GUILDFORD

“To moated Lichfield’s lofty pile;And there, beneath the southern aisle,A tomb, with Gothic sculpture fair,Did long Lord Marmion’s image bear,(Now vainly for its sight you look;’Twas levelled when fanatic BrookThe fair cathedral stormed and took;But thanks to Heaven and good St. Chad,A guerdon meet the spoilers had!)”

The interior is of modest dimensions, and is elaborately decorated, the richly carved capitals, &c., giving us indications of how gorgeous it must all have been before it was looted. An interesting feature is the slight inclination of the choir northward from the axis of the nave, which is said to be symbolic of the inclination of Christ’s head on the cross after death. At Troyes and at Quimper in France there is the same deviation in orientation and the same poetic explanation, but investigation reveals that it was caused by a change in the street line in the first instance, and in the other by the annexation of an existing chapel standing slightly north of the true axis.

LADY CHAPEL, LICHFIELD CATHEDRALLADY CHAPEL, LICHFIELD CATHEDRAL

Excellent example of Renaissance colouring, freer from applied paint than then customary. This glass was brought from Belgium

Practically all of the ancient glass which originally adorned the embrasures has been destroyed; the north window of the north transept has some Early English work much restored, and on the east of the south portal of the south transept is a short lower window, in the central lancet of which is a richly dressed female figure with arms thrown about a cross. Just before entering the Lady chapel we remark two small three-lanceted windows, one on each hand, the one to the left having donors on each side, and in the middle St. Christopher carrying the infant Jesus. But it is to the seven most easterly windows of the Lady chapel that we must repair tosee the famous Flemish glass, brought here in 1803, which is the cause of our visit. The dates which appear upon them run from 1534 to 1539, and they were originally made for the Abbey of Herckenrode, near Liége, Belgium, by Lambert Lombard—the earliest and best of those glaziers of the Low Countries who show the Italian influence. All are of three lancets, except the most westerly pair, which have six. The traceries above them are grouped in pyramids of trefoil openings, similar to some in the Lady chapel at Wells. The scenes are taken from the life of Christ, and there are as well portraits of certain benefactors of the Abbey. The composition as well as the grouping of the figures is not so crowded as in the slightly earlier (1527) glazing of King’s College Chapel, Cambridge, or St. Margaret’s, Westminster. The artist drew his personages on such a large scale that it is evident his work was planned for a more spacious interior—this chapel is so narrow that one cannot stand far enough away to get the full effect of the pictures. Although now in the fully developed picture epoch and passed beyond the conventional trammels of the canopy with its imitation stonework, the glazier is not forgetful of what his craft had learned during that period, for he has made agreeable use of architecture, notably as the background for the Last Supper in the east window. Even if the dates were notdisplayed in the usual sixteenth century continental fashion, we would have no difficulty in fixing them, not only because of the obviously Renaissance style of the architecture depicted, but also by reason of the general breadth and style of the treatment. Nor is it difficult to note the effect upon the artist of the Italian influence, coming as it did from a land where abundant sunshine makes it desirable that the illumination of the windows be somewhat reduced by the use of paint. Still, it is only fair to say that these particular windows contain much more than was then customary of glass coloured during the making and not painted afterwards. An excellent impression of the colour effect as a whole can be got if we retire to the central aisle of the nave and look east. Now the sides of the choir become a graceful frame for the three easterly windows. The upper part and the centre show an almost solid expanse of blue, while all the rest of the glass yields a golden grey, forming an excellentensemble.

Before leaving the town, admirers of English literature will do well to visit the house in which Dr. Samuel Johnson was born. It now appropriately serves as a museum wherein are exposed a number of manuscripts, pictures, and familiar objects in some way related to that great scholar. Although the worthy Doctor said that his fellow townsmenwere “more orthodox in their religion, purer in their language, and politer in their manners than any other town in the Kingdom,” one must be pardoned for takinghisopinion upon manners with a pinch of salt!

