Textile Chemistry and Dyeing. 4 Parts.Part I. Textile Fibers.Part II. Bleaching.Part III. Mordants and Natural Dyes.Part VI. Artificial Dyestuffs.Cotton Fiber.Cotton Spinning. 5 parts.Weaving. 3 Parts.Textile Design. 5 Parts.Woolen and Worsted Spinning. 4 parts.Woolen and Worsted Finishing. 4 parts.Textile Fibers$3.50Mathews.Postage.16Textile Fabrics.90Rock.Postage.08Dyeing of Textile Fabrics1.75Hummell.Postage.12Bleaching and Calico Printing4.00Duerr.Postage.14
Note.—Books may be ordered through the School or may be borrowed by members for one week. Send postage with request.
Freeof the Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C.:
Flax for Seed and Fiber, Farmers' Bulletin No. 27.Cotton Seed and Its Products, Farmers' Bulletin No. 36.Raising Sheep, Farmers' Bulletin No. 96.The Angora Goat, Farmers' Bulletin No. 137.Silk Worm Culture, Farmers' Bulletin No. 165.Essential Steps in Securing an Early Crop of Cotton,Farmers' Bulletin No. 217.The Cotton Seed Industry, Reprint No. 239.The Hemp Industry in U. S., Reprint No. 254.Improvement of Cotton by Seed Selection, Reprint No. 279.The Growing of Long-Staple Upland Cotton, Reprint No. 314.Principal Commercial Plant Fibers, Reprint No. 321.
For saleby the Superintendent of Documents, Washington, D. C. Send coin or money order,—stamps not accepted:
Sheep and Wool, Report No. 66, Office of the Secretary. Price 5c.The Cotton Plant: Its History, Botany, Chemistry, Enemies, and Uses. Bulletin No. 33.Office of Experiment Stations. Price 60c.Cotton Culture in Egypt. Bulletin No. 42. Price 5c.
OFFICE OF FIBER INVESTIGATIONS.
Uncultivated Bast Fibers. Report No. 6. Price 10c.Cultivation of Ramie. Report No. 7. Price 10c.Culture of Hemp and Jute. Report No. 8. Price 10c.Flax Culture for Seed and Fiber. Report No. 10. Price 10c.
The following questions constitute the "written recitation" which the regular members of the A. S. H. E. answer in writing and send in for the correction and comment of the instructor. They are intended to emphasize and fix in the memory the most important points in the lesson.
Read Carefully.Place your name and address on the first sheet of the test. Use a light grade of paper and write on one side of the sheet only. Leave space between the answers for the notes of the instructor.Answer every question fully.Read the lesson paper a number of times before attempting to answer the question.
1. Give a brief outline of the craft of spinning, primitive and modern.
2. Outline the same for weaving.
3. Describe the hand loom.
4. Describe the cotton fiber. What kinds are there?
5. Who invented the cotton gin and how did this invention affect the cotton industry?
6. Give the chief characteristics of wool. Name the wool and fur bearing animals. How does wool differ from hair?
7. Trace briefly the preparation of wool from the fleece to the finished product.
8. Describe flax and outline the method for the preparation of the fibers. What is the name of the manufactured product of flax?
9. Name some other bast fibers and their products?
10. How do the textile fibers compare in the raw state in condition and price?
11. Give a brief description of silk from the egg to the woven cloth.
12. (a) What is the chief constituent of the vegetable fibers? (b) How does their affinity for dyestuffs compare with wool and silk? (c) How do the alkalies affect wool?
13. Describe the principal weaves and give examples of each.
14. (a) How are cotton and flax bleached? (b) What is a mordant? (c) How should material be prepared for dyeing? (d) State what you know about old time methods of dyeing.
15. How are print goods made? Name some printed fabrics.
16. Define woolens and worsteds.
17. Describe the finishing of woolen and worsted cloths.
18. What is noil; shoddy; felt; flocks?
19. With what dress goods have you had experience, and with what results?
20. What factors determine the use of fabrics?
21. Of what value is the study of textiles? What have you gained by the study of this lesson?
Note.—After completing the test sign your full name.
