CHAPTER XIHERTFORDSHIRE

c.184, Lucius, King of Britain, consecrates Westminster (then Thorny Island) to God, and builds the first church there—At the time of Diocletian’s persecution, the church converted into a heathen temple and dedicated to Apollo—604, Sebert, King of the East Saxons, converted and baptized into the Christian faith by Mellitus—He destroys the temple and builds a church in honour of St Peter—This suffers greatly from the ravages of the Danes—785, Offa, King of Mercia, grants the manor of Aldenham to the monastery and restores the church—1050, Edward the Confessor, the actual founder of the present abbey, builds the church—1065, The church completed and consecrated a few days previously to the royal founder’s death—1066, Edward buried with great ceremonial—King Harold crowned—William the Conqueror offers a thanksgiving for his victory at Hastings before the Confessor’s tomb, and is crowned in the abbey on Christmas day—1160, Becomes a mitred abbey—1250, Henry III. pulls down the choir and transepts of Edward’s Norman church and begins the present structure—1253, The chapter house completed—1269, The choir opened—1272-1500, The nave begun, gradually attaining its present length—During these years Richard I. builds the north porch, and Henry V. his beautiful chantry—1503, Henry VII. builds the chapel which bears his name—153—, Dissolution of the monastery. Annual revenue, £3471, 0s. 2d.—1540, The church converted into a cathedral church and a new bishopric created—1550, Bishopric suppressed—1643, The Westminster Assembly meets—1663, The See of Rochester joined to the Deanery of Westminster—1673, Treaty of Westminster signed—1720, Some restorations performed by Wren on north transept, front and west towers—1740, Hawkesmoor completes the towers—1802, Separation of Rochester bishopric from Deanery of Westminster—1866, Sir G. Scott restores the north transept front and chapter house.

HOWutterly incapable the most experienced writer must feel when called upon to describe worthily theabbey of Westminster! Apart from all the legendary matter connected with the noble pile, and the glamour which surrounds the ancient Benedictine church, the abbey stands out as the receptacle of all that is best and grandest in the history of England. The tombs of the kings and queens, the monuments erected since the Reformation in memory of notable men and women in literature, music, and all other arts, make history a nearer and more living thing. To pass beneath the noble west front into the sacred building, teaming with memories of the past, is to enter another world, so different is the peaceful and mysterious atmosphere within the abbey from the bustle and hum of London without. Looking eastwards from the west door, the aspect is truly inspiring and beautiful. From the graceful pointed arches, dividing the nave from the aisles, and surmounted by the triforium and clerestory, the eye falls on the choir, with its magnificent stone screen, and beyond this again to the dim and apsidal east end. The loftiness of the building, the fine triforium, the harmony of work in the nave (which took over 200 years to build), will deeply impress the beholder.

Though the plan of the church is French, the whole actual structure is an example of English Gothic work, of which the nation has every right to be proud. The abbey possesses side aisles to the nave, transepts, and choir. This is a very rare formation. Leaving the nave, filled with memorials of the illustrious dead, and passing up the south choir aisle, the south transept comes in view. The magnificent rose window is one of the largest, if not the largest, in England. On the south wall are some worn stone steps. These, no doubt, led to the domestic apartments of the monks, which were situated on the south side of the church. In this transept is the well-known “Poets’ Corner,” which contains memorials inscribed with the magic names of Shakespeare, Dickens, Tennyson, Goldsmith, Burns, Sir Walter Scott, Longfellow,Browning, Milton, and many others. Beyond this is the small chapel dedicated to St Faith. Passing on into the south ambulatory the many interesting chapels can be inspected. Here indeed the visitor treads on holy ground, for he approaches the tombs of England’s divinely-appointed rulers, and of the last resting-place of the greatest of her sons. Leaving the chapels of St Benedict, St Edmund and St Nicholas, so full of historical memory, the visitor may pass into the chantry built by the illustrious Henry V. for the repose of his soul. This chantry lies in a direct line eastwards from the high altar and beyond Edward the Confessor’s chapel, which is immediately behind the altar. The figure of the warrior King reposes on the top of his tomb. It was carved from the heart of an oak, and once possessed a head and regalia of silver. These, however, have unfortunately been removed, probably by the rapacious Oliver Cromwell. The chantry itself is in the form of a screen or small room, which is reached by a stairway enclosed in a turret, and left by another on the opposite side. The screen is covered with images of saints, and also incidents of Henry’s coronation, besides many heraldic emblems. On either side are two octagonal towers, rich in sculpture. It is indeed one of the most beautiful monuments in the building. Below are iron gates and the tomb of Henry V., and above are displayed a saddle tree stripped of its elaborate housings, a small shield, and a helmet upon which can be seen the prodigious dent caused by D’Alençon’s battle axe. These remains of Henry’s armour, worn at the battle of Agincourt, were offered by the King in thanksgiving for his great victory. It is quite fitting that the burial place of this royal hero should be near the remains of the saintly ruler and founder of the abbey, Edward the Confessor.

