CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.GRANADA.
CHAPTER I.GRANADA.
CHAPTER I.
GRANADA.
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Lodgings at the Alhambra.—Restoration.—Webs of Falsehood.—The Sierra Nevada Mountains.—Fruits.—Progress of the Peasantry.—The Moors.—Adam’s Visit to Spain.—Expulsion of the Moors.—Decline of the Empire.—Railroads.—Mines.—Early Settlers.—Iberians.—Phœnicians.—Goths.—Moors.—Waning of the Crescent.—Capture of Cordova.—Flight of the last Moorish King
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CHAPTER II.OUT OF FRANCE INTO SPAIN.—THE BASQUE PROVINCES.
CHAPTER II.OUT OF FRANCE INTO SPAIN.—THE BASQUE PROVINCES.
CHAPTER II.
OUT OF FRANCE INTO SPAIN.—THE BASQUE PROVINCES.
Biarritz.—Chateau Eugenie.—Dangerous Coast.—Breakwater.—The Virgin’s Partiality.—Bathing Grounds.—Couriers.—Antanazio.—His Honesty and Zeal.—Crossing the Boundary.—Island of Conference.—Spanish Courtesy.—The Basque Provinces.—Peculiar Customs.—Ancestry.—The Language.—Spanish Stupidity.—La Fayette.—St. Sebastian.—Duke of Wellington’s Sack of the City.—Bull-ring.—Likeness of the Country to Switzerland.—Physique of the Inhabitants.—Productions.—Industries.—Primogeniture.—Tolasa.—Vittoria.—Wellington’s Victory.—Miranda.—Roderick, the last King of the Goths
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CHAPTER III.BURGOS.—THE ESCORIAL.
CHAPTER III.BURGOS.—THE ESCORIAL.
CHAPTER III.
BURGOS.—THE ESCORIAL.
A sleepy Town.—Origin of the Name.—Fusion of the Crowns of Leon and Castile.—The Coffer of the Cid.—Swindling a Jew.—Moorish Lies.—Hotels.—A Change of Base.—The Cathedral.—Statues.—Carvings.—Verdict of Charles V. and Philip II.—Devil beating the Railroad.—Carving by Nicodemus.—Miracles.—Castle.—Engineer hoisted by his own Petard.—Burgos Taverns.—Philip II. His Character.—Conceptionof a Palace, Monastery, and Tomb.—The Escorial.—Dimensions.—St. Lawrence.—Turning-point of his Life.—Description of the Palace.—Death of Philip II.—Mausoleum.—The Sagrario.—Atoe-tal Loss.—Cellini Crucifix.—Library
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CHAPTER IV.MADRID.—A SABBATH AND A CARNIVAL.
CHAPTER IV.MADRID.—A SABBATH AND A CARNIVAL.
CHAPTER IV.
MADRID.—A SABBATH AND A CARNIVAL.
A polyglot Valet.—Missionary Schools.—Foreign Chaplains.—The ChurchMilitant.—Upper Chamber.—Religious Intolerance.—Inquisition.—Persecution.—Spanish Sabbath.—Devotion.—Infidelity.—The Prado.—Bull-ring.—Wine Shops.—Frolicking.—Dancing.—Cheap Wines.—Carnival.—Costumes.—Politeness.—Maskers.—Ancient Belle.—Hobbling Monk.—Pope.—Natural Goose.—Devil.—Orang-outang.—General Abandon.—Religion and Folly.—Good Humor
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CHAPTER V.MADRID.—PALACE.—BANK.—PICTURE-GALLERY.
CHAPTER V.MADRID.—PALACE.—BANK.—PICTURE-GALLERY.
CHAPTER V.
MADRID.—PALACE.—BANK.—PICTURE-GALLERY.
Napoleon’s Epigram.—Royal Palace.—Cavalry.—Military Parade.—Plains of Castile.—Armory.—Swords of Gonzalo de Cordova, Ferdinand, and Charles V.—Armor of Boabdil.—Revolvers.—Mighty Men of War.—Toledo Blade.—Stables.—Spanish Horses.—Merino Sheep.—Royal Equipage.—Crazy Jane’s Carriage.—Her Effigy.—Mischievous Display.—French Language and Influence.—Slow Coaches.—Cheap Labor.—Architecture.—Banking-house.—Bank of Spain.—Repose of Manner.—Gold at last.—Railroads.—Post-office.—Personal Identity.—Rebel General.—Lost Letters.—Telegraphs.—Progress.—Picture-gallery.—The Immaculate Conception.—Vision of St. Bernard.—Christ sinking under his Cross.—Equestrian Portrait of Charles V.—Titian.—Correggio.—Mary in the Garden.—Blas del Prado.—Hidden Gems.—Murillo.—Material and Ideal Art
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CHAPTER VI.TOLEDO.—ITS FLEAS, LANDLORDS, ANTIQUITIES, AND LUNATICS.