In England one is constantly coming upon manifestations only to be observed in a land whose civilisation and habits of life were long ago settled and have continued stable. One of the most interesting of these is the different methods adopted for perpetuating one’s memory by a benevolent act toward the public—making it worth the public’s while to act as trustee for the preservation of the said memory, so to speak! A very charming instance thereof is afforded by the buildings erected in Guildford by Archbishop Abbott in 1619 as a permanent home for ten elderly men and eight elderly women, all presided over by a Master: according to the fashion of the times it was styled Bishop Abbott’s Hospital. Built on North Street in the quadrangular form so reminiscent of an Oxford or Cambridge college, the rich plum-colour which age has lent to the brick needs only the primly demure assistance of the formal flower beds to make the altogether charming enclosure which we see to-day. Entering this tranquil and ancient quadrangle one seems suddenly whisked by somemagic wand far from the twentieth century world outside. The elderly resident of the establishment who escorts one about the premises descants upon each admirable detail in measured phrase that is pleasantly appropriate to the ancient flavour of the scene. One is shown the old dining-room below and the library above, both of which retain their Elizabethan panelling on the walls and the carved overmantels, together with much of the original furniture. The large table in the library is an interesting piece, the lumpy adornment of its legs reminding one of the puffed sleeves and trunk hose then affected by gentlemen, while the rail running along the floor and connecting the legs prevents us from forgetting that rushes then strewed the floor, and that these rails were used to provide a convenient place to put the feet. The most interesting part of the building is the small square chapel which forms the north-east corner of the quadrangle. It is lighted by two large windows dating from the end of the Renaissance period (1621) and contemporary with the chapel they adorn. They are unusually agreeable examples of the day when colour was applied to glass by enamelled painting. The serious technical defect of that method (the tendency of the enamel to peel off) is here noticeable in several spots, but not to such an extent as to impair seriously their decorative value. Of thesetwo ample embrasures, the easterly one is the larger, having five lancets surmounted by elaborate tracery lights, while its neighbour in the north wall has but four lancets with traceries of more modest design. All these lancets contain scenes taken from the life of Jacob, the four to the north show Rachel’s subterfuge to obtain for Jacob the parental blessing that should have been Esau’s, while the five easterly ones set forth Jacob’s dream, and the trick played upon him by Laban in substituting Leah for Rebecca, together with Jacob’s retaliation by marking the cattle. Remark Esau shaking his fist at Jacob for stealing his blessing; the solidity of the stairway in Jacob’s dream; the unusual number of animals shown in all the scenes. There should also be observed the very elaborate treatment of the eastern traceries. An examination of the outside of these windows indicates that they were probably brought from some other edifice, for the wall seems to have been cut away to provide sufficient room for them.

BISHOP ABBOTT’S HOSPITAL, GUILDFORDBISHOP ABBOTT’S HOSPITAL, GUILDFORD

Charming and complete glazing of a small chapel. Renaissance glass coloured by the process of enamelling, often unsatisfactory because bits are apt to peel off

It is not uncommon in England to find the chapel attached to the manor house of an estate used as a parish church for the neighbourhood. This is true of the family chapel at Gatton Park, Surrey, just north of Redhill, off the road leading to London. This chapel stands close to the mansion, and is connected with it by a passage. Finer carved wood than the wainscotting of this small interior is far to seek. The wooden pulpit, too, is of skilful workmanship, and together with the panelling, is said to have come from Germany, and to be the work of Albrecht Dürer; its beauty is certainly due to some great craftsman, if not to this very man. The principal illumination of the narrow edifice is derived from two large windows, one over the altar at the east end and the other of similar size in the south wall; there is none in the north one. Both these embrasures are glazed with Renaissance work of considerable excellence; the one to the east dates from about 1500, and the southerly one from about eighty years later. This latter, as is to be expected, shows a liberal use of enamelpainting, something entirely absent in the earlier one, and each of its three lancets contains a different subject, against elaborate landscape backgrounds. The delicately outlined trees in the extreme distance are drawn upon a white field instead of upon the light blue then used in France. Such architecture as appears in the design is, of course, Renaissance. Across the whole of the easterly window is stretched one large picture, the “Eating of the Passover,” which is pleasantly brightened by the golden staves held by the figures who, with their raiment girded up and their feet shod by sandals, carry out to the full the Mosaic law, “And thus shall ye eat it; with your loins girded, with shoes on your feet and your staff in your hand; and ye shall eat it in haste; it is the Lord’s Passover” (Exodus xii. 2).

