Macaroni.—Boil 2 oz. macaroni until it is perfectly tender; then drain it. Rub 2 tablespoonfuls flour into a smooth paste with a little cold water, boil in a lined saucepan ½ pint new milk, pour it when boiling on the flour paste, and stir well until thickened. Add to it the macaroni, which should be cut up into small bits; have ready beaten 4 eggs and ½ oz. parsley chopped up fine; add these to the milk at the same time as the macaroni, season with white pepper and salt, and pour the mixture while hot into an enamelled pie-dish, which should be well buttered. Bake in a moderately hot oven until browned over, then turn out, and serve with onion sauce, if liked; if not, with brown sauce.
Plain.—(a) Beat up 3 or 4 eggs with 1 dessertspoonful parsley very finely minced, and pepper and salt to taste. Put a piece of butter the size of an egg into a frying-pan; as soon as it is melted, pour in the omelet mixture, and, holding the handle of the pan with one hand, stir the omelet with the other by means of a spoon. The moment it begins to set cease stirring, but keep on shaking the pan for a minute or so; then, with the spoon, double up the omelet and keep shaking the pan until the under side of the omelet has become of a golden colour. Turn it out on a hot dish, and serve.
(b) Break 3 eggs, yolks and white, into a basin, add salt and pepper to taste, and beat them with a Dover’s whisk till thoroughly blended. Have the frying-pan previously on the fire with a lump of butter in it, the size of a walnut. Throw in the beaten eggs just before the butter boils. Let them set, and then fold up the omelet, and serve on a hot dish. A few chopped herbs and parsley may be added to the eggs before frying.
Plain Sweet.—Beat up well 3 eggs (whites and yolks), add to them 1 oz. butter broken up into small pieces and 1 oz. sifted sugar; stir well together, put 1 oz. fresh butter into the omelet pan; when it fritters pour in the mixture, and continue stirring until it is set, then turn the edges over until the omelet is of an oval shape, brown it with a salamander, and sift sugar over before sending to table. This will only make a small omelet; if a larger is required, double the proportions of the ingredients.
Potato.—Boil 6 mealy potatoes, then dry them well, and mash them with ½ oz. butter, add 1 oz. breadcrumbs, very finely grated, the yolks of 6 eggs and the whites of 4seasoning with white pepper and salt; melt a little butter in the omelet pan, and when it is quite hot pour in the mixture, and fry it of a nice golden brown colour over a not too fierce fire. For omelet making a gas boiling-burner is far preferable to a stove; the heat can be so nicely regulated, and the operation so much more comfortably carried on than over a hot coal range.
Rice (Savoury).—Boil 3 oz. rice, after well washing in 2 or 3 waters, in 1 pint water until the water is entirely absorbed, when it is nearly cold; add to it 3 well-beaten eggs and ¼ oz. chopped parsley. Butter a lined pie-dish, pour in the omelet, and bake in a moderate oven. Serve with fine herbs sauce.
Rice (Sweet).—Follow the above recipe, only use instead of chopped parsley 1 oz. sifted white sugar, and omit the seasoning and sauce.
Rum.—Make a plain sweet omelet with 4 whites and 6 yolks of eggs. When cooked strew sugar over, and, instead of glazing it, pour a wineglassful of hot rum over it, and set it alight as it is being put on the table.
Savoury.—(a) Beat up 3 or 4 eggs with 1 dessertspoonful parsley very finely minced, ½ clove of shallot, also finely minced, pepper and salt to taste. Put a piece of butter the size of an egg into a frying-pan; as soon as it is melted pour in the omelet mixture, and, holding the handle of the pan with one hand, stir the omelet with the other by means of a spoon. The moment it begins to set, cease stirring, but keep shaking the pan for a minute or so; then with the spoon double up the omelet, and keep shaking the pan until one side of the omelet has become a golden colour, and it is ready.
(b) Beat 2 eggs in a basin, season with cayenne and salt, mix with it 1 teaspoonful each of finely chopped onion and parsley, melt ½ oz. butter in an omelet pan, pour the mixture into this, and keep stirring it over the fire until it sets, then roll and serve. About 3 minutes will serve to cook this omelet, which should be of a delicate brown when done.
(c) Besides parsley, add a very few fresh sweet herbs and a few chives, all very finely minced. Powdered sweet herbs may be used, but in either case great care should be taken not to put in too many.
Shallot (Francatelli’s recipe).—Break 3 eggs into a basin, add 1 spoonful cream, a small pat of butter, broken into pieces, a little chopped parsley, and the shallots, well chopped, some pepper and salt; then put 2 oz. butter into the omelet pan. While the butter is melting, whip the eggs and other ingredients well together until they become frothy. As soon as the butter begins to fritter, pour the eggs into the pan, and stir the omelet; as the eggs appear to set, roll the omelet into the form of an oval cushion. Allow it to acquire a golden-brown colour on one side over the fire, and then turn it out on its dish. Pour a thin sauce, or gravy, or half glaze under it, and serve.
Soufflé.—Break carefully 6 eggs, separating the yolks and whites. Strain the yolks and add to them 2 tablespoonfuls powdered sugar and a little lemon juice or orange-flower water, stir well together. Whip the whites into a stiff froth, and then mix lightly with the rest. Heat some fresh butter in the pan, pour in the mixture, when ready sprinkle it over with sugar, and either put it into the oven for a few minutes to rise, or else hold a salamander over it. (Eliot James.)
Spinach.—Chop up all together ¼ lb. spinach (it should be young and tender), ¼ lb. beets, ½ oz. parsley, and ½ oz. leeks and lemon-thyme mixed. Season the mixture with salt and pepper, then add by degrees, a heaped-up tablespoonful of well-dried flour, 4 spoonfuls milk, 4 eggs well beaten, and 2 oz. butter melted; mix the whole well together, put into a pan, and bake 20 minutes in the oven. This is rather more solid food than the ordinary fried omelet, but, when well made, an appetising dish. If beet is not liked, sprouts can be used instead.
Sweet.—(a) Beat up the whites of 4 and the yolks of 6 eggs, with a very small pinch of salt. Put a piece of fresh butter in the omelet pan, and directly it is melted pour in the eggs. As soon as they are set fold up the omelet, inserting within the foldas much apricot jam as will lie in it. Turn out the omelet neatly on its dish, cover it with powdered sugar, and glaze it with a red-hot salamander.
(b) Beat up the eggs as in (a), with the addition of a large pinch of powdered cinnamon, and 2 tablespoonfuls powdered loaf sugar. When cooked glaze with sugar and serve.
Swiss.—Made with grated cheese in the following manner: Grate 2 oz. Parmesan cheese, melt 2 oz. butter, and add to the cheese also ½ oz. finely chopped parsley, 1 oz. breadcrumbs, finely grated, ¼ pint new milk, and 4 eggs well beaten; fry in the usual way, with a little butter in the pan, which must be properly heated before the mixture is put in.
Tomato.—Scald 6 ripe tomatoes, pare them and remove the ends and seeds. Stew them until tender, then mash them and rub through a sieve; add 2 oz. finely grated breadcrumbs, 4 well-beaten eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls milk, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix all thoroughly, pour into a buttered dish and bake in a moderately hot oven. Serve with vinegar or brown sauce, not made with stock, as is ordinary brown sauce, but merely browned butter thickening thinned with vinegar.
Poached.—(a) To be covered with the white, they should be broken into a saucepan with plenty of boiling water, enough to cover them.
(b) Stir the water round very fast, then drop the egg in the middle of the whirlpool, and keep stirring the same way till it is set.
(c) Fill a shallow sauté pan with water and sufficient salt; add a little vinegar, a few peppercorns, and some leaves of parsley. When the water is on the point of boiling (it should never be allowed to boil) break 2 or more eggs into it (according to the size of the pan), and put on the cover. When done, take them out carefully, brush them clean on both sides with a paste brush, and cut each egg with a round fluted paste cutter, so as to get them of a uniform shape. Serve on a purée made as follows: Pick and wash perfectly clean 2-3 lb. spinach, put it into a saucepan with a little water, and let it boil till quite done, turn it out on a hair sieve to drain, squeeze the water out, and pass the spinach through the sieve. Put a good lump of butter into a saucepan, fry it a light brown, add a pinch of flour, mix well, put in the spinach, pepper and salt to taste, and a little milk, stir well, dispose the spinach on a dish, laying the poached eggs on the top of it, and a border of fried sippets round it.