EMBROIDERED INITIALS.EMBROIDERED INITIALSWandL—Sewed on initials;B—Satin stitch in wreath of feather stitches;C—Outline and seed work;D—Chain and French knots;H—Cross stitch;L—Chain;H—At the right, and the cross stitchHare made over canvas and the canvas threads drawn.
WandL—Sewed on initials;B—Satin stitch in wreath of feather stitches;C—Outline and seed work;D—Chain and French knots;H—Cross stitch;L—Chain;H—At the right, and the cross stitchHare made over canvas and the canvas threads drawn.
Good sewing, good pressing, well finished ends and corners, lightness of touch which holds the work without apparently touching it, thus giving to the finished garment a fresh look—all these are important considerations.
Kinds of Sewing
The sewing done on wool, silk, and dresses of all kinds differs from that on underwear and white work. Muslin underwear requires frequent washing and ironing, hence the first essential is durability; close, small stitches, all raw edges carefully turned and stitched securely. Seams that are to come close to the body should lie perfectly flat. A round seam would wear out sooner by coming into frequent contact with the washboard and iron, besides irritating the skin. In dressmaking, unless the stitching is used for ornamental purposes, it should never show on the outside.
Periods of beautiful and dignified costume have been periods of fine needlework—one art leading to and helping on the production of the other.
Plain Stitches
Stitches may be divided into plain and ornamental. The plain stitches are the (1) basting, (2) running, (3) the running and back stitch, (4) half back stitch, (5) back stitch, (6) overhand or whipping stitch, (7) overcast, (8) hemming, and (9) blind or slip stitch.
Ornamental Stitches
The ornamental stitches most frequently used are (1) outline, (2) chain, (3) cat or herringbone, (4) blanket or loop, (5) feather, coral or briar, (6) hemstitching, (7) French knots, (8) button hole, and (9) cross stitch. Excepting the cross stitch, these are all variations of the plain and button hole stitches.
The plain stitches may be used for ornamental purposes. The basting stitch is known as Queen Anne darned work. The back stitch, known as "seed work," is used in embroidering letters and monograms. The overhand stitch is used as an ornamental stitch for joining selvages and in hemming. The chain stitch, besides being ornamental, makes one of the best darning stitches, reproducing the stitch in knitting. The cat stitch is also useful in binding down open seams for flannel hems, patching, etc.
Basting
(1) Basting proper is used only in the preparation of work to hold the stuff and lining, or any two or more parts of the work together while it is being stitched, none being left in the finished garment. It is also used as a guide for sewing, feather stitching, etc.
Tacking
The slanting basting stitch or "tacking" is used in dressmaking for holding linings. The needle is pointed towards the worker. Even basting is used for holding several thicknesses of cloth and if the garment is to be fitted, the stitches should be placed rather close. Uneven basting is used for hems and seams to be machine stitched. Several short stitches with one long one areused to baste crape and wiry fabrics, for this method holds them better than stitches of equal length.
BASTING STITCHESBASTING STITCHESa—Even;b—Uneven;c—For wiry fabrics;d—Tacking;e—Overcasting;f—Double or tailor overcasting.
a—Even;b—Uneven;c—For wiry fabrics;d—Tacking;e—Overcasting;f—Double or tailor overcasting.
Fastening the Thread
All basting should be fastened at start with a knot or knot and back stitch and finished with two or three back stitches. The length of thread may be broken or cut from the spool, but should always be cut from the work. Breaking weakens the fastening and biting off soils delicate work with the moisture from the breath, to say nothing of the injury to the teeth. Basting for large work should usually be done with the goods lying flat on the sewing table.
Drawing Basting Threads
For ordinary work, basting threads should be cut every few inches and drawn out. In velvet, every alternate stitch should be cut and drawn out on the right side with the pile of the goods. In the basting for velvet where the slanting stitch is used, only one end of the stitch touches the line of the seam—the rest is on the outside of the seam. Silk thread should be used to baste velvet and gauze; the thread should be used for basting.
