Second-class Bouillabaisse.—Use gurnet, plaice, soles, &c. Bouillabaisse may be made also of fresh-water fish, such as perch, tench, trout, and pike, proceeding precisely as above; if the broth is required for an invalid, omit the wine and some of the seasoning, according to the order of the doctor.
No. 78.—Soyer’s Crimean Cup a la Wyndham.
Thinly peel the rind of half an orange, put it into a bowl with a tablespoonful of crushed sugar, and macerate with the ladle for a minute; then add one large wine-glass of Maraschino, half one of Cognac, half one of Curaçoa. Mix well together, pour in two bottles of soda-water, and one of champagne, during which time work it up and down with the punch ladle, and it is ready.
Half a pound of Wenham Lake ice, if to be procured, is a great improvement.
No. 79.—Soyer’s Balaklava Nectar.
Thinly peel the rind of half a lemon, shred it fine, and put it in a punch-bowl; add 2 tablespoonfuls of crushed sugar and the juice of 2 lemons, the half of a small cucumber sliced thin with the peel on; toss it up several times, then add 2 bottles of soda-water, 2 of claret, 1 of champagne, stir well together and serve.
No. 80.—Pierce’s Claret and Champagne Cup a la Brunow.
This gentleman, whose excellent and useful book I have quoted in the body of this work, has favoured me with the following claretand champagne cup, which ought, from its excellency, to be called, the nectar of the Czar, as it is so highly appreciated in Russia, where for many years it has enjoyed a high reputation amongst the aristocracy of the Muscovite empire.
To three bottles of claret, take two-thirds of a pint of Curaçoa, one pint of sherry, half ditto of brandy, two wine-glasses of ratafia, three oranges, and one lemon, cut in slices; some sprigs of green balm, ditto of borage, a small piece of rind of cucumber, two bottles of German Seltzer-water, three ditto of soda-water; stir this together, and sweeten with capillaire or pounded sugar until it ferments, let it stand one hour, strain it, and ice it well; it is then fit for use.
The same for Champagne Cup.—Champagne instead of claret; noyeau instead of ratafia.
This quantity is for an evening party of forty persons. For a smaller number reduce the proportions.
1.—Melted Butter.
Put 2oz. of butter in a stew-pan holding about a quart, and 2oz. of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter one of pepper; mix together with a spoon till forming a thick paste, add a pint of cold water, place all on a fire, stir continually; take the pan off the fire when it simmers; add another of fresh butter in it, stir till melted; it is then ready for use. A little grated nutmeg and a drop of vinegar is an improvement. This sauce being the base of so many others, requires attention in making, and as flour will sometimes be stronger than at others, and likely to make it too thin or too thick, take for a rule that the proper thickness when done ought to form a transparent coating over the back of the spoon.
2.—Beurre a la Maitre d’Hotel, or Hotel Keeper’s Butter.
Put on a plate a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a quarter of a spoonful of salt, ditto of pepper, two of chopped parsley, the juice of a middle-sized lemon (if no lemon, use vinegar), and a little grated nutmeg; mix well together, and keep in a cool place till required. This is excellent with kidneys and all broiled meats. Nutmeg may be omitted.
3.—Anchovy Butter, or Beurre d’Anchoix.
Take 6 anchovies from a bottle, scrape and wash them, pound and pulp them, or bruise them on a board; mix 6oz. of fresh butter, pass through a sieve, and use when required. Keep the sauce in a cold place.
4.—Chervil and Tarragon Butter.
To 2oz. of butter add a teaspoonful of chopped chervil and tarragon; add salt, pepper, a little cayenne, 1 tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, or the juice of half a lemon.
5.—Pimento, or Chili Butter.
For 2oz. of butter put a teaspoonful of chilies chopped fine, 1 of parsley, a scrape of garlic as large as a pea; add to it half a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, and the juice of half a lemon; mix well.
6.—Shalot Butter.
Put a quarter of a pound of butter and a teaspoonful of chopped shalot in a dish, a little cayenne, salt, pepper, half a teaspoonful of mustard, the juice of a lemon; mix together.
7.—Black Butter, or Beurre Noir.
Put 2oz. of butter in a stewpan, set it on the fire till it acquires a brownish colour, throw in about 20 parsley leaves, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of pepper; boil together one minute. It is also excellent with boiled mackerel and skate.
8.—Onion Sauce, or Sauce a la Tripe.
Peel and cut 6 onions in slices, put them in a stewpan with 2oz. of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar, half one of pepper; place on a slow fire to simmer till in pulp, stirring now and then, to prevent getting brown; add a tablespoonful of flour, a pint of milk, and boil till of a proper thickness. This sauce should be a little thicker than melted butter.
9.—Curry Sauce.
Peel and cut 2 middling-sized onions in slices, 1 apple, cut in dice, and an ounce of bacon; put them in a stewpan with two ounces of butter; put it on the fire and fry gently for five or six minutes; add 3 teaspoonfuls of flour, 1 of curry powder, moisten with a pint and a half of milk, add half a teaspoonful of salt, and 1 of sugar; boil till rather thick; pass through a sieve, and serve with any article requiring curry sauce.
10.—Bread Sauce.
Put in a stewpan 4 tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, a quarter of one of salt, an eighth of pepper, 6 pepper corns; peel a small onion, cut it in four, add it to the crumbs, with half a pint of milk and half an ounce of butter. Boil for ten minutes, and you will have an excellent sauce. Add more milk if requisite.
11.—Maitre d’hotel Sauce.