(d) Poach some eggs (one for each person and one over) in salted water, with a little vinegar, some peppercorns, and a few leaves of parsley, in a shallow sauté pan, just long enough to set the yolks slightly; take out each egg with a slice, brush it clean with a paste brush, and cut it with a round fluted paste cutter, about 2 in. diameter, so as to get all the eggs a uniform shape, and leave neither too much nor too little white round them. Turn the egg over carefully, brush it clean, and lay it in the soup tureen, ready filled with boiling hot clear consommé. The water in which the eggs are poached should be kept at boiling point, but never boil. Some leaves or very small sprigs of chervil may be served in the soup.
(e) Served with a sauce composed of curry powder mixed to a paste in milk, to which is added sliced onions and butter; the sauce should be strained, and then poured round the poached eggs, which have been previously arranged in a hot dish.
Purée.—Beat the yolks of 7 hard-boiled eggs in a mortar with 1½ oz. fresh butter, a little very finely minced parsley, some salt and pepper to taste, and the yolks of 3 raw eggs; mince the whites of the boiled eggs as fine as possible, and toss them over the fire, with about ½ pint good gravy, till they become rather thick; press the pounded yolks through a colander in the centre of a dish, put the minced whites round them, and arrange as a garnish some sippets of bread, brushed over with beaten egg; put the dish into the oven, or before the fire in a Dutch oven, to brown, and serve very hot. This is an extremely pretty dish.
Rolls.—Allow one egg for each person, ¾ pint of milk and 4 teaspoonfuls flour forevery three eggs; beat whites and yolks separately, mix the flour smoothly with the milk, then add the eggs and whisk well. Fry a little at a time in a buttered omelet-pan, roll as an omelet; serve very hot. To be eaten with sugar or treacle.
Savoury.—Take 4 eggs, boil them hard, when cold shell them, and cut them in half lengthwise, take out the yolks, beat into a smooth paste. To each egg allow a good slice of butter, ½ teaspoonful anchovy sauce, and cayenne pepper to taste. This should all be thoroughly mixed with the yolks; then fill the white halves with this paste. Serve on a napkin, and garnish with parsley. This is a most appetising dish, either for dinner or supper, and enough for 8 persons.
Scalloped.—(a) Mash some potatoes very smoothly, and boil some rice. Boil 5 eggs for 3 minutes; when they are cold remove the shells, and chop the eggs up roughly. Mix a teacupful of the mashed potatoes, the same quantity of rice, and the eggs together; add some chopped capers, very little vinegar, some melted butter, pepper, salt, and Worcester sauce. Put the mixture into scallop shells, with breadcrumbs and a little butter. Bake a light brown.
(b) Boil 3 or 4 eggs hard. When cold, remove the shells and chop the eggs roughly, have ready a small teacupful of mashed potatoes, another of rice; mix all together, add capers, a little melted butter, pepper, and salt, put into scallop shells with breadcrumbs on top, and bake a pale brown.
Scotch.—Boil some eggs hard enough to set the whites, so that you can remove the shells without breaking the white. After peeling the shell clean off, cover them completely with a savoury forcemeat, in which let ham or finely chopped anchovy bear due proportion. Fry of a gold colour, and serve with good gravy in the dish.
Scrambled.—(a) Break 4 eggs into a clean stewpan with 1 oz. butter, and a little salt and pepper; beat it all up until the yolks and whites are well mixed, then stir it over the fire with a wooden spoon till cooked; it should never be clotted or hard. A spoonful of stock, or any sauce, is a great improvement. Mushrooms minced and tossed in a little butter, cold asparagus cut into nice pieces, or even sliced cucumber placed in with the eggs 1-2 minutes before serving, make pleasant varieties of this little dish.
(b) Put in a saucepan 2 tablespoonfuls cream and a piece of butter the size of a walnut, well beat up 4 eggs, and when the butter is melted and quite hot pour in the eggs, and stir over the fire for a few minutes.
(c) Beat up 3 eggs well, add ½ teacupful cream or milk, salt to taste, and a small pat of butter; pour into a shallow stewpan, stir over a clear fire until the mixture grows quite thick; have ready a buttered slice of toast on a hot dish, turn the eggs out on to the toast, and serve with a sprinkling of pepper.
(d) Take a piece of butter about the size of a walnut, put it into a saucepan to melt. Take 3 eggs, break them, and put them into the saucepan with a little salt. Put the saucepan on the fire, stir the eggs quickly till they begin to set, then serve on a piece of dried toast. Take care to stir the eggs quickly, and take them out of the saucepan as soon as they begin to set, or they become hard.
(e) Beat up some eggs in a basin with pepper, salt, and a small quantity of French tomato sauce; melt some butter in a saucepan; add the eggs, and stir with a spoon until nearly set. Serve on toast, or in a very hot dish. If no tomato sauce is added to the eggs, a little chopped parsley should be sprinkled over them just before serving.
(f) Peel a large tomato, free it from pips, and chop it up small, also chop 2 slices Spanish onion; put both into a saucepan with plenty of butter, and pepper and salt to taste; stir on the fire till the onion is quite cooked, but not coloured; then throw in 4 eggs beaten up, and keep on stirring the whole till the eggs are nearly set; serve at once within a circle of bread sippets fried in butter.
Snow.—Whisk the whites of 6 eggs with a little powdered lump sugar into a stiff froth; set 1 qt. milk, sweetened to taste, to boil; drop the egg froth in it by tablespoonfuls; a few seconds will cook them; take them out, and put them on a sieve todrain. When all the egg froth is cooked, strain what is left of the milk; let it get cold, and mix gradually with it the yolks of the eggs with any flavouring you like. Put the vessel containing this into a saucepanful of water, and keep stirring on the fire until the custard thickens. To serve, pile up the whites on the dish, pour the custard round them, and sprinkle the top with “hundreds and thousands.”
Stewed.—Mince an onion very small, and fry it in good butter till well coloured, stir in some good stock, well seasoned with pepper and salt, and a very little flour; let it stew till the onion is quite soft, the flour thoroughly cooked, and the sauce rather thick. Lay in as many hard-boiled eggs as you please, cut in quarters or slices, and stir them very gently (lest the yolk should break from the white) till quite hot, when they should be served at once.
Stuffed.—(a) Make a savoury forcemeat with some very finely minced ham, veal, and one anchovy, with seasoning of salt, pepper, and a little cayenne. Have ready 6 or 7 hard-boiled eggs. Take the shells off very carefully, cover them thickly with the forcemeat. Brush the yolk of a beaten egg over them, and set them to brown in a moderate oven for about 15 minutes. When done put them on a hot dish, and pour some good brown gravy round them. A slight variation, and perhaps an improvement, is very carefully to open the eggs without entirely separating the tops, to take out the yolks, add them to the forcemeat, and when all has been well pounded together, to replace the yolks by this forcemeat, close the eggs carefully, and proceed as above.
(b) Take 6 hard-boiled eggs, cut them in half crosswise, remove the yolks, and cut a small piece off each half egg, so as to make them stand upright. Take 6 anchovies, bone and wash them clean, pound them in a mortar with 1 oz. butter, the yolks of the eggs, pepper, and a little tarragon finely chopped, fill up the whites with this mixture, pile them up on a dish and serve.
(c) Cut some hard-boiled eggs in half. Mince the yolks with olives, capers, anchovies, and truffles, a little tarragon and chervil; add some pepper and salt. Fill each half egg with this mixture, pour some liquefied butter over, warm in the oven, and serve each egg on a bread sippet, cut with an ornamental cutter, and fried in butter.
Sur Plat.—This is a most convenient dish when a slight meal is wanted in a hurry. Put a fireproof china saucepan on the fire, or on a spirit lamp. Place a lump of butter in it, and as soon as it melts, break in 3 or 4 eggs. Let them remain long enough for the whites to set, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve in the saucepan very hot.
Swiss.—(a) Although sometimes made with Parmesan, Gruyère is the correct cheese to use. Spread the bottom of a silver dish rather thickly with good fresh butter and cover it with very thin slices of the cheese, which should not be an old one or it would not melt well. Over this break as many eggs as you wish to have, taking care to keep the yolks whole; sprinkle a little salt, some black pepper, and a very little grated nutmeg over this, and pour over it about a quarter of a pint of good thick cream. Finish by strewing the top with grated cheese, and bake for ¼ hour. If not brown enough, pass the salamander over the top and serve immediately; very thin and nicely cut dry toast should be handed with it on a plate.