POSITION OF THE HANDS IN RUNNINGPOSITION OF THE HANDS IN RUNNING
Running Stitch
(2) Running is closely related to basting. It is not used for any seams that have to bear great strain, but for joining seams in this material, gathering, tucking, making cords, etc. The stitches are usually of equal length on both sides. Take one stitch in the seam and hold the goods between the thumb and first finger of each hand, as shown in the illustration, with the back of the thimble on the eye of the needle. Then, with as free wrist motion as possible, run or shake the needle through the material. The motion of the hand should come from the elbow joint.
Gathering, gauging, casing, etc., are used for drawing up the fullness of skirts, ruffles, flounces, etc., into a given space. The running stitch is used for these.
Gathering
For gathering, the cloth is held in the same manner as for running. The needle, ordinarily, need not be taken out of the work, the stitches being pushed back over the eye as they are made; but for running long skirt seams in delicate material which would crinkle at the line of sewing and roughen the seam, the needle should be drawn through and the line of sewing smoothed on the thread at each needleful of stitches.
Stroking
Never use a double thread for gathering, as it is apt to knot, but put in two lines of gathering threads—one a full one-eighth of an inch below the other—and slip the stitches along the needle as described above. This method is a saving of time in the end. When the gathering threads are in, remove the needle, place a pin vertically close to the last stitch, and wind the thread around it a few times in the form of a figure eight. Use a coarse needle for stroking. Hold the work between the thumb and fingers of the left hand with the thumb on the gathering threads. To place the gathers, put the point of the needleunderthe lower gathering thread and press the plait or gather under the thumb, drawing the needle down, or simply pressing on the needle. Care must be taken not to scratch or tear the material. Continue entirely across the gathers, putting the needle under each stitch and holding the plait firmly between the thumb and finger: turnthe material and stroke theupperedge of the gathers.
Gauging
The gauging stitch is usually longer on the face than on the back, draws the material up into distinct plaits, making it easy to dispose of the fullness neatly, regularly and securely by overhanding the top edge of each plait to the bottom edge of the band. The right side of the skirt and the right side of the belt are placed against each other and each gather oversewed to the belt. The space into which the material is to be gathered determines the length of the long stitch. The succeeding rows of stitches should bedirectlyunder those of the first.
Running and Back Stitch
(3) The running and back stitch is made by taking a few running stitches, drawing out the needle and making a back stitch over the last running stitch to strengthen the seam. Care must be taken not to hold the side next the worker too full and not to miss the under material, but to take the stitches even on both sides.
Half Back Stitch
(4) The half-back stitch is made by taking one stitch and placing the needle half way back, then bringing it out twice the length of the stitch and placing the needle half way back each time from where the last stitch ended. The appearance on the right side will be of regular space as in the running stitch.
Back Stitch
(5) The back stitch is made by placing the needle back to the last stitch, bringing it out once the length of the last stitch, then placing the needle back into thelast stitch, and so on, making the stitches follow each other without any space between. This is used in all places that are to bear great strain.
PLAIN STITCHESPLAIN STITCHESa—Running;b—Running and back;c—Half back;d—Back stitch.
a—Running;b—Running and back;c—Half back;d—Back stitch.
Whipping Stitch
(6) Overhanding, oversewing, whipping, top sewing are one and the same—small stitches taken over edges, to join folded edges or selvages, for sewing bands on gathers, sewing lace and insertion, and for sewing carpet strips together. The pieces for an overhand seam should be pinned carefully, placing the pins at right angles to the edge. The folded edges or selvages are placed together, the right side of the goodsbeing in. Do not use a knot to begin sewing, but leave the knot end of the thread and sew it in with the first stitches, carrying the thread on top of the seam. To finish off the seam, overhand back over the last few stitches.
Position in Overhanding
In sewing this seam, the goods should be held between the thumb and first finger of the left hand parallel with the chest, not over the end of finger. Point the needle towards the left shoulder, thus giving a slanting stitch. Care should be taken not to pucker or draw the seam. When the seam is finished, it should be opened and pressed flat.
Overcasting
(7) Overcasting is a slanting stitch used to keep raw edges from ravelling. This stitch, like oversewing, may be worked from right to left or from left to right.
The hem stitch and blind or slip stitch will be considered under hems.
Never use a knot in any embroidery, but start by running a few stitches along the line which is to be covered.
