Hydrogen peroxide and sodium perborate.—Sponge with clear water and then with a solution of 1 teaspoon sodium perborate to 1 pint hydrogen peroxide. If the stain still shows, sprinkle powdered sodium perborate on the stain and let stand half an hour. Rinse well with clear water. Always test for change of color on a sample of the cloth before using these bleaches.
Hydrosulfite.—Hydrosulfites available at drug stores as dye removers are satisfactory in removing grass stains from any white materials. Follow directions on the package.
Benzene or denatured alcohol.—On materials that soap and water might injure, sponge the stains with benzene or alcohol. Test them first to be sure they do not change the color of the material. Do not use alcohol on acetate rayon or vinyon unless you dilute it—1 cup denatured alcohol with 2 cups water.
Fresh grease spots usually are the pure fat or oil. Old grease spots or stains from automobile, wheel, or machine greases usually contain also more or less dust, dirt, or fine bits of metal. (For road oil and axle grease, seep. 27.) First scrape or wipe off as much of the grease as possible; then treat the stain by one of the following methods:
Soap and water.—If the material is washable, wash in warm sudsy water. Be sure to use plenty of soap on the stained part and rub well between the hands. The soaplike washing agents (soapless shampoos, oils, and lathers) are good to soften grease stains.
Place a grease or oil stain between paper towels or cleansing tissues and press with a warm iron.
Place a grease or oil stain between paper towels or cleansing tissues and press with a warm iron.
Absorbents.—Use cornstarch, French chalk, or white talcum powder for fine materials; corn meal or salt for carpets, rugs, and other coarse materials.Dust the powder or salt over the spot, let stand until it absorbs the grease or oil, then brush off. Another method is to place the stained part between blotting papers and press lightly with a warm iron. Change the blotting paper as it becomes soiled. Or use cleansing tissues or paper towels in the same way. The advantage of using absorbents is that they do not wet the material or leave rings as water or grease solvents are apt to do.
Grease solvents.—Remove common grease and oils with carbon tetrachloride, gasoline, or benzene. Place a pad of clean cloth or a white blotter beneath the stain and sponge with a clean cloth, moistened with the grease solvent. Work from the wrong side of the material in order to push the dirt and grease out rather than to rub it into the material. Use light, brushing motions, work from the outside of the spot toward the center and spread or “feather out” the solvent into the cloth around the stain until there is no definite edge. Then pat dry with a clean, dry cloth.
If the grease spot contains dirt or fine bits of metal, first loosen the stain by rubbing a little lard, petroleum jelly, or dry-cleaning soap into it. Then sponge with the grease solvent or dip the stain into a small bowl of the solvent.
Another method is to make a paste by mixing cornstarch or talcum with carbon tetrachloride or other dry-cleaning fluid. Spread the paste over the spot; when dry brush it off. Repeat if necessary. The solvent does not spread and is less likely to form a ring if used in this way.
Ice cream stains contain milk or cream, sugar, sometimes egg, and often coloring. If after trying the following methods, a fruit or chocolate stain remains, follow instructions under Fruits and Berries,page 15, or under Chocolate and Cocoa,page 13.
Cold or lukewarm water.—If the material is washable and the stain contains no highly colored fruit or chocolate, sponge with cold or lukewarm water; then wash in warm soapsuds.
Carbon tetrachloride.—For nonwashable materials, sponge with carbon tetrachloride to remove the greasy part of the stain. Let it dry; then sponge with cold water to remove any stains from the egg and sugar in the ice cream. If this does not remove the stain completely, follow with a pepsin treatment.
Pepsin.—First sponge the stain with cold water, then sprinkle pepsin on the dampened stain, and let it stand half an hour. Brush it off and rinse the spot well. For best results, be sure the material is free from soap or other alkali before applying the pepsin.
Because inks differ in composition, it is impossible to find removers that are equally effective for all types of ink spots. Each of the methods mentioned below is satisfactory with some type of ink. For most ink spots, it is necessary to try several methods, beginning always with the simplest and that least likely to harm the cloth.
Denatured alcohol, carbon tetrachloride, and benzene.—Place a pad of cloth or blotter under the stain and sponge with one of these solvents. Then rub glycerine (use glycerine only with alcohol) or a dry-cleaning soap into the stain and finally rinse out with the solvent. If this does not remove the stain, let the stain dry; then wet with water and rub in a synthetic detergent (nonsoap cleaner) to help soften the stain. Or use strong soapsuds to which a few drops of ammonia water have been added. Alcohol must not be used on acetate rayon or colored materials.
