Where is the little gipsy’s home?Under the spreading greenwood tree,Wherever she may roam,Where’er that tree may be;Roaming the world o’er,Crossing the deep blue sea,She finds on every shoreA home among the free!A home among the free,Ah, voilà la gitana, voilà la gitana.
Where is the little gipsy’s home?Under the spreading greenwood tree,Wherever she may roam,Where’er that tree may be;Roaming the world o’er,Crossing the deep blue sea,She finds on every shoreA home among the free!A home among the free,Ah, voilà la gitana, voilà la gitana.
Drama, of “Notre Dame.”ByHalliday.
PURCHASES—ZACHARIAH’S TROUBLE—ESMERALDA’S PHOTOGRAPH—THE KIÖD—PRICE OF MEAT—THE YACHTSMEN—THE THREE PEAKS—THE SPIRIT-WORLD—FROST BITES—ULTIMA THULE—ESMERALDA GALVANISED—THE FJORD—HEEN KIRKE—PARELIUS—EIDER DUCKS—BEAUTIFUL BOUQUETS.
Our gipsies had breakfast ready soon after 7 o’clock, and taking Noah with us, we found Mr. L. at Veblungsnœs. With his assistance we obtained from an excellent general shop, the only one of the kind apparently in Veblungsnœs, two bottles of very good port wine, for one dollar two marks twelve skillings, twelve pounds of brown sugar, for one dollar four skillings, or about eight shillings and eight pence English money; some brimstone and treacle for the gipsies, soap, and some small items came to another dollar. The owner of the shop, which contained a variety of almost everything, had acounting-house attached, where he changed for us a ten-pound Bank of England note, into a quantity of small money of the country. We forget his name. All tradesmen should have their name and address printed at the head of their bills, and give one on all occasions, so that chance customers may have some means of reference and recommendation. Noah was heavily weighted; more bread cost two marks four skillings, and some sundries, and gurnet for dinner, made our expenditure nearly another dollar. Mr. L. had read much in English, and, although he had never been in England, conversed with great ease and fluency in the English language. We returned to our camp, to meet Herr Solberg, the photographer.
The day was beautiful, Herr Solberg was ready with his apparatus. The photographer came from Molde; he is a tall, pale, quiet, intelligent man. Esmeralda had put our things ready, so that our toilette was soon made. As to herself, she was resplendent in the blue dress, plaid braid, and silver buttons. Her brothers had very few additions they could make, but Noah contrived to buy at Veblungsnœs a paper front and collar, which gave him immense satisfaction. Zachariah was in a melancholy temper; no one had bought him a churie (gip. shut-knife) at Veblungsnœs. His existence was blurred, his cheerfulness clouded, and his smile was gone.
THE ENGLISH GIPSIES’ CAMP AT VEBLUNGSNŒS.
THE ENGLISH GIPSIES’ CAMP AT VEBLUNGSNŒS.
About 12 o’clock Herr Solberg took his first stereoscopic view. Mr. L., some ladies, and one of our former visitors, a Norwegian captain and his son and children, came to our camp. The stereoscopic view was pronounced perfect. The donkeys were a success, and the wooded hill above our camp came out withthe background exceedingly well. Another photograph of ourselves, tents and donkeys, was afterwards made, and also a carte de visite of Esmeralda, standing under a birch-tree, with her tambourine in her hand. On her finger is a silver ring, presented to her by one of our friends, as a memento of Veblungsnœs. As the ladies sat on the grass looking on, we set our musical-box to play near them, and so the day passed until 3 o’clock, when the sun having been too high and powerful for a good single photograph, Herr Solberg left us to have our dinner, and to return again at 4 o’clock. Our gurnet was very good, but exceedingly reduced in substance in boiling. Upon Herr Solberg’s return, he took another successful photograph of our camp, and left. The donkeys are very difficult to take, but by a happy chance they were exceedingly quiet at the right moment. The engraving now given, is taken from Herr Solberg’s photograph of our gipsy camp at Veblungsnœs.
Noah was soon required on duty. Having sufficient time before tea, we went to Veblungsnœs, and bought some sealing-wax and glue, whilst Noah went to a spirit store, kept by an old man, who had all the appearance of a jovial Bacchanalian. Two or three bottles of aquavit, or brændeviin, a sort of corn brandy, was bought by Noah. We afterwards imagined the bottles were filled with the dregs of one of the casks, perhaps, the brandy was therefore more potent. Certain impurities floating about did not inspire confidence. It was inferior to that we had purchased from the steward of the steamer at Lillehammer. The brandy was intended for our peasant visitors at camp. We were annoyed, but found they were not very squeamish, andseemed to like it; yet we wished to give them the very best, and were always ready to give the highest price.
Meat, or as it is called in Norwegian, kiöd, is not very obtainable. No butchers’ shops are to be met with at Veblungsnœs. No joints of meat hanging up for sale. Mr. L. believed that a large ox had been killed for the funeral of a substantial bonde, residing at a large house, on the high-road near Veblungsnœs church, and he would inquire. We had just returned to our camp when we received a letter from Mr. L. and went with the bearer to the bondegaard. They could let us have ten or fifteen pounds of beef, at ten skillings per pound. We went up some steps from the road to the house-door; but the atmosphere was too close for us to remain inside. Going with a man to a door at one end of the house, he entered a kind of cellar, and we were shown the meat in a cask. They kindly sold us ten pounds of the beef, which Noah took away. We paid four marks four skillings, or three shillings and nine pence English money value. Being uncertain when we should have another chance of buying fresh meat, we thought it desirable to save our stores as much as possible.