Outline Stitch
(1) The outline stitch is the simplest of all embroidery stitches. Take a long stitch on the surface, with the needle pointing towards the chest in the line to be covered, and a short back stitch on the under side of the material. The effect of the under or wrong side of the material is exactly that of an ordinary back stitch. The beauty of this stitch depends upon its regularity and in always keeping the thread on the same side of the needle.
ORNAMENTAL STITCHESORNAMENTAL STITCHESa—Outline;b—Chain;c—Cat;c'—Catch;d—Single Feather;e—Double Feather;f—Tripple Feather;g—Modified Feather;h—Double Feather with Knots;i—French Knots and Outline;j—Herring Bone;k—Fancy Feather;l—Cat Stitch with French Knots.
a—Outline;b—Chain;c—Cat;c'—Catch;d—Single Feather;e—Double Feather;f—Tripple Feather;g—Modified Feather;h—Double Feather with Knots;i—French Knots and Outline;j—Herring Bone;k—Fancy Feather;l—Cat Stitch with French Knots.
Chain Stitch
(2) The chain stitch when perfectly done should look like the stitch made by a single-thread machine. This stitch is made by taking the thread toward the worker, and before the needle is drawn out of the cloth the thread is held by the thumb under the point of the needle, as in a buttonhole, making a loop. The needle is inserted in the last loop for the next stitch. The chain stitch is used in modern embroidery as an outline and for darning, but in old embroidery, the outline and chain stitches were used for filling as well. They are found in Persian, Indian, and Italian Renaissance work. Like the feather stitch, the chain stitch is worked towards the worker.
Cat Stitch
(3) The cat stitch or herringbone stitch is an alternate slanting back stitch, the needle being placed first to the right and then to the left. This stitch must be worked evenly to be effective. It is used to finish flannel seams and hems, fasten down linings, opened seams, and canvas facings and featherbone, in millinery—in fact, this stitch is one of the most useful in sewing. Thecatchstitch is a variation of the cat stitch. Instead of pointing the needle towards the chest, the stitch is taken parallel with the chest. It is used for about the same purposes as the cat stitch. As with the outline stitch, the cat stitch is workedfromthe worker.
Loop Stitch
(4) Blanket or loop stitch, used to ornament the edge of blankets, etc., and for finishing the edge of stockinet or web material, is worked from left to right, the edge of the material being held towards the worker. Start with three or four running stitches along the edge so the line of stitching will cover them. Insert the needle the desired width from the edge, draw it towards you down over the thread, being careful not to draw the thread too tightly over the edge of the flannel. Fasten the thread by taking running stitches under the last blanket stitch on the wrong side.
HEM STITCHINGHEM STITCHINGa—Position of Needle;a'—Finished Hem Stitch;b—Ladder Stitch;c—Example of Drawn Work Finished with Loop and Cat Stitches.
a—Position of Needle;a'—Finished Hem Stitch;b—Ladder Stitch;c—Example of Drawn Work Finished with Loop and Cat Stitches.
Feather Stitch
(5) Single, double, and triple feather or coral stitches may be made very ornamental and are used in all kinds of sewing and on all materials. They are always made towards the worker, the stitches being taken alternately to the right and left of the line of the design. The thread should always be carried under the needle as in a buttonhole stitch. The design may be varied by taking the stitches diagonally or straight, by making them close or separated, etc.
Hem Stitch
(6) Hemstitching is used for ornament in making hems and tucks. The first step in hemstitching is the drawing of threads. Rubbing the cloth along the line of threads to be drawn will make the drawing easier if the cloth is sized. After the threads are drawn, the hem is turned and basted even with the lowest edge of the drawn space. Insert the needle into the edge of the hem and material, taking up a cluster of threads bring the thread under the needle to form a buttonhole stitch or make a simple stitch in the edge of the fold. The number of threads drawn and the number in a cluster must be determined by the coarseness or finenessof the material, the greater number being drawn and taken in fine material. There are several methods of hemstitching, but the results are about the same.
EMBROIDERY STITCHESEMBROIDERY STITCHESEyelet Embroidery, Embroidery Button Hole, Flat Satin Stitch.
Eyelet Embroidery, Embroidery Button Hole, Flat Satin Stitch.