Use one of the following agents for removing printing-ink stains:
Lard or petroleum jelly.—Rub the stain with lard or petroleum jelly; work it into the cloth. If material is washable, wash with soap and water; otherwise sponge with carbon tetrachloride, gasoline, or other grease solvent.
Turpentine.—Soak the stain for a few minutes in turpentine and then sponge with carbon tetrachloride, alcohol, or other dry-cleaning fluid. Do not use alcohol on acetate rayon or colored materials.
Kerosene.—To remove printing from flour bags and other bags, soak in kerosene for several hours. Then wash thoroughly in soap and hot water and spread on the grass in the sun to dry.
In removing writing-ink stains it usually is necessary to try various methods. Always start with the simplest method and the one least likely to harm the cloth.
Absorbents.—If the stain is still wet, spread corn meal, salt, French chalk, cornstarch, or talcum powder on the stain to remove any excess ink and to keep it from spreading. Work the powder into the stain. Shake it off as it becomes soiled and repeat the process. When the dry absorbent fails to take up more ink, make the absorbent into a paste with water or with a mixture of 1 part water and 1 part alcohol and apply again. Let dry and brush off.
Glycerine and water or soap and water.—If the material is washable, pour either glycerine or one of the soapless shampoos on the fresh stain. Rub lightly between the hands, rinse, and apply glycerine again as long as any ink comes from the stain. Rinse with clear water. Washing with soap and warm water will remove some types of ink.
Bleaches.—If the above treatments do not remove the stain, try a bleach. But use bleaches sparingly on colored materials.
Oxalic acid.—Soak the stain for a few seconds in a solution of oxalic acid (3 tablespoons of the crystals of the acid to a pint of water). Or sponge the stain well with cold water, then stretch the stain over a bowl of hot water, and apply crystals of oxalic acid directly to the stain. Rinse by dipping in the hot water and finally in water to which a few drops of ammonia water have been added. Do not use on weighted silk.
Hydrosulfite.—Sponge with a hydrosulfite solution and rinse quickly.
Soap and water.—If the material is washable, soap and water will often remove a fresh stain. Or moisten with water and place either in the sun, over a warm radiator, or hold in the steam from a boiling teakettle.
Denatured alcohol.—On materials that water would injure, sponge with alcohol. On acetate rayon and colored materials be sure to dilute the alcohol—1 cup denatured alcohol to 2 cups water.
Sodium thiosulfate (“hypo”).—Sponge the stain or dip in a solution of 1 tablespoon of the “hypo” to 1 pint of water. Rinse well in water.
Use any of the methods given below to remove iron-rust stains from white materials. Test remover on sample of cloth before using on colored materials.
Lemon juice.—Spread the stain over a pan of boiling water and then squeeze lemon juice on it. After a few minutes rinse; then repeat the process. This method is rather slow, but does not harm delicate white cottons or linens. Another method is to sprinkle the stain with salt, squeeze lemon juice on it, and spread in the sun to dry. Add more lemon juice if the stain still shows. Rinse well.
Oxalic acid.—Spread the stained article over a bowl of hot water and apply a few drops of oxalic acid solution (3 tablespoons of the crystals to 1 pint of water). Or put the crystals of acid directly on the stain and moisten with hot water. Rinse in hot water, and repeat until the stain disappears. Do not use on weighted silk.
Cream of tartar.—Boil the stained article in a liquid made up of 4 teaspoons of cream of tartar to 1 pint of water. Rinse thoroughly.
Hydrosulfite.—Hydrosulfites available at drug stores as color removers or dye-stripping agents also will remove rust stains. Follow directions given on the package. Do not use on weighted silks.
Sponge with carbon tetrachloride or benzene. Treat as for cod-liver oil stains.
Petroleum jelly and carbon tetrachloride.—If water spots the cloth, work petroleum jelly or lard into the stain. Then either sponge with carbon tetrachloride or dip the stained part in a bowl of the solvent. If a trace of color remains, sponge with denatured alcohol. On acetate rayon and colored materials, dilute the alcohol—1 cup of denatured alcohol to 2 cups water.
Glycerine, soap, and water.—If the material is washable, first loosen the stain as above with glycerine or petroleum jelly. Then launder. If soap or other alkalies are applied before the stain is loosened, they are apt to set it.
