Helpe me wonder, her’s a bookeWhere I would for ever looke.Never did a gipsie traceSmoother lines in hands or face;Venus here doth Saturne move,That you should be the Queene of Love.Masque of Gipsies.Ben Jonson.113
Helpe me wonder, her’s a bookeWhere I would for ever looke.Never did a gipsie traceSmoother lines in hands or face;Venus here doth Saturne move,That you should be the Queene of Love.Masque of Gipsies.Ben Jonson.113
THE GIPSY SIGNAL—OUR AUSTRALIAN MEAT—THE FAIR POETESS—OUR FRIEND FROM EISBOD ILL—THE RYE’S UNWELL—THE LEHNSMŒND OF BANG—THE FERRYMAN AND SON—WE CROSS THE BEINA—TATERSPROG—A KIND FAMILY—STORSVEEN STATION—SECLUDED VALLEY—A TOURIST LELS US—ESMERALDA’S ADVENTURE—THE PEASANT WOMEN’S SONG—SORUM STATION—TENTS PITCHED BY A LAGOON—NŒS—NO HORSEBOAT—IMPROMPTU HORSEBOAT—HOW WE GOT ACROSS—A RIVER SCENE.
In a short time, Esmeralda and ourself slowly descended the steep winding road towards Krœmmermoen, as we heard the gipsy’s whistle in the distance. Evening was fast closing. The road wound zigzag round the head of a deep gorge. Soon afterwards, to our left above the road, we saw Noah, with a fire blazing in the rocks.
It was a retired nook of the road, which had been almost made on purpose. The last of our Cheddar cheese was brought out for our evening meal. The cheese had kept good through all our wanderings. We had also tea, broiled ham, and what remained of our fladbröd. A few people passing down the road, came up to our tents. Night closed in, and the wanderers, after their long day’s journey, were soon soundly asleep.
Heavy rain fell in the night. We were up in good time next morning. For frokost, we had biscuits, and butter and tea. The morning was showery; but many visitors came to see us. Then the Lehnsmœnd, a brother, we think, of the Prœst of Bang, came to our tents. The herre had a young lady, we believe a niece, with him. He was a pleasant, gentlemanly man, who spoke English very well. After we had shown him our tents, he said, if we stayed the next day, he should be happy to introduce us to his brother. As he left our camp, we presented him with our gipsy song, as a souvenir.
A tin of preserved Australian meat was opened. Really this meat is excellent. What could be better? Even our gipsies were perfectly satisfied, and thoroughly enjoyed it. With some boiled potatoes, we made an excellent middags-mad.
At five o’clock we sent Noah and Zachariah down to Krœmmermoen to buy bread. They met with ourfriend from Eisbod, on the Bygdin Lake. He had been taken ill, and could not proceed on his journey.
Whilst they were away, some young ladies came to our camp, and sat on the rocks near. At last one bowed to Esmeralda, who spoke to her, and asked her to take a seat in our tent; but she hesitated. We went to them. They seemed much interested in our tent life. The young lady, who spoke English, said she was merely a visitor at Bang. She expatiated on the beauties of the valley, and then she asked us, if we would kindly give her one of our songs. She said she had written some verses herself, and begged our acceptance of them. The young Norwegian lady had very pleasing manners—something winning and charming. Perhaps she had not the highest type of beauty; still there was a power to fascinate, such as we had not often met with, even in those of a more perfect mould—a softness, a gentleness of manner, always accompanied with goodness of disposition, and kindness of heart. Poetry! Yes; it vibrated in every word she spoke. Could we refuse her anything? Two copies of our songs were brought forth from the recesses of our tin box. We presented one, to our fair visitor, and the other, to one of her friends. There was a third; but unfortunately we had forgotten there were three lady-visitors. The verses presented to us we shall prize. Reader, we must give them place in this account of our wanderings. Our book would be incomplete without them.
The following are the Norwegian verses. The translation we have had made, is also given with them. Our readers will not now be surprised that we admired the beautiful scenery of Lille Bang.
1.Hvor deiligt er det lille BangNaturen mig indbyder,Til ret at stemme i en SangSom udaf Hjertet lyder.2.Hvad er det dog som mangler her?Alt i en skjön Forening,Naturens Krœfter i sig bierDerom er kun een Mening.3.Sig Fjeldet slynger i en KrandsOm Dalens Yndigheder;Hvor Elven i en lang Runddands,Let gjennem denne swœver.4.Ved Siden af den stille Elv,Sig frem med Bulder trœnger,Det rige store Fossevœld,Og Klippens Masser spranger.5.Ei heller Skovens Dunkelhed,Man blandt det Andet savner,Thi Fjeldet prydet er dermed,Og Dalens Skyöd den favner.6.Hvad staaer der da tilbage som,Det lille Bang ei eier?Hvis du det kan saa Kom o KomNaturen alt opveier.Sweet lille Bang, delightful spot;Nature herself, impelling,Bids me pour forth such tuneful song,That now my heart’s o’erwelling.What now, then, may be wanting?All Nature’s powers combine,With order and with harmony,To perfect the design.The Fjeld-slopes’ flowery garlandsEnwreath the little dale;And, winding in and outwards,The rippling streams prevail.Yet, ’twixt the banks so stilly,The murmuring waters flow,Till down a rapid torrent,Restless, on they go.Nor wanting from the gloam-land,’Mid the grove’s secluded alley,Is the eider duck to give some lifeTo hill-side and to valley.What charm is there yet wanting,Which lille Bang has not?Her voice invites all NatureTo show a fairer spot.
