ORDINARY WEAVINGa.Weft.b.Warp.
PLAIN STOCKING FABRIC
The essential characteristics of good underwear are:
1. It should be made from elastic cloth, which implies a knitted cloth.
2. It should be porous in a high degree—whether in winter weight or summer weight.
3. The seams should be made upon the most modern sewing machines, with as little bulk as possible.
Apparatus: Magnifying glass.Materials: Hosiery (seconds).Reference:Textiles, page159.
Examine a piece of hosiery called asecond, obtained from a hosiery mill, and notice whether any of the following defects are present:
a.Yarn contains thick bits and buns.b.Knots are badly tied.c.Discolored yarn.d.Lacks solidity and firmness, due to the gauge being too coarse for the yarn.e.Full work-yarn too thick for gauge.
a.Yarn contains thick bits and buns.
b.Knots are badly tied.
c.Discolored yarn.
d.Lacks solidity and firmness, due to the gauge being too coarse for the yarn.
e.Full work-yarn too thick for gauge.
Apparatus: Crochet needle.Material: Thread.
1. Crocheting is another method, like knitting, of making a fabric. Examine the operation of crocheting. Notice that only one thread is made use of, and is formed into loops by means of a large needle with a hook at the end. The chief point is that the loops are not formed in uniform rows, but one loop at a time, and with the greatest liberty to choose any part of the article already made to form a new loop. For this reason, crocheting adapts itself to the production of fancy patterns useful for ornamenting.
2. A knitted fabric can be told from a crocheted fabric by noting that a knitted fabric is composed of rows or ranks of loops of a single yarn which interlock successively with similar rows or ranks of loops, while a crocheted fabric consists of a structure the basis of which is a thread crocheted or knitted into a chain which is attached at intervals to itself.
Materials: Different samples of cotton fabrics.Reference:Textiles, pages151-152.
1. Examine different kinds of cotton fabrics. Compare the lowest, medium, and highest priced varieties of the same fabric.Notice how quickly the finish of a low priced cotton fabric with athickgloss loses its luster after washing.
2. Examine the different grades of the following fabrics: white lawn, Indian Head cotton suiting, muslin, lawn, and cambric. Wash the samples several times.
Does it pay to buy cheap cotton fabrics for underwear, etc.?
What are the characteristics of a good piece of cotton cloth?
Materials: Different samples of woolens.Reference:Textiles, pages71-82.
1. Woolens differ from worsteds in having a more or less covered face, with the result that the weave rarely is noticeable, and the general color effects are much smoother and softer than those of worsteds.
2. Examine different grades of woolen fabrics, such as serges.
Defects.—If a piece of woolen is not constructed right from the start or if the work is not properly finished, that is, enough fulled in width or length, it is liable to be raggy or slazy. As a great many fabrics are more or less teaseled, there is a possibility of such pieces becoming too woolly and too hairy.
Materials: Different kinds of worsted fabrics.Reference:Textiles, pages71-82.
1. A good piece of worsted fabric should have a clear outline of the pattern, perfection of weave lines, and when the fabric is exposed to light should show a luster without polish.
2. Examine different types of worsted fabrics, and notice how many conform to the above requirements.
3. The most essential point of worsted is that it should have a cleanand even looking face. By clean is meant well sheared. By even is meant that the individual ends and picks used should beevenand not full of knots, or of any foreign matter. Of course, there are some exceptions, for instance, in an unfinished worsted which has more or less nap on the face, it could not be sheared absolutely clear, but at the same time, the face should be very evenly cropped.
Defects.—A serious defect would be if the cloth was not well sheared or if it contained many uneven cords and picks, or ends and picks missing, or coarse ends and slubs.
Examine different worsteds and notice any defects.
Worsteds.—Speaking generally, worsteds may be divided into two classes, distinguishable according to thelusterof their surface, or to the softness of their feel. They are used both for ladies’ and men’s wear. Worsted coatings may also be classed as worsteds. The coatings are woven in both single and double cloths in fancy weave effects for piece dyes, marketed in variety of finish, according to fashion.
