CHAPTER XIVThe Afghan GreyhoundThrough the kindness of Cary Barnard, Esq., of Hailsham, I am able to give an illustration of this variety of dog so scarce in this country, the specimen depicted being typical of the breed.These Hounds are said to be somewhat difficult to obtain, the owners are unwilling to part with them, being kept by a class who consider it a distinction to own them.In the Natural History Museum at South Kensington there is a stuffed specimen, practically identical with the one herein portrayed.Built on racing lines, in almost every particular, these dogs look exceedingly quaint, chiefly because of the feather, or long hairs, upon the ears, throat, backs of the limbs, feet, and tail.Skullis rather broad, and flat on the top, but there is no "stop."Eyes.—Small, placed close together and well to the front, giving the animal the appearance of having a very penetrating vision.Ears.—Remind one of a short-eared Spaniel, and from over their surface long hairs proceed.Neck.—Long, rather thick, and the body and loins long, yet well coupled.When viewed from the front, these Hounds look very tall, due to the great length of the arms and forearms. These regions, and those of the shoulders, are strongly built.When at rest, tail is carried rather like that of the Irish Water Spaniel, and during excitement, elevated, but not carried over the back. It has an abundance of long hair.First and second thighs long, and feathery to a short distance above the hocks. Hind toes are well clothed with hair. The hocks are strong, low-placed, and pasterns long.Colour.—Fawn, with the feathered portions running to a silvery white.Weight.—About 50 lbs.Height at shoulder.—24 inches, or thereabout.Uses.—During Captain Barnard's residence in Afghanistan, the Hound depicted in our illustration was used for running jackal, and said to be very useful for this purpose.He is an exceptionally fine jumper, having made a clean leap over a fence 9 feet 4 inches in height—a most creditable performance. This Hound has won numerous prizes, including a 2nd, at Crystal Palace.Afghan Greyhound(Property of MrCary Barnard).The LurcherWe shall do little more than mention the existence of this cross-bred variety of dog.The proprietor of a Lurcher has always been regarded as one who will, when the opportunity offers, take his dog "up the back stairs," and gamekeepers generally look upon the owner of a Lurcher as one worthy of a little extra vigilance.Any cross-bred dog, in whom the Greyhound blood predominates, may be designated as a Lurcher, and can be trained as such.Many of these dogs are wonderfully clever on rabbits, and some will kill a hare single-handed, more especially if about three-quarter bred on the Greyhound side, when staying power and swiftness are highly developed.Good at fighting, good at poaching, good at retrieving, and fidelity to master, may justly be claimed as the Lurcher's inheritance.THE TRAINING, USE, AND ABUSE, OF NIGHT-DOGSTo Mr W. Burton, of Thorneywood Kennels, Nottingham (per gamekeeper), I am indebted for the following account."A perfectly trained and reliable night-dogis as useful to the gamekeeper as two or three additional assistants, and, indeed, I have personally heard old poachers remark that they would rather face a dozen men than half that number accompanied by one of these animals, even if resistance would be offered at all where a dog was employed against them. Such being the case, it makes one wonder why night-dogs are not more frequently used by gamekeepers in rough localities, and I am afraid the animals have come into disrepute, owing to the manner in which their employment has been abused by careless watchers."It must not be supposed that a night-dog simply requires rearing, and that when old enough a muzzle has only to be put on and he will face anything he is encouraged to attack. The dog must be trained to his duty as a retriever is taught to bring in game, or he will never prove a satisfactory companion when poachers are about."When a puppy has been procured, he should be accustomed to wear a muzzle from an early age—five months for instance—and strangers should not be allowed to pet and caress him; on the other hand, they may tease him as much as they like, providing that he is not hurt. Of all the muzzles made I prefer those with a solid piece of leather beneath the jaw, and straps round the neck and nose having buckles so that they may be manipulated as required.The Celebrated Keeper's Night-Dog Thorneywood Terror, said to be the most perfectly trained Night Dog ever bred. (Property of MrBurton, Thorneywood Kennels, Nottingham.)"When the dog is ten months old and quite used to wearing its muzzle, he should be taken muzzled to a quiet place where you have previously arranged for a perfect stranger to be. This man should have a bag rolled up and strapped to one hand, and a glove on the other, and should be in hiding at the appointed spot; when the dog and his master get within a hundred yards or so, the stranger should 'break covert' and run out across the field. The dog must at once be released and encouraged to attack the man, his owner running with him the while. Upon the dog's coming up with his quarry it is the duty of the latter to buffet him with the bag, pull his tail and flank, and tease him generally. Do not let this continue too long without a break, as a muzzled dog is soon winded. His master should reach the spot as quickly as possible, encourage the animal a little, and then take him off and loosen his muzzle; after a slight rest he may be permitted another run as before."When the dog begins to display anxiety for the fray, the man may be provided with a thin cane, and instructed to give him a slight stroke or two, but, at this moment, great care should be taken to observe its effect. Some dogs, although gameto a finish, are shy and sensitive, and a stroke with a stick will cause hesitation, not from fear of the blow, but because an impression of doing wrong is conveyed thereby. Should the dog waver at this treatment, relinquish the use of the stick for a time, and then introduce it again by degrees; if bred right he will soon commence to resent it with fury. I have known pups from the same litter to vary greatly in the development of courage, one standing any amount of stick at a year, while others would not face it until six months older."Such an instance I came across a short time ago. A keeper had a youngster from me and eighteen months later reported that it had been no good. I was surprised, and inquired if he had thoroughly tried the creature. 'Yes!' said he, 'I got one of the night-watchers to run across the park, and I then set the dog on him. The dog followed all right, but, when struck with a stick, returned to me, and I shot him.' This man knew I had retained one of the litter, and inquired how the puppy had progressed. I arranged for him to visit me and see the dog work, and he was surprised at what he witnessed. Afterwards I explained that an animal of this description required training, but my friend differed, and asserted that education ought not to be necessary."In no case should a dog be trained and tried on a lead or chain, or the result will be that he will not chase a man. Instead, he will only go for a poacher at close quarters, and then will continue to look round for his owner. Teach the dog to rely on himself. Some gamekeepers use their dogs on a long rope and religiously keep hold of the end thereof, but the reason for this I never could determine, unless it is to retain the animal for their own bodily protection. If so, the dog is not being put to its proper duty."A night-dog is more valuable for catching a man than for fighting one; still, he must be taught to give battle, because it is love of the scrimmage following which causes him to give chase. A dog is certainly useful when a rough fight takes place, but he is doubly so when active poachers have a long start of their pursuers, for, if he jumps at a man, he is bound to bring his victim to the ground. Besides, if a dog refuses to chase a man, he is of no good in the case of a gang which freely stones the keepers, as then a resolute animal is a welcome assistant. The chances against the dog being hit with a stone as he makes for his assailants are ten to one, and, once he is at close quarters, stones cannot be thrown at him for fear of comrades being struck, and while the animal is busy among the party the members of it will haveplenty to do to stave off his attacks, and he will allow them little leisure for pelting the keepers who must now hasten to the fight."To hark back. Suppose the dog goes for the man when released and shows no fear of the stick, he must then be taught to keep up the attack and not have a jump or two and then return from the fray, allowing his foe an opportunity of escaping. As a means of accomplishing this, the dog's owner should be as close to the animal as possible and encourage him to maintain the assault. When it is plainly to be seen that he is scant of breath, at once take him off, because, if permitted to become tired, the probability is that the dog will stand still, and, as the man promptly does the same, will return to his master, perhaps, regarding the affray as over. Once he acquires the much-to-be-regretted habit of doing this, it will need some patience to correct it. It is a golden rule never to unduly exhaust a youngster, and then, when age has been acquired, he will be game all day or night."Having progressed thus far, the dog should next be taught to find a man hidden in a ditch or up a tree. Candidly, this is a somewhat difficult undertaking, and it is not every night-dog which becomes clever in this particular. Instruct the man to secrete himself in a ditch at the opposite side of the field; be careful to give the dog the wind, and innine cases out of ten it will be noticed that he gazes as if looking for someone. Now move towards the hidden person and encourage the animal onward. As both near the ditch the dog will strongly detect the scent of his quarry, and at this point the hidden man should make a slight movement for the purpose of attracting the animal's attention. This action should be repeated until discovery takes place, and, if the dog can thus be taught to use his nose, he quickly becomes an adept at finding concealed poachers."When this is asserted, it is not meant that a man may be despatched with a few minutes' grace, and if the dog is put upon the trail the man will be followed; some bull-mastiffs may become clever enough to foot a man, but recent trials have proved that even bloodhounds have to possess the best of blood and training before they will unerringly hunt a man under these conditions."Another important thing a night-dog should be taught is to at once leave a man he has thrown down and start after another of the gang when the keepers have arrived on the scene and laid hands on the first man. Suppose a party of watchers drop across half-a-dozen poachers, who all promptly take to their heels on seeing that the opposing side are a match for them; the chances are the poachers get a good start, and are nearly certain to escape, if thedog is not competent to play his part. If he is capable, promptly slipped, and closely followed, he will soon bring one to book; he should then be taken off and encouraged to serve another likewise, and so on, until all have been arrested."To train the dog to do this, two men should start at one time, both being armed with sticks. Instruct the two to keep together, and when they are well on the run slip the dog and follow him as before directed. When the animal gets close the men must separate, and he will confine his attentions to one; immediately the man he first attacks is down, despatch the dog after the second, who should be making good pace away, while his companion stands perfectly still. At first, the dog will plainly manifest that he prefers to stay and worry the one he has succeeded in defeating rather than seek for fresh glories, but persevere with him until he does renew the chase without the least hesitation. You will succeed better in this if the second man is not allowed to get too far away, and it will be advisable for him to wave his stick and otherwise try to attract attention and invite attack. When the dog recognises what is required of him, increase the distance between first and second man, or let each run in an opposite direction. It is very necessary that a dog should be taught to respect friends, that is, to attack only those at whom he is set, and then at noother time but when he is encouraged to do so. If he fails to learn this, he is as likely as not to go at one of the watchers who happens to move or otherwise attract notice."When a dog has been sufficiently tried to prove that he is in every way game, it is advisable to allow the man upon whom he has been exercising his powers to sit near and endeavour to make friends with his four-legged opponent. All dogs will not consent to do the agreeable to this extent, but the majority will generally settle down and be quiet when they clearly understand that such behaviour is expected. It is very necessary that a dog should learn to recognise when the battle is over, and that having duly fulfilled his part he must be quiet, for it would be awkward, to say the least, if a keeper has to struggle with the animal to take him off a captured poacher, and then the rascal takes advantage of the exhaustion of both keeper and dog to escape."A night-dog should not under any circumstances be tried on a person who may at some future time have to accompany the animal while out watching. If so, the dog is nearly certain to go for this person when released for a scrimmage with poachers. Several instances like this have occurred, and in certain of them the dog had not been tried on the watcher he attacked since a puppy. This proves that they do not easily forget the identity of an opponent."There is one other thing a dog should learn, and, having acquired cleverness at it in addition to the lessons mentioned previously, the animal may be regarded as a perfect night-dog. When lying out with a party of watchers he must not be allowed to get into the habit of curling himself up and going to sleep like a fat pig. He must be taught to listen for the coming of poachers, as it is only natural that he should detect their approach by both sound and smell long before their advent on the scene is palpable to human senses. Some dogs do this naturally, and the remainder only need encouragement to render them proficient watchers. If a young dog displays a tendency to fall asleep when out, arrange for a man to come on the scene just about the time the animal will be settled down. This individual should move as cautiously as he can, go straight to the dog, and have a good rough round or two with him. Repeat the dose at intervals, and the dog will soon take to watching attentively, expecting every sound to announce the appearance of an antagonist."Never permit a night-dog to chase game or rabbits; if he is allowed to do this the movements made by them at night will monopolise his attention, and the watchers will never be sure whether he is pricking up his ears at a rabbit rustling in the dead leaves or at the approach of poachers; when released for a chase or scrimmage he will belikely to direct his attention towards the less noble game."Opinions vary as to the weight a night-dog should attain, but a small dog, however persevering he may be, cannot be so effective as one which has the qualities of being large, game, and active. Suppose a dog, of 50 or 60 lbs. weight only, were to jump at a man, the latter could not be knocked down. A clever poacher would wait his opportunity, catch the animal in his arms, and throw him over an adjacent wall or fence, well aware that the dog could not jump back. A night-dog should not be less than 80 lbs., and if he is 100 lbs., strong and active, so much the better. He ought to be able to jump a gate with ease and to get over ground at a good pace. For colour a brindle is to be preferred, not being so plainly visible at night as a red, fawn, or even black dog."When a perfect dog has been bought or trained, every care should be taken that the animal is used properly. He should only be slipped at a man when absolutely necessary, and then must be securely muzzled. If a scrimmage becomes desperate and develops into a fight for life, the watchers must use their own discretion as to allowing their dog freedom to bite; if his muzzle be taken off, the man he attacks will surely be marked in such a way that he will be easily identified. To slip a night-dog at lads trespassing after mushrooms, blackberries, etc., is theheight of wanton folly, as the lads may be injured or terrified to a serious degree. Remember, it is best not to loose the dog at all if a man can be captured without his help, and he should be muzzled except in extreme cases. If a poacher who has had his clothes torn and been bitten simply because he ran away is brought before magistrates, he may excite the pity of the latter, although he heartily deserves condemnation from his judges; besides, a civil action for damages may ensue."It is entirely through forgetfulness of these rules that so many gentlemen object to night-dogs being used on their estates. But, if an animal of this kind is regarded in its proper light, and its use not abused, its mere presence will do more to deter poaching than the employment of half-a-dozen extra hands."CHAPTER XVTHE GAMEKEEPERS' KENNEL ASSOCIATIONConcerning the AssociationThe Gamekeepers' Kennel Association has been formed with the primary object of taking over the organisation of the Gamekeepers' Dog Show as first held at the Westminster Aquarium, on 31st July and 1st and 2nd August 1900, it being deemed advisable by all parties concerned that the show should cease to be proprietary or to be promoted by any firm having trading interests with Gamekeepers. The other aims which the Association has in view are fully described in the following pages, and the Executive will do everything in their power to uphold and protect the rights of Game-preservers, recognising that in this lie the best interests of the Association and its members. The rule regarding the exclusion of undesirable persons from membership will be strictly enforced, and the Executive hope, that in time, the fact that a Gamekeeper is a member of the Association will be looked upon as a proof of ability and good character.Donations and Subscriptions in aid of the Funds of the Association will be gladly received and acknowledged by the Secretary. Cheques and Post-office Orders should be made payable to the Gamekeepers' Kennel Association and crossed "Barclay & Co." Secretary's address is:—MrF. W. Millard,Hertford, Herts.Rules1. That the name of the Association be "The Gamekeepers' Kennel Association."2. That the object of the Association shall be to hold an Annual Show for the exhibition and sale of trained dogs owned by Gamekeepers, to uphold by all lawful means the rights of Game-preservers, to maintain at the Offices of the Association a register of Gamekeepers out of place, of situations vacant, and of dogs for sale, and also to promote the interests of game-preserving and Gamekeepers generally in the United Kingdom.3. That the funds of the Association be spent in the furtherance of these and other objects considered by the Committee to be necessary for the welfare of Gamekeepers generally.4. That a President, Vice-President, and Treasurer be elected annually.5. That the present Committee remain in office two years.6. That after the lapse of two years from the formation of the Association one-third of the Committee shall retire annually by rotation.7. That the said rotation be decided according to alphabetical order.8. That all members of the Committee retiring shall be eligible for re-election.9. That all members of the Committee re-elected on retirement, and members elected in the place of those who resign, remain on the Committee for three years.10. That the Committee have power to add to their number.11. That the Secretary of the Association be subject to one month's notice.12. That onlybonâ fideGamekeepers be eligible for membership.13. That the definition "Gamekeeper" be understood to include, for the purposes of membership, anyone wholly engaged in the preservation of game, deer, or fish.14. That a Gamekeeper who has been a member of the Association five years or more shall, on retiring from his duties as Gamekeeper through old age or other