PART V.ART OF BLENDING TEAS.
The primary object and fundamental principle of successful and profitable Tea blending should be to obtain in a consolidated form what is known as harmony of combination, that is, strength, pungency, flavor and piquancy in the infusion, and at the same time to accomplish this result with the smallest possible outlay. In order to secure this end three important rules must be carefully followed: (1.) To learn the taste of the consumer. (2.) To ascertain what Teas will combine best to suit this taste, and (3.) To find out to what extent the component parts of a once-adopted and satisfactory blend may be varied in case of any difficulty to secure the same kind or grade of Teas for future use. These essential objects can be best attained only by the proper selecting, weighing and arranging of the proportionate qualities and quantities of the different varieties and grades of Tea in such a manner as to secure the best results with as little variation as possible, so that before proceeding to produce a specific blend or combination the dealer must consider well the descriptions of Tea that will amalgamate most satisfactorily as well as those that will not unite harmoniously, asTeas that are not improved by combination are certain to be deteriorated in blending.
The whole art in successful Tea blending being to combine body and pungency with some particular and distinct flavor in one in order to please a majority of that portion of the public for whom the Tea is specially prepared, and at the same time to arrange its constituent parts in such a manner that this most desirable result may be accomplished at a moderate cost to the dealer than that of any single higher-priced variety, and again to learn how far the component parts may be varied without seriously affecting its regularity, so that advantage may be taken of the cheapness of any necessary variety or grade in market during the season. But it must be understood at the outset that all combinations of Tea, as a rule, must depend upon the general character, grade and flavor of the Tea most in demand in the particular section or district for which they are intended, that special variety or grade forming the base or foundation of the blends prepared for it; that is, it must dominate the combinations. As, for instance, where Oolongs are most in demand the blend must consist of from one-half to two-thirds of that variety, and so on with Congous, Japans, India and Ceylon Teas, as the case may be.
Uniformity of quality and flavor in Tea can only be secured by intelligent and skillful blending, so that the advantages to be gained by the mixing of several varieties and grades of Tea together is so apparent that it needs no arguments to sustain them. But as only the most expensive Teas possess in any marked degree the best all-round qualities which go to make a thoroughly satisfactory beverage when used alone, it is only by intelligent blending that this most desirable result can be obtained at a moderate cost to the dealer. Again it isthe dealer who understands the art of blending his Teas successfully who will invariably lead his competitors in the Tea-trade.
The taste for any particular-flavored Tea being an acquired and not a natural one, it necessarily follows that those consumers who have been accustomed to a certain flavor invariably want that particular flavor again, and so will be displeased with any other Tea that does not possess it, although it may be much higher priced and better in every way. Users of wine and other beverages have their likes and dislikes, one preferring a light or mild and another a strong or bitter taste, and so it is with most Tea drinkers when once they have acquired a preference for some particular-flavored Tea. This being a well-established fact among the Tea trade, it becomes essential for the successful Tea blender to study and learn what particular variety, grade or flavor of Tea his patrons have been accustomed to before attempting to cater to it, as not only is there a more divergence in the taste for Teas in the different parts of the country, but in cities, towns and even in localities the specific flavors in demand are so numerous and various that most of the leading Tea dealers have been enabled to mark out a distinct trade for themselves. In large cities this is a very wise and desirable policy to pursue, providing the blend or blends adopted and found satisfactory are kept uniform and regular thereafter, as it secures the return again and again of the same customer to the dealer, and thus keeps his Tea business not only steady but progressive. Even away from the large cities it is well to bear the importance of this policy in mind, but while at the beginning it may be found more advisable to keep fairly close to the established taste of the town or locality, a gradualchange by the introduction of some special combination may be found the best course to pursue.