Under this heading may be classified staple cloths, such as serges, clays, and fancy weave effects without any illumination. They can be finished in three ways:—Clear, undressed, and cheviot, used for ladies’ dress goods or men’s wear, according to weight.
The finish of the cloth varies according to the fashion, but there is always a certain demand for clear and undressed worsteds, for men’s wear.
Examine a number of worsted fabrics and classify them.
Suitings.—The term suitings covers various manipulations of manufactured goods.
1. Tennis suitings, composed of all wool, or all worsted, white or cream ground, decorated with solid color, silk and weave stripe effects.
2. Piece-dyed worsteds, such as a blue ground with white silk line, cable cord, and fancy weave stripe effects, or any other ground shade color with its complementary decoration applied.
3. Mixture wool or mixture worsted yarns made into fabrics, decorations applied in color; cable, silk, and weave effects in stripes or overline color checks, suitable for men’s wear, or decorated suitable for woman’s wear. The darker shades for fall and the lighter shades for spring.
General weight of fabric for men’s wear, 12 to 14 oz. per yd., 56 in.; general weight of fabric for ladies’ wear, 8 to 12 oz. per yd., 54 in.
4. As a rule, when one speaks of a suiting, you expect to see a fancy effect, in the form of a fancy stripe, check, or a colored mixture, in loud or quiet tones of decoration. Long naps in fancy effects are sometimes fashionable, and at other times the cloth finish is popular.
This class may be subdivided into
1. Light weight for spring or fall.2. Heavy weight for winter.
1. Light weight for spring or fall.
2. Heavy weight for winter.
The light weight class generally consists of covert cloths in lighter colors for spring, and cloths usually of the undressed finish from worsted or woolen stock for fall.
The heavy weight class generally consists of heavily fulled goods, such as meltons, beavers, naps, etc., which give a heavier and warmer coat for winter use only, and where an exceptionally heavy coat is required, double and treble cloths are occasionally employed.
Examine different kinds of suitings and classify them.
Trouserings.—Trouserings are more firmly woven than suitings and are heavier. They invariably have a stripe. The ground shade of the better grade of men’s wear fabrics is generally composed of twist warp yarns, ranging from dark slate gray to light lavender gray. An endless variety of broad and narrow fine line effects is produced by expert manipulation and combination of weave and silk decorations, producing the pleasing effect required for this class of goods. The filling is nearly always black; but sometimes a dark slate is used.
The cheaper grades are generally made of wool and cotton mixtures and twists, down to all cotton, in imitation of the better grades.
Overcoatings.—Overcoatings are heavy woolen or worsted fabrics and heavily teaseled or gigged, giving a rough, hairy appearance. Whether thick or thin, coarse or fine, they should always be elastic fabrics, that is, as much so as well fulled woolen goods can be. When hard or stiff they never make a graceful garment. The special goods made for overcoats are nearly all soft goods.
Examine different fabrics and classify them into either suitings, overcoatings, trouserings, etc.
Materials: Samples of different cheap silk fabrics.Reference:Textiles, pages203-218.
There are cheap and expensive silk fabrics on the market. The consumer is often tempted to buy the cheaper fabric and wonders why there is such a difference in price. The difference in price is due to the cost of raw material and additional cost is due to the care in manufacturing. For example, raw silk costs from $1.35 to $5 a pound according to its nature, quality, and the country from which it comes. The cost of throwing silks preparatory to dyeing also varies, the average being 55 cents a pound for organzine or warp, and 33 cents a pound for tram and filling. The prices here also vary according to the nature of the twist imparted to the silk, which is regulated by the kind of cloth it is to enter into. The cost of dyeing varies from 55 cents a pound upwards to perhaps $1.50 a pound, according to the dye and the treatment which the silk is to receive in the process of dyeing. The cost of winding, quilling, and sundry labor items necessary with soft silk prior to its being woven, will perhaps average about a cent per yard of woven goods for the cheapest cloths and range upwards according to the grade of the fabric. The cost of weaving also varies with the cloth, and may be 9 cents for one fabric and 25 cents or more per yard for the more expensive.