(b) Butter well a stoneware or silver or pewter dish that will stand the heat of the oven; line the sides of the dish with shavings of Gruyère or some good American toasting cheese. Drop on to the already buttered dish 4 or 6 raw eggs, pour over them about 3 tablespoonfuls of good cream; season with salt, cayenne, and a small grate of nutmeg, sprinkle a little grated cheese over all, and 2 tablespoonfuls more cream; place in the oven for about 7 minutes, or till the eggs are set.
(c) Spread the bottom of a dish with 2 oz. fresh butter; cover this with grated cheese; break 8 whole eggs upon the cheese without breaking the yolks. Season with red pepper and salt if necessary; pour a little thick cream on the surface, strew about 2 oz. grated cheese on the top, and set the eggs in a moderate oven for about ¼ hour. Pass a hot salamander over the top to brown it.
(d) Mix with 2 oz. grated cheese, 2 oz. oiled butter, 6 eggs, salt, pepper, and some finely chopped parsley, tarragon, and spring onions. Fry lightly, brown the top, and serve very hot.
Sauces, Butters, Gravies, Stuffings, &c.—These are employed to lend a zest to the flavour of the foods they accompany, seldom contributing any nutritious element themselves.
Agro Dolce.—This sauce is made thus: ½ lb.pignolior pine-cone kernels, 6 oz. fine chocolate, 10 oz. sugar, ½ pint best vinegar, 3 oz.canditoor candied orange or lemon, all mixed in rich good gravy, made from the material which composes the dish, such as wild boar, hare, &c.
Anchovy Butter(au Beurre d’anchois).—(a) Take 2 oz. fresh butter, 4 oz. boned anchovies, pounded to a smooth paste, and 3 oz. watercress, well washed and picked from the stalks. Mix the 3 ingredients well together, and pass them through a hair sieve. Shape the butter into small balls, ice them, and serve with dry toast or biscuits.
(b) 3 or 4 anchovies boned and pounded, 3 oz. parsley, weighed after it has been picked from the stalks, wash clean; boil for 8-10 minutes, till tender, with a small piece of soda in the water to keep it green; strain the water off and squeeze the parsley dry with the hand. Pound up in a mortar the parsley with 4 oz. fresh butter and the anchovies. Rub this through a sieve and let it drop on the dish on which it is sent to table. It should have a rocky appearance. Toast to be served at the same time.
(c) And Olive.—Take equal parts anchovies (washed, boned, and pounded fine), French olives (stoned, washed, chopped up, and then pounded), and fresh butter. Mix these 3 ingredients well together, and pass them through a very clean sieve, shape the mixture into balls, ice, and serve with Oliver biscuits, or with little squares of crisp toast.
(d) Heat a dinner-plate until it will melt ½ oz. butter placed on it; take the yolk of a fresh egg, beat it with a fork into the butter, add 1 teaspoonful anchovy sauce, cayenne pepper and salt to taste. Have ready some freshly-browned squares of toast, dip them into the mixture, covering both sides, and serve at once. (Bessie Tremaine.)
Apple Sauce.—(a) Pare, carefully core, and cut up the fruit; put it into a preserving pot or jar, and stand it in a saucepan of water over the fire till cooked. When quite done pulp the fruit, sweeten to taste with a little brown sugar; add (if liked) a piece of butter about the size of a large bean, and flavour with a little ground cinnamon or a few cloves; if the latter, they must be put in while the apples are cooking, taking care not to break them during the pulping. (Bessie Tremaine.)
(b) Peel and core 6 large apples, add to them 1 gill water and 2 tablespoonfuls moist sugar—the apples must be cut in pieces. Place the saucepan containing these ingredients on the fire to boil until the apples are soft; a little more water may be added if necessary, but the less the better; rub through a colander or sieve, or if in a hurry, mash with a fork. This must be warmed up again before serving, and a little more sugar added if necessary.
Apricot Sauce.—(a) Halve the apricots and take out the stones; break these, crush the kernels, and stew them with the fruit in a little water. Add a glass of white wine (some light German or French wine is better than sherry); sugar to taste and a spoonful of arrowroot or flour, mixed with water, to thicken. Strain before serving.
(b) Put half a pot of apricot jam in a saucepan with ½ pint water and a glass of sherry; boil, strain, and serve.
Béchamel Sauce.—Time, 2 hours; put 1 pint white stock into a stewpan with a bunch of sweet herbs, a small sprig of parsley, a bay leaf, 2 cloves, and a little salt; set it over a gentle fire to draw out the flavour of the herbs, then boil it until reduced to nearly half the quantity; mix 1 tablespoonful arrowroot in 1 pint cream and let it simmer for a few minutes; then pour in very gradually the ½ pint stock, and simmer itall together for 10-12 minutes, or until it is of the proper consistency. Should it be too thick, add a little milk or white stock.
Black Butter(Beurre noir).—Put a large piece of butter into a saucepan, and leave it on the fire until the butter becomes of a dark brown colour, but do not let it burn; then throw in some parsley chopped fine, a wineglassful of tarragon vinegar, a little salt, and some powdered white pepper, and serve.
Bordelaise Sauce.—Mince finely 2 or 3 shallots, blanch them for a few minutes, press out the water from them, and put them into a saucepan with a cupful of white wine, let them boil 20 minutes, then add 2 cupfuls Spanish sauce, a dust of pepper, and some parsley finely minced; let the sauce give a boil or two, and it is ready. Well-flavoured gravy, thickened with browned flour and butter, may be used instead of Spanish sauce.
Brandy Butter.—(a) 6 oz. butter, 6 oz. powdered loaf sugar, a small glass of brandy, and the same quantity of sherry. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream; add the brandy and sherry very slowly, beating all the time. It is best iced.
(b) Beat 2 oz. fresh butter to a cream, then add 2 oz. sifted sugar, and 1 wineglassful brandy drop by drop, mixing well all the time; continue beating until they are all thoroughly incorporated and the mixture looks like smooth solid cream. It is better than the usual melted butter with many puddings besides plum pudding.
(c) Take ¾ lb. fresh butter and beat it to a cream, add ¼ lb. finely sifted sugar, add very slowly 1½ wineglass brandy, and continue beating until well mixed.
Brandy Sauce.—(a) Mix 1 dessertspoonful French potato flour in a little cold water, stir into it ½ pint boiling water. Let it boil for 2 minutes; add 3 oz. lump sugar, the juice of a lemon, a grate of nutmeg, and 1 oz. sweet, fresh butter. When this is dissolved stir in 1 gill brandy, and do not afterwards boil the sauce.
(b) Mix 1 tablespoonful potato flour or arrowroot with a little cold water, then add as much water as will make enough sauce, with powdered loaf sugar to taste, and keep it on the fire until the sauce thickens; put into it at the time of serving as much brandy as may be necessary.
Breadcrumbs.—(a) Baked (Chapelure).—Bake any odd pieces of bread (taking care that none of them be greasy) to a rich brown colour. When cold pound them in a mortar, sift them through a fine sieve, and put them by for use.
(b) Fried.—Toast carefully in the oven a few thin slices of bread with the crusts cut off, and then rub them down or pass them through a colander. Put a liberal allowance of lard into a stewpan or frying pan, make it very hot, and take care that the fat is perfectly clear and transparent. Fry the prepared crumbs, taking care not to overdo them, and drain them before the fire very thoroughly and completely, as the whole success of fried crumbs consists in their being sent to table perfectly dry and quite hot.
(c) Plain.—Take the crumb of a stale loaf, and rub it through a wire sieve. They should be made from day to day.
Bread Sauce.—(a) Take 3-4 tablespoonfuls sifted breadcrumbs, pour over sufficient boiling new milk to cover, put a plate over the basin to keep in the steam; when cold put them into a saucepan with 2 tablespoonfuls good white stock, a small slice of onion, 3 or 4 peppercorns, a small blade of mace, and a little salt; when boiling, stir in a piece of butter the size of a pigeon’s egg in which a little flour has been rubbed, let the bread sauce thicken, take out the peppercorns and mace, serve very hot. Good white gravy can generally be made for this from the head and neck of the fowl, &c., for which the bread sauce is required. Some add a small piece of lemon peel.
(b) The great secret of the uneatable bread sauce one so often tastes is that the breadcrumbs are not grated finely enough. Grate the breadcrumbs, and then pass them through a colander into a basin, and pour over them some boiling milk (say ½ pint to a teacupful of crumbs), in which onion and spice to taste have been previously boiled, and strained off. This stands till the bread is thoroughly soaked, when it is put into asaucepan with more milk if necessary, salt, and pepper, and boiled to the proper consistency.
