Head-quarters, Crimea,19th March, 1856.Sir,—In reply to your letter of the 13th inst., I am directed to acquaint you that the new field-stoves will not be issued by Captain Gordon until he receives instructions to that effect from the Quartermaster-General. Lieut.-Colonel Halliwell, Assistant Quartermaster-General of the Fourth Division, will give you, on your arrival in the Crimea, every information as to the hut which was directed to be built for your use in the camp of the Fourth Division.I have the honour to be, Sir,Your most obedient servant,Robert Blane, Lieut.-Col.,Military Secretary.Monsieur A. Soyer,Barrack Hospital, Scutari.
Head-quarters, Crimea,19th March, 1856.
Sir,—In reply to your letter of the 13th inst., I am directed to acquaint you that the new field-stoves will not be issued by Captain Gordon until he receives instructions to that effect from the Quartermaster-General. Lieut.-Colonel Halliwell, Assistant Quartermaster-General of the Fourth Division, will give you, on your arrival in the Crimea, every information as to the hut which was directed to be built for your use in the camp of the Fourth Division.
I have the honour to be, Sir,Your most obedient servant,Robert Blane, Lieut.-Col.,Military Secretary.
Monsieur A. Soyer,Barrack Hospital, Scutari.
The exertion I had undergone for nearly twenty-four hours, I fully expected would have laid me up for as many days. On the contrary, however, I felt as strong again as the day before the ball, and to this event alone I attribute my cure. This proves that a sudden change may often be beneficial in cases of violent disease. In a few days I once more embarked on board theOttowa, and was againen routeto the Crimean shore, but received the following letter from Lord de Redcliffe before leaving:—
British Embassy,February 20th, 1856.Dear Monsieur Soyer,—I cannot let you go back to the Crimea, which I understand you think of doing, without receiving my written thanks, in addition to those which I have already expressed by word of mouth.It must be a great satisfaction to you to have found so excellent a field for the application of your skill and humanity; and I sincerely hope that your name will be never dissociated from the great and memorable events of the present war.Believe me, very sincerely yours,Stratford de Redcliffe.Monsieur A. Soyer.
British Embassy,February 20th, 1856.
Dear Monsieur Soyer,—I cannot let you go back to the Crimea, which I understand you think of doing, without receiving my written thanks, in addition to those which I have already expressed by word of mouth.
It must be a great satisfaction to you to have found so excellent a field for the application of your skill and humanity; and I sincerely hope that your name will be never dissociated from the great and memorable events of the present war.
Believe me, very sincerely yours,Stratford de Redcliffe.
Monsieur A. Soyer.
Prior to my departure, to my great satisfaction, the Medical Staff Corps were well established in the Barrack and General Hospitals, these being the only ones remaining. All the responsibility of the culinary department in those establishments was thus taken off my hands, as the Medical Staff were well acquainted with my system, which was followed to the last.
The following letters which I wrote to the Government and General Storks will prove the necessity that exists for the establishment of such a corps for military hospitals; and it ought to be established by every nation.
To General Storks, Commanding Officer.Barrack Hospital, Scutari,March 11th, 1856.Mons. le General,—My field-stoves for the army, so long expected, having just arrived; in a few days I shall proceed to the Crimea to distribute them to the different regiments, as per special orders from the War-office.Prior to my departure hence, I am happy to inform you that the Medical Staff Corps is now instructed by Victor, the civilian cook, in the management of the kitchen department of the hospital under the new system introduced by me and approved of by the medical authorities, which up to this time (a period of twelve months) has perfectly succeeded.As I shall require Victor with me in the Crimea, I shall leave the future management in the hands of the said corps: I would recommend its introduction in all the military hospitals, it being of the utmost importance for the regularity of the diet for the sick, that theemployés, when once initiated, should not be removed, as was the case with the soldier cooks, and which removal was much commented upon by myself and Dr. Cumming on my arrival at Scutari, and induced me to introduce civilian cooks. The introduction of the new corps will also tend to the regularity and economy of the extra-diet system, which is a matter of great importance in so large an establishment, and has till now been attended with difficulty, as the civilian cooks could not be subjected to the rigid discipline of the new corps.I feel myself in duty bound to say that Mr. Robertson, the purveyor-in-chief, has assisted me in every way to bring the system to the state of perfection in which it now is; which system I am confident will, by the introduction of my printed receipts, be adopted at home in the civil as well as military hospitals—it having been submitted to both military and civilian medical officers, whohave approved the same, and also assisted me with their valuable knowledge and suggestions in its formation.With the highest consideration, I have the honour to be,Your most obedient servant,A. Soyer.
To General Storks, Commanding Officer.Barrack Hospital, Scutari,March 11th, 1856.
Mons. le General,—My field-stoves for the army, so long expected, having just arrived; in a few days I shall proceed to the Crimea to distribute them to the different regiments, as per special orders from the War-office.
Prior to my departure hence, I am happy to inform you that the Medical Staff Corps is now instructed by Victor, the civilian cook, in the management of the kitchen department of the hospital under the new system introduced by me and approved of by the medical authorities, which up to this time (a period of twelve months) has perfectly succeeded.
As I shall require Victor with me in the Crimea, I shall leave the future management in the hands of the said corps: I would recommend its introduction in all the military hospitals, it being of the utmost importance for the regularity of the diet for the sick, that theemployés, when once initiated, should not be removed, as was the case with the soldier cooks, and which removal was much commented upon by myself and Dr. Cumming on my arrival at Scutari, and induced me to introduce civilian cooks. The introduction of the new corps will also tend to the regularity and economy of the extra-diet system, which is a matter of great importance in so large an establishment, and has till now been attended with difficulty, as the civilian cooks could not be subjected to the rigid discipline of the new corps.
I feel myself in duty bound to say that Mr. Robertson, the purveyor-in-chief, has assisted me in every way to bring the system to the state of perfection in which it now is; which system I am confident will, by the introduction of my printed receipts, be adopted at home in the civil as well as military hospitals—it having been submitted to both military and civilian medical officers, whohave approved the same, and also assisted me with their valuable knowledge and suggestions in its formation.
With the highest consideration, I have the honour to be,
Your most obedient servant,A. Soyer.
To the Right Hon. Lord Panmure, Secretary-at-War.Barrack Hospital, Scutari,March 11th, 1856.My Lord,—The shipCape of Good Hope, with the first consignment of my stoves on board, has just passed through the Bosphorus to Balaklava, and, to my great disappointment, without stopping here; as I was in daily expectation of her arrival in order to proceed in her to the Crimea, and distribute them to the different regiments, having with that view requested from the Admiralty-office, and the wharf-master at Scutari, notice of her arrival. I have just been apprised that the ship was ordered direct for Balaklava, and I shall follow her as early as possible. I have written to head-quarters to that effect, and beg to enclose the copy of a letter to General Storks, in which your lordship will perceive how highly I approve of the introduction of the new Medical Staff Corps.I have the honour to be,Your most obedient servant,A. Soyer.
To the Right Hon. Lord Panmure, Secretary-at-War.Barrack Hospital, Scutari,March 11th, 1856.
My Lord,—The shipCape of Good Hope, with the first consignment of my stoves on board, has just passed through the Bosphorus to Balaklava, and, to my great disappointment, without stopping here; as I was in daily expectation of her arrival in order to proceed in her to the Crimea, and distribute them to the different regiments, having with that view requested from the Admiralty-office, and the wharf-master at Scutari, notice of her arrival. I have just been apprised that the ship was ordered direct for Balaklava, and I shall follow her as early as possible. I have written to head-quarters to that effect, and beg to enclose the copy of a letter to General Storks, in which your lordship will perceive how highly I approve of the introduction of the new Medical Staff Corps.