Weavers are paid from 2 cents to 60 cents per yard for weaving the different fabrics, and other operations vary greatly in cost; for instance, the cost of printing is entirely dependent upon the work and the number of colors used, whether it is blotch printing, discharge work, or block printing. Different processes in finishing have widely varied costs. At the present time moire work is done which costs as high as 25 cents per yard. There are also other materials which can be finished for as little as ½ cent per yard. Some goods have to be finished over and over again in the dyeing and finishing while others are very simply done. Many printed goods are handled 150 times after they come from the loom.
When it comes to relative values of similar goods produced by different manufacturers there are a few general principles by whichgood construction can easily be determined. Most pure dye fabrics when burned will rather shrivel and boil than burn, while those which are weighted heavily with metallic salts will simply char and turn white without losing the structure of the fabric.
A fabric in which the quantity of warp and filling are of equal weight gives the maximum strength for the amount of material used. For the same weight and material, that having the most bindings of warp and filling will give the greater service. Fabrics with an insufficient number of warp or filling threads slide easily and do not give good service, though sometimes fashionable. A fabric having a twist in the warp and filling will last longer than one using the same amount of silk and the same binding with less twist.
All of these things may be taught to women many times over, but if the fashion demands an article which breaks all of the above laws and is everything that it should not be, they will buy it in preference to a serviceable fabric. As a general rule, the consumer will be safest in buying goods produced by houses of good reputation and whose products are well known.
A large part of the retail value of silk goods is their fashion demand and is quite independent of their cost of production. For instance, at the present time crêpe fabrics, brocades, and prints are commanding a premium while such goods as plain taffetas could not be sold for the cost of production.
The advantages of the better kinds of silks over the cheap ones are pure dye, long wear, and more expensive manufacturing.
Apparatus: Scales, ruler.Material: Samples of fabrics.Reference:Textiles, pages144-146.
The United States Government imposes a tax on certain imported fabrics and yarn. In the case of cotton, the rates of duty are to be ascertained according to the average number of the yarns in the condition in which it is imported.
The length of the yarn is to be counted as equal to the distancecovered by it in the cloth, all clipped threads to be measured as if continuous and all ply yarns to be separated into singles and the count taken of the total singles; any excessive sizing is to be removed by boiling or other suitable processes. The number of the yarn is the English number of 840 yd. to a lb. for a No. 1 yarn.
The average number of yarn may be found without unraveling the fabric, and is the quotient of the total thread length, by the weight in the proportion of 840 yd. of yarn equaling 81/3grains, which is equivalent to a No. 1 yarn.
The following simple formula may be used:
Multiply the count of threads per square inch by the number of square inches in the sample used, this product to be multiplied by 100; then divide the product thus obtained by the weight of the sample in grains multiplied by 432. The quotient will give the number of the yarn.
For example, take a sample of cotton cloth 4 in. square, which equals 16 sq. in., having 28 warp and 28 woof threads, a total of 56 threads to the square inch, and weighing 8.6 grains. The formula applied would be as follows:
56 × 16 × 100 ÷ 8.6 × 432 = 24, the number of the yarn.
56 × 16 × 100 ÷ 8.6 × 432 = 24, the number of the yarn.
The formula may be further simplified by weighing a square yard of the cloth and dividing the number of threads per square inch by1/300of the weight per square yard in grains.
Find the number of yarn in several cotton fabrics.
A great deal of time should be devoted to the study of standard fabrics so that pupils may be able to recognize them by inspection and know how to test them for adulterants.
This may be done by having the pupils study the fabrics one by one, placing a sample of each in a note-book. Underneath the sample should be written the use of the fabric, the width, the different grades, with prices, wearing qualities, and how the fabric is made. In connection with this work special effort should be made to develop a textile vocabulary so as to be able to discriminate between the different fabrics, to know the types of weaves, and the different kinds of finish, etc. In thisway develop the ability to know what materials and colors weave best, the prices which should be paid for strong materials, the amount of material necessary, and the trade names of fabrics which can be depended upon for substantial goods.
Occasional tests in recognizing fabrics should be given by the teacher by placing before the pupils unlabeled fabrics that they have previously studied and have them give the name, approximate price or grade, weave, qualities, etc.
