, he promised to bring the contractor, that we might talk the matter over. I examined the bread, which was very good indeed.
Mr. Bailey accompanied me to the various kitchens, where I had ordered the men to proceed as usual, and the same in the extra diet kitchen. During our progress I had the pleasure of meeting and being introduced to most of the medical gentlemen as they were visiting the patients in the corridors and wards. Having been informed that Mr. Milton, the purveyor in chief, had arrived, I called at his office, but unfortunately he had just gone to some storeroom—no one could tell which. I left my compliments, and a message to say that I should call again. I went to see Dr. Cumming, and report progress, and engaged to let him taste some of my cooking the following day. My next visit was to Lord W. Paulet, whom I found surrounded by military gentlemen of all ranks. He called me in, and, in a most good-natured manner, introduced me to his visitors, saying, “Now M. Soyer is come, I fear he will feed the sick soldiers so well, that they will be sorry to recover and leave the hospital.”
“Should such prove to be the case, it will be the best of all bad complaints.”
Some of the company inquired whether I was going to the Crimea.
“I must first make mydébuthere,” was my reply, “and then we shall see.”
“Monsieur Soyer, what can I do for you?”
“Your lordship can do what I require in two minutes. Will you be kind enough to send me a carpenter or two, and a bricklayer, to do some little matters I wish to have attended to?”
“Certainly; I will drop a line to Captain Gordon, the chief engineer, to that effect. His office is over the way—you had better go and see him.”
“Captain Gordon,” said a soldier, who brought some letters, “is gone to Pera.”
“I am happy to be able to inform your lordship that I am progressing very fast, and that every one is very obliging to me.”
“I am glad to hear that, Monsieur Soyer.”
“I suppose you could not spare time about one o’clock, to go round and see the meals served out?”
“I will try; but I fear I shall hardly have leisure. See what I have to do,” he continued, pointing to a pile of letters which the soldier had just brought in; “as Doctor Macgregor is going round with you, he will give me an account of everything.”
It was then noon, and about dinner-time. So I returned to the kitchen, where all was in the greatest confusion. Such a noise I never heard before. They were waiting for their soup and meat, and using coarse language, without making the least progress in the distribution. The market at old Billingsgate, during the first morning sale, was nothing compared to this military row. Each man had two tin cans for the soup. They kept running about and knocking against each other, in most admirable disorder. Such confusion, thought I, is enough to kill a dozen patients daily. As a natural consequence, several must go without anything; as,owing to the confusion, some of the orderly waiters get more and others less than their allowance. Any attempt to alter this at the time, would have been as wise as endeavouring to stop the current of the Bosphorus. As I did not wish to lose the chance of seeing the rations served out in the wards, I went for Dr. Macgregor, and we called for Mr. Milton—but the latter had not returned. I then fetched Miss Nightingale, and we went through the wards. The process of serving out the rations, though not quite such a noisy scene as that I had before witnessed, was far from being perfect. In the first place, the patients were allowed to eat the meat before the soup. As I was confident that this could not be by the doctor’s order, I asked the reason. The reply was, “we have only one plate.” (What they called a plate, was a round and deep tin dish, which held a pound of meat and a pint of soup.) I therefore recommended them to cut the meat as usual into small pieces, and pour the pint of boiling soup over it. This method had the advantage of keeping the meat hot.
“It will enable the patients,” I said, “to eat both the soup and meat warm, instead of cold—the daily practice, in consequence of the slow process of carving.”
“Very true,” said Dr. Macgregor. “Nay, more, the soup will comfort and dispose the stomach for the better digestion of the meat and potatoes. When the men are very hungry, they will often swallow their food without properly masticating it, and the meat is also probably tough.”
We then tasted both the soup and meat. The former was thin and without seasoning; the latter, mutton, tough and tasteless. The potatoes were watery. All these defects I promised to rectify the next day. We proceeded to a ward where they complained bitterly that the meat was never done; in fact, it was quite raw, and then of course the cook was blamed.
“Now,” said I to Miss Nightingale, “I will wager anything that we shall find some parts very well done,and some, no doubt, too much done, though it is all cooked in the same caldron.”
“How do you account for that, Monsieur Soyer? is it owing to the bad quality of the meat?”
“Not at all; that may come from the same sheep, and yet vary.”
At another mess, the meat was well done; a small piece at the end only being over-cooked.
“I will explain this to you, madam,” said I. “I remarked this morning that the man tied all the joints together very tight, after having put them upon a ‘skewer,’ as he calls it, almost as large as a wooden leg. The consequence is, that when the meat is thrown into boiling water, it is not properly done; the meat swells, and it is impossible for the heat or the water even to get at it.”