CHAPTER VI.TOLEDO.—ITS FLEAS, LANDLORDS, ANTIQUITIES, AND LUNATICS.
CHAPTER VI.
TOLEDO.—ITS FLEAS, LANDLORDS, ANTIQUITIES, AND LUNATICS.
Progress.—Hotel Lino.—The wicked Flea.—Easy Manners.—Breakfast.—Model Landlord and Waiters.—Toledo Butter.—Cityset on a Hill.—Monuments of departed Peoples.—Romance.—Architecture.—Oldest City in the World.—Mythic Founders.—Perfidy of Roderick.—Reign of the Archbishops.—Decline of Power and Glory.—Cathedral.—Descent of the Virgin.—A fair Penitent.—Orthodoxy of the Priesthood.—Burning of the Missals.—The Muzarabe.—The dead Lion better than a living Dog.—Eloquent Epitaph.—Honors paid the Virgin.—The Alcazar.—Derivation of Mango.—Spanish Pride.—Peacocks.—Foreign Impressions.—Moorish Gates.—San Juan de los Reyes.—Thank-offerings.—St. Florinde.—Cave of Hercules.—Legend of the Cid.—Café.—Toledo Blades.—Virtues of the Tagus.—Sword of Boabdil.—Lunatic Asylum.—Don Quixote.—Crazy Editors.—Statistics.—Causes of Insanity.—Spanish Slowness and Temperance.—Sophomores
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CHAPTER VII.LA MANCHA.—ANDALUSIA.
CHAPTER VII.LA MANCHA.—ANDALUSIA.
CHAPTER VII.
LA MANCHA.—ANDALUSIA.
Smoking.—Cigarettes at Dinner.—Taking Sanctuary.—Retort.—Tobacco Culture.—Cuban Monopoly.—Chewing tabooed.—Early Smoking.—Children and Ladies.—Tobacco Factory.—Cigareras.—Flavored Cigars.—Potash.—Soda.—Opium.—Intemperate Clergyman.—La Mancha.—Don Quixote.—Treeless Landscape.—Sheep.—Corn.—Primitive Ploughing.—Husbandry.—Primogeniture.—Lands of Church and Crown.—Agricultural Schools.—Periodicals.—Sierra Morena Mountains.—Cautious Engineer.—Manjibar.—Pickled Chicken.—Moving on.—Perfumes of Arabia.—Resting-place.—Transatlantic Indigestion.—Andalusia.—Ignorance and Crime.—Government Education.—Statistics.—Salamanca.—Influence of Climate.—Population.—The Aloe and Olive.—Oranges and Lemons.—Hills of Andalusia.—Sheep
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CHAPTER VIII.CORDOVA.
CHAPTER VIII.CORDOVA.
CHAPTER VIII.
CORDOVA.
Cleanliness.—Paved Streets.—Bridge over the Guadalquiver.—Age of the City.—Wholesale Butchery.—Government.—Mosques.—Baths.—Inns.—Schools.—Library.—Rural Fête.—Departed Glory.—Palace of Abdurhama.—Beautiful Evergreens.—Fruits.—Interior of an Ancient House.—Moorish Style.—Cathedral.—Converted Mosque.—Gate ofPardon.—Court-yard.—Orange Grove.—Fountains.—Gold Fish.—Elders in the Gate.—The Mecca of Europe.—Holy Shrine.—Symbolism.—Indulgences.—Bronze Ornaments.—Inscription in Gothic and Arabic.—Dimensions.—Precious Stones.—The Mihrab.—The Kalif’s Oratory.—Mosaics.—Devout Mussulmans.—Chapels.—Etching on Stone.—Impressive Monuments
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CHAPTER IX.SEVILLE, ITS CATHEDRAL AND BULL-FIGHTS.
CHAPTER IX.SEVILLE, ITS CATHEDRAL AND BULL-FIGHTS.
CHAPTER IX.
SEVILLE, ITS CATHEDRAL AND BULL-FIGHTS.