Mix 2oz. of maître d’hôtel butter to half a pint of hot melted butter sauce, and shake, and when the butter is melted it is ready.
12.—Relishing Sauce,
For broiled bones, fowls, meat, fish, &c. &c.
Put a tablespoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan, with 1 of Chili vinegar, 1 of common vinegar, 3 of water, 2 of mushroom ketchup, 2 of Harvey’s sauce, 1 of anchovies; add to it a pint of melted butter, as receipt No. 1; let it simmer until it adheres to the back of the spoon; add half a teaspoonful of sugar; it is then ready for use. The many ingredients found in this are always to be obtained in every tavern.
13.—Tomato Sauce.
Cut in dice 2oz. of lean ham or bacon, put either in a stewpan, with 2oz. of butter, a sliced onion, a few sprigs of parsley, 4 peppercorns, and 1 bay-leaf; fry on the fire till getting slightly brown; add in then about 2lb. of fresh tomatoes, cut across, lightly extract the seed; let them stew about fifteen minutes, or till in pulp; add to it 2 tablespoonfuls of flour; mix well; then about a pint of broth or milk, a teaspoonful of salt, quarter that of pepper, one of sugar, a sprinkle of cayenne, boil all ten minutes; pass through a sieve or colander; put them back again in the stewpan; give another boil, it is then ready for use when required. A tablespoonful of ketchup may be added; also a piece of glaze, if handy.
14.—Semi-Sultana.
Add 3 tablespoonfuls to 1 pint of thin melted butter; boil a few minutes; it is then ready.
15.—Piccalilly Sauce.
Cut in slices, or in small dice, 2oz. of mixed pickles, called piccalilly, add it to half a pint melted butter, with 2 tablespoonfuls of liqueur, and use when required.
16.—Browning for Sauces.
Put half a pound of brown sugar into an iron saucepan, and melt it over a moderate fire for about twenty-five minutes, stirring it continually, until quite black, but it must become so by degrees, or too sudden a heat will make it bitter, then add two quarts of water, and in ten minutes the sugar will be dissolved. Bottle for use.
17.—New Mayonnaise Sauce.
Put a quarter of a pint of melted aspic or savoury jelly upon ice in a stew-pan, which keep whisking until becoming a white froth, then add half a pint of salad oil and six spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, by degrees—first oil and then vinegar, continually whisking until it forms a white smooth sauce, to all appearance like a cream; seasonwith half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, and a little sugar; whisk it a little more, and it is ready to serve; it is usually dressed pyramidically over the article it is served with. The advantage of this sauce (which is more delicate than any other) is, that you may dress it to any height you like, and it will remain so for a long time; if the temperature is not too hot, it will remain hours without melting or appearing greasy.
No. 18.—Mussulman Sauce.
Put in a pint stew-pan two yolks of eggs, a quarter of a pound of butter, a quarter teaspoonful of salt, half that of pepper, the juice of a middling-sized lemon; put on a slow fire, and stir round quickly till the whole forms a thick rich sauce; it is then ready for using. This must be done extremely quick, else it will turn to oil; two minutes will do it. If too thick, add a drop of milk.
19.—Tomatoes, American Way.
Cut the tomatoes in two, leaving the seeds and juice in; cut a middling-sized onion in dice, pass it in butter till slightly browned; add the tomatoes, salt, pepper, a teaspoonful of vinegar, and sufficient bread-crumbs to thicken them; stew gently for twenty minutes, and serve with roast meat or poultry.
Bread Crumbs.—Take a piece of the crumb of a stale loaf, not too hard, put it in a cloth, bruise it with your hand well, till it falls in crumbs; pass it through either a wire sieve or colander, and use when required.
20.—How to melt Fat.
Take 3 or 4lbs. of either beef or mutton suet, cut in small dice; put in a stewpan, with half a pint of water; place on the fire to melt, stirring now and then; when the suet turns to a light yellow colour, pour it through a colander, which you have already placed in a basin, press the suet with the back of a spoon to extract the oil of the fat; it is then ready for use, and will keep a long time without spoiling; you may fry many times with the same.
21.—Chopping of Herbs, Parsley, Chervil, &c.
This may appear a very simple thing to do well, yet it is often done badly, by which the flavour is lost. The herbs should be well washed and dried, and then the leaves taken in the left hand, pressing upon them with your fingers, and chop as fine as possible, not by placing the point of the knife on the board, and raising it and letting it fall, but with a good sharp cut, so that they are cut, not pressed. Onions should be peeled, and cut in halves lengthwise, and then with a thin knife cut each half in slices, leaving them joined at the root; again cut into slices contrariwise, and then from top to bottom; thus having cut into very small squares, chop it with both hands with the knife. You may also wash them. When half-chopped, press them in a cloth, and chop them still finer, and use when required. Proceed the same for shalots.
HAVINGpromised a friend, when first I commenced this work, that I would insert in its pages a number of receipts for the poor, I fulfil my obligation by re-publishing some receipts which I first brought out in the year of the famine, 1847; and with all the intention I had of still further simplifying them I find their improvement an impossibility. I have, however, withdrawn some receipts of dishes, which were only applicable to that period, and I have at the same time introduced a few new ones, which I feel confident will tend to the comfort of humble families.
In making the receipts Nos. 1 and 2 public, I did not suppose that they would meet with the entire approbation of the nation, particularly by those who imagine that nothing can be good except plenty of animal food is used for the subsistence of man. I shall not enter into a culinary digression to prove it, but I am so satisfied of thefailureof the quantity of nourishment generally obtained by those who cannot make anything good, even with plenty, for want of having the practical judgment, that I make bold to affirm, that the little animal substance I recommend, if closely followed, will produce all the nourishment requisite when amalgamated in the way described.