Hydrogen peroxide and sodium perborate.—Sponge with sodium perborate-hydrogen peroxide mixture (1 teaspoon sodium perborate to 1 pint peroxide). Rinse thoroughly. If the stain persists, sprinkle powdered sodium perborate on the dampened area and let stand for half an hour. Finally rinse well. Be sure to test the cloth for colorfastness before using these bleaches.
Sponge meat-juice or gravy stains with cold or lukewarm water. Never use hot water; it sets the stain. If a grease spot remains, launder washable materials in warm soapy water. If the cloth is not washable, use an absorbent powder or a grease solvent.
Absorbents.—Dust the powder over the stain, let it stand until it absorbs the grease, then brush off.
Solvents.—Sponge with carbon tetrachloride, gasoline, or benzene.
Because of the great number and variety of substances used in medicines, it is not possible to give methods for removing all such stains. If you know what the medicine is made of, it will aid in choosing the remover. For instance, a tarry or gummy medicine can be treated in the same way as a tar spot (seep. 27); a medicine containing much iron can be removed in the same way as iron rust (seep. 20). Medicines in a sugar sirup usually can be washed out with water; those dissolved in alcohol sometimes can be removed by sponging the stain with alcohol. Many of the medicines used in swabbing sore throats contain silver nitrate and should be sponged with a solution of sodium thiosulfate (“hypo”)—1 teaspoon of the crystals in 1 cup of water.
If you cannot find out what kind of medicine caused the stain, you may have to try several methods to find one that will do the job. Each of the following methods will remove certain medicine stains.
Boiling water.—For washable materials, pour boiling water on the stain from a height of 3 or 4 feet, as for fruit stains, or launder in warm soapy water.
Denatured alcohol or carbon tetrachloride.—Some color stains can be sponged or soaked out with alcohol. Sponge greasy stains with carbon tetrachloride. A dry-cleaning soap helps to loosen them. Finally sponge with fresh carbon tetrachloride.
Bleaches.—Use bleaches only on white materials. Try one of the following:
Hydrosulfite.—Use one of the hydrosulfite dye-stripping agents available at drug stores. Follow instructions on the package.
Javelle water.—For stains on linen, cotton, or rayon, dip in Javelle water for 1 minute (no longer), remove the chlorine from the cloth with a sodium thiosulfate solution, rinse well in water. (Seep. 6for more detailed instructions.) Do not use Javelle water on silk or wool.
Mercurochrome stains are very hard to remove unless you treat them promptly. Proceed as follows:
Denatured alcohol, glycerine, and laundering.—First sponge the stain well with a liquid made of equal parts of alcohol and water. (On acetate rayon and colored materials use 1 part alcohol and 2 parts water). Next work glycerine into the cloth to help loosen the stain, and continue using as long as any color bleeds from the stain. Then wash well in soapsuds, and rinse with water to which a few drops of ammonia water have been added.
Acetic acid.—If a stain remains after the above treatment, apply 10-percent acetic acid with a medicine dropper; then rinse well in water.
Bleaches.—If the above treatments do not completely remove the stain, use a bleach.
Javelle water.—For stains on uncolored linen, cotton, or rayon, dip in Javelle water for 1 minute (no longer), remove the chlorine from the cloth with a sodium thiosulfate solution, rinse well in water. (Seep. 6for more detailed instructions.) Do not use Javelle water on silk or wool.
Sodium perborate.—Sponge with a sodium perborate solution (4 tablespoons of the perborate in a pint of lukewarm water) or dampen the stain with water and dust the powdered sodium perborate on it. Rinse thoroughly. Always test for the effect on the color of the cloth before using bleaches.
Sodium hydrosulfite.—This color remover is available at drug stores. It may be used safely on most white materials. Follow directions on the package.
The tarnish of copper, brass, tin, and other metals often stains textiles. To remove, apply vinegar, lemon juice, or a 10-percent solution of acetic acid. Rinse well as soon as the stain has dissolved. Do not use chlorine bleaches or sodium perborate to remove these stains.
Mercury or quicksilver removes lead or solder stains from rugs or clothing. First scrape off as much of the lead as possible with a dull knife. Then pour mercury on the stain and work with a stick until the mercury absorbs the stains.
Mildew spots must be treated when fresh, before the mold growth has a chance to weaken the cloth.
Soap and water.—On washable material, soap and water will remove very fresh stains. Drying on the grass in the sun helps to bleach the spots.
Bleaches.—Try a bleaching agent if soap and water do not remove the stain. Be sure to test for colorfastness on a hidden part of the garment.
Lemon juice.—Moisten the stain with lemon juice and salt and place in the sun. This often removes slight stains.