“Ah, I noticed that several of the men did exactly as you say this morning,” said Miss Nightingale. “The parts which are well done were placed loose upon the stick; and this explains the mystery—but I shall alter that to-morrow.”
Having afterwards inspected several extra-diet kitchens, and tasted various things, I perceived what I could accomplish, both as regarded convalescents and extra diets. Miss Nightingale having again offered to render any assistance in her power, left us; as she had a great deal to attend to. I retraced my steps to Dr. Cumming’s, and stated my opinion of the present system of cooking; and explained what I proposed doing, of all of which he approved highly. I then returned to the kitchen, and sent a requisition for six rations of everything allowed for making the soup. I proceeded thus:—
To eight pints of water I put four pounds of meat, a quarter of a pound of barley, a little salt and pepper, and the allowance of vegetables, and in about an hour I produced a very good soup—some of which I sent to several doctors. They tasted and praised it highly, as being very nourishing and palatable. I then carried some toDr. Cumming, who approved of its composition; but expressed his opinion that it would probably be too expensive. I then informed him I had made it with the ration allowance, taking the meat at half-diet scale. He was much pleased with the meat, which he pronounced highly palatable, and thought that the seasoning should be put in with the other ingredients. I explained that I could still improve it by the simple addition of a small quantity of sugar and flour.
“The purveyor will not, I am certain, refuse that,” said he.
“Oh, I am aware of that; but I wish to manage it without increasing the expense. I must accomplish that, if possible.” Miss Nightingale and Dr. Macgregor, to both of whom I sent some, praised it even more than the others had done, particularly the meat, which they stated to be of a very excellent flavour, and they had the opportunity of tasting the former. Mr. Milton came in, and though I had not had the pleasure of seeing that gentleman, from the description I had heard of him, and his pleasing manner, I knew I was not mistaken in saying—“Mr. Milton, allow me to have the honour of tendering my best compliments and thanks for your prompt visit.”
“No person could be more welcome here than you are, Monsieur Soyer. I only regret I was not in my office when you called. I should have been happy to have accompanied you round the wards. Your very just remarks have been repeated to me and the plan you mean to adopt explained, but I fear you will meet with so many difficulties that you will get tired before you have achieved much good.”
“Not at all,” I replied; “you will see a great change by to-morrow, which must be attributed chiefly to the politeness and cordial assistance I have met with from the members of every department—especially your own—which to me is the most important.”
“I have given orders that everything you may require is to be placed at your disposal, if in store; andany alteration or suggestion which is likely to be beneficial will be immediately attended to. You have only to ask for anything you need in the way of cooking utensils, and it shall, if possible, be procured.”
“My great object and delight will be to effect a change with the daily allowance.”
“That would certainly be as well; but I fancy it cannot be done. The provisions here are of a quality very inferior to what we get in London.”
“You are quite right, if they are all like those I saw this morning. Favour me by tasting these two soups. Julien! please to give Mr. Milton two small basins of soup—one of mine, and one of that made at the hospital.” On tasting mine first he pronounced it very good and palatable, and of an excellent flavour. The other, although made with exactly the same materials, he could hardly swallow. It had no seasoning, had a blackish appearance, and was quite tasteless.
“There is no comparison,” said Mr. Milton.
“All the soup will in future be like the sample I have made, and I can greatly improve it by the addition of a few pounds of brown sugar and a little flour extra.”
“Monsieur Soyer, I beg you will not regard such trivial expenses, at any rate for the present; what is required you shall have.”
“I see the fresh vegetables are very bad—as you have a quantity of preserved ones, I shall mix them.”
“In future we must try and get better meat, poultry, and eggs; and, above all, charcoal. I am aware you have justly complained of them. Have you seen our bread?”
“Yes, I have, and very good it is too.”
“That is really all we can manage to my satisfaction. As regards the meat and poultry, I will send you the contractor; but the charcoal is in the commissariat department. I shall write an official letter respecting it. I see,” he continued, looking at some, “it is all dust, and seems quite wet.”
“Pray send off a letter; and if you will give me the name of the gentleman who is at the head of that department, I shall be happy to make his acquaintance; and beg of him not to allow any delay, as I consider this the most important matter of all.”
I repeated the reason for saying this which I have before mentioned.
After listening attentively to my remarks, Mr. Milton said:—
“You may well call it the most important, and the sooner it is altered the better.”
We parted. I then told the soldier cooks to have the boilers thoroughly cleaned, and everything in from the stores by eight o’clock the next morning, as I intended making the soup myself. I left Julien, my head man, with them to superintend matters.