Remnants or small pieces of standard fabrics may be obtained from the leading dry goods stores of the country. Teachers should have on exhibition in cabinets a large display of standard fabrics with a card attached giving the name and use of each.
The first thing a buyer of cloth notices in examining the fabrics is the finish. The finish is tested by feeling and seeing. To illustrate: broadcloth should have a smooth face and a nap evenly laid. If the finish is in keeping with the character of the cloth, he next examines the fiber of the yarn to see whether it is composed of pure wool or two or more fibers in combination.
Then test the strength of the cloth to see if it will meet the requirements.
A test should be made to tell whether it is poorly dyed or well dyed. There is no test that can be applied to all colors to ascertain this, neither is it possible to judge by the eye. The best way is to take a small sample of the goods and submit it to the washing and light test.
FOOTNOTES:[21]Dissecting pin may be made by placing head of pin or needle in a pen holder.[22]A hand loom consisting of simply a square frame, may be obtained from Hammett & Co., Devonshire Street, Boston, Mass.[23]In the case of linen the short fibers separated by combing are calledtow, and the long fibersline.[24]Absorbents are substances that will absorb readily excess of liquids; they include varieties of chalk, paste of chalk, or fullers’ earth, rough surface of a visiting card, buckwheat flour, crumbs of bread, powdered soapstone, pumice, whiting. These substances are used to great advantage in assisting to remove stains from delicate fabrics. They absorb the excess of solvent and thus prevent it from spreading.[25]Alum in this case is called a mordant, which is a substance that will impregnate the cloth with something which will hold the coloring matter. Other mordants are oxides, hydroxides, and basic salts of aluminum, iron, tin, and chromium.[26]Place a piece of sulphur on a deflagrating spoon and light it by placing it in the flame and allow it to burn. Cover the bottle by means of a glass plate.[27]Bleaching powder is prepared by passing chlorine gas over layers of slaked lime (lime to which a slight amount of water has been added). Bleaching powder bleaches by having its hypochlorous acid set free, which in turn gives up oxygen, being converted into hydrochloric acid. The French use solutions containing chloride and hypochlorite of soda. They are called Labarraque’s disinfecting fluid. A similar solution of a mixture of chloride and hypochlorite is called Eau de Javelle.[28]A description of shoe and hand clothing may be obtained fromShoemaking, published by Little, Brown & Co., Boston.[29]In Ireland the cost of producing a pound of bleached linen cloth 4 sq. yd. is 16d.or 32 cts.; cost of hackling a pound of flax is ½d.or 1 ct. per lb.; cost of preparing and spinning a pound of flax is 6d.or 12 cts. per lb.; cost of winding and weaving a pound of flax is 2½d.or 5 cts. per lb.; cost of bleaching and finishing a pound of flax is 7d.or 14 cts. per lb.; $75 is spent in turning $100 worth of flax into yarn; $75 is spent in turning $100 worth of yarn into brown linen; $50 is spent in turning $100 worth of brown linen into linen for market.[30]A linen fabric can be best told from cotton by holding it up to the light and examining the evenness of the threads. Cotton can be more easily spun level than flax, therefore threads that present considerable irregularities may be taken to be flax. In a union fabric the nap is usually cotton and the threads more regular than the filling (flax). The best linen is made from fine and fairly regular threads; common linen from coarse and irregular tow yarns. Linen is no more subject to weak places in weaving than cotton, although it is harder to bleach and may be weakened in this process. If each operation is not perfect the linen will become yellow in storage.
[21]Dissecting pin may be made by placing head of pin or needle in a pen holder.
[21]Dissecting pin may be made by placing head of pin or needle in a pen holder.
[22]A hand loom consisting of simply a square frame, may be obtained from Hammett & Co., Devonshire Street, Boston, Mass.
[22]A hand loom consisting of simply a square frame, may be obtained from Hammett & Co., Devonshire Street, Boston, Mass.
[23]In the case of linen the short fibers separated by combing are calledtow, and the long fibersline.
[23]In the case of linen the short fibers separated by combing are calledtow, and the long fibersline.