Brown Sauce(Espagnole).—Butter slightly a gallon saucepan, put a layer of slices of onion at the bottom, over this 2 lb. lean veal, 1 lb. beef, and ½ lb. ham, all cut in small pieces; add ½ pint gravy stock. Put the saucepan on the fire, stirring the contents frequently. When the meat is well coloured add 1 carrot cut in small pieces, 1 bay leaf, some parsley, thyme, and marjoram, 1 or 2 cloves, a little whole pepper and salt to taste, then put in as much more stock as will well cover the contents of the saucepan. Let the whole boil gently for about 3 hours, and strain the liquor through a tammy. Put into a saucepan ¼ lb. butter and 2 oz. flour, stir on the fire till the two are well mixed, and are of a light brown colour; then gradually add the strained liquor boiling hot. Set the saucepan at the side of the fire, and let it simmer for 1½ hour, carefully skimming the contents from time to time. Lastly, turn out the sauce into a basin, and if not wanted immediately let it be stirred every 5-10 minutes till quite cold. In a good larder it will keep several days, but it should be warmed every day in hot weather.
Brown Butter Sauce.—Put 4 oz. fresh butter in a stewpan on the fire, and keep stirring it until it becomes brown by frying; then add a small wineglass of tarragon vinegar, ditto of Harvey’s sauce, a tablespoonful of chopped capers, a little anchovy, and either a gill of brown sauce or gravy. Boil this together for 5 minutes, and serve.
Caper Sauce(aux Capres).—(a) Put 2 oz. butter in a saucepan with a tablespoonful of flour, and stir well on the fire until the mixture assumes a brown colour; add rather less than 1 pint stock, free from fat, season with pepper, salt, and a little Worcester sauce. When the sauce boils, throw in plenty of capers, let it boil once more, and it is ready.
(b) 4 oz. butter melted, to which add 2 oz. flour and ½ pint milk; when it thickens, 2 tablespoonfuls cream, 1 teaspoonful finely chopped parsley, 1 of fennel, and 1 of capers, 2 of tarragon vinegar, salt and cayenne to taste. A little chopped tarragon is an improvement, and that and the parsley and fennel ought to be previously boiled.
Celery Sauce(au Céleri).—Boil 2 or 3 heads of celery in salted water, with a bunch of sweet herbs and some whole pepper and salt to taste; when thoroughly done, pass them through a hair sieve. Melt a piece of butter in a saucepan, mix a tablespoonful of flour with it, then add the celery pulp, stir, and dilute to the proper consistency with milk or cream.
Chaudeau Sauce.-½ pint foreign wine, ½ pint water, the yolks of 8 eggs, the peel of a lemon rasped off in sugar, the juice of a lemon and 4 oz. sugar, including that on which the lemon was rasped, must be well whisked in a stewpan; then set over the fire, and the whisking continued until the sauce thickens and is about to boil.
Chaudfroid Sauce.—Remove the legs, breast, and wings from 2 uncooked birds, pound the carcases in a mortar, put them into a saucepan, with a piece of ham or bacon chopped up, an onion, a carrot, 1 oz. butter, a bundle of sweet herbs, and spices, pepper and salt to taste. Put the saucepan on the fire, and when the contents are quite hot add a small cupful of white wine (sherry or marsala), and a few minutes after add rather more than 1 pint good ordinary stock; let the whole gently simmer over an hour, then strain, and carefully remove all fat; mix a little butter and flour in a saucepan, and stir them on the fire till the mixture browns, then gradually add the liquor and a cupful of unclarified aspic jelly. If at hand a cupful of well-made Spanish sauce may be used instead of the thickening of butter and flour.
Cherry or Plum Sauce.—Wash and stone the fruit, put them on to stew with a glass of red wine, a little water, a little powdered cinnamon, and a slice of toasted bread. Break the stones, and boil them apart in just water enough to cover them. When the fruit is well done pass all through a coarse sieve, strain it, and add the water from the stones. Sweeten to taste, and thin it with wine or water if too thick.
Chestnut Sauce(aux Marrons).—Remove the outer skin from a number of chestnuts (carefully excluding any that may be the least tainted), put them to boil in salted water with a handful of coriander seeds, and 2 bay leaves. When thoroughly done remove the inner skin and pound the chestnuts in a mortar, adding a little stock (free from fat) now and then. When a smooth paste is obtained, fry an onion in butter to a light colour, add the chestnut paste and sufficient stock to get the sauce of the desired consistency; add salt and pepper to taste, pass through a hair sieve and serve.
Chestnut Stuffing.—Remove the outer skin from a quantity of chestnuts; set them to boil in salted water with a handful of coriander seeds and 2 bay leaves. When nearly done drain off the water, and remove the inner skin of the chestnuts. Cut up ½ lb. butter into small pieces, mix it with the chestnuts, when cold, together with an onion finely minced. Sprinkle the mixture with pepper and salt and a little powdered spice to taste, and stuff the turkey with it.
Cinnamon Sauce(Cannelle).—Boil 3 oz. sugar with a stick of cinnamon broken up in small pieces in rather more than 1 pint water; after it has boiled a little time skim well and strain; add a small quantity of arrowroot or potato flour mixed with a little cold water, let it boil once more, and serve; or it may be served without thickening.
Clear Butter(Beurre fondu).—Melt as much fresh butter as may be wanted in a very clean stewpan, taking care that it does not get at all brown, to prevent which keep moving it about over a moderately hot fire with a wooden spoon. When it is all melted take it off the fire, and let it stand for a few minutes until the thick part settles at the bottom of the pan, then carefully pour off the clear butter, season it by stirring in a little powdered salt, and serve at once.
Cold Meat Sauce.—(a) Chop very finely the yolks of 4 hard-boiled eggs, 4 shallots, a little chopped parsley, chervil and tarragon. Mix the herbs and eggs with 2 tablespoonfuls best salad oil, some salt and pepper, and gradually add 4 spoonfuls vinegar. Arrange some slices of cold meat in a circle in a dish, ornamented with pieces of cucumber and slices of the hard-boiled whites of eggs. If liked, a few chopped capers can be added to the sauce, which must be poured over the meat. This is very appetising for breakfast or for luncheon.
(b) Chop a little onion very fine (green onion, if you have it; there should be about ½ teaspoonful, or rather less); mix this smoothly with a bit of butter the size of a small walnut on a plate till the butter becomes soft and creamy; put this into a basin, adding a teaspoonful of made mustard, a little salt and pepper, nearly a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and a tablespoonful of milk; mix these ingredients together, and add 2 tablespoonfuls vinegar, or rather less, if liked.
Corach.—1 oz. cayenne pepper, 8 cloves of garlic, 2 spoonfuls walnut pickle, 1 qt. vinegar, 2 spoonfuls mushroom pickle, and a small quantity of cochineal. Put the whole into a bottle, which must be shaken every day for 3 weeks; then the liquid must be strained off for use, and 1 pint fresh vinegar put on the grounds and more corach made.
Cream Sauce(à la crème).—Into 1 pint melted butter, made with very little flour, stir about 1 gill cream beaten up with the strained yolk of an egg.
Curries and Curry Powders.—(a) 1 oz. cardamoms freed from husk, 1 oz. cloves, 2 oz. each caraways, ginger, and black pepper, 1 oz. cayenne, 3 oz. cumin, 1½ lb. turmeric, 4 oz. fenugreek; all freshly ground; improves by keeping.
(b) 4 oz. turmeric, 2 oz. coriander seeds, 1 oz. each cumin, cayenne, pepper, and ginger, ½ oz. each cardamoms and caraway, 2 dr. mace; all finely powdered, well mixed, sifted, and kept corked.
(c) 12 oz. coriander, 6 oz. black pepper, 4 oz. turmeric, 3 oz. cumin, 1½ oz. cayenne, ½ oz. cardamoms, 2 dr. cloves, 1 oz. pimento, 3 oz. cinnamon, 2 oz. ginger, 1 oz. mace, 1 oz. mustard.
(d) 5 oz. coriander, 4 oz. cumin, 3 oz. each turmeric, fennel seed, and cayenne, 2 oz. black pepper, 1 oz. fenugreek.
