The necessity of corresponding stops and marks on the two stages is shown in “The Duel.” A mark on the floor directs where to place the feet; slender black rods, set in a weighted foot, mark places for the body, feet, or hands; and suspended wires or cords answer the same purpose. But such marks may be, as in the case of “The Milliner,” some part of the furnishing of the apartment, as there we see taking place with mere clothes’ props; or, indeed, as in “The Gipsy’s Promise,” the very person of the actor.
As the entire person is, sometimes, not required to be seen, it is always easy to exclude any portion by employing a black dress, screen, or curtain, as in “A Hand seen Writing.”
A curious result is obtained by appearing to give animation to the inanimate. This may be seen in “The Otranto Picture,” where the actor standing within a framed recess has all the appearance of a painted full-length portrait, the stepping of which from the canvas realises a romantic story of “The Castle of Otranto.”
The absence of all machinery or trap-doors to get rid of “The Ghost” can be rendered strikingly obvious in two ways: first, by the very gradual dissolving of the vision until it becomes thoroughly transparent; or, secondly, by placing in the hand some very bright object, either a dagger, sword, censor, or small enclosed light. By using a night light, having a paper or ground-glass shade, the same will appear as though floating in the air after entirely losing sight of every other spectral object.
Yet trap-doors and machinery may become accessories in many scenes. “The Wizard’s Incantation” requires a duplicate caldron, which on the spectre stage is merely an upright circular frame around a trap-door, through which the spectre actor has to be raised to be presented to the audience by reflection. So also in “The Spectre Workman,” simultaneous action is produced by an underground shaft, which in some cases may be otherwise produced; even bell-wires, cords, and the like serving for many purposes, as illustrated in “The Ghost of China.”
The method of double acting is shown in “The Witch’s Laundry,” producing some strangely startling results. One or both of two actors may, by changing to the oppositestage, become alternately spectral or solid. What they are seen acting as real actors becomes wildly ridiculous when converted into spectral acts. If after two actors going through performances decidedly requiring mutual intercourse, one adroitly passes to the spectral stage, then his friend, or his adversary, cannot any longer succeed in friendly intercourse, or commit any fatal act by means of sword or pistol.
Advantage may be taken in many scenes of the marvellous property of the phantom to overpower and conceal the colour and features of a corresponding substance. In “Metamorphoses,” this is made evident by the facility shown in causing the human figure to take the form of a branching tree, which the wizard can readily disenchant, reproducing a living actor or actress. By such means the classic stories of Ovid, or the sprightly and wonderful creations of the Arabian Nights, may be set before an admiring audience; and when the changes cannot be exactly thus realised, the mechanical arrangements for turning one actor from and another actor into view, aided by screens, is so exceedingly simple as to render minute details superfluous. Actors may appear to dress and change with the rapidity of lightning; age may become youth, andvice versâ; and even, a gorilla might step forth an altered creature to trip the “light fantastic toe!”
In some scenes the peculiarity may consist in the spectre passing off undiscovered, and only be traced by its phantom accompaniments, as in “The Doubtful Visitor,” who sitting on the same couch with a lady, departs without any other strangeness of action than leaving behind some portions of her phantom dress.
In pantomime and legerdemain the Optical Illusions eclipse every extravaganza hitherto conceived for making the “eyes the fools o’ the other senses.” And what is still more remarkable, this portion of the subject is so exceedingly simple to perform that, although short, yet sufficient directions will be found in the description of scenes under the respective titles of “Pantomime” and “Jugglers.”
These few observations appeared requisite to impress on the general reader that each of the preceding scenes involves some peculiarity in arrangement to produce the effect described, and that, therefore, they are not all on one model. Some show the actors apart, some together, and afterwards separate; some with and some without machinery of any kind; some with phantom actors, others with only phantom dresses or furniture; and others again employing animals, as the horse, dog, &c.
The mechanical portion of the arrangements are too various to enter upon in minute description, but they are generally of such a nature as any practical workman employed on theatrical machinery will readily understand. The modes of arranging the transparent mirror are as numerous as in the employment of ordinary mirrors. It may be used framed, or for some purposes without any frame whatever; it may be suspended and slide on framework placed above, by means of pulleys, thus leaving the stage floor free from any grooving or any raised portion. Or, it may be made to swing like a hinged door, whether hinged at top, bottom, or either side. Or, it may turn on centres, so as to be half in and half out, when turned to right angles with its common position, being thus capable of regulation to any desired angle. It is also obvious that the position of the mirror necessitates a corresponding change in the placing of the spectre stage, so that the one shall always be opposite the other. As it is not requisite to cover the entire front of the stage with one or more mirrors, their use may often be artistically concealed by pillars, trees, or similar devices, in which case the spectral effects will be limited to such mirrored portions. When out of use, these large mirrors can be made to slide, sink, or rise, as done with the scenes in general use.