[24]Absorbents are substances that will absorb readily excess of liquids; they include varieties of chalk, paste of chalk, or fullers’ earth, rough surface of a visiting card, buckwheat flour, crumbs of bread, powdered soapstone, pumice, whiting. These substances are used to great advantage in assisting to remove stains from delicate fabrics. They absorb the excess of solvent and thus prevent it from spreading.
[24]Absorbents are substances that will absorb readily excess of liquids; they include varieties of chalk, paste of chalk, or fullers’ earth, rough surface of a visiting card, buckwheat flour, crumbs of bread, powdered soapstone, pumice, whiting. These substances are used to great advantage in assisting to remove stains from delicate fabrics. They absorb the excess of solvent and thus prevent it from spreading.
[25]Alum in this case is called a mordant, which is a substance that will impregnate the cloth with something which will hold the coloring matter. Other mordants are oxides, hydroxides, and basic salts of aluminum, iron, tin, and chromium.
[25]Alum in this case is called a mordant, which is a substance that will impregnate the cloth with something which will hold the coloring matter. Other mordants are oxides, hydroxides, and basic salts of aluminum, iron, tin, and chromium.
[26]Place a piece of sulphur on a deflagrating spoon and light it by placing it in the flame and allow it to burn. Cover the bottle by means of a glass plate.
[26]Place a piece of sulphur on a deflagrating spoon and light it by placing it in the flame and allow it to burn. Cover the bottle by means of a glass plate.
[27]Bleaching powder is prepared by passing chlorine gas over layers of slaked lime (lime to which a slight amount of water has been added). Bleaching powder bleaches by having its hypochlorous acid set free, which in turn gives up oxygen, being converted into hydrochloric acid. The French use solutions containing chloride and hypochlorite of soda. They are called Labarraque’s disinfecting fluid. A similar solution of a mixture of chloride and hypochlorite is called Eau de Javelle.
[27]Bleaching powder is prepared by passing chlorine gas over layers of slaked lime (lime to which a slight amount of water has been added). Bleaching powder bleaches by having its hypochlorous acid set free, which in turn gives up oxygen, being converted into hydrochloric acid. The French use solutions containing chloride and hypochlorite of soda. They are called Labarraque’s disinfecting fluid. A similar solution of a mixture of chloride and hypochlorite is called Eau de Javelle.
[28]A description of shoe and hand clothing may be obtained fromShoemaking, published by Little, Brown & Co., Boston.
[28]A description of shoe and hand clothing may be obtained fromShoemaking, published by Little, Brown & Co., Boston.
[29]In Ireland the cost of producing a pound of bleached linen cloth 4 sq. yd. is 16d.or 32 cts.; cost of hackling a pound of flax is ½d.or 1 ct. per lb.; cost of preparing and spinning a pound of flax is 6d.or 12 cts. per lb.; cost of winding and weaving a pound of flax is 2½d.or 5 cts. per lb.; cost of bleaching and finishing a pound of flax is 7d.or 14 cts. per lb.; $75 is spent in turning $100 worth of flax into yarn; $75 is spent in turning $100 worth of yarn into brown linen; $50 is spent in turning $100 worth of brown linen into linen for market.
[29]In Ireland the cost of producing a pound of bleached linen cloth 4 sq. yd. is 16d.or 32 cts.; cost of hackling a pound of flax is ½d.or 1 ct. per lb.; cost of preparing and spinning a pound of flax is 6d.or 12 cts. per lb.; cost of winding and weaving a pound of flax is 2½d.or 5 cts. per lb.; cost of bleaching and finishing a pound of flax is 7d.or 14 cts. per lb.; $75 is spent in turning $100 worth of flax into yarn; $75 is spent in turning $100 worth of yarn into brown linen; $50 is spent in turning $100 worth of brown linen into linen for market.
[30]A linen fabric can be best told from cotton by holding it up to the light and examining the evenness of the threads. Cotton can be more easily spun level than flax, therefore threads that present considerable irregularities may be taken to be flax. In a union fabric the nap is usually cotton and the threads more regular than the filling (flax). The best linen is made from fine and fairly regular threads; common linen from coarse and irregular tow yarns. Linen is no more subject to weak places in weaving than cotton, although it is harder to bleach and may be weakened in this process. If each operation is not perfect the linen will become yellow in storage.