As regards the peelings and ends of vegetables which I use in my receipts, it is a well-known fact, that the exterior of every vegetable, roots in particular, contains more flavour than the interior of it; which is my reason for recommending only the washing well of those vegetables before they are cut for use, thereby increasing the vegetable produce of the country, and using that which has hitherto only increased the “malaria” of our courts and alleys by its decomposition.
Having thus explained my reasons, I now give publicity to my receipts for making soups and other dishes in this form; which I trust will prove useful to the benevolent and the whole laborious and industrious population of the county, and produce economy in all charitable institutions, and comfort in every cottage.
Almost all the productions of nature can be made available, and produce wholesome and nutritious food for man. The following is a short list, taking them in rotation, according to the quantity of nutriment they contain:—Beef, mutton, venison, pork, veal, lamb, hare, rabbits, bacon, lard, dripping, butter, oil:of farinaceoussubstances,[38]Indian corn, wheat, rice, barley, rye, buck-wheat, oats, peas, beans, lentils: ofvegetables and roots—yams, potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, parsnips, turnips, carrots, mangel wurzel, onions, leeks, green peas, cauliflowers, celery, kelp, Irish moss, dillisk, French beans, greens, spinach, sorrel, salads of all kinds:of condiments—as salt, pepper, cayenne, curry, chilies, mustard, allspice, mace, cloves, ginger, cinnamon, &c.:of herbs—savory, parsley, mint, thyme, marjoram, basil, bay-leaf, and all sorts, both culinary and medicinal, or their essences, all of which, when properly blended with food, add to its nourishing qualities; but the grand secret is, to obtain from the above all the nutriment they possess, which is done by following my receipts, and reducing the animal and vegetable substances to a glaze, and mixing it with the farinaceous, and thereby obtaining a palatable and agreeable food, and economizing the productions of nature to an immense extent; for, by the system at present adopted, more than fifty per cent. of the animal and vegetable productions are lost, and the nutriment from the farinaceous ingredients is rendered less, in consequence of being unpalatable. In my visits to the different charitable institutions of this city, I have been surprised at the want of knowledge manifested in making of soups. In some parishes, I found 100 pounds of meat, cut into pieces of a quarter of a pound each, put into 100 gallons of water, at twelve o’clock of one day, to be boiled until twelve o’clock the next day; by such proceedings the osmazome of the meat is lost by evaporation from the boiler, and only the gelatine and fibrine is left; the former has been proved by a medical board, instituted at Paris, for the purpose of inquiring into the subject, to contain no nutriment whatever, and the latter contains about the same as a piece of dry wood. What would be said of a cook who would put a quarter of a pound of meat, or even a piece weighing thirty pounds, to roast before a large fire for twenty-four hours? What nutriment would it contain at the end of that period? My principle is easily illustrated by putting twelve onions into a gallon of water, and boiling them for as many hours; no smell arises from it; but cut the half of one, and fry it, and the perfume will be diffused over the whole house: thus I extract the aroma of every ingredient which I employ, and any one carefully following the receipts will produce a palatable and nourishing food.
The old plan of soaking farinaceous ingredients is not bad, but in many instances it cannot be practised, in which case I would recommend that peas be put into soft boiling water,[39]and that the ebullition does not cease until the peas are reduced to a pulp. Indian meal must also be put into boiling water, and be well boiled for two hours. Rice and barley may be put into cold water, and be boiled until they can be easily mashed between the fingers; the length oftime depends upon their quality.—All kinds of food made of farinaceous ingredients, as Indian meal, peas, rice, &c., increase in quantity when made the day previous, and require more water when warmed up.
It will be perceived that I have omitted all kinds of spice except in those dishes which are intended expressly for them, as I consider they only flatter the appetite and irritate the stomach, and make it crave for more food; my object being not to create an appetite but to satisfy it; and when those dishes in which spice is introduced are given to the poor, it should only be done by the advice of the medical man; but in those cases where they have been accustomed to have them, they must be reduced by degrees until their taste is brought round to that point most conducive to health.
No. 1.—For Two Gallons.
I first put two ounces of dripping into a saucepan (capable of holding two gallons of water), with a quarter of a pound of leg of beef without bones,[40]cut into square pieces of about an inch; and two middling-sized onions, peeled and sliced; I then set the saucepan over a coal fire, and stirred the contents round for a few minutes with a wooden (or iron) spoon until fried lightly brown. I had then ready washed the peeling of two turnips, fifteen green leaves or tops of celery, and the green part of two leeks; (the whole of which, I must observe, are always thrown away.) Having cut the above vegetables into small pieces, I threw them into the saucepan with the other ingredients, stirring them occasionally over the fire for another ten minutes; then added one quart of cold water, and three quarters of a pound of common flour, and half a pound of pearl barley, mixing all well together; I then added seven quarts of hot water, seasonedwith three ounces of salt, and a quarter of an ounce of brown sugar, stirred occasionally until boiling, and allowed it to simmer very gently for three hours; at the end of which time I found the barley perfectly tender. The above soup has been tasted by numerous noblemen, members of parliament, and several ladies who have lately visited my kitchen department, and who have considered it very good and nourishing.
This soup will keep several days when made as above described; but I must observe, not to keep it in a deep pan, but in rather a flat vessel, where the air could act freely upon it. Stir it now and then, until nearly cold: or otherwise the next day it will be in a state of fermentation: this does not denote the weakness of the soup, because the same evil exists with the very strongest of stock, or sauce, if not stirred, or if confined in a warm place—(a fact known to every first-rate cook).