St Edward’s chapel is perhaps the most interesting part of the noble structure, for though comparativelysmall, events of the highest historical importance in our history have been enacted therein. The shrine has been visited by thousands of pilgrims, including many crowned heads, and has also been the scene of many miracles. Vigils were spent beside it by knights before setting out for the borders, or starting upon the crusades. Spoils of war were brought and laid before the tomb, and thanksgivings offered by victorious kings and warriors. Edward I., all stained as he was by the blood of the battlefield, offered the regalia of Scotland before the royal tomb, and many other mighty men came to seek consolation and encouragement in those days of dreadful warfare. Henry III. erected the present magnificent shrine in 1269. This now, alas, is shorn of the many and costly jewels that once enriched it, and which it is said amounted in value to £2500. The present oak canopy was added in the 16th century. The floor of the chapel is of tesselated blue marble and was laid by Henry III. The site of the Confessor’s altar is marked by a square of red tiles. The old coronation chair stands to the west of the chapel, near the enormous sword and shield of Edward III., and beneath it is the stone credited with being Jacob’s pillow, and which, after going through many vicissitudes in its long career, was at last brought from Scone to Edward the Confessor’s shrine by Edward I. The chair was first used at the coronation of Edward I., and lastly at that of our beloved King Edward VII. Every English monarch has been crowned at the abbey with the exception of Edward V. On all sides of the chapel are royal tombs, including those of Edward III., Henry III., and Edward I. The latter is of enormous length, and bears the inscription, “Scotorum malleus” and “Serva pactum.” This monarch—nicknamed “Longshanks”—was over 6 feet when alive. After many years, his body for some reason was disinterred for a short space, and it was found to be in anexcellent state of preservation. That noble lady, Anne of Bohemia, who gained notoriety by the introduction of the side saddle, also lies buried near here.

Leaving this chapel and progressing eastwards, the visitor will pass under St Mary’s beautiful porch into the wonderful chapel built by Henry VII. This is one of the best examples of Early Tudor or debased Gothic style, and, consisting as it does of a nave with two aisles, is indeed a masterpiece of the builder’s art. On either side of the nave are the stalls of the Knights of the Garter, above which hang their respective banners. The tomb of Henry VII., the first monarch of the royal house of Tudor, is the work of Torregiano. The ornamental vaulting of the chapel is among the finest in the country—its massive pendants being 7 feet long. Little of the original glass is left, but what remains is in the windows at the west end. The Duke of Cumberland, known as the Butcher of Culloden, and George II. and his wife lie in the nave. George III. discontinued the practice begun by Henry VII. of using this chapel as a royal mausoleum, having a preference for Windsor. Those two antagonistic sisters, Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth lie in the north aisle, side by side under a magnificent stone canopy, while at the extreme east end of the aisle, appropriately called “Innocents’ Corner,” are buried the remains of the young princes so foully murdered in the Tower. The tomb of Mary, Queen of Scots, is in the south aisle, together with that of Margaret Beaufort, mother of Henry VII. Many other interesting monuments can be seen, including that of Arthur Penrhyn Stanley, Dean of Westminster, in the south-east chapel, and those belonging to the houses of Richmond, Suffolk and Lennox. Cromwell was buried in the east chapel, but his remains were disinterred and dragged to Tyburn gallows.

Retracing his steps the visitor will pass along thenorth ambulatory—the chapel of St Edward being now on the left and those of St Paul, St John the Baptist, and the Islip being on the right. In the latter, which is the chantry of Abbot Islip, waxen figures of some of the royal line are shown. These, though of somewhat gruesome nature, are intensely interesting, being the actual waxen casts taken after death. It was the custom to carry the figure of the deceased at the funeral and then to leave it at the abbey after interment. Many have decayed—the oldest one now on view being that of Queen Elizabeth. The figures are dressed in the clothes of the Sovereigns they personate. The lace on the neck of Charles II. is of great value. Passing into the north transept or Statesmen’s Aisle, many stone memorials again confront the beholder, and include those of Beaconsfield, Gladstone, and William Pitt. Warren Hastings, Richard Cobden and Vice-admiral Watson—the gallant man who rescued the survivors of the “Black hole of Calcutta”—are buried among many other notable men in the west aisle. The three eastern chapels of this transept contain many interesting monuments too—that of Lady Elizabeth Nightingale, in the chapel of St Michael, is perhaps the most popular. It represents her husband trying to shield her from the relentless form of Death, which takes the shape of a shrouded skeleton issuing out of a door below with a raised sword in his hand.