Games.—Space being limited, choice is made here of a few games not generally known.
Bézique(Polish).—Polish bézique, sometimes called open bézique, or Fildinski, is played by 2 persons in the same way as ordinary bézique, except in the following particulars. The tricks are not left on the table at Polish bézique, but are thusdisposed of: 7’s, 8’s, 9’s, and 10’s (except the 10’s of trumps) are turned face down on the table as soon as a trick containing any of them is completed. These cards must not be looked at again during the hand. Other cards, which are cards that can be used in declaring, are taken by the winner of the trick, and placed by him face up on the table close in front of himself, in rows, consisting of aces, kings, queens, and knaves, and of the 10’s of trumps. At the end of the hand all cards that can be used in declaring are thus exposed or open on the table. Having been once played, they can only be used in declaring, and cannot be played a second time. Whether declared or not, they remain open during the hand and the play of the last 8 tricks.
Declarations can only be made from open cards, and never from cards held in the player’s hand. This is the fundamental difference between Polish and ordinary bézique. As soon as a trick is won containing a card or cards that can be used in declaring, those cards are transferred to the open cards (if any) already in possession of the winner of the trick, and as soon as a card is won that completes a scoring combination, the declaration is made and the score marked.
For example. A. has 3 open queens, and he wins a trick containing a queen. Before drawing again, he places the fourth queen in the row which contains the other 3 queens, and scores 60 for queens.
The 7 of trumps can be exchanged for the turn up when a trick is won with it, but not when a trick is won with another card by a player who holds the 7 in his hand. Similarly the 7, if not exchanged, can be declared when a trick is won with it. If the 7 of trumps is played, and is won with a higher trump, the winner of the trick declares or exchanges the 7. The principle is the same throughout, viz. that declarations are made only out of cards won, and by the winner of them.
At Polish bézique compound declarations are allowed, i.e. all the scores that can be made when cards are added to open cards are made at once, and the same card may be declared more than once (in combinations of a different class), without waiting to win another trick. The ordinary rule that a card once declared cannot be again declared in combinations of the same class, e.g. a king once married cannot be married again; a fifth ace added to 4 aces already declared does not entitle to reckon aces over again.
As examples of compound declarations take the following: A. wins the queen of faintest possible tinge—the shadow or phantom appearing to overwhelm the coloured trumps with the king. He has in his open cards 3 kings, 4 queens, and the ace, 10, knave of trumps. He declares royal marriage (40), 4 kings (80), but not 4 queens, as he cannot again reckon any of the 4 queens already declared in that class of combination, and sequence (250), in all 370.
Again, the ace of spades is turned up, and the ace of hearts is led. The second player wins the ace of hearts with the 7 of trumps, and exchanges the 7 for the turn up. He scores 10 for the exchange, and 10 for each of the aces he adds to his open cards—in all 30. If at the same time he were in possession of 2 other open aces, he would score 100 more for 4 aces.
At Polish bézique aces and 10’s must be declared as soon as the trick is won, and not at the end of the hand, a mode of scoring preferred by some players at ordinary bézique.
In the play of the hand it is not compulsory to follow suit nor to win the trick, and a player may win the trick by trumping notwithstanding that he holds a card of the suit led. But in the last 8 tricks suit must be followed if the second player has one of the suit led. The trick in the last 8 tricks must also be won by the second player if he has a higher card of the suit than the one led. If he has none of the suit led, and has a trump, he must win the card led by trumping.
Declarations do not cease at Polish bézique when playing the last 8 tricks. They are made just as in the early part of the hand after winning a trick and before leading again.
Polish bézique is generally played 2000 up, as the average scores are considerably higher than at ordinary bézique.
Block.Implements.—A board as in Fig. 105, the figures not being necessary, except when the game is played by correspondence—they are placed here to simplify the examples—16 pegs, and 2 King pegs; 12 pegs and the King pegs being required for play, the 4 remaining pegs are a reserve force of 2 for each player.