The expenses make it come to three farthings per quart in London; but, as almost everything can be had at less cost in the country, the price of this soup will be still more reduced. In that case a little additional meat might be used, and by giving away a small portion of bread or biscuit, better support would be given to the poor at a trifling cost, and no one, it is to be hoped, hereafter, would hear of the dreadful calamity of starvation.
The same for one hundred gallons, to be made in the boilers, such as are given by the different relief committees, or in any other vessel, either iron or copper, in general use.
Have ready a spatula, or a piece of board the shape of a cricket-bat, about six inches wide, tapering towards the top as a handle (which must be from one foot and a half to two feet above the surface of the vessel), to stir with; take twelve pounds of solid meat, or sixteen pounds with the bones (legs or clods of beef are excellent for the purpose, but any kind of edible meat, from beef to doe venison will do), cut in pieces about one inch square; put thedripping[41]in the boiler; light the fire; when the fat is melted, add the onions: fry ten minutes, stirring it all the time; add the vegetables and the meat; fry for twenty minutes, or until a thick glaze is produced; then add the salt and sugar, and four gallons of cold water; then add the flour; keep stirring quickly, until quite smooth; add the barley, and fill by degrees with hot water;[42]boil for three hours, or until the barley is quite tender, and serve.[43]
In case either the barley or rice does not produce the thickness required (as those ingredients may differ in quality), then add, if too thin, a few pounds of flour or oatmeal, previously mixed with cold water, to make it in a liquid batter, and pour it in when boiling about twenty minutes before serving it out. But the proper thickness is easily ascertained when the soup hangs lightly on the back of the spatula or ladle, and near the consistence of a thin stirabout.
No. 2.—For Two Gallons.
Take two ounces of either dripping, American lard, or suet, to which add the turnips or carrots; fry for ten minutes, add one quart of cold water and the meal, well mixing, and moisten by degrees with seven quarts of hot water; boil for two hours, and season with three ounces of salt, one quarter ounce of brown sugar, one teaspoonful of black pepper,two dropsof essence of garlic,one dropof essence of mint, one drop of essence of celery; stir quickly, and serve directly.
Receipt No. 3.
For those who have the chance of procuring a few potatoes once a week, they may be used with advantage in the following manner:—
Having prepared the soup according to Receipt No. 2, when nearly done, wash a pound of potatoes, pick out the black spots, if any, and cut them in very small dice; put them into the soup to boil for twenty minutes, or a little longer, until done, and the soup is ready, and will strongly taste of potato; the short time of ebullition preserving all the aroma of that inconstant root.
Having promised to make my receipts public, for the benefit of the laborious classes of society, as well as for the poor, I think that if a man could treat his family once a week with a food called potato soup, each member of it, who had previously fed on that root, and who arenownearly deprived of that food, would worship the day of the week when such a luxury should be displayed on their humble table.
Receipt No. 4.
Have a quarter of a pound of fat bacon[44]cut into dice, peel and slice two good-sized onions, or three small ones, and put both into a stewpan, with one ounce of dripping; fry them gently until lightly brown, then add two ounces of turnips, two ounces of carrots, and one ounce of leeks, and one ounce of celery; cut them thin and slanting (but, as I have before observed, any kind of vegetable will answer the purpose, if the same proportion is used); fry for ten minutes, and fill up with seven quarts of water, and, when boiling, add a pound and a quarter of split peas, and let them simmer for two or three hours, until reduced to a pulp, which depends on the quality of the pea; then add two ounces of salt, half an ounce of sugar, quarter of an ounce of mint, mix one half pound of flour in twelve ounces of water, to a thin batter, pour into the soup, stir it well, boil one quarter of an hour, and serve.
No. 5.—Meagre Pea Soup.
This is the same as the former, with the exception that the bacon and dripping are omitted, and oil or butter used in their stead. Buttermilk could with advantage be used; in which case, add three ounces of salt. Although this food is entirely deprived of animal substance, yet the farinaceous ingredients will act generously on the digestive organs, particularly to a stomach which has suffered from want of food.
No. 6.—The Fisherman’s Food for the Coast.
Cut four pounds of fresh fish of any kind in large pieces; put it in your pan, with three ounces of salt, half an ounce of sugar, a little pepper, two bay leaves, a little thyme, one quart of water, and let it stew gently; mix two pounds of oatmeal with seven quarts of lukewarm water, and pour it over the fish; stir it gently, so as not to break it too much; let it boil twenty minutes, and it is done.
A red herring or dried salt fish, previously soaked, is exceedingly good to make this food; but omit the salt if all salt fish is used.
No. 7.—Curry Fish.
Put into a stew-pan four onions, a small bunch of bay-leaf, thyme, and savory; two apples, if convenient, with a quarter pound of fat, three ounces of salt, and quarter ounce of sugar, and fry for fifteen minutes. Put one pound of rice, and four quarts of water, and boil till tender: add one ounce of curry powder, mixed in a little water. Cut up six pounds of cheap fish into pieces of the size of an egg; add to the above, and boil for twenty or thirty minutes, accordingto the kind of fish. Salt and dried fish, previously soaked, cooked in this way, is excellent, omitting the salt.
No. 8.—Food for the Coast.
Take three middle-sized haddocks; remove the gills and interior, and cut open; rub them with two pounds of salt, a quarter of an ounce of sugar; let them remain twenty-four hours, turning occasionally; pass a twig through the eyes, and hang them in a cool, well ventilated place, until rather dry.