Progressing again towards the centre of the building, the ritual choir of three bays and the sacrarium claim the attention. The tombs here of Aveline of Lancaster, her husband Edmund Crouchbank and Aymer de Valence—all of the 13th century—are among the finest in the abbey. Near the insignificant tomb of Anne of Cleves lies Anne, wife of Richard III., and some of the abbots of Westminster. Busby and South are buried close to the altar. The mosaic pavement consists of porphyry, lapis lazuli, jasper, touchstone, alabaster, and Lydian and serpentinemarbles. These were brought by Abbot Ware from Italy and arranged in the reign of Henry III. by Roderick.

An excellent view can be gained by looking west from the altar rails. The absolute sympathy of all the parts of this lovely building, the graceful arches, the diaper work in the spandrils of the choir arches, the loftiness and mysterious atmosphere of the ancient structure will appeal to all the highest aspirations of the individual. It is the temple of God, and also the shelter of those either of noble or lowly birth who have, according to their capabilities, furthered civilisation and promoted the common good; who, in fact, have done God’s work in this present world and endeavoured to make their fellow-men more worthy of the world to come. No one can enter this abbey and not be impressed by the dignity and solemnity of the surroundings. To look at the small, insignificant pulpit in the nave is nothing; but to learn that Latimer preached from it is everything. All is in keeping—nothing jars upon the artistic sense—with perhaps the exception of the numerous monuments. Still, these too have their place in showing that the mother-abbey takes into her arms all those who have worthily fulfilled the mission of their lives. The cloisters on the south side of the abbey are of great interest and contain many monuments, and the windows, too, in the south alley are remarkably beautiful. On this side are remains of the north wall of the former refectory. The chapter-house is one of the largest in England and was for many years used as a House of Commons. Earl Simon de Montfort assembled his first representative parliament here in the 13th century. The dormitory of the monastery is now used by the boys of Westminster School, founded by Queen Elizabeth, 1560.

The remote history of Westminster Abbey is enveloped in mystery, its earliest foundation being firstly ascribed to Lucius, King of Britain in the 2nd century,and secondly to Sebert, King of the East Saxons, who, in the 7th century, was converted into the Christian faith by Mellitus, an emissary of Augustine. Be this as it may, the first certain knowledge concerning the abbey is that Offa, King of Mercia, gave some lands to the monastery at Westminster in the 8th century. Nearly three hundred years had elapsed when Edward the Confessor, persuaded by the monks, was induced to build an entirely new building at an enormous cost. This, the founder determined, should be the “place of the King’s constitution and consecration for ever.” Among other gifts, the bounteous King gave rich vestments, an embroidered pall, a dalmatic, some spurs, a golden crown, a sceptre, and also confirmed all the previous endowments. The new abbey was dedicated on Holy Innocents’ day, 1065. Unfortunately the King was too ill to attend this ceremonial. He died eight days after, and was buried in front of the high altar. In the time of William the Conqueror a great synod was held in the church. Archbishop Lanfranc presided over the meeting at which the conduct and capability of the English clergy were closely examined, “yet with covert design of making room for the new-come Normans.” The Conqueror in many ways endeavoured to ingratiate himself with the newly conquered people. For this reason he was crowned in the abbey by the side of its founder’s tomb. The Feast of Edward the Confessor was observed annually with much pomp in the sacred building.

In the 13th century Henry III. began to rebuild the abbey—the choir, transepts and chapels of the present structure being entirely his work. Little remains of the Confessor’s Norman building (the first of this style built in England) except some parts of the cloisters and the Chapel of the Pyx. The trial of the Pyx took place in the former apartment until the recent removal of standard coins to the mint. The Jerusalem Chamber is also an important relic of the Benedictine monastery. It was built in 1363 byLittlington, who also rebuilt the abbot’s house. Henry IV. died within its walls. Henry V. gave the trappings of his coursers to the abbey—to be converted into vestments. In this reign the building of the nave was pushed forward and the Te Deum sung after the battle of Agincourt. Caxton set up his printing press in the almonry at Westminster during the reign of Edward IV. Henry VII. added greatly to the beauty of the building by annexing his chapel to the east end. During his reign, Skelton, the first poet laureate, sought sanctuary in Westminster, which is the last instance on record of a person claiming this right. Sir Thomas More was imprisoned in the abbot’s house in 1534—a few years before the Dissolution of the monasteries. The usual fate overtook the religious establishment at Westminster, but as in the cases of Chester, Gloucester, Peterborough, Oxford and Bristol, the monastic church was converted into a cathedral—and a new bishopric formed. Thirlby became the first Bishop of Westminster in 1540—but was translated to Norwich ten years later and the bishopric suppressed. In this transaction the abbey lost some property which came into the possession of St Paul’s Cathedral, a circumstance to which the origin of the well-known saying, “Robbing Peter to pay Paul” may be adduced. The shrine of the Confessor was re-established in 1557, the old constitution having been restored two years previously. In the reign of Elizabeth this was again annulled.