Delicious Climate.—Customs.—Exile of the Moors.—Consequent Decay.—The Alcazar.—Barbaric Splendor.—A Christian Kingdom.—Cathedral.—A House of God.—Giant Columns.—High Mass.—Unconscious Worshipper.—Beautiful Women.—Venus-worship.—Port of Seville.—Fruits.—Don Juan.—Barber of Seville.—Murillo’s House.—Mosaics.—Moorish Castle.—Auto-da-fé.—The Quemadaro.—Field of St. Sebastian.—Circulation of the Bible.—Tower of Gold.—Treasure House.—Prison.—Bins of Gold.—Decline and Fall of Spain.—Demoralizing Influences.—Corruption and Robbery.—Yellow Fever.—Guadalquiver.—Amphitheatre.—A Delicate Lady.—Warlike Husband.—Her Description of a Bull-fight.—The Ring.—Spectators.—Trumpet-blast.—Picadors.—Entrance of the Bull.—Charge.—Horseman.—Terrible Sight.—Chulos.—Banderilleros.—Squibs.—Matador.—Applause.—The Ladies.—Different Tastes.—Squeamish Husband
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CHAPTER X.SEVILLE.
CHAPTER X.SEVILLE.
CHAPTER X.
SEVILLE.
La Caridad.—Art Treasures.—St. John.—Miracle of the Loaves and Fishes.—Moses striking the Rock.—Recovery of Pictures at Waterloo.—French Thieves.—Venus de Medici.—Thoughtful Amateur.—Museum Fees.—Guardian Angels of Seville.—Martyrdom.—Murillo’s Pages of the Gospel.—Old Masters.—Decay of Art.—Bull-fighting.—The Season.—Exaggeration.—Curious Development.—Effect on the National Character.—Street-plays.—Feats.—Demoralization.—Spanish Pride.—Morality.—Contrast between the North and South of Europe.—Costume of Andalusia.—Fashion.—Life of the People.—Price of Labor.—Food.—Climate.—Beer.—Winecheaper than Water.—Sack.—Intemperance.—Physical Circumstances.—Social Burdens.—Beautiful Trait.—Obedience.—Veneration of the Aged
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CHAPTER XI.MALAGA.
CHAPTER XI.MALAGA.
CHAPTER XI.
MALAGA.
An ill Wind that blows no Good.—Curious Excuse for Crime.—Old World like the New.—Resort for Invalids.—Genial Clime.—Range of Thermometer.—Mineral Waters.—Sunshine.—Rainfall.—Heavenly Skies.—Advice to Consumptives.—Grapes.—Raisins.—Wine and Oil.—A Sabbath.—Service at the British Consulate.—Mrs. Partington.—English Chaplain.—Sermon.—Narrow Streets.—Sweet Memories of Cologne.—Picturesque Moors.—Cathedral.—High Mass.—Florid Architecture.—Fruits.—Prayer of a Dying Moor.—Florinde.—Chronicles of Washington Irving.—Luxuries of Travel.—Diligences.—Out of Malaga.—Obstinate Mules.—Night.—Mountains.—Setting Sun.—Lovely Scenery.—Orchards.—Armed Guards.—Gentlemen of the Road.—Loja.—Inn.—Flock of Fleas.—A Stimulant.—Setting out for Granada.—Santa Fé.—Its History.—Granada at Last.—In the Grounds of the Alhambra
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CHAPTER XII.THE ALHAMBRA.
CHAPTER XII.THE ALHAMBRA.
CHAPTER XII.
THE ALHAMBRA.
The Paradise of the West.—Rivers of Eden.—New Damascus.—Granada.—Origin of the Name.—Fruits.—Mountains.—Skies.—Moorish Empire broken.—Zawi Ibu Zeyri.—Alhambra.—Meaning of the Name.—Extension of the Castle.—Original Grandeur.—Its first Prince.—His Improvements.—Roads.—Colleges.—Hospitals.—Canals.—Arts.—Sciences.—Degeneracy.—Intrigues and Murders.—Ruin.—Final Overthrow of Moorish Power.—Ferdinand and Isabella.—Columbus.—Fleas and Cake.—Blessing and Gold.—New World in the West.—Bookstore.—Irving’s Tales.—Gate of Judgment.—Plateau.—Desolation.—Court of Myrtles.—Court of Lions.—Boabdil.—Abencerrages.—Treachery.—Hall of Ambassadors.—Bensaken.—Walking Cyclopedia.—Prudence.—Washington Irving.—Dolores.—Queen’s Garden.—Hall of Two Sisters.—Harem.—Linderaka Gardens.—Queen’s Dressing-room.—Gypsies.—Perfume Bath.—Water Bath.—Governor’s Court.—Bowed Slab.—The Morning Star
129
CHAPTER XIII.THE ALHAMBRA (continued).