I have the honour to be,Your most obedient servant,A. Soyer.
Excellent quality of the stoves—Mr. Phillips—Strange way of repairing—Interview with General Codrington—installed on Cathcart’s Hill—Gourmet and gourmand—Lessons to the soldier-cooks—Receipt to cook salt meat for fifty men—Army soup for fifty men—Success of my stoves—The grand breakfast—Guests—Economy—Use of the fat—General Garrett’s testimony—Giving-parties mania—Invitations—My first dinner—Amusements—General Lüders’s invitation to the Allied Commanders—Scene on the Mackenzie Heights—Fraternization—Hospitality of the Tartar families.
Excellent quality of the stoves—Mr. Phillips—Strange way of repairing—Interview with General Codrington—installed on Cathcart’s Hill—Gourmet and gourmand—Lessons to the soldier-cooks—Receipt to cook salt meat for fifty men—Army soup for fifty men—Success of my stoves—The grand breakfast—Guests—Economy—Use of the fat—General Garrett’s testimony—Giving-parties mania—Invitations—My first dinner—Amusements—General Lüders’s invitation to the Allied Commanders—Scene on the Mackenzie Heights—Fraternization—Hospitality of the Tartar families.
ITHUShad the opportunity of taking my civilian cooks away with me, as I wanted their services in the Crimea. Upon my arrival at Balaklava, I paid my respects to General Codrington. My stoves had arrived just before, and the fact of their having been adopted was mentioned in the orders of the day.
Mr. Phillips, the engineer I had requested the Government to send out to superintend or repair the stoves if required, arrived on board theArgo. I am happy to say that, as far as repairs were concerned, this gentleman’s services were not needed. Although the stoves were frequently moved from camp to camp, and from one regiment to another—were in continual use in the open air, exposed to all weathers, and some of them for above twelve months, they did not stand in need of any repairs. This fact speaks volumes for their fitness for campaigning.
Mr. Phillips was the son of one of the partners of the firm of Smith and Phillips. He had nothing to do professionally as regards the repairing of the stoves, but I must acknowledge that he made himself very useful as well as agreeable. He rose very early, and accompanied me in my camp cruises, racing fromstove to stove. He woke at daybreak, but always felt rather drowsy till he had taken a strong cup of tea, with a stronger drop of rum in it, which set him, as he said, upon his mettle. He then mounted his horse, which had gloriously served his country for nearly fourteen years in the French cavalry under a heavy cuirassier. The only inconvenience with this warrior quadruped was that my cockney Zouave was never sure which regiment he should visit first, as he was no sooner on the back of this old pensioner, than he began to fidget, and off he went in any direction, but always stopped at some regimental stable. This did not so much matter, as I had stoves in almost every regiment. The only plan was to make no positive appointment.
On two or three occasions he was less successful, forVentre-à-terre—such was the French name of that Pegasus—took him full gallop through the French camp. The first inconvenience was my having no stove there; the second, the French had arrested him for galloping through the camp, and were about to put his horse in the pound and himself in prison. I arrived quite by chance, and he was liberated. As he spoke no French, he was endeavouring to assure them in English that he was not the culprit, but his horse. I explained the case to the French sergeant, and recommended, as a point of justice, as it was the animal’s fault, that he should be put in the stable and the horse in prison. This amused the group of Imperial Guards, who surrounded us by scores, and a few bottles of very, very acid wine, procured at Madame Fleur des Bois’, the mistress of the canteen, terminated in full glee the adventure of my cockney Zouave of Snow-hill in the French camp of the Crimea.
Mr. Phillips was an excellent vocalist, and his collection, unlike that of my Zouave Bornet, with his “En avant les Bataillons d’Afrique,” “Storm of Constantine,” “Bravest of the Brave,” “Cannon Ball,” “Shell Polka,” &c., was of a softer nature, including “Sally in our Alley,” who, he pretended, was the love of his heart. Another of his favourite pieces intimated that the softpart of that organ was bursting for the love of Alice Gray, whom he very much wished to meet by moonlight alone, or in company with the “Ratcatcher’s Daughter,” while walking round the garden with “Villikins and his Dinah.” I am induced thus minutely to depict the merits of my Snow-hill Zouave, because he will be so well recognised by those who were in the camp. He was short, fair, fat, and full of London jokes, which he had the fault of laughing at more himself than those did who listened to him. He is a good son, good husband, good father, a good fellow, but a bad punster.
The chief evil in the old canteen cooking apparatus was, that it so easily got out of repair. There was no possibility either of mending them or of obtaining new ones, as they were only issued at certain periods. I saw some that had been mended in a most extraordinary style. When the hole was too small, the soldiers would poke a rusty nail into it; if large, a nail with a piece of leather attached. Other operators would cut a piece off the cover in order to mend the bottom or side; and as after that scientific repair leakage was unavoidable, they were obliged to keep putting in fresh water, or to let the canteen burn.
After our interview, General Codrington promised me his assistance. The Congress was then sitting, and rumours of peace were flying about. I asked the general whether it would not be better to prevent more stoves being sent out. He replied—
“Perhaps it would.”
“I am glad to hear you say so, your excellency, it being a sign of peace, as war I consider at all times unprofitable.”
“On the contrary, Monsieur Soyer; we are making greater preparations than ever for war.”
It was decided that, for the time being, one stove should be delivered to each regiment, and be removed from company to company, in order to give all the men an insight into the method of using them, and of my system of cooking. This was immediately done; and on the receipt of the following from Colonel Blane, I went to Colonel Halliwell:—
SOYER’S VILLARETTE ON CATHCART’S HILL. Taken unexpectedly by a Non-Commissioned Artist in the Rifle Brigade.SOYER’S VILLARETTE ON CATHCART’S HILL.Taken unexpectedly by a Non-Commissioned Artist in the Rifle Brigade.
Head-quarters, Crimea.My dear Sir,—By applying to Colonel Halliwell of the Fourth Division, he will give you possession of the hut which has been built for yourself and suite, and will assist you in every manner possible.I am, yours ever,S. J. Blane, Col.,Mil. Sec. to Gen. Sir W. Codrington, Commanding.To Monsieur Soyer.
Head-quarters, Crimea.
My dear Sir,—By applying to Colonel Halliwell of the Fourth Division, he will give you possession of the hut which has been built for yourself and suite, and will assist you in every manner possible.
I am, yours ever,S. J. Blane, Col.,Mil. Sec. to Gen. Sir W. Codrington, Commanding.
To Monsieur Soyer.
In a very short space of time my tents were pitched, and myself and my people were installed, on that celebrated spot called after that great and deeply-regretted man, General Cathcart—viz., Cathcart’s Hill.
This was now my castle, and proud was I of the noble site granted to me, as well as of my neighbours, from whom I received a most kind and friendly reception. Indeed, it was with the highest gratification that I found in the Fourth Division the same welcome and urbanity I had received in the First. I shall ever be grateful to Colonel Halliwell, who, by the bye, is a very distinguished artist and a discriminating epicure. Excuse the remark, dear reader, but a man, as I have already remarked in myRegenerator, may be either a gourmet or a gourmand, but never both: “car le gourmand n’est jamais gourmet; l’un mange sans déguster, l’autre déguste en mangeant.” The gourmet is the Epicurean dilettante, who eats scientifically and with all his organs—ears, of course, included. The gourmand’s stomach alone acts; he swallows all that is put before him, never praises the culinary artist, and seldom complains of the quality of the food, but frequently of the want of quantity.