Having called upon Doctor Taylor, I had a long conversation with him upon cookery. In the course of this he said,—
“On finding that the cooking was so badly done, I took upon myself, not only to superintend the men, but also to cook and teach them; and I must say I found them very willing. How could I expect them to know anything about it? they had never been taught to do it.”
“True, Doctor; and, as soon as they begin to know a little about it, they are recalled to their regiments, and replaced by new-comers as ignorant as they were themselves at first.”
“Exactly; and I tell you what, Monsieur Soyer, though we may be very good doctors, and possess a thorough knowledge of medical science, we still need the aid of culinary science; for the one without the other will produce but very unsatisfactory results. Since I have turned my attention to it, I am more and more fortified in the opinion which I have expressed before several medical boards, that a doctor, to be well qualified, should have some knowledge of the art of cookery, and this he ought to acquire in the first stage of his medical education.”
“Indeed, Doctor, it is not with the view of elevating my profession, to which I have now devoted my attention for more than twenty-seven years, that I say I am persuaded that this science has been too lightly treated. In corroboration of your just remark, I have, as you will find, already stated in my various works upon cookery, that to make a good cook it is of paramount importance that a man should possess some chemical as well as medical knowledge.”
“I agree with you, Monsieur Soyer,” said he.
“As soon as my kitchen is ready, Doctor, I hope you will favour me with a visit.”
“With much pleasure. Let me know when it is finished.”
To my great regret, I was obliged to see about returning to Pera, some delay having taken place in the completion of my house. On reaching the landing-place not a caique was to be had, the weather was so bad they could not cross. A friend offered me shelter for that night at a small restaurant kept by a Greek called Demetri. There were seventeen of us lying on straw sofas, with the privilege of covering ourselves with our great coats, if fortunate enough to possess one. Rooms were at a premium in Scutari. It was also necessary for anybody who wished to have the benefit of his great-coat to keep awake all night; for no sooner did you begin to doze than some of your sleeping partners, who happened to be wide awake, endeavoured to appropriate the coveted garment to their use; and the weather being very chilly, this proved anything but pleasant. Unfortunately, after passing an uncomfortable night, I did not feel much refreshed, and was almost unfit to undertake the difficult task I had before me. However, I was up at six, and in the kitchen by seven. None of my orders had been attended to. My own people were not there as they ought to have been; and the men told me they could not get the rations till ten o’clock, that being the usual time for issuing them.
“Really,” said I; “and pray who told you so?”
“The serjeant and some of the orderlies,” was the reply.
“We shall see all about that; come with me.”
The truth is, I did find it very difficult to get anything; but, in less than half-an-hour after I had been to the purveyor’s head-quarters my new regiment began to manœuvre admirably under my command. By eight o’clock everything was ready for the cooking, except my cooks, who had been sleeping in a store-room upon some straw, and had a regular fray with the allied rats. These animals, it appears, had come to welcome them to Scutari.
Upon inspecting the boilers, my first fear was realized—there was nothing but copper—all the tinning had worn away. And very difficult was it to ascertain this fact, these immense and deep caldrons being securely screwed to the marble basement, and extremely difficult, not only to remove, but also to tin when removed. I consider it most advisable that all large establishments should have their cooking apparatus made of malleable iron, which is extremely clean, is much cheaper, and does not require tinning: the lid may be made of copper for appearance’ sake, but not so the boiler. The kitchen battery of the wealthy alone should be copper, as they can afford to employ professional persons for the preparation of their diet, who never would attempt using them when coppery. (For my important visit to the Consumptive Hospital at Brompton, seeAddenda.)
That day I was obliged to use them. Having put the proper quantity of water into each copper, with the meat, barley, vegetables, and salt and pepper, we lighted the fires; and after allowing the ingredients to simmer for two hours and a half, an excellent soup was made; I only adding a little sugar and flour to finish it.
The receipt for this excellent soup, so highly approved of and immediately adopted by the medical men, will be found in my Hospital Diets, with a scale of proportions from ten to a hundred.
The meat was so poor that there was no fat to skimoff the soup. It was therefore served out at once, as described in the receipt. Several doctors went round with me, and asked the men how they liked it. They were all highly delighted with it, and praised it very much. I also took care that the rations of meat should not be tied together on the skewer.
The orderlies were now ordered not to tie their rations of meat so tight. Upon inspection I found that they had a most curious method of marking their different lots. Some used a piece of red cloth cut from an old jacket; others half a dozen old buttons tied together; old knives, forks, scissors, &c., but one in particular had hit upon an idea which could not fail to meet with our entire approval. The discovery of this brilliant idea was greeted with shouts of laughter from Miss Nightingale, the doctors, and myself. It consisted in tying a pair of old snuffers to the lot.