With regard to the best Teas for blending purposes, before proceeding to the study or preparation of any specific formulas, it will be well for the dealer to consider the varieties and grades of Tea that will not blend satisfactorily as well as those that will assimilate successfully with each other. In this case it is much easier to describe the negative side first, as Teas that will not be improved are certain to be injured by blending. One of the best rules to act upon as a guide to successful Tea blending is not to allow unclean or damaged Teas—even in the smallest quantities—to be introduced into any blend. This rule should be as rigidly adhered to in the common or low-priced blends as in the choice or high-grade ones, because never for a moment should it be forgotten by the dealer that if not improved Teas are certain to be deteriorated by blending, particularly by the introduction of inferior Teas. For this reason it may be well for him to consider the grade of Tea that will combine satisfactorily as well as that will not assimilate successfully with each other, as even though all the other Teas composing a blend be well selected and well arranged, the presence of a single damaged or inferior Tea will be found to taste through it.
All Ankois and Amoy Oolongs described by the trade as “herby” or “weedy,” and sometimes as “woody” Teas, should be rejected altogether, as should ever so small a quantity of these weedy Ankois be introduced into a blend the entire combination will be irretrievably spoiled. All “dusty,” “musty,” “stemmy,” tainted orotherwise damaged Foochow and Formosa Oolongs should also be avoided by the successful Tea-blender, as they will be certain to permeate and destroy any combination into which they are introduced, no matter how small the quantity. And all “musty,” “mousey,” “minty,” and “stemmy” Congou and Souchong Teas, as well as all artificially-made and spurious Scented Teas, must also be shunned.
All Pingsuey, Canton, artificially-colored, and what are known in trade as Country Green Teas, should be tabooed altogether, as they invariably detract from any blend in which they may be used. If cheap Green Teas must be had for blending, the surest policy is to select a true Moyune Hyson or Twankay of low grade for the purpose, as the commonest kinds of the latter will give better satisfaction in any combination of Teas than the finest of the former sorts. And all artificially-colored Japan Teas, as well as all those of a “fishy,” “brassy” or metallic flavor must be avoided in blending, as they, too, destroy the good qualities of the finer Teas forming the blend. And all old, sour or otherwise tainted India, Ceylon and Java Teas in particular, should not, under any circumstances, be handled by the would-be successful Tea blender, as there is neither profit in them for the dealer nor satisfaction to the consumer. In brief, select only good, clean sweet-drawing Teas for all blending purposes, as it pays best in the end.
The chief characteristics which distinguish fine Teas may be summed up in the following sequence, viz.: choice Amoy Oolongs are “full-bodied and toasty” in flavor. Foochows are “rich and mellow.” Formosasare “fragrant and aromatic.” Fine Green Teas are “sparkling and pungent in liquor,” while Congous are “fruity” in flavor and Souchongs are slightly “tarry.” Choice Japans of all makes are light in draw and what is known as “mealy” in flavor, while Indias are what is known as “malty” and Ceylons “toasty.” Scented Teas are “piquant” and possess what is technically termed a “bouquet,” but all Java Teas usually turn sour or rancid in a very brief time after being once opened and exposed to the atmosphere.
For a low-priced Tea suitable for restaurant and general trade where a cheap, heavy-bodied and strong-flavored liquor is the mainconsideration:—
Parts.Varieties.Price.2Ning-chow Congou@ .1410Amoy Oolong@ .12Average cost.13
In the Oolong, which forms the base of this blend, a little coarseness may be tolerated, but “herby” and “weedy” Teas must be avoided, as what pungency is required is supplied by the Congou, which must, however, be free from any suspicion of oldness or staleness, and if not sufficiently heavy, the addition of one part of Broken-leaf Assam will supply this defect.
Another low-priced blend is composed asfollows:—
Parts.Varieties.Price.2Oonfa Congou@ .208Mohea Oolong@ .16Average cost.16½
For a low-priced to a fair grade Tea-blend the following combination has been found satisfactory in a mining or manufacturing district, where a full, heavy, substantial Tea isrequired:—
Parts.Varieties.Price.1Moning Congou@ .202Amoy Oolong@ .207Foochow Oolong@ .20Average cost.20
This combination yields a dark-colored, heavy-bodied, “grippy” beverage, one that will stand a second drawing and still be strong and flavory.