Therefore, gourmets, epicures, high-livers, and wealthy merchants, who are gifted with a fine intellect, never allow yourselves to be called a gourmand if you are really deserving of the title of gourmet—and this title I confidently bestow upon my honourable friend Colonel Halliwell, who was not only a gourmet, but also a very good amateur cook. I defy any one to make a better mayonnaise, not even excepting professionals.
The plan I had adopted for the introduction of my stoves was as follows:—I first had an interview with thecolonel of the regiment, who introduced me to the quartermaster—the latter to the storekeeper. Then I went to the commissariat in each division, where I looked over the stores, in order to regulate the distribution of the provisions and condiments with judgment and according to common sense.[22]
To remedy this evil in a private family would only require a few minutes’ conversation with the cook; while in an army it would take years, as military rules would have to be changed and fresh ones introduced. Simple as the change may appear, it is still very difficultto carry out, particularly in a camp extending over such a large space of ground. Fortunately, I was invested with the power of doing so without troubling the authorities: nevertheless, it was only by the following plan that I succeeded. To effect this very important object, as well as to introduce my new system, I devoted an hour to attend in person and give the first lesson myself to the soldier-cooks. As the colonel, quartermaster, and a serjeant were present, besides many officers as lookers-on, a great impression was thus created upon the men, who immediately saw the importance of following my instructions. I supplied the cooks with receipts printed at head-quarters, which gave them quite an official appearance. The annexed specimen will give an idea of their simplicity, and of the facility with which they might be adopted:—
SOYER’S SIMPLIFIED RECEIPT TO COOK SALT MEAT FOR FIFTY MEN.Head-Quarters, Crimea,12th May, 1856.1.Put 50 lbs. of meat in the boiler.2.Fill with water, and let it soak all night.3.Next morning wash the meat well.4.Fill with fresh water, and boil gently three hours.P.S.—Skim off the fat, which, when cold, is an excellent substitute for butter.SOYER’S ARMY SOUP FOR FIFTY MEN.1.Put in the boiler 30 quarts, 7½ gallons, or 5½ camp-kettles of water.2.Add to it 50 lbs. of meat, either beef or mutton.3.The rations of preserved or fresh vegetables.4.Ten small table-spoonfuls of salt.5.Simmer three hours, and serve.P.S.—When rice is issued, put it in when boiling. Three pounds will be sufficient. About 8 lbs. of fresh vegetables, or 4 squares from a cake of preserved ditto. A table-spoonful of pepper, if handy.Skim off the fat, which, when cold, is an excellent substitute for butter.[23](For other variations of receipts, seeAddenda.)
SOYER’S SIMPLIFIED RECEIPT TO COOK SALT MEAT FOR FIFTY MEN.
P.S.—Skim off the fat, which, when cold, is an excellent substitute for butter.
SOYER’S ARMY SOUP FOR FIFTY MEN.
P.S.—When rice is issued, put it in when boiling. Three pounds will be sufficient. About 8 lbs. of fresh vegetables, or 4 squares from a cake of preserved ditto. A table-spoonful of pepper, if handy.
Skim off the fat, which, when cold, is an excellent substitute for butter.[23](For other variations of receipts, seeAddenda.)
Thanks to the kindness of the colonels and of the authorities of each regiment, every man did his best, and not one found fault with either the stoves or the receipts: on the contrary, they all took pride in their task, and only regretted being compelled to return to the use of the camp-kettles, as sufficient of my stoves had not then arrived to enable me to supply them all. The cooking out of doors was also very agreeable to them, besides the saving of labour, in not having to cut, split, or saw several hundredweight of wood for each company, as they now only required a few pounds.
Having proved the utility of the stoves, the military authorities and doctors tasted the different soups and messes, with which they were also well pleased. The following letters, with those inAddenda,[24]will fully corroborate my statement on both these points:—
War-Office,June 8th, 1855.Sir,—I am directed to acknowledge the receipt of your letter of the 11th ultimo, reporting your arrival at Balaklava, and the steps taken by you for improving the condition of the kitchens and cooking arrangements of the hospitals there; and to acquaint you, that your account of your proceedings and progress is very satisfactory.I am, Sir, your obedient servant,Frederick J. Prescott.Monsieur Soyer,TheRobert Lowe,Balaklava Harbour, Crimea.
War-Office,June 8th, 1855.
Sir,—I am directed to acknowledge the receipt of your letter of the 11th ultimo, reporting your arrival at Balaklava, and the steps taken by you for improving the condition of the kitchens and cooking arrangements of the hospitals there; and to acquaint you, that your account of your proceedings and progress is very satisfactory.
I am, Sir, your obedient servant,Frederick J. Prescott.
Monsieur Soyer,TheRobert Lowe,Balaklava Harbour, Crimea.
War Office,19th September, 1855.Sir,—I am directed to acknowledge the receipt of your letter of the 6th ultimo, enclosing a copy of your arrangements at Scutari prior to your leaving for the Crimea, and to convey to you the thanks of the Secretary-at-War for that very satisfactory communication.I am, Sir, your obedient servant,Fred. J. Prescott.Monsieur A. Soyer,Scutari.
War Office,19th September, 1855.
Sir,—I am directed to acknowledge the receipt of your letter of the 6th ultimo, enclosing a copy of your arrangements at Scutari prior to your leaving for the Crimea, and to convey to you the thanks of the Secretary-at-War for that very satisfactory communication.
I am, Sir, your obedient servant,Fred. J. Prescott.
Monsieur A. Soyer,Scutari.
0112/19War Department,20th October, 1855.Sir,—I am directed to convey to you his lordship’s thanks for your communications of the 8th and 22nd September, and 2ndinstant; and, in reply, to inform you, that on your recommendation his lordship has sanctioned an order for 400 stoves to be manufactured by Messrs. Smith and Phillips, of Snow Hill, London; and has given direction that every exertion be used to despatch them at as early a period as possible.I am, Sir, your obedient servant,John Croomes.Monsieur Soyer,Crimea.
0112/19War Department,20th October, 1855.
Sir,—I am directed to convey to you his lordship’s thanks for your communications of the 8th and 22nd September, and 2ndinstant; and, in reply, to inform you, that on your recommendation his lordship has sanctioned an order for 400 stoves to be manufactured by Messrs. Smith and Phillips, of Snow Hill, London; and has given direction that every exertion be used to despatch them at as early a period as possible.
I am, Sir, your obedient servant,John Croomes.
Monsieur Soyer,Crimea.
0112/19War Department,7th December, 1855.Sir,—With reference to your letters of the 10th and 14th November, I am directed to acquaint you that Lord Panmure has pleasure in affording you the facilities you desire in making another visit to the Crimea for the purpose of seeing that a proper use is made of the cooking stoves which have been ordered to be sent out.His lordship has written to Sir W. Codrington, instructing him to allow you the use of a hut, and to extend to you the same advantages which you were afforded under Sir James Simpson’s command; but I am to add, that up to the present time, none of the stoves have been actually dispatched, although it is expected that a portion of them will be ready very shortly.You must exercise your own discretion, therefore, as to the time for your proceeding to the Crimea.I am, Sir, your obedient servant,E. Chumley.Monsieur Soyer,Scutari.