Play.—Divide the pegs, one player taking the White, the other the Black. The first to play is decided by lot. Each player then places a peg into one of the holes in turn, occupying those which he may consider the most advantageous, until the 12 pegs and the 2 King pegs have been placed. Then each moves one of his pegs in turn, but only one hole at a time, and as the lines run.
Points of the Game.—To Block, to Force, and to Make a Line.
(a) To block is to get a peg on each side of one of your adversary’s: this, if an ordinary peg, is its capture, and it is immediately removed off the board.
105. Block.
105. Block.
105. Block.
Example.—Black having a peg in 1, and White playing a peg in 2, Black captures that peg by playing a peg in 3; but White having a peg in 4 can capture Black’s peg in 3 by playing another peg in 2; or White having pegs in 1, 10, and 24, and Black a peg in 9 could block Black’s peg by playing peg 24 either into 17 or 16.
But to block the King peg, the other holes surrounding him must be filled, though it is of no consequence by whose pegs. To block the King peg is game. His only means of escape is by immediately capturing one of the pegs blocking; if he cannot do this, and cannot move, the game is over.
Example.—Black’s King peg being in 3, and White having a peg in 4, is not blocked by White placing a peg in 2, because the hole 11 is unoccupied. Or supposing Black to occupy 11 (King peg), and 3, and White 2, 12 and 19, the game would be lost to Black by White playing 2 to 10, which blocks the King; but if Black had a peg in 17, 16 or 1 to immediately play into 9 he would capture 10, which is one of the blocking pegs, and so liberate the King peg. The other blocking peg is 12. Capturing 19 would be of no avail, neither would moving his own peg 3.
(b) To force is to get 2 pegs on a line with one of your adversary’s, in which case you force him to move that peg to the first vacant hole on its square, in whichever direction it may occur, and in the event of there not being one vacant on its square, to whichever square has the nearest.
Example.—Black, occupying hole 1, could force White from hole 3 by placing a peg in hole 2 in which case White’s peg 3 would have to move to 4; or by occupying holes 11 and 19, when White would have 2 holes at equal distance—4 and 2; and could move into either unless the forcer gave the preference.
If the King peg be forced, a peg is thereby gained from the reserve which is placed in the hole vacated by the King.
(c) To make a line is to get 3 of your pegs on one line in any way but diagonally, in which case the third or last peg moved to make the line can be at once removed to any vacant hole on the board.
Example.—By occupying holes 1 2 3, 2 10 18, 9 10 11; in fact any way but from corner to corner as 1 9 17 or 19 11 3.
If your adversary insists upon maintaining a peg in a hole to your great disadvantage, play your pegs so as to force him from it, having first prepared a hole for him to moveinto. That is to say, be careful that the hole you force him into does not attack your position, as—Black’s pegs in 2, 4, and 7; White’s pegs in 1 and 6; now Black, moving peg 4 to 3, forces White’s peg 1, which is compelled to move to hole 8, and so captures Black’s peg 7. On the contrary, if Black occupied holes 2, 6, 7, 9, 11, and White holes 1, 4, 5, by Black playing peg 11 into 3, White’s peg 1 is forced into 8, and it being Black’s next move, he occupies hole 1 with his 9 peg, or 2 peg, and so captures the peg he forced. The great point is to place the pegs in a good position at the commencement of the game.
Rules.—1. Each player places one peg in turn, and when all are placed, moves in the same manner, but only as the lines run, and one hole at a time.
2. A force made during the placing of the pegs does not interfere with that player’s turn; that is to say, if White in playing the pegs occupies hole 1, and Black hole 3, Black would be forced by White taking hole 2 and would have to move, but would immediately afterwards place his peg as was his turn.
3. The placing of a peg gained from the reserve into the hole vacated by King peg does not count as a move, consequently any advantage so gained isnil.
4. The playing a peg when forced counts the same as its move, and reaps any advantage gained by occupying the hole it is forced into.
5. A forced peg, having the preference of 2 holes to move into, can be compelled by the forcer to occupy either.
6. A made block or made force is of no advantage; that is to say, if Black occupied holes 1 and 3, White could put a peg in hole 2 without being captured; or Black possessing holes 1 and 2, White could place a peg in 3 without being forced. The same applies to a peg when forced into such a position.