1.
Hvor deiligt er det lille BangNaturen mig indbyder,Til ret at stemme i en SangSom udaf Hjertet lyder.
2.
Hvad er det dog som mangler her?Alt i en skjön Forening,Naturens Krœfter i sig bierDerom er kun een Mening.
3.
Sig Fjeldet slynger i en KrandsOm Dalens Yndigheder;Hvor Elven i en lang Runddands,Let gjennem denne swœver.
4.
Ved Siden af den stille Elv,Sig frem med Bulder trœnger,Det rige store Fossevœld,Og Klippens Masser spranger.
5.
Ei heller Skovens Dunkelhed,Man blandt det Andet savner,Thi Fjeldet prydet er dermed,Og Dalens Skyöd den favner.
6.
Hvad staaer der da tilbage som,Det lille Bang ei eier?Hvis du det kan saa Kom o KomNaturen alt opveier.
Sweet lille Bang, delightful spot;Nature herself, impelling,Bids me pour forth such tuneful song,That now my heart’s o’erwelling.
What now, then, may be wanting?All Nature’s powers combine,With order and with harmony,To perfect the design.
The Fjeld-slopes’ flowery garlandsEnwreath the little dale;And, winding in and outwards,The rippling streams prevail.
Yet, ’twixt the banks so stilly,The murmuring waters flow,Till down a rapid torrent,Restless, on they go.
Nor wanting from the gloam-land,’Mid the grove’s secluded alley,Is the eider duck to give some lifeTo hill-side and to valley.
What charm is there yet wanting,Which lille Bang has not?Her voice invites all NatureTo show a fairer spot.
Noah and Zachariah returned with the kagebröd, dark, heavy bread, with carraway seeds in it.114Our friend from Eisbod had sent to say, he would come up to our camp, if well enough. They had also made acquaintance, with an old Norwegian, who resided near the village. He showed them his violin, for which he wanted four dollars.
After we had finished our tea, bread, and butter, more visitors arrived. One peasant was an important representative of royalty. He wore a large waistcoat; on every button he had a photograph of some potentate. The King and Queen of Sweden, the Prince and Princess of Wales, and the King of Sardinia, were among the number. His waistcoat, in fact, included nearly all the crowned heads of Europe. After tea, we sat in the rocksabove our camp. The evening was very damp, and showery. When we returned, our visitors were still sitting by our tents. Notwithstanding heavy rain, they continued until about nine o’clock.
It was three o’clock in the morning when we were stirring. The Tarno Rye’s back was much chafed. The donkeys had eaten the best part of one of our pocket handkerchiefs, the day before. For frokost we had tea, black-bread, and cheese.
The morning was cloudy, as we left our camp at half-past six o’clock. We did not feel so well as usual. Our health had been excellent throughout. As we passed a cottage, the gipsies pointed out the old man’s house, with its flag, and large stone, with a photograph let into it, of his majesty Carl John.115
When we came to the Krœmmermoen station soon afterwards, Noah and Zachariah were sent to buy bread, and wire at the shop. The station is apparently exceedingly comfortable. Esmeralda went on with the baggage. Going up stairs, we were shown into our friend’s bed-room. Our friend from Eisbod was in bed looking very pale and unwell. Something had disagreed with him, and he had not been well since he left Skogstad. Apparently he had a severe attack of diarrhœa. Our bread cost us one mark, potatoes four skillings, and wire ten skillings.
As we left our friend, he said he should try andcontinue his journey the same morning. It seemed as if we were ever destined to pass, and repass, and meet continually.
When we overtook our baggage shortly after, near the village church of Bang, we found our lady visitors of the previous day, and the Lehnsmœnd, and their friends, assembled, to give us their parting good wishes. Much we regretted, that our time did not permit us to stay another day. Bang is delightfully situated. However powerful the description, there is much that the poet’s pen, will fail to convey.
The Lehnsmœnd, our agreeable visitor of the previous day, the young gentleman we had seen at Lomen on the Slidre Fjord, the ladies, especially our fair visitor, who had given us the verses, were as charming as before. All united to say to us “Bon voyage,” as we left the lovely dale of Lille Bang.116
After we had left Bang, the road reached the river’s bank. Fortunately there was a horse-boat, with a landing and all complete. The ferry-house was on the other side; the river Beina was before us. The old man at the ferry wore breeches and stockings, and very large shoes. He was heavy, stooping, and slow, and was followed by his son, who was his duplicate, in large baggy trousers, and immense shoes, and a shade slower still. They were a perfect study. A draper’s assistant would have measured up their time, at five minutes the yard. Both had a sparkle of comicality in their eyes, as they helped our gipsies to carry our baggage from the donkeys into the boat. Strange to say, the donkeyswalked on to the horse-boat, without a moment’s hesitation. The old man rowed with two very large oars, whilst his son slowly used a shaft.