0112/19War Department,7th December, 1855.
Sir,—With reference to your letters of the 10th and 14th November, I am directed to acquaint you that Lord Panmure has pleasure in affording you the facilities you desire in making another visit to the Crimea for the purpose of seeing that a proper use is made of the cooking stoves which have been ordered to be sent out.
His lordship has written to Sir W. Codrington, instructing him to allow you the use of a hut, and to extend to you the same advantages which you were afforded under Sir James Simpson’s command; but I am to add, that up to the present time, none of the stoves have been actually dispatched, although it is expected that a portion of them will be ready very shortly.
You must exercise your own discretion, therefore, as to the time for your proceeding to the Crimea.
I am, Sir, your obedient servant,E. Chumley.
Monsieur Soyer,Scutari.
War Department,25th April, 1856.Sir,—I am directed by Lord Panmure to acknowledge the receipt of your letter dated 31st March, and to express his lordship’s pleasure in learning that the cooking arrangements which you have introduced in the hospitals at Scutari have answered so perfectly.Lord Panmure approves of your presenting one of the stoves to Marshal Pelissier, provided you previously obtain the concurrence of Sir W. Codrington.I am, Sir, your obedient servant,John Croomes.Monsieur Alexis Soyer,Crimea.
War Department,25th April, 1856.
Sir,—I am directed by Lord Panmure to acknowledge the receipt of your letter dated 31st March, and to express his lordship’s pleasure in learning that the cooking arrangements which you have introduced in the hospitals at Scutari have answered so perfectly.
Lord Panmure approves of your presenting one of the stoves to Marshal Pelissier, provided you previously obtain the concurrence of Sir W. Codrington.
I am, Sir, your obedient servant,John Croomes.
Monsieur Alexis Soyer,Crimea.
War Department,6th June, 1856.Sir,—I am directed to acknowledge the receipt of your letter of the 6th ultimo, reporting the success of your field-stoves in the Crimea, and enclosing two receipts for the preparation of food for the army, and to express Lord Panmure’s satisfaction thereon.I am, Sir, your obedient servant,J. Bacon.Monsieur Soyer, &c.,Crimea.
War Department,6th June, 1856.
Sir,—I am directed to acknowledge the receipt of your letter of the 6th ultimo, reporting the success of your field-stoves in the Crimea, and enclosing two receipts for the preparation of food for the army, and to express Lord Panmure’s satisfaction thereon.
I am, Sir, your obedient servant,J. Bacon.
Monsieur Soyer, &c.,Crimea.
After having started them in person, I sent my cooks every morning on their rounds to see if the men followed my instructions, and I visited each regiment daily. The hospitals, thank God, were at this time almost empty. When a division had made use of the stoves about a week, I requested the general commanding that division to inquire of the colonel, officers, and men, their opinion of the results of my labours; and in that manner I acquired the above-mentioned numerous letters of commendation, having in my possession many others, but space will not allow of their insertion.
One of the days on which salt rations were issued, I requested General Garrett to go round his division and ask the men what they did with the fat. This he very kindly did, accompanied by his aide-de-camp, Major Dallas. The first cook we visited, in the 18th Regiment, had rations for 94 men (the whole of his company). They were being cooked in one stove: the two stoves for the same quantity would have been much better, as the more water the meat is boiled in, the more salt is extracted from it. The boiler was filled to the brim, the contents simmering gently: the meat was beautifully cooked. There were about four inches of clear fat, as sweet as butter, floating on the top. The stove was in the open air, and the cook only burnt from ten to fifteen pounds of wood (or hardly so much) to cook for that number—viz., the whole of his company. The allowance of wood had been reduced from 4½lbs. to 3½lbs. per man daily. The advent of peace gave me a full opportunity of thoroughly instructing the men, and thus I was enabled firmly to establish my new system. The saving in wood alone, supposing each company to consist of one hundred men, would, at the former rate of allowance, amount to 450lbs. per company per diem, allowing 25lbs. for cooking, which is ample. This in a regiment of eight companies would make a daily saving of 3600lbs. of wood, independent of the economy of transport, mules, labour, &c. In an army of forty thousand men, it would amount to the immense figure of 180,000lbs., or 90 tons, per day saved to the Government, or 32,850 tons per annum.
General Garrett asked the man what he was going to do with the fat.
“Throw it away, general,” was the answer.
“Throw it away!—why?” said the General.
“I don’t know, sir, but we always do.”
“Why not use it?”—“The men don’t like it, sir.”
I observed that when the salt meat was cooked in the small canteen pans, the fat was lost for want of the necessary quantity of water to allow it to rise to the surface, as well as to purify it of the salt. Asking the man for a leaden spoon and a tin can, I removed the fat as I had before done in the Guards’ camp. On weighing it the next day, I found upwards of 14lbs. of beautiful clean and sweet dripping, fit for use as described in the receipts. Thus about 800lbs. of this were wasted weekly by each regiment—salt rations being issued four days a week.
General Garrett expressed a decided opinion that my apparatus was much superior to the old canteen pan, and gave me a letter, which I append in theAddenda.
The signature of the treaty of peace changed all the proceedings in the camp, except mine; for in anticipation of the distribution of the remainder of the stoves among the various regiments in the camps at Aldershot barracks, &c., as well as to those on foreign stations, I continued my daily course of instruction, in order that the men, upon arrival at home or elsewhere, might be well acquainted with their use, and be able to impart their knowledge to others. I have since hit upon a plan by which I shall introduce an oven and steamer, and thus do all that is required to vary the cooking of the daily meals in barracks—a subject of great importance.
War having ceased, the camp bore the appearance of a monster banqueting-hall. “We have done fighting,” said every one, “so let us terminate the campaign by feasting, lay down our victorious but murderous weapons, and pick up those more useful and restorative arms—the knife and fork.”
All appeared to have caught a giving-parties mania. You could scarcely meet a friend or even a slight acquaintance without being apostrophized by, “When willyou dine with me?” as regularly as though it had been inserted in the order of the day. The first invitation I received was from the witty General Barnard, who so generously entertained his friends, under the superintendence of his major-domo, Captain Barnard (the gallant general’s son). A good table, good wine, and plenty of everything, or at least the best that could be obtained, were provided; and no less than five times had I the honour of being invited to enjoy the noble general’s good cheer. Next came invitations from my noble friend and neighbour, General Garrett, Lord W. Paulet, Colonel de Bathe, Colonel Peel, Major Fielden, Lord Vane, Lord Dunkellin, and the great epicure of epicures, Colonel Haley, of the 47th, &c., &c.; to each and all of whom I cannot but feel grateful—not alone for their liberal welcome, but also for the honour of having been admitted to their friendship.
I could do no less than return the compliment, which was of course expected from me, the Gastronomic Regenerator. The first dinner I gave was honoured by the presence of the following gentlemen—viz., Lord William Paulet, Gen. Garrett, Gen. Wyndham, Gen. Barnard, Col. Halliwell, Col. R. Campbell (90th), Col. Haley (47th), Major Earle, Major Dallas, Captain Barnard, &c.