7. Any advantage gained in a move, and not noticed before the next move, cannot be counted.
8. A person drawing a peg is compelled to move it, and on the event of its being placed in a hole, must there leave it.
9. A peg played to force or block cannot claim the advantage of a line if it make one by so playing, for instance, Black in 1, 6, 8, and 23, a white peg being in 15; Black by playing 6 to 7 can either take it as a line or block 15, but not both. Neither can 2 pegs be forced or blocked in the one move. The player has the preference in each case. A peg can, however, block and force in the one move.
Example.—White occupying holes 9 and 8, and Black holes 15 and 24, Black by getting a peg into 16 forces both 8 and 9; he therefore compels his adversary to move whichever is most to the forcer’s advantage. Or white in 10, 19, 13, with Black in 9 and 12, captures peg 12, and forces peg 9, by moving from 19 to 11.
10. A player, whose turn it is to move, having his pegs so surrounded that he cannot—draws the game.
11. A player having the whole of his pegs (9) on the board can gain no more by forcing the King.
12. A game being reduced to only 3 pegs on the board can be drawn, if not won in 20 moves. (H. E. Heather,Amateur Chess Magazine.)
Chancery.—This new round game at cards requires no tuition, and can be played by the smallest child, and by any number.
If the company does not exceed 5 or 6, one pack of cards is sufficient; if it does exceed that number, extra cards are preferable.
A pool is then subscribed, say 5 counters by each player; that is generally enough to keep it floating for some time, though should it run out another subscription is called for immediately.
The cards are then scattered in the centre of the table, with their faces downwards. Each player then draws one in turn, displaying it before him and calling what it is. Should it only be an ordinary card or picture drawn each time let the cards drawn lie ina heap before the player; should aces be drawn spread them conspicuously in front of the others.
The cards to score points are:
1. The majority in possession when all are drawn.
2. The majority of court cards.
3. Every ace.
4. Every ace to which you have also drawn the deuce of the same suit.
Should any player draw the deuce of the same suit as an ace drawn he calls the owner’s attention to the fact, who immediately places the ace with his other cards, it being “killed” and reduced in value. Should a deuce be drawn before the ace of its suit it must be replaced with the others again, and another card be taken, the cards being previously shuffled. A player drawing the deuce of the same suit as an ace in his possession places it upon the ace, and keeps them separate from the others, as they score the most points. If a card drawn pairs with the player on either side, the person drawing the pairing card has immediately to pass all his cards to the one so paired, and pay a forfeit of one point to the pool.
When all the cards have been taken the pool-master (it is best always to appoint one player to occupy this post, or confusion is apt to ensue) pays out the points scored as follows:
1. For the majority of cards, 1 point.
2. For each ace on which the deuce has not been drawn, 2 points.
3. For majority of pictures, 3 points.
4. For each ace on which the deuce has been drawn, 4 points.
The cards are then mixed for a fresh start, and the pool again subscribed if run low.
Laws.—1. Each player to take but one card, and in turn; departure from this rule a fine of one to the pool.
2. If a deuce is drawn before the ace, it is to be replaced; if drawn after the ace, and replaced in mistake, it cannot be recovered, provided the ace was conspicuously displayed; the player so doing loses his turn and pays one to the pool.
3. A player turning a card other than that he draws pays one to the pool.
4. A player pairing with the last card drawn by the person on either side of him passes all his cards to that player and pays one to the pool. Should it so happen that he pairs with both, the one on the left has the preference.
5. It is not necessary that a player should have any cards in his possession to be paired with; the last card he drew, whether he has lost it or not, is the one to count.
6. Any dispute to be settled by pool-master.
7. Pool-master to be chosen for each game if desired. (H. E. Heather).
Dominoes.—A set of dominoes usually consists of 28 oblong cards, each consisting of 2 squares united; no 2 pieces are alike, they being distinguished by pips. It is important for the learner to bear in mind that there are 7 dominoes of each number, and that each number is joined to one of each of the others. The calculations of the game are founded on these facts.
Dominoes are usually made with bone or ivory faces and ebony backs. They are shuffled, or “made,” as it is technically termed, by being turned downwards on the table, and mixed quickly by a light pressure and rapid movement with the hands.