Visitors were at our tents when we returned for tea. Sounds of voices speaking nautical English met our ear: the skipper of the yacht “Claymore” introduced himself, with one of the yacht’s crew and their Norwegian pilot. The skipper said two or three young English gentlemen were cruising with their yacht, and she was at anchor in the Fjord67near Veblungsnœs. The yacht had reached Christiansand about the time we reachedChristiania. We gave them some brandy, and the skipper seemed quite delighted to see anyone who could talk English. He told us they had an ancient claymore for a figure-head on board, and three dogs and a monkey. On leaving they said we might probably come to see the yacht before she left.
The Norwegian Sunday commences at 5 o’clock on Saturday afternoon. As usual, we determined not to allow any music in the evening, and we heard afterwards, the farmer, who was very scrupulous upon the observance of the Sunday, was much pleased.
When our Visitors from the “Claymore” were gone we were ready for tea. Zachariah was unable to eat any of the fried meat. Our can of water was boiled, and our beef fried, at our camp fire, at the bottom of the grassy knoll, on which our tents were pitched. A clear, winding, narrow brook, shaded by alder and birch bushes, rippled below us; the grass was short, having been newly mown, and the hay was taken away. A fine bold mountain rose before us, with rocky peaks, as we looked from Veblungsnœs. The summer’s sun had not melted all its winter snow. Its three peaks were called the King, Queen, and Bishop. After tea Captain C. came by our tentsen routeto the telegraph office. All were anxious to hear tidings of the war. Mr. L. coming to our camp soon after, told us the news, and we all walked together to Aak.
The walk from our camp to Aak must have been about two miles. Mr. L. conversed with a young Norwegian gentleman who joined us, and we sauntered along with Captain C. The calm stillness of the Norwegian evening was very refreshing. By some chanceour conversation turned upon ghost lore as one of our subjects. Each had our idea. Captain C. related one or two singular instances of undoubted occurrences. Wraiths, it has been said, may be accounted for by the wave of thought in distant manifestation. The body in one place and the spirit in another; voices as sounds seemingly distinct, sometimes heard through the wide distance between two souls inseparable. Before departure from the world, the spirit sometimes manifests itself to some loved friend. The wraith has accomplished its mission, and it is gone for ever. People who dwell with Nature seem peculiarly susceptible to such influences. In the regions of the mightiest works of our Creator’s hand, we find them naturally most prone to such impressions. Gipsies are not without their experiences on such subjects. More than one instance has found a place in our gipsy lore.
We have reached Aak, our discussion on a variety of subjects, ends in our finding ourself in a most comfortable room, hung round by photographs of Norwegian scenery, and seated at a small table, quaffing a glass of sparkling baiersk öl. The presence of English travellers was evident, from a marked attention to ventilation. A tidy pige, or waiting-girl, with quiet manner, and ready attention, attended to some travellers, who were taking their evening meal, at a long table near us. All was cleanliness and comfort at Aak.
Our stay at Aak was brief. We returned to our tents with Mr. L., who was full of information about his country. Those who are accustomed to our English climate, can scarcely realize the length of a Norwegian winter. It is very cold at Veblungsnœs, from about themiddle of September to the middle of March. All that we now saw before us, so pleasant and smiling, would in a short time be covered with a white fleecy mantle of deep snow. Many scarcely venture out from September to March, and the cold winds sometimes produce on the face, not inured to continued exposure, what is called the Rose. It is a pink tinge upon the countenance, which in some is not altogether a blemish. Frost-bites and chilblains are of course the occasional result of so much cold. Frost-bites should be rubbed at once with snow. The oil from reindeer cheese is said to be a cure for frost-bites. Although the cold is intense at times, the atmosphere is dry and not unhealthy. If the Norwegian summer were twice the length, Norway would be a paradise.
The morning was windy, Noah’s tent was almost blown over. Our breakfast consisted of tea and bread and butter. Esmeralda was not well; Zachariah was still afflicted with a churie (gip., shut-knife) monomania. Two days’ inactivity, and extra good living, was evidently plunging our gipsies, into the depths of biliousness. It was in vain we had dosed Zachariah with brimstone and treacle, until he was a qualified inmate for Dotheboys’ Hall, and a fortnight with Wackford Squeers, would have done him an immense amount of good. Noah was always lively. A few hours’ rapid movement would restore all.
With all their waywardness, and restlessness of spirit, we had the elements for rapid action, and a physical energy, with which to push through any obstacle. Veblungsnœs, it was determined, should be our Ultima Thule, and striking our tents on Monday morning, weshould seek new scenes in the wild Norwegian fjelds. Still wandering south—still on our homewards route, our little band of hardy nomads, would have to brace themselves to fresh exertion. What a vast expanse of mountain, glen and forest lay before us, which we must traverse, before we again reached the sea.
At half-past nine o’clock Esmeralda was ready to accompany me to Veblungsnœs. She looked well in her blue dress, plaid braid, and silver buttons, and her heavy boots were blacked and shining, specially for the visit. As we entered the avenue of trees all was quiet and repose. A Sunday in England could not have been more calm, and free from busy turmoil and bustle. The town of Veblungsnœs seemed to have a perpetual Sunday, for it was the same on week days; there was nothing dull, or dreary about the place, yet there was nothing to see in it; it possessed an indefinable charm, arising out of its attempt at nothing. We left it as we found it, to be remembered with pleasure.
Esmeralda had been promised to see the telegraphic apparatus. Our word to our gipsies was always relied upon by them; if it was said to them, it was done. Mr. L. was ready to receive us, and the apparatus was explained, and Esmeralda was electrified. With a present of a quantity of strawberries from Mr. L. she departed for our camp, whilst Mr. L. arranged for our departure in a boat to see the “Heen Kirke,” on the Isfjord.