French Knots
(7) French knots are used in connection with other stitches for borders enclosed in outline and chain stitches, in initials, centers of flowers, and as a filling-in stitch. The simplest method is of taking a small back stitch, bringing the thread from theeyeof the needle under the point from right to left and drawingthe needle perpendicularly from the cloth. Place the needle back of the knot and bring the point out in the place where the next knot is to be made. The size of the thread will determine the size of the knot.
Embroidery Buttonhole
(8) The embroidery buttonhole stitch has many possibilities and many variations. It is worked from left to right instead of from right to left as in a buttonhole. The thread from the work is carried under the point of the needle from left to right, just the reverse of the buttonhole. This stitch is used on flannel and in embroidery of all kinds; it may be padded or worked flat and the stitches may be taken a distance apart or near together.
Cross Stitch
(9) The cross stitch is worked on linen, scrim, canvas, or any open-meshed material. If done on a flat, smooth surface, it will be necessary to work over canvas, afterwards drawing out the canvas threads. The canvas should be well basted on the material, the warp threads of the canvas lyingperfectly straighton a line with the warp threads of the material on which the pattern is worked. The stitches should always run the same way. If the first ground stitches are made from left to right, from bottom towards the top, the cross stitches should be made from right to left from the top towards the bottom. All the ground stitches run one way and the cross stitches in the opposite way.
This stitch is used for marking table linen, underwear, and embroidery designs. When marking linen and unlined work, make the under side very neat by running the thread under the stitches already made,instead of taking a long stitch when beginning in another part of the letter or design.
Satin Stitch
(10) The satin stitch is an over and over stitch and is used on materials of all kinds for marking linen, etc.
Thepaddingis the first step and should be done in long even stitches placed closely and over one another in the center. The size and proportions of the figure or letters determine the size of the thread. Fine thread gives the best results. The outline should be run twice; this keeps the edge firm. An even darning or basting stitches, chain stitches or outline stitch may be used if the space is not too small. The padding may be worked in an embroidery hoop to keep it smooth and even. Scallops may be padded in the same way or worked flat.
EMBROIDERY BUTTON HOLE AND BLANKET STITCHESEMBROIDERY BUTTON HOLE AND BLANKET STITCHESScallops Outlined and Padded.
Scallops Outlined and Padded.
In large figures the stitches are laid closely and exactly parallel the entire length of the form. They may be straight across or at an angle, but the one slant must be maintained throughout. In small curved figures,the stitches may be placed more closely at the inner edge and spread slightly at the outer edge. In flat work where the leaf or petal is large, two or three stitches taken in the cloth, back of the face stitch, holds them even and prevents misplacement in laundering. (All embroidery should be ironed on the wrong side.)
ARROW HEAD, DOUBLE ARROW HEAD AND CROW'S FOOT.ARROW HEAD, DOUBLE ARROW HEAD AND CROW'S FOOT.
Eyelet Embroidery
Eyelet embroidery is a simple over and over stitch forming a smooth, round edge. Like satin stitch, all outlines are run with an even darning stitch, except the very small eyelet holes, made with a stiletto. Long or oval openings must be cut through the center.
Shadow Embroidery
Shadow embroidery is worked on the wrong side of thin material, using the cat stitch. The outline of the design only shows on the right side, the body of the design being seen dimly through the material.
Arrow Heads
The arrow head and crow's foot are ornamental fastenings used in fine tailoring as endings for seams, tucks, plaits, and at corners. They are made as shown in the illustration.
Mercerized cotton, linen, or any of the embroidery silks can be used for these stitches, in all sizes and colors, or they can be worked with ordinary thread, cotton or linen, sewing silk, or twist. Cotton thread wears better than linen.
Folding Hems
A hem is a fold of goods twice folded to protect a raw edge. The first turn or fold of the hem is the most important. It should be straight and even,folded to a thread, for upon it depends the beauty of the hem. The hem should always be turned towards the worker and creased firmly, but never pleated along the fold. First crease the narrow fold, then crease the second fold the desired width, marking by a measure and baste not too near the edge. The first foldalongthewoofthreads should be at least one-fourth of an inch in width, as the woof threads give or stretch more than the warp threads; otherwise it will not lie flat.