All this rubbish was daily boiled with the meat, but probably required more cooking. On telling the man with the snuffers that it was a very dirty trick to put such things in the soup, the reply was—“How can it be dirty, sir? sure they have been boiling this last month.”
When all the dinners had been served out, I perceived a large copper half full of rich broth with about three inches of fat upon it. I inquired what they did with this?
“Throw it away, sir.”
“Throw it away?” we all exclaimed.
“Yes, sir; it’s the water in which the fresh beef has been cooked.”
“Do you call that water? I call it strong broth. Why don’t you make soup of it?”
“We orderlies don’t like soup, sir.”
“Then you really do throw it away?”
“Yes, sir; it is good for nothing.”
I took a ladle and removed a large basinful of beautiful fat, which, when cold, was better for cooking purposes than the rank butter procured from Constantinople atfrom ten to fifteen piastres per pound. The next day I showed the men how to make a most delicious soup with what they had before so foolishly thrown away. This method they were henceforward very glad to adopt. Not less than seventy pounds of beef had been daily boiled in this manner, and without salt. It would hardly be credited, but for its truth I can appeal to Miss Nightingale and others who were present.
Nothing was needed but a sharp look-out after the cooks in order to ensure complete success. The day after I had the coppers tinned. The next thing was to have a charcoal stove built, an oven, a store-room, and a larder partitioned off; and a kitchen dresser and chopping-block made. Through the kindness of the Chief Engineer, Captain Gordon, these things were accomplished in a few days, and at a trifling expense. If not a very magnificent, it was, as will be seen, a very spacious and handy kitchen.
In a few days I made experiments in small quantities upon all the various extra diets, such as chicken, mutton, and veal broth, the cooking of fowls, beef and mutton tea, &c. I did not forget the beverages, such as rice water, lemonades, arrow-root, panada ditto, barley water, sago jelly, &c.; rice pudding, sago, bread, vermicelli and macaroni ditto. The receipts will be found in theAddenda, under the head of “Hospital Diets.”
A gentleman, Mr. Black, who was a first-class interpreter, was then introduced to me by the Purveyor-in-Chief, and appointed to assist me in any way I might require his aid. He was highly recommended by Miss Nightingale, and a number of first-class doctors, as well as by Lord William Paulet. It is with gratitude that I acknowledge the great assistance I received from that gentleman during his stay with me, and the energy he displayed in procuring everything I required. He spoke French fluently, also the Turkish, Greek, and Armenian languages. This rendered him invaluable to me, as I was obliged to employ people speaking those different languages in my numerous kitchens. And whatwas more remarkable still, he was the husband of the celebrated Maid of Athens, whose company I had the pleasure of enjoying several times; and although this interesting personage is now in her tenth lustre, some remains of the eulogy of the great Byron seem still engraved on the physiognomy of the once celebrated Greek beauty; and she informed me that when Lord Byron wrote his poem on her, she was but ten years of age, he at the time residing opposite the house of her parents at Athens.
Plan of proceeding—Inconveniences—Too many cooks spoil the broth—Supplementary scale—How to make tea—The Scutari Teapot—Soyer House—Kululee Hospital—Beautiful view of the city of Constantine and the Bosphorus—Lady Stratford de Redcliffe’s arrival—Bad cookery—General and Riding-school Hospitals—Miss Stanley—Hit upon an entirely new plan—Temporary indisposition—Depression of spirits—Happy recovery—Opening day—Grand success—Lord W. Paulet’s letter—Take one wing of the hospital—The old system—Dissatisfaction of the patients.
Plan of proceeding—Inconveniences—Too many cooks spoil the broth—Supplementary scale—How to make tea—The Scutari Teapot—Soyer House—Kululee Hospital—Beautiful view of the city of Constantine and the Bosphorus—Lady Stratford de Redcliffe’s arrival—Bad cookery—General and Riding-school Hospitals—Miss Stanley—Hit upon an entirely new plan—Temporary indisposition—Depression of spirits—Happy recovery—Opening day—Grand success—Lord W. Paulet’s letter—Take one wing of the hospital—The old system—Dissatisfaction of the patients.