The Isfjord is a fine expanse of water. Our two oarsmen were ready, strong hardy men, chewing tobacco without intermission, and spitting perpetually. Their pallor of countenance may have been produced by immoderatechewing. The yacht, “Claymore,” was resting at anchor; the owners of the craft were enjoying a sporting tour. There is a great enjoyment of independence in a yacht cruise. Norway is admirably adapted for yachting; but our time was limited, and getting the wind, our sail was hoisted, and we soon left Veblungsnœs in the distance. Gentle slopes rise from the margin of the Fjord for a short distance, dominated by lofty steeps and rising hills; here and there small log houses, being the residences of the peasant owners, come into view. The small property round each, is their farm.
The cost of an ordinary sized farm on the shores of the Fjord, would average about 600 to 700 dollars, or about £157. 10s. English money, according to the size of the farm. Few attempts are ever made to give to the Bondegaard, the picturesque appearance of the Swiss cottage. With very little more expense and labour, the Norwegian peasant’s cottage, might be made exceedingly pretty, and ornamental.
The “Heen Kirke” had no unusual attraction in itself; one Norwegian church is so like another. No old monuments to please the antiquarian taste; no mediæval tombs; no brasses, Norman arches, Saxon doorways, and decorated windows; no corbels, bosses, and grotesque imagery of ancient stone sculpture; no tesselated pavement, and richly ornamented cloisters, dark with age, and dim with poetic light. No peel of bells, and massive tower covered with ivy, resorted to by owls, and jackdaws. No ecclesiastical library of black-lettered books, curiously and substantially bound, in dark and dusty covers, crammed into shelves, and forgotten insome corner of the vestry. The worm-eaten oak chest was wanting also, containing well-thumbed registers and sacramental plate, secured by three large locks, one for the vicar and one for each of the churchwardens. The Norman stone font, with elaborate carving was absent. The crypt and sedilia,68were not to be found, and a chained Bible we did not see.69Yet, withal, the people are earnest in their prayer, their ways are those of peace, and their pastors appear to hold the affections of their flock.
We had a beautiful view of the “Kavlee Fjeld” as we returned. Stretching forests of pine extended beyond the head of the Fjord. On our left we saw the once abode of “Parelius,” a wild spot beneath a precipice, near the margin of the Fjord. Parelius was a great linguist. No one appears to have chronicled his linguistic skill, though he learned a living language, which few if any can. Even the Parisien of the Jardin des Tuileries, whose command over birds is wonderful, did not seem to know their language; even Mademoiselle Vanderschmeck, could not rival Parelius, who lived in the solitary Bondegaard, on the shore of the Isfjord. Parelius conversed with birds; he is said to have known their language. On one occasion some peasants asked him, when he was in another parish, away from home,what the crows hard by were saying—“They say,” said Parelius, “that a bear has just killed one of my oxen, and must go home.” He returned to verify his loss. Whilst Parelius was from home one day, an avalanche from the precipice above, destroyed his house. We were told he lived some fifty years ago. Parelius is gone—the house is gone. Whether he was a native of Veblungsnœs we cannot say. No record appears to have been made of this eminent man, some account of his life, scanty though it be, may rescue his name from oblivion.
The fjords of this coast are well stocked with fish, and the islands and rocks with wild fowl. The eider ducks are numerous; their nests are made on the ground, and the down is taken from the nest after it is placed there by the bird. About half-a-pound of down is taken from each nest, which is reduced to a residue of about a quarter-of-a-pound for sale or use; a very small quantity of the down is sufficient to stuff a coverlet; its wonderful lightness and warmth renders it extremely valuable. There is now a law for the protection of the eider duck; they may not be caught or killed from 15th April to 15th August.70
Fiva is said to have the best salmon fishing on the Rauma. We had a fresh wind on the Fjord as we returned. Birch twigs are used as fastenings for the boat sail instead of rope, in fact, the birch twigs, or withes, are substituted for rope in every variety of way. After a pleasant cruise we landed, and left our friend, and reached our camp with an excellent appetite.
Our dinner consisted of soup, meat, and bread and butter. Esmeralda was unwell and could not eat anything. Zachariah was still murmuring about the churie (shut knife) no one had bought for him. He received a lecture; the shadows of his future were forcibly set before him.
After dinner the “Lehnsmœnd’s” lady from Aak, and her two daughters came to see the donkeys. A very beautiful bouquet of flowers she brought for our acceptance. Lady Di Beauclerk, in her Journal,71speaks of the beautiful flowers of Aak. Whilst our visitor and her daughters sat in our tents, we sent for the donkeys, which were much admired. Zachariah was presented with a box of ornaments before they left. So our visitors came and went in succession during the evening, and our first idea of strict seclusion, by camping in private ground, we found an illusory dream.
These prophecies are repeated, particularly by Ezekiel, many times almost in the same words in different chapters (see particularly the whole of the 30th and 32nd), as if he were desirous in an especial manner to enforce them. These denunciations and prophecies, then, seem clearly to establish three distinct important events to the Egyptians—first, their complete conquest and dispersion; secondly, their remaining dispersed, without idols, among all nations and countries, in the open fields, during forty years; and, finally, their being again brought to the land of their habitation, where they shall be taught to know the Lord.The Gipsies.72BySamuel Roberts.
These prophecies are repeated, particularly by Ezekiel, many times almost in the same words in different chapters (see particularly the whole of the 30th and 32nd), as if he were desirous in an especial manner to enforce them. These denunciations and prophecies, then, seem clearly to establish three distinct important events to the Egyptians—first, their complete conquest and dispersion; secondly, their remaining dispersed, without idols, among all nations and countries, in the open fields, during forty years; and, finally, their being again brought to the land of their habitation, where they shall be taught to know the Lord.
The Gipsies.72BySamuel Roberts.
OUR GUIDE—TO THE MOUNTAINS—MYSTIC LIGHT—THE PHOTOGRAPHS—THE CLAYMORE YACHT—NORWEGIAN GIPSIES—SINGULAR RACE—OCCUPATIONS—GIPSY BURIALS—ROMANTIC LOVE—PREDESTINATION—THE BONDEGAARD—THE HIGH DEMAND—ESMERALDA’S SOUVENIR.