The boat reached the opposite bank, and the donkeys were safely landed. Two females, we took for his wife and daughter, came to a fence to look at our donkeys. The old man began to assist in taking our baggage on shore. Presently Mephistopheles rushed on deck. The old man was slowly dragging at a heavy pocket, which generally took the strength of Noah, and ourself, to lift on to the Puru Rawnee. Suddenly Mephistopheles, spinning the old man almost round, like a tee-to-tum, swung it over his shoulder like a feather, and in two seconds deposited it on shore. We shall never forget the old man’s look of amazement, and his son’s sudden pause to take another look at Mephistopheles. Then Mephistopheles in his hurry tumbled headlong over some bags, to the amusement of the two ferrymen.
It was found that a rope had been left on the other side the river. Mephistopheles jumped into a light pram, and by his rapidity, almost tumbled the man’s son into the bottom of the boat. Away went Mephistopheles, with two oars, splashing across the river. Now they are coming back, the old man’s son sprawling in the stern, as he holds on, with astonished look; whilst Mephistopheles, with fearful irregularity, is sending the waters of the Beina in all directions.
Our gipsies are screaming with laughter. “Ha, ha! Uncle Sam coming from Bosbury, a seaport town in England! Dik the Balo-Shero. Look at Elijah! Why, he’s got a square nose.”
We were exceedingly thankful that our gipsies’tatersprog and English slang was never understood. “Coming from Bosbury,” had reference to a question, a countryman once asked one of the tribe, “Where’s Bosbury?” “Bosbury? why, it’s a seaport town in the middle of England, with lots of ships!” “Well,” said the rustic, “I never heerd on it afore.”
Whilst the ferryman’s son was enjoying his rapid transit, his father, mother, and sister, as we supposed them to be, were enjoying our brandy. Of course, the son, when he did land, drank “gamle norge” to his happy escape. It was not the first aquavit he had taken. Energy is catching; they began to look quite sharp. Our transit cost twelve skillings. Mephistopheles played them a tune on his Violin. The ferryman and family seemed highly delighted. We left with their good wishes, to continue our journey.
Still we became more and more unwell. Slowly we went on, until we came to a large gaard, of superior size, and comfort.
The road passed through a large open meadow, shut in by gates, on the banks of the river. Near the river the grass had been newly mown. The farmer, and some of his family, came to see the donkeys, which the gipsies halted for their inspection. The farmer’s wife asked if they stood on their hind legs. The people seemed so kindly; the meadow so charmingly situate, on the banks of the broad river, that we decided to stay. We made the farmer, and his wife, understand that we wanted a mark of fladbröd, and six skillings’ worth of milk. Esmeralda went to the gaard for it. They nearly filled one large can full of milk. Noah in the meantime lighted a fire, and made the gröd. The donkeys were drivenacross a dry portion of the shingly bed of the river, to a green island for rest and shade.
The farmer and his wife sat down near us. It was astonishing the kindly interest they took. We fancy we looked ill and worn. At first we said nothing to our gipsies. It may probably pass away, thought we. “Du courage.” Esmeralda soon discovered that something was the matter with the Rye, and we told her. Still we sat on the beautiful new mown turf, gazing on the rapid broad flowing river, the farmer, and his wife and family near. Then the donkeys were driven back for us to go. Some of the family brought green corn, and green peas, for the donkeys to eat. Then we gave the farmer’s wife a song, for, somehow, we seemed to have established a friendship with them. The farmer’s wife seemed anxious to know our name; so we wrote it on the back of the song, with the date. Then she asked, whose wife Esmeralda was, and if we worked in metals. They did not quite seem to understand, when we said we travelled for pleasure. So we parted from the friendly farmer, and his wife, and family, at about twelve o’clock, and continued our journey.
Passing the Höler Elv, we came towards Storsveen. Once a man came out of a wood, hastily put up his scythe, and followed us. He wanted to see our donkeys. The grain is stacked up in the fields, sheaf upon sheaf, round poles, six feet high. Zachariah tried the river, but could not catch any fish. It did not appear there were many.
Near Storsveen, we saw a pig with a broken nose. Soon after we had passed the turn down to the Storsveen Station, we noticed behind us a traveller. It was ourfriend from Eisbod, walking after us with his knapsack. We had met again. Our friend said he was much better, and was going to Storsveen; but seeing us before him, he had overtaken us. After a pleasant converse, he returned to Storsveen Station to get a conveyance, and said he should overtake us again.