When about to leave this beautifully panelled charmingly glazed interior, note the small window in the west wall of the entrance vestibule. It is of a domestic type familiar during the Perpendicular epoch. In the centre are the arms of Henry VII. between two supporters. Across the quarry background are bands slanting from the left down to the right bearing the motto, “Honi soit qui mal y pense.” Some of the quarries show small leaves, and others an H surmounted by a crown. This window is similar in style to those already remarked at Salisbury, in John Halle’s hall, and others maybe seen in many private houses dating from that time.

Although of modest size and possessing but two windows, Gatton Chapel is as delightful a bit of complete Renaissance glazing as one will see in England.

East and west across almost the whole width of Kent run three parallel lines of low hills affording many charming views which, however, are only part of the many beauties of that picturesque county. Upon the easterly end of one of these ridges lies Sevenoaks. Although the present town is by no means an ancient one, it possesses great interest in that just below its edge lies the large estate of Knole Park which, if we may play upon words, is a series of knolls that together with their intersecting glades are shaded by groves of great beeches whose soft green foliage has for many a long day sheltered the herds of deer wandering to and fro beneath them. Upon an eminence of greater size than its fellows stands the ancient dwelling known as “Knole,” a great series of courts and quadrangles combined into an abode of such size that it is said to contain, in addition to its superb state apartments, no fewer than 365 bedrooms. Enclosed within a wide sweeping battlemented wall are charming old-world gardens that nestle about the ancient grey mansion, andsoften by their dainty setting of variegated flowers, green lawns and trees, the fortress-like appearance of its towers and long stretches of stone enclosure. Thanks to a fine combination of patriotism and hospitality so often seen in England, a large portion of this house is (upon payment of a trifling fee) thrown open to the study and appreciation of the public on the afternoons of Thursday and Saturday (2-5), as well as all day Friday (10-5). It is because it can be so conveniently seen by our glass-hunting pilgrim (owing to the generosity of the owners and the fact that it is under an hour by train from Charing Cross, London) that Knole has been selected to illustrate in how decorative a fashion the sixteenth century glazier could spread the gay tints of heraldic story upon his windows. Here can also be remarked one or two other minor manifestations of stained glass at that time. One of these is to be seen in the first stairway up which visitors are conducted. Upon some of its diminutive diamond-shaped panes are enamelled armorial crests, much in vogue at the end of the sixteenth century and the beginning of the following one. On one of these little panes in the chapel of Lullingstone Castle near here appears the date 1612: these on the Knole staircase are of about the same date. This house was long the property of the See of Canterbury; perhaps the pilgrim may have one of the rareopportunities to visit the bedroom so long occupied by Archbishop Cranmer and observe in the upper lights of the bay window the six large ovals containing coats of arms in enamel, bits of which have peeled off, as is so often the case with this method of applying colour. How mystified that worthy ecclesiastic would be to see the modern bathroom which now opens into his old bedroom! While speaking of Canterbury, it is of interest that we are enabled to date one of the Knole towers by the fact that a morsel of glazing high up in the traceries of one window (all that is left of the original equipment) bears a double knot, the insignia of Archbishop Bourchier, thus proving that it is at least as old as his tenancy here (1456-86). But let us come to the main reason for our visit—the Cartoon Gallery. Named after the set of Raphael’s cartoons especially copied for Charles I., and by him presented to the Earl of Dorset to decorate these walls, this long room is brilliantly lighted by a series of windows giving off upon the delightful gardens. This is no place to dwell upon the sumptuous silver furnishings of King James’ bedroom that opens out to the south, nor of the treasures of English portraiture in the rooms through which we have come to this gallery. We are here to enjoy the work of the glazier who set upon the windows the arms of the great houses allied to this oneby marriage. One after another they unfold themselves all along the upper lights of this series of embrasures, and tell their story in a far more brilliant manner than can ever be attained by any musty tome on genealogy. This estate was more than once the property of the Crown, and an evidence of one of these periods is provided by the appearance on some of the westerly windows of the arms of certain Law Officers of the Crown, such as the Lord Chief Justice, Attorney-General, Chief Baron of the Exchequer, Master of the Requests, Judge of Admiralty, &c. These are somewhat earlier than those first mentioned and are freer from the unfortunate enamel painting.