physical incapacity, still be eligible for membership.15. That retired gamekeepers who wish to at once become members of the Association, be eligible for election at the option of the Committee.16. That the annual subscription to be paid by members be fixed at 5s. per annum for head-keepers and single-handed-keepers, and 2s. 6d. per annum for under-keepers.17. That these subscriptions be considered due on the 1st of January each year, and must be paid before the 31st of that month.18. That members wishing to join the Association at any time other than the month of January must pay the full subscription for the current year.19. That all under-men wishing to join the Association must be recommended by a head-keeper under whom they have served.20. That no head-keeper, after 31st December 1904, shall be accepted as a member, without a recommendation from his employer, or another head-keeper who has already been enrolled.21. That the Committee reserve the right to refuse any application for membership, and also to expel any member for any wilful misconduct which they decide is detrimental to the objects of the Association.22. All members who have benefited by the Register, and not continued to belong to the Association, must, if re-elected to membership, payany subscriptions in arrear, together with a fine of five shillings.23. That no one except a member of the Association be allowed to exhibit at any show promoted by the Association.24. That no member be allowed to show a dog at any show unless he has been enrolled a member since before 1st February of the same year.25. All cheques to be signed by both Treasurer and Secretary.26. That all persons assisting in the management of the Association who are known to have trading interests with the members thereof, be understood to hold office in their private capacity only.27. That the Gamekeepers' Kennel Association recognise the authority of the Kennel Club, and agree to obey the Rules and Regulations laid down by the Kennel Club.28. All new rules shall be framed and adopted in Committee.Rules for the Conduct of Meetings1. That the dates and places of all meetings be fixed by the Secretary, and approved by at least three members of the Committee.2. That each member of the Committee shall receive notice of all meetings at least seven days previous to the date of such meetings.3. Want of service of notice of meeting on any member of the Committee shall not affect the validity of such meeting.4. That five members of the Committee be considered a quorum.5. That votes be taken by show of hands.6. That all questions be decided by majority.7. That the President or Chairman of any meeting for the time being shall have a second or casting vote.8. That minutes of the proceedings of every meeting be fairly entered into a book kept for that purpose.9. That notices of motions to be moved at any meeting by any member of the Committee be sent in to the Secretary on receipt of notice convening such meetings.10. That the Committee from time to time make such rules as they consider necessary for the Regulation of the proceedings at their meetings.Legal BureauEvery member has a right to legal advice from the Honorary Solicitor of the Association regarding any matter connected with his duties. All applications for such advice must be made through the Secretary, and letters addressed direct to Mr Everitt will not receive attention. This regulation is necessary toprevent outsiders seeking benefits reserved exclusively for members. Mr Everitt is prepared to take legal action on behalf of members and their employers at recognised fees, and his great knowledge of the intricacies of the Game Laws should ensure his engagement in all difficult cases with reference to a breach of these laws.Veterinary BureauEvery member of the Association has the privilege of obtaining free veterinary advice on all matters pertaining to his kennels, diseases of game, etc. Applications must be sent through the Secretary of the Association, a description of the symptoms, duration of the disease, number of animals affected, and any other information likely to be of service to the expert when forming an opinion.The Situation RegisterThe Executive of the Association will make every effort to assist those of its members requiring situations, and, for that purpose, advertisements will in due season be inserted in certain papers asking gentlemen requiring Gamekeepers to write to the Secretary and state their wants. A register of members out of place will be maintained at the offices of the Association, and it is hoped that head-keepersrequiring under-men will in all cases apply to the Secretary before seeking elsewhere.Directions to be followed by Members desirous of obtaining a Situation through the AssociationA member out of place wishing to be entered on the Register of the Association must apply to the Secretary for a form to fill up and return.Each member in corresponding with the Secretary must give his number, which number will be found on his card of membership.Should a member on the register obtain a situation by other means, he must at once acquaint the Secretary that he has been engaged.Should a member be taken into the employment of a gentleman or head-keeper, with whom he has been placed in communication by the Secretary, he must at once inform the Secretary, that his name may be removed from the register.RemarksThe Secretary will place members requiring situations in communication with applicants for Gamekeepers as fast as inquiries fall in, but in each case the two parties must arrange their own terms. The Executive will do their best to find suitable men for the places offered, but they give no recommendation. It is earnestly requested that members making achange will at once send their new address to the Secretary.The Register of Dogs for SaleThe Association maintains at its offices a register of sporting dogs, belonging to its members, which are for sale, and from time to time advertisements will be placed in certain papers that dogs are on the register for disposal. It will be the earnest endeavour of the Executive to induce sportsmen, in want of well-trained dogs, to apply to the Secretary, and it is hoped that head-keepers requiring dogs will purchase through the Association.Directions for Placing a Dog upon the Register of the AssociationA member of the Association having a dog for sale must write to the Secretary for a form on which the animal and its capabilities may be described. When the Secretary receives this form back the dog will be entered upon the Register of the Association.Each member in corresponding with the Secretary must give his number, which number will be found on his card of membership.Should a dog upon the Register of the Association be disposed of privately by its owner, he must immediately inform the Secretary, that it may be removed from the Register. Breaches of this orderwill be dealt with by the Committee, because endless confusion and delay will ensue if it is not followed out.Beyond placing seller and purchaser in communication with each other, the Association can accept no responsibility.Rules to be observed by both Parties when a Dog goes on Trial1. When an intending purchaser stipulates for a trial, a dog must be in his hands four clear days, the days of despatch and return not being counted.2. The intending purchaser must be deemed responsible for the dog's safety during the period allowed for trial.3. The carriage of a dog on the outward journey must be paid by the person to whom it goes on trial.4. If a dog is returned after a trial as unsuitable, its owner must pay carriage on the homeward journey.5. On a sale being concluded, the late owner of the dog sold must immediately inform the Secretary.6. If a dog after trial is returned as unsuitable, its owner must at once inform the Secretary. Until he has done this, no further measures for its sale will be taken.NoticeGentlemen will much simplify the work of the Secretary if, when requiring a dog, they explicitly state their wants, and mention the price they are prepared to give.RemarksThe Executive hope that both parties to a transaction will implicitly observe the foregoing rules and directions. When filling up the forms, an exact description of a dog and its capabilities should be given; if misrepresentation is attempted, irretrievable harm will be done to the Association and its objects. Once sportsmen are assured that the Association is a reliable source from which well-trained dogs may be obtained, they will not fail to resort to it. By observing the utmost care when filling in a form, members will be protecting their own interests, aiding the Executive, and enhancing the honour of the Association.Stud DogsThat Gamekeepers may be encouraged to breed true to the recognised types, the Secretary of the Association will be glad to correspond with owners of prize stud dogs with a view of securing a reduction of fees in favour of members of the Association. All members will be duly advised throughThe Gamekeeperof such reductions when they are allowed, and the Executive hope that the efforts they are making in this direction will be to the advantage of both members and owners of stud dogs. Members of the Association, who have valuable dogs, are particularly requested to place them at the service of other members for stud purposes.NoticeThe Secretary will be pleased to forward particulars to members who are desirous of making the Association known amongst their Gamekeeper friends. It is hoped that each member will do his best to add to the roll of the Association by inducing others to join. Forms of application for intending members may be obtained of the Secretary, who will be glad to answer all inquiries.A monthly report concerning the work and position of the Association will be found in each issue of its organ,The Gamekeeper.A list of stud dogs, placed at the service of members at reduced fees, is also occasionally published inThe Gamekeeper, copies of this paper being obtainable from theEditor, Hertford, Herts.Recently efforts have been made towards instituting a fund for the benefit of keepers during later life.CHAPTER XVIFeeding Sporting DogsAmongst Masters of Hounds and breeders of other Sporting Dogs, it is a general custom to feed the animals but once a day, and in most instances this is economical and satisfactory.To maintain an even condition of the whole pack is one of the best tests as to the huntsman's management of the pack, and the kennelman's skill in feeding them.Like all other varieties of dogs, Hounds differ in their likes and dislikes to food, so that whilst certain members of the pack are thriving on the food set before them, others are losing flesh, otherwise not improving in condition. Another reason why one or more of the Hounds may not be "doing well" is often due to the weaker members being "snapped at" by their stronger and peevish brethren when at the feeding vessels. Observation will soon settle whether this be the cause of particular hounds not thriving.Shy feeders should either be allowed to have the first cut at the food, or else fed by themselves, saytwo couples at one time. Horse-flesh and good oatmeal—or some form of Hound meal—constitutes the best staple food for Hounds. During the hot weather the flesh requires to be boiled twice or thrice weekly. As a substitute, skimmed milk can be used.Nothing but sound horse-flesh ought to be used. Cattle, sheep, or pigs, that have died suddenly—unless certain that cause of death is of a harmless nature—should be avoided.There is a risk of the animals contracting anthrax, deaths from this malady amongst dogs by no means being unknown.Tuberculous cattle are equally objectionable as food for dogs.In every instance the author recommends boiling the flesh, so that no redness, or uncooked portions remain.The Hounds should be fed at least a couple of hours before starting off. Nothing can be worse than to run dogs with a full stomach.Precisely the same remark applies to all other Sporting Dogs, but to the working Hound in particular.The advantages of placing puppies "out at walk" is, as in the past, largely carried out, and the system leaves little to be desired. Most puppy walkers do justice to their charges, but huntsmen and others will do well to see that thin puppies are kept infat conndition,and notlow. The erroneous opinion, though so general, that a puppy ought to be kept down in condition when distemper is approaching, is the greatest fallacy under the sun, and one that ought to have exploded long ago.My advice to "walkers" and to owners is to feed your puppies well and get them fat, because distemper will soon plough out their ribs, etc., if unfortunate enough—as most of the good ones are—to contract it.A little black treacle (teaspoonful), mixed with meal, rice, etc., and given once a week, is beneficial. If too much be used, it makes the bowels loose, especially after the dogs get warm with work, etc.A change of food is of course desirable. Pointers, Setters, Retrievers, Beagles, Terriers, etc., etc., may have dry dog-biscuits—or soaked if preferred—given to them in a morning, and soaked stale bread—with water squeezed out—mixed with cut-up meat for the evening meal.Boiled (or raw) paunches make a splendid food for dogs, and have great nutritive value. Boiled rice, flour, and various other meals are suitable, only must have a proportionable amount of flesh added to them.Many sportsmen believe that flesh destroys a gundog's scenting power, and others that it makes thin dogs hard-mouthed. The author cannot sharethis belief. For the satisfactory performance of work, a dog must be allowed flesh, and shortness of this—a dog's natural diet—is one of the chief causes of so many dogs breaking out in skin eruptions.In addition to good food, regularly given in suitable quantities, it is necessary to see that the dogs have a plentiful supply of pure water, but it is not a good plan to give water immediately after feeding.Another matter, in connection with feeding, that gamekeepers, etc., will do well to bear in mind, is to avoid feeding a dog on the entrails, etc., of rabbits and hares—a fruitful source of worms.Conditioning DogsFirst of all, let us ask the apparently simple question, what is meant by "Condition?"Our answer is: "The highest standard of excellence for a given purpose."To the uninitiated, it may seem a very simple matter—only a question of plenty of food—to get a dog into condition—or, we ought to say, with a good layer of flesh upon his ribs.But the huntsman, sportsman, and exhibitor know different to this.It is not merely a question of food, but one of well-carried-out training—at anyrate in the eyes of the two first-named.Foxhounds, Harriers, Greyhounds, Beagles, Otterhounds, Whippets, etc., must be "well winded," and this can only be obtained by daily exercise, first on foot, and then on horseback, gradually increasing the distance and pace.The late Mr Apperley ("Nimrod") said: "That the highest virtue in a Foxhound is his being true to the line his game has gone, anda stout runner at the end of the chase." In the words printed in italics is embodied the term "Condition," as understood by the huntsman and hound-master.Accepting the statement as correct, it is not necessary to say the amount of flesh a dog should carry.With the exhibitor, matters are rather different,showcondition being his desideratum.If a sporting dog is going to a show, feed night and morning on meat and bread, so that by the time fixed for the show the ribs will have a good layer of flesh over them, being felt in outline only when the fingers are passed across them.When a dog is very thin, give him a tablespoonful of malt or cod-liver oil and malt, night and morning.Raw flesh will help matters greatly.Before starting to lay on flesh by extra feeding, oil, etc., it is generally advisable to satisfy oneself that the dog is practically free from worms, otherwisethe extra nourishment will be wasted. Try for tape-worm with a dose of areca nut, and for round-worms, three days afterwards, with 10 grains of santonin, mixed with a dessertspoonful of treacle and one tablespoonful of castor oil.The use of a hound-glove, chamois leather, and brush and comb, with an occasional bath, will do the rest.It is better to wash your dog several days before the show, because the water destroys the natural lubricant, or that making the hair glossy.Curly-coated Retrievers are improved in tightness of curl by the use of cold water.CHAPTER XVIISpecific AilmentsDistemper—Rabies—Blood-Poisoning—Rheumatism or Kennel LamenessUnder the title of "Specific" Ailments, the author deems it advisable to give a brief account of such diseases as distemper, blood-poisoning, rabies or madness, rheumatism, kennel lameness, or chest founder, these complaints having as their cause germs, or micro-organisms; the production of these ailments—in three of them at least—being due to the entrance of minute organisms into the system, the excretions, or poisonous products resulting in the several forms of disease, as named above.By far the commonest of these specific canine ailments is—DISTEMPERThis malady is only too well known amongst owners and breeders of sporting dogs, and to its almost constant presence in certain kennels the rearing of puppies is seriously handicapped. It is readily communicable from one dog to another—moreparticularly the young—either by direct or indirect means.Some kennels are singularly exempt from its presence, whereas others are hardly ever without it.In the latter case, the disease obviously exists upon the premises, measures for its extinction having been inadequately carried out.One would hardly credit the multifarious channels through which this canine scourge can be propagated.Feeding utensils, benches, the hands and clothing of attendants, hampers, collars and chains, bedding, water vessels, by contact of the diseased and healthy, and possibly by wind carrying the dessicated discharges, are all liable to become active agents for the production of the malady.So varied is distemper in its method of attack, that the most expert professional may ignore its existence. Previous to the development of the symptoms, there is the so-called period of incubation,i.e., the time during which the germs are, as it were, dormant, though in reality they are maturing, the advent of their maturation being the development of the specific lesions designated distemper. By far the commonest manifestation of this horrible canine scourge is that in connection with the mucous membranes lining the eyelids, and upper air passages.Possibly these are the chief portals for the entrance of the germs, and if the specific poison would only confine its ravages to these regions, the ultimate results would be of a much less serious nature.No amount of good government will confine the assaults of the germs to positions so readily accessible to amelioration by medicinal applications, bronchial and pneumonic complications being common results, or what is, equally severe, bowels and brain lesions supervene, proving an additional source of depleting an already weakened economy. Masters of Foxhounds and proprietors of other dogs, are, we fear, only too well acquainted with the truth of this statement. The usual period of incubation is from four to fourteen days, and this should be borne in mind, so that any puppies that have been in contact with the disease may be isolated, and their temperatures taken for the next two or three weeks night and morning. The normal temperature is 101° Fahr. or a trifle over; therefore, if the mercury rises above 102° Fahr. in the morning—more particularly so—this is sufficient to warrant the animal's separation from the rest of the puppies.It has been stated that distemper may exist without any rise of temperature, or even the presence of catarrhal signs, but the author doesnot attach the slightest importance to such statements, and claims an experience equal to that of any other veterinary expert.If there is no rise of temperature, no prostration, and no catarrhal signs, one may at once conclude that the animal is not affected with distemper.Dulness, loss of appetite, sneezing, redness, heaviness of the eyes, slight husky cough, and, it may be, vomiting, are the premonitory signs of distemper.If temperature be taken in the rectum or vagina, it will probably be about 103° or 104° Fahr.