In Henry VII.’s chapel the Westminster Assembly met in the 17th century, and through their misguided energy Presbyterianism was established as the national religion for a certain time. It is impossible to say what dire effects this Assembly might have wrought upon the welfare of the country.

“By its advice the public use of the Prayer Book was forbidden under penalties the very day that the Primate was executed, and a directory for public worship substituted for it. By the directory it was made an offence to kneel at thereception of Holy Communion, or to use any kind of symbolism in sacred things, such as the ring in marriage, and when any person departed this life, the dead body was to be interred without any kind of religious ceremony, nor even the friends allowed to sing or read or pray or kneel at the grave; although secular display in funeral processions of persons of rank was not restricted. Then the holy and beautiful petitions of our Liturgy, though sanctified by the devotions of Christians in every clime and by every tongue for 1500 years and more, gave place to long and tedious harangues from illiterate fanatics of two or three hours’ duration, and the observance of great church festivals, together with all anniversaries, was strictly forbidden. On December 19th, 1644, a solemn ordinance of parliament was passed by the advice of the Westminster Assembly commanding that the hitherto joyous anniversary of our Lord’s Nativity should be observed as a day of national fasting and humiliation.”—English Church History(Rev.C. A. Lane).

The Parliamentarians under Cromwell fortunately soon put a stop to those irksome restrictions.

The Bishopric of Rochester was united with the Deanery of Westminster in 1663 and, after a partnership of over a hundred years, parted at the beginning of the 19th century. The treaty of Westminster was signed in 1673. Samuel Wilberforce became the Dean in 1845. Many well-known men followed him and during the time of office of Dean Bradley, 1881-1902, Queen Victoria held her Jubilee Celebration and Edward VII. was crowned in the Abbey.

303, A church built to the memory of Alban, proto-martyr of Britain and Roman soldier—793, Destroyed by the Saxon invaders—King Offa founds a monastery and builds a second church in honour of St Alban—1077, Paul de Caen, first abbot, begins to rebuild the church—During his life the eastern part of the nave, the transepts and the central tower completed—1115, The church consecrated by the Bishop of Lincoln in the presence of Henry I. and Queen Maud—1154, Nicholas, Bishop of St Albans, chosen Pope (Adrian IV.). He “granted to the abbot of this abbey that as St Alban was the first martyr of England, so this abbot should be the first of all the abbots of England in order and dignity” (Dugdale’sMonasticon)—1218, Pope Honorious “confirms all lands and privileges”—1349, Thomas de la Mare becomes abbot—The captive King John of France entrusted to his care—1381, The monastery plays a prominent part in the Peasant Rising—1464, The abbey stripped of its valuables by the victorious Queen Margaret after the second battle of St Albans—1521, Wolsey becomes abbot—1539, The abbey surrendered by Richard Boreham, last abbot, to the commissioners of Henry VIII.—1553, Granted to the Mayor and burgesses for a parish church and grammar school—1688, The scheme for the restoration of the building supported by public subscription—1878, The diocese of St Albans founded—Thomas Leigh Claughton becomes first bishop—1879, West front built by Lord Grimthorpe—1885, Restoration of nave completed.

THEquiet little town of St Albans in Hertfordshire has sprung up on the site of the Roman city Verulamium, the ruined walls of which are still to be seen. Here, according to the legend, Alban, the proto-martyr of Britain, was born. Converted to Christianity by the priest Amphibalus—to whom he had given shelter—he refused to renounce his faith, and was beheaded. The martyrdom took placeoutside the walls of the town, on the exact site on which now stands the cathedral—formerly the abbey—of St Albans. A small church was erected on the hill a few years after St Alban’s death, and later a second church was planned in expiation of a still greater crime. Ethelbert of East Anglia had been treacherously murdered by his father-in-law, Offa, King of Mercia, who now sought to salve his conscience by building a monastery in honour of St Alban. Of this second church (the first was only a temporary shelter for the relics of the saint, which were supposed to have been miraculously discovered by King Offa) there are now but few traces. The town of St Albans lies on a high hill, while the Ver, a stream supposed to have burst forth miraculously to assuage the thirst of Alban the martyr, flows along the peaceful valley below.