Struggle as we would, we got worse. Our gipsies noticed it. They became more silent. We told Noah to camp, at the first convenient spot. About two o’clock we came to a beautiful part of the valley. All that we could desire. The road passed through an amphitheatre of green turf, closed in by rising rocks, covered with dense, and thickly hanging woods. In front we had the broad river. A dry, level, shingly beach, stretched out, to nearly the middle of the stream. On the opposite bank, to our right, there was a magnificent cliff, above the river, clothed with wood. The scene was well suited for a rest. Our gipsies quickly drove the donkeys to a rising hillock, beneath the wood, a short distance from the road, and pitched our tents. Our friend from Eisbod, came soon after in a conveyance. Paying a short visit to our camp, he had one of our cigars, a pleasant converse, and had almost recovered.
As he was leaving in his conveyance, two smart young tourists came along the road; they were on foot. Their whole equipment was neatness, even to the umbrella. As, very far from well, we sat near our tent, we could see them in conference, with our friend from Eisbod. Immediately afterwards, one produced a sketch-book, and apparently sketched the donkeys. Then he appeared to be taking a sketch of our camp,and Esmeralda, and ourself. Noah got up, and in an earnest tone said, “They are ‘lelling’ you, sir,” and vanished off to the river, where Zachariah was disporting himself on the shingly beach, with nothing on but his shirt.117They at last appeared to have completed the sketch of our donkeys, and camp, for suddenly the book was shut. They took off their hats; we, of course returned the salute, and they continued their excursion. If we had not been so unwell, we should have sought their acquaintance.
Very quietly we rested in our camp. Esmeralda did what she could. No one came. It was just such a spot one could wish to die in. Yes; but who is to write “Tent Life with the English Gipsies in Norway”? Where are the Birmingham bagman’s two copies? Where will be the many others required, including that for the officer with the Roman fever? Are they to be disappointed? No: we shall not fail them, in the closing scenes of our nomad wanderings.
Noah came back before our aftensmad, with thirteen minnows, and Zachariah three, which were fried for tea, with fladbröd and butter. The afternoon was beautiful, and at nine o’clock we retired to rest.
It is Tuesday, 16th August.En routeZachariah, “Vand” “Yog.” We are all up at half-past three o’clock. It rained a little, and was very cloudy. One carriole passed on the road in the night, and another early in the morning. Noah lighted a fire, and we hadAustralian preserved meat, and fladbröd, and tea for breakfast.
When the gipsies were packing up, a man and a boy came across the river in a boat, to look at the donkeys. Whilst they were absent from their boat, Esmeralda went to the river to wash, and getting into the boat to amuse herself, it got detached from the side, and she was floating away, without oars, into the middle of the river, when she jumped out nearly up to her middle. This incident, she did not relate until afterwards, thinking we might be angry with her, for getting into the boat.
The tents are struck, the donkeys loaded, and we are off at eight o’clock. The rest and repose at our beautiful camping ground, had given us renewed spirit. We were decidedly better. The weather cleared. The road winds, through a diversified scene, of thick fir woods, and occasional enclosures. One very large gaard on the opposite side the river, before we reached Sorum, was admirably arranged for comfort and convenience. It was pleasantly placed above the river. We noticed a pigeon-box against a large granary, the only one we saw in Norway.
Coming to a delightful spot, near a stream of water, in a wood, not far from the road, we halted. There were some houses on the other side the road. One woman was singing, who had an excellent voice. We seldom heard any singing in Norway. Singing birds, and singing women, were scarce. We were pleased with this woman’s voice.
Our middag’s-mad consisted of Australian meat, fladbröd and butter, and cheese and tea. We had alsochocolate. An altercation took place between Noah and Zachariah. Mephistopheles shouted so loud, we gave him a bang on the head, which effectually laid his spirit low.
At half-past three o’clock, the party were againen route. The country was very pleasing; the weather delightful. Zachariah played, from time to time, his violin, as we slowly journeyed along. The Sorum Station is a quaint old place. The road passes through a sort of court surrounded by wooden buildings. It is kept by very respectable people. We purchased twenty-two skillings’ worth of fladbröd and butter. All thegens de la maisonassembled to see us, including the traveller, who had passed in his carriole.
With mutual salutations, we again left, Zachariah playing his violin, as we passed through a thick forest. Then we had more enclosures, and some pretty rural lanes. At last, towards the close of evening, when the road passed through an open fir wood, we noticed a large lagoon, or open arm of the river, to our left, on the margin of the wood.
A halt was called, and we camped on the edge of the wood, below the road. Our tents were pitched near two tall Scotch firs, standing outside the wood, with a pleasant view across the lagoon. It was from six to seven o’clock, when we halted. Noah and Zachariah went fishing, but without success. Our aftens-mad consisted of tea, ham, fladbröd, butter, and chocolate. Esmeralda and ourself practised Romany. Our health was fast returning—in fact, we were almost as well as usual.
Up at four o’clock. Now, Noah! Zachariah! Noah got the water, and our fire was lighted. We were just goingto breakfast at five o’clock, when three men, and a peasant woman came by. They were going harvesting. Loud were their exclamations of “peen giære” (fine beauty), “meget peen,” “nei, nei.” They looked curiously at our preparations for breakfast, and then left.