[30]A linen fabric can be best told from cotton by holding it up to the light and examining the evenness of the threads. Cotton can be more easily spun level than flax, therefore threads that present considerable irregularities may be taken to be flax. In a union fabric the nap is usually cotton and the threads more regular than the filling (flax). The best linen is made from fine and fairly regular threads; common linen from coarse and irregular tow yarns. Linen is no more subject to weak places in weaving than cotton, although it is harder to bleach and may be weakened in this process. If each operation is not perfect the linen will become yellow in storage.
The author has found that very nearly all manufacturers are willing to supply schools with samples of their products. But the demand for samples has been so great that it is necessary in most cases to pay a small sum to cover the cost.
The following prominent firms dealing in textile supplies are named here to assist the teachers in writing for supplies.
The names of the leading textile papers are given so that teachers may obtain them. They contain a large number of names of dealers in textiles so that they may be used as reference books for supplies.
Kitson Machine Shop, Lowell, Mass.—Cotton pickers.
Howard and Bullough, Pawtucket, R. I.—Cotton machinery.
Saco-Pettee Machine Shop, Saco, Me.—Cotton machinery.
Lowell Machine Shop, Lowell, Mass.—Cotton machinery.
Whitin Machine Works, Whitinsville, Mass.—Cotton machinery.
Mason Machine Works, Taunton, Mass.—Cotton machinery.
Draper Co., Hopedale, Mass.—Cotton machinery.
Woonsocket Machine Works, Woonsocket, R. I.—Cotton machinery.
Faler & Jencks, Pawtucket, R. I.—Cotton machinery.
Potter & Johnson, Pawtucket, R. I.—Cotton machinery.
C. E. Riley, 65 Franklin St., Boston, Mass.—Cotton machinery.
Cohoes Iron Foundry Co., Cohoes, N. Y.—Cotton machinery.
American Moistening Co., 120 Franklin St., Boston, Mass.—Humidifiers and textile machinery.
American Wool and Cotton Reporter, Atlantic Ave., Boston, Mass.
American Silk Journal, East 28th St., New York City, N. Y.
Textile World Record, Congress St., Boston, Mass.
Technical Education Bulletin on Illustrative and Laboratory Supplies, published by Teachers College, Columbia University, West 120th St., New York.
Fibre and Fabric, 127 Federal St., Boston, Mass.
Textile Manufacturers Journal, Atlantic Ave., Boston, Mass.
American Woolen Co., Boston, Mass.—Booklets onFrom Wool to Cloth; samples of fabrics.
Arlington Mills, Chauncey St., Boston, Mass.—Samples of cotton and wool in different stages of manufacture; fabrics.
S. Blaisdell, Jr., Chicopee, Mass.—Egyptian and Peruvian cotton, etc.
Frank A. Tierney, 260 Broadway, New York—Ramie.
Geo. Carter, 246 Broadway, New York—Linen yarns and thread.
Boston Yarn Co., 50 State St., Boston, Mass.—Cotton yarn.
Wonalancit Co., Nashua, N. H.—Samples of cotton.
Botany Worsted Mills, Passaic, N. J.—French spun worsted yarn.
C. E. Riley, 65 Franklin St., Boston, Mass.—Yarns and fabrics.
Adirondack Wool Co., Little Falls, N. Y.—Wools and shoddies.
Sutcliffe, Atlantic Ave., Boston, Mass.—Foreign wools.
Francis Willey & Co., 556 Atlantic Ave., Boston, Mass.—Top, foreign wools.
John L. Farrell, 210 Summer St., Boston, Mass.—Mohair, noils, and carpet wools.
The J. R. Montgomery Co., Windsor Locks, Conn.—Novelty yarns.
Catlin & Co., 67 Chauncey St., Boston, Mass.—Cotton yarns.
Norfolk Woolen Co., Franklin, Mass.—Shoddies.
Parker & Wilder Co., Boston, Mass.—Samples of fabrics.