(e) 12 oz. coriander, 8 oz. turmeric, 2 oz. each cumin, caraway, and long pepper, 1 oz. cayenne, ½ oz. cardamoms.
(f) 1 lb. turmeric, ¾ lb. coriander seed, 3 oz. ginger, 2 oz. black pepper, 1½ oz. red pepper, ½ oz. cardamom seeds, ¼ oz. caraway seeds, 80 cloves, finely powdered. Well mix together, and put into stoppered bottles.
(g) 13 oz. coriander seed, 3 oz. cumin, 2 oz. black pepper, 4 oz. China tumeric, ¾ oz. cayenne pepper, ¼ oz. capsicum, ¼ oz. white ginger, ½ oz. cardamoms, ¼ oz. cloves, ¼ oz. allspice. All to be finely powdered and well mixed together.
(h) Cut up a fowl, rabbit, or any cold meat in small pieces about 1 in. square. Mix in a basin to a smooth paste ¼ lb. butter and 2 tablespoonfuls curry powder. Put 2 oz. butter in a frying-pan, when boiling put in 6 onions and 2 shallots, cut fine; fry a light brown, then add the curry powder which was mixed, and when all is melted put in the meat. Stir constantly till done, or it will burn. A fowl will take ¼ hour to fry, and must be well skimmed. In a moist curry add a little gravy.
(i) Cut some onions in thin slices, and fry them a good brown in butter, add a breakfastcupful of milk, in which a tablespoonful of curry powder has been mixed; let all boil together for 20 minutes, stirring the whole time; then add the vegetables previously parboiled, and let the whole simmer by the side of the fire for about an hour. Potatoes, peas, beans, carrots, and turnips can be used; but broad beans alone make a delicious curry.
(j) Put a good-sized piece of butter into a stewpan, slice into it 2 good-sized onions, and fry till they become a golden brown colour; sift over the onions about 1 tablespoonful curry powder (Crosse and Blackwell’s is the best), mix and fry lightly. Take a fowl or rabbit previously cooked, and joint it neatly, cut into rather small pieces, and put it into the stewpan; then take a good large teacupful of fresh milk, mix a small quantity of flour with it, add to the meat a pinch of salt, and, if you have it, a tablespoonful of mangoe sauce; mix all well together, and let it simmer on the fire 20 minutes, then squeeze over it the juice of ½ lemon or a small lime; if there is not sufficient gravy, a little more milk may be added, and if too rich strain off a little of the onions. The remains of a cold fowl, rabbit, or a veal cutlet are excellent for this curry; also any kind of white fish, lobster, or shrimps; if for fish only, all the onions must be strained off; the gravy should be of the consistency of good cream, and a bright yellow colour.
(k) Cut into small squares the meat and 2 onions, with a dessertspoonful of sugar; put these into a stewpan with 2 oz. butter to take good colour. Then add 1 teacupful good stock, some raisins, say 12, cut small; curry powder to taste, pepper and salt, and a few slices of apple. When these are all mixed together, gently cook for 3-4 hours.
(l) Cut 1 lb. meat in small pieces, slice an onion and fry in butter until of a light brown, then add 1 tablespoonful curry powder, 1 teacupful water, 1 breakfastcupful gravy, the juice of a lemon, and a little salt. Stew all until nearly dry, and serve quite hot. Curry should always be made of cooked meat.
(m) 18 oz. turmeric powder, 1 oz. cayenne, 2 oz. black pepper, 4 oz. ground ginger, 12 oz. cumin, 12 oz. coriander. Butler and M’Culloch, of Covent-garden Market, will either mix these ingredients or send them separate.
(n) 1 lb. 4 oz. coriander seed, 1 oz. cumin ditto, 1 oz. fenugreek ditto, 1 oz. mustard ditto, 2 oz. poppy ditto, 4 oz. tumeric, in powder, 2 oz. ginger ditto, 2 oz. black pepper ditto, 1 oz. red pepper ditto, 2 oz. garlic.
Each of the first four ingredients must be well roasted separately in a dry frying-pan (free from grease), constantly stirring all the time; they must then be pounded and sifted through muslin before being weighed, as the loss is considerable in the husking. The poppy seed must be ground, but does not need sifting. All the powders must then be carefully mixed. The garlic must then be added, picked clean from all skin, andthe whole again beaten with a pestle in a mortar till the garlic is thoroughly incorporated with the other ingredients. Bottle and cork tightly. A tablespoonful is enough for a curry.
(o) Take 2 large onions, shred them, and put them into a stewpan with a bit of butter; brown them well, cut the meat into squares, put it into the pan, in which the fried onions are, and brown it also. Then add the curry powder, a little salt, a small piece of coconut grated, and a coffeepotful of rich milk or cream. Put the lid on the pan, and let it stew 15-20 minutes, as the meat requires.
(p) 2½ large spoonfuls butter, simmer, and add 2 or 3 slices onion to fry; when the onions are nicely browned take them out, and put in a tablespoonful of curry powder, with an onion chopped, and 2 or 3 cloves garlic; fry for about 10 minutes longer, then put in the meat, every now and then throwing in a little cold water to prevent burning. When the meat is tolerably well done add a cupful of water, cold or hot, and simmer gently; when all the water is evaporated and the meat thoroughly cooked, the curry is done. The mixture should be well stirred all the time, or it will stick to the bottom of the pan.
(q) Take 2 lb. meat of any sort; pass it through a sausage machine, or mince it. Previous to doing this braise 2 onions in a stewpan with a little butter and 2 tablespoons curry powder or paste. Then add the minced meat and stir the whole together for about 1 hour over the fire. Add a tablespoonful of vinegar and serve. The above quantity is sufficient for 12 persons.
(r) Cut 1½ lb. chicken, or any meat or fish, into small pieces, wash them well, and sprinkle 1 teaspoonful salt and 1 tablespoonful curry powder (mixed) over them. Fry sliced onions (number according to taste) in 3 tablespoonfuls fresh butter, put the meat in, and fry for ¼ hour, pouring in at the same time 2 cups boiled gravy. 3 tablespoonfuls coconut milk should be added, or in its stead a lump of fresh butter rolled in flour. Simmer for 10 minutes. Just before serving add a squeeze from a lime. Rice should be served on a separate dish.
(s) 2 large tablespoonfuls curry powder, 1 dessertspoonful salt, the same of black pepper. Fry and chop very fine 4 onions, then moisten the curry powder with water, and put it in a stewpan, with all the above ingredients, and ¼ lb. butter. Let it stew for 20 minutes, stirring all the time to prevent burning, then add 1½ lb. cold meat, or fresh meat or any fowl or rabbit, cut into short thick pieces, without fat, add ½ pint milk or good stock to make the curry thick. Boil all up at once, and then let it stew gently for 3-4 hours. When ready add lemon juice or chili vinegar.
(t) Make the stewpan very hot, and then put some butter into it; when melted add onions cut into small pieces. When they are browned add your raw meat, also cut small, and simmer for 3 hours. When the meat is well cooked add 1 dessertspoonful curry powder (more if liked very hot) and ½ teaspoonful curry paste, or less, mixed with a little drop of water. Breast of mutton is best, and a little fat is an improvement.
Custard(à la crème).—Beat up the yolks of 2 eggs with powdered sugar, according to taste; stir in ½ pint milk, and 1 or 2 teaspoonfuls orange flower water. Stir in a bain-marie on the fire, and when the sauce thickens it is ready.
Devil(à la diable).—(a) Take 2 tablespoonfuls black pepper, and ¼ spoonful cayenne; take some thick slices of meat, beef or mutton, or some legs of chicken or other poultry; cut the meat several ways, but not through, and put the pepper in the interstices; broil on a clear fire. Sauce.—2 tablespoonfuls roast-meat gravy, 2 port wine, ½ lemon juice, ½ respectively anchovy sauce, Harvey sauce, Worcester sauce, and Reading sauce, and a little shred lemon peel and some of the stuffing of duck or goose (if the “devil” is made of either); otherwise have a little chopped onion boiled tender in gravy, and put it into the sauce, which is only to be made hot on the fire.
(b) Cut up cold meat or bones, lay them in a shallow dish, and pour over them a mixture made thus: Take 1 teaspoonful powdered mustard, 2 teaspoonfuls each Worcestersauce and mushroom ketchup, 1 teaspoonful chili vinegar, ¼ teaspoonful cayenne, 1 teaspoonful salad oil, 1 of lemon juice, and 1 wineglassful claret. Put the dish into the oven, stir the meat about in it for 10 minutes or a little longer. This is very nice made of cold fowl or kidneys.