On the Continent, where the game is usually played on a marble or hardwood table, the dominoes have frequently a projecting metal stud in the middle of the face; this enables them to be mixed with greater facility on smooth surfaces, but prevents their being effectually shuffled on one covered with a cloth, unless a large sheet of cardboard is interposed. Care should be taken that the back of the dominoes should not be stained or marked, as, if only one is thus capable of being distinguished, it lessens inthe highest degree the interest of the game. They should be of good size, as small sets are very inconvenient to play with, and of sufficient thickness to stand firmly on their edges, with their faces turned towards the player and their backs towards his opponent.
As the game usually played is 100, a marker is convenient to score the successive additions made by each player. On the Continent very convenient markers are used; but there is a simple plan of making them extemporaneously with a visiting card. This is to be cut as shown in Fig. 106.
106. Domino Marker.
106. Domino Marker.
106. Domino Marker.
By turning back the nicks along the dotted lines the number marked on each is scored; a card so notched will score up to 99, and will answer for a large number of games before it becomes useless by the nicks breaking off.
The dominoes having been shuffled face downwards on the table, one of the two players pushes 2 towards the other, who selects one of the two, leaving the other for his opponent. Both are then turned up, and the player who has the highest number has the lead, or “pose,” as it is called. In England it is frequent for the holder of the 6-6 (double six) to pose first—a stupid plan, as it quite spoils the first hand, inasmuch as 6-6 may be a very bad domino to play from the dominoes held.
The 2 dominoes drawn and exposed are again mixed with the others, the non-leader mixing for them last. Each player then selects 7 dominoes; the leader plays one, placing it face upwards on the table, and the opponent matches it from his own hand, playing at either end as he thinks fit.
Thus, if the first player plays 4-5, the second may play either a 5 to his 5, or, should he think it more advantageous, a 4 to the 4, thus:
If a double is played first, which gives the second player only one number to play to, it is usual to place the double in a cross.
In either case the first player plays again, and so on alternately until one or other has played out, when he scores the pips on the domino or dominoes remaining in his opponent’s hand.
If one player cannot play at either end, he says “go,” when his opponent plays on until some number is posed to which he can play. If neither can play, both hands are shown, and the one that has the fewest pips wins the score, which should consist of the whole of the opponent’s pips as well as his own added together. After a score the dominoes are turned and mixed, the pose or lead being taken alternately.
Persons who know but little of the game think that the best play is at once to get rid of the heaviest dominoes, but this is not necessarily the case; but with a heavy hand, every care should be taken not to let the opponent close the game leaving you with a heavy score. In this most simple English game the aim of the player should be to make his long suit, and prevent his opponent playing.
Following are a few examples of hands played in the ordinary English game with 7 pieces. In this game the player sees his whole hand of seven at once, and he knows that his opponent has also seven, or one-third of the remainder; the other 14 dominoes are untouched, and he can make his calculations and play his game accordingly. In this game, each player plays alternately, until one or other has played all his dominoes, when he scores the number of pips left in his opponent’s hand. Should either beunable to play, the other continues until he brings a card to which his opponent can play. Should both players be unable to play, then the one who has the least number of pips scores, not only those in his opponent’s hand, but his own also. To give an example. Suppose 2 players, A. and B., playing the English game, and having drawn for pose, A. plays first from the following hand:—6-6, 5-2, 5-0, 4-3, 4-0, 2-2, 2-1.
An inexperienced player would probably play his 6-6, that being a heavy card, and in all probability he would lose the score if his opponent had 2 or 3 sixes in his hand.
The proper play would be the 2-2, as it gives B. only one number to play to, and if, as not unfrequently happens, B. has no twos, A. has the chance of a splendid game.
Let us take B.’s hand as follows:—6-4, 6-3, 6-1, 5-4, 5-1, 3-0, 1-1.
A. plays 2-2. As B. cannot play, A. plays again, selecting the card of which he has most (so as to lessen B.’s chance as much as possible), this would be the 2-5, as he has 2 fives in his hand and only a single one. If B. plays 5-1, which offers his best chance of success, A. will play 1-2, and the game will be shut up. On counting the pips, A. will be found to have 22 and B. 46. A. consequently scores 68 towards the game of 100.
If, on the contrary, A. plays the 6-6, he may lose, and he cannot possibly win as many as he could have done with the previous play.
If B. replies to 6-6 with 6-1, A. would then play 1-2, B. 6-4, A. 2-2, B. 4-5, A. would close the game by making 2-all, viz. 2 at both ends, by placing 5-2 to the 5 end, and his score would be 36, made up of B.’s 20 pips and A.’s own 16.