—the best positive evidence. There will generally be either constipation—more especially if a young dog—or an opposite condition of the evacuations. One well-known M.R.C.V.S. believes that distemper in adult dogs is of very rare occurrence.This is not the author's experience, he having encountered and treated numerous cases when the animals have haddistinctattacks of distemper two, and three times. Like scarlatina, measles, small-pox, etc., in the human subject, once the patient has passed through a well-marked attack of the disease, it is to a great extent "protected," but certainly not immune, to succeeding ones.There is indisputable evidence in support of this statement, even the oldest observers being aware of its truth.Following upon the preliminary symptoms alreadyindicated, there is a profuse discharge from the nasal and ocular openings, at first watery in character, subsequently creamy.The discharge (unless cleaned off) irritates the margin of the eyes, occluding these and the nasal openings.Sometimes the malady remains in this—the so-called simple or catarrhal form—for several days, and then convalescence begins.In the case of coarse-bred dogs (mongrels, etc.) the foregoing is the usual condition of affairs. Bronchial and lung troubles are frequent, and probably more puppies die from the broncho-pneumonia of distemper than from other causes. Bronchitis is indicated by frequent attempts at expectoration, and the so-called "rale," heard within the chest. This sound is due to the air passing through the inflammatory exudate in the tubes. If pleurisy is present, there will, during the earlier stages, be friction or dry rubbing sounds, heard when the ear is placed against the chest wall. It is generally associated with varying degrees of pneumonia, either single or double. Quick breathing—more especially noticeable in the region of the flanks—is the best guide as to its presence for the amateur physician. Dropsy of the chest is not at all an uncommon result of pleuritic inflammation.When consolidation of the lungs has takenplace, their respiratory usefulness becomes materially interfered with, so that, frequently, the animal has to make use of his lips as an auxiliary, the cheeks being inflated in a spasmodic manner. Recovery in this advanced condition of disease is exceedingly rare, though we have known it occur.Pericardial (heart sac) inflammation is not uncommon in distemper, resulting through extension of inflammation from the pleural membranes.A disordered liver is indicated by yellowness of the skin and mucous membranes, this bilious or hepatic form of the complaint being fairly common.A fetid breath and pustular eruption over the belly, and on the skin inside the thighs are commonly observed; in fact, the pustular eruption is the most significant sign one can find.Its presence is at once demonstrative that the animal is affected with what is known to the professional as a specific eruptive fever, which will run a definite course, and no amount of medicinal agents can cut it short.One may control it by good nursing, suitable surroundings, and the judicious use of medicinal agents, but for any man to say that it is within his power to stay its normal progress, would, we opine, be bordering on madness. So much for distemper cures and their curers.Ordinary small-pox vaccine has been employedas a preventative for distemper. Almost everyone knows that when the arm of the human subject is scarified with the lancet, so as to admit the reception of the vaccine into the system, the part becomes inflamed and swollen, the seat of vaccination also showing a vesicle, etc., typical of a mild form of the disease, and if this does not take place the vaccine is said not to have "taken,"i.e., it has done no good.This is exactly what happens when used in the same way upon the dog, there being neither inflammation nor yet other signs, typical of local reaction, therefore it can be no use.The mere fact of the disease never having occurred in a certain dog that has been vaccinated is not the least evidence in support of its utility.Many dogs are very refractory to certain diseases, amongst these being distemper.The Commission of Veterinary Surgeons, appointed to inquire into the utility of Dr Physalix's Vaccine, has convinced the writer that it was a failure from beginning to end, and he advises all dog admirers, Masters of Hounds, etc., to steer clear of its use.There is no doubt that in course of time an anti-toxin, or some other attenuated form of distemper virus will be produced for the cure, or prevention of, this deadly canine malady.Regarding the treatment of distemper, it has been suggested that a dose of castor oil may, with advantage, be given at the outset.The author does not consider this advisable: the oil, owing to its extremely nauseating properties, tends to further weaken the animal by the production of vomition, etc. Moreover, castor oil leaves the bowels in a drier condition than before—an undesirable effect.A soft—not dysenteric—condition of the evacuations is advantageous, much of the poison being got rid by the alimentary canal in this way.A moist condition of the bowels is best maintained by the daily use of some of the natural aperient waters, such as Apenta, Hunyadi-Janos, etc., given in small doses once a day; say, every morning, taking particular care not to go too far.The superiority of these saline aperients to those of oleaginous and other resinous purgatives, is further evidenced by the fact that they also act as febrifuges, lowering the excessive heat, thus diminishing the rapid loss of flesh, so characteristic of this affection.For the husky cough give from one teaspoonful to a tablespoonful of ipecacuanha wine, just as it is. This should induce vomiting, and ought not to be repeated, at least for several days.As a rule, very satisfactory results follow its use.Inhalations of turpentine, eucalyptus, and spirit of camphor, or a little menthol, are exceedingly beneficial.Four teaspoonfuls of each of the three first-named may be mixed together, and then one teaspoonful added to half a pint of boiling water, the dog being made to inhale the steam.Five to ten drops of oil of eucalyptus, mixed with a little fine sugar, and placed inside the mouth night and morning, is good for the catarrhal symptoms of distemper, and the author can, from experience, recommend its employment.When chest complications are marked, the application of mustard paste to the sides will do good.Put the fore and hind limbs through holes cut in a thick piece of woollen blanket, and fasten it over the back. This will keep the chest warm and prevent the mustard from being rubbed off, more especially if a bit of brown paper be interposed.Stimulants are indispensable in distemper, so that bovril, claret, and brandy are required. Brand's Essence is the best for nourishment. Give it in teaspoonful doses every hour. One may add the same quantity of brandy or whisky to it.Bovril is a good stimulant in distemper, but it will certainly make the dog vomit, unless given in very small quantities, so long as the stomachis in an irritable condition, one or two tablespoonfuls each time being quite sufficient.As restoratives, claret and Coca Wine are excellent.When dysenteric symptoms are troublesome, give an injection into the rectum night and morning. Use two to six tablespoonfuls of tepid boiled starch, to which ½ drachm of laudanum, 10 drops of turpentine and 1 drachm of tincture of hamamaledin has been added, injecting the lot, and then keeping the dog very still until the discomfiture of the injection has subsided.In addition to this, from 5 to 15 grains of grey powder may be given, and repeated in the doses first named, daily. If no improvement, give 10 grains of powdered ipecacuanha every 10 hours.To relieve the congested condition of the liver, the use of hot linseed and mustard poultices over the organ will be of service, followed by 10 to 20 grains of sal ammoniac, along with 5 grains of hyposulphite of soda, given in a tablespoonful of water night and morning.Most reliance must be placed upon careful nursing, and if this is properly carried out better may be the issue, though, as already stated, no amount of careful nursing, or use of medicinal agents, will stop the ravages of distemper.Fits are frequent, and another very common result is chorea, or St Vitus' dance, also called the twitch, jumps, etc. For fits, give 20 grains of bromide of potash, and if this does no good, double the dose, and for chorea try a course of Easton's Syrup—in capsules—malt, cod-liver oil, etc. Paralysis is not an uncommon sequel.Dialysed iron—10-drop doses in a tablespoonful of water—is a very satisfactory drug to use so as to restore the weakened constitution, and bring back the appetite after distemper.RABIESAlthough not present in our own country, it is very prevalent in certain provinces in India, etc.The muzzling order and quarantine has been the means of abolishing this deadly malady from England.In ninety-nine per cent. of cases in India, the disease is directly due to animals left to stray from the bazaars and villages.At one time rabies was very prevalent in England, therefore cases of hydrophobia were not infrequent. Moreover other animals (horses, sheep, cattle, deer, etc.) had the malady through having been bitten by a rabid dog.This disease assumes two distinct forms, oneknown as the "furious" and the other "dumb" rabies. One of the earliest indications of rabies is an alteration of the dog's manner. He becomes restless, quarrelsome, and shy, having a strong inclination to wander from home.At first the animal is able to drink, but very shortly he is unable, though evidently willing to do so. A depraved appetite is a singularly constant feature of rabies, gnawing at wood and snapping at imaginary (also real) objects.A rabid dog has no particular inclination to seek objects for revenge; the injuries he inflicts beings agents that he regards as intercepting his onward march.The author had, some years since, considerable experience amongst cases of rabies, and often innocent owners would bring rabid dogs for treatment!!A very characteristic—though we cannot say pathognomonic—sign of rabies, is an alteration in the bark, and this is changed to a semi-bark and howl, easily recognised when heard a second time.A rabid dog generally knows his master until overcome by the fury of the disease.Most dogs succumb within a week after the advent of the first signs of the complaint. From a week to three months may be set down as the minimum and maximum periods for the development (incubation) of rabies, after the doghas been bitten by a rabid animal, or received the virus of the malady into its system, such as might occur through rubbing, licking, etc., upon a mucous surface.There are many other minor signs of rabies, and in the so-called "dumb" form, the most diagnostic one is dropping of the lower jaw, accompanied by a snuffling sound.Although this latter might be confused with paralysis of the lower jaw from injury to the nerve, etc., the history of the case will afford the most reliable guide, when forming an opinion.If rabies is suspected, isolation and destruction should be carried out at once. The speedier the better.Before concluding, the writer wishes to say that the bite of a dog in ordinary health is no more injurious than a wound inflicted by any other means, and that the sooner this stupid fallacy explodes the better for beast and man.To destroy a healthy dog because it happens to have bitten a person is akin to madness.BLOOD-POISONINGThis is almost always due to absorption of septic matter, usually from the seat of a wound or other injury. We have frequently seen it follow a bite from another dog. It is generally fatal. Theskin assumes a bluish tint, and beneath it inflammatory products accumulate, giving, when pressed with the fingers, a crackling sensation.In other instances, abscesses form both internally and externally, sometimes the whole of a limb being infiltrated with pus, etc.Very little can be done.To support the severe depression, give brandy, eggs, and Brand's Essence of Beef. Also 25 grains of salicylate of soda every six hours in a little cold water.RHEUMATISM OR KENNEL LAMENESSMasters of Hounds and Sporting-dog men in particular, are nearly all acquainted with this troublesome complaint.Where dogs are kenneled on damp or low-lying ground, there may we expect to find kennel lameness—a title under which it has been known for many and many a score of years.A previous attack is a predisposing influence to its recurrence.Rheumatism may be either acute or chronic.Although not common in its acute form, the writer has treated dogs that could hardly bear anyone to enter—much less shake—the rooms where they have been kept, the slightest shake causing the dog to howl from the agony of pain so induced.Under these circumstances, the diagnosis of rheumatism becomes a certainty, much more so than in its chronic condition, when confined to a limb, joint, etc.The muscles of the chest—Chest-founder—and the neck, are commonly affected.Stiffness and difficulty in moving—the dog often suddenly howling from pain—are the chief signs. There is not much (if any) swelling in this complaint, as it occurs in the dog.The shifting character of rheumatism is a great aid to diagnosis.Treatment.—Keep dog in a dry and warm kennel.Don't wash, especially in winter.Give soda water to drink.For the chronic manifestation of the affection, administer 5 grains of iodide of potash night and morning.Open bowels with a purgative.If acute, 20 grains of salicylate of soda every eight hours in a tablespoonful of water.Rub the muscles with some stimulating liniment, such as white oil, belladonna, or aconite liniments.Feed on soft food and nurse dog well.Many cases of rheumatism never get any better, the dog remaining a confirmed cripple, though worse in damp weather.
CHAPTER XIVThe Afghan GreyhoundThrough the kindness of Cary Barnard, Esq., of Hailsham, I am able to give an illustration of this variety of dog so scarce in this country, the specimen depicted being typical of the breed.These Hounds are said to be somewhat difficult to obtain, the owners are unwilling to part with them, being kept by a class who consider it a distinction to own them.In the Natural History Museum at South Kensington there is a stuffed specimen, practically identical with the one herein portrayed.Built on racing lines, in almost every particular, these dogs look exceedingly quaint, chiefly because of the feather, or long hairs, upon the ears, throat, backs of the limbs, feet, and tail.Skullis rather broad, and flat on the top, but there is no "stop."Eyes.—Small, placed close together and well to the front, giving the animal the appearance of having a very penetrating vision.Ears.—Remind one of a short-eared Spaniel, and from over their surface long hairs proceed.Neck.—Long, rather thick, and the body and loins long, yet well coupled.When viewed from the front, these Hounds look very tall, due to the great length of the arms and forearms. These regions, and those of the shoulders, are strongly built.When at rest, tail is carried rather like that of the Irish Water Spaniel, and during excitement, elevated, but not carried over the back. It has an abundance of long hair.First and second thighs long, and feathery to a short distance above the hocks. Hind toes are well clothed with hair. The hocks are strong, low-placed, and pasterns long.Colour.—Fawn, with the feathered portions running to a silvery white.Weight.—About 50 lbs.Height at shoulder.—24 inches, or thereabout.Uses.—During Captain Barnard's residence in Afghanistan, the Hound depicted in our illustration was used for running jackal, and said to be very useful for this purpose.He is an exceptionally fine jumper, having made a clean leap over a fence 9 feet 4 inches in height—a most creditable performance. This Hound has won numerous prizes, including a 2nd, at Crystal Palace.Afghan Greyhound(Property of MrCary Barnard).The LurcherWe shall do little more than mention the existence of this cross-bred variety of dog.The proprietor of a Lurcher has always been regarded as one who will, when the opportunity offers, take his dog "up the back stairs," and gamekeepers generally look upon the owner of a Lurcher as one worthy of a little extra vigilance.Any cross-bred dog, in whom the Greyhound blood predominates, may be designated as a Lurcher, and can be trained as such.Many of these dogs are wonderfully clever on rabbits, and some will kill a hare single-handed, more especially if about three-quarter bred on the Greyhound side, when staying power and swiftness are highly developed.Good at fighting, good at poaching, good at retrieving, and fidelity to master, may justly be claimed as the Lurcher's inheritance.THE TRAINING, USE, AND ABUSE, OF NIGHT-DOGSTo Mr W. Burton, of Thorneywood Kennels, Nottingham (per gamekeeper), I am indebted for the following account."A perfectly trained and reliable night-dogis as useful to the gamekeeper as two or three additional assistants, and, indeed, I have personally heard old poachers remark that they would rather face a dozen men than half that number accompanied by one of these animals, even if resistance would be offered at all where a dog was employed against them. Such being the case, it makes one wonder why night-dogs are not more frequently used by gamekeepers in rough localities, and I am afraid the animals have come into disrepute, owing to the manner in which their employment has been abused by careless watchers."It must not be supposed that a night-dog simply requires rearing, and that when old enough a muzzle has only to be put on and he will face anything he is encouraged to attack. The dog must be trained to his duty as a retriever is taught to bring in game, or he will never prove a satisfactory companion when poachers are about."When a puppy has been procured, he should be accustomed to wear a muzzle from an early age—five months for instance—and strangers should not be allowed to pet and caress him; on the other hand, they may tease him as much as they like, providing that he is not hurt. Of all the muzzles made I prefer those with a solid piece of leather beneath the jaw, and straps round the neck and nose having buckles so that they may be manipulated as required.The Celebrated Keeper's Night-Dog Thorneywood Terror, said to be the most perfectly trained Night Dog ever bred. (Property of MrBurton, Thorneywood Kennels, Nottingham.)"When the dog is ten months old and quite used to wearing its muzzle, he should be taken muzzled to a quiet place where you have previously arranged for a perfect stranger to be. This man should have a bag rolled up and strapped to one hand, and a glove on the other, and should be in hiding at the appointed spot; when the dog and his master get within a hundred yards or so, the stranger should 'break covert' and run out across the field. The dog must at once be released and encouraged to attack the man, his owner running with him the while. Upon the dog's coming up with his quarry it is the duty of the latter to buffet him with the bag, pull his tail and flank, and tease him generally. Do not let this continue too long without a break, as a muzzled dog is soon winded. His master should reach the spot as quickly as possible, encourage the animal a little, and then take him off and loosen his muzzle; after a slight rest he may be permitted another run as before."When the dog begins to display anxiety for the fray, the man may be provided with a thin cane, and instructed to give him a slight stroke or two, but, at this moment, great care should be taken to observe its effect. Some dogs, although gameto a finish, are shy and sensitive, and a stroke with a stick will cause hesitation, not from fear of the blow, but because an impression of doing wrong is conveyed thereby. Should the dog waver at this treatment, relinquish the use of the stick for a time, and then introduce it again by degrees; if bred right he will soon commence to resent it with fury. I have known pups from the same litter to vary greatly in the development of courage, one standing any amount of stick at a year, while others would not face it until six months older."Such an instance I came across a short time ago. A keeper had a youngster from me and eighteen months later reported that it had been no good. I was surprised, and inquired if he had thoroughly tried the creature. 