Conger eel cut into slices one inch thick, halibut, plaice, mackerel, treated in the same manner (if large they must be crimped) will keep for some time; they can he boiled, baked, broiled, or fried. A pound haddock will take twelve minutes broiling, from fifteen to twenty frying, twenty minutes baking or boiling.
No. 9.—Savoury Rice Food.
Having saved the bones of the previous day, a very good food may be made as follows:—Take six pounds of bones, which break into small pieces, and boil in ten quarts of water for four hours; having added three ounces of salt, a small bunch of thyme, bay-leaf and savory, put into a stew-pan the fat, and two onions cut thin, half a pound of vegetables, as carrots, turnips, celery, &c., cut very thin, half ounce of sugar; put it on the fire for fifteen minutes, stirring occasionally; add half a pound of oatmeal, and mix well; moisten with two gallons of the stock from the bones, add one and a quarter pound of rice, previously soaked; boil till tender, and serve.
No. 10.—Rice Panada.
Boil a pound of rice (previously washed) in one gallon of water, for one hour; add three quarters of an ounce of sugar, two ounces of salt; mix with some cold water, to make a thin paste, one pound of flour or oatmeal, and half an ounce of curry powder; add it to the rice, and boil for twenty minutes, and serve.
Should it be preferred sweet, add a quarter of a pound of treacle instead of the curry.
This will make ten pounds of solid food.
No. 11.—Peas Panada.
Cut a quarter of a pound of fat bacon or American pork into small dice, put it into a stew-pan with two onions or tops of leeks; well wash, and cut them thin, and fry ten minutes; add one pound and a half of peas, half ounce of salt, quarter ounce of sugar, and one gallon of water, boil till it becomes a purée or pulp, then add sufficient oatmeal, common flour, or Indian meal, to make it thick, and boil thirty minutes.[45]This food is very strengthening, and might be made several days previous to using; it will keep well—if no vegetable is to be obtained, a small quantity of essence of herbs would improve it.
No. 12.—Peas Panada, Sweet.
Boil in one gallon of water, one pound of peas, add half an ounce of salt, one ounce of dripping or melted suet, mix with it half a pound of Indian meal, boil for two hours, stirring it well, add a quarter of a pound of treacle; this can be eaten hot or cold.
No. 13.—Cheese Stirabout.
Put two gallons of water in a stewpan, and boil; take some Indian meal, the quantity depends on the quality, and add it gradually to the water, stirring it all the time so that it should be quite smooth and thick: add three ounces of salt; simmer on the side of the fire for two hours, taking care that it does not burn; add half a pound of strong cheese, broken small or grated, with a little mustard: give it a boil and serve.
Or put it into baking tins, allow it to get cold, cut it into pieces, which fry or bake.
No. 14.—Indian Meal Poullenta.
Prepare the meal as above (which must be very thick) without the cheese; place it in baking tins; place a thin layer of sausage meat or black pudding upon it, and cover it with more of the meal; bake it for twenty minutes and serve.
This is an excellent and cheap dish, and fit for the tables of the wealthy if a strong gravy is poured over it when served.
No. 15.—Savoury Hominy.
Take two quarts of Indian corn and soak it for twenty-four hours in water, put it into a pot containing two gallons of boiling water and simmer for five hours; draw off the water, if any, add a quarter of a pound of dripping, two onions, sliced thin, three ounces of salt, put it on the fire for twenty minutes, keep stirring it all the time, so that it does not burn, and serve. This will produce two gallonsof excellent food. The purée made from the whole corn, as above, is much sweeter and more wholesome than that made from the ground meal. The great mistake at present in the use of Indian meal is, that it is not cooked enough, it being used similar to flour; it should, on the contrary, be well mixed with boiling water and allowed to simmer for never less than two hours; it then loses its raw taste and increases in quantity.
No. 16.—St. Patrick’s Soup.
Take one pound of meat without bones, and cut into small pieces, put into a stew-pan two ounces of dripping, one ounce of leeks, one ounce of celery, one ounce of carrots, two ounces of turnips, and fry for ten minutes; then add the meat with two ounces of salt, half ounce of sugar, and fry until a thick glaze is produced; then add one quart of cold water and half a pound of flour; then add two ounces of dillisk, well washed and chopped fine; a little mixed spice and pepper. Boil three-quarters of an hour, and serve.
No. 17.—Cheap Oyster Porridge.
On many parts of the coast oysters can be had for three shillings per thousand; they can be made, without much trouble, into a nourishing and palatable food, by putting two dozen into an earthen pan, with the liquor from them, and add three spoonfuls of flour; place it on the fire, stirring them round; add a little salt and pepper and they are done. This can be added to the porridge made of the Indian corn and rice, or in the other receipts, where fish is used; a little lard is an improvement; also a bay-leaf, mint, and an onion sliced.
Mussels and cockles can be used in the same way in proportion of two dozen to the quart.
No. 18.—Cabbage Stirabout.
Well wash two pounds of cabbage, take out the stalks, and cut it slanting in slices; put into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of dripping, lard, or butter; half ounce of salt, quarter ounce of pepper, one ounce of sugar, put it on the fire for ten minutes, stir it well,then cover it with water and stew for twenty minutes, and mix it with stirabout, previously made of Indian corn meal.
Young nettles done in this way are exceedingly wholesome, and any kind of green vegetables can be cooked in this manner.
No. 19.—Conger Eels.