When Noah was loading our donkeys, three men and a girl came to see the donkeys, and were surprised at the weight they carried. It appeared we were at a place pronounced like Helgst, about one furlong from Nœs.
At seven o’clock, pushing onwards along a pleasant forest road, we again came to enclosures. Then a church appeared to view and a rifle range. The range appeared a very short one, having a booth, apparently used as a shelter for the marksmen.118We had now left the Valders, and had seen some of the beauties of the Aadalen. Nœs was at the upper shore of the Spirilen Lake, and it would be necessary to cross the Beina at its outfall to the lake.
The Nœs Station is large, and in a wooden building near, we found a shop containing a variety of goods of all sorts, and sizes. First we bought wooden spoons, and soap, for twenty-two skillings, and then some fladbröd for one mark. Noah had gone beyond the house, to the ferry-boat, on the lake shore. Esmeralda and ourself were leaving the shop, when we met Noah, with a gloomy countenance. He informed us there was no horse-boat, and the donkeys could not possibly cross.
Saying we should soon see whether we could cross, we all went down with a civil man, who seemed the ownerof the ferry, and premises. After much talking, he explained that the steamer left at seven o’clock in the morning, and it was now nine o’clock, and we were too late.
Looking at the two small boats, we explained to the ferryman, that we must get across somehow. He seemed to catch our meaning; but our gipsies shook their heads, and said the poor donkeys would be drowned.
To continue our journey, we were determined. The obstacle of a river was not to be thought of, for a moment. A day would be lost, by camping at Nœs until the next morning. Although we might probably make up lost time in the steamer, still we preferred going on by land, if possible.
Returning to the shop, we bought a pound of white sugar for 20 skillings. The old man in the meantime appeared with two men, and poles, and a strong tether rope, and an axe. Again we returned to the sandy beach. Noah and Zachariah were very desponding at the sight. It looked very much as if they were going to erect a scaffold, and behead the donkeys on the spot. The owner of the ferry shortened one of the poles, and in a few minutes, the two small boats were securely lashed to the two poles, extending over them crossways. Our gipsies were still unable to disconnect the donkeys, with anything short of drowning.
A small crowd of peasants now collected to view the passage of the Beina by the English gipsies in Norway, with their animals and baggage. Most of the men, who chewed tobacco, were dressed in light jumpers, patched trowsers, and large heavy boots, without stockings; the kind-looking stout female, who sold us the fladbröd, wasthere, and young peasant girls, with handkerchiefs tied over their heads.
The Tarno Rye was first bridled, and led to the boats by Zachariah. There it decidedly refused to go any further. Zachariah pulled, Noah lifted at its hind legs, ourself and two men lifted at the fore legs. The struggle ended, in our fairly carrying the donkey into the one boat, at the risk of all coming down into the water, together with one tremendous splash; the other boat was turned sideways, and we forced the Puro Rye into it, whilst a man held its head. The boats were quickly rowed off by another man, and the animals safely landed.
One man was bold enough to ride one of the donkeys to a wood close to the sandy beach. Zachariah rowed back. All were highly pleased at the success. The Puru Rawnee made a tremendous fight. Zachariah tugged, and the Puru Rawnee got one hind leg over the boat’s side; but a stout fellow, who ultimately nearly pushed it over Zachariah, placed its leg safe in the boat. The baggage was put in the other boat, to balance the donkey, and then they crossed the river.
The boats returned. We paid the man fifteen skillings, which seemed to satisfy all, and with our gipsies, and the rest of our baggage, soon reached the other side. Several were collected, when we landed: one gentlemanly, well-dressed Norwegian, looked at our maps, and pointed out the route. Esmeralda immediately began to castigate her donkey, then scolded Zachariah, and was in her turn scolded by ourself, whilst the boatmen drank “gamle norge” in our aquavit.
They played on the guitar until the warm day had given place to the starry night. I sat on my balcony, and looked on with pleasure at the gaiety of youth.
They played on the guitar until the warm day had given place to the starry night. I sat on my balcony, and looked on with pleasure at the gaiety of youth.
With castanets they danced,Their only music this;Their eyes into each other’s glanced,Quaffing sweet draughts of bliss.
With castanets they danced,Their only music this;Their eyes into each other’s glanced,Quaffing sweet draughts of bliss.
In Spain.Hans Christian Andersen.
WE LEAVE THE BEINA—THE LILLE PIGE—ANY PORT IN A STORM—THE FAIRIES’ VISIT—THE SPIRILEN—YTRE AADALEN VAL—LARGE BONDEGAARD—HEEN WOODLAND CAMP—EVENING VISITORS—THE HÖNEFOS—INTELLIGENT POSTMASTER—NORDERHOUG CHURCH—HALT NEAR VIK—THE GIPSIES’ POLITICAL PHILOSOPHY—NOAH AND THE PHILANTHROPIST—STEENS FJORD—THE KROGKLEVEN—BEAUTIFUL GORGE—CAMP NEAR THE KING’S VIEW.