'Yes!' said he, 'I got one of the night-watchers to run across the park, and I then set the dog on him. The dog followed all right, but, when struck with a stick, returned to me, and I shot him.' This man knew I had retained one of the litter, and inquired how the puppy had progressed. I arranged for him to visit me and see the dog work, and he was surprised at what he witnessed. Afterwards I explained that an animal of this description required training, but my friend differed, and asserted that education ought not to be necessary."In no case should a dog be trained and tried on a lead or chain, or the result will be that he will not chase a man. Instead, he will only go for a poacher at close quarters, and then will continue to look round for his owner. Teach the dog to rely on himself. Some gamekeepers use their dogs on a long rope and religiously keep hold of the end thereof, but the reason for this I never could determine, unless it is to retain the animal for their own bodily protection. If so, the dog is not being put to its proper duty."A night-dog is more valuable for catching a man than for fighting one; still, he must be taught to give battle, because it is love of the scrimmage following which causes him to give chase. A dog is certainly useful when a rough fight takes place, but he is doubly so when active poachers have a long start of their pursuers, for, if he jumps at a man, he is bound to bring his victim to the ground. Besides, if a dog refuses to chase a man, he is of no good in the case of a gang which freely stones the keepers, as then a resolute animal is a welcome assistant. The chances against the dog being hit with a stone as he makes for his assailants are ten to one, and, once he is at close quarters, stones cannot be thrown at him for fear of comrades being struck, and while the animal is busy among the party the members of it will haveplenty to do to stave off his attacks, and he will allow them little leisure for pelting the keepers who must now hasten to the fight."To hark back. Suppose the dog goes for the man when released and shows no fear of the stick, he must then be taught to keep up the attack and not have a jump or two and then return from the fray, allowing his foe an opportunity of escaping. As a means of accomplishing this, the dog's owner should be as close to the animal as possible and encourage him to maintain the assault. When it is plainly to be seen that he is scant of breath, at once take him off, because, if permitted to become tired, the probability is that the dog will stand still, and, as the man promptly does the same, will return to his master, perhaps, regarding the affray as over. Once he acquires the much-to-be-regretted habit of doing this, it will need some patience to correct it. It is a golden rule never to unduly exhaust a youngster, and then, when age has been acquired, he will be game all day or night."Having progressed thus far, the dog should next be taught to find a man hidden in a ditch or up a tree. Candidly, this is a somewhat difficult undertaking, and it is not every night-dog which becomes clever in this particular. Instruct the man to secrete himself in a ditch at the opposite side of the field; be careful to give the dog the wind, and innine cases out of ten it will be noticed that he gazes as if looking for someone. Now move towards the hidden person and encourage the animal onward. As both near the ditch the dog will strongly detect the scent of his quarry, and at this point the hidden man should make a slight movement for the purpose of attracting the animal's attention. This action should be repeated until discovery takes place, and, if the dog can thus be taught to use his nose, he quickly becomes an adept at finding concealed poachers."When this is asserted, it is not meant that a man may be despatched with a few minutes' grace, and if the dog is put upon the trail the man will be followed; some bull-mastiffs may become clever enough to foot a man, but recent trials have proved that even bloodhounds have to possess the best of blood and training before they will unerringly hunt a man under these conditions."Another important thing a night-dog should be taught is to at once leave a man he has thrown down and start after another of the gang when the keepers have arrived on the scene and laid hands on the first man. Suppose a party of watchers drop across half-a-dozen poachers, who all promptly take to their heels on seeing that the opposing side are a match for them; the chances are the poachers get a good start, and are nearly certain to escape, if thedog is not competent to play his part. If he is capable, promptly slipped, and closely followed, he will soon bring one to book; he should then be taken off and encouraged to serve another likewise, and so on, until all have been arrested."To train the dog to do this, two men should start at one time, both being armed with sticks. Instruct the two to keep together, and when they are well on the run slip the dog and follow him as before directed. When the animal gets close the men must separate, and he will confine his attentions to one; immediately the man he first attacks is down, despatch the dog after the second, who should be making good pace away, while his companion stands perfectly still. At first, the dog will plainly manifest that he prefers to stay and worry the one he has succeeded in defeating rather than seek for fresh glories, but persevere with him until he does renew the chase without the least hesitation. You will succeed better in this if the second man is not allowed to get too far away, and it will be advisable for him to wave his stick and otherwise try to attract attention and invite attack. When the dog recognises what is required of him, increase the distance between first and second man, or let each run in an opposite direction. It is very necessary that a dog should be taught to respect friends, that is, to attack only those at whom he is set, and then at noother time but when he is encouraged to do so. If he fails to learn this, he is as likely as not to go at one of the watchers who happens to move or otherwise attract notice."When a dog has been sufficiently tried to prove that he is in every way game, it is advisable to allow the man upon whom he has been exercising his powers to sit near and endeavour to make friends with his four-legged opponent. All dogs will not consent to do the agreeable to this extent, but the majority will generally settle down and be quiet when they clearly understand that such behaviour is expected. It is very necessary that a dog should learn to recognise when the battle is over, and that having duly fulfilled his part he must be quiet, for it would be awkward, to say the least, if a keeper has to struggle with the animal to take him off a captured poacher, and then the rascal takes advantage of the exhaustion of both keeper and dog to escape."A night-dog should not under any circumstances be tried on a person who may at some future time have to accompany the animal while out watching. If so, the dog is nearly certain to go for this person when released for a scrimmage with poachers. Several instances like this have occurred, and in certain of them the dog had not been tried on the watcher he attacked since a puppy. This proves that they do not easily forget the identity of an opponent."There is one other thing a dog should learn, and, having acquired cleverness at it in addition to the lessons mentioned previously, the animal may be regarded as a perfect night-dog. When lying out with a party of watchers he must not be allowed to get into the habit of curling himself up and going to sleep like a fat pig. He must be taught to listen for the coming of poachers, as it is only natural that he should detect their approach by both sound and smell long before their advent on the scene is palpable to human senses. Some dogs do this naturally, and the remainder only need encouragement to render them proficient watchers. If a young dog displays a tendency to fall asleep when out, arrange for a man to come on the scene just about the time the animal will be settled down. This individual should move as cautiously as he can, go straight to the dog, and have a good rough round or two with him. Repeat the dose at intervals, and the dog will soon take to watching attentively, expecting every sound to announce the appearance of an antagonist."Never permit a night-dog to chase game or rabbits; if he is allowed to do this the movements made by them at night will monopolise his attention, and the watchers will never be sure whether he is pricking up his ears at a rabbit rustling in the dead leaves or at the approach of poachers; when released for a chase or scrimmage he will belikely to direct his attention towards the less noble game."Opinions vary as to the weight a night-dog should attain, but a small dog, however persevering he may be, cannot be so effective as one which has the qualities of being large, game, and active. Suppose a dog, of 50 or 60 lbs. weight only, were to jump at a man, the latter could not be knocked down. A clever poacher would wait his opportunity, catch the animal in his arms, and throw him over an adjacent wall or fence, well aware that the dog could not jump back. A night-dog should not be less than 80 lbs., and if he is 100 lbs., strong and active, so much the better. He ought to be able to jump a gate with ease and to get over ground at a good pace. For colour a brindle is to be preferred, not being so plainly visible at night as a red, fawn, or even black dog."When a perfect dog has been bought or trained, every care should be taken that the animal is used properly. He should only be slipped at a man when absolutely necessary, and then must be securely muzzled. If a scrimmage becomes desperate and develops into a fight for life, the watchers must use their own discretion as to allowing their dog freedom to bite; if his muzzle be taken off, the man he attacks will surely be marked in such a way that he will be easily identified. To slip a night-dog at lads trespassing after mushrooms, blackberries, etc., is theheight of wanton folly, as the lads may be injured or terrified to a serious degree. Remember, it is best not to loose the dog at all if a man can be captured without his help, and he should be muzzled except in extreme cases. If a poacher who has had his clothes torn and been bitten simply because he ran away is brought before magistrates, he may excite the pity of the latter, although he heartily deserves condemnation from his judges; besides, a civil action for damages may ensue."It is entirely through forgetfulness of these rules that so many gentlemen object to night-dogs being used on their estates. But, if an animal of this kind is regarded in its proper light, and its use not abused, its mere presence will do more to deter poaching than the employment of half-a-dozen extra hands."
Through the kindness of Cary Barnard, Esq., of Hailsham, I am able to give an illustration of this variety of dog so scarce in this country, the specimen depicted being typical of the breed.
These Hounds are said to be somewhat difficult to obtain, the owners are unwilling to part with them, being kept by a class who consider it a distinction to own them.
In the Natural History Museum at South Kensington there is a stuffed specimen, practically identical with the one herein portrayed.
Built on racing lines, in almost every particular, these dogs look exceedingly quaint, chiefly because of the feather, or long hairs, upon the ears, throat, backs of the limbs, feet, and tail.
Skullis rather broad, and flat on the top, but there is no "stop."
Eyes.—Small, placed close together and well to the front, giving the animal the appearance of having a very penetrating vision.
Ears.—Remind one of a short-eared Spaniel, and from over their surface long hairs proceed.
Neck.—Long, rather thick, and the body and loins long, yet well coupled.
When viewed from the front, these Hounds look very tall, due to the great length of the arms and forearms. These regions, and those of the shoulders, are strongly built.
When at rest, tail is carried rather like that of the Irish Water Spaniel, and during excitement, elevated, but not carried over the back. It has an abundance of long hair.
First and second thighs long, and feathery to a short distance above the hocks. Hind toes are well clothed with hair. The hocks are strong, low-placed, and pasterns long.
Colour.—Fawn, with the feathered portions running to a silvery white.
Weight.—About 50 lbs.
Height at shoulder.—24 inches, or thereabout.
Uses.—During Captain Barnard's residence in Afghanistan, the Hound depicted in our illustration was used for running jackal, and said to be very useful for this purpose.
He is an exceptionally fine jumper, having made a clean leap over a fence 9 feet 4 inches in height—a most creditable performance. This Hound has won numerous prizes, including a 2nd, at Crystal Palace.
Afghan Greyhound(Property of MrCary Barnard).
Afghan Greyhound(Property of MrCary Barnard).
Afghan Greyhound(Property of MrCary Barnard).
We shall do little more than mention the existence of this cross-bred variety of dog.
The proprietor of a Lurcher has always been regarded as one who will, when the opportunity offers, take his dog "up the back stairs," and gamekeepers generally look upon the owner of a Lurcher as one worthy of a little extra vigilance.
Any cross-bred dog, in whom the Greyhound blood predominates, may be designated as a Lurcher, and can be trained as such.
Many of these dogs are wonderfully clever on rabbits, and some will kill a hare single-handed, more especially if about three-quarter bred on the Greyhound side, when staying power and swiftness are highly developed.
Good at fighting, good at poaching, good at retrieving, and fidelity to master, may justly be claimed as the Lurcher's inheritance.
THE TRAINING, USE, AND ABUSE, OF NIGHT-DOGS
To Mr W. Burton, of Thorneywood Kennels, Nottingham (per gamekeeper), I am indebted for the following account.
"A perfectly trained and reliable night-dogis as useful to the gamekeeper as two or three additional assistants, and, indeed, I have personally heard old poachers remark that they would rather face a dozen men than half that number accompanied by one of these animals, even if resistance would be offered at all where a dog was employed against them. Such being the case, it makes one wonder why night-dogs are not more frequently used by gamekeepers in rough localities, and I am afraid the animals have come into disrepute, owing to the manner in which their employment has been abused by careless watchers.
"It must not be supposed that a night-dog simply requires rearing, and that when old enough a muzzle has only to be put on and he will face anything he is encouraged to attack. The dog must be trained to his duty as a retriever is taught to bring in game, or he will never prove a satisfactory companion when poachers are about.
"When a puppy has been procured, he should be accustomed to wear a muzzle from an early age—five months for instance—and strangers should not be allowed to pet and caress him; on the other hand, they may tease him as much as they like, providing that he is not hurt. Of all the muzzles made I prefer those with a solid piece of leather beneath the jaw, and straps round the neck and nose having buckles so that they may be manipulated as required.
The Celebrated Keeper's Night-Dog Thorneywood Terror, said to be the most perfectly trained Night Dog ever bred. (Property of MrBurton, Thorneywood Kennels, Nottingham.)
The Celebrated Keeper's Night-Dog Thorneywood Terror, said to be the most perfectly trained Night Dog ever bred. (Property of MrBurton, Thorneywood Kennels, Nottingham.)
The Celebrated Keeper's Night-Dog Thorneywood Terror, said to be the most perfectly trained Night Dog ever bred. (Property of MrBurton, Thorneywood Kennels, Nottingham.)
"When the dog is ten months old and quite used to wearing its muzzle, he should be taken muzzled to a quiet place where you have previously arranged for a perfect stranger to be. This man should have a bag rolled up and strapped to one hand, and a glove on the other, and should be in hiding at the appointed spot; when the dog and his master get within a hundred yards or so, the stranger should 'break covert' and run out across the field. The dog must at once be released and encouraged to attack the man, his owner running with him the while. Upon the dog's coming up with his quarry it is the duty of the latter to buffet him with the bag, pull his tail and flank, and tease him generally. Do not let this continue too long without a break, as a muzzled dog is soon winded. His master should reach the spot as quickly as possible, encourage the animal a little, and then take him off and loosen his muzzle; after a slight rest he may be permitted another run as before.
"When the dog begins to display anxiety for the fray, the man may be provided with a thin cane, and instructed to give him a slight stroke or two, but, at this moment, great care should be taken to observe its effect. Some dogs, although gameto a finish, are shy and sensitive, and a stroke with a stick will cause hesitation, not from fear of the blow, but because an impression of doing wrong is conveyed thereby. Should the dog waver at this treatment, relinquish the use of the stick for a time, and then introduce it again by degrees; if bred right he will soon commence to resent it with fury. I have known pups from the same litter to vary greatly in the development of courage, one standing any amount of stick at a year, while others would not face it until six months older.
"Such an instance I came across a short time ago. A keeper had a youngster from me and eighteen months later reported that it had been no good. I was surprised, and inquired if he had thoroughly tried the creature. 'Yes!' said he, 'I got one of the night-watchers to run across the park, and I then set the dog on him. The dog followed all right, but, when struck with a stick, returned to me, and I shot him.' This man knew I had retained one of the litter, and inquired how the puppy had progressed. I arranged for him to visit me and see the dog work, and he was surprised at what he witnessed. Afterwards I explained that an animal of this description required training, but my friend differed, and asserted that education ought not to be necessary.
"In no case should a dog be trained and tried on a lead or chain, or the result will be that he will not chase a man. Instead, he will only go for a poacher at close quarters, and then will continue to look round for his owner. Teach the dog to rely on himself. Some gamekeepers use their dogs on a long rope and religiously keep hold of the end thereof, but the reason for this I never could determine, unless it is to retain the animal for their own bodily protection. If so, the dog is not being put to its proper duty.
"A night-dog is more valuable for catching a man than for fighting one; still, he must be taught to give battle, because it is love of the scrimmage following which causes him to give chase. A dog is certainly useful when a rough fight takes place, but he is doubly so when active poachers have a long start of their pursuers, for, if he jumps at a man, he is bound to bring his victim to the ground. Besides, if a dog refuses to chase a man, he is of no good in the case of a gang which freely stones the keepers, as then a resolute animal is a welcome assistant. The chances against the dog being hit with a stone as he makes for his assailants are ten to one, and, once he is at close quarters, stones cannot be thrown at him for fear of comrades being struck, and while the animal is busy among the party the members of it will haveplenty to do to stave off his attacks, and he will allow them little leisure for pelting the keepers who must now hasten to the fight.
"To hark back. Suppose the dog goes for the man when released and shows no fear of the stick, he must then be taught to keep up the attack and not have a jump or two and then return from the fray, allowing his foe an opportunity of escaping. As a means of accomplishing this, the dog's owner should be as close to the animal as possible and encourage him to maintain the assault. When it is plainly to be seen that he is scant of breath, at once take him off, because, if permitted to become tired, the probability is that the dog will stand still, and, as the man promptly does the same, will return to his master, perhaps, regarding the affray as over. Once he acquires the much-to-be-regretted habit of doing this, it will need some patience to correct it. It is a golden rule never to unduly exhaust a youngster, and then, when age has been acquired, he will be game all day or night.