The view of the massive structure of the abbey church is from all points impressive. The great length of the nave with its magnificent western front, the pinnacled transepts, the choir and Lady chapel, all crowned by the lofty castellated tower, make up a truly marvellous whole. The greater part of the church was built after the Norman Conquest by the Abbot Paul, whose uncle, Lanfranc, was first appointed abbot of St Stephen’s at Caen by William I. and afterwards made Archbishop of Canterbury. Founded on the spot where Alban was cruelly put to death, this immense monastery extended over the hill side as far as the river. With the exception of the monastery gateway, the entire conventual part was swept away at the Dissolution. Fortunately the abbey church was spared, and became, as in many other cases, the parish church of the district. Every style of architecture is shown in the building, from the time of the Normans to the reign of Edward IV. The nave is of thirteen bays with aisles; the two transepts have no aisles, and, as in the case of Westminster Abbey, the choir is west of the crossing. Thepresbytery and Lady chapel extend beyond the choir. The pillars of the triforium and south transept are of Saxon work and are all that remains of the 8th century church built by King Offa. The most ancient parts of the edifice are those most central, the east and west ends being of a different style of architecture and of a later period. The eastern part of the nave, the transepts and central tower, are all the work of Abbot Paul. Admirable in its proportions, the heavy Norman arches—relieved occasionally by those of Early English work—the beautiful moulding, the grand spaciousness of the whole building combine to make a grand and effective whole, while simplicity is undoubtedly the key-note of the entire structure. Although all the abbots of St Alban’s are buried here, very few of their tombs and monuments remain.

Shrines have been erected to the memory of St Alban and St Amphibalus, and in the Lady chapel lie many historical personages, including Henry Percy, Duke of Northumberland, son of Hotspur; and Lord Clifford (killed in the first battle of St Albans). Great interest attaches to the high altar screen, erected by Abbot William Wallingford in the 15th century, the chantry of Abbot Ramyge, the Holy Rood screen, the watching chamber in the south wing of the transept, and also to the window in the south aisle representing the martyrdom of St Alban, below which is the following inscription—

MDCXXIII“This image of our frailty, painted glass,Shows when the life and death of Alban was,A knight beheads the Martyr, but so soonHis eyes dropt out to see what he had done.And leaving their own head, seemed with a tearTo wail the other head laid mangled thereBecause, before, his eyes no tear had shedHis eyes themselves like tears fall from his head.Ah! bloody fact that whilst St Alban diesThe murderer himself weeps out his eyes.In zeal to heaven where holy Alban’s bonesWere buried, Offa raised this heap of stones;Which after by devouring time abused,Into the dying parts infused[10]By James the first of England to becomeThe glory of Alban’s proto-martyrdom.”

MDCXXIII

“This image of our frailty, painted glass,Shows when the life and death of Alban was,A knight beheads the Martyr, but so soonHis eyes dropt out to see what he had done.And leaving their own head, seemed with a tearTo wail the other head laid mangled thereBecause, before, his eyes no tear had shedHis eyes themselves like tears fall from his head.Ah! bloody fact that whilst St Alban diesThe murderer himself weeps out his eyes.

In zeal to heaven where holy Alban’s bonesWere buried, Offa raised this heap of stones;Which after by devouring time abused,Into the dying parts infused[10]By James the first of England to becomeThe glory of Alban’s proto-martyrdom.”

Founded and endowed in the 12th century by Richard de Grainvilla—Dedicated to the Holy Trinity and occupied successively by Franciscan and Cistercian monks—1208, All previous grants confirmed and many privileges and immunities bestowed by King John—15—, Dissolved. Annual revenue, £132, 7s. 7d.—1544, Granted to Sir Richard Williams—1650, The abbey house comes into the possession of the Hobby family.

NEATH, a flourishing seaport in Glamorganshire, possesses some interesting features. Claiming to be built on the site of a Roman station and having some scattered remains of an ancient castle—burnt down in the 13th century—it also boasts extensive ruins of an abbey, which, if we believe Lewis Morganwg, the famous Welsh bard, must have been enriched in days past with many beauties—

“Like the sky of the vale of Ebron is the covering of this monastery; weighty is the lead that roofs this abode—the dark blue canopy of the dwellings of the Godly. Every colour is seen in the crystal windows, every fair and high-wrought form beams forth through them like the rays of the sun. Portals of radiant guardians! Pure and empyreal, here is every dignified language and every well-skilled preceptor. Here are seen the graceful robes of prelates, here may be found gold and jewels, the tribute of the wealthy. Here also is the gold-adorned choir, the nave, the gilded tabernacle-work, the pinnacles, worthy of the ThreeFountains. Distinctly may be seen on glass, imperial arms; a ceiling resplendent with kingly bearings, and on the surrounding border, the shields of princes; the arms of Neath, of a hundred ages; there is the white freestone and the arms of the best men under the crown of Harry, and the church walls of grey marble. The vast and lofty roof is like the sparkling heavens on high, above are seen archangels’ forms; the floor beneath is for the people of earth, all the tribe of Babel, for them it is wrought of variegated stone. The bells, the benedictions, and the peaceful songs of praise, proclaim the frequent thanksgiving of the White Monks.”