A note was soon after placed in our hands, by a broad-shouldered thickset muscular man, rather under middle height, with a thick sandy almost red beard; his small quick eye betokened alertness, and self-possession, his countenance expressed good temper, fidelity, and rectitude. It was not necessary to look again, as we took the note. He was a broad-chested, sturdy reindeer hunter, of the Fjeld; the note was an introduction given by Mr. L. the bearer was Ole Halvorsen, or as he is usuallycalled Ole Rödsheim, from the name of his station and land in Bœverdal. A certificate of strong recommendation by two English gentlemen, for whom he had recently acted as guide, and had lately parted from, was also given us. Captain C.‘s name was also used with his permission. We at once liked Ole Rödsheim; his quiet manner, and appearance, was so different from many of the “Tolks,” and guides, who are often more trouble, and expense than use; most of them would sneeze for an hour, at the idea of sleeping on some damp heath, under a rock during a windy wet night, near the exhilarating influence of a cold snow field; such were not the men for our expedition, and Ole Rödsheim was. After a careful inspection of our maps, we soon arranged in our minds, the course for our future expedition after we left Veblungsnœs. The summit of the Galdhœpiggen, the Mörkfos, and the valders, with a long route through many Mountain and Lake scenes, we proposed to accomplish. Ole Rödsheim spoke good English, and the following arrangement was soon concluded; he was to join us near Molmen, and guide our party over the mountains, to Skeaker, Lom, and Rödsheim, and ascend with us the Galdhöpiggen, for the sum of three dollars and a half, finding himself board and lodging; his services afterwards, if required, to be 4 marks a day, including everything. Deciding to make a forced march, and travel in two days what we had before travelled in four, we agreed to be at the Böver Moen (Beaver stream) between Stueflaaten and Molmen on the following Wednesday morning.
VEBLUNGSNŒS,WITH CHURCH, FJORD, AND MOUNTAIN OF THE THREE PEAKS, “THE KING, QUEEN, AND BISHOP.”
WITH CHURCH, FJORD, AND MOUNTAIN OF THE THREE PEAKS, “THE KING, QUEEN, AND BISHOP.”
With what pleasure we looked forward to fresh scenes of travel and adventure in even wilder scenes of naturethan those we had yet traversed. Those we had seen were very beautiful; each camp seemed to eclipse the last, in the beauty of its scenery. On those still clear Norwegian nights, full of mystic light, lovely in their starlight stillness, the mind seemed enthralled, in a thousand pleasing fancies; the music of the waterfall; the voices on the breeze. The melody of nature, produced impressions we can never forget.
Norway is not the country for the sybarite, fainéant, and the flâneur; it is the home of the hardy mountaineer, the angler, the reindeer hunter, and nomad wanderer, the lover of nature and nature’s works in her wildest and most beautiful forms.
Plants, mosses of every hue, trees, rocks, glaciers, torrents, lakes, fjords, waterfalls, mountains, woods, and glens, are, in their perfection, met at every step, in Norway’s free romantic land.
When Mr. L. came to our camp in the evening with Herr Solberg, we arranged for our photographs, and paid for them. The views of Romsdalshorn, Veblungsnœs, and Troldtinderne, from which the engravings in this book are taken, had yet to be completed specially for us. They were afterwards forwarded; Herr Solberg was allowed the privilege of disposing of the stereoscopic view of our gipsy camp, and the carte de visite of Esmeralda. The specimens he brought to show us, were presented to Esmeralda.
Our last walk with Mr. L. is taken by the Isfjord. As a parting souvenir we gave him an illustrated copy of Her Majesty the Queen of England’s Journal, with which he was much interested; Mr. L. added much to the pleasure of our visit to the quaint old town of Veblungsnœs.When shall we meet again? So it is in this world; we meet and we part, but fortunately the memory retains friendship’s recollection not so easily effaced.
From the Isfjord, near Veblungsnœs, the farm was pointed out to us where Colonel Sinclair, who perished at the Kringelen, landed with his forces.
The church of Veblungsnœs is represented in the engraving of the town. There was nothing remarkable about this church to note. A newly dug grave was prepared in the churchyard for the deceased Bondegaard, who had resided near. If it happens that the clergyman cannot attend when the corpse is buried no delay occurs; the service is read over by the clergyman at some future time, when he attends for church service. The yacht Claymore added a charm to our evening contemplation of the Isfjord. Noah said he had seen one of the gentlemen of the yacht on shore, who had that day ascended the mountain above our camp.
Our stay was now nearly ended. Hitherto our travels had through every difficulty, been most successful; we had scarcely lost anything; the two hats, musketo veil, and kettle prop we could manage without. Mr. L. told us that two young Norwegian friends who had made an excursion, came to him with scarcely anything left; they had forgotten some article at nearly every place they went to. With some trouble the things were again recovered. When the travellers departed, they again contrived to leave behind them an umbrella and a pair of galoshes.