Intended for same class of trade if former should not adequatelyplease:—
Parts.Varieties.Price.1Foochow Oolong@ .182Kaisow Congou@ .2010Ning-yong Oolong@ .16Average cost.19
The Ning-yong in this combination should be clean and as sweet-drawing as can be had for the price, and the Congou as high-toasted as possible. If not sufficiently heavy or pungent, the addition of one pound Broken-leaf Assam will improve it in this respect wonderfully.
For a fair to medium blend, a combination like the following will be found to give almost universal satisfaction in any locality where a full-ripe round liquor and high flavor is indemand:—
Parts.Varieties.Price.1Ning-chow Congou@ .302Foochow Oolong@ .242Formosa Oolong@ .24Average cost.24¼
The Foochow Oolong in this combination while possessing a full body is not sufficiently flavory to tone-up the combination, the Formosa Oolong is added for this purpose, the Congou giving character to the whole.
To obtain a grippy Tea, one that will stand a second drawing and still possess sufficient body and flavor to please, the following issuggested:—
Parts.Varieties.Price.2Foochow Oolong@ .153Formosa Oolong@ .205Kaisow Congou@ .24Average cost.21
A blend similar to the following will be found to give very general satisfaction at all times and in all sections, being full rich, and strong, yet withal smooth and pleasing to the average taste and entirely dissimilar to any single variety in commonuse:—
Parts.Varieties.Price.1Moning Congou@ .301Basket-fired Japan@ .308Formosa Oolong@ .30Average cost.30
A fair Nankin Moyune Tea may be substituted for the Japan when Green Tea is required in the combination, or, better still, added to it in such cases.
A very serviceable Tea that will yield a rich, heavy-bodied pungent liquor, much admired by Irish or English tea consumers, is composed asfollows:—
Parts.Varieties.Price.3Formosa Oolong@ .303Pekoe-tipped Assam@ .30Average cost.30
In this combination the Assam is introduced to add strength to the piquancy of the Formosa, both forming a full-bodied, fragrant Tea in conjunction.
The appended blend yields a clear, strong, bright infusion, rich and fragrant in flavor and pleasing in aroma, for those who desire an all-black Tea.
Parts.Varieties.Price.1Assam Pekoe@ .303Basket-fired Japan@ .245Formosa Oolong@ .3010Foochow Oolong@ .26Average cost.27
The Oolongs in this combination lack body and pungency, which the addition of the Assam imparts, the Japan giving the necessary fragrance.
The following blend has been found to give almost universal satisfaction in a neighborhood composed chiefly of a working class and to Tea drinkers generally, costing much less than any single variety possessing the same cupqualities:—
Parts.Varieties.Price.5Foochow Oolong@ .205Sun-dried Japan@ .205Assam Souchong@ .20Average cost.20
If the trade be a professional one, a blend like the following will be found to suit the most fastidioustaste:—
Parts.Varieties.Price.1Moyune Young Hyson@ .404Choice Foochow Oolong@ .405Choice Formosa Oolong@ .40Average cost.40
When a particularly rich, full-bodied aromatic-flavored Tea is required to please a taste otherwise difficult to suit, the appended formula is recommended.
Parts.Varieties.Price.2Choicest Foochow Oolong@3Choicest Ceylon Pekoe@5Choicest Formosa Oolong@Average cost
Another combination like the following that is unique in itself, the flavor being unlike that of any single variety grown.
Parts.Varieties.Price.5Basket-fired Japan@10Foochow Oolong@10Moyune Young Hyson@Average cost
But if still not of sufficient strength, add one part of fine Moning or Kaisow Congou to tone it up.