The bill of fare was as follows:—
Potage à la Codrington.Filet de turbot clouté à la Balaklava.——Quartier de mouton à la bretonne.Poulets à la tartarine.——Queues de bœuf à la ravigotte.Cotelettes de mouton à la vivandière.Rissolettes de volaille à la Pelissier.Filet de bœuf pique mariné, sauce poivrade.——La mayonnaise à la russe, garnis de cavea.——Les plum-puddings à la Cosaque.Les haricots verds à la poulette.Les gelées de citron garni.Les croutes à l’abricot.——La bombe glacé à la Sebastopol.——
Potage à la Codrington.Filet de turbot clouté à la Balaklava.——Quartier de mouton à la bretonne.Poulets à la tartarine.——Queues de bœuf à la ravigotte.Cotelettes de mouton à la vivandière.Rissolettes de volaille à la Pelissier.Filet de bœuf pique mariné, sauce poivrade.——La mayonnaise à la russe, garnis de cavea.——Les plum-puddings à la Cosaque.Les haricots verds à la poulette.Les gelées de citron garni.Les croutes à l’abricot.——La bombe glacé à la Sebastopol.——
Hors-d’œuvres.Les anchoix—sardines—lamproies à l’huile—mortadellede Vérone—olives farcies—thon—cornichons à l’estragon—salade—legumes—dessert—café—liqueurs.
Though there was nothing veryrecherchéin the dinner, it met with the approval of all the guests. The appearance of my humble but originally-decorated hut, profusely lit up with wax lights, and a rather nicely laid-out table, surrounded by military men of high standing, in their various uniforms, was exceedingly novel. The occasion formed quite an epoch in my life, and I shall probably never again have the honour of entertaining such a distinguished circle under similar circumstances. Encouraged by this my first success, I felt in duty bound to continue the series of thesepetites fêtes Anacréontiques, at which were assembled wit, mirth, good appetite, and delightful harmony. Amateur artistes of no little note, who had emerged triumphant from the murky atmosphere produced by the incessant bombardment of Sebastopol, were there. By their exertions the barriers of freedom and civilization were opened to all, and the autocrat Czar was compelled to submit. Those who but a few days before had been enemies were now friends. In fact, the war had ceased, and peace, that mother of sociability, offered her delights freely to all. Care seemed banished from every brow, excepting the sincere regret devoted to the memory of those brave men who had so nobly died for the glory of their country. In addition to the theatres, which had amused the camp throughout the winter, madrigal and glee clubs were instituted. At one of mypetits dîners(at which the filet de bœuf pique mariné was duly discussed and highly praised by my Epicurean guests) the leader of the madrigal club, Colonel de Bathe, proposed that, as I had the largest and most convenient hut for the purpose, besides being well provided with culinary as well as table utensils, as a finale, and to crush the last vestige of sorrow in every one’s heart on account of this memorablewar, I should give a dinner-party, after which the whole of the members of the Crimean Madrigal Club would harmoniously close the evening with a concert. The proposition was unanimously agreed to. I promised my guests to do my best to close the season of war by producing an excellent gastronomic popotte. A general invitation was given, and the day fixed.
When General Lüders courteously invited the French and English generals to honour him with their presence at his famed camp on the well-known Mackenzie Heights, the invitation was accepted for the following day. Everybody was anxious to go, and the invitation being a general one, lucky were they who had heard of it. The next day a stream of general officers of the Allied armies poured towards the Tchernaya Bridge. This was our first friendly meeting with those who had so bravely defended themselves and sacrificed their blood in defence of the national cause: General Lüders himself had lost two of his sons in the battle-field. The reception was grand and interesting, the review imposing, the lunch excellent, the bizarrerie of some very eccentric performance by the Cossacks highly amusing, the weather very fine, and the welcome joyous and hearty. It showed what marvels could be produced by a few strokes from a pen guided by a powerful and prudent hand. Only a few days before, the soil upon which we were treading peacefully was trodden by these same human beings with hearts full of revenge, thirst of blood, and destruction. In place of these, good understanding, as if by magic, restored to each heart the feelings of humanity and religion. Thousands of enemies were in a few minutes changed to hospitable friends. The hostile line of demarcation was now removed, and the camp of our late enemies free to all; and, instead of gaining inch by inch of ground by the sweat of the brow and waste of blood and life, there was welcome for all. Such was the effect produced upon my mind by the advent of peace, after that memorable and sanguinary Eastern war, through which I thank God for sparing my life during my humble mission, in the prosecution of which I had the honourof witnessing the finale of that great European question, in which the honour and glory of mighty nations were deeply involved.
After this solemn day of reception, the fusion of the armies took place. Our camp was invaded by Russians, as theirs was by our men. The works and fortifications, as well as Bakschiserai, Simpheropol, Perekop, &c. &c., were immediately taken without bloodshed. The popping of the well-corked champagne had replaced the monstrous and unsociable voice of the cannon. The sparkling liquid, poured in tin pots or cups—anything but crystal champagne-glasses—seemed to unite all hearts. All the taverns, hotels, inns, huts, marquees, bell tents, &c., had their visitors; and no people more than the Russians proved their immediate attachment to us, by making it a rule not to disoblige any one who asked the favour of their company. Rather than do this, they preferred staying a week, a fortnight, or even a month. This I, as well as some of my friends, had the felicity of experiencing, as often the whole family—father, mother, sons and daughters, horse, cart, and dogs included—would take up their residence with one. Most of us made a pilgrimage to Bakschiserai, Simpheropol, Yalta, and other places, after the proclamation of peace; and, to the honour and credit of the inhabitants, all were received with a cordial welcome, after being first introduced to the governor of the city. Freely indeed was their hospitality bestowed, and it was our duty to return the compliment by an invitation to our camp, which seldom failed to be accepted, and shortly after put in execution, after the style above mentioned.
Justice must also be done to the Tartar families whom we visited, for their liberality and friendship. I never saw a man more put out than one near Bakschiserai on an occasion when a friend and myself had entered a house in order to obtain some refreshment. We there found a very numerous family, among which were three small children, from three to ten years of age. The father, who was an old man, made us understand by telegraphic signs,à la Tartare, that he, and he alone, was the father, which wehad not the slightest objection to believe. Two rather good-looking girls, also daughters, waited attentively upon us, and in less than ten minutes a frugal repast was offered. The old man and his rather young wife gave us to understand that they had laid before us the best they had, for which we, by telegraphic signs, made them comprehend that we were quite pleased and very grateful. When we had satisfied our appetites, we made ready to start, and offered to pay for the accommodation we had received: but scarcely had the English sovereign fallen upon the stone slab before the old father, who was nursing the two youngest scions of his race upon his knees, than he rose up with a spring, dropped the children on the floor, and stroking his long white hair with one hand, made a sign for the sovereign to be immediately returned to the pocket with the other, as if he feared that the heaven towards which his eyes were directed would punish him for violating the laws of hospitality if he accepted the money. We did as he desired, and peace and friendship were at once restored. It was a scene worthy of theDame Blancheof Boieldieu, taken from Sir Walter Scott’sMonastery, where the Highland farmer says to travellers like ourselves, “The Scotch mountaineers dispense their hospitality, but never sell it.”
Soon after this charming incident had occurred, we left our generous host and his fine family in their peaceable dwelling. This love of hospitality did not prevail amongst the retail dealers, who, on the contrary, endeavoured to fleece visitors in every possible way, as if anxious to get one’s skin in order to sell it for what it would fetch. As curiosity had allured us thus far into the bowels of the land, and as we were not particular about trifles, even in money matters, on this auspicious occasion, these human vultures were permitted to gorge themselves at our expense and that of our pockets. Champagne was sold at a pound and more the bottle, stout at ten shillings, and everything else at the same exorbitant rate, but by way of compensation all was of an inferior quality.