CHAPTER XIII.THE ALHAMBRA (continued).
CHAPTER XIII.
THE ALHAMBRA (continued).
The poor Cobbler of Granada.—Spanish Rule of Living.—Xantippe.—Search for Gold.—Messenger Dove.—Dreams.—Landslip.—Fever cured.—Conversion.—The Watch Tower.—Magic Bell.—Parapanda Mountains.—Reign of Law.—Gift to the Duke of Wellington.—Bloody Pass.—Vega.—Water Gates.—The Last Sigh of the Moor.—His Mother’s Reproof.—Moorish Race.—Political Prisoners.—Birthplace of Eugenie.—The Generaliffe.—Ancient Tree.—Suspected Queen.—Women of Spain.—Sins of Climate
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CHAPTER XIV.GRANADA.
CHAPTER XIV.GRANADA.
CHAPTER XIV.
GRANADA.
Troubadour and Gypsy Life.—Dwarf.—Horse.—Fair.—Physique of the gitanos.—Habits.—Habitations.—Moral Principle.—Chastity.—Swindling.—Superstition.—Fortune-tellers.—Credulity.—Trickery.—Parisian Spiritualist.—Gypsy Creed.—Musings.—Causes of Astonishment.—Paintings and Cathedrals.—Unworthy Ambition.—Silence in Church.—Cathedral of Granada.—Chapel Royal.—Tomb of Ferdinand and Isabella.—Tomb of Philip and Crazy Jane.—Obliging Priest.—Fees.—Leaving Granada.—Disguised Thief.—Seizure and Imprisonment.—Out of Granada
155
CHAPTER XV.GENEVA.—FREYBURG.—BERNE.
CHAPTER XV.GENEVA.—FREYBURG.—BERNE.
CHAPTER XV.
GENEVA.—FREYBURG.—BERNE.
Geneva.—Color of the Rhone.—Cæsar’s Wall.—Cathedral.—Calvin.—Lady Jane Grey.—Rousseau.—Voltaire.—Madame de Stael.—Byron.—Jura.—Mont Blanc.—Celebrities.—Coppet.—Ninon.—St. Protais.—Lisus.—Morges.—Grand Muveran.—Diablerets.—Mont Rosa.—Mont Blanc.—Lausanne.—St. Anne.—Sacred Rat.—Cathedral.—Convention of Reformers.—Gibbon.—Classic Ground.—Chillon.—Bonnivard.—Torture Chamber.—Hotel Byron.—Railroad.—Ice.—Swiss Valleys.—Freyburg.—Suspension Bridge.—Great Organ.—Cathedral.—Wonderful Music: its Power and Sweetness.—Berne.—Morat.—Burgundian Custom.—Public Bears.—Unfortunate Englishman.—Curious Clock.—Market Women.—Federal Palace.—Swiss Cantons.—Bernese Alps.—Thun.—Jungfrau
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CHAPTER XVI.THE BRUNIG PASS.—LUCERNE.
CHAPTER XVI.THE BRUNIG PASS.—LUCERNE.
CHAPTER XVI.
THE BRUNIG PASS.—LUCERNE.
Pleasant Ride.—Interlaken.—Lakes Thun and Brienz.—Abendberg.—Faulhorn.—Giesback.—Illumination.—Ascent of the Brunig.—Vale of Meyringen.—Falls of Reichenbach.—Lungern.—Splendid Courage.—Cheap Suffering.—Modern Reformers.—Mount Pilatus.—Myths.—Lucerne.—Population.—St. Leger.—Service.—Crucifix.—A Devotee.—Mass.—Organ.—Cloisters.—Lake Lucerne.—Lion of Lucerne.—Dance of Death.—Striking Scenery.—Gersau.—Brunnen.—Bay of Uri.—Sir James Mackintosh.—Swiss Patriots.—Chapel of Tell.—Cascades.—Fluellen.—Altorf.—Captain Lott
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CHAPTER XVII.THE BLACK VIRGIN OF EINSIEDELN.—LIFE IN SWITZERLAND, ETC.
CHAPTER XVII.THE BLACK VIRGIN OF EINSIEDELN.—LIFE IN SWITZERLAND, ETC.
CHAPTER XVII.