The three most satisfactory and attractive blends in Black Teas, however, are composed as follows, whichmay be divided into Choice, Extra Choice and Choicest, and are warranted to suit any taste or section of the country, in addition to the fact that the dealer need not carry too many kinds for their preparation.
Parts.Varieties.Price.2Kaisow Congou@ .308Foochow Oolong@ .30Average cost.30
Parts.Varieties.Price.2Moning Congou@ .352Basket-fired Japan@ .356Foochow Oolong@ .35Average cost,.35
Parts.Varieties.Price.2Fine Ning-chow Congou@ .402Fine Basket-fired Japan@ .406Fine Formosa Oolong@ .40Average cost,.40
Ning-chow is one of the best of the Moning Congou Teas for blending purposes; the finer grades being Pekoe-tipped and flavored. The dried leaf is small, evenly curled and grayish-black in color, while the infused leaf is of a bright-brown color with a tendency to red in the cup. The liquor is rich, ripe and full in body, and the flavor is more delicate and aromatic than that of any of the other varieties of Congou Tea. Themedium and lower grades will also be found very useful to the dealer, as they are heavy and strong in liquor, combining advantageously with most of the other Teas and keeping as a general rule much better.
To these may be added the following combinations.
Parts.Varieties.Price.1Choice Assam Pekoe@5Choice Foochow Oolong@Average cost
Parts.Varieties.Price.1Ceylon Golden Pekoe@5Choice Formosa Oolong@Average cost
Parts.Varieties.Price.5Choicest Foochow Oolong@5Choicest Formosa Oolong@Average cost
In the general run of trade these grades are unmatchable at any price, and may be termed the perfection of Tea at their respective prices, suiting any and all tastes.
In Green Tea blends the combinations are limited, being chiefly confined to.
Parts.Varieties.Price.3Sun-dried Japan@ .203Moyune Young Hyson@ .24Average cost,.22
Parts.Varieties.Price.3Pan-fired Japan@ .207Moyune Imperial@ .30Average cost,.27
And for a very low-priced Tea of this order the best results are obtainable from a combination composedof:—
Parts.Varieties.Price.5Japan Nibs@ .155Moyune Hyson@ .15Average cost,.15
In this latter blend, if the Hyson is scarce and difficult to secure, a good, clean, sweet-drawing Twankay or Hyson-skin will answer the purpose.
Two other good combinations are formed as follows when an all Imperial and all Young Hyson isrequired:—
Parts.Varieties.Price.2Moyune Imperial@2Tienke Imperial@6Taiping Imperial@Average cost
Parts.Varieties.Price.2Nankin Young Hyson@2Tienke Young Hyson@6Fy-chow Young Hyson@Average cost
Green and Black Tea blends are mostly composed of parts Oolongs and Imperials, the other varieties, such asCongous, Souchongs, India and Ceylons, being considered as entirely too strong in combination with the already pungent Green Teas.
Parts.Varieties.Price.1Moyune Imperial@ .184Amoy Oolong@ .15Average cost.15½
No. 2.Parts.Varieties.Price.2Choice Moyune Imperial@ .308Choice Foochow Oolong@ .28Average cost.28½
Parts.Varieties.Price.2Moyune Young Hyson@ .304Choice Formosa Oolong@ .30Average cost.30
Parts.Varieties.Price.2Moyune Young Hyson@ .404Choicest Foochow Oolong@ .404Choicest Formosa Oolong@ .40Average cost.40
Is a combination that is considered quite unique in itself by many Tea-drinkers.
Parts.Varieties.Price.5Sun-dried Japan@10Moyune Young Hyson@10Choice Foochow Oolong@Average cost
In China Green Teas Moyunes will be found the most valuable and satisfactory for all blending purposes, the finer grades particularly yielding a rich straw-colored liquor, very delicate and aromatic in flavor, and at the same time possessing a pungency somewhat resembling that of a choice Formosa Oolong in character.