A hand with 3 or 4 of any one number is better than a hand with only 2 of each sort, even supposing the first to be much the heavier, as it gives a command of the game, and enables the holder to shut his adversary out and to play his own dominoes as he likes, closing the game if he thinks fit.
Thus take the following hands, A. to play first with the heavy pieces, viz.: 6-6, 6-4, 6-3, 6-1, 5-4, 5-2, 5-1, and B. to be his opponent with the light hand: 5-0, 4-1, 3-3, 3-1, 2-2, 2-1.
If A. commences with 6-6, B. must lose, provided A. plays with the most ordinary skill.
The principle of the game is to play so as to bring the numbers of which you hold most (and therefore in all probability your opponent least) at the ends; by this means you play out more dominoes than he does, and you often have the opportunity of closing the game. But this must be done with judgment, for it sometimes may happen that the player who shuts up the game loses, as his opponent may have a less number than he has, and win the score. It is this uncertainty which gives interest to the game, for to close the game and win when the numbers are nearly equal shows the skill and judgment of the player.
Mill.—This is a good evening game for boys. It somewhat resembles draughts, and is easily manufactured as follows: Take a sheet of stiff white cardboard, such as is sold for mounting water-colour drawings, &c., draw on it 3 oblong squares (Fig. 107) one within the other; the outside square, say 18 in. by 14 in., the second 14 in. by 10 in., and the third 10 in. by 6 in. Unite the 3 squares by drawing 4 opposite lines from the centre square to the outside square, so as to make 4 passages, enabling the players to move their men from one square to the other. Fig. 107 shows the board, with a game in progress.
In this game the black men are supposed to be winning. At the right hand black has a double mill, and a single mill at the top; white has a double mill also, but is afraid to open it, as black would instantly seize his man.
The lines forming each square should be ½ in. wide. The board can be made in a few minutes with the help of a flat rule with the inches marked on it. “Mill” is played by 2 people, each of whom has nine men; draught men will do. Having chosen who is to commence, begin by placing a man on any part of the board, either at the corner of asquare or in the centre, of on one of the 4 lines.The men must not be placed in the intermediate spaces.Each line holds a mill, which consists of 3 men in a row, and the object of each player is to make a mill, and to prevent his adversary from making one. When a mill is made call out “mill,” and remove one of your opponent’s men, provided it does not form one of a mill, which cannot be broken as long as it remains closed; try, if possible, to get a double mill, that is, 5 men so placed that by moving one man either forwards or backwards you make a mill each time. If you can get 3 men on 3 corners of one square—which, if your opponent is a good player, he will prevent your doing—you are certain at all events of one mill, if not of a double one. When all the men are on the board you can move a man in any direction on the lines and up or down the cross lines into the other squares, but you must not cross the squares in any other way but by the passages; each passage will hold a mill. A move is from the corner of either square, on the line, to the centre, or back again, so on all round the squares if necessary—i.e. supposing you have only 3 men left, the rest having fallen to your opponent’s skill, and these 3 are in different parts of the board, you must move them till you have succeeded in joining them into a mill. When you have one or more mills, open either by moving a man forward (taking care that your opponent has not a mill ready to be closed, as he will then take your man and break your mill), and when you close it again remove one of your adversary’s men not forming part of a mill. When a mill is open it is of course in danger. The most amusing part of the game is when each has arrived at his last mill and is trying to destroy his opponent’s. The board may also be made of 2 very thin pieces of wood, joined by 2 hinges in the centre, so as to fold it up when not in use, painted white or black, and the squares and passages painted gold or scarlet.
107. Mill.108. Pachîsî.
107. Mill.108. Pachîsî.
107. Mill.108. Pachîsî.
Pachîsî.—This is a variety of the game of draughts as played by the natives of India, as good as, if not superior to, the English game. The freedom of moving in any direction, and the fact that it is not obligatory to accept a force, make the game one entirely of tactics, and are productive of many phases before the game is finished. The rules are few and simple. The name Pachîsî is derived from the Oriental expression for “25”—the number of posts in the square (Fig. 108):aare places for the men when off the board.
Pachîsî is played with a board as in Fig. 108, and 16 pieces on each side. The centre line of posts is left vacant. A piece may be moved in any direction along any line (and this includes advancing, retiring, and a lateral or diagonal move), but no farther than one post. Captures are made as in draughts, and are not limited in number, i.e. each piece has the power of a crowned piece in ordinary draughts. It is not obligatoryto capture an adverse piece when it is possible to do so. The game is won precisely as in draughts, by capturing all the adverse pieces, or by the adversary being unable to move.