INa short time, and without much trouble, I initiated the soldier cooks into my method, and taught the serjeant to see it properly executed. I shall here describe the process fully, as it will be generally useful for hospitals or public institutions. In the first place I drew up two receipts—the one by weight and the other by measure, the former for beef and the latter for mutton soups. Mutton was the principal meat used for patients in a state of convalescence. These receipts I had carefully copied and hung up in the kitchen, at the same time supplying the cooks with weights and scales. I also taught them how to stew the meat well, and to manage the fires so as to prevent over-boiling or burning, as well as to economize the fuel. It was no longer a matter of much difficulty. Every soldier had become a cook; and if in case of any of them being removed to their regiments, one of the initiated, under the direction of the above-mentioned serjeant, who was not changed, soon made a new recruit capable of cooking for any number. So simple was this plan, that it was as easy to cook forthousands as it had before been for hundreds, and to do it to perfection.[9]
Although this was as perfect as possible, a great difficulty still remained, as the number varied daily, some days increasing, others decreasing; and as the whole was cooked by messes, the same caldron, was required to cook for two hundred and fifty persons one day, and perhaps for one hundred and seventy the next. This caused great confusion and delay, as well as continual quarrelling, among the cooks and orderlies, the latter complaining of not getting their full share; and if this happened, it was a matter of vital importance to the patient, who was thus deprived of the proper quantity of sustenance ordered by the medical man. In fact, it led to many very serious results. I therefore settled that all the caldrons should be filled every day; and as each boiler would cook for one hundred and fifty, in one only was it necessary that the quantity should vary. As it was most probable that this one would vary daily, I made a supplementary scale for it, from five diets to one hundred, leaving only a few pounds to be guessed. If any mistake occurred, it could be of no material consequence. I also had tinned iron, skewers made, with numbers to each, to prevent the meat being mixed in the boilers, as expedition, cleanliness, and proportion should be the motto of all such establishments. This plan was followed to the last.
As all the boilers had been well tinned, I showed the men how to make tea on a large scale. Their plan was to tie the tea in a piece of cloth, and throw it into the boilingwater. In a few minutes the cloth had shrunk so much, that the aroma of the tea, instead of being diffused, was retained in the centre, the inside of the bag being scarcely soaked. This I proposed to remedy by having fine nets made for the purpose. Miss Nightingale immediately had this done, and they were a great improvement. This, after all, was not quite satisfactory, as the tea had to be made in the same boilers as the soup and meat. The coppers were fixtures, and of such large dimensions, that it was almost impossible to clean them properly. I therefore invented my Scutari Teapot, with its valuable and economical improvement upon the old system, the model of which is given at the end of the book. (SeeAddenda.)
DESCRIPTION OF TEAPOT.
I had a large kettle made, holding eight quarts, and put a coffee filter to it. I then placed the rations of tea for about twenty men in the filter, poured in the boiling water, and, to my astonishment, made about one-fourth more tea, perfectly clear, and without the least sediment. Four of these kettles made enough tea for all the hospital, and this at once induced me to order some upon a smaller scale for the various wards, where at night it is often of the greatest importance that tea should be prepared quickly, in large quantities. I cannot too strongly recommend it to large families, institutions, and other establishments, for its economy of time, and a saving of at least twenty-five per cent, upon the quantity of tea required. I tried it in Miss Nightingale’s room at Scutari, before several persons; and the Reverend Mr. Blackwood, the chaplain, persuaded me to bring them out for the benefit of the poorer classes, as much for its cleanliness as its economy. This, reader, I claim more as a happy thought than an invention; but I always had an idea that tea should be suspended in the water, instead of being allowed to fall to the bottom, as is generally the case. Coffee may be made in these vessels, as the construction is the same as that of a coffee-pot.
By this time my kiosque, or, as it was afterwardsnamed, Soyer House, was ready. It was situated in Cambridge-street, near the Scutari Grand Champ des Morts. Thanks to this, my daily trip across the Bosphorus was at an end, and as the March winds had a great influence upon its current, I preferredterra firma, to rolling about in its whimsical stream of daily pearls, evening diamonds, and shoals of immense porpoises, which towards sunset commence to accompany you with their nautical summersaults. These at first terrified the uninitiated, who could not help fearing the sudden appearance of an unexpected passenger on board the caique.
The time having been fixed by Lady Stratford de Redcliffe for our visit to Kululee, in company with a doctor from that hospital I rode over there. It is about five miles from Scutari, along the edge of the Bosphorus; and from an ancient Jewish cemetery on the top of one of the hills the beauty of the panorama is such as to defy description. My opinion is, that such another view does not exist in any other spot under the canopy of heaven. Under its inspiration I entirely forgot the annoyance I had endured in that labyrinth of ruin and filth. From this spot the metropolis of Constantine, backed by a sky of fire, presented so sublime and picturesque an appearance, that in an enchanted dream alone could one hope to realize the effect of the mirage. It embraced the city and the whole length of the Bosphorus, down to the entrance of the Black Sea. Leaving this beautiful landscape, we passed through several dull, though very pretty villages, and shortly after arrived at the hospital and barrack of Kululee. It is surrounded by kiosques and country seats. The country appears very rich and fertile, but owing to the indolence of the inhabitants, “which may be adopted as a proverb,” produces little. Although Nature has done so much for the Moslem race, she seems also to have deprived them of the faculty of exertion, and consequently of doing anything for themselves.