Put a slice of about two pounds weight into a saucepan, or earthen pot, with two onions sliced thin; a small quantity of dillisk, well washed and chopped fine, quarter ounce of salt, and a little pepper, add two quarts of water, and stew for one hour; ten minutes before using take out the fish and thicken with a little flour, previously mixed with some water; boil ten minutes, pour it over the fish, and serve—if onions or dillisk are not to be had, use half a pound of any vegetable cut fine:halibut and similar fishcan be cooked in the same manner.
Receipt No. 20.
Take three dozen of mussels, wash them, and place them in a stewing pan over the fire for five minutes, so that the shell is open; take them off, and remove the upper shell: sometimes a small crab will be found in them, which remove, as they are rather unwholesome; replace them, with their liquor and bottom shell, in the pan, add a spoonful of flour, mixed with some butter or lard, and a spoonful of chopped parsley; stir it in, and stew for five minutes, and serve.
For a large quantity have ready the large boiler, put therein four pounds of lard or butter, and four pounds of sliced onions, and fry for five minutes; have ready two pails full of mussels with their liquor out of their shell, which put in the boiler, with one pound of salt, two ounces of pepper, two ounces of sugar, and two pounds of chopped parsley; have ready two pounds of flour, mixed with water, to the consistence of good cream, and put it into the boiler; boil for ten to fifteen minutes, stir it gently with a wooden spatula, and serve; if not required meagre, use instead of the flour and water the same quantity of boiling stock, from the bones of meat, or from cow-heel, well stewed, parts of which, cut small, can be added: any flavour of herbs may be given, if liked.
No. 21.—The Poor Man’s Potato Pie.
Wash and peel six pounds of good potatoes, cut in slices, take one pound of fat mutton or beef cut into small dice, mix the whole with pepper and salt, cover with 51 paste, and bake one hour and half, and serve.
In all the foregoing receipts, a greater quantity of meat may be used by those who can afford it, as I am a great advocate that every trade should flourish and that wealth should support luxury. However great the quantity of meat that may be used, no longer time should be used in cooking it. Take the same proportion of the receipts for any larger quantity.
THE DUKE OF CAMBRIDGE’S HEAD-QUARTERS PRIOR TO THE BATTLE OF INKERMANN.
THE DAWN OF INKERMANN.THE DAWN OF INKERMANN.
HISROYALHIGHNESS’Squarters were situate about one hundred and thirty yards to the left of the windmill on the Woronzoff Road. Five parallel bell-tents were occupied—one by the duke, the others by Colonel Macdonald, Colonel Tyrwhitt, Major Clifton, and Dr. Gibson, his staff. M. Comte,chef de cuisineto the duke, and to whose devotion to all who came in his way and needed help while in the Crimea I before have had in this work occasion to allude, has since related to me that on the morning of the Battle of Inkermann he got up at three o’clock, the weather being chilly and damp and a thick heavy fog surrounding the camp, and having lit his fire he made himself some tea, when, about five, as he was quietly smoking his pipeà la bivouacaire, withinrange of the fire (of his open-air battery) the duke came up to him, exclaiming, “Halloo! M. Comte, you are about early this morning.”
“Yes, your Highness,” he replied; “the fact is, the weather is so cold and damp, that for the life of me I could not sleep, therefore I turned out and made myself a cup of tea.”
“You are right,” said the duke, warming his feet by the fire; “the weather is truly wretched.”
Hardly had the duke said these words, than several volleys of musketry and loud shouts reverberated through the camp, something like the growls of thousands of wild animals. Leaving no doubt that it was an attack of the enemy, the duke immediately left me and ran for his horse, and was soon mounted, and started alone towards the scene of action; a few minutes after, his staff followed in the wake of their gallant leader. So sudden was his departure, that, having made a bowl of tea which I had intended for him, though I ran after him with it in my hand, his Highness started without partaking of it. Not till five o’clock in the evening did the duke return, his horse wounded, and a bullet having passed through his coat-sleeve without injuring him. Major Clifton had been wounded in the cheek during the battle, and came back to quarters during the day to have his wound dressed by Dr. Gibson. On returning once more to the field of battle, he had his horse shot under him. When he again returned he was seen carrying the saddle of his defunct animal on his back. At the return of the staff in the evening, the outside of the duke’s head-quarters had the appearance of a field hospital, M. Comte having taken on himself to supply refreshment to all the wounded who were brought to his nursing care. I have heard that no less than six or seven hundred had been supplied with succour in the course of two or three days by his Highness’s faithfulchef de cuisine.
On the 11th of the same month, and while the duke was staying on board theResolution, in the harbour of Balaklava, our heroicchef de cuisinewas ordered to remain in possession of the commandant’s house in Balaklava, awaiting the return of his royal master, and also having under his charge no less than fifteen female prisoners of war, whom he was charged by the authorities to watch over with the aid of sentries, as it was thought that these female Amazons might fire Balaklava. Amongst them was the Governor’s wife and children. All the men being ordered out of the establishment, the Governor’s lady, with a smile on her lips, in very good French, inquired of M. Comte if two gentlemen present would be allowed to remain, which favour, after serious consideration on the part of the new Governorpro tem., was granted, these gentlemen being of the advanced ages respectively of three and five years. “Never did I feel a greater relief,” said M. Comte, “than when these lady prisoners were taken out of my charge, as each day discovered some fresh attempts at conspiracy.” It was during the governorship of this semi-warrior that the dreadful storm tookplace in the Bay of Balaklava, and uprooted the beautiful avenue of poplar trees which ornamented his capital, and which, to his sorrow, much disfigured the prettiest part of his dominions.