Poker.—Poker is a round game at cards, much played in America, but scarcely known in this country. Recently it has found favour here. The deal is determined by throwing a card to each player, the lowest having the first deal, and the deal afterwards proceeding to the left, as at whist. A pack of 52 cards is used. It is better not to play with more than 6 players.
The dealer, beginning with the person at his left, throws round 5 cards to each player, giving one card at a time. The dealer shuffles and makes up the pack himself, or it may be done by the player at his left, and the player at his right must cut.
To begin the pool, the player next to the dealer on his left must put up money, which is called an “ante,” and then in succession each player, passing round to the left, must, after looking at his hand, determine if he goes in or not; and each person deciding to play for the pool must put in twice the amount of the ante. Those who decline to play throw up their cards face downwards on the table, and for convenience in front of the next dealer.
When all who wish to play have gone in, the person putting up the ante can either give up all interest in the pool, thus forfeiting the ante which has been put up, or else can play like the others who have gone in, by “making good,” that is, putting up in addition to the ante as much more as will make him equal in stake to the rest.
If a number of players have gone in, it is best generally for the ante-man to make good and go in, even with a poor hand, because half his stake is already up, and he can therefore stay in for half as much as the others have had to put up, which is a percentage in favour of his taking the risk. This of course does not apply if any one has “raised,” that is, more than doubled the ante, before it comes around to the starting point.
Any one at the time of going in must put up as much as double the ante, and may put up as much more as he pleases, by way of “raising” the ante; in which case, every other player must put up as much as will make his stake equal to such increase, or else abandon what he has already put in.
Each player as he makes good, and equals the others who are in before him, can thus increase the ante if he chooses, compelling the others still to come up to that increase, or to abandon their share in the pool.
All “going in,” or “raising” of the pool, as well as all betting afterwards, must be in regular order, going round by the left; no one going in, making good, increasing the ante, or betting, except in turn. When all are in equally who intend to play, each player in turn will have the privilege of drawing; that is, of throwing away any number of his 5 cards, and drawing as many others, to try to better his hand. The cards thus thrown up must be placed face downwards on the table, and, for convenience, in front of or near the next dealer.
The dealer, passing around to the left, will ask each player in turn how many cards he will have, and deal him the number asked for, from the top of the pack, without their being seen. The dealer if he has gone in to play for the pool will, in like manner, help himself last.
The players must throw away their discarded cards before taking up, or looking at those they draw.
In the game every player is for himself and against all others, and to that end will not let any of his cards be seen, nor betray the value of his hand by drawing or playing out of his turn, or by change of countenance or any other sign. It is a great object to mystify your adversaries up to the “call” when hands have to be shown. To this end it is permitted to chaff or talk nonsense with a view of misleading your adversaries as to the value of your hand, but this must be without unreasonably delaying the game.
When the drawing is all complete, the betting goes around in order, like the drawing,to the left. The ante man is the first to bet, unless he has declined to play, and in that case the first to bet is the player nearest to the dealer on his left. But the player entitled to bet first may withhold his bet until the others have bet round to him, which is called “holding the age,” and this, being an advantage, should, as a general rule, be practised. Each better in turn must put into the pool a sum equal at least to the first bet made; but each may in turn increase the bet or raise it as it comes to him; in which case the bets, proceeding around in order, must be made by each player in his turn equal to the highest amount put in by any one, or else, failing to do that, the party who fails must go out of the play, forfeiting his interest in the pool.
When a player puts in only as much as has been put in by each player who has preceded him, that is called “seeing” the bet. When a player puts in that much, and raises it, that is called seeing the bet and “going better.”
When the bet goes around to the last better or player who remains in, if he does not wish to see and go better, he simply sees and “calls,” and then all playing must show their hands, and the highest hand wins the pool. When any one declines to see the bet, or the increase of bet which has been made, he “lays down” his hand, that is, throws it up with the cards, face downwards, on the table. If all the other players throw down their hands, the one who remains in to the last wins, and takes the pool without showing his hand.
To “bluff” is to take the risk of betting high enough on a poor hand or a worthless one to make all the other players lay down their hands without seeing or calling you.