Shortly after our arrival we saw, through the golden rays of a dazzling sunlight, several caiques gaily dancing on the turbulent waves of the Bosphorus. They dartedswiftly towards us; the caidjees wore white jackets with flowing sleeves. In a few minutes Lady Stratford landed, attended by several of her fair companions. “Have you been over the hospital, Monsieur Soyer?” said Lady Stratford, on landing.
“No, I have not, my lady.”
“I am glad of that, as I wish to explain everything to you respecting the various kitchen departments myself. You must know, Monsieur Soyer, that we have three separate hospitals here. Although they are under the direction of one doctor, they form three distinct establishments. We will now visit the Barrack Hospital, as we are so close to it, and then the other two.”
Several remarks were made upon the delightful situation of Kululee. Lady Stratford in the meantime sent Signor Roco to apprise Dr. Humfries of our arrival. We commenced visiting the store-rooms, provisions, kitchens, larders, &c. I found in the extra-diet kitchen several very good and well-prepared diets; and amongst these some very nice calves’-foot jelly, and excellent rice pudding made by the Sisters of Mercy. I took notes of what was required in kitchen utensils—alterations and improvements in that department; and as one of Captain Gordon’s best men was with me, our business proceeded very rapidly.
Lady Stratford proposed that we should next visit the principal kitchen. “I think, from its appearance, Monsieur Soyer, that it is in a very bad state.” Such proved to be the case. It was in perfect darkness, full of smoke, and the stoves, as large as those at Scutari, required considerable alterations, the furnaces being inside, instead of out, as at Scutari. The brick-work was quite burnt out, and all the smoke came in the kitchen, blinding the men, who could not support the extra fatigue caused by this nuisance, even preferring their dangerous duty in the trenches to this kind of culinary inquisition, as it might very justly have been called. They were in consequence changed every week, or even oftener. The result of this was bad cookery and the consumption of about 170 per cent. morewood than was necessary. The men actually piled small trees, cut into lengths of five or six feet, upon the fires; and when the soup boiled too fast they threw pailsful of water upon the burning wood, thus filling the place with dust and steam. As the boilers were screwed down in the same manner as those at Scutari Barrack Hospital, they had never been tinned since first used. I at once had the furnaces put in order, and the skylight over them repaired. I gave them my receipts, and sent one of my men over for a few days to teach them how to make the soup. I also promised Lady Stratford, who took so much interest in the success of that hospital, to call as often as I could; and, after the opening of my kitchens at Scutari, to spend a few days there, and superintend the cooking myself.
We then went to the General Hospital, on the top of the hill, which contained three hundred patients. Having had the honour of being introduced to the Sisters of Mercy, I took notes of all that was wanted there, and we lastly proceeded to the Riding School Hospital, appropriated to the convalescents. There I had the pleasure of being introduced to Miss Stanley, who had the superintendence of the Sisters. This establishment had neither kitchen nor cooking utensils. However, by the aid of the engineer who accompanied us, everything was soon settled.
Yet, after all, I ordered nothing that was not indispensable; and I must remark that, with all the power with which I was invested by the War Department, coupled with the willing assistance of Captain Gordon, I found it a difficult matter to get a plank, or even a nail, fixed in any of the hospitals. At the same time, I may add, with pride and gratitude, that throughout the Crimean campaign I was most highly favoured by every department; for if anything I required was procurable, I had it.
Lady Stratford and visitors having expressed their satisfaction at the success of our visit, I was on the point of retiring with Signor Roco Vido, when Lady Stratford asked what day the kitchen at Scutari would be opened. “On Monday next,” was my reply. “I presume weshall be honoured with your ladyship’s presence, and that of your suite.”—“I shall not fail to attend, Monsieur Soyer,” were her ladyship’s words.
The Sisters having thanked me, we retired. We returned in a beautiful Oriental moonlight by the same road—the panorama of the morning being now tinted by the reflection of the soft rays of the moon.
Just as I had set everybody to work in the various hospitals, and my Scutari kitchen was nearly finished, an entirely new plan suggested itself to my mind. It was as follows:—Instead of commencing with a hundred patients at a time, as I had at first intended, I changed my mind, and preferred making a grand opening, resolving to invite all the heads of the medical department in the various hospitals, as well as some of the most eminent among the French and Turkish medical staff. This, I was aware, was a bold experiment; for had I failed—and many unforeseen events might have caused such a result—my reputation would have suffered. I was, therefore, well aware that I was risking the labour of twenty years against an uncertainty; as all those I was about to invite would come to watch my proceedings with the eyes of Argus, and would judge of my plans accordingly. At all events, my sample trials had already given great satisfaction to two eminent doctors. In pursuance of this plan, I went to Lord William Paulet, explained it, and begged him to send, or cause to be sent, invitations to all the principal officers to honour me with their presence upon the occasion, which his lordship kindly promised to do. I also apprised the doctor-in-chief, who promised to attend himself, and invite the principal medical gentlemen to do the same.