Javelle water.—Old stains on cotton, linen, or rayon may be bleached out with Javelle water. Dip the stain in the Javelle water for 1 minute (no longer), remove the chlorine from the cloth with a sodium thiosulphate solution, rinse well in water. (Seep. 6for more detailed instructions.) Do not use Javelle water on silk or wool.
Sodium perborate.—Soak the stain in a sodium perborate solution (4 tablespoons perborate to 1 pint lukewarm water). Or dampen the stain with water and sprinkle the perborate powder directly on the stain. Rinse after either treatment.
See Ice Cream,p. 18.
Follow instructions given under Fingernail Polish,page 15.
Soak in lukewarm salt water (about 2 cups salt to 1 gallon water) or in weak ammonia water (2 tablespoons ammonia water to each gallon water). Rinse well with cold water and launder as usual.
Let the mud stain dry, then brush well. Sponge with clear water, or use soap and water if it will not harm the cloth. Sponging with alcohol will help to remove the last traces of the stain. On colored materials and acetate rayon dilute the alcohol—1 cup denatured alcohol to 2 cups water.
Glycerine and soap and water.—If the material is washable, work glycerine into the stain, rub lightly between the hands, and then wash the article in soap and water.
Denatured alcohol.—If water spots the cloth, sponge the stain with alcohol. Since alcohol makes some colors run, test a sample of the cloth to be sure it does not harm the color. On acetate rayon sponge with dilute alcohol—1 cup denatured alcohol to 2 cups water.
Bleaches.—Try one of the following, but use sparingly on colored materials and do not use on weighted silks.
Hydrosulfite.—Sponge with a hydrosulfite solution (2 teaspoons in 1 pint of warm water) and rinse quickly.
Oxalic acid.—Apply oxalic acid solution with a medicine dropper (seep. 7) and rinse well with clear water. Sponge with weak ammonia water, borax or sodium perborate solution, to neutralize the acid.
Treat oil paint, varnish, and enamel stains quickly, since a dried or hardened paint stain is almost impossible to remove. Scrape off as much of the paint or varnish as possible before using any remover. If the stain has hardened, apply a solvent on both sides and give time for it to soften. Do not rub too hard; rubbing roughens the cloth. Use one of the following methods:
Soap and water.—If the material is washable, remove fresh stains by washing with plenty of soap. If the stain has dried, soften it first by rubbing oil, lard, or petroleum jelly into it.
Turpentine or other solvents.—Sponge the stain with pure turpentine or, if the spots are large or scattered, wash the whole article in it. Or soak in a liquid of equal parts ammonia water and turpentine, rinse several times in fresh turpentine, wash in soapy water. Carbon tetrachloride, kerosene, alcohol, or benzene may be applied in the same way as turpentine. Benzene is good for the usual type of spar varnish. Alcohol will remove stains of shellac varnish, but never use alcohol on acetate rayon or vinyon.
Paint and varnish remover.—Equal parts of benzene, carbon tetrachloride, and amyl acetate (banana oil) make a very good paint remover. Apply the remover and rub in a dry-cleaning soap to help loosen the stain. Finally rinse out with carbon tetrachloride.
Do not use water on indelible pencil marks as this spreads the dye and makes the stain harder to remove. Use one of the following:
Denatured alcohol.—Soak the stain in alcohol. If carbon marks remain, sponge with soap and water. Do not use alcohol on acetate rayon. Test all dyed cloth for colorfastness.
Bleaches.—Remove the dye with a bleaching agent.
Javelle water.—For stains on uncolored cotton, linen, or rayon, dip in Javelle water for 1 minute (no longer), remove the chlorine from the cloth with a sodium thiosulfate solution, rinse well in water. (Seep. 6for more detailed instructions.) Do not use Javelle water on silk or wool.
Hydrogen peroxide and sodium perborate.—For other materials sponge with a mixture of 1 teaspoon sodium perborate to 1 pint peroxide. Rinse well.
A soft eraser sometimes will remove the marks, especially on stiff or starched materials. If the material is washable, rub soapsuds into the stain and launder as usual. Sponge woolen materials with clear water or with a solution of equal parts alcohol and water.
Perspiration of the body is usually acid, so you can sometimes restore colors changed by a perspiration stain by treating with an alkali. Dampen the stain with water and hold it over the fumes from an open ammonia water bottle. (See Acids,p. 10.) Old stains may be alkaline; then try vinegar. (See Alkalies,p. 11.) However, colors changed by perspiration cannot always be restored, particularly if the stain is an old one.