"Having progressed thus far, the dog should next be taught to find a man hidden in a ditch or up a tree. Candidly, this is a somewhat difficult undertaking, and it is not every night-dog which becomes clever in this particular. Instruct the man to secrete himself in a ditch at the opposite side of the field; be careful to give the dog the wind, and innine cases out of ten it will be noticed that he gazes as if looking for someone. Now move towards the hidden person and encourage the animal onward. As both near the ditch the dog will strongly detect the scent of his quarry, and at this point the hidden man should make a slight movement for the purpose of attracting the animal's attention. This action should be repeated until discovery takes place, and, if the dog can thus be taught to use his nose, he quickly becomes an adept at finding concealed poachers.
"When this is asserted, it is not meant that a man may be despatched with a few minutes' grace, and if the dog is put upon the trail the man will be followed; some bull-mastiffs may become clever enough to foot a man, but recent trials have proved that even bloodhounds have to possess the best of blood and training before they will unerringly hunt a man under these conditions.
"Another important thing a night-dog should be taught is to at once leave a man he has thrown down and start after another of the gang when the keepers have arrived on the scene and laid hands on the first man. Suppose a party of watchers drop across half-a-dozen poachers, who all promptly take to their heels on seeing that the opposing side are a match for them; the chances are the poachers get a good start, and are nearly certain to escape, if thedog is not competent to play his part. If he is capable, promptly slipped, and closely followed, he will soon bring one to book; he should then be taken off and encouraged to serve another likewise, and so on, until all have been arrested.
"To train the dog to do this, two men should start at one time, both being armed with sticks. Instruct the two to keep together, and when they are well on the run slip the dog and follow him as before directed. When the animal gets close the men must separate, and he will confine his attentions to one; immediately the man he first attacks is down, despatch the dog after the second, who should be making good pace away, while his companion stands perfectly still. At first, the dog will plainly manifest that he prefers to stay and worry the one he has succeeded in defeating rather than seek for fresh glories, but persevere with him until he does renew the chase without the least hesitation. You will succeed better in this if the second man is not allowed to get too far away, and it will be advisable for him to wave his stick and otherwise try to attract attention and invite attack. When the dog recognises what is required of him, increase the distance between first and second man, or let each run in an opposite direction. It is very necessary that a dog should be taught to respect friends, that is, to attack only those at whom he is set, and then at noother time but when he is encouraged to do so. If he fails to learn this, he is as likely as not to go at one of the watchers who happens to move or otherwise attract notice.
"When a dog has been sufficiently tried to prove that he is in every way game, it is advisable to allow the man upon whom he has been exercising his powers to sit near and endeavour to make friends with his four-legged opponent. All dogs will not consent to do the agreeable to this extent, but the majority will generally settle down and be quiet when they clearly understand that such behaviour is expected. It is very necessary that a dog should learn to recognise when the battle is over, and that having duly fulfilled his part he must be quiet, for it would be awkward, to say the least, if a keeper has to struggle with the animal to take him off a captured poacher, and then the rascal takes advantage of the exhaustion of both keeper and dog to escape.
"A night-dog should not under any circumstances be tried on a person who may at some future time have to accompany the animal while out watching. If so, the dog is nearly certain to go for this person when released for a scrimmage with poachers. Several instances like this have occurred, and in certain of them the dog had not been tried on the watcher he attacked since a puppy. This proves that they do not easily forget the identity of an opponent.
"There is one other thing a dog should learn, and, having acquired cleverness at it in addition to the lessons mentioned previously, the animal may be regarded as a perfect night-dog. When lying out with a party of watchers he must not be allowed to get into the habit of curling himself up and going to sleep like a fat pig. He must be taught to listen for the coming of poachers, as it is only natural that he should detect their approach by both sound and smell long before their advent on the scene is palpable to human senses. Some dogs do this naturally, and the remainder only need encouragement to render them proficient watchers. If a young dog displays a tendency to fall asleep when out, arrange for a man to come on the scene just about the time the animal will be settled down. This individual should move as cautiously as he can, go straight to the dog, and have a good rough round or two with him. Repeat the dose at intervals, and the dog will soon take to watching attentively, expecting every sound to announce the appearance of an antagonist.
"Never permit a night-dog to chase game or rabbits; if he is allowed to do this the movements made by them at night will monopolise his attention, and the watchers will never be sure whether he is pricking up his ears at a rabbit rustling in the dead leaves or at the approach of poachers; when released for a chase or scrimmage he will belikely to direct his attention towards the less noble game.
"Opinions vary as to the weight a night-dog should attain, but a small dog, however persevering he may be, cannot be so effective as one which has the qualities of being large, game, and active. Suppose a dog, of 50 or 60 lbs. weight only, were to jump at a man, the latter could not be knocked down. A clever poacher would wait his opportunity, catch the animal in his arms, and throw him over an adjacent wall or fence, well aware that the dog could not jump back. A night-dog should not be less than 80 lbs., and if he is 100 lbs., strong and active, so much the better. He ought to be able to jump a gate with ease and to get over ground at a good pace. For colour a brindle is to be preferred, not being so plainly visible at night as a red, fawn, or even black dog.
"When a perfect dog has been bought or trained, every care should be taken that the animal is used properly. He should only be slipped at a man when absolutely necessary, and then must be securely muzzled. If a scrimmage becomes desperate and develops into a fight for life, the watchers must use their own discretion as to allowing their dog freedom to bite; if his muzzle be taken off, the man he attacks will surely be marked in such a way that he will be easily identified. To slip a night-dog at lads trespassing after mushrooms, blackberries, etc., is theheight of wanton folly, as the lads may be injured or terrified to a serious degree. Remember, it is best not to loose the dog at all if a man can be captured without his help, and he should be muzzled except in extreme cases. If a poacher who has had his clothes torn and been bitten simply because he ran away is brought before magistrates, he may excite the pity of the latter, although he heartily deserves condemnation from his judges; besides, a civil action for damages may ensue.
"It is entirely through forgetfulness of these rules that so many gentlemen object to night-dogs being used on their estates. But, if an animal of this kind is regarded in its proper light, and its use not abused, its mere presence will do more to deter poaching than the employment of half-a-dozen extra hands."
CHAPTER XVTHE GAMEKEEPERS' KENNEL ASSOCIATIONConcerning the AssociationThe Gamekeepers' Kennel Association has been formed with the primary object of taking over the organisation of the Gamekeepers' Dog Show as first held at the Westminster Aquarium, on 31st July and 1st and 2nd August 1900, it being deemed advisable by all parties concerned that the show should cease to be proprietary or to be promoted by any firm having trading interests with Gamekeepers. The other aims which the Association has in view are fully described in the following pages, and the Executive will do everything in their power to uphold and protect the rights of Game-preservers, recognising that in this lie the best interests of the Association and its members. The rule regarding the exclusion of undesirable persons from membership will be strictly enforced, and the Executive hope, that in time, the fact that a Gamekeeper is a member of the Association will be looked upon as a proof of ability and good character.Donations and Subscriptions in aid of the Funds of the Association will be gladly received and acknowledged by the Secretary. Cheques and Post-office Orders should be made payable to the Gamekeepers' Kennel Association and crossed "Barclay & Co." Secretary's address is:—MrF. W. Millard,Hertford, Herts.Rules1. That the name of the Association be "The Gamekeepers' Kennel Association."2. That the object of the Association shall be to hold an Annual Show for the exhibition and sale of trained dogs owned by Gamekeepers, to uphold by all lawful means the rights of Game-preservers, to maintain at the Offices of the Association a register of Gamekeepers out of place, of situations vacant, and of dogs for sale, and also to promote the interests of game-preserving and Gamekeepers generally in the United Kingdom.3. That the funds of the Association be spent in the furtherance of these and other objects considered by the Committee to be necessary for the welfare of Gamekeepers generally.4. That a President, Vice-President, and Treasurer be elected annually.5. That the present Committee remain in office two years.6. That after the lapse of two years from the formation of the Association one-third of the Committee shall retire annually by rotation.7. That the said rotation be decided according to alphabetical order.8. That all members of the Committee retiring shall be eligible for re-election.9. That all members of the Committee re-elected on retirement, and members elected in the place of those who resign, remain on the Committee for three years.10. That the Committee have power to add to their number.11. That the Secretary of the Association be subject to one month's notice.12. That onlybonâ fideGamekeepers be eligible for membership.13. That the definition "Gamekeeper" be understood to include, for the purposes of membership, anyone wholly engaged in the preservation of game, deer, or fish.14. That a Gamekeeper who has been a member of the Association five years or more shall, on retiring from his duties as Gamekeeper through old age or other physical incapacity, still be eligible for membership.15. That retired gamekeepers who wish to at once become members of the Association, be eligible for election at the option of the Committee.16. That the annual subscription to be paid by members be fixed at 5s. per annum for head-keepers and single-handed-keepers, and 2s. 6d. per annum for under-keepers.17. That these subscriptions be considered due on the 1st of January each year, and must be paid before the 31st of that month.18. That members wishing to join the Association at any time other than the month of January must pay the full subscription for the current year.19. That all under-men wishing to join the Association must be recommended by a head-keeper under whom they have served.20. That no head-keeper, after 31st December 1904, shall be accepted as a member, without a recommendation from his employer, or another head-keeper who has already been enrolled.21. That the Committee reserve the right to refuse any application for membership, and also to expel any member for any wilful misconduct which they decide is detrimental to the objects of the Association.22. All members who have benefited by the Register, and not continued to belong to the Association, must, if re-elected to membership, payany subscriptions in arrear, together with a fine of five shillings.23. That no one except a member of the Association be allowed to exhibit at any show promoted by the Association.24. That no member be allowed to show a dog at any show unless he has been enrolled a member since before 1st February of the same year.25. All cheques to be signed by both Treasurer and Secretary.26. That all persons assisting in the management of the Association who are known to have trading interests with the members thereof, be understood to hold office in their private capacity only.27. That the Gamekeepers' Kennel Association recognise the authority of the Kennel Club, and agree to obey the Rules and Regulations laid down by the Kennel Club.28. All new rules shall be framed and adopted in Committee.Rules for the Conduct of Meetings1. That the dates and places of all meetings be fixed by the Secretary, and approved by at least three members of the Committee.2. That each member of the Committee shall receive notice of all meetings at least seven days previous to the date of such meetings.3. Want of service of notice of meeting on any member of the Committee shall not affect the validity of such meeting.4. That five members of the Committee be considered a quorum.5. That votes be taken by show of hands.6. That all questions be decided by majority.7. That the President or Chairman of any meeting for the time being shall have a second or casting vote.8. That minutes of the proceedings of every meeting be fairly entered into a book kept for that purpose.9. That notices of motions to be moved at any meeting by any member of the Committee be sent in to the Secretary on receipt of notice convening such meetings.10. That the Committee from time to time make such rules as they consider necessary for the Regulation of the proceedings at their meetings.Legal BureauEvery member has a right to legal advice from the Honorary Solicitor of the Association regarding any matter connected with his duties. All applications for such advice must be made through the Secretary, and letters addressed direct to Mr Everitt will not receive attention. This regulation is necessary toprevent outsiders seeking benefits reserved exclusively for members. Mr Everitt is prepared to take legal action on behalf of members and their employers at recognised fees, and his great knowledge of the intricacies of the Game Laws should ensure his engagement in all difficult cases with reference to a breach of these laws.Veterinary BureauEvery member of the Association has the privilege of obtaining free veterinary advice on all matters pertaining to his kennels, diseases of game, etc. Applications must be sent through the Secretary of the Association, a description of the symptoms, duration of the disease, number of animals affected, and any other information likely to be of service to the expert when forming an opinion.The Situation RegisterThe Executive of the Association will make every effort to assist those of its members requiring situations, and, for that purpose, advertisements will in due season be inserted in certain papers asking gentlemen requiring Gamekeepers to write to the Secretary and state their wants. A register of members out of place will be maintained at the offices of the Association, and it is hoped that head-keepersrequiring under-men will in all cases apply to the Secretary before seeking elsewhere.Directions to be followed by Members desirous of obtaining a Situation through the AssociationA member out of place wishing to be entered on the Register of the Association must apply to the Secretary for a form to fill up and return.Each member in corresponding with the Secretary must give his number, which number will be found on his card of membership.Should a member on the register obtain a situation by other means, he must at once acquaint the Secretary that he has been engaged.Should a member be taken into the employment of a gentleman or head-keeper, with whom he has been placed in communication by the Secretary, he must at once inform the Secretary, that his name may be removed from the register.RemarksThe Secretary will place members requiring situations in communication with applicants for Gamekeepers as fast as inquiries fall in, but in each case the two parties must arrange their own terms. The Executive will do their best to find suitable men for the places offered, but they give no recommendation. It is earnestly requested that members making achange will at once send their new address to the Secretary.The Register of Dogs for SaleThe Association maintains at its offices a register of sporting dogs, belonging to its members, which are for sale, and from time to time advertisements will be placed in certain papers that dogs are on the register for disposal. It will be the earnest endeavour of the Executive to induce sportsmen, in want of well-trained dogs, to apply to the Secretary, and it is hoped that head-keepers requiring dogs will purchase through the Association.Directions for Placing a Dog upon the Register of the AssociationA member of the Association having a dog for sale must write to the Secretary for a form on which the animal and its capabilities may be described. When the Secretary receives this form back the dog will be entered upon the Register of the Association.Each member in corresponding with the Secretary must give his number, which number will be found on his card of membership.Should a dog upon the Register of the Association be disposed of privately by its owner, he must immediately inform the Secretary, that it may be removed from the Register. Breaches of this orderwill be dealt with by the Committee, because endless confusion and delay will ensue if it is not followed out.Beyond placing seller and purchaser in communication with each other, the Association can accept no responsibility.Rules to be observed by both Parties when a Dog goes on Trial1. When an intending purchaser stipulates for a trial, a dog must be in his hands four clear days, the days of despatch and return not being counted.2. The intending purchaser must be deemed responsible for the dog's safety during the period allowed for trial.3. The carriage of a dog on the outward journey must be paid by the person to whom it goes on trial.4. If a dog is returned after a trial as unsuitable, its owner must pay carriage on the homeward journey.5. On a sale being concluded, the late owner of the dog sold must immediately inform the Secretary.6. If a dog after trial is returned as unsuitable, its owner must at once inform the Secretary. Until he has done this, no further measures for its sale will be taken.NoticeGentlemen will much simplify the work of the Secretary if, when requiring a dog, they explicitly state their wants, and mention the price they are prepared to give.RemarksThe Executive hope that both parties to a transaction will implicitly observe the foregoing rules and directions. When filling up the forms, an exact description of a dog and its capabilities should be given; if misrepresentation is attempted, irretrievable harm will be done to the Association and its objects. Once sportsmen are assured that the Association is a reliable source from which well-trained dogs may be obtained, they will not fail to resort to it. By observing the utmost care when filling in a form, members will be protecting their own interests, aiding the Executive, and enhancing the honour of the Association.Stud DogsThat Gamekeepers may be encouraged to breed true to the recognised types, the Secretary of the Association will be glad to correspond with owners of prize stud dogs with a view of securing a reduction of fees in favour of members of the Association. All members will be duly advised throughThe Gamekeeperof such reductions when they are allowed, and the Executive hope that the efforts they are making in this direction will be to the advantage of both members and owners of stud dogs. Members of the Association, who have valuable dogs, are particularly requested to place them at the service of other members for stud purposes.NoticeThe Secretary will be pleased to forward particulars to members who are desirous of making the Association known amongst their Gamekeeper friends. It is hoped that each member will do his best to add to the roll of the Association by inducing others to join. Forms of application for intending members may be obtained of the Secretary, who will be glad to answer all inquiries.A monthly report concerning the work and position of the Association will be found in each issue of its organ,The Gamekeeper.A list of stud dogs, placed at the service of members at reduced fees, is also occasionally published inThe Gamekeeper, copies of this paper being obtainable from theEditor, Hertford, Herts.Recently efforts have been made towards instituting a fund for the benefit of keepers during later life.
Concerning the Association
The Gamekeepers' Kennel Association has been formed with the primary object of taking over the organisation of the Gamekeepers' Dog Show as first held at the Westminster Aquarium, on 31st July and 1st and 2nd August 1900, it being deemed advisable by all parties concerned that the show should cease to be proprietary or to be promoted by any firm having trading interests with Gamekeepers. The other aims which the Association has in view are fully described in the following pages, and the Executive will do everything in their power to uphold and protect the rights of Game-preservers, recognising that in this lie the best interests of the Association and its members. The rule regarding the exclusion of undesirable persons from membership will be strictly enforced, and the Executive hope, that in time, the fact that a Gamekeeper is a member of the Association will be looked upon as a proof of ability and good character.