Taking into consideration the dimensions of this superb apartment, and the paintings and glass that adorn it, together with the pleasing outlook upon the gardens below, it is doubtful if a more impressive gallery is to be found in any of the stately homes of England.

The chapel, which was built by Archbishop Cranmer, has an unpleasantly smeared east window, but upon its surface high up are a series of Apostles done in grey and stain which, if brought down to the level for which they were originally intended, would show themselves to be very attractive. At the south end of the little gallery used as the “Family Pew” are a group of about a dozen scenes in greyand stain of excellent execution, and so placed as to permit of a satisfactory examination of this agreeable form of Renaissance glass-painting.

If one be travelling by bicycle or automobile, a pleasant addition to this trip may be made, on the way back to London, by taking one smalldétourof about ten miles to visit Nettlestead, and another of about three to West Wickham Church. The glass at both these places is Perpendicular, but not of sufficient importance to have made them stations on that tour. However, they can be so conveniently seen at this stage of our rambles that they are here duly mentioned. It is only recently that, thanks to the skilful heraldic researches of W. E. Ball, LL.D., the date of the Nettlestead windows has been discovered, as well as the significance of the many coats of arms scattered over them. Recent restoration has made complete the glazing of the entire north side and also of the east window. Note the narrow one at the north of the small chancel—quarry background with a large figure standing on a bracket, very reminiscent of sundry prototypes at St. Neot in Cornwall. The other windows on this side (except the westmost) are rich, almost florid examples of the elaborated canopy style. Indeed, so deep are the tones that one is tempted to suspect that some Frenchman had a hand in their manufacture. Thesmaller chancel light just noted is much lower in colour and therefore more typical of the then prevailing English taste. This is also true of the westmost or “Becket window,” as it is called, because it shows scenes from that martyr’s life. The south windows retain their original glass only in the tracery lights, but it is planned to reglaze them as nearly as possible like those on the north side. Nettlestead Church is not easily noticed from the road because of some farm buildings and an orchard which mask it.

If, when we resume our journey Londonward, it be decided to take a peep at the West Wickham glass, one should be careful not to overshoot the church, for it lies at least a half-mile nearer the London road than does the village whose name it bears. The embrasures on the north and east of a chapel opening off the chancel contain examples of a saint standing on a bracket against a quarry background, which we have just observed in the Nettlestead chancel light and also on a former tour at St. Neot. The quarries here each bear the monogram “I.H.S.” in stain. The supports below the brackets are shorter than is customary. What painstaking care was used in the manufacture of these windows is revealed by an examination of the central one on the north side, bearing the familiar figure of St. Christopher carrying the infant Jesus.Notice that the little pool of water in which he stands contains small golden fishes; also remark the careful leading of the three tiny red trees in the background. This very attention to detail noticeable in all the panels has much to do with the satisfactory effect of these windows.