(c) Fry the meat brown in butter. Have ready a mixture made as follows: some good gravy or stock, a little Worcester and tomato sauce and ketchup; chop very fine some mixed pickles, add them with pepper and salt, and stir well; when you have taken up the meat out of the pan, set the mixture in it to get hot, then pour it over the meat, and serve on a hot-water dish. Cold fish cooked in this way is also very good.
(d) The following is a most excellent devil mixture, which may be used for every sort of wet devil; pigs’ feet, chicken legs, fish, and indeed almost anything, is very good when cooked with it: 4 tablespoonfuls cold gravy, 1 of chutney paste, 1 of ketchup, 1 of vinegar, 2 teaspoonfuls made mustard, 2 of salt, and 2 tablespoonfuls butter. Mix all the above ingredients as smoothly as possible in a soup plate; put with it the cold meat, or whatever you wish to devil, and stew gently until thoroughly tender.
(e) Take 4 tablespoonfuls gravy, 1 of mushroom ketchup, 1 of vinegar, 1 teaspoonful chutney or chowchow, 2 of made mustard, 1 of salt, and 2 tablespoonfuls butter. Mix all smoothly in a soup plate, put it with the cold fowl or turkey, and stew gently until hot through.
(f) Mix in a teacup equal quantities of mustard, ground pepper, and vinegar (a little Watkin’s relish is an improvement when liked); take the bones, slit the meat down to the bone, and fill the slits with this mixture, rub it well in all over the meat, then broil over a clear fire, and send to table at once.
Dutch Sauce(Hollandaise).—(a) Put 3 tablespoonfuls vinegar in a saucepan, and reduce it on the fire to one-third; add ¼ lb. butter and the yolks of 2 eggs. Place the saucepan on a slow fire, stir the contents continuously with a spoon, and as fast as the butter melts add more, until 1 lb. is used. If the sauce becomes too thick at any time during the process, add 1 tablespoonful cold water and continue stirring. Then put in pepper and salt to taste, and take great care not to let the sauce boil. When it is made—that is, when all the butter is used and the sauce is of the proper thickness—put the saucepan containing it into another filled with warm (not boiling) water until the time of serving.
(b) Melt 2 oz. butter in a saucepan, mix with it the yolks of 3 eggs, a good spoonful of flour, a little salt and nutmeg, and about 3 tablespoonfuls cold water. Stir this over the fire till on the point of boiling, when the sauce should be a little thick. Draw the saucepan to the side of the stove, and stir in slowly 3 oz. more butter, add the juice of a lemon, and serve hot.
(c) ½ lb. butter, 3 yolks eggs, 1 lemon, 10 whole grains black pepper, pinch salt. Break yolks of eggs into a saucepan, add the pepper, crushed but not powdered, the salt, the juice of lemon; whisk it well. In another saucepan melt the butter to cream (taking care not to boil), then with a spoon drop the butter slowly on to the eggs, stirring all the time; beat it well together, strain through a tammy cloth, and place the saucepan in a bain-marie until dinner is served; add a small piece of butter the last moment.
(d) The yolks of 2 eggs raw, ½ teacupful cream, piece of butter size of a walnut, 1 teaspoonful tarragon vinegar. Make the cream, butter, and vinegar hot, and pour gently over the eggs, stirring one way till well mixed.
(e) The yolks of 2 eggs, the juice of ½ lemon, ¼ lb. butter, 1 teaspoonful salt, and a little white pepper. Stir this in a clean stewpan over the fire till the butter is melted (it must never boil), then stir in a pint of melted butter, and strain through a silk sieve. When wanted, stir it over the fire till hot.
Egg Sauce(Béarnaise, Mousseuse).—(a) Grate 2 oz. vanilla chocolate and stir into it ½ pint cream, and ½ pint milk with sugar to taste; when it boils add the yolks of 3 or 4 eggs, whisk until it froths well, return it to the stewpan, and stir until it thickens, butdo not let it boil. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth with a little sifted sugar, stir this to the rest, and serve at once.
(b) Flavour 1 pint milk with vanilla or any flavouring preferred, add sugar to taste, let it nearly boil, then stir in off the fire the yolks of 2 or 3 eggs and 2 teaspoonfuls flour; stir until it thickens. Beat up the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth with a little sifted sugar; at the moment of serving add the froth to the sauce, and it is ready.
(c) Put 3 or 4 shallots and a little garlic, with some allspice, roughly pounded, and a little mace, into a saucepan with a tumblerful of water and half that quantity of tarragon vinegar. Let the whole boil till reduced to one tumblerful; strain this liquor, and let it get cold; strain the yolks of 3 eggs, mix gradually with them the above liquor, salt to taste, and a 2 oz. pat of fresh butter; stir the mixture over a slow fire until it thickens, then add a small quantity of tarragon, finely minced, and serve.
(d) Egg Foam Sauce.—Rasp off the yellow rind of ½ lemon, with 1½ oz. loaf sugar. Put this, with 3 eggs and 1 teaspoonful arrowroot, in an enamel stewpan. Stir in ¼ pint water, and a tablespoonful of either brandy, rum, or maraschino. Set it over the fire, and whisk it thoroughly till the froth fills the stewpan. This may be served with either warm or cold dishes.
Epicurean Sauce.—8 oz. each mushroom ketchup and walnut ketchup, 3 oz. shallots, 2 oz. each port wine and Indian soy, ½ oz. each cloves and white pepper, ¼ oz. cayenne; macerate 14 days in warm place; filter; add white wine vinegar to make 1 pint.
Fairy Butter.—Take the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs and beat them in a mortar with 2 tablespoonfuls pounded white sugar and 1 teaspoonful orange flower water, or any flavouring that is preferred. When brought to a smooth paste add ¼ lb. fresh butter and mix all well together. Then put it into a very coarse cloth and force it through it (by squeezing and wringing it) on to a dish.
Fennel Sauce(au Fenouil).—Blanch a small quantity of fennel in boiling water and salt for a minute, take it out, dry it on a cloth, and chop it finely; melt 2 oz. butter, add 1 tablespoonful flour to it, mix well, put in pepper and salt to taste, and a little more than a tumbler of hot water; stir on the fire until the sauce thickens and begins to boil. Take the saucepan off the fire, stir into it the yolk of an egg beaten up with the juice of half a lemon, and add plenty of chopped fennel.
Fine Herbs(Provençale).—Put into a saucepan 1 gill salad oil, 1 onion, 1 tomato, 3 or 4 button mushrooms, and a small piece of garlic, all finely chopped. When the whole has been on the fire a few minutes, add 1 tablespoonful flour and stir well; then pour in 1 glass white wine and ½ pint stock, add a bunch of sweet herbs; pepper and salt to taste, 2 cloves, and a bit of nutmeg. Let the sauce boil for ¼ hour, then strain and serve.
Fish Sauce.—(a) 1 pint nasturtium blossoms to be gathered, and put into a jar with 1 qt. good vinegar, 6 shallots, 3 teaspoonfuls salt, 2 of cayenne pepper; let these stand together for 7-9 days, then strain the liquid off, and to every pint of it add 2 oz. soy, and the same of essence of anchovies. Bottle this and cork it well. This sauce is also good with game.
(b) 2 oz. butter, 1 large dessertspoonful flour, 2 tablespoonfuls mushroom ketchup, 1 dessertspoonful anchovy essence, 1 of chili vinegar, 1 teaspoonful pounded sugar, 1 of Indian soy, 1 gill gravy, 1 wineglass sherry. Proceed thus: Put into a small copper stewpan the butter, let it dissolve and stir into it with a wooden spoon a large dessertspoonful of flour; stir this over the fire till it begins to brown. Now put in the gravy and stir over the fire till it begins to thicken; then add the other ingredients, leaving the sherry till the last; it should be smooth and rather thick. The wine should never boil long, as it loses its flavour.
(c) Make ½ pint white sauce, add 1 tablespoonful curry powder, and some pickles chopped up small with a little of the vinegar.
(d) The yolks of 2 eggs, ½ teacupful cream, a little cayenne pepper and salt. Mixthem together and simmer in a pan, stirring all the time till it thickens. When cold, add 2 tablespoonfuls vinegar.