Donations and Subscriptions in aid of the Funds of the Association will be gladly received and acknowledged by the Secretary. Cheques and Post-office Orders should be made payable to the Gamekeepers' Kennel Association and crossed "Barclay & Co." Secretary's address is:—
MrF. W. Millard,
Hertford, Herts.
Rules
1. That the name of the Association be "The Gamekeepers' Kennel Association."
2. That the object of the Association shall be to hold an Annual Show for the exhibition and sale of trained dogs owned by Gamekeepers, to uphold by all lawful means the rights of Game-preservers, to maintain at the Offices of the Association a register of Gamekeepers out of place, of situations vacant, and of dogs for sale, and also to promote the interests of game-preserving and Gamekeepers generally in the United Kingdom.
3. That the funds of the Association be spent in the furtherance of these and other objects considered by the Committee to be necessary for the welfare of Gamekeepers generally.
4. That a President, Vice-President, and Treasurer be elected annually.
5. That the present Committee remain in office two years.
6. That after the lapse of two years from the formation of the Association one-third of the Committee shall retire annually by rotation.
7. That the said rotation be decided according to alphabetical order.
8. That all members of the Committee retiring shall be eligible for re-election.
9. That all members of the Committee re-elected on retirement, and members elected in the place of those who resign, remain on the Committee for three years.
10. That the Committee have power to add to their number.
11. That the Secretary of the Association be subject to one month's notice.
12. That onlybonâ fideGamekeepers be eligible for membership.
13. That the definition "Gamekeeper" be understood to include, for the purposes of membership, anyone wholly engaged in the preservation of game, deer, or fish.
14. That a Gamekeeper who has been a member of the Association five years or more shall, on retiring from his duties as Gamekeeper through old age or other physical incapacity, still be eligible for membership.
15. That retired gamekeepers who wish to at once become members of the Association, be eligible for election at the option of the Committee.
16. That the annual subscription to be paid by members be fixed at 5s. per annum for head-keepers and single-handed-keepers, and 2s. 6d. per annum for under-keepers.
17. That these subscriptions be considered due on the 1st of January each year, and must be paid before the 31st of that month.
18. That members wishing to join the Association at any time other than the month of January must pay the full subscription for the current year.
19. That all under-men wishing to join the Association must be recommended by a head-keeper under whom they have served.
20. That no head-keeper, after 31st December 1904, shall be accepted as a member, without a recommendation from his employer, or another head-keeper who has already been enrolled.
21. That the Committee reserve the right to refuse any application for membership, and also to expel any member for any wilful misconduct which they decide is detrimental to the objects of the Association.
22. All members who have benefited by the Register, and not continued to belong to the Association, must, if re-elected to membership, payany subscriptions in arrear, together with a fine of five shillings.
23. That no one except a member of the Association be allowed to exhibit at any show promoted by the Association.
24. That no member be allowed to show a dog at any show unless he has been enrolled a member since before 1st February of the same year.
25. All cheques to be signed by both Treasurer and Secretary.
26. That all persons assisting in the management of the Association who are known to have trading interests with the members thereof, be understood to hold office in their private capacity only.
27. That the Gamekeepers' Kennel Association recognise the authority of the Kennel Club, and agree to obey the Rules and Regulations laid down by the Kennel Club.
28. All new rules shall be framed and adopted in Committee.
Rules for the Conduct of Meetings
1. That the dates and places of all meetings be fixed by the Secretary, and approved by at least three members of the Committee.
2. That each member of the Committee shall receive notice of all meetings at least seven days previous to the date of such meetings.
3. Want of service of notice of meeting on any member of the Committee shall not affect the validity of such meeting.
4. That five members of the Committee be considered a quorum.
5. That votes be taken by show of hands.
6. That all questions be decided by majority.
7. That the President or Chairman of any meeting for the time being shall have a second or casting vote.
8. That minutes of the proceedings of every meeting be fairly entered into a book kept for that purpose.
9. That notices of motions to be moved at any meeting by any member of the Committee be sent in to the Secretary on receipt of notice convening such meetings.
10. That the Committee from time to time make such rules as they consider necessary for the Regulation of the proceedings at their meetings.
Legal Bureau
Every member has a right to legal advice from the Honorary Solicitor of the Association regarding any matter connected with his duties. All applications for such advice must be made through the Secretary, and letters addressed direct to Mr Everitt will not receive attention. This regulation is necessary toprevent outsiders seeking benefits reserved exclusively for members. Mr Everitt is prepared to take legal action on behalf of members and their employers at recognised fees, and his great knowledge of the intricacies of the Game Laws should ensure his engagement in all difficult cases with reference to a breach of these laws.
Veterinary Bureau
Every member of the Association has the privilege of obtaining free veterinary advice on all matters pertaining to his kennels, diseases of game, etc. Applications must be sent through the Secretary of the Association, a description of the symptoms, duration of the disease, number of animals affected, and any other information likely to be of service to the expert when forming an opinion.
The Situation Register
The Executive of the Association will make every effort to assist those of its members requiring situations, and, for that purpose, advertisements will in due season be inserted in certain papers asking gentlemen requiring Gamekeepers to write to the Secretary and state their wants. A register of members out of place will be maintained at the offices of the Association, and it is hoped that head-keepersrequiring under-men will in all cases apply to the Secretary before seeking elsewhere.
Directions to be followed by Members desirous of obtaining a Situation through the Association
A member out of place wishing to be entered on the Register of the Association must apply to the Secretary for a form to fill up and return.
Each member in corresponding with the Secretary must give his number, which number will be found on his card of membership.
Should a member on the register obtain a situation by other means, he must at once acquaint the Secretary that he has been engaged.
Should a member be taken into the employment of a gentleman or head-keeper, with whom he has been placed in communication by the Secretary, he must at once inform the Secretary, that his name may be removed from the register.
Remarks
The Secretary will place members requiring situations in communication with applicants for Gamekeepers as fast as inquiries fall in, but in each case the two parties must arrange their own terms. The Executive will do their best to find suitable men for the places offered, but they give no recommendation. It is earnestly requested that members making achange will at once send their new address to the Secretary.
The Register of Dogs for Sale
The Association maintains at its offices a register of sporting dogs, belonging to its members, which are for sale, and from time to time advertisements will be placed in certain papers that dogs are on the register for disposal. It will be the earnest endeavour of the Executive to induce sportsmen, in want of well-trained dogs, to apply to the Secretary, and it is hoped that head-keepers requiring dogs will purchase through the Association.
Directions for Placing a Dog upon the Register of the Association
A member of the Association having a dog for sale must write to the Secretary for a form on which the animal and its capabilities may be described. When the Secretary receives this form back the dog will be entered upon the Register of the Association.
Each member in corresponding with the Secretary must give his number, which number will be found on his card of membership.
Should a dog upon the Register of the Association be disposed of privately by its owner, he must immediately inform the Secretary, that it may be removed from the Register. Breaches of this orderwill be dealt with by the Committee, because endless confusion and delay will ensue if it is not followed out.
Beyond placing seller and purchaser in communication with each other, the Association can accept no responsibility.
Rules to be observed by both Parties when a Dog goes on Trial
1. When an intending purchaser stipulates for a trial, a dog must be in his hands four clear days, the days of despatch and return not being counted.
2. The intending purchaser must be deemed responsible for the dog's safety during the period allowed for trial.
3. The carriage of a dog on the outward journey must be paid by the person to whom it goes on trial.
4. If a dog is returned after a trial as unsuitable, its owner must pay carriage on the homeward journey.
5. On a sale being concluded, the late owner of the dog sold must immediately inform the Secretary.
6. If a dog after trial is returned as unsuitable, its owner must at once inform the Secretary. Until he has done this, no further measures for its sale will be taken.
Notice
Gentlemen will much simplify the work of the Secretary if, when requiring a dog, they explicitly state their wants, and mention the price they are prepared to give.
Remarks
The Executive hope that both parties to a transaction will implicitly observe the foregoing rules and directions. When filling up the forms, an exact description of a dog and its capabilities should be given; if misrepresentation is attempted, irretrievable harm will be done to the Association and its objects. Once sportsmen are assured that the Association is a reliable source from which well-trained dogs may be obtained, they will not fail to resort to it. By observing the utmost care when filling in a form, members will be protecting their own interests, aiding the Executive, and enhancing the honour of the Association.
Stud Dogs
That Gamekeepers may be encouraged to breed true to the recognised types, the Secretary of the Association will be glad to correspond with owners of prize stud dogs with a view of securing a reduction of fees in favour of members of the Association. All members will be duly advised throughThe Gamekeeperof such reductions when they are allowed, and the Executive hope that the efforts they are making in this direction will be to the advantage of both members and owners of stud dogs. Members of the Association, who have valuable dogs, are particularly requested to place them at the service of other members for stud purposes.
Notice
The Secretary will be pleased to forward particulars to members who are desirous of making the Association known amongst their Gamekeeper friends. It is hoped that each member will do his best to add to the roll of the Association by inducing others to join. Forms of application for intending members may be obtained of the Secretary, who will be glad to answer all inquiries.
A monthly report concerning the work and position of the Association will be found in each issue of its organ,The Gamekeeper.
A list of stud dogs, placed at the service of members at reduced fees, is also occasionally published inThe Gamekeeper, copies of this paper being obtainable from theEditor, Hertford, Herts.
Recently efforts have been made towards instituting a fund for the benefit of keepers during later life.
CHAPTER XVIFeeding Sporting DogsAmongst Masters of Hounds and breeders of other Sporting Dogs, it is a general custom to feed the animals but once a day, and in most instances this is economical and satisfactory.To maintain an even condition of the whole pack is one of the best tests as to the huntsman's management of the pack, and the kennelman's skill in feeding them.Like all other varieties of dogs, Hounds differ in their likes and dislikes to food, so that whilst certain members of the pack are thriving on the food set before them, others are losing flesh, otherwise not improving in condition. Another reason why one or more of the Hounds may not be "doing well" is often due to the weaker members being "snapped at" by their stronger and peevish brethren when at the feeding vessels. Observation will soon settle whether this be the cause of particular hounds not thriving.Shy feeders should either be allowed to have the first cut at the food, or else fed by themselves, saytwo couples at one time. Horse-flesh and good oatmeal—or some form of Hound meal—constitutes the best staple food for Hounds. During the hot weather the flesh requires to be boiled twice or thrice weekly. As a substitute, skimmed milk can be used.Nothing but sound horse-flesh ought to be used. Cattle, sheep, or pigs, that have died suddenly—unless certain that cause of death is of a harmless nature—should be avoided.There is a risk of the animals contracting anthrax, deaths from this malady amongst dogs by no means being unknown.Tuberculous cattle are equally objectionable as food for dogs.In every instance the author recommends boiling the flesh, so that no redness, or uncooked portions remain.The Hounds should be fed at least a couple of hours before starting off. Nothing can be worse than to run dogs with a full stomach.Precisely the same remark applies to all other Sporting Dogs, but to the working Hound in particular.The advantages of placing puppies "out at walk" is, as in the past, largely carried out, and the system leaves little to be desired. Most puppy walkers do justice to their charges, but huntsmen and others will do well to see that thin puppies are kept infat conndition,and notlow. The erroneous opinion, though so general, that a puppy ought to be kept down in condition when distemper is approaching, is the greatest fallacy under the sun, and one that ought to have exploded long ago.My advice to "walkers" and to owners is to feed your puppies well and get them fat, because distemper will soon plough out their ribs, etc., if unfortunate enough—as most of the good ones are—to contract it.A little black treacle (teaspoonful), mixed with meal, rice, etc., and given once a week, is beneficial. If too much be used, it makes the bowels loose, especially after the dogs get warm with work, etc.A change of food is of course desirable. Pointers, Setters, Retrievers, Beagles, Terriers, etc., etc., may have dry dog-biscuits—or soaked if preferred—given to them in a morning, and soaked stale bread—with water squeezed out—mixed with cut-up meat for the evening meal.Boiled (or raw) paunches make a splendid food for dogs, and have great nutritive value. Boiled rice, flour, and various other meals are suitable, only must have a proportionable amount of flesh added to them.Many sportsmen believe that flesh destroys a gundog's scenting power, and others that it makes thin dogs hard-mouthed. The author cannot sharethis belief. For the satisfactory performance of work, a dog must be allowed flesh, and shortness of this—a dog's natural diet—is one of the chief causes of so many dogs breaking out in skin eruptions.In addition to good food, regularly given in suitable quantities, it is necessary to see that the dogs have a plentiful supply of pure water, but it is not a good plan to give water immediately after feeding.Another matter, in connection with feeding, that gamekeepers, etc., will do well to bear in mind, is to avoid feeding a dog on the entrails, etc., of rabbits and hares—a fruitful source of worms.Conditioning DogsFirst of all, let us ask the apparently simple question, what is meant by "Condition?"Our answer is: "The highest standard of excellence for a given purpose."To the uninitiated, it may seem a very simple matter—only a question of plenty of food—to get a dog into condition—or, we ought to say, with a good layer of flesh upon his ribs.But the huntsman, sportsman, and exhibitor know different to this.It is not merely a question of food, but one of well-carried-out training—at anyrate in the eyes of the two first-named.Foxhounds, Harriers, Greyhounds, Beagles, Otterhounds, Whippets, etc., must be "well winded," and this can only be obtained by daily exercise, first on foot, and then on horseback, gradually increasing the distance and pace.The late Mr Apperley ("Nimrod") said: "That the highest virtue in a Foxhound is his being true to the line his game has gone, anda stout runner at the end of the chase." In the words printed in italics is embodied the term "Condition," as understood by the huntsman and hound-master.Accepting the statement as correct, it is not necessary to say the amount of flesh a dog should carry.With the exhibitor, matters are rather different,showcondition being his desideratum.If a sporting dog is going to a show, feed night and morning on meat and bread, so that by the time fixed for the show the ribs will have a good layer of flesh over them, being felt in outline only when the fingers are passed across them.When a dog is very thin, give him a tablespoonful of malt or cod-liver oil and malt, night and morning.Raw flesh will help matters greatly.Before starting to lay on flesh by extra feeding, oil, etc., it is generally advisable to satisfy oneself that the dog is practically free from worms, otherwisethe extra nourishment will be wasted. Try for tape-worm with a dose of areca nut, and for round-worms, three days afterwards, with 10 grains of santonin, mixed with a dessertspoonful of treacle and one tablespoonful of castor oil.The use of a hound-glove, chamois leather, and brush and comb, with an occasional bath, will do the rest.It is better to wash your dog several days before the show, because the water destroys the natural lubricant, or that making the hair glossy.Curly-coated Retrievers are improved in tightness of curl by the use of cold water.
Amongst Masters of Hounds and breeders of other Sporting Dogs, it is a general custom to feed the animals but once a day, and in most instances this is economical and satisfactory.
To maintain an even condition of the whole pack is one of the best tests as to the huntsman's management of the pack, and the kennelman's skill in feeding them.
Like all other varieties of dogs, Hounds differ in their likes and dislikes to food, so that whilst certain members of the pack are thriving on the food set before them, others are losing flesh, otherwise not improving in condition. Another reason why one or more of the Hounds may not be "doing well" is often due to the weaker members being "snapped at" by their stronger and peevish brethren when at the feeding vessels. Observation will soon settle whether this be the cause of particular hounds not thriving.
Shy feeders should either be allowed to have the first cut at the food, or else fed by themselves, saytwo couples at one time. Horse-flesh and good oatmeal—or some form of Hound meal—constitutes the best staple food for Hounds. During the hot weather the flesh requires to be boiled twice or thrice weekly. As a substitute, skimmed milk can be used.
Nothing but sound horse-flesh ought to be used. Cattle, sheep, or pigs, that have died suddenly—unless certain that cause of death is of a harmless nature—should be avoided.
There is a risk of the animals contracting anthrax, deaths from this malady amongst dogs by no means being unknown.
Tuberculous cattle are equally objectionable as food for dogs.
In every instance the author recommends boiling the flesh, so that no redness, or uncooked portions remain.
The Hounds should be fed at least a couple of hours before starting off. Nothing can be worse than to run dogs with a full stomach.
Precisely the same remark applies to all other Sporting Dogs, but to the working Hound in particular.