Noah and Zachariah quickly loaded the donkeys;119one of the boatmen showed us the way. We followed a track from the river through the wood. An old boat near the river, in the wood, turned on one side, with themarks of a fire having been lighted before it, showed that it had been used as a bivouac.
Passing through the court of a large house, near the wood, we shortly afterwards, entered by a gate into a pleasant shady way, leading along the left shore of the Spirilen Lake. A large crowd were still watching our cavalcade from the house.
It was about twenty minutes past ten o’clock, when we left the river Beina;120a halt was called at eleven, in a wood, on the shores of the Spirilen.
Our middags-mad consisted of soup, made of potatoes, ham, bacon, and Liebig’s essence, with addition of some gröd.
Zachariah went fishing, but was unsuccessful. The rain commenced, and we either slept, or wrote our notes from about two o’clock until four o’clock.
Again we were all on the move. Following the rough track through the fir-forest, we had pleasing vistas of the lake. Then we came to where some men were making a new road, and sometimes, we had to change from the old road, on to the new portion, lately opened for traffic; passing Bjönvicken to Engordden the road had enclosures, and farms on either side. About six o’clock we noticed the steamer going up the lake to Nœs. At one place, we passed a new house, which appeared to have a shop. Soon after, a little girl followed us with something wrapped in a white napkin. It occurred to us, to send Noah back, and see if he could get bread. The little girl at once guessed what we wanted, and told us bread couldbe purchased, at six skillings a loaf. She was a neatly dressed, intelligent little girl, and we gave her 3 skillings for her information; she at once seized our hand, and said tak; soon afterwards she went into a house on the roadside.
There were nothing but inclosures for some distance. The evening was rapidly closing; on we pushed: no camp ground; still we hurried along. We were now on a part of the road recently made, and must shortly sleep somewhere. At last, just at dark, a small driftway was noticed, to a narrow strip of new-mown turf, between the road, and the lake. No time for hesitation; the donkeys were quickly driven down to the turf. Some high bushes formed a screen from the road, and a shelter for ourselves. A boat was moored on the sandy beach near. The donkeys were at once unloaded in a quiet corner, a fire was lighted on the shore, and our water quickly boiled.121Zachariah was on the look-out for Noah, who soon came with three loaves of bread, which had cost a mark. The tents were at once pitched. Our gipsies made short work of tea, bread and cheese. “Let’s gell to our woodrus,”122said Noah. “Cushty ratti,”123said we; and they were soon asleep. It was a dark murky night, as we sat by thedying embers of our fire. Gradually the rain increased, and we retired to our tent. The turf had been newly mown, and was delicious to rest upon. We listened to the boat rising and falling on the waves, as they dashed in the night wind, on the sandy shore. It had rained heavily during the night, accompanied by lightning. Between two and three o’clock in the morning we were up, the morning was dark and cloudy, with misty rain. Fire was lighted; Noah warmed up some simmin (gip., soup),124saved from yesterday’s middags-mad; we had also tea, and bread and cheese—an odd combination—which was hastily disposed of. The top of a house could be seen on the other side the road, close above us: the inhabitants little thought they had visitors sleeping just below them. It is probable that they would be sorely puzzled, when they went for the boat’s paddles, in the bushes behind our tent, to see the impression on the turf—the impression left by our sleeping forms. Perhaps they might think, some Huldre or fairy had been there: at any rate, we did not wait to elucidate the occurrence, which may be involved in mystery to this day. At five o’clock, animals, baggage, and gipsies were well on the road towards Finsand.
There was something exciting in our wanderings. Our animals still continued quite equal to their work, and every day decreased the weight of the commissariat; the weight they had to carry was now much lighter. At eight o’clock we halted on the margin of an open bay of the Spirilen Lake, near some houses. As we were having another meal of cold bacon, meat, and bread and cheese, and tea, we saw the steamer pass down thelake from Nœs. A woman and a man came and wanted to buy one of the donkeys.
At nine o’clock, we were again on the move towards Somdalen. Then we came to a narrow channel of the lake, through which the steamers pass to the Aadals Elv. The road, after passing through Somdalen, continued through fir-forests, and pleasant scenes. At one part of the forest, we saw some wood pigeons, and at another, a jackdaw. When we had passed Somdalen, we halted again; our rest was on a greensward surrounded by a stream, in an open space below the road, surrounded by a wood. It was a nice secluded spot. We halted at a quarter to twelve; the sun was warm and pleasant; we had tea, fried ham, and bread. Esmeralda’s spirits were in the ascendant. We left at twenty-five minutes to two o’clock. Our way was through beautiful forests, which reminded us of some of the wild scenes of Australia. As to Mephistopheles, he was buzzing about like a butterfly; we nearly crushed him once or twice.