When a hand is complete, so that the holder of it can play without drawing to better it, that is called a “pat” hand. A bold player will sometimes decline to draw any cards, and pretend to have a pat hand, and play it as such, when he has none.
A skilful player will watch and observe what each player draws, the expression of the face, the circumstances and manner of betting, and judge, or try to judge, of the nature of each hand opposed to him accordingly.
No one is bound to answer the question, how many cards he drew, except the dealer; and the dealer is not bound to tell after the betting has begun.
Drawing.—If the player determines to draw to a pair, he draws 3 cards.
If he draws to 2 pairs, he draws one card. If he holds 3 to begin with, he draws 2 cards, in order to have the best chance of making a full, inasmuch as, in playing, pairs are apt to run together. But, to deceive his adversaries and make them think he has nothing better than 2 pairs, a sharp player will often draw but one card to his 3’s.
It is advisable sometimes to keep an ace or other high card as an “outsider,” with a small pair, and draw but one card—thus taking the chance of matching the high cards and so getting a good 2 pairs, or something better possibly—while at the same time others may be deceived into believing that the player is drawing to 3’s.
When drawing to cards of the same suit to try to make a flush, or to cards of successive denominations to try to make a sequence, as many more cards are to be taken as will be needed to fill out the flush or the sequence. But it is seldom advisable to venture in to draw for either a flush or a sequence when more than one card is required to complete the hand.
When a player holds 4’s in his original hand it is as good as it can be, and yet it is best to throw away the outside card and draw one, because others may then think he is only drawing to 2 pairs, or for a flush or a sequence, and will not suspect the great value of the hand. When one is in (as he ought seldom to be) without even so much as a pair, his choice must be either to discard 4 cards, or 3 cards, and draw to the highest, or 2 highest in the hand, or throw away the whole hand and draw 5, or look content and serious, stand pat, and bet high!
The player determining to try this last alternative on a worthless hand had generally better begin by raising when he goes in, or else nobody will be likely to believe in his pretended strong hand.
Relative Value of Hands in their Order, beginning with the Best.—1. A Sequence Flush: Which is a sequence of 5 cards, and all of the same suit.
2. Fours: Which is 4 out of the 5 cards, of the same denomination.
3. A Full: Which is a hand consisting of 3 cards of the same denomination, and 2 of likewise equal denomination.
4. A Flush: Which is all 5 cards of the same suit.
5. A Sequence: Which is all 5 cards not of the same suit, but all in sequence. (In computing the value of a sequence an ace counts either as the highest or lowest card, that is, below a deuce or above a king.)
6. Threes: Which is 3 cards of the same denomination, but the other 2 of different denominations from each other.
7. Two Pairs.
8. One Pair.
9. Highest Card: When a hand has neither of the above, the count is by the cards of highest value or denomination. [Ace is highest.]
When parties opposed, each holds a pair, the highest pair wins, and the same when each party holds 3’s or 4’s.
When each party holds 2 pairs, the highest pair determines the relative value of the hands.
When each party holds a sequence, the hand commencing with the highest card in sequence wins; so also when two or more parties hold flushes against each other.
That full counts highest of which the 3 cards of the same denomination are highest. The 2 cards of the same denomination help only to constitute the full, but do not add to the value of the hand.
When hands are equal so far that each party holds a pair or 2 pairs of exactly the same value, then the next highest card or cards in each hand must be compared with the next highest card or cards in the other hand to determine which wins.
In case of the highest hands (which very seldom occurs) being exactly equal, the pool is divided.
The main elements of success in the game are: (1) good luck, (2) good cards, (3) plenty of cheek, and (4) good temper. (The Field.)
Vint, or Siberian Whist.—This game is at present much played and is very popular in Russia, and comprises some very interesting features. The scoring appears complicated, but is not really so, and may be easily learnt in one evening’s play.
It is similar to whist, with the difference that there are many more combinations, and the rewards and penalties are greater. The object is to make the number of tricks you declare, with a certain suit for trumps, or without trumps, according to the declaration; but should a less number of tricks be obtained, then a penalty of a certain number of points is scored to the opponents, according to the number of tricks short of the number declared. The side that reaches 400 first scores game, but the hands are played out and scores and penalties marked as usual. The laws of whist apply to revoke and general rules. Cut for partners and deal as in whist, the last card not to be turned up.
Value of Suits.—Spades, as seen below, are the lowest in value, and “without trumps” the highest.