The advantages of placing puppies "out at walk" is, as in the past, largely carried out, and the system leaves little to be desired. Most puppy walkers do justice to their charges, but huntsmen and others will do well to see that thin puppies are kept infat conndition,and notlow. The erroneous opinion, though so general, that a puppy ought to be kept down in condition when distemper is approaching, is the greatest fallacy under the sun, and one that ought to have exploded long ago.
My advice to "walkers" and to owners is to feed your puppies well and get them fat, because distemper will soon plough out their ribs, etc., if unfortunate enough—as most of the good ones are—to contract it.
A little black treacle (teaspoonful), mixed with meal, rice, etc., and given once a week, is beneficial. If too much be used, it makes the bowels loose, especially after the dogs get warm with work, etc.
A change of food is of course desirable. Pointers, Setters, Retrievers, Beagles, Terriers, etc., etc., may have dry dog-biscuits—or soaked if preferred—given to them in a morning, and soaked stale bread—with water squeezed out—mixed with cut-up meat for the evening meal.
Boiled (or raw) paunches make a splendid food for dogs, and have great nutritive value. Boiled rice, flour, and various other meals are suitable, only must have a proportionable amount of flesh added to them.
Many sportsmen believe that flesh destroys a gundog's scenting power, and others that it makes thin dogs hard-mouthed. The author cannot sharethis belief. For the satisfactory performance of work, a dog must be allowed flesh, and shortness of this—a dog's natural diet—is one of the chief causes of so many dogs breaking out in skin eruptions.
In addition to good food, regularly given in suitable quantities, it is necessary to see that the dogs have a plentiful supply of pure water, but it is not a good plan to give water immediately after feeding.
Another matter, in connection with feeding, that gamekeepers, etc., will do well to bear in mind, is to avoid feeding a dog on the entrails, etc., of rabbits and hares—a fruitful source of worms.
First of all, let us ask the apparently simple question, what is meant by "Condition?"
Our answer is: "The highest standard of excellence for a given purpose."
To the uninitiated, it may seem a very simple matter—only a question of plenty of food—to get a dog into condition—or, we ought to say, with a good layer of flesh upon his ribs.
But the huntsman, sportsman, and exhibitor know different to this.
It is not merely a question of food, but one of well-carried-out training—at anyrate in the eyes of the two first-named.
Foxhounds, Harriers, Greyhounds, Beagles, Otterhounds, Whippets, etc., must be "well winded," and this can only be obtained by daily exercise, first on foot, and then on horseback, gradually increasing the distance and pace.
The late Mr Apperley ("Nimrod") said: "That the highest virtue in a Foxhound is his being true to the line his game has gone, anda stout runner at the end of the chase." In the words printed in italics is embodied the term "Condition," as understood by the huntsman and hound-master.
Accepting the statement as correct, it is not necessary to say the amount of flesh a dog should carry.
With the exhibitor, matters are rather different,showcondition being his desideratum.
If a sporting dog is going to a show, feed night and morning on meat and bread, so that by the time fixed for the show the ribs will have a good layer of flesh over them, being felt in outline only when the fingers are passed across them.
When a dog is very thin, give him a tablespoonful of malt or cod-liver oil and malt, night and morning.
Raw flesh will help matters greatly.
Before starting to lay on flesh by extra feeding, oil, etc., it is generally advisable to satisfy oneself that the dog is practically free from worms, otherwisethe extra nourishment will be wasted. Try for tape-worm with a dose of areca nut, and for round-worms, three days afterwards, with 10 grains of santonin, mixed with a dessertspoonful of treacle and one tablespoonful of castor oil.
The use of a hound-glove, chamois leather, and brush and comb, with an occasional bath, will do the rest.
It is better to wash your dog several days before the show, because the water destroys the natural lubricant, or that making the hair glossy.
Curly-coated Retrievers are improved in tightness of curl by the use of cold water.
CHAPTER XVIISpecific AilmentsDistemper—Rabies—Blood-Poisoning—Rheumatism or Kennel LamenessUnder the title of "Specific" Ailments, the author deems it advisable to give a brief account of such diseases as distemper, blood-poisoning, rabies or madness, rheumatism, kennel lameness, or chest founder, these complaints having as their cause germs, or micro-organisms; the production of these ailments—in three of them at least—being due to the entrance of minute organisms into the system, the excretions, or poisonous products resulting in the several forms of disease, as named above.By far the commonest of these specific canine ailments is—DISTEMPERThis malady is only too well known amongst owners and breeders of sporting dogs, and to its almost constant presence in certain kennels the rearing of puppies is seriously handicapped. It is readily communicable from one dog to another—moreparticularly the young—either by direct or indirect means.Some kennels are singularly exempt from its presence, whereas others are hardly ever without it.In the latter case, the disease obviously exists upon the premises, measures for its extinction having been inadequately carried out.One would hardly credit the multifarious channels through which this canine scourge can be propagated.Feeding utensils, benches, the hands and clothing of attendants, hampers, collars and chains, bedding, water vessels, by contact of the diseased and healthy, and possibly by wind carrying the dessicated discharges, are all liable to become active agents for the production of the malady.So varied is distemper in its method of attack, that the most expert professional may ignore its existence. Previous to the development of the symptoms, there is the so-called period of incubation,i.e., the time during which the germs are, as it were, dormant, though in reality they are maturing, the advent of their maturation being the development of the specific lesions designated distemper. By far the commonest manifestation of this horrible canine scourge is that in connection with the mucous membranes lining the eyelids, and upper air passages.Possibly these are the chief portals for the entrance of the germs, and if the specific poison would only confine its ravages to these regions, the ultimate results would be of a much less serious nature.No amount of good government will confine the assaults of the germs to positions so readily accessible to amelioration by medicinal applications, bronchial and pneumonic complications being common results, or what is, equally severe, bowels and brain lesions supervene, proving an additional source of depleting an already weakened economy. Masters of Foxhounds and proprietors of other dogs, are, we fear, only too well acquainted with the truth of this statement. The usual period of incubation is from four to fourteen days, and this should be borne in mind, so that any puppies that have been in contact with the disease may be isolated, and their temperatures taken for the next two or three weeks night and morning. The normal temperature is 101° Fahr. or a trifle over; therefore, if the mercury rises above 102° Fahr. in the morning—more particularly so—this is sufficient to warrant the animal's separation from the rest of the puppies.It has been stated that distemper may exist without any rise of temperature, or even the presence of catarrhal signs, but the author doesnot attach the slightest importance to such statements, and claims an experience equal to that of any other veterinary expert.If there is no rise of temperature, no prostration, and no catarrhal signs, one may at once conclude that the animal is not affected with distemper.Dulness, loss of appetite, sneezing, redness, heaviness of the eyes, slight husky cough, and, it may be, vomiting, are the premonitory signs of distemper.If temperature be taken in the rectum or vagina, it will probably be about 103° or 104° Fahr.—the best positive evidence. There will generally be either constipation—more especially if a young dog—or an opposite condition of the evacuations. One well-known M.R.C.V.S. believes that distemper in adult dogs is of very rare occurrence.This is not the author's experience, he having encountered and treated numerous cases when the animals have haddistinctattacks of distemper two, and three times. Like scarlatina, measles, small-pox, etc., in the human subject, once the patient has passed through a well-marked attack of the disease, it is to a great extent "protected," but certainly not immune, to succeeding ones.There is indisputable evidence in support of this statement, even the oldest observers being aware of its truth.Following upon the preliminary symptoms alreadyindicated, there is a profuse discharge from the nasal and ocular openings, at first watery in character, subsequently creamy.The discharge (unless cleaned off) irritates the margin of the eyes, occluding these and the nasal openings.Sometimes the malady remains in this—the so-called simple or catarrhal form—for several days, and then convalescence begins.In the case of coarse-bred dogs (mongrels, etc.) the foregoing is the usual condition of affairs. Bronchial and lung troubles are frequent, and probably more puppies die from the broncho-pneumonia of distemper than from other causes. Bronchitis is indicated by frequent attempts at expectoration, and the so-called "rale," heard within the chest. This sound is due to the air passing through the inflammatory exudate in the tubes. If pleurisy is present, there will, during the earlier stages, be friction or dry rubbing sounds, heard when the ear is placed against the chest wall. It is generally associated with varying degrees of pneumonia, either single or double. Quick breathing—more especially noticeable in the region of the flanks—is the best guide as to its presence for the amateur physician. Dropsy of the chest is not at all an uncommon result of pleuritic inflammation.When consolidation of the lungs has takenplace, their respiratory usefulness becomes materially interfered with, so that, frequently, the animal has to make use of his lips as an auxiliary, the cheeks being inflated in a spasmodic manner. Recovery in this advanced condition of disease is exceedingly rare, though we have known it occur.Pericardial (heart sac) inflammation is not uncommon in distemper, resulting through extension of inflammation from the pleural membranes.A disordered liver is indicated by yellowness of the skin and mucous membranes, this bilious or hepatic form of the complaint being fairly common.A fetid breath and pustular eruption over the belly, and on the skin inside the thighs are commonly observed; in fact, the pustular eruption is the most significant sign one can find.Its presence is at once demonstrative that the animal is affected with what is known to the professional as a specific eruptive fever, which will run a definite course, and no amount of medicinal agents can cut it short.One may control it by good nursing, suitable surroundings, and the judicious use of medicinal agents, but for any man to say that it is within his power to stay its normal progress, would, we opine, be bordering on madness. So much for distemper cures and their curers.Ordinary small-pox vaccine has been employedas a preventative for distemper. Almost everyone knows that when the arm of the human subject is scarified with the lancet, so as to admit the reception of the vaccine into the system, the part becomes inflamed and swollen, the seat of vaccination also showing a vesicle, etc., typical of a mild form of the disease, and if this does not take place the vaccine is said not to have "taken,"i.e., it has done no good.This is exactly what happens when used in the same way upon the dog, there being neither inflammation nor yet other signs, typical of local reaction, therefore it can be no use.The mere fact of the disease never having occurred in a certain dog that has been vaccinated is not the least evidence in support of its utility.Many dogs are very refractory to certain diseases, amongst these being distemper.The Commission of Veterinary Surgeons, appointed to inquire into the utility of Dr Physalix's Vaccine, has convinced the writer that it was a failure from beginning to end, and he advises all dog admirers, Masters of Hounds, etc., to steer clear of its use.There is no doubt that in course of time an anti-toxin, or some other attenuated form of distemper virus will be produced for the cure, or prevention of, this deadly canine malady.Regarding the treatment of distemper, it has been suggested that a dose of castor oil may, with advantage, be given at the outset.The author does not consider this advisable: the oil, owing to its extremely nauseating properties, tends to further weaken the animal by the production of vomition, etc. Moreover, castor oil leaves the bowels in a drier condition than before—an undesirable effect.A soft—not dysenteric—condition of the evacuations is advantageous, much of the poison being got rid by the alimentary canal in this way.A moist condition of the bowels is best maintained by the daily use of some of the natural aperient waters, such as Apenta, Hunyadi-Janos, etc., given in small doses once a day; say, every morning, taking particular care not to go too far.The superiority of these saline aperients to those of oleaginous and other resinous purgatives, is further evidenced by the fact that they also act as febrifuges, lowering the excessive heat, thus diminishing the rapid loss of flesh, so characteristic of this affection.For the husky cough give from one teaspoonful to a tablespoonful of ipecacuanha wine, just as it is. This should induce vomiting, and ought not to be repeated, at least for several days.As a rule, very satisfactory results follow its use.Inhalations of turpentine, eucalyptus, and spirit of camphor, or a little menthol, are exceedingly beneficial.Four teaspoonfuls of each of the three first-named may be mixed together, and then one teaspoonful added to half a pint of boiling water, the dog being made to inhale the steam.Five to ten drops of oil of eucalyptus, mixed with a little fine sugar, and placed inside the mouth night and morning, is good for the catarrhal symptoms of distemper, and the author can, from experience, recommend its employment.When chest complications are marked, the application of mustard paste to the sides will do good.Put the fore and hind limbs through holes cut in a thick piece of woollen blanket, and fasten it over the back. This will keep the chest warm and prevent the mustard from being rubbed off, more especially if a bit of brown paper be interposed.Stimulants are indispensable in distemper, so that bovril, claret, and brandy are required. Brand's Essence is the best for nourishment. Give it in teaspoonful doses every hour. One may add the same quantity of brandy or whisky to it.Bovril is a good stimulant in distemper, but it will certainly make the dog vomit, unless given in very small quantities, so long as the stomachis in an irritable condition, one or two tablespoonfuls each time being quite sufficient.As restoratives, claret and Coca Wine are excellent.When dysenteric symptoms are troublesome, give an injection into the rectum night and morning. Use two to six tablespoonfuls of tepid boiled starch, to which ½ drachm of laudanum, 10 drops of turpentine and 1 drachm of tincture of hamamaledin has been added, injecting the lot, and then keeping the dog very still until the discomfiture of the injection has subsided.In addition to this, from 5 to 15 grains of grey powder may be given, and repeated in the doses first named, daily. If no improvement, give 10 grains of powdered ipecacuanha every 10 hours.To relieve the congested condition of the liver, the use of hot linseed and mustard poultices over the organ will be of service, followed by 10 to 20 grains of sal ammoniac, along with 5 grains of hyposulphite of soda, given in a tablespoonful of water night and morning.Most reliance must be placed upon careful nursing, and if this is properly carried out better may be the issue, though, as already stated, no amount of careful nursing, or use of medicinal agents, will stop the ravages of distemper.Fits are frequent, and another very common result is chorea, or St Vitus' dance, also called the twitch, jumps, etc. For fits, give 20 grains of bromide of potash, and if this does no good, double the dose, and for chorea try a course of Easton's Syrup—in capsules—malt, cod-liver oil, etc. Paralysis is not an uncommon sequel.Dialysed iron—10-drop doses in a tablespoonful of water—is a very satisfactory drug to use so as to restore the weakened constitution, and bring back the appetite after distemper.RABIESAlthough not present in our own country, it is very prevalent in certain provinces in India, etc.The muzzling order and quarantine has been the means of abolishing this deadly malady from England.In ninety-nine per cent. of cases in India, the disease is directly due to animals left to stray from the bazaars and villages.At one time rabies was very prevalent in England, therefore cases of hydrophobia were not infrequent. Moreover other animals (horses, sheep, cattle, deer, etc.) had the malady through having been bitten by a rabid dog.This disease assumes two distinct forms, oneknown as the "furious" and the other "dumb" rabies. One of the earliest indications of rabies is an alteration of the dog's manner. He becomes restless, quarrelsome, and shy, having a strong inclination to wander from home.At first the animal is able to drink, but very shortly he is unable, though evidently willing to do so. A depraved appetite is a singularly constant feature of rabies, gnawing at wood and snapping at imaginary (also real) objects.A rabid dog has no particular inclination to seek objects for revenge; the injuries he inflicts beings agents that he regards as intercepting his onward march.The author had, some years since, considerable experience amongst cases of rabies, and often innocent owners would bring rabid dogs for treatment!!A very characteristic—though we cannot say pathognomonic—sign of rabies, is an alteration in the bark, and this is changed to a semi-bark and howl, easily recognised when heard a second time.A rabid dog generally knows his master until overcome by the fury of the disease.Most dogs succumb within a week after the advent of the first signs of the complaint. From a week to three months may be set down as the minimum and maximum periods for the development (incubation) of rabies, after the doghas been bitten by a rabid animal, or received the virus of the malady into its system, such as might occur through rubbing, licking, etc., upon a mucous surface.There are many other minor signs of rabies, and in the so-called "dumb" form, the most diagnostic one is dropping of the lower jaw, accompanied by a snuffling sound.Although this latter might be confused with paralysis of the lower jaw from injury to the nerve, etc., the history of the case will afford the most reliable guide, when forming an opinion.If rabies is suspected, isolation and destruction should be carried out at once. The speedier the better.Before concluding, the writer wishes to say that the bite of a dog in ordinary health is no more injurious than a wound inflicted by any other means, and that the sooner this stupid fallacy explodes the better for beast and man.To destroy a healthy dog because it happens to have bitten a person is akin to madness.BLOOD-POISONINGThis is almost always due to absorption of septic matter, usually from the seat of a wound or other injury. We have frequently seen it follow a bite from another dog. It is generally fatal. Theskin assumes a bluish tint, and beneath it inflammatory products accumulate, giving, when pressed with the fingers, a crackling sensation.In other instances, abscesses form both internally and externally, sometimes the whole of a limb being infiltrated with pus, etc.Very little can be done.To support the severe depression, give brandy, eggs, and Brand's Essence of Beef. Also 25 grains of salicylate of soda every six hours in a little cold water.RHEUMATISM OR KENNEL LAMENESSMasters of Hounds and Sporting-dog men in particular, are nearly all acquainted with this troublesome complaint.Where dogs are kenneled on damp or low-lying ground, there may we expect to find kennel lameness—a title under which it has been known for many and many a score of years.A previous attack is a predisposing influence to its recurrence.Rheumatism may be either acute or chronic.Although not common in its acute form, the writer has treated dogs that could hardly bear anyone to enter—much less shake—the rooms where they have been kept, the slightest shake causing the dog to howl from the agony of pain so induced.Under these circumstances, the diagnosis of rheumatism becomes a certainty, much more so than in its chronic condition, when confined to a limb, joint, etc.The muscles of the chest—Chest-founder—and the neck, are commonly affected.Stiffness and difficulty in moving—the dog often suddenly howling from pain—are the chief signs. There is not much (if any) swelling in this complaint, as it occurs in the dog.The shifting character of rheumatism is a great aid to diagnosis.Treatment.—Keep dog in a dry and warm kennel.Don't wash, especially in winter.Give soda water to drink.For the chronic manifestation of the affection, administer 5 grains of iodide of potash night and morning.Open bowels with a purgative.If acute, 20 grains of salicylate of soda every eight hours in a tablespoonful of water.Rub the muscles with some stimulating liniment, such as white oil, belladonna, or aconite liniments.Feed on soft food and nurse dog well.Many cases of rheumatism never get any better, the dog remaining a confirmed cripple, though worse in damp weather.