Sewing Hems
In sewing the hem, the needle should take up only the edge to be hemmed down and just enough to hold on the cloth or lining. In white work the stitches should be fine, showing as little as possible.
Bias Hem
All bias and curved edges should have the first fold basted. In cloth or silk this first basting thread should match the material and not be taken out.
Faced hem
A facing or faced hem is also used as a protection to the edge of a garment. A true bias or fitted facing should be used for a facing if the edges of the garment are curved. An extension hem is one in which the whole width of the hem is used.
HEMMINGHEMMINGa—Shows method of cutting to do away with a clumsey corner.
a—Shows method of cutting to do away with a clumsey corner.
Slip-Stitching
Slip-stitching or invisible hemming is done on silk, wool, and thick material. The hem is pressed with an iron, a stitch as fine as possible is taken on the surface of the cloth and the needle slipped under and through the first fold, drawing the thread lightly. The needle and thread used in this stitch must be very fine.
MITERED CORNERSMITERED CORNERSMethod of Folding and Cutting.
Method of Folding and Cutting.
Rolled Hem
Rolled hem and whipped gathers are made with the wrong side of the material next the worker. Make a tiny roll of the edge towards the worker, using the left thumb and index finger, rolling an inch at a time (and no more) before hemming. Make fine, even stitches in the roll and goods. Keep the hem perfectly round, firm and not too large. This hem is adapted only to fine material and the edge across the warp is the more easily rolled.
ROLLED HEM AND WHIPPED GATHERSROLLED HEM AND WHIPPED GATHERSa—Rolled Hem Gathered;b—Whipped Roll;c—Double Whipped;d—Roll Hemmed;e—Gathers Sewed to Band.
a—Rolled Hem Gathered;b—Whipped Roll;c—Double Whipped;d—Roll Hemmed;e—Gathers Sewed to Band.
Whipped Gathers
To gather, whip the rolled hem without hemming, making overcasting stitches towards you, even and not too fine. Use coarser thread than for hemming. This gathering thread is used to hold down the edge as well as for drawing up the gathers and it not to be taken out, as is the ordinary gathering thread. It shouldnotcatch in the roll. Have the thread the length of the plain space to which it is to be sewed and regulate the gathers as you do the gathering. After the edge is rolled, whipped and gathered, it is sewed to the garment by the little scallops or raised parts made by the whipping. This is used only for making ruffles or gathering on very fine hand work.
French Hem
The French hem is used for table linen. Fold as in an ordinary hem, then fold the hem back on the right side and overhand the edge formed, taking fine stitches. Press the hem flat from the right side.
Flannel Hems
Flannel hems shouldnotbe twice folded, for there will be a ridge instead of a flat surface after the garment has been laundered, owing to the felting properties of the wool. Hems on flannel should not be stitched by hand or machine, but cat stitched on the wrong side and finished on the right side with any ornamental stitch.
Hems in infants' clothing may be turned on the right side and made ornamental by feather stitching.
No selvage should ever be used on a hem. The selvage is more closely woven and will draw or pucker in laundrying.
Tucks are folds made on thin material for ornament, to shorten or to provide for lengthening a garment. If done by hand, a card measure is preferable to a tape measure for marking the space and width of the tucks. The folds should be creased to a thread, basted and sewed with a running stitch showing but little on the face, or stitched on the machine. Fine thread should be used.
A seam is the line of sewing that joins material; it may be plain or ornamental. The most important are the overhand, felled, French, slot, lapped, flannel, and beaded.
The overhand seam is described under the overhand stitch.
Felled Seam
A fell is a seam hemmed down to the goods to protect the raw edge. It is usually made in night dresses, drawers, corset covers, etc. Baste with the piece farthest from the worker extended one-eighth of an inch beyond the other and sewedwith the grainof the goods, beginning at the widest part of any bias. Press the seam with the nail on the right side, turn the wide edge down flat to cover the raw edge and line of sewing, and hem flat either by hand or machine. Care should be taken to keep the seam flat on the right as well as on the wrong side. If the felling is done with the machine hemmer, the wide edge must be on the opposite side. The seam may be basted with both edges even if preferred, cutting off one edge after stitching.