To remove perspiration odors, sponge the stained part with warm water to which a few drops of vinegar have been added, sprinkle powdered pepsin over the stain, work it well into the cloth, and let stand 1 to 2 hours, keeping the spot moist. Then brush off the powder and rinse well.
Yellowish perspiration stains on white material can be removed by:
Soap and water.—If the material is washable, bleach in the sun after washing in soap and water.
Bleaches.—For a stubborn stain, try a bleach.
Hydrogen peroxide.—Sponge with hydrogen peroxide or a mixture of 1 teaspoon sodium perborate to 1 pint peroxide. Rinse with water.
Sodium hydrosulfite.—Quickly dip the stain into a sodium hydrosulfite solution (2 teaspoons sodium hydrosulfite to 1 pint water). Rinse immediately. First test the colorfastness of the cloth to this bleach.
To remove rubber cement either sponge or dip the cloth in carbon tetrachloride, Stoddard solvent, gasoline, or benzene. If the stain has dried, rub in petroleum jelly or dry-cleaning soap to loosen it. Then apply the carbon tetrachloride or other solvent.
The acid of the vinegar or lemon juice in salad dressings may injure the color of the material. Apply a mild alkali such as baking soda or weak ammonia water immediately to restore the color. (See Acids,p. 10.) Then use one of the following to remove the stain:
Soap and water.—Sponge delicate, washable materials with lukewarm water. Do not use hot water if egg or cream was used in making the salad dressing. Use soap if it will not harm the cloth.
Grease solvents.—Sponge the stain with lukewarm water, let dry, and then sponge with carbon tetrachloride, Stoddard solvent, gasoline, or benzene.
Absorbents.—Absorbent powders are particularly good for splatters of salad oil. Dust cornstarch or talcum powder over the spot, allow it to absorb the oil or grease, then brush off. Or make a thick paste by mixing the powder with carbon tetrachloride or other grease solvent, spread it on the spot, let dry, and brush off. Repeat if necessary. Another method is to put the stained cloth between cleansing tissues and press with a warm iron.
You can usually remove light scorch stains from cotton and linen materials, but wool and silk can seldom be restored to their original condition. Brushing with emery paper may improve wool, however. Try the following:
Soap and water.—If the cloth is washable, soap and water will remove very slight stains. After washing, place the article in the sun for a day or two; it may bleach out any remaining traces of the stain.
Hydrogen peroxide.—If the stained material is white, use hydrogen peroxide. Dampen a white cotton cloth with the peroxide and lay it on the stain. Cover with a clean dry cloth; then press with a medium warm iron. If the hydrogen peroxide soaks through the top cloth, replace with a dry one. Ironing directly on the cloth moistened with peroxide or on the dampened stain itself, after the cloth has been removed, will cause rust stains on the garment. Repeat the treatment, until the stain is completely removed. Rinse well.
Light scorch stains may be removed also by sponging with hydrogen peroxide to which sodium perborate has been added (1 teaspoon sodium perborate to 1 pint peroxide). Rinse well with water.
Soap and water.—If the material is washable, remove fresh stains from one of the paste dressings by sponging or washing thoroughly with plenty of soap. For spots caused by white dressings, sponge first with water, then with soap and water.
Solvents.—Sponge well with carbon tetrachloride or turpentine. Glycerine, lard, or petroleum jelly worked into the stain first helps to loosen it. For liquid dressings and for stains on wool, sponge with denatured alcohol. Do not use alcohol on acetate rayon or colored cloth.
Bleaches.—If a dye stain remains, remove with a bleaching agent.
Hydrosulfite.—Apply one of the hydrosulfites available at drug stores as a color remover. Follow directions on the package.
Hydrogen peroxide or sodium perborate.—Sponge the stain with hydrogen peroxide or with a sodium perborate solution (p. 7) or sprinkle sodium perborate powder on the moistened stain directly. Rinse well.
Ironing material from which the soap has not been well rinsed may cause a stain much like iron rust. Washing with soap and water usually removes it. Be sure to rinse well. Bleaching in the sun afterwards is sometimes helpful.
Absorbents with solvents.—First brush the stain; then sprinkle with an absorbent powder—French chalk, cornstarch, corn meal, or salt. Work thepowder around until soiled and brush it off. Then if the material is washable, sponge or wash with soap and water. If water harms the cloth, first use an absorbent; then sponge the stain with one of the grease solvents—carbon tetrachloride, Stoddard solvent, or gasoline.