Culinary education of the soldier-pupils—Meeting with Miss Nightingale—Reforms in the hospitals—Testimonials—Miss Nightingale’s carriage rescued—That lady’s exertions—Her faith—General Lüders’s visits—Marshal Pelissier—Grand ceremonies—Trip to Yalta—TheAlar—A peculiar position—Rescued at last—A pleasant excursion—Prince Woronzoff’s palace—Dinner at sea—Outside the harbour—The banquet—Wanted at head-quarters—A new dish—“The great Macédoine à l’Alexandre II., or the Contrast of Peace and War”—Decorations—Reviews—The festival—Reflections.
Culinary education of the soldier-pupils—Meeting with Miss Nightingale—Reforms in the hospitals—Testimonials—Miss Nightingale’s carriage rescued—That lady’s exertions—Her faith—General Lüders’s visits—Marshal Pelissier—Grand ceremonies—Trip to Yalta—TheAlar—A peculiar position—Rescued at last—A pleasant excursion—Prince Woronzoff’s palace—Dinner at sea—Outside the harbour—The banquet—Wanted at head-quarters—A new dish—“The great Macédoine à l’Alexandre II., or the Contrast of Peace and War”—Decorations—Reviews—The festival—Reflections.
AStwo or three months had still to elapse before the final evacuation of the Crimea took place, I employed the interval in completing the culinary education of my soldier-pupils, anxious that they might be able to confer the benefit of my instructions upon others, when the remainder of the stoves should be issued either at home or abroad. By the aid of my receipts, which were to be printed upon parchment, framed, and hung up in every barrack kitchen, the cooks could not fail in the proper performance of their duties. I very much regret that, owing to some misunderstanding, one or two regiments did not receive my personal attendance, though I believe they had the stoves. To the colonels of those regiments I beg to offer this as an apology for the apparent neglect, which I assure those gentlemen I can only attribute to some oversight on the part of those I employed to see the stoves shifted from one regiment to the other. It was no easy matter to traverse such an immense space of ground, upon which above forty regiments were encamped; and the difficulty was increased by my having to deal with different persons in each. Although I had several of my own men to go about and assist me, Iwas the responsible person; and all I have to say is, that from six or seven in the morning till night, their humble servant was on horseback, reviewing his various regiments, which, for a bad cavalier, was a great exertion, especially after so severe an illness. Yet to that exertion I believe I owe my recovery, as it enabled me gradually to get the better of a most violent attack of dysentery, which had at one time reduced me so low, that the following civilian doctors, who were my neighbours at Scutari—viz., Messrs. Burn, Howard, and Fraser—were almost inclined to give me up.
Upon my arrival at Balaklava I met Miss Nightingale, who had left Scutari a few days previous to my departure from that place, in order to take the management of two new hospitals, under the superintendence of Dr. Taylor, my Scutari culinary friend. He told me that, to his sorrow, he had completely failed in the construction of the kitchen in those Crimean hospitals, on account of not being able to obtain the necessary utensils, &c. I immediately proposed to set this to rights for him, as I had to build two new extra-diet kitchens at Miss Nightingale’s request. Dr. Taylor accepted my offer, and in less than a week both kitchens were satisfactorily completed, and they were also in full activity. In the extra-diet kitchens Miss Nightingale’s new stoves were adopted. The establishment called the Left Wing Hospital was in charge of the Sisters of Charity; the other, called the Right Wing, in that of Miss Stuart, a most excellent lady, and although of high family, subordinate to Miss Nightingale. During a period of six months, she rendered the greatest service, by ably assisting that lady in her exertions.
I substituted my caldrons for the old ones in the large hospital kitchens. Slight wooden sheds were built to shelter them; and the establishments, at last complete, formed two of the most elegant, cleanly, and useful hospital kitchens in the camp—burning but little wood, instead of always running short, as was the case when the common caldrons, placed upon two stones in a dark stone building which could never be kept clean, were in use.They met with the approval of both Drs. Hall and Taylor. I explained to these gentlemen, that with those stoves and a few planks, an excellent hospital or camp-kitchen could easily be made, instead of the very inferior ones before in use; and that for an army of a hundred thousand men or more, it would only be necessary to increase the number, as the stoves would never get out of repair, and might easily be carried with the army, either on mules, or by any other conveyance which the Land Transport Corps might adopt.
The two following letters confirm the truth of my assertions. The one is from Miss Nightingale, and the other from Dr. Taylor:—
Scutari Barrack Hospital,July 28th, 1856.I have great pleasure in bearing my testimony to the very essential usefulness of Monsieur Soyer, who, first in the General Hospitals of Scutari, and afterwards in the Camp Hospitals of the Crimea, both general and regimental, restored order where all was unavoidable confusion, as far as he was individually able,—took the soldiers’ rations and patients’ diets as they were, and converted them into wholesome and agreeable food.I have tried his stoves in the Crimean hospitals where I have been employed, and found them answer every purpose of economy and efficiency.Florence Nightingale.
Scutari Barrack Hospital,July 28th, 1856.
I have great pleasure in bearing my testimony to the very essential usefulness of Monsieur Soyer, who, first in the General Hospitals of Scutari, and afterwards in the Camp Hospitals of the Crimea, both general and regimental, restored order where all was unavoidable confusion, as far as he was individually able,—took the soldiers’ rations and patients’ diets as they were, and converted them into wholesome and agreeable food.
I have tried his stoves in the Crimean hospitals where I have been employed, and found them answer every purpose of economy and efficiency.
Florence Nightingale.
Monsieur Soyer’s cooking-stoves have been solely used in the Right and Left Wing Hospitals, Light Infantry Corps, during the last three months for the regimental hospital diets, for which they are admirably adapted as regards despatch, cleanliness, and economy.G. Taylor, M.D.,S. Surgeon, 1st Class.Crimea, 5th July, 1856.
Monsieur Soyer’s cooking-stoves have been solely used in the Right and Left Wing Hospitals, Light Infantry Corps, during the last three months for the regimental hospital diets, for which they are admirably adapted as regards despatch, cleanliness, and economy.
G. Taylor, M.D.,S. Surgeon, 1st Class.
Crimea, 5th July, 1856.
It was on the way to these hospitals that the vehicle conveying Miss Nightingale and her nurses was upset, and they all had a most miraculous escape. It was drawn by a mule, and no doubt driven by a donkey, who drove over a large stone, and thus caused the accident.
One of the nurses was severely wounded. After this accident, Colonel Macmurdo gave Miss Nightingale the carriage, a sketch of which appeared in theIllustrated London Newsof the 30th August, 1856. Upon leaving the Crimea, after a long search, I succeeded in rescuing it from the hands of some Tartar Jews, as I consideredit a precious relic for present and future generations. The Jews were going to purchase it the next day among a lot of common carts, harness, horses, &c. I called upon Colonel Evans, of the Light Infantry Corps, and spoke to him upon the subject, when he kindly allowed me to purchase it. I sent it to England by theArgo, and the sketch was taken on board that ship by Landells, the artist of that journal. It arrived and was safely landed at Southampton; and Mr. Andrews, the mayor of that city, very kindly allowed the carriage to remain in his warehouse till my return to England.