Some of the Norwegian gipsies usually attend the October fair at Veblungsnœs. The women are very handsome, and some of the men. When they attend the fair,the women drink even more than the men. They are very fond of music, and at the fairs, when they have drunk to excess, are very quarrelsome and passionate. Under the Norwegian law any person who arrives at a certain age without being able to read or write, and who has not been confirmed, is liable to be committed to gaol. There they remain until they can read, write, and are properly instructed in religious knowledge. Many of the gipsies when examined by clergymen, have been found so ignorant, and without instruction, that they have from time to time been committed to prison, and detained there, till they came up to the standard of required proficiency. Prœsten Eilert Sundt had therefore good opportunities of seeing them, and conversing with them. The vocabulary of Romany words, as spoken by the Norwegian gipsies, which he has collected, with other information, is very valuable.73His mission seems to have been performed with much energy. The short résumé of his works, given in the appendix to this book, we had specially made for our English readers; it gives some idea of the state in which he found this wandering and singular people in Norway. The Storthing granted a large sum for the amelioration of their condition. We were told that some gipsies who had money given them, and were settled in farms on the shore of the Isfjord opposite Veblungsnœs, did not remain long, and, selling their farms, disappeared with the money. Many of the gipsies who attend the Veblungsnœs fair, when asked where they came from, say the Valders.This was one reason why we decided to return with our gipsies through that part of Norway. Notwithstanding, Prœsten Sundt’s account of their mode of life, and predilections, and the very unenviable notoriety they seem to have attained in Norway, we were certainly anxious to fall in with a band of these wanderers, so that our people might hold converse with them. We were told that some of the gipsies had land in the Valders! but it is very possible that the statement that they came from that part of Norway was an evasive reply. It is very seldom gipsies will give even their right names to curious questioners; as in other countries where they are found, and in very few they are not, they deal in horses and work in metals. The Norwegian gipsies are skilful workers in brass; we were told that they live in houses in the winter, the cold being too intense for them to travel with their tents.
The circumstance of the non-burial of the gipsy dead in the Norwegian churchyards, as stated by the Prœsten Sundt, is not confined exclusively to the gipsies of Norway. Baudrimont in his “Langue des Bohémiens,” as spoken by those living in the Basque provinces, says at page 27, “We know not what becomes of the gipsies who die; not the slightest trace of them is ever met with. This has given rise to the idea, that they turn the course of rivulets, and, digging a pit, place the body in the torrent’s bed, and again let the water resume its course.”
Francisque-Michel in his work, “Le Pays Basque,”74at page 143, says:—“‘I have noticed in many localities,’ said Monsieur le Vicomte de Belsunce, who was for aconsiderable period the mayor of a district, ‘that gipsy men and women of great age, long known to the present generation as old people, disappear suddenly, and never return. It is a common occurrence, and yet no labourer in the fields, or traveller on the roads, or shepherd, or hunter in the mountains, ever sees the trace of a grave.’”
And the same author says:—“Was Grellman75right, or was it true, as many assert, that these people turned the course of some brook whilst they made the grave, and turned the stream over it immediately afterwards? Such a burial would not leave any trace, and it was so they buried Attila, who followed, when he came into Europe, the same route as the gipsies.”
The more the gipsy element becomes mingled with other house-dwelling races the less strongly will they cling to their tents. We who have tried it must confess to a strange fascination in tent life. To our own knowledge we have known instances of gipsies who have married house-dwelling gorgios. One singular instance of romantic love was once narrated to me of a young gentleman of birth, who became so infatuated as to leave all for a handsome gipsy girl he met with. She left the neighbourhood of his home, but he could not rest, and, with a few things, followed and found her, and at last submitted for her sake to be her husband and adopt tent life. His end was sad. He was making some pegs for her to sell, but being unpractised in the art, and clumsy with his knife, it slipped and entered his thigh, probably severed the femoral artery, for he died soon after.
As long as much of the gipsy element remains, it is not probable that they can be bent to the steady pursuits of a stationary house-dwelling population. As well try to turn the falcon into a barn-door fowl; but Christian charity should lead us, if we cannot alter their nature, to aid in placing them in such course of life, as may best improve and raise their moral condition, without requiring them to sacrifice entirely, those strong and restless feelings, which seem inherent in their being, and the necessity of some mysterious law or predestination.
We sat out late by our tents, writing our notes; the long evenings of clear light, enabled us often to snatch those hours which in England, would be quite dark. The gipsies, before we retired to rest, had their dose of brimstone and treacle, and with many anticipations, we were soon buried in repose.
All was stir and bustle. Up, Noah!—up, Zachariah!—vand! All were moving before six. Eggs, bread, butter, and tea for breakfast. Esmeralda had been unwell all night. Our gipsies had been living well, and without their usual exercise. Esmeralda was evidently bilious. She had behaved very well, and was now deep in the mysteries of cooking and housekeeping.
The old farmer hovered near as if he was looking out for his quarry. We had scarcely seen him about before. We were uncertain when Mr. L. would come, and therefore mentioned to the farmer that we wished to pay him for our accommodation.
He led the way into his house, and we found ourselves in a little parlour, comfortably furnished, but without any ventilation: a picture of the death-bed of King Oscar in 1859, two prints of the Emperor Napoleon III. andthe Empress, and a German coloured print called Elise, and Our Saviour, were placed on the walls.
His daughter brought in a bottle of some wine or cordial, and a wine-glass, but we asked for a cup of coffee in preference. In answer to my request, the old man, who sat on the other side of the table, counted slowly on his fingers five marks—“Een thaler,” said he. It was what we expected, and proceeding to pay him, we pulled out three dollar notes. Not wishing to pay more of our silver away than we could help, we thought it a good opportunity to pay one of our dollar notes. Directly the old man saw the notes he suddenly counted three on his fingers, and raised his demand to “drei thalers.” It was of little consequence, and we paid him his demand, disgusted with his cupidity—three dollars, or 13s.6d.English money, which in Norway was equivalent to the rent of a cottage and ground for one year for a Huusmand. What different hospitality the wanderers met with from many not half so wealthy, who brought to our camp fladbröd for our acceptance. This, and the one at Lillehammer, were the only two instances we met with of any over-exaction in Norway. We were told afterwards that one dollar was amply sufficient.
We had almost loaded our donkeys when Mr. L. came; and at our wish a boatman brought up two very fine sea trout, for which we paid three marks and twelve skillings, and took them with us.