SEAMSSEAMSa—Full;b—French Screen.
a—Full;b—French Screen.
BEADED AND TAPED SEAMSBEADED AND TAPED SEAMSA—Tape basted on one edge, and the other edge turned and stitched;B—Beading whipped to the folded edges;a—Stitched hem;b—Hem finished with feather stitching.
A—Tape basted on one edge, and the other edge turned and stitched;B—Beading whipped to the folded edges;a—Stitched hem;b—Hem finished with feather stitching.
French Seam
A French seam is sewed twice—first on the right side as near the raw edge as possible. Cut off all frayed edges, turn the material by foldingon the seamor line of sewing, so the seam is folded inside and the second sewing is on the wrong side below the raw edges. This is not a good seam for underwear worn next the body, as it leaves a ridge on the wrong side, but it is useful for skirts of thin material, etc. It is more easily made than a fell.
Beaded Seam
Beaded seams used for fine white work have a line of beading overhanded between gores, hems, or gathers. The hem along the seam should be folded on the right side, leaving a perfectly flat surface to iron on the wrong side, and finished with an ornamental stitch covering the hem.
Slot Seams
The slot seam, used in cloth dresses and jackets, requires exact basting with silk or very fine thread with small, even stitches. If a coarse thread is used, the material will be badly marked. After basting, press the seam open as if it had been stitched, and baste the strap or under strip of the dress material (which has been cut perfectly straight and even) over the wrong side of the seam, having the center of the seam on the center of the strap. Stitch any width desired beyond the center through the three thicknesses. This will hold the seam in position. Now remove the bastings from the seam and the slot effect is complete. If desired, there may be a double row of stitching, an extra row on the edge of the fold or plait. These seams may be finished at the bottom with arrow heads or stitched designs. The lines of machine stitching should not end without some ornament toappearto hold the plait.
SLOT SEAM FINISHED WITH ARROW HEADSLOT SEAM FINISHED WITH ARROW HEAD
FLANNEL SEAMS AND HEMSFLANNEL SEAMS AND HEMSFinished with various Ornamental Stitches.
Finished with various Ornamental Stitches.
Lapped Seam
In the lapped seam the edges are folded each within the other or one over the other so that both sides are alike. If made of heavy material, the raw edges are left unturned; in muslin or linen the edges are inturned, lapped, basted and the hem stitched on both edges or hemmed down on both sides by hand.
PLACKETSPLACKETSA—Made by folding a wide hem over a narrow one;B—Tape faced sewing for the purpose of a gusset. Method of folding the tape shown.
A—Made by folding a wide hem over a narrow one;B—Tape faced sewing for the purpose of a gusset. Method of folding the tape shown.
Flannel Seams
Flannel seams should be stitched, opened and pressedflat, either on the right or wrong side of the garment. If on the right side, taffeta ribbon should be basted over the seam, so that the raw edges of flannel will not show, and cat stitched or buttonhole stitched on both sides of the ribbon, or any fancy stitch—not too long—may be used. This is the Dorothy seam. For the seam on the wrong side, the edges should be cat stitched with fine thread. Any ornamental stitch may be used on the right side of the seam. Always press flannel seams and hems before finishing. Flannel should never be hem stitched.
A placket is an opening in a garment allowing it to be put on. The simplest placket is made by cutting a slit and folding a wide hem over a narrow one turned on the face of the goods; this makes a pleat below the vent. There should be a double line of stitching across the bottom of the hem to strengthen the placket.
Tape Faced Placket
The tape faced placket is stronger and may be used in children's drawers, etc., in place of a gusset to strengthen the end of the opening. A single piece of tape folded back as for a loop is stitched along all edges, making an opening without a lap. This offers as much resistance as a gusset and is more quickly done.
FACED PLACKETFACED PLACKETA—Wrong side, opened, showing tape;B—Right side showing on-set piece; aa and bb the same ends of the tape; 1-2 method of folding and cutting end of on-set piece.
A—Wrong side, opened, showing tape;B—Right side showing on-set piece; aa and bb the same ends of the tape; 1-2 method of folding and cutting end of on-set piece.