Standing on the left bank of the river Neath, the ruins, now, alas, begrimed with smoke, are situated at the opening of one of the most beautiful of the Welsh valleys. There are but few monastic foundations in the Principality—the most interesting being Valle Crucis in the north and Neath in the south. Founded by Richard de Grainvilla, or Granville (a connection of the FitzHamons)—who also enlarged Neath Castle—it possessed the right of sanctuary and consequently found favour from Edward II. After undergoing many enlargements and alterations between the time of its foundation and that of the Dissolution—when it was inhabited by only eight monks,—the demesne was granted to Sir Richard Williams by Henry VIII., and in the 17th century the abbey house became the home of the Hobby family. Of this primarily Franciscan and latterly Cistercian monastery the priory house is the best preserved fragment. There is also a lengthy apartment, considered to be the remains of the chapter-house and containing a remarkable double-vaulted ceiling; but of the abbey church nothing remains except disconsolate heaps of fallen masonry.

1200, Founded by Madoc ap Griffith Madoc, Lord of Bromfield, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary—1535, Suppressed. Annual revenue, £180, 8s.

The ruins of this Cistercian house are situated in a secluded part of Denbighshire and are both beautiful and somewhat extensive. The river Dee flows close at hand and high wooded hills shelter the crumbling walls. Fine ash trees bend gracefully over the ruined arches and with the encroaching ivy, add greatly to the picturesque beauty of the abbey. The name “Valle Crucis” (Valley of the Cross) is derived from and ancient cross, known as the “Pillar of Eliseg,” built on a tumulus just above Llangollen in the 8th century. This cross was erected by Concenn in memory of his great-grandfather Eliseg. The limestone rocks which surround it are called the Eliseg Mountains, and it is supposed by some authorities that they are named from a church which stood in a meadow below, still known as “the meadow of the church.” Five hundred years after the erection of the cross, Madoc, Lord of the Castle of Dinas Bran, established a church and monastery in this peaceful district and filled it with Cistercian monks.

The church, of which considerable portions remain, consisted of a nave of five bays with aisles, choir, and north and south transepts—each of which had an aisle and two chapels. The west front and portions of the transepts are still standing, the Early English windows in the former being of double lights and crowned in the gable above by a circular or marigold window. An inscription can be seen above the lancets recording that Abbot Adams “fecit hoc opus” Besides these fragments, some portions of the outer walls of the nave and some of the piers remain, while part of the vaulting is still intact in the east aisle of the south transept. The former chapter-house was at one time used as a farm house, but has now happilybeen restored to itself. It adjoins the sacristy and lies to the south of the church. Architecturally Valle Crucis is an excellent example of the Welsh type of Transition or Early English work. That there was formerly a tower can be learnt from the lines of the poet Churchyard:—

“An Abbey near the mountayne towre there is,Whose walls yet stand, and steeple too, likewise.”

Though now practically a waste, this abbey was once a rich foundation, owning, besides a number of livings, three hundred acres of “plough land.” Much care has been taken of the ruined buildings, but the relentless hand of Time has laid so heavy a hold upon them that they are now but a shadow of their former beauty.

c.580, Founded by St Columba and his nephew Drostan—1219, Refounded by William Comyn, Earl of Buchan.

AMIDSTthe low lying hills of the vicinity, the ruins of Deer abbey still lift their shattered walls towards the sky. Founded by St Columba and his nephew, and dedicated to St Drostan, they are situated in the older portion of the parish of Deer, where the incidents related in “Sir John of the Rose” are supposed to have been laid. Of the fine building, which was formerly erected “to the glory of God,” only very little remains; but although the ruins are so scanty that they afford but little pleasure to the archæologist or the tourist, they are treasured and reverenced on account of the immense service they have rendered literature in keeping safely hidden from the ravages of time documents of great antiquity, and consequently of great value as recording the customs and mode of living of our ancestors. The manuscripts, written in Latin, were discovered in the 18th century, but little attention was directed to them until these precious fragments of monastic literature found their way to Cambridge, and in 1860 the attention ofstudents was drawn to them by the learned librarian, Mr Bradshaw. It was then found that the small octavo of 86 pages contained St John’s Gospel, portions of the other three Gospels, the Apostle’s Creed, a fragment of an office for the visitation of the sick, and lastly, a Gælic Rubric. Some notes on the various endowments to the monastery were written on the blank sheets—evidently penmanship of the 12th century. These are of the greatest interest as being the earliest examples of Scottish Gælic known. The Gospels mentioned above were chiefly in the Vulgate version of St Jerome.

The old family of Comyn, a member of whom re-founded the abbey in the 13th century, was defeated in battle at Deer by the followers of Edward Bruce.

1150, Founded by David I.—1303, Edward I. makes the abbey his headquarters—After the Reformation the abbey demesne passes into the Bruce family.