On a previous occasion, just after landing, before the battle of the Alma, this indefatigable culinary artist, who by the bye is an old traveller, was seen, under a heavy shower of rain, cooking beneath the wings of an open umbrella, preparing a dish of fried croquettes, at a time when the duke himself did not anticipate such a delicacy. The umbrella was used to stop the rain falling in the pan, which would have prevented the completion of this dainty dish, water and fat being irreconcilable foes.
A STORM IN A FRYING-PAN.A STORM IN A FRYING-PAN.
Early the following morning an alarm took place, when our warrior-cook deserted his umbrella, and shouldered his gun in his right as commander-in-chief of his own battery (de cuisine). The moon was faintly shining, and with its rays appeared the duke, who indistinctly seeing some one, exclaimed, “Who’s there?” when M. Comte replied, “It is me, your Highness. Having heard the alarm, I considered your tent and my battery could not be too well guarded, so I have just taken up this musket to be on the defensive.” The duke replied, “Really, Comte, vous êtes impayable;” and immediately started with his staff to the supposed scene of action.After a few hours everything was restored to order, when Comte grounded arms, inspected his battery, and had breakfast ready to the minute as usual.
THE CULINARY SENTRY.THE CULINARY SENTRY.
A VISIT TO THE SULTAN’S NEW PALACE OF DOLMA BATCHI.
In the month of March, 1856, I was fortunate enough to obtain an order, which I procured by great favour, to visit this huge pile of marble, prior to its final completion and occupation by his Majesty the Sultan and his harem; and although many parts of it were open to the public by ticket, yet very few visitors could boast of having seen so much of the interior as myself of this stupendous and most elegant area, where the modern houri of Mahomet were shortly to be located, they at this time still remaining in the old palace on the Bosphorus. The large room preparing for the reception of the Sultan’s favourites had but very little moveable furniture, but at the same time was most elegantly decorated. Nothing but couches were placed round the room, while the flooring was of highly-polishedwood of a most tasty design; the whole of the hangings and coverings were of a rich satin of a lavender colour, with a large flowery pattern; twenty chandeliers, of immense dimensions—about seven feet in height—sprang from the ground, proudly bearing each more than one hundred wax-lights. The wall was after the Oriental fashion, which I do not much admire, here and there paintedal fresco, representing various views of either landscape, colonnades, palaces, &c. In spite of this defect, the effect was so peculiar at the first glance, that it produced on me a most extraordinary sensation. To my surprise I found the ceiling remarkably low, but which I found, on consideration, would not appear so to its future innumerable tenants, from their habit of squatting on the floor. The effect of the light on this apartment had been tried two nights before, and the ends of the wax-lights still remained in the sockets of the chandeliers, and which, when lit, must have had a most extraordinary effect. Here for the first time I had an uninterrupted view from the interior of a harem, through the latticed windows, which are now made on an improved principle to the old Turkish style, which give you more than ever an opportunity to see from the inside without being seen, the exterior of which is also painted with views of landscapes, which are visible from the Bosphorus. At the further end of this stupendous kind of drawing-room were several apartments for the favourites, most gorgeously decorated by valuable Oriental tapestry, hanging curtains, ottomans, &c. Next I was shown a narrow corridor with three doors; I learned that these were the penitential cells for any of the naughty beauties who might need correction; however, the dungeons did not bear a very dreadful aspect. From here we went to the Sultan’s bedroom, which was gorgeously decorated with deep golden fringe and crimson velvet hangings of the richest description; the decorations of this room are almost indescribable. We then visited another room, called the Sultan’s Cabinet de Travail, where I was much struck to see it entirely fitted up in the European style, quiteà la Française, after the style of Louis XV. Upon inquiring of my ciceroni, I learned that the whole of the furniture of the apartment had been presented to the Sultan by the Emperor of the French, Napoleon III., and I must say that the quiet, though superb, manner in which it was fitted was a most pleasant relief to me after wandering through so many gaudy and superfluously grand apartments. The Sultan had already occupied himself in this room. The carpet and table were covered with the finest red French cloth, while the ceiling was of a good elevation; in fact, the Tuileries (which I have lately visited) cannot boast a more tasty or better fitted-up apartment. The staircase leading to the harem was very striking, the lantern at the summit being covered with paintings, representing windows with pots of flowers, vases, birds, &c.; yet the whole of these, though well painted, presented quite a theatrical aspect to the really charming appearance of the marble staircase. My guide had observed to me while in the Cabinet de Travail, that he never recollected any stranger enteringit before; he then showed me the chef-d’œuvres of the palace, which were the ladies’ baths—the most expensive and luxurious part of this costly palace, the bath being the greatest luxury of the Turks, the whole of them being inlaid with sapphire stone boldly carved. We then passed through the Throne Room, which I have already described in this work: it is a regularfacsimileof St. Sophia, but more gaudy. We then walked through the Reception Room for the ambassadors, which is simply decorated with gold and white, in the European style. On turning to the left, we came to the grand crystal staircase with its thousand jets of red light. I then begged to be shown the kitchen, which request at first I perceived was objected to by my guide, who expressed himself that it was impossible; but being armed with formidable letters, and making use of M. Roco Vido’s name, who is well known to the Sultan’s grand hatchi batchi, or chief cook, I at length prevailed on him to induct me to this pandæmonium of scientific handicraft, where between three and four hundred cooks were busily engaged manipulating the mostrecherchédishesà laTurk, many of which I had the pleasure of tasting. The appearance and bustle of the kitchen, which was quite new to me, put me more in mind of a public market than what it really was; every man-cook was dressed in the Oriental fashion, all looking very clean. The copper vessels which they use are daily tinned—which fact I learnt from theChef,—and shone like so much silver. The process of the Turkish cookery, though slow, I much approve of, as the succulence and aroma of every kind of food are retained, and it is far superior to our system, everything being cooked or stewed on the top of red-hot ashes laid on slabs of stone or marble. The floor of the kitchen was rather ill-paved, and the attendants were in the habit of strewing everything on the ground not wanted for use—an untidy trick. I could trace from the interior of this monster establishment no less than twenty huge shaft chimneys sprouting out from the roof of this gastronomic temple. It was now near twelve o’clock, when a shower of tray-bearers made their appearance in the kitchen, and with the greatest celerity were loaded with heaps of dishes belonging to the first, second, and third course. I ascertained on inquiry that these were for the dinners of the ladies of the harem. White snowy-looking cloths were thrown over each tray, and they were carried, to my astonishment, to the old palace on the Bosphorus, a distance of nearly half a mile, on the bearers’ heads,—the large kitchen at the latter place having been destroyed by fire, and the Sultan’s meals only being prepared there in a private kitchen, his Majesty always dining alone; which order was instituted by Mahomed II., the story being, that that monarch had so little confidence in those around him, that he always feared they would rob him of his food while carrying it from plate to mouth. Delighted with my visit, I deposited in my cicerone’s hands the golden key, in the shape of bakschish, with which I had so successfully opened the palace door of the Sublime Porte.