The extraordinary exertions Miss Nightingale imposed upon herself after receiving this carriage would have been perfectly incredible, if not witnessed by many and well ascertained. I can vouch for the fact, having frequently accompanied her to the hospitals as well as to the monastery. The return from these places at night was a very dangerous experiment, as the road led across a very uneven country. It was still more perilous when snow was upon the ground. I have seen that lady stand for hours at the top of a bleak rocky mountain near the hospitals, giving her instructions, while the snow wasfalling heavily. I observed this to the Rev. Mr. Holt, who accompanied her almost daily as her clerical orderly, as he called himself, and he admitted that it was very imprudent on her part. All one could say to her on the subject was so kindly received, that you concluded you had persuaded her to take more care of herself. Yet she always went on in the same way, having probably forgotten good advice in her anxiety for the comfort of the sick.
I often warned her of the danger she incurred in returning so late at night, with no other escort than the driver. She answered by a smile, which seemed to say, “You may be right, but I have faith.” So impressed was I with a sense of the magnitude of the danger she was daily incurring, that I addressed a letter to a noble duchess, who, I knew, had much influence with her.
It was reported that the Russian general, Lüders, intended to pay Marshal Pelissier a visit at the French head-quarters, and that the general and his Staff were to be received at the Tchernaya Bridge at seven in the morning. As I had that day to go to the Highland Brigade at Kamara, accompanied by one of my cooks, we started at five; and after receiving the popottes at the various regiments, I left my artiste and galloped to the bridge.
I found about thirty thousand troops drawn up in line, extending from the bridge to General Pelissier’s head-quarters. After the salvo of artillery, a most warm reception was given by General MacMahon to General Lüders, both commanders-in-chief remaining at the French head-quarters to receive him. The cavalcade, consisting of French and Russians, set off at a hard gallop along the line of French troops, which extended about four miles. The discharges of cannon and the firing of musketry never ceased. The day was a brilliant one, and the sun’s rays glittered upon the helmets, swords, cuirasses, and bayonets, reflecting myriads of diamonds in the air. The various uniforms of the Staff which accompanied General Lüders, and in particular that of the Cosaques du Don, gave to this martial and animated scene anéclathardly ever witnessedeven at the grandest review, which is generally held on a flat surface, this being cheerfully accidented by hillock and dale. On such occasions, the army is generally formed in square, instead of being in a long line eight files deep on one side only, as on the occasion to which I now refer. The reception by General Pelissier was brilliant, and worthy of that offered to him on the Mackenzie Heights a few days previous.
Amongst the excursions we had projected was one which had been some time pending. It was to be a trip to Yalta by water, where we intended to spend a couple of days. A vessel had been provided, the provisions were ordered, and guests in abundance were invited. A series of fine days had followed, and the whole management was placed in the hands of the person with whom the idea of the excursion originated, the Rev. Mr. Parker. What man amongst the numbers in the Crimea did not know that distinguished, enterprising, and worthy man? His fame extended far and wide, and he was equally celebrated for his benevolence and intelligence; and he never saw a difficulty in anything he undertook, from the building of a church to an hospital, a hut, kitchen, or an ice-house. Workmen and materials were found by him, people hardly knew how or where. Under his clerical wand, wooden palaces were erected, not without difficulty, but still the work was accomplished. If any good provisions arrived in the harbour, the worthy minister was the first to hear of it, and, to oblige his friends, made all inquiries and obtained every information respecting price and quality. Like all clever men, he was fond of good living, and was not at all a bad judge of the good things of this life. It was during the time that he officiated at Balaklava, that the church, which once had the appearance of a barn, was changed into a handsome religious edifice. Sebastopol had fallen, and, as a trophy, one of the bells of the Greek church ornamented his building, and called the faithful to their duty as regularly as the peal of any parish church. He was, in fact, the perfection of theaumônier du régiment; but, as in the case of all great geniuses, now and then,success was followed by failure, and victory by defeat—which the following will prove.
The day for the excursion had been fixed, postponed, and was again decided upon. For this change of plan I cannot account; no doubt it was owing to some unavoidable cause. At length the day was finally settled; there was to be no more postponing—off we must go. Our vessel was called theAlar, and she belonged to Mr. Crockford. As she was very small and short of accommodation, she was soon filled above and below. The evening before we were to start, the news of a great event for the following day was published in General Orders. It was to the effect that General Lüders would honour General Codrington with his presence at a grand review. This favour was not so highly appreciated by the nautical tourists as by their gallant Commander-in-chief, as at that time it materially interfered with their anticipated excursion. At all events, a serious discussion took place as to whether the excursion would or would not be postponed on that account. The answer “would not!” resounded in the camp from regiment to regiment, like amot d’ordre, and the final order to all was, not to be on board a minute after eight o’clock; but theAlar, by way of punctuality, started at half-past seven. I sent two of my cooks to the vessel, but they never saw anything of the boat. A few minutes before eight o’clock, the Rev. Mr. Parker, myself, and others, got into a Maltese boat to join the steamer; instead of which, the steamer joined us. Not thanking either theAlarnor her captain for their trouble in coming to us instead of allowing us to go to them, the reverend gentleman and three more bravely boarded her, and in so doing kicked our bark away, and left us, in consequence of the swell caused by the motion of the paddle-wheels, very unsafely dancing an entirely new hornpipe in the harbour of Balaklava. At last, by the assistance of a large wave which nearly capsized us all, I managed to get hold of the man-rope by one hand; this happened to be the left one, so I could not raise myself on board, and there I was left hanging over the infuriated waves, thevessel all the while increasing her speed. As a precaution in walking through the wet fields, I had put on my India-rubber boots, which dipping in the water, soon became as slippery as a second-hand leech which will not take or bite at anything. The confusion on board the vessel, already a wreck, having been just dismasted in a serious collision with a larger steamer, prevented the people on board from perceiving my perilous position. My strength was rapidly becoming exhausted, and I must in a second or two have fallen into the water, when a reverend gentleman, whose name I regret to say I cannot recall, saw the imminent danger in which I was placed, and rescued me. Thanks to his assistance, I managed to lay hold of another rope with my right hand. I fancied I could travel miles in that position, it appeared to be so safe. Other assistance arrived, and a few minutes after I was hauled upon deck, scrambling amongst the wreck and loose ropes. A friendly voice addressed me with, “Hallo, Soyer! you are behind time.”
I replied, “I should have preferred being later still, and not have come at all.”
When the incident was known on board, it caused much merriment among our fellow-adventurers. As we were going on pleasure, all were allowed to laugh at the various adventures, as well as misadventures, of the party so I laughed, and all laughed, soon afterwards, and very heartily. We were no sooner out of the harbour, than the good shipAlar, which had not received her proper quantum of breakfast or ballast in her wooden or iron stomach, began her hanky-panky rolling tricks, which never ceased from the time we started till our return. Breakfast was ready and upon the table; but, for some unaccountable reason, no one appeared ready for breakfast. As we were out upon a pleasure excursion, each person was at liberty to enjoy himself in his own way. Some did this by remaining upon deck, others by looking overboard, &c., till at length the generous sun, taking pity upon us, threw out his beams and guided us round the beautiful rocky coast of the Balaklava and Lukan shores. A few glasses of champagne were circulated, healths werepledged, and everything got cheerful and lively; and the joy had even extended to some of the ladies on board.
Indeed, reader, I have not yet had time to introduce our fair companions to your notice; but I will do so shortly. Some of them actually went so far as to ask me what I thought was good for dinner. “Upon my word,” said I to my fair interlocutor, “I do not know what will be good, madam, but I’ll tell you what will be bad. Look behind you at that black cloud which seems to follow us so closely: I have no doubt that is a squall coming, which will soon spoil our bill of fare as well as our appetites.”