Forcemeat.—(a) Pound to a paste in a mortar slightly rubbed with garlic equal parts veal and fat ham or bacon, then pass them through a wire sieve, and return them to the mortar. Work into the paste thus obtained ¼ its bulk of butter, and about the same quantity of breadcrumbs, soaked in milk or in stock, with the yolks of one or more eggs according to quantity. Add some minced parsley and pepper, salt, spices, and powdered sweet herbs, to taste.
(b) Breadcrumbs, hare’s liver scalded and then minced fine, with ½ lb. ham, 1 anchovy, some lemon peel, sweet herbs, well seasoned by salt, pepper, and nutmeg, if the flavour be liked will, when mixed with 1 glass port and 2 eggs, make a good forcemeat for hare. Add a little fresh butter to it if the ham be lean.
(c) ½ lb. breadcrumbs, ¼ lb. chopped suet, 1 teaspoonful white pepper, 2 of salt, 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley, one of sweet marjoram, one egg, and a little milk. Beat all together, and make into small balls.
(d) Take 1 part finely shredded suet and 2 of breadcrumbs, season with pepper, salt, powdered spices, sweet herbs, and finely minced parsley; mix all well together, then add as many eggs as will bind the ingredients together into a stiff paste.
Gascony Butter.—Take equal quantities parsley picked from the stalk and parboiled, anchovies washed, boned, and pounded, and fresh butter. Mix the ingredients well together, and pass them through a hair sieve; shape the butter into egg-shaped balls, ice them, and serve with a piece of toast under each ball.
Gherkin Sauce(aux Cornichons).—Put ½ pint vinegar into a saucepan, with a clove of garlic, 2 shallots finely minced, a sprig of thyme, a bay leaf, pepper and spices to taste, and, if liked, a little cayenne; let the whole boil for ½ hour, then add ½ pint stock or broth. Melt a piece of butter the size of an egg, mix a little flour with it, then the above liquor carefully strained. Stir the sauce till it boils, add salt if required, a little minced parsley, and 2 or 3 pickled gherkins finely minced.
Glaze.—(a) Take 4 lb. shin of beef, 4 lb. knuckle of veal, and 1 lb. lean ham, cut them into small pieces, and put them into a stockpot with about 2 qt. cold water—enough to cover the meat—let it come gradually to the boil, skim carefully, occasionally adding a dash of cold water; when clear boil it for 8 hours more, and then strain it through a sieve into a pan. Remove the fat when quite cold. Pour it into a stewpan—be careful not to let the sediment go in—with 1 oz. whole black pepper, ½ oz. of salt, and boil it over a clear fire, leaving the pan uncovered. Skim, and when reduced to 1 qt. strain it through a tammy into another stewpan; then let it simmer till—on taking out some with a spoon and allowing it to cool—it will set into a jelly; great care is required to keep it from burning. It should be kept in earthenware pots, and when required for use melted by putting the pots into saucepans of boiling water. To glaze hams, tongues, &c., wash them over with the melted glaze, using a brush which should be kept for that purpose.
(b) Melt 2 oz. butter and 2 oz. lump sugar in saucepan till brown, add 2 spoonfuls jelly made from shank of mutton or gelatine; let all boil up. Put it over the tongue or ham with a feather or brush.
Governor’s Sauce.—The following is a Canadian recipe: Slice 1 peck of green tomatoes, sprinkle them with a cupful of salt, and let them stand a night; in the morning pour off the liquor, and put them into a saucepan with vinegar enough to cover them. Add 6 green or red chilies, 4 large onions chopped fine, 1 teacupful brown sugar, 1 of scraped horseradish, 1 tablespoonful each cloves and allspice, and 1 teaspoonful each red and white pepper. Let it simmer till soft, put into jars, and keep air-tight. (Bessie Tremaine.)
Gravy(Jus).—(a) Cut up an onion, carrot, and turnip, and fry them a nice brown in oil or butter; then dust in a tablespoonful of flour, and brown that also. Add1 pint boiling water, parsley, herbs, a bay leaf, pepper and salt, and a little vinegar, and let it simmer by the side of the fire for ½ hour or more. Just before serving add a tiny piece of sugar and a little spice, a teaspoonful of anchovy or other sauce, or a little lemon, should it be available. If it is not a good colour, it must be coloured with burnt sugar; but a few onion skins put in at first will probably make it dark enough.
(b) To Colour.—Burnt Spanish onions, to be obtained at any Italian warehouse. Put a small piece into a basin, pour some boiling water on it, and mash it with a spoon. Pour into and boil with the gravy.
(c) Ditto.—Make an iron spoon very hot, put into it some moist sugar, and drop it into the gravy.
(d) Ditto.—A few bakers’ raspings will both thicken and brown gravies.
(e) Ditto.—Flour, baked in a tin dish until it is well browned, is a very good colouring to keep ready for use.
(f) Ditto.—Put a lump of butter and 1 tablespoonful flour into a stewpan, stir, and let it get well browned; pour to it a little water or meat broth; have ready some shallot, parsley, and onions chopped very fine, throw all in the pan, with pepper and salt, and a few drops of vinegar; put in your meat, but only let it get warmed through.
(g) Put 1 slice of ham, 1 lb. gravy beef, 1 lb. veal, 1 onion, 1 clove, some celery, a faggot of herbs, a little lemon peel, 1 liqueur glass sherry, and just enough water to cover them into a stewpan. Cover it close and simmer till nearly dry, but do not let it burn, turn the meat occasionally. Then pour over it 1½ pint boiling water, and boil gently for 2 hours; skim and strain. Mix 1 oz. flour with 1 oz. butter, moisten it with a little of the gravy, then add it gradually to the rest, simmer altogether for ½ hour, remove any scum that may rise, strain again and serve.
Green Butter.—(a) 4 sardines or anchovies, well washed, and pounded in a mortar; 4 oz. parsley free from stalk, and boiled till tender, the water to be well squeezed out, then chopped and rubbed through a sieve with the anchovies, and 2 oz. fresh butter. Make it up into shapes.
(b) Pick and boil 2 oz. parsley; wash and bone 2 oz. anchovies, and pound them with the parsley; rub it all through a sieve; mix well with 4 oz. fresh butter; shape it into one large or several small pats, as you please, and serve it with a lump of ice and some hot dry toast.
Grill Sauce.—(a) 1 tablespoonful cream, 1 of vinegar, ketchup, 1 teaspoonful mustard, Harvey or Reading sauce, a little cayenne and salt; warm in a saucepan, and pour over the grill.
(b) Take 1 oz. butter, and knead into it 1 teaspoonful mustard flour, ½ saltspoonful cayenne pepper, and the same of white pepper. When mixed put it into a small enamelled saucepan; stir until it is melted, when add to it 1 wineglass port wine, 1 teaspoonful Worcester sauce, the same of Harvey sauce, ½ teaspoonful soy, the same of essence of anchovies, and 1 dessertspoonful mushroom ketchup. Stir it over the fire until at boiling point, and send it to table in a warmed butter boat. This sauce will be found good with any kind of grilled bones.
Harvey Sauce.—12 oz. quin sauce, 4 oz. soy, ¼ oz. cayenne.
Horseradish Sauce(Raifort).—Grate a quantity of horseradish, boil it in sufficient water to give it the consistency of sauce, add a pinch of salt and 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls tarragon vinegar, then stir in off the fire 1 gill cream beaten up with the yolk of an egg; or, if a cold sauce is desired, make it as follows: Grate a good-sized stick of horseradish very fine, take the yolks of 2 eggs, ½ gill cream, and mix them well together; add 2 tablespoonfuls vinegar, by degrees to prevent it curdling; pour the mixture over the horseradish, stir all well together, and serve in a small dish. If made in very hot weather, it is better for standing on the ice a little while before serving.
Jam Sauce—Mix ½ pot apricot jam with a cupful of water; warm it on the fire, add a wineglassful of sherry, pass through a fine hair sieve.
Liver Sauce.—Take the livers of any kind of poultry, rabbits, or hares; scald them and mince them finely. Melt a piece of butter in a saucepan, add a little flour to it and a small quantity of minced shallots. Let the whole fry for a minute or two, then add gravy stock in sufficient quantity to make a sauce, a small pinch of powdered sweet herbs and pepper, spices and salt to taste. Put in the minced livers and a glass of port wine. Let the sauce boil for 20 minutes, and at the time of serving add a small piece of fresh butter and the juice of half a lemon.