The militia were to commence their training at Veblungsnœs that morning. One of our former acquaintances, a Norwegian captain—a fine specimen of a thorough-going military man, erect and handsome, with his grey moustache—had come to see us off. Esmeralda stepped forward,and pinned some beautiful flowers, selected from the Aak bouquet, in Mr. L.’s coat. A copy of our song was left for Monsieur le Capitaine’s son; another for Frue Landmark, of Aak; and one for Herr Solberg; and two copies for Mr. L. to do what he liked with. The Chevalier had sent a very nice return telegram to us. Mr. L. and the Captain were astonished at the weight our donkeys carried. We wished the farmer’s wife and daughter and son good-by. The old man was absent, probably gloating over his sudden acquisition of wealth. His son and daughter were very quiet, respectable young people. The farm people collected on the ground, and, saluting each other with our hats, we left the camp, and passed up the wide lane leading to the main route. As we were disappearing over the edge of the ascent, we saw the Capitaine and his son still looking after us; they waved their hats as we vanished with a farewell signal in return.
ROMSDALSHORN,VIEW FROM NEAR “AAK.”
VIEW FROM NEAR “AAK.”
There is something remarkable in the eye of the Romany. Should his hair and complexion become as fair as those of the Swede or the Finn, and his jockey gait as grave and ceremonious as that of the native of Old Castile; were he dressed like a king, a priest, or a warrior, still would the Gitáno be detected in his eye, should it continue unchanged.... Its peculiarity consists chiefly in a strange, staring expression, which, to be understood, must be seen, and in a thin glaze which steals over it when in repose, and seems to emit phosphoric light. That the gipsy eye has sometimes a peculiar effect, we learn from the following stanza:—
There is something remarkable in the eye of the Romany. Should his hair and complexion become as fair as those of the Swede or the Finn, and his jockey gait as grave and ceremonious as that of the native of Old Castile; were he dressed like a king, a priest, or a warrior, still would the Gitáno be detected in his eye, should it continue unchanged.... Its peculiarity consists chiefly in a strange, staring expression, which, to be understood, must be seen, and in a thin glaze which steals over it when in repose, and seems to emit phosphoric light. That the gipsy eye has sometimes a peculiar effect, we learn from the following stanza:—
A gipsy stripling’s glossy eyeHas pierced my bosom’s core,A feat no eye beneath the skyCould e’er effect before.
A gipsy stripling’s glossy eyeHas pierced my bosom’s core,A feat no eye beneath the skyCould e’er effect before.
The Gipsies.BySamuel Roberts.
ADIEU AAK—ROMSDALSHORN—TROLDTINDERNE—FLADMARK—YOUNG-NORWEGIAN LADIES—OUR FAIR VISITORS—A NIGHT SCENE—MORNING MEAL—EXHAUSTED PEASANTS—ESMERALDA’S COMPLIMENT—A GIPSY CUISINE—HOW GIPSIES SLEEP—OUR GUIDE ARRIVES—THE INVISIBLE BATHER—THE RACE—THE RIVER GRÖNA.
We passed the quiet scenes of Aak and its beautiful scenery; we saw Captain C——, and some young ladies coming down to the road from the house. The charming terrace before the house and grounds are kept in excellent neatness and order. Frue Landmark also came down to see our donkeys again. Captain C. was going south, and might probably overtake us, but wedid not see him again.76Very useful indeed was the information he gave us. Frue Landmark, whom we saw in earnest conversation with Esmeralda, presented her with some ear-rings. So we made our adieux to all, and left a spot so pleasantly described by Lady Di Beauclerk. Her ladyship is the daughter of the ninth Duke of St. Albans, whose first wife was Mrs. Coutts, the once celebrated Miss Mellon, whose interesting memoirs were published some years since.
The sun was very warm. We were all in excellent spirits; who could be otherwise in the midst of so much free life? Herr Solberg, the photographer, met us, apparently looking for a Point de Vue. Then we passed Fiva, and a short distance beyond we halted in the old place among the green bushes, by the rippling stream, at the foot of the Romsdalshorn and Troldtinderne. Our dinner consisted of some of the boiled beef, fried with butter. It was about twelve o’clock; Zachariah was despatched trout-fishing. Esmeralda was better; some quinine in the morning had spirited her up. She was not allowed to be idle. As we bustled her about, she said she thought the Rye was in a murmuring way. Then, as we lounged note-book in hand, we had a chaff at Noah, who was half asleep, and woke up looking very wild, to be asked, what he would take for his paper front, and collar, for which he had given four skillings. The front was now all but gone. “What you like, sir,” said Noah, and heaving a deep sigh, fell back into the region of gipsy dreams sounder than ever. We looked in vain for the invalid visitor who was to take the place of RipVan Winkle, and somnolency resulting, who knows but we ourselves might not have been there now; but the good genii of the magician’s peaks awoke us. There were the dark fantastic rocks, streaked in gilded rays of the summer’s sun. The distant roar of thunder in the lofty precipices, produced by falling snow, sounded in the narrow gorge. Our donkeys had strayed; we aroused Noah from a deep sleep, who disappeared down the valley and brought them back. On his return, he said he had seen a number of gentlemen along the Rauma near Fiva, with guns and fishing-rods. It was nearly four o’clock. The donkeys were hastily loaded, and we were againen route. Zachariah was overtaken before we reached Horgheim, and had succeeded in catching twenty-three small trout. A young traveller and his wife came up in a stolkjœrre, and kept behind us till we got to Horgheim. They wanted us to stay there, so that they might get first on account of the donkeys, but we were pressed for time, and when they came up afterwards, their horse passed very quietly. The traveller, who was Norwegian, spoke English, and they appeared a newly-married couple. We passed our old camping-ground beyond “Horgheim,” and bought a mark’s worth of fladbröd from the woman of the house. Our old camp near the leaning-stone was our intended destination. At one part of the road we met a number of carrioles. A lady in a green Tyrolese hat and feather, who seemed unaccustomed to driving, was one of the party. As she passed, the pony shied, and the boy who stood upon the board behind her, with great quickness, seized the reins. “P-r-r-r-h—p-r-r-r-h,” said the boy, and away they dashed past us. The boy, afterwards, reined the pony up rathersharply; the pony reared, and the lady jumped out with a small scream; the gentleman we took for her husband bringing up the rear, passed quietly enough, and as no one was hurt, we again continued our way.