The opening day was fixed for the following Monday—it was then Tuesday—leaving me till Thursday to finish my preparations. On the Friday morning, after having inspected several kitchens, and gone through a number of wards, I was suddenly taken ill. I seemed to have forgotten everything, and experienced at the same time a sensation of brain fever. There were, however, none of its symptoms. Although I was quite consciousof what I had to do, I was entirely incapable of doing it, or of ordering anything or directing any one. In fact, I began to fear that all my former endeavours would prove useless, and the opening of my kitchen be a marked failure. The day appointed by Lord Paulet could not easily be changed, and such a course would have caused the success of my project to be doubted. Though I had a couple of assistants, neither of them could carry it out for me, as they did not know my plans. This sudden indisposition I only mentioned to my people and to Doctor Macgregor, who told me to keep quiet, and gave me some soothing medicine. It was Sunday afternoon before my head was clear, and, after a good night’s rest, I felt myself again, and quite able to open my kitchen on the day appointed.
The doctor attributed this mental disorder to the effect produced by the immense number of sick and wounded I was in the habit of seeing daily, and the numerous dead bodies passing before the windows to be buried. I had also witnessed several cases of autopsy and some operations. “This,” he said, “with the constant worry of business, has unnerved you to that extent, that had you unfortunately taken the fever, you would perhaps never have recovered your senses.” However, thanks to a kind Providence, I was able to open my kitchen at the appointed time. It met with perfect success, and the entire approbation of all the medical gentlemen and visitors present. They all expressed themselves highly gratified, and declared that the various samples of diets I then submitted for their opinion were much preferable to those produced under the old system, besides having the merit of being concocted with the same ration allowance.
The plan I adopted was this:—my samples of diets and extra diets being prepared, I arranged the basins containing the different diets on the table, and in juxta-position I placed those prepared by the soldiers, affixing a number to each, to enable the people present to make a comparison. All was ready by eleven o’clock, and one being the time appointed for the arrival of the visitors, I fetched Doctor Cumming, and requested him to taste the several samples, and give me his candidopinion; observing that everything was made from the usual allowance, and cost about the same, or even less, when made in large quantities.
No. 1, was beef-tea. Tasting my sample first, Doctor Cumming pronounced it good; the other, without taste or flavour. No. 1 was adopted.
Then followed chicken-broth, mutton-broth, beef-soup, rice-water, barley-water, arrowroot-water, ditto with wine, sago with port, calves’-foot jelly, &c. Everything was found superior, and so highly commended by the doctor-in-chief, I no longer had any doubt of success, nor of the general approval of all the faculty. I promised to lay the recipes for my new diets before the doctor the next day, and he retired.[10]
About half-past twelve, the kitchen was crowded to excess with military and medical men. Lord William Paulet entered, followed by his staff, and accompanied by Mr. Milton, Mr. and Mrs. Bracebridge, &c. They were much pleased with the cleanly appearance of the kitchen, and equally surprised at the alteration which it had undergone in so short a time. I then showed his lordship round, carefully pointing out to him the simple but useful alterations I had effected; and requested him to taste the various samples, compare the one with the other, and give his candid opinion thereupon. Having done this, Lord W. Paulet expressed his high satisfaction, and to confirm it, while in the kitchen, wrote the following letter:—
Lord William Paulet to Monsieur Soyer.It is with great pleasure that I state I have carefully viewed and tasted the new diets introduced by Monsieur Soyer in the hospitals this day; and had I not seen and tasted them, I could not have believed that such an amelioration could have been produced from the same materials as allowed by Government.W. Paulet.
Lord William Paulet to Monsieur Soyer.
It is with great pleasure that I state I have carefully viewed and tasted the new diets introduced by Monsieur Soyer in the hospitals this day; and had I not seen and tasted them, I could not have believed that such an amelioration could have been produced from the same materials as allowed by Government.
W. Paulet.
THE BARRACK HOSPITAL KITCHEN, SCUTARI.THE BARRACK HOSPITAL KITCHEN, SCUTARI.