Lobster Sauce(Homard).—Take a hen lobster, pick out the meat, and break it into pieces, not too small; pound the shell of the lobster and the spawn with some butter till a smooth paste, pass it through a sieve; make 1 pint melted butter, put the meat from the lobster into it, add a dust of cayenne, and when the sauce boils stir into it the lobster butter that has come through the sieve, and ½ pint cream.
Maître d’Hôtel Butter.—(a) Put 2 oz. fresh butter into a basin, with the juice of a lemon, pepper and salt to taste, and a small quantity of parsley freed from moisture and finely minced. Incorporate the whole well together, and keep it in a cool place till wanted.
(b) Melt ¼ lb. butter in a clean saucepan with some very finely minced shallot (or chives) and parsley, pepper, salt, and the juice of 1 lemon. Stir it well till done, and pour over, or round, the fish or meat with which it is to be served. This recipe is improved by the addition of a couple of spoonfuls of béchamel, or rich white sauce and the yolk of one egg.
Marmalade Sauce(Orange).—Dilute ½ or ¼ pot marmalade—according to amount of sauce required—with half the quantity of water. Boil it up, strain, and pour over the pudding. White wine may be substituted for the water, or a little brandy may be added to the water.
Melted Butter(au Beurre).—(a) Put a piece of butter half the size of an egg into a stewpan; when melted add ½ tablespoonful flour; and stir over the fire a few minutes; add 1 gill hot water, and stir until boiling, then add a good pinch of salt and the yolk of 1 egg previously beaten up with 1 tablespoonful milk, stir it into the butter; strain and serve. (Jane Burtenshaw.)
(b) Melt 1 oz. butter, and add to it 1 dessertspoonful flour, salt, and white pepper to taste; stir on the fire for a minute, then put in a little more than a tumblerful of boiling water; keep on stirring for 5 minutes, but do not let the sauce boil.
Mint Sauce(Menthe).—Chop as finely as possible a quantity of mint leaves, previously washed. Add to them sufficient white wine vinegar and water in equal parts to float them, and a small quantity of powdered sugar. Let the sauce stand for an hour before serving.
Mustard.—(a) 9 oz. water, 8 oz. mustard flour, 2 oz. salt; mix smooth; add 6 oz. more water, mix.
(b) Take a good heaped handful of salt, put it into a jug, pour 1 pint boiling water; let this get cold, then mix it with as much mustard as it will use up, and put the mixed mustard in a jar and cover it; it will keep good, and not dry and discolour in the mustard-pot.
(c) Mix 1 qt. brown mustard seed with a handful each of parsley, chervil, tarragon, and burnet, a teaspoonful of celery seed, and cloves, mace, garlic, and salt according to taste. Put the whole into a basin, with enough wine vinegar to cover the mixture. Let it steep 24 hours, then pound it in a marble mortar. When thoroughly pounded pass it through a fine sieve; add enough vinegar to make the mustard of the desired consistency, and put into jars for use.
(d) Take mixed whole spices, and boil in vinegar with 2 lumps sugar; then mix mustard into a stiff paste with cold vinegar. With a red-hot Italian iron heater stir quickly while you mix the boiling vinegar after straining the spices. This will keep for years, well corked in a wide-necked bottle.
Olive Sauce.—Mix quite smoothly 1 spoonful flour in 4 of good salad oil, add 6 shallots, chopped, with a very little lemon peel, mix with stock and 2 tablespoonfuls vinegar, some pepper and salt, and a bay leaf. Boil for 20 minutes, and strain. Place on the fire again, and add 6-8 stoned olives, cut up small. Serve round a mince of mutton.
Onion Sauce(pauvre homme).—(a) Peel and parboil some onions, drain, and cut them in quarters, put them into a stewpan with sufficient well-flavoured white stock to cover them; keep on the lid, and simmer gently until quite tender, pass them through a sieve; add to the pulp sufficient milk, cream, or béchamel sauce as will be necessary to make the sauce; stir over the fire until quite hot, add seasoning of pepper and salt if required, and it is ready.
(b) Parboil some onions a few minutes, mince them roughly and put them into a saucepan, with plenty of butter, a pinch of sugar and pepper and salt to taste; let them cook slowly, so that they do not take colour, and add 1 tablespoonful flour. When they are quite tender pass them through a hair sieve. Dilute the onion pulp with sufficient milk to make the sauce of the desired consistency; add a tablespoonful of Parmesan cheese, stir well, make it hot, and serve.
(c) Boil some onions in milk, with pepper, salt, and nutmeg. When quite done pass them through a sieve. Put some butter and flour into a saucepan; when the butter is melted and well mixed with the flour put in the pulp of the onions, and add either milk or cream, stirring the sauce on the fire until it is of the desired consistency.
Orange Sauce(Bigarade).—Pare off, as thinly as possible, the yellow rind of 2 Seville oranges; cut it into very thin shreds, and boil them in water for 5 minutes. Melt a piece of butter in a saucepan, add to it 1 tablespoonful flour, and stir until it begins to colour; add a gill of stock, pepper and salt to taste, the juice of the oranges, and a good pinch of sugar; then put in the boiled rinds, stir the sauce until it boils, and serve.
Oyster Sauce(aux Huîtres).—(a) Parboil the oysters in their own liquor, beard them, and reserve all the liquor. Melt a piece of butter in a saucepan, add a little flour, the oyster liquor, and enough milk to make as much sauce as is wanted. Put in a blade of mace and a bay leaf tied together, pepper and salt to taste, and the least dust of cayenne. Let the sauce come to the boil, add the oysters, and as soon as they are quite hot remove the mace and bay leaf. Stir in a few drops of lemon juice, and serve.
(b) To make this in perfection is really one of the simplest operations in cookery Open 24 oysters; scald them, beard and wash them, and strain the liquor from them very carefully. Put all this into a stewpan of rich melted butter; let the oysters get thoroughly hot through; add the juice of a lemon, and serve.
(c) Mock.—1 teacupful good gravy, 1 of milk, 3 dessertspoons anchovy sauce, 2 of mushroom ketchup, 2 oz. butter, 1 teaspoonful pounded mace, whole black pepper. All to be boiled until thoroughly mixed.
Parsley(au Persil).—(a) Pick the parsley while quite green, wash it in cold water to remove all dust, &c., cut off all the stalks, and lay it on paper before the fire till quite crisp. It is never so good a colour if dried in the oven. Crumble it in your hands, then pass it through a wire sieve, which will retain all the stalks and let the parsley go through; put it into wide-mouthed bottles, and cork tightly. When required for use, boil it with a little soda for 5 minutes.
(b) And Butter.—Melt 1 oz. butter, and add to it 1 dessertspoonful flour, salt, and white pepper to taste; stir on the fire for 2 minutes, add a little more than 1 tumblerful boiling water by degrees, and a small quantity of parsley, blanched and finely chopped; keep on stirring for 5 minutes, but do not let the sauce boil.
(c) Fried.—Pick out a number of sprigs as much of a size as possible, hold them together by the stalks, and shake them repeatedly in cold water, so as to thoroughly wash them; then shake out the water from them, and dry them thoroughly and effectually in a cloth, cut off the stalks close, put the parsley in the frying basket, and dip it for abouta minute in boiling hot lard or oil, never ceasing the while to shake the basket. Turn out the parsley on a napkin in the screen in front of the fire to drain. Parsley should be fried just before it is wanted.
Pepper Pot.—(a) Get a buck pot (those made by the Buck Indians in Demerara are the best), and put into it 1 qt. cold water, 3 tablespoonfuls cassareep, salt to suit taste, and a handful of “bird” peppers. Your meat must be well cooked, and after cutting it into small pieces throw it into the liquor in the pot, and let it boil for ¾ hour. The pepper-pot is now fit for use, but you will find it better and more palatable when many days old. You can from day to day add any broken pieces of meat left from table, taking care to warm your pot every day, to see that the meat is always covered with gravy, and never to put fish into it. You may put hard-boiled eggs and cooked meats of all sorts, whether fresh or salted; the greater the variety, the sweeter your pot. When fresh gravy is added (i.e. your qt. of water, and 3 tablespoonfuls cassareep, &c.) you must take care to have your pot boil for ¾ hour, as at first. Take care not to cover your pot, when put aside, till cool. Pork and ox tail are the best things to start the pot with. The “odds and ends” are scraps of any sort of flesh or fowl, drumsticks, &c. When handed round (the pot itself should come to table neatly covered with a table napkin), rice (of course boiled separately) should be handed at the same time, and on no account put into the pot. If a proper “buck” pot cannot be obtained, a round earthenware one is a fair substitute.