Distemper—Rabies—Blood-Poisoning—Rheumatism or Kennel Lameness
Under the title of "Specific" Ailments, the author deems it advisable to give a brief account of such diseases as distemper, blood-poisoning, rabies or madness, rheumatism, kennel lameness, or chest founder, these complaints having as their cause germs, or micro-organisms; the production of these ailments—in three of them at least—being due to the entrance of minute organisms into the system, the excretions, or poisonous products resulting in the several forms of disease, as named above.
By far the commonest of these specific canine ailments is—
DISTEMPER
This malady is only too well known amongst owners and breeders of sporting dogs, and to its almost constant presence in certain kennels the rearing of puppies is seriously handicapped. It is readily communicable from one dog to another—moreparticularly the young—either by direct or indirect means.
Some kennels are singularly exempt from its presence, whereas others are hardly ever without it.
In the latter case, the disease obviously exists upon the premises, measures for its extinction having been inadequately carried out.
One would hardly credit the multifarious channels through which this canine scourge can be propagated.
Feeding utensils, benches, the hands and clothing of attendants, hampers, collars and chains, bedding, water vessels, by contact of the diseased and healthy, and possibly by wind carrying the dessicated discharges, are all liable to become active agents for the production of the malady.
So varied is distemper in its method of attack, that the most expert professional may ignore its existence. Previous to the development of the symptoms, there is the so-called period of incubation,i.e., the time during which the germs are, as it were, dormant, though in reality they are maturing, the advent of their maturation being the development of the specific lesions designated distemper. By far the commonest manifestation of this horrible canine scourge is that in connection with the mucous membranes lining the eyelids, and upper air passages.
Possibly these are the chief portals for the entrance of the germs, and if the specific poison would only confine its ravages to these regions, the ultimate results would be of a much less serious nature.
No amount of good government will confine the assaults of the germs to positions so readily accessible to amelioration by medicinal applications, bronchial and pneumonic complications being common results, or what is, equally severe, bowels and brain lesions supervene, proving an additional source of depleting an already weakened economy. Masters of Foxhounds and proprietors of other dogs, are, we fear, only too well acquainted with the truth of this statement. The usual period of incubation is from four to fourteen days, and this should be borne in mind, so that any puppies that have been in contact with the disease may be isolated, and their temperatures taken for the next two or three weeks night and morning. The normal temperature is 101° Fahr. or a trifle over; therefore, if the mercury rises above 102° Fahr. in the morning—more particularly so—this is sufficient to warrant the animal's separation from the rest of the puppies.
It has been stated that distemper may exist without any rise of temperature, or even the presence of catarrhal signs, but the author doesnot attach the slightest importance to such statements, and claims an experience equal to that of any other veterinary expert.
If there is no rise of temperature, no prostration, and no catarrhal signs, one may at once conclude that the animal is not affected with distemper.
Dulness, loss of appetite, sneezing, redness, heaviness of the eyes, slight husky cough, and, it may be, vomiting, are the premonitory signs of distemper.
If temperature be taken in the rectum or vagina, it will probably be about 103° or 104° Fahr.—the best positive evidence. There will generally be either constipation—more especially if a young dog—or an opposite condition of the evacuations. One well-known M.R.C.V.S. believes that distemper in adult dogs is of very rare occurrence.
This is not the author's experience, he having encountered and treated numerous cases when the animals have haddistinctattacks of distemper two, and three times. Like scarlatina, measles, small-pox, etc., in the human subject, once the patient has passed through a well-marked attack of the disease, it is to a great extent "protected," but certainly not immune, to succeeding ones.
There is indisputable evidence in support of this statement, even the oldest observers being aware of its truth.
Following upon the preliminary symptoms alreadyindicated, there is a profuse discharge from the nasal and ocular openings, at first watery in character, subsequently creamy.
The discharge (unless cleaned off) irritates the margin of the eyes, occluding these and the nasal openings.
Sometimes the malady remains in this—the so-called simple or catarrhal form—for several days, and then convalescence begins.
In the case of coarse-bred dogs (mongrels, etc.) the foregoing is the usual condition of affairs. Bronchial and lung troubles are frequent, and probably more puppies die from the broncho-pneumonia of distemper than from other causes. Bronchitis is indicated by frequent attempts at expectoration, and the so-called "rale," heard within the chest. This sound is due to the air passing through the inflammatory exudate in the tubes. If pleurisy is present, there will, during the earlier stages, be friction or dry rubbing sounds, heard when the ear is placed against the chest wall. It is generally associated with varying degrees of pneumonia, either single or double. Quick breathing—more especially noticeable in the region of the flanks—is the best guide as to its presence for the amateur physician. Dropsy of the chest is not at all an uncommon result of pleuritic inflammation.
When consolidation of the lungs has takenplace, their respiratory usefulness becomes materially interfered with, so that, frequently, the animal has to make use of his lips as an auxiliary, the cheeks being inflated in a spasmodic manner. Recovery in this advanced condition of disease is exceedingly rare, though we have known it occur.
Pericardial (heart sac) inflammation is not uncommon in distemper, resulting through extension of inflammation from the pleural membranes.
A disordered liver is indicated by yellowness of the skin and mucous membranes, this bilious or hepatic form of the complaint being fairly common.
A fetid breath and pustular eruption over the belly, and on the skin inside the thighs are commonly observed; in fact, the pustular eruption is the most significant sign one can find.
Its presence is at once demonstrative that the animal is affected with what is known to the professional as a specific eruptive fever, which will run a definite course, and no amount of medicinal agents can cut it short.
One may control it by good nursing, suitable surroundings, and the judicious use of medicinal agents, but for any man to say that it is within his power to stay its normal progress, would, we opine, be bordering on madness. So much for distemper cures and their curers.
Ordinary small-pox vaccine has been employedas a preventative for distemper. Almost everyone knows that when the arm of the human subject is scarified with the lancet, so as to admit the reception of the vaccine into the system, the part becomes inflamed and swollen, the seat of vaccination also showing a vesicle, etc., typical of a mild form of the disease, and if this does not take place the vaccine is said not to have "taken,"i.e., it has done no good.
This is exactly what happens when used in the same way upon the dog, there being neither inflammation nor yet other signs, typical of local reaction, therefore it can be no use.
The mere fact of the disease never having occurred in a certain dog that has been vaccinated is not the least evidence in support of its utility.
Many dogs are very refractory to certain diseases, amongst these being distemper.
The Commission of Veterinary Surgeons, appointed to inquire into the utility of Dr Physalix's Vaccine, has convinced the writer that it was a failure from beginning to end, and he advises all dog admirers, Masters of Hounds, etc., to steer clear of its use.
There is no doubt that in course of time an anti-toxin, or some other attenuated form of distemper virus will be produced for the cure, or prevention of, this deadly canine malady.
Regarding the treatment of distemper, it has been suggested that a dose of castor oil may, with advantage, be given at the outset.
The author does not consider this advisable: the oil, owing to its extremely nauseating properties, tends to further weaken the animal by the production of vomition, etc. Moreover, castor oil leaves the bowels in a drier condition than before—an undesirable effect.
A soft—not dysenteric—condition of the evacuations is advantageous, much of the poison being got rid by the alimentary canal in this way.
A moist condition of the bowels is best maintained by the daily use of some of the natural aperient waters, such as Apenta, Hunyadi-Janos, etc., given in small doses once a day; say, every morning, taking particular care not to go too far.
The superiority of these saline aperients to those of oleaginous and other resinous purgatives, is further evidenced by the fact that they also act as febrifuges, lowering the excessive heat, thus diminishing the rapid loss of flesh, so characteristic of this affection.
For the husky cough give from one teaspoonful to a tablespoonful of ipecacuanha wine, just as it is. This should induce vomiting, and ought not to be repeated, at least for several days.
As a rule, very satisfactory results follow its use.Inhalations of turpentine, eucalyptus, and spirit of camphor, or a little menthol, are exceedingly beneficial.
Four teaspoonfuls of each of the three first-named may be mixed together, and then one teaspoonful added to half a pint of boiling water, the dog being made to inhale the steam.
Five to ten drops of oil of eucalyptus, mixed with a little fine sugar, and placed inside the mouth night and morning, is good for the catarrhal symptoms of distemper, and the author can, from experience, recommend its employment.
When chest complications are marked, the application of mustard paste to the sides will do good.
Put the fore and hind limbs through holes cut in a thick piece of woollen blanket, and fasten it over the back. This will keep the chest warm and prevent the mustard from being rubbed off, more especially if a bit of brown paper be interposed.
Stimulants are indispensable in distemper, so that bovril, claret, and brandy are required. Brand's Essence is the best for nourishment. Give it in teaspoonful doses every hour. One may add the same quantity of brandy or whisky to it.
Bovril is a good stimulant in distemper, but it will certainly make the dog vomit, unless given in very small quantities, so long as the stomachis in an irritable condition, one or two tablespoonfuls each time being quite sufficient.
As restoratives, claret and Coca Wine are excellent.
When dysenteric symptoms are troublesome, give an injection into the rectum night and morning. Use two to six tablespoonfuls of tepid boiled starch, to which ½ drachm of laudanum, 10 drops of turpentine and 1 drachm of tincture of hamamaledin has been added, injecting the lot, and then keeping the dog very still until the discomfiture of the injection has subsided.
In addition to this, from 5 to 15 grains of grey powder may be given, and repeated in the doses first named, daily. If no improvement, give 10 grains of powdered ipecacuanha every 10 hours.
To relieve the congested condition of the liver, the use of hot linseed and mustard poultices over the organ will be of service, followed by 10 to 20 grains of sal ammoniac, along with 5 grains of hyposulphite of soda, given in a tablespoonful of water night and morning.
Most reliance must be placed upon careful nursing, and if this is properly carried out better may be the issue, though, as already stated, no amount of careful nursing, or use of medicinal agents, will stop the ravages of distemper.
Fits are frequent, and another very common result is chorea, or St Vitus' dance, also called the twitch, jumps, etc. For fits, give 20 grains of bromide of potash, and if this does no good, double the dose, and for chorea try a course of Easton's Syrup—in capsules—malt, cod-liver oil, etc. Paralysis is not an uncommon sequel.
Dialysed iron—10-drop doses in a tablespoonful of water—is a very satisfactory drug to use so as to restore the weakened constitution, and bring back the appetite after distemper.
RABIES
Although not present in our own country, it is very prevalent in certain provinces in India, etc.
The muzzling order and quarantine has been the means of abolishing this deadly malady from England.
In ninety-nine per cent. of cases in India, the disease is directly due to animals left to stray from the bazaars and villages.
At one time rabies was very prevalent in England, therefore cases of hydrophobia were not infrequent. Moreover other animals (horses, sheep, cattle, deer, etc.) had the malady through having been bitten by a rabid dog.
This disease assumes two distinct forms, oneknown as the "furious" and the other "dumb" rabies. One of the earliest indications of rabies is an alteration of the dog's manner. He becomes restless, quarrelsome, and shy, having a strong inclination to wander from home.
At first the animal is able to drink, but very shortly he is unable, though evidently willing to do so. A depraved appetite is a singularly constant feature of rabies, gnawing at wood and snapping at imaginary (also real) objects.
A rabid dog has no particular inclination to seek objects for revenge; the injuries he inflicts beings agents that he regards as intercepting his onward march.
The author had, some years since, considerable experience amongst cases of rabies, and often innocent owners would bring rabid dogs for treatment!!
A very characteristic—though we cannot say pathognomonic—sign of rabies, is an alteration in the bark, and this is changed to a semi-bark and howl, easily recognised when heard a second time.
A rabid dog generally knows his master until overcome by the fury of the disease.
Most dogs succumb within a week after the advent of the first signs of the complaint. From a week to three months may be set down as the minimum and maximum periods for the development (incubation) of rabies, after the doghas been bitten by a rabid animal, or received the virus of the malady into its system, such as might occur through rubbing, licking, etc., upon a mucous surface.
There are many other minor signs of rabies, and in the so-called "dumb" form, the most diagnostic one is dropping of the lower jaw, accompanied by a snuffling sound.
Although this latter might be confused with paralysis of the lower jaw from injury to the nerve, etc., the history of the case will afford the most reliable guide, when forming an opinion.
If rabies is suspected, isolation and destruction should be carried out at once. The speedier the better.
Before concluding, the writer wishes to say that the bite of a dog in ordinary health is no more injurious than a wound inflicted by any other means, and that the sooner this stupid fallacy explodes the better for beast and man.
To destroy a healthy dog because it happens to have bitten a person is akin to madness.
BLOOD-POISONING
This is almost always due to absorption of septic matter, usually from the seat of a wound or other injury. We have frequently seen it follow a bite from another dog. It is generally fatal. Theskin assumes a bluish tint, and beneath it inflammatory products accumulate, giving, when pressed with the fingers, a crackling sensation.
In other instances, abscesses form both internally and externally, sometimes the whole of a limb being infiltrated with pus, etc.
Very little can be done.
To support the severe depression, give brandy, eggs, and Brand's Essence of Beef. Also 25 grains of salicylate of soda every six hours in a little cold water.
RHEUMATISM OR KENNEL LAMENESS
Masters of Hounds and Sporting-dog men in particular, are nearly all acquainted with this troublesome complaint.
Where dogs are kenneled on damp or low-lying ground, there may we expect to find kennel lameness—a title under which it has been known for many and many a score of years.
A previous attack is a predisposing influence to its recurrence.
Rheumatism may be either acute or chronic.
Although not common in its acute form, the writer has treated dogs that could hardly bear anyone to enter—much less shake—the rooms where they have been kept, the slightest shake causing the dog to howl from the agony of pain so induced.
Under these circumstances, the diagnosis of rheumatism becomes a certainty, much more so than in its chronic condition, when confined to a limb, joint, etc.
The muscles of the chest—Chest-founder—and the neck, are commonly affected.
Stiffness and difficulty in moving—the dog often suddenly howling from pain—are the chief signs. There is not much (if any) swelling in this complaint, as it occurs in the dog.
The shifting character of rheumatism is a great aid to diagnosis.
Treatment.—Keep dog in a dry and warm kennel.
Don't wash, especially in winter.
Give soda water to drink.
For the chronic manifestation of the affection, administer 5 grains of iodide of potash night and morning.
Open bowels with a purgative.
If acute, 20 grains of salicylate of soda every eight hours in a tablespoonful of water.
Rub the muscles with some stimulating liniment, such as white oil, belladonna, or aconite liniments.
Feed on soft food and nurse dog well.
Many cases of rheumatism never get any better, the dog remaining a confirmed cripple, though worse in damp weather.