At last we came to a large farm on the borders of the forest, by Ytre Aadalen Val. The road led from the forest, over a rise of open cultivated ground, near a large and convenient gaard. We had lingered behind. As we again came up with our gipsies, they were passing over the cultivated land near the gaard. The master of the Bondegaard, a stout man, and apparently his wife and two daughters, and a large retinue of dependants, were grouped to see us pass. They surveyed us with curiosity, but did not speak. Scarcely had our gipsies got out of hearing, than one of the dependants was the subject of severe criticism.
“Look at that country gorgio,” said Mephistopheles.
“Ha,ha!” said Esmeralda; “why, he’s a kok-y-yock” (cock-eye).
“No,” said Noah; “that’s our varnon.”125
“O nei! O nei!” said Mephistopheles; “peen giære, peen giære!”
Somebody was extinguished, and order was restored. Gipsies, as a rule, not being educated, and having a great amount of gaiety, and physical energy, in default, occasionally, of rational conversation, seize upon circumstances, and things, of the most minor importance, to occupy their attention, in a warfare of Romany chaff against everyone, and everything, with singular expression, tempered with strange energy, and lively spirit.
The master of the Bondegaard was exceedingly stout, and we reasoned afterwards, upon the inconvenience of being so stout, and the advantage of a gipsy life, in keeping the body, in its proper symmetrical proportions.
Now we are in the forest again, and this portion of our route, is much more beautiful than we expected. The Spirilen does not rival many of the Norwegian lakes, though there are many pleasant scenes along its shores.
At this part of our route we saw some of the most lofty spruce-fir we had seen during our wanderings in Norway.
We were now fast coming towards Heen, where the steamer meets, we were told, the railway to the Rands Fjord.
Through the forest we went. Esmeralda, who was solively at our last halt, seemed getting tired, and wanted to ride, but our camp rule did not allow it. Again, we hoped soon to halt: the heroine of our book was not to be neglected, and lost by the way, for the want of care and proper attention.
Soon after we descended a steep declivity in the forest, and came upon a charming glade on a stream, which, we believe, is called the Vœls Elv. At the foot of the declivity, flowed its shallow stream of water. On the left of the forest-way, before we reached the stream, we saw some open green turf, secluded by clumps of forest trees, and beyond, and on all sides, a woodland of apparently interminable forest, as far as the eye could reach. ’Twas a lovely spot for the tired Esmeralda to repose.
The tents were put up at once in the open glade, near the flowing stream. We were soon engaged writing letters. Esmeralda was washing at a fire near a clump of trees, not far from the stream. Noah was making a basket. A tall blacksmith, as we supposed him to be, carrying a rifle, came to our tents. He told us there were wolves, and bears in the forest. Then we had afterwards, a party of three gentlemen, and a lady; they were very nice people. One dark, good-looking young gentleman, spoke English. We were pleased to see them at our tents. They inspected our camp, Russian lamp, cooking apparatus, and our donkeys. They seemed much pleased. It would have given us pleasure to have known more of them.
It was, indeed, a beautiful camping-ground, in a large wild forest. Our fourth meal this day—for we had crowded on considerable sail—consisted of tea, sardines, bread and cheese. At nine o’clock, all were resting inour tents. It is noted in our impressions, that the evenings get colder and shorter, chilly and damp.
Friday, the 19th of August; we are again stirring at twenty minutes past three o’clock. Up rise our three gipsies, in the wild Norwegian forest:en avantis the word.
As we were standing by our camp-fire, we heard footsteps; a man and a boy appeared at that early hour, to see our donkeys. They were astonished to find anyone already up and moving.
The frokost consisted of tea, biscuits, and cheese. Our donkeys loaded, we moved off at six o’clock. Noah left his unfinished basket on our camp-ground, as a souvenir. Soon we passed under the arch of the Rands Fjord Railway. Then the road lay through enclosures, and we came in sight of Hönefos.
Before we entered the town of Hönefos, we cautioned Mephistopheles, as to propriety of conduct. It was, perhaps, about nine o’clock; many people came out of their houses, and anxiously inquired what the donkeys were. Mephistopheles called for a glass of sherry, and imitated a drunken man, until he was called to attention. A civil Norwegian coming up, we inquired for the Postaabneri and a krambod.
Keeping Noah with us, we sent the donkeys and baggage through the town, in care of Esmeralda and Zachariah. Coming into a sort of square, our first visit was the post-office; we went into a court-yard, and entering the back of a house, we soon found ourselves in a small room, with a kind of bank counter, behind which sat a respectable-looking, pale, intelligent man. By his side, he had an ear-trumpet, for he wasdeaf; behind him, he had shelves, filled with books; on his long table, he had writing materials, documents, and papers relating to his duties. He spoke in English with a very good accent; we wrote our answers, for he was deaf. The postage of our English letter, was sixteen skillings, and four skillings each for our letters to Christiania. Readily giving us some information, about the steamers with mails from Christiania, we left our civil postmaster. The war seemed the all-engrossing topic of the time, and we had, of course, some converse on the subject.
Our next visit was to the shop, where we bought five pounds of sugar, for three marks eight skillings; five loaves of bread, for one mark six skillings; and, at a baker’s, we bought two loaves of bread, for eight skillings and six cakes for six skillings.