We passed Fladmark; our donkeys had not lost their interest to the peasantry; many collected to see them. Fladmark seems a large station and the scenery is very picturesque. In fact, at every turn we had fresh scenes to admire. When we had passed Kors and were drawing near our old camping ground, in passing through a gate on the road, our Puru Rawnee ran our packs against the gate-post, and broke a bottle of port wine. Noah and Zachariah caught some in the kettle lid, which they were allowed to drink. We did not feel inclined to take any ourselves. Esmeralda had a very small quantity, but the stimulant made her feel, she said, very queer. Then we followed on slowly with her, for she was rather tired, whilst Noah and Zachariah pushed on in advance. We were soon afterwards overtaken by a stolkjœrre; a man was driving two young ladies, and a young gentleman, their brother, was walking. They stopped after they had passed us, and seeing that they wished to speak, we addressed them. The one young lady, who spoke English very well, said they had come to Veblungsnœs by steamer, where they had heard of us, and had seen our song. They wished very much to see our “deer.” Many in Norway took our donkeys for a species of reindeer capable of carrying weights. The young ladies were very agreeable and good looking; something very charming about them. They seemed much interested in our expedition. Being told that our gipsies were in advance, and where we should encamp, they drove after them.
When Esmeralda and myself reached the leaning-stone in the valley of the Sjiriaglns Fjeld, it was getting dusk. The young ladies were looking at our things just unpacked, and Noah was putting up the tents on the old camp ground near the large rock. The young ladies wished to hear us play, but something to eat was a preliminary necessity before we could give them any music. They decided, therefore, to wait. The young ladies said, “We should much wish to hear you play; we heard of you at Veblungsnœs.” Our tents were soon pitched, and Zachariah, who had given up grumbling about his churie, got our tea and broiled meat ready with remarkable celerity. The young ladies said, “We should so like to sleep in a tent.” “Do you not find it cold?” “No,” we said, “We have a waterproof on the ground, and a carpet over that. It is all we require for our bed.” Then as we were going to tea in our tents the young ladies decided to take something to eat themselves at our camp fire.77They gave us some dried rein-deer meat, and we gave them some of our biscuit. Noah said they were such nice young ladies he could give them anything, and sent Esmeralda with his panakin of tea instead of having it himself. Esmeralda did not eat anything, and went and talked to them. Then we sent them bread-and-butter, and finished our tea. The young ladies sent their cards to our tents whilst we were at tea. Miss Grethe S——, of Halsund, and Miss Marie B——, of Molde. Then they came from the camp fire where they had finished their repast. The shades of evening had fallen; the sound of the waters of theRauma came upon the night. Their brother and the driver of their stolkjœrre joined them as they stood at our tents, in the valley of the cascades, of wild scenery, of all that was beautiful in nature. Much pleased they seemed, as they listened to our gipsy song, and still more pleased they appeared when we presented each with a copy. We played for them several airs with our guitar, violin, and tambourine. It was twelve o’clock when they left to go on to Ormein for the night. We had had a long day; as they left, I found that one of the young ladies had presented Noah with a cigar-holder. Soundly we slept, for we did not awake until eight o’clock. One of our sea trout fried in buttered writing paper was delicious for breakfast. We were just leaving, at twelve o’clock, when a drayman came up, and we gave him some brandy. He said an English gentleman was coming to Ostersund to fish in the “Glommen,” in August. The man said his son could speak English very well. For some time he followed us along the road, but at last we left him behind. The sun was exceedingly hot when we reached Ormein.78As we approached the station the two young ladies rushed out. One had two plates in her hand. They shook hands with all of us, and we had a very warm welcome indeed. Their brother brought some water for the donkeys. The young traveller and his wife were also there. A very enthusiastic reception we had. Miss S——, said, she had come there to meet a sister from Christiania. But time presses, we must away; the comfortable station must be left. With many adieux and godt reisen from theyoung ladies, we ascended the hilly road from the station and left the beautiful scenery which surrounds it.
Staying at our old camping-ground near the “Sœndre Sletten fossen,” we had our mid-day meal—tea, fladbröd, and butter. Noah and Zachariah played some music, whilst Esmeralda had some instruction in dancing. Between four and five o’clock our party were againen routeup the zig-zag hilly road, with Vand fos, rock, or forest, continually in view.
At one point of the road a man, woman, and child came running after us. They wished to see the donkeys. Noah and Zachariah were far on before. The peasants’ countenances were marked with an expression of earnest anxiety. The gipsies kept pushing on. Esmeralda said, “We can’t stop for every gorgio,” and away ran the man up the hill with his small boy tugging at his belt behind, and the wife following, ready to sink for want of breath. We came just in sight of our gipsies at a turn of the road, and shouted, when they at last halted very reluctantly.
The peasants, we were glad to see, reached them, but nearly exhausted with haste and fatigue. Some more people came from a house near, and brought some hay for the donkeys. We were anxious for our peasant friends to see the animals, and many were the questions they asked. When we talked of winter they seemed to shiver, and a shade of melancholy passed over their countenances. After a halt of about ten minutes we again continued our journey.
As we reached the summit of the hill near “Stueflaaten” the clouds threatened rain. At Stueflaaten station a delicate-looking woman with a stout childshowed us into the guest-chamber. There were two beds. The walls of the chamber were painted green and red. Some photographs also adorned the room, which was very clean, but to us the atmosphere was too close to be pleasant. They procured for us some butter, potatoes, and fladbröd, for which we paid three marks. They gave us full value for our money. The evening was wearing rapidly on as we left the station. Very soon after we met a carriage and pair, in which sat a dark-eyed traveller. His hair was jet black. Our gipsies had to look sharp to get our donkeys in single file, and as we brought up the rear with our alpenstock the traveller scanned our party with much curiosity. Esmeralda paid him the compliment afterwards of saying his hair was as dark as any Romany’s.