The following blends cannot be surpassed or even matched in strength and flavor by any tea of either kind when usedalone:—
Parts.Varieties.Price.1Ning-chow Congou@2Basket-fired Japan@5Foochow Oolong@5Formosa Oolong@Average cost
The appended formula makes a splendid cup of Tea for such consumers as may desire an all blackblend:—
Parts.Varieties.Price.1Moning Congou@1Basket-fired Japan@8Formosa Oolong@Average cost
A blend like the following will be found to give very general satisfaction, being rich, full and strong, yet piquant and pleasing and entirely foreign to any other Tea in generaluse:—
Parts.Varieties.Price.1Pan-fired Japan@1Moyune Imperial@6Formosa Oolong@Average cost
Parts.Varieties.Price.2Sun-dried Japan@2Basket-fired Japan@6Foochow Oolong@Average cost
Parts.Varieties.Price.1Moning Congou@1Basket-fired Japan@1Moyune Imperial@3Foochow Oolong@4Formosa Oolong@Average cost
In addition to these a blend composed of equal parts of a medium grade Pan-fired Japan and a plain dark-drawing Foochow Oolong forms an excellent combination at a moderate price. And a fair Pakeong Young Hyson and a choice Sun-dried Japan yields an excellent liquor for those desiring an all Green Tea blend.
In the appended combinations only from three to four component parts are given for each blend, as the dealer should not attempt to mix more of these sorts until he has become thoroughly acquainted with their peculiarities or educated his trade up to theiruse:—
Intended for a very low-priced tea.
Parts.Varieties.Price.2Common Moning Congou@ .152Common Kaisow Congou@ .152Broken-leaf Assam@ .15Average cost.15
This is a good combination where the water is hard, as it is in many sections of the country, the sweetness of the Moning and briskness of the Kaisow being unequalled for all low-priced blends.
Is another excellent combination, answering the samepurpose:—
Parts.Varieties.Price.1Saryune Congou@1Paklin Congou@3Assam Congou@Average cost
Strength not appearance should be the test of the Teas forming this blend, and if Assam Souchong is cheaper it may be used to better advantage.
Is composed of
Parts.Varieties.Price.1Suey-kut Congou@1Lapsing Souchong@3Rough Pungent Assam@Average cost
A fine Kintuck or Kiukiang Congou may be used with equal advantage in this blend if the Suey-kut is difficult to obtain.
Parts.Varieties.Price.1Paklin Congou@2Ning-chow Congou@2Darjeeling Souchong@Average cost
The chief feature of this combination is its delicacy of flavor, the Paklin imparting a deep rich color to the liquor, the Ning-chow enriching the flavor, and the Darjeeling adding weight and strength to the entire blend.
Makes a very good medium-priced Tea, one nearly always sure of appreciation among a foreignpopulation:—
Parts.Varieties.Price.1Fruity Moning Congou@1Souchong-flavored Kaisow@3Pungent Cachar Souchong@Average cost
The latter must be strong and grippy in order to give strength and fullness to the other component parts of this combination.
In the blending of India Teas alone the best results are obtained from a combination of equal parts of the Assam, Cachar and Darjeeling sorts, a good plan being to mix three to five of these Teas together. A leading and popular blend is composed of a strong, thick Assam, a brisk and pungent Cachar, with a ripe, juicy Deradoon and a fine flavored Darjeeling or soft character Kangra to impart a distinctive feature to the combination.
In the blending of India, China and Japan Teas the dealer must use extreme caution, as the combining of these varieties is comparatively a new departure among American Tea consumers.
Parts.Varieties.Price.1Assam Pekoe@1Formosa Oolong@3Basket-fired Japan@10Foochow Oolong@Average cost
Parts.Varieties.Price.5Assam Souchong@5Foochow Oolong@5Sun-dried Japan@Average cost
Parts.Varieties.Price.1Moning Congou@2Assam Souchong@7Foochow Oolong@Average cost
The annexed combination has proven to be a very popular Tea in many sections of Philadelphia andvicinity:—