Hönefos is a spirited town, and a pretty one. Crossing the Hönefos Bridge we soon rejoined our baggage. As we ascended a hill, and continued our route along the new road, which is being made, we had a beautiful view of the town.
A French gentleman, who was driving towards the Hönefos, had asked Esmeralda and Zachariah, if they were French.
Soon afterwards we came to an iron mile-stone, marked five miles to Christiania og Dramen (thirty-five English miles).
Then we saw Norderhoug church. It is large, as compared with many of the Norwegian churches we had seen. The parsonage and village have an air of substantial comfort. Geese and ducks, and cherry-trees were seen for the first time during our wanderings inNorway. This village is noted for the destruction of a small Swedish force, which was quartered at the Parsonage House in 1716.
Still following onwards along our route, we came to enclosed lands, which appeared quite as fertile as any we had seen. Here and there, the harvest people would hurry towards the road fence, to catch a sight of our donkeys, as they passed. Some asked one question, some another. Our gipsies answered wildly any Norwegian word at hand, or ya! ya! Now we meet a carriage and pair, and the gentleman takes off his hat, which we of course acknowledge.
At length we halt on the right of the road on the hill above “Vik Station,” on some rocky open ground.
It was twelve o’clock. Our gipsies obtained some water for our tea at the Vik Station from their private supply. A servant girl, and man, with some children from the station, brought our donkeys some grass. It was a kindly thought. The sun was warm as we sat amid the rocks and heath. Whatever faults our gipsies have they are not tainted with Fenianism or Communistic ideas. They have ever held for Monarchy, and even among themselves, they have from time to time, their kings and queens. Our gipsies are extremely ignorant of political philosophy. They do know that her Majesty Queen Victoria, is the Queen of England. The names of Disraeli and Gladstone had not yet reached them.126They have no Romany words for politicalregeneration; they take no interest in the rights of man. Let them follow their wild nomadic life, they are satisfied. The Queen has worse subjects than our gipsies. It is possible that tall Noah, would answer a political philanthropist, much in the words of the “needy knife-grinder,”—“I shall be glad to drink your honour’s health, in a pot of beer, if you will give me sixpence, but, for my part, I never love to meddle with politics, sir.”
It is probable that tall Noah might be answered in the well-known words of the philanthropist,—“Wretch, whom no sense of wrongs can rouse to vengeance; sordid, unfeeling reprobate, degraded, spiritless outcast!”
Then we can only say it would be very inconvenient for the philanthropist, if he was within a mile of tall Noah’s tent.
Our middags-mad consisted of tea, bread, butter, and cheese.127At half-past three o’clock we were once moreen routefor the Krogkleven. Descending the hill by the Vik Station, the master of the station came out. We halted the donkeys for him to see them. He is a very pleasant man. The station seems very comfortable. It is mentioned, that there is good fishing near.
Reaching the shore of the Steens Fjord, a storm seemed to be gathering. Then, as we came to a fisherman’s house, and saw him leave with his boat, and nets, we deemed it a sure harbinger of calm weather. Soon after the threatened storm cleared away. We crossed the bridge over the Steens Fjord to Sundvolden.
The magnificent cliffs of the Krogkleven were now above us. A man pointed out the Kongen’s Udsigt or King’s View. At Sundvolden they accommodate travellers. The house seems large and commodious. They have a pleasure garden, with a small fountain, but we observed that the garden lacked taste in arrangement, and freshness, and beauty in flowers.
When our cavalcade passed the large open space in front of the station, a tall, pale, young Norwegian, apparently belonging to the house, said to Noah, with some authority, “Hvor fra reisen de.”128Noah, who was in advance, probably did not understand, or as usual, did not answer every inquisitive question, and kept pushing on. Immediately after we commenced the steep ascent to the heights of the Krogkleven. It is generally said, that the ascent to the Kongen’s Udsigt takes about an hour. Very shortly afterwards, we were overtaken by the pale young Norwegian, with an elder companion, who took off his hat, and bowed. He said, in excellent English, that he had seen an account of us in the newspapers. He owned a farm in the neighbourhood, and wished to buy one of our donkeys. Explaining that we had already promised one as a present, and that we should probably take the other two to England, after a short conversation he left. The road was most picturesque. It would have been a sad omission, had we left Norway, without returning by this route. In about three-quarters of an hour, we reached the house at the top of the gorge. A woman lives in the house, which being near the King and Queen’s View, is used for the temporary reception of travellers, andpic-nic parties. From the large open space, at the summit of the ascent, the main road, now level and flat, passes through the forest towards Christiania. A track leads through the woods on one side to the Kongens Udsigt,129and on the other to the Dronning’s Udsigt.130At the summit of the ascent near the house, a large board is fixed up, upon which is painted the figure of a navvy, with his spade; an iron box is placed under, with a narrow slit, to receive money, for the benefit of the men who made the road. We readde haute voix, for the satisfaction of Esmeralda, the following inscription:—