Situated near the Moray Firth, these few ruins, often, doubtless, the scene of warfare, owe their origin, as is so often the case, to supernatural agency. King David—a hardy and brave man, though at times relentless and cruel towards his victims—is supposed on one occasion to have lost his way while hunting in the forest, and, like many poor mortals when threatened with personal danger, to have invoked his Maker’s aid to extricate him out of his dilemma. In answer to his prayer a dove appeared and led him to the site on which subsequently he built the abbey of Kinloss, and which was in due time inhabited by Cistercian monks. About a century and a half later, Edward I., King of England, having won a decisive victory over the Scots at Falkirk, had reason again to assemble a large force—the Scots not being entirelysubjugated, having gained several successes in the meantime. In 1303 he led his army over the frontier, and making the abbey his headquarters, “marched victorious from one end of the kingdom to the other.” Wallace, through the treachery of a friend, fell into Edward’s hands, but though deprived of her heroic leader, Scotland was not to be entirely overcome. Edward I., secure of success, invaded the northern country four years later, and was, as we know, attacked by a fatal illness at Berwick. His son then succeeded to the throne, but having neither the wish nor the capability to follow in his father’s footsteps, the battle of Bannockburn eventually gave Scotland her longed-for independence in 1314. Edward III. also paid a visit to this abbey in the year 1336. The abbey demesne passed after the Reformation into the possession of the Bruce family, whose ancestor, Robert, so bravely led his men to victory at Bannockburn; and, though they in turn sold it, they acquired, as Earls of Elgin, the title of baron through it.

Only the foundations of the abbey church are visible, and not a remnant of the walls remains. For this, Cromwell is to be held partially responsible. His soldiers carried away the stones of the sacred building for the purpose of erecting the Pretender’s Castle at Inverness. But that unfortunate man, on whom there is perhaps more malice and spite vented than on any other of England’s celebrities, was not altogether responsible for the present dilapidated state of the abbey, as for years, nay centuries, in common with so many other religious edifices, the building served as a quarry for all the houses and walks in the neighbourhood. Of the domestic buildings some remnants still remain, consisting of a cloister wall, two arches, a prior’s house and part of a dwelling-house.

c.1230, Founded by the Earl of Ross in the reign of Alexander III.—1607, Annexed to the bishopric of Ross by James VI.—1742, Some slates and part of the roof fall during service, killing forty-four people.

As is so often the case in regard to various abbeys, the mutilated remains of this conventual church, once belonging to the Præmonstratensian monastery, founded at Fearn in the 13th century, are now appropriated for the religious worship of the inhabitants of the town—the nave, chancel, and two side chapels (all of the Early English period), being converted into the parish church of the district. The abbey, curiously enough, was originally founded at Edderton, twelve miles to the north-west, but was subsequently placed in its present position, owing, it is thought, to the fertility of the soil. It was built by Farquhar, first Earl of Ross. Patrick Hamilton, the noted Scotch reformer of the 16th century, was abbot there. He and George Wishart—both ardent followers of John Knox—were burnt at the stake for heresy during the primacies of Archbishop Beatoun, and his successor.

It may be of interest to follow the various stages of Scottish religion from early Celtic times until the Reformation.

“From the days of St Columba up to the 12th century, the old Celtic Church of Scotland preserved its independence; but it had to bow before the onward march of papal usurpation just as the Church of England had done. Their wild nature and their tribal feuds made the Scots a ready prey to the diplomacy of papal embassies when the sister kingdom sought for aid against Norman conquerors, and the Scots allowed the Pope to claim feudal lordship over them that he might help them to keep the English south of the border. The ecclesiastical supremacy obtained by Anselm over the Scottish Church was only temporary, for Pope Clement III. was induced (A.D.1190) to declare the Scotch Church independent of any authority outside his own. After that the Scotch clergy fell into the worldly mindedhabits of mediæval Christianity, and many scandalous proceedings were recorded ... until the cry went up in Scotland as elsewhere that the church should be purified. But the Scottish Reformation came like a deluge, sweeping away the good and the bad together, until nothing was left of the apostolic constitution which has descended from the old Celtic Christianity. John Knox ... was the leader of the Scotch Reformers; and the example of England, with which his position as chaplain to Edward VI. had made him familiar, was speedily followed in the destruction of the Scottish monasteries.”—English Church History(Rev.C. Arthur Lane).

In consequence of all this disturbance, many beautiful churches in Scotland were destroyed. To take a solitary case—that of the Carthusian monastery at Perth, which succumbed to the violent attacks of the Reformers in 1559. In this year John Knox returned to Scotland, and urging on his men, who were on the point of defending Perth by force of arms, prevailed upon them to destroy the ornaments, stained glass and statuary of every church in the place, and finally to demolish the monastery. Scott writes: “The example of the reformers in Perth was followed in St Andrews and other places; and we have to regret that many beautiful buildings fell a sacrifice to the fury of the lower orders, and were either totally destroyed or reduced to piles of shapeless ruins.” After the disastrous fall of the roof in 1742 when forty-four persons were killed, the abbey was repaired without the slightest regard to architectural propriety, with unusually unfortunate results. The style is mixed, the doors being round and the windows pointed. Both on the north and south are small chapels which at first sight bear the appearance of transepts. In the south chapel, now the Shandwick burial ground, is a recumbent figure, under a handsomely carved canopy, long supposed to be that of an abbot, but afterwards ascertained to represent a lady of the clan MacKenzie, with a veil over her face. A most peculiarfeature of this abbey is the fact that these monastic ruins are simply the result of the fanatic rule of John Knox.