In about half-an-hour we came in sight of the beautiful Palace of Lukan, belonging to Prince Woronzoff. A short time before, we had anticipated landing and being able to dine in the gardens. This was rendered impossible, as the weather had assumed a very tempestuous aspect, and bore every appearance of a violent storm. Many began to think of a second wreck, and quite lost the idea of dining. The steamer was put about in a very unsociable gale of wind, which, thank God, dropped shortly after, and allowed us, after several attempts, to return safely to our harbour. This, considering the state theAlarwas in after the accident she had met with, she ought not to have left, especially upon a pleasure-trip.
My friend, Mr. Frederick Crockford, who so kindly lent his boat, assisted me, and we set to work during our stormy return to prepare the dinner, which we had decided should be got ready, although almost every one on board was ill. So we began our fantastic and gymnastic culinary exertions by looking up the stores; and by dint of a wonderful amount of animal and physical perseverance, we managed to dish up two turkeys, a number of fowls, hams, roast lamb, tongues, roast beef, plum-puddings, salad, dessert, &c. &c., and cut bread enough for more thanà discrétion. The reader will please to observe that it was by this time late in the afternoon, and theAlarsylph was rolling quite sufficiently to prevent any willing turkey from remaining upon the dish,when a tremendous wave came to its aid, and sent three parts of our luxuries rolling about the cabin-floor, breaking no end of plates, dishes, bottles, glasses, &c. Fortunately, our dinner was not lost, as we knew where it was—rolling to and fro on the wet cabin-floor, playing at the don’t-you-wish-you-may-get-me game. Mr. Crockford and myself had succeeded in making a semi-monster lobster salad, which for safety he had held on to all the time, almost at the peril of his valuable life, he being knocked about fearfully against the cabin-boards and bulkheads. At last we made the harbour. It was nearly dusk; and not being expected back so soon, nor even the next day, we were kept dancing for above an hour at the entrance. No doubt, this was done to sharpen our appetites.
A rumour was circulated that we should not be allowed to enter at all, theAlarbeing a merchant-vessel. This was our fate till about six o’clock, when signals were made for her to enter. We availed ourselves of this permission, and in twenty minutes the two large tables were set outà la marinière. Everybody was glad to partake of the most welcome repast ever bestowed upon a party after the enjoyment of so charming a day of pleasure. Thesalade mayonnaisewas voted excellent. Champagne was gaily flowing in bowls, basins, teacups, goblets, &c. Healths were proposed; her Majesty’s first—next that of the Allied armies—then that of the Emperor of the French, Mr. Crockford’s and mine, in honour of thesalade mayonnaise; and a vote of thanks was returned to the Rev. Mr. Parker, for the extremely pleasant day he had been the cause of our enjoying, especially the dinner in the harbour he had so well provided, which soon made us forget our nautical tribulations.
I have almost forgotten the members of the fair sex, whose health was proposed in the first place. They had been very ill all day. About eleven, all, except myself, had left theAlarin the full conviction of having enjoyed themselves very much indeed. Among the party, which would have been far too numerous, had not circumstances preventedmany of those invited from making their appearance, were Commissary Drake, lady and daughter; Mr. and Mrs. Burnett. Lady Seymour and friend, who were to accompany the party, did not come. This is the sum-total of the ladies present, which for the Crimea was a very fair array of thebeau sexe. As it was impossible for me to return to camp that evening, the captain and Mr. Crockford offered me a bed on board. I of course jumped at the offer. About one o’clock we were drinking a parting glass, when a boat was heard approaching the vessel, and a voice called out—
“Alarahoy! Is Monsieur Soyer still on board?”
“Yes,” was the answer.
In a few seconds, a gentleman, whom I recognised as my friend Captain Brown of theOttowa, stepped on board.
“Hallo, captain!” I exclaimed, “what ever has brought you on board at this time of night?”
“I will tell you. They have sent for you from head-quarters, and you have been sought in all directions. Captain Ponsonby has been looking everywhere for you. A grand déjeûner is to be given to-morrow in honour of General Lüders’ visit. I happened to hear of it where I dined and knowing theAlarhad returned with you on board, I have come to inform you that your aid is required. By the bye, you were suspended a long time this morning between wind and water: I made so sure you could not hold on much longer, that I had one of my sailors ready to jump over and pick you up.”
“Thanks, captain, for two eminent services in one day. I cannot, however, go to head-quarters till morning, as I have no pony at Balaklava.”
“All right,” said he. “Call upon Major Ross in the morning; he will let you have all you require.”
“At daybreak I will be there.”
“Mind, the lunch is to be ready at two o’clock.”
“I shall not be able to assist much, as there will hardly be time to turn round. However, good-night, captain, and a thousand thanks.”
“I’m off in a few hours for Constantinople,” he calledout from his boat, “and shall be back in a week. Good-bye.”
The sentinels, as usual, cried—“All’s well.” I must say, I did not think it was all well with me. “What can I do,” said I to myself, “for an event of historical importance?” Neither Mr. Crockford nor the captain could assist me, when an idea struck me:—“If you can’t give me an idea,” said I to my friends, “at any rate lend me a dish.”
“That I will,” said the captain.
“Recollect, I want a large one.”
“You had the largest for your salad yesterday.”
“That one will do; it will hold enough for twenty-five persons.
“Then here goes,” said I, writing. “To-day I shall dress in it theMacédoine Lüdersienne à l’Alexandre II.”
“A very good name in honour of the event,” said Mr. Crockford. “But pray, of what is it to be composed?”
“Oh! for that,” said I, “if I were to implore the Genius of Gastronomy, from Lucullus to Apicius and Vitellius, or Vatel to Ude and Carême, I could get nothing from them but inspiration; while what I require is something substantial, and not artificial. It strikes me that a word from you to your head man at Kadikoi (as you will not be there to-morrow) would do more for me in a few minutes than the whole of those defunct celebrities, whom I am not now inclined to trouble upon so material a subject. Pray give mecarte blancheto get anything you may have and I require for the composition of this modern Babylon, which must be constructed upon a base sufficiently strong to resist the joint attack of the heads of three of the most powerful armies in the world, and only be destroyed after having conquered the conqueror’splace d’armes, the stomach, so called in military parlance.”
The order was readily given by my friend Mr. Crockford, and we then lay down to sleep, being both completely exhausted with the fatigues of what was called a day of pleasure. We had hardly closed our eyelids, when morning caused them to be reopened; so up we got. My friend started for Constantinople, and I for head-quarters.On my way I called upon Major Ross, who kindly lent me a pony, and told me of the message left with him. I started immediately—bought a few things in Balaklava market—called at Crockford’s store at Donnybrook, which I ransacked and despoiled of condiments of every description. Instead of going direct to head-quarters, I changed my mind and went home to prepare, having decided, as the time was so short, to produce one good dish only, instead of several small and insignificant ones. This was, however, to be worthy of the occasion. I was well aware that General Codrington’s cook, under the liberal management and command of Captain Ponsonby, would turn out something worthy of the event. Upon arriving at my hut, I sent two of my cooks to assist him, despatched my groom on horseback to Kamiesch for various things, and then began the construction of myLüdersienneupon the lid of my new field-stoves, the dish I had brought from theAlarbeing too small.
My novel dish was completed, and carried to head-quarters by two soldiers; and at a quarter to two I personally placed my culinary wonder upon the table. It was called