Lawrence & Co., Franklin St., Boston, Mass.—Samples of fabrics.
Joy, Langdon, & Co., Boston, Mass.—Samples of fabrics.
Clark Thread Co., Newark, N. J.—Exhibit.
George A. Clark & Bro., 400 Broadway, New York—Cabinet and booklet.
Cheney Bro., So. Manchester, Conn.—Silk samples, silk fabrics.
Johnson & Johnson, New Brunswick, N. J.—Wall chart of cotton field.
Scordill, 902 Canal St., New Orleans, La.—Cotton postal cards.
Storey Cotton Co., The Bourse, Philadelphia, Pa.—Booklet,All about Cotton.
White Oak Cotton Mills, Greensboro, N. C.—Stereoscopic views.
Willimantic Thread Co., Willimantic, Conn.
Flax Spinning Co., York St., Belfast, Ireland.—Prints illustrating linen manufacture and samples.
Jas. McCutcheon & Co., 5th Ave. and 34th St., New York.—Flax cabinet.
The Linen Thread Co., 96 Franklin St., New York.—Flax cabinet.
Belding Bro. & Co., 526 Broadway, New York.—School exhibits of silk.
Brainerd & Armstrong, 100 Union St., New London, Conn.—Book and cabinet of silk.
Champlain Silk Mills, Whitehall, N. Y.—Spun silk and exhibits.
M. Heminway & Sons, Silk Co., Watertown, Conn.—Booklets on silk.
Nonatuck Silk Co., Florence, Mass.—Sealed cabinets and books on silk.
William Skinner & Sons, 47 East 17th St., New York City.—Silks and satins.
S. Miller, 304 Second Ave., New York.—Wool fiber.
Milton, Bradley Co., Springfield, Mass.—Sheep chart.
A. H. Post, Quaker Hill, New York.—Raw wool by the pound.
Schermerhorn & Co., 12 West 33d St., New York City, N. Y.—Wall chart illustration of sheep.
L. S. Watson Mfg. Co., Worcester, Mass.—Hand cards.
Howard Bros., Worcester, Mass.—Hand cards.
Prin. Columbus Industrial School, Columbus, Ga.—Samples of cotton plant or bolls.
Horstman Co., 5th and Cherry St., Philadelphia, Pa.
Lion Yarn Co., 408 Broadway, New York.
C. G. Sargent’s Sons, Graniteville, Mass.—Wool machinery.
Davis & Ferber Co., No. Andover, Mass.—Woolen and worsted machinery.
Lowell Machine Shop, Lowell, Mass.—Worsted machinery.
Crompton & Knowles, Worcester, Mass.—Worsted silk machinery.
Speed & Stephenson, 170 Summer St., Boston, Mass.—Textile machinery.
George Gerry & Co., Athol, Mass.—Shoddy machinery.
Tolhoust Machine Works, Troy, N. Y.—Hydro extractor.
Parks & Woolson Machine Co., Springfield, Vt.—Machinery.
Curtis, Marble Co., Worcester, Mass.—Finishing machinery.
General Electric Co., 84 State St., Boston, Mass.—Pictures, showing textile machinery in operation by motors.
Hopkins Machine Works, Budgeton, R. I.—Finishing machinery.
Scott & Williams, 88 Pearl St., Boston, Mass.
Nye & Tudick Co., Philadelphia, Pa.
Chemicals, Dyestuffs, and Sizing Materials
The Arabol Mfg. Co., 100 Williams St., New York.—Sizing materials.
Cassella Color Co., 182 Front St., New York.—Coal tar products, dyestuffs, and literature.
Arnold Hoffman & Co., Providence, R. I.—Sizing materials.
H. A. Metz & Co., 122 Hudson St., New York.—Dyestuffs and literature.
Badische Co., 128 Duane St., New York.—Dyestuffs and literature.
ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWYZ
Acid test,239Adelaide wool,10Adulterations of wool,80,82Albatross,83,173Alma,219Alpaca,1,15,34,83American cotton,110American wool,3Angora,32,83Animal fibers,1Artificial fibers,1Artificial silk,1,230Asbestos,1,234Astrakhans,15,84Australian wool,3,8,9Awning,173
Baling cotton,117Bandanna,84Barège,219Bast fibers,193Batiste,173Beam,53Beaver cloth,52,84Bedford cord,84,174Beige,85Bengaline,219Berber,219Bindings,84Bleaching cotton,148flax,196thread,141Blending,11,31Bombazine,84,220Bottany,84Boucle,85Bourrette,174Bradford system of spinning,44Branding sheep,7Broadcloth,52,85Brocade,219Brocatel,220Buckram,174Bunting,85Bur picker,30Burling,72Burring,29,30
Calendering,149,150Calico,175Caniche,86Canvas,177Cape wools,10Carbonizing,29,30Carding cotton,126wool,3,4Carpet wools,3,4Cashmere,85,86goat,13wool,13,87Castor,87Challis,87Chambray,177Characteristics of cotton cloth,152of linen cloth,196of woolen cloth,50of worsted cloth,46Cheese cloth,178Chenille,220Cheviot,33,35,52,87wool,14Chiffon,220China grass,232China silks,220Chinchilla,52,98Chintz,178Chudah,89Cloth-rolls,54Clothing wool,3Cocoons,203Combing cotton,127Combing wool,4,39Combustion test,239Construction of cloth,70,71Corduroy,89Côte cheval,89Cotton,1,105carding,126combing,127drawing,128finishing,147flannel,178growing countries,106picker,125substitutes,232varieties of,105,106,111,112yarns,125,134Cotton-gin,114-116Counts of yarn,9,49,51Coupure,90Covert cloth,90Crabbing,74Crash,178Creel,52Crêpe,179,221Crêpe de Chine,221Crepon,179Cretonne,90Crinoline,179Crocheting,56,253Cross-dyed,65,67,68Cyprian gold,234
Damask,179Dark colored fibers,33Dead wool,20Delaine wool,22,90Denim,179Diaper cloth,179Difference between lamb’s wool and sheep’s wool,20Difference between wool and hair,2Difference between woolen and worsted yarns,39Dimity,179Doeskin,52,90Domet,180Double-cloth,58,62Drap d’Été,90Dress faced fabrics,8Drill,180Duck,180Dusting operation,35Dyeing,66black silks,210colored silks,210cotton,67wools,65yarns,68,209
East Indian cotton,107Egyptian cotton,108Elasticity of knitted textures,253Embroidery silk,207Empress cloth,90Ends,53,54English system of spinning,4,40English wools,3Eolienne,181,221Épingline,90Etamine,91,181Extract-wool,1,32,37
Fancy goods,79Felt,91Felting,2,4Fibers,1Figure weaving,58,61,62Figured poplins,225Finishing,71,151Finishing hosiery,163Flannel,52,91-93Flannelette,181Flax,1,123preparation,193-195sources,194,198Fleece,7Flocks,1,32,37Florentine,93Fly frames,130Foulard,221Foule,93Frame,54French system of spinning,4,44Frieze,52,93Full blood,19Full grade cotton,121Fulling,73Fustian,180
Galatea cloth,182Gauge weaving,63Gauze,182Gill boxes,42Gingham,182Ginning cotton,114Glacé,222Gloria,94Goat,1Grades of wool,18Granada,94Great Britain wools,12Grenadine,94Grinding rags,36Ground lace,164
Hackling,195Hair,2Half blood,19Half-grades of cotton,121,122Hand-loom,56Harness,55Heddles,54Hemp,1,199Henrietta cloth,94Hoggett wool,20Homespun,58,94Hop sacking,94Hosiery,159Hosiery manufacture,159-163Humidifying cotton,124Hydro extractor,28
India silk,204,222Indigo blue flannel,92Inspection of cloth,123,124Intermediate frame,130Irish wools,14Italian cloth,183
Jaconet,183Jacquard machine,55Japanese silk,222Jeans,95Jersey cloth,222Jute,1uses of,201
Kapok,230Kersey,95Kerseymere,96Khaki,183Knitting,253cotton,159finishing,163frames,154rib,158silk,159stripe,159wool,3