1200, Founded by Gilbert, Earl of Strathern and his Countess—Favoured by many grants from Alexander III.—1314, The abbot accompanies Robert Bruce at the battle of Bannockburn—1513, The abbot slain at Flodden Field.

The low ground on which this abbey stands was once surrounded by water and known asInsula Missarum, or the “island of the masses.” Now, however, it is connected with the mainland and is the property of the noble house of Kinnoul. The records show that many brave men held the office of abbot in this Augustine establishment, in fact that their spirit in some instances was of a very warlike nature. Maurice, the abbot of the period, fought with Bruce at Bannockburn with the arm of St Fillan in a silver casket, a relic to which tremendous importance was attached in those days. It is recorded that many of the dour superstitious Highlanders ascribed their sweeping victory to the presence among them of this precious relic. To the enlightenment and progress of the 19th century the final destruction of this abbey—so nearly total in its effects—is to be attributed; for when the authorities of the district deemed it advisable in 1816 to make a new road in the vicinity of the abbey, the ruined, sacred walls were ruthlessly overthrown, hardly a vestige being left beyond an arched apartment, a gable at the west end of the church, and several other fragments.

1147, Founded by David I.—1326, The meeting-place of the first Scots Parliament to which representatives from burghs were summoned—Pillaged during the wars of the Succession—c.1559, Sacked and destroyed at the Reformation—The land given to the Earl of Mar by James VI.—1709, Purchased by the town council of Stirling.

About two and a half miles from Stirling, and on the north side of the river Forth, lying in one of the many creeks formed by that winding river, is the abbey of Cambuskenneth. All that can be seen now in the green fields, with cows quietly grazing by the river sides, is a sheltered tower of grey stone, the sole remains of what was once a large ecclesiastical house. In 1864, great and important excavations were made, disclosing the foundations of the chancel, nave, transept and chapter-house, showing them to have been of a very considerable size. A few feet from the only remaining part of the abbey is the tomb of James III. and his queen, the Princess Margaret of Denmark. The tomb is railed in and bears this inscription:—

“The restoration of the tomb of her ancestors was erected by Her Majesty Queen VictoriaA.D.1865.“In this place near the high altar of the abbey of Cambuskenneth were the remains of James III., King of the Scots, who died on June 11th, 1488, and of his Queen (the Princess Margaret of Denmark).”

“The restoration of the tomb of her ancestors was erected by Her Majesty Queen VictoriaA.D.1865.

“In this place near the high altar of the abbey of Cambuskenneth were the remains of James III., King of the Scots, who died on June 11th, 1488, and of his Queen (the Princess Margaret of Denmark).”

Cambuskenneth at its zenith was an abbey of some importance in Scotland—a great many events of interest and national significance taking place there. As far as politics were concerned, the abbey was by far the most important in Scotland; indeed, so much was it used as ahouse of government that a new apartment had to be built called “Parliament Hall.” It was here that the first Scottish representative Parliament ever called together met by the order of Robert Bruce in 1324. The abbey was of the order of St Augustine, dedicated to the Virgin, and was founded by David I. in 1147 as St Mary’s of Stirling. This same king, the founder of Melrose Abbey, endowed the abbey with land and extensive property. In 1201 its name was changed to St Mary’s of Cambuskenneth, a battle having been fought on its site by King Kenneth against the Picts. In 1304, at the Feast of St Barnabas, the secret agreement took place between Robert Bruce and William Lamberton, Bishop of St Andrews, which decided the former to rise in rebellion against English power in Scotland. When the abbey was pillaged and set fire to by Richard II. in 1385, the revenues of the church would not admit of the extensive repairs necessary to restore it to its former state. About the year 1559, at the Reformation, the abbey was demolished and plundered again. The land and See of Cambuskenneth were handed over by Queen Mary to the Erskine family in the year 1562. One of the family of the Earl of Mar took stone from the abbey with which to build his house in Broad Street, thereby leaving the demolished church stripped of anything that could signify to its former pomp and influence.

A few fragments of walls, a gateway and a noble and substantial tower are all that is left of the grand old building. From the summit of the tower, which is approached by a well-preserved staircase, the imposing rock and castle of Stirling may be seen, which, in olden days, safeguarded the lives of the valley dwellers, as did the abbey of Cambuskenneth their religious interests.

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