THE PARISIAN KITCHEN FOR THE WORKING-CLASSES,OR FOURNEANT DE L’IMPERATRICE
The kitchens for the working-classes are sixty-eight in number, each capable of supplying from one thousand to twelve hundred mechanics with good food, for which each one pays about two-thirds of the value received, although nothing is given gratuitously. They are attended by Sisters of Charity, and kept extremely clean, while the deficit is, I believe, made up by her Majesty the Empress and the municipality of Paris, from whom these institutions derive their name of Fourneant de l’Impératrice. The provisions are supplied from the central market of Paris, the Halle au Blé, which is under the superintendence of the Comptroller-General, M. Durand, by whom I was treated with the greatest courtesy while drawing up the report I made to his Majesty by imperial command; and I much regret that want of space prevents my giving it at full length here, although the report had chiefly a local importance. Wagons take the different articles of food early in the morning to all the establishments. These are most useful institutions, and in case of a scarcity of food, provisions could always, at a trifling expense, be dressed here for the needy. Indeed, every metropolis, and all large mercantile towns, ought to follow this excellent example, which, I believe, owes its origin to England.
THE TRAVELLING GENTLEMEN OF THE CRIMEA.
I cannot pass without notice the following little anecdote, related to me by Colonel Carleton of the Coldstreams—the principal personage connected with it. The day after the battle of Inkermann (said the gallant colonel) the field was visited by many T. G.’s, some of them contorting their optics with eye-glasses, and taking a survey of the many dead on the field, near to the spot where he was busily engaged in paying the last duty to the remains of the defunct brave; whereupon he made inquiry of one of his men if the gentlemen were known who seemingly took such an interest in the awful spectacle. He then desired them to come to him, which request, with a kind smile, they soon obeyed; but much were they disappointed when, instead of addressing them in a friendly manner, the Colonel ordered them to take their coats off and shoulder a pick and dig graves, which disagreeable task they could not avoid, as discipline was the order of the day, though very disgusting the task to our curious and no doubt wealthy pleasure-hunters. They were, the Colonel afterwards ascertained, merchants from one of our great commercial cities. When trapped, it was morning; when they finished their task, it was night. Thus our amateur gravediggers had not only a hard day’s work, but a very unpleasant one in the bargain.
THE CONSUMPTION HOSPITAL, BROMPTON.A Visit to the Kitchen, by Request.
While at the Reform Club, Captain Lyons, R.M., requested me to visit the kitchen of the above hospital, in the anticipation that I might be able to make some improvements in that department, if any should be requisite. The day following I went and found the place in the most perfect order, while all at once a stove of a very showy structure caught my eye, in which were placed eight or ten copper caldrons, well fixed in either iron or brick frames, each being labelled beef-tea, coffee, tea, &c. I could not but approve of the elegant appearance these utensils presented, but at the same time give my disapprobation of their having copper in use, while screwed down so tightly that but a small chance remained of their being properly tinned. In removing the lid, I remarked to the Captain that not the slightest particle of tin remained, and that therefore the cooking could not be done in any other but a highly dangerous manner. I then explained to the woman cook where the danger lay; when she quietly answered that there could be no danger, as she had each boiler cleansed two or three times a day; which of course was the root of the evil, having no doubt been the cause of the entire disappearance of the tin. In asking her how long it was since they were tinned, she replied,—“Not since she had been engaged there, nor, probably, since they had been fixed up;” when I explained to her the sad mistake in not having well tinned all such boilers, in large establishments such as this, where the utensils are in daily use, as they ought to be tinned at least once in every three months. I then made about a gallon of beef-tea with the hospital rations, in less than an hour, to which quick process she much objected, saying that she was certain the patients would not like it, as in that time it could not be thoroughly done, as she always stewed it for at least six or seven hours, by which time the meat was done to ribbons. I begged the Captain to allow several basins of my broth to be sent to the different wards to various patients, which was done, whom we afterwards visited. When the Captain inquired of one how he felt, he answered that he felt a great deal better that day, his taste having returned to him, which was a proof of the superiority of my plan over that of their cook’s—a system, I regret to say, practised in many large establishments. (For Beef-tea, see Hospital Diets.)