It was getting late, as dusty and travel-worn we came on to the open moorland by “Böver Möen.” This time we camped near two or three broken firs, not very far from the road, and near a hedge enclosing a thick wood. Very shortly after our gipsies had unloaded our things, and had lighted our fire, three fishermen, appeared in the distance coming towards us. One was better dressed than the others, and was the only wooden-legged man we saw in Norway. He was stout and portly. From his waistcoat he had suspended two small trout, the result of his fishing expedition. Each had some of our brandy-and-water, and drank to Gamle Norge. Some boys came afterwards and brought some grass for the donkeys. Then they watched our cooking with interest. Whilst Esmeralda was getting the potatoes ready, we fried some sea-trout in buttered writing-paper. Very much surprised they seemed at the luxury of ourcuisine. Then Esmeralda fried some fish in the ordinary way, and also some sliced potatoes. We enjoyed our tea on that open moorland, in sight of a foaming waterfall down the mountain-side by the Böverhö. Brandy-and-water was handed round to those peasants assembled. Ourself on guitar, and Zachariah with his violin, sitting as much in the smoke of the fire as possible, on account of the myriads of musketos, played lively airs, whilst Noah was pitching the tents. Esmeralda was engaged putting up the tea-things with every now and then a hearty denunciation of the “migs” or musketos. Some young peasant-girls came in time for the music. One, a very modest, pretty girl, knitting a stocking, or a strumper, as the gipsies called it. Another peasant-girl brought us some milk, which she sold us for three skillings. When our music was finished, and the peasants had wished us good-night, we retired to rest. Rest indeed for Zachariah. He was the smallest of the party, and the mosketos with excellent generalship concentrated their attacks upon the weakest point, when Zachariah killed one, two were in its place. Wildly he scratched, slapped, tumbled, and tossed, to his brother’s disgust, who would say sharply, “Now then, can’t you be quiet? Where are you getting your piro79(gip., foot) to. Can’t you lie still, and let me go to sleep.”
Many readers may imagine that the brothers slept side by side. They slept in true Romany fashion, that is, the feet of each are placed on each side of the head, or under the arms of the other. In this way a wonderful amount of warmth is obtained. One blanket covered both, andsometimes we might see in a morning Noah’s feet sticking out on each side of Zachariah’s head.
The weather seemed inclined for rain the night before, but the morning of Wednesday, 27th July, was delightful. Noah was roused before six o’clock. To-day we should be in the mountains. We heard Ole Rödsheim had been at Stueflaaten. The trout Zachariah had caught were fried for breakfast; four pounds of beef, the remainder of what we had bought at Veblungsnœs was reluctantly condemned as spoilt. The hot weather had quite spoiled it. Some Norwegian girls came, and we had three skillings’ worth of milk, and twelve skillings’ worth of stamped sweet fladbröd. Our donkeys were nearly loaded about nine o’clock, when we saw Ole Rödsheim stepping over the moorland. He did not think we had arrived, but came to look out for us. He scarcely expected we should manage the distance in the time.
Ole Rödsheim had stayed the night at “Enebo.” As we passed the house he took a cup of coffee, and we soon after crossed the Enebo bridge, entered a beautiful green lane, and left the main route before coming to Molmen. It was delightful to find ourselves no longer on the hard road.
Ole Rödsheim led the way from the lane by a track through the open woodland. Now we come suddenly upon a purling stream of water with deep holes, shaded from the summer sun of the hot and sultry day. What is this we see on the bank near a pool in the stream? A heap of woman’s clothes; even her shoes; but where’s the woman? Instinctively we looked into the quiet pool formed by the stream, but no water-nymph wasthere. There was the clear gravelly bed which made us wish to take a refreshing plunge.
The clothes were left. The woman was gone. Probably wandering about in the forest. We hope she did not unhappily lose herself. It is one of the mysteries of this book we shall never be able to clear.
At one log châlet Ole Rödsheim took an old man with us for a short distance. At another part of our winding way up some open ground towards the woods, we could see on the opposite side the valley sloping to the stream below a man and woman running at the top of their speed in the hot sun towards a bridge over the river. Our party were fast ascending towards the ridge of the ascent, and would soon be out of sight. Sometimes the woman gained ground upon the man. Every muscle was strained. It was the best steeplechase we ever saw. Then they dashed wildly across a slight wooden bridge at some distance off. We purposely delayed our cavalcade, to let them have a chance, and panting for breath and almost exhausted, they ultimately reached us. The admiration they exhibited for the noble animals with which we travelled left no doubt that they felt quite rewarded for their long and well-contested race. We forget which came up first.
Passing to the “Gröna elv,” above Molmen, we had the opportunity of seeing the picturesque waterfall called the Gröna fos. It roars through overhanging rocks, and high above the Gröna we reached a slight horse-bridge stretched over a wide deep chasm, with the rapid waters of the river below. Very little attention appears to be given to these bridges. The planks were loose, and in places out, and some were not fastened.Stopping up the open places as well as our materials would allow, we determined to risk our animals. They fortunately went over the bridge exceedingly well, but the last heavily laden donkey nearly slipped its hind leg through an awkward crevice, and was only just saved.
Ole Rödsheim was very handy in our first experience of Norwegian mountain-bridges, and quite verified our early formed opinion of his quick readiness of resource.
Now we were winding through a forest of firs and birch. Very warm it was, but the way was delightful. There were two tracks to the Ny Sœter, but Ole chose the track by a sœter, we believe called the Gröna Sœter.80This we reached in good time. The sœter is built on a wooded plateau above a wild gorge through which the river Gröna takes its course.