(84 miles from London) Salisbury—125—Canterbury—180—Lincoln—135 —York (197 miles to London)

(197 miles from London) York—84—Norbury—62—Shrewsbury—29—Ludlow—24 —Hereford—28—Tewkesbury—4—Deerhurst—42—Bristol—20—Wells—63 —Exeter—130—Dorchester—12—Oxford (54 miles to London)

(54 miles from London) Oxford—27—Fairford—8—Cirencester—17—Gloucester—27—Great Malvern—2—Little Malvern—20—Ross—60—Warwick—10—Coventry—128—York (197 miles to London)

Salisbury (84 miles from London)Winchester (68 miles from London)St. Neot (257 miles from London)

London—53—Cambridge—103—Lichfield—41—Shrewsbury (154 miles to London)

(28 miles from London) Guildford—23—Gatton—20—Knole (24 miles to London)

Miles fromLondonPage119BristolDecorated10753CambridgeRenaissance22356CanterburyEarly English3652CharthamDecorated4990CirencesterPerpendicular15491CoventryPerpendicular181100DeerhurstDecorated10442DorchesterDecorated124169ExeterDecorated12083Fairford{PerpendicularRenaissance14814818GattonRenaissance239102GloucesterPerpendicular158117Great Malvern{PerpendicularDecorated16616628GuildfordRenaissance236131HerefordDecorated9624KnoleRenaissance24291LevringtonPerpendicular228117LichfieldRenaissance230135LincolnEarly English51120Little MalvernPerpendicular172—LondonRenaissance21675LowickDecorated228150Ludlow{DecoratedPerpendicular929230MargarettingPerpendicular22832NettlesteadPerpendicular228136NorburyDecorated8254Oxford{DecoratedPerpendicular129142118RossPerpendicular174257St. NeotPerpendicular20384Salisbury{Early EnglishPerpendicular30192154Shrewsbury{DecoratedPerpendicularRenaissance858585103TewkesburyDecorated10092WarwickPerpendicular177121WellsDecorated11417West WickhamPerpendicular24732WillesboroughDecorated4968WinchesterPerpendicular195197York{Early EnglishDecoratedPerpendicular577658

STAINED GLASS TOURSIN ENGLANDWith 16 Full-page IllustrationsByC. H. SHERRILLDemy 8vo. (9 × 5-¾ ins.)Price 7s. 6d. net. Postage 6d. extraSpectator: “Mr. Sherrill has written a book which not only proves him to be a true lover of mediæval glass, but proves also his enlightened comprehension of its evolution and its changing style.... A pleasant and entertaining instructor.”Sunday Times: “The illustrations are delightful, and successfully capture the blended notes of opulence and beauty which the mediæval designers threw into their work.”Daily Telegraph: “Mr. Sherrill leads his fellow-travellers by delightful paths.... He is a model guide, and all his illustrations are to the point. It is difficult to imagine how any instructor could pack more fruitful information into a smaller or more attractive parcel.”Morning Post: “Is well written, and in a style which shows that the author really feels the attraction of the art he describes.”Daily Chronicle: “A distinct triumph to write a book of 250 pages on a restricted though very beautiful subject, and never become monotonous; this is the triumph Mr. Sherrill has achieved. A really delightful volume.”Literary World: “All who care for beautiful handiwork, and all interested visitors to our old cathedrals, colleges, and churches, should possess themselves of this charming book.... The illustrations are extremely good.”Western Morning News: “The author describes the beauties he has seen in a most interesting style, and with exceedingly good taste. This volume deserves unstinted praise.”JOHN LANE,The Bodley Head, Vigo Street, London, W.

With 16 Full-page Illustrations

Demy 8vo. (9 × 5-¾ ins.)

Price 7s. 6d. net. Postage 6d. extra

Spectator: “Mr. Sherrill has written a book which not only proves him to be a true lover of mediæval glass, but proves also his enlightened comprehension of its evolution and its changing style.... A pleasant and entertaining instructor.”

Sunday Times: “The illustrations are delightful, and successfully capture the blended notes of opulence and beauty which the mediæval designers threw into their work.”

Daily Telegraph: “Mr. Sherrill leads his fellow-travellers by delightful paths.... He is a model guide, and all his illustrations are to the point. It is difficult to imagine how any instructor could pack more fruitful information into a smaller or more attractive parcel.”