Another method is to make a paste by mixing an absorbent powder with carbon tetrachloride or other solvent, spread it on the stain, then brush it off when dry.
To remove the odor of smoke from a garment, have it dry-cleaned.
If the material is washable, wash out sugar-sirup stains with soap and water. For more delicate materials, sponge with clean water.
Stains made by tarlike substances are hard to remove, especially from cotton material. First rub in petroleum jelly or lard to soften the stain, then sponge with one of the grease solvents—carbon tetrachloride, Stoddard solvent, gasoline, benzene—or dip the article in the liquid and rub lightly between the hands. Repeat the treatment until the stain is removed. If the material is washable, use warm soapy water after rubbing in the petroleum jelly or lard.
For stains on carpets or rugs, scrape off as much as possible with a dull knife. Then sponge with the grease solvent, using a brushing motion so that you do not rub the stain into the carpet.
Treat stains from the tarry substances in the stem of a pipe in the same way as tar. Use one of the following methods to remove tobacco juice stains:
Cold water and glycerine.—Sponge with cold water; then work warm glycerine into the stain. Let stand for half an hour, and wash with soap and water. If the stain cannot be completely removed by washing, bleach it in the sun. Moistening it with lemon juice makes it disappear more quickly.
Wood or denatured alcohol.—To remove traces of color remaining on wool materials after the above treatment, sponge with alcohol.
Bleaches.—Try one of the following to remove remaining tobacco stains:
Hydrogen peroxide or sodium perborate.—Sponge with hydrogen peroxide or with sodium perborate solution (4 tablespoons to a pint of water). Or sprinkle powdered sodium perborate on the moistened stain. Rinse thoroughly.
Javelle water.—For stains on cotton or linen, dip the stain in Javelle water for 1 minute (no longer), remove the chlorine from the cloth with a sodium thiosulfate solution, rinse well in water. (Seep. 6for more detailed instructions.) Do not use Javelle water on silk or wool materials. Be sure to test the cloth for colorfastness before applying this bleach.
Cold water and glycerine.—Sponge the stain thoroughly with cold water to remove all the loose foodstuff. Next work glycerine into the stain, and let stand for half an hour. Then wash with soap and water.
Hydrogen peroxide or sodium perborate.—Remove any remaining stain by sponging with hydrogen peroxide or with sodium perborate solution (4 tablespoons to 1 pint of water). Sponge or rinse with cold water.
These stains differ so in composition that it is impossible to give methods which will be successful in all cases. If the color of the cloth is not destroyed but only changed, it may be restored. Normal human urine is usually acid, as is also that of all meat-eating animals. Therefore sponge such stains with a weak ammonia or soda solution. (See Acids,p. 10.) If the stain is alkaline, sponge with lemon juice or vinegar. (See Alkalies,p. 11.)
Warm water followed by salt and water.—Sponge with warm water. Warm salt water may be used (about ½ cup salt to 1 quart water). Apply and let stand 15 minutes; then sponge with clear water.
Hydrogen peroxide or sodium perborate.—Apply a few drops of hydrogen peroxide (seep. 7) or sponge with a mixture of 1 level teaspoon sodium perborate to 1 pint peroxide. Powdered sodium perborate may be sprinkled on the dampened stain. Rinse thoroughly in water.
Soap solution.—Boil washable materials in soapy water (a half-inch cube of laundry soap to each cup of water). This will completely remove fresh stains on cotton or linen. If this treatment leaves a gray color, as it sometimes does with an old stain, treat with Javelle water as follows:
Javelle water.—Mix Javelle water with an equal amount of hot water. Soak the stained place for 1½ hours in this solution, and rinse thoroughly. Then treat with oxalic acid solution (1 teaspoon oxalic acid to 1 pint water), and rinse again. This will remove a week-old stain and will not seriously injure the material. Soaking the stain in Javelle water of full strength, however, rots the material. Do not use Javelle water on silk or wool.
Some silks, rayons, and wools are spotted by water. To remove such spots, dampen the entire material evenly, either by sponging with clean water or by shaking in the steam from a briskly boiling teakettle. Then press it while still damp. Scratching with the fingernail or a stiff brush or rubbing the cloth between the hands will sometimes remove the spot.
If the material is washable, laundering in warm soap and water will remove these spots. For nonwashable materials, sponge with warm water, let dry, then sponge with a grease solvent—carbon tetrachloride, gasoline, or benzene.
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* U. S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1955 O-337590
For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, U. S. Government Printing OfficeWashington 25, D. C.—Price 15 cents