Above a hundred officials from the various hospitals were present, and many of the Sisters of Mercy. Not one person had anything to say in disapproval; but, onthe contrary, praised everything. This was sufficient to stamp it with success. The only thing I regretted was, that—owing to the rough state of the Bosphorus that day—Lady Stratford de Redcliffe, as well as a number of military men and medical officers from the French and Turkish hospitals, were not present. However, they visited my kitchen some days after, and having inspected everything, added their testimonials of approbation to those I had already received. They were particularly struck with the cleanliness and order in a place where so much was done daily.
The day after the opening, I proposed to Doctors Cumming and Macgregor, the superintendent, to take one wing of the hospital, which contained one-fourth of the patients, and supply these with all which they might require. This I did with the greatest ease, and without the least confusion, much to the satisfaction of the patients. I continued to do this for three days, and then took half of the hospital in hand. As I wished fully to impress the patients with the superiority of my newly-adopted diets, I then took the other half in hand, and put the first back to the oldrégime, for a day or two, as I was not quite prepared to undertake the whole at once. The patients immediately became dissatisfied, so I was obliged to go with Dr. Macgregor to them and explain the reason of the sudden change, which was only momentary, three cheers from my numerous guests closing my laconic, though effective, speech.
The extra-diet kitchens closed—One large kitchen—Plan for keeping the dinners hot—General satisfaction—The General Hospital—Summons to Kululee—Labours there—Palace and Hyder Pacha Hospitals—Ordered to proceed to the Crimea—Model field-stove—Conversation with Lord W. Paulet—A new Purveyor-in-chief—Companions for the voyage to the Crimea—An evening at Dr. Macgregor’s—Return home—A midnight scene—The dying soldier—The guardian angel—Mr. Robertson, the new purveyor—Final tour of inspection—General Vivian and his aide-de-camp—Parting testimony.
The extra-diet kitchens closed—One large kitchen—Plan for keeping the dinners hot—General satisfaction—The General Hospital—Summons to Kululee—Labours there—Palace and Hyder Pacha Hospitals—Ordered to proceed to the Crimea—Model field-stove—Conversation with Lord W. Paulet—A new Purveyor-in-chief—Companions for the voyage to the Crimea—An evening at Dr. Macgregor’s—Return home—A midnight scene—The dying soldier—The guardian angel—Mr. Robertson, the new purveyor—Final tour of inspection—General Vivian and his aide-de-camp—Parting testimony.
AFEWdays afterwards, I closed all the extra-diet kitchens, with the exception of the one under the direction of Miss Nightingale, and another under the direction of Dr. Taylor, having discharged about twenty soldier cooks, who consumed daily ten times more fuel than was required; this at the same time much deteriorated the quality of the extra diets, which required the greatest attention as regarded the regulation of the heat. We prepared everything in the one large kitchen—viz., breakfast, dinner, tea, extra-diets, the cooking for the orderlies, &c., included. Having got all under my own eye, I placed two civilian cooks in charge of the extra-diets, with six soldiers to assist them, who might at the same time be instructed, instead of the twelve before required—thus simplifying the whole process.
The only difficulty that remained was, how to send the dinners hot to the various wards, on account of the distance being so great. Miss Nightingale submitted a very excellent plan, which was adopted with success. It is very similar to that in use in the French hospitals, with this difference, that we introduced double cases in which to carry boiling water, thus keeping the contents of the several divisions hot much longer. Two of these caseswere sufficient for each ward, and after they had been in use for a week, no establishment could be in better order. Had there been room in the hospital we could have accommodated as many more patients with the greatest ease, the receipts being regulated by weight and measure, from an ounce for certain articles, to seven or eight cwt. for others. I must also observe, in thanking Mr. Milton, the purveyor, that he rendered me the full amount of assistance he had promised, and without such powerful aid, as well as that of Mr. Tucker, it would have been impossible for me to have made so much progress in so short a period.
In the first place, the provisions were improved—the old fowls got unexpectedly younger, and the fuel was better. I was thus perfectly satisfied, and so was everybody else—medical officers as well as patients. As soon as the alterations at the General Hospital were completed, and which made a very good kitchen, being clean, light, and commodious, instead of being ill-adapted for the purpose, as I at first found it, I paid a second visit to Doctor Lawson, the chief medical officer of this hospital. I then tried some experiments before him and numerous other doctors similar to those I had previously made at the Barrack Hospital, and with the same success; and I must say, as far as the extra diet went, in justice to Doctor O’Flaherty, the under-superintendent, with a great deal less trouble than I experienced at the Barrack Hospital; Doctor O’Flaherty having carefully watched over and disposed of that very important department. I next went to Kululee, then in charge of the new lady manager, Miss Hutton, who had replaced Miss Stanley. I received the following letter from that lady, and at once placed myself at her disposal.