Morning Post: “Is well written, and in a style which shows that the author really feels the attraction of the art he describes.”

Daily Chronicle: “A distinct triumph to write a book of 250 pages on a restricted though very beautiful subject, and never become monotonous; this is the triumph Mr. Sherrill has achieved. A really delightful volume.”

Literary World: “All who care for beautiful handiwork, and all interested visitors to our old cathedrals, colleges, and churches, should possess themselves of this charming book.... The illustrations are extremely good.”

Western Morning News: “The author describes the beauties he has seen in a most interesting style, and with exceedingly good taste. This volume deserves unstinted praise.”

STAINED GLASS TOURSIN FRANCEWith IllustrationsByC. H. SHERRILLCrown 8vo. 6s. netThe Builder: “A very well-written book, with a very good æsthetic perception as to what is best and most to be admired in ancient stained glass.”The Antiquary: “A well-qualified guide for all who can appreciate the loveliness of the old glass in which France is still so rich.”Roger FryinThe Burlington Magazine: “He has really looked, and looked lovingly, at the windows he describes. His knowledge is evidently adequate, and he rearranges it in a form which he who automobiles may read.”Westminster Gazette: “Useful and interesting. Mr. Sherrill gives just enough information to enable the lay reader to understand the difficulties with which the artist in coloured glass had to contend. Moreover, he has the eloquence of a true enthusiast, and is able to communicate to others his own delight.”Pall Mall Gazette: “Exceedingly useful. A work showing much industry, enthusiasm, and good taste, it is a really valuable supplementary volume to one’s Murray or Baedeker. The author has excellent taste.”Morning Post: “Mr. Sherrill does feel very sincerely the beauty of stained glass, and is able to communicate his feeling in writing. Mr. Sherrill pilots us on a pleasant cruise among some of the greatest of the French examples of the style.”British Architect: “The writer manages to say a good many interesting things. Mr. Sherrill’s book is written in a most interesting style.”Architectural Review: “A useful book. Mr. Sherrill has an acute appreciation of the important relationship between the glass and the surrounding architecture, and he has brought the fresh mind of the amateur to his subject.”JOHN LANE,The Bodley Head, Vigo Street, London, W.

With Illustrations

Crown 8vo. 6s. net

The Builder: “A very well-written book, with a very good æsthetic perception as to what is best and most to be admired in ancient stained glass.”

The Antiquary: “A well-qualified guide for all who can appreciate the loveliness of the old glass in which France is still so rich.”

Roger FryinThe Burlington Magazine: “He has really looked, and looked lovingly, at the windows he describes. His knowledge is evidently adequate, and he rearranges it in a form which he who automobiles may read.”

Westminster Gazette: “Useful and interesting. Mr. Sherrill gives just enough information to enable the lay reader to understand the difficulties with which the artist in coloured glass had to contend. Moreover, he has the eloquence of a true enthusiast, and is able to communicate to others his own delight.”

Pall Mall Gazette: “Exceedingly useful. A work showing much industry, enthusiasm, and good taste, it is a really valuable supplementary volume to one’s Murray or Baedeker. The author has excellent taste.”

Morning Post: “Mr. Sherrill does feel very sincerely the beauty of stained glass, and is able to communicate his feeling in writing. Mr. Sherrill pilots us on a pleasant cruise among some of the greatest of the French examples of the style.”

British Architect: “The writer manages to say a good many interesting things. Mr. Sherrill’s book is written in a most interesting style.”

Architectural Review: “A useful book. Mr. Sherrill has an acute appreciation of the important relationship between the glass and the surrounding architecture, and he has brought the fresh mind of the amateur to his subject.”

1. Minor changes have been made to correct typesetters’ errors; otherwise, every effort has been made to remain true to the author’s words and intent.

2. Page numbering in the List of Illustrations has been changed from the original book to reflect the final placement of the illustration in this e-text.

3. Formatting on the List of Towns on pages 253 and 254 has been altered slightly to make it consistent throughout.

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