THE BLACK VIRGIN OF EINSIEDELN.—LIFE IN SWITZERLAND, ETC.
The Hermit Meinrad.—His Black Virgin.—Murder.—Detective Ravens.—Monastery.—Miracle.—Shrine.—Pilgrims.—Revenue.—A Barefooted Penitent.—Village Church.—Fountain.—Gallery.—Abbot.—Hospitality.—Library.—College.—Monastic Life.—Adieu.—Pleasant Quarters.—Meals.—Hotel Life.—John Bull.—A Charming Couple.—Americans.—A National Feature.—Slang.—Language.—Manners.—An Elegant Lady.—Selfishness.—French and Swiss Railroads.—Improvements.—Accidents.—Accommodations
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CHAPTER XVIII.CANTON APPENZELL.—SWISS CUSTOMS.
CHAPTER XVIII.CANTON APPENZELL.—SWISS CUSTOMS.
CHAPTER XVIII.
CANTON APPENZELL.—SWISS CUSTOMS.
Trogen.—Convent.—Memento mori.—Scenery.—Religion.—German Service.—Curious Custom.—Constance.—Martyrs.—Dividing Line.—Remarkable Change.—Cause.—Pillory.—Evening Bell.—Watchman’s Song.—Bridal Custom.—Athletic Sports.—Democracy.—Assembly.—Office Seekers.—Council.—Roads.—Taxation.—Schools.—Foreign Pupils.—Pedestrians.—Moral Culture.—Treatment of Women.—Cows.—Farm Work.—Manufactures.—Mechanics.—God’s Acre.—Graves.—Funeral Ceremonies.—Simplicity.—Lonely Burial.—Unpleasing Custom.—Costumes.—The Upper Classes.—Refinement and Culture.—Manners.—Patriotism.—A Challenge
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CHAPTER XIX.GERMAN WATERING-PLACES.—BINGEN ON THE RHINE.
CHAPTER XIX.GERMAN WATERING-PLACES.—BINGEN ON THE RHINE.
CHAPTER XIX.
GERMAN WATERING-PLACES.—BINGEN ON THE RHINE.
A German Watering-place.—Land of Salt.—Salt Works.—Last of the Barons.—Homburg.—Kursaal.—Palace.—Gaming.—Kreusnach.—Spas.—Salt Springs.—Cure-house.—Kissingen.—Baths.—Cures.—Long Sledge-ride.—Princess of Mecklenburg.—Clerical Postman.—Whey-cure.—Grape-cure.—Rest.—Rheingraffenstein.—Ebernburg.—Relics of Reformers.—French Cannon Balls.—The Bingen of Poetry.—The Real Bingen.—Bishop Hatto’s Tower.—Maüse-thurme.—Southey.—Ehrenfels.—Rudesheimer Vineyards.—Wine-making.—Shallow Soil.—Johannisberg Vineyard.—The Rhine.—Mayence.—Printing.—Guttenberg’s Statue.—Cathedral
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CHAPTER XX.PILGRIMAGE TO AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.
CHAPTER XX.PILGRIMAGE TO AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.
CHAPTER XX.
PILGRIMAGE TO AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.
Tomb of Charlemagne.—The Dead Emperor.—Cathedral.—Consecration.—Holy Shrine.—Healing Waters.—Palace.—Holy Relics.—Remarkable List.—Septennial Exhibition.—Sultan of Turkey.—Crowd.—Order and Devotion.—Sultan and Suite.—Stolidity.—Priests and Women.—A Crush.—Pageant opened.—Procession.—The Relics.—Puseyite Priest.—On the Road to Rome.—Superstition.—Pictures.—Virgin’s Garment.—Modern Style.—Holy Shirt.—Other Relics.—Pilgrims.—Revenue.—Waters.—Fountain.—Music.—Invalids.—Kurhaus.—Social Ease.—Baths.—Sulphur Water.—Antiquities.—Tower of Granus.—Statue of Charlemagne.—Bust and Skull
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CHAPTER XXI.FRANKFORT.
CHAPTER XXI.FRANKFORT.
CHAPTER XXI.
FRANKFORT.
Graveyard.—Childish Plays.—Cheerful Graves.—Grave of Goethe’s Mother.—Inscription.—Lovely Sentiment.—Coffin of Goethe.—Wealthy Jew.—Humiliation.—Ancient Glory.—Ariadne.—Elegant Cars.—Smokers.—Pine Forests.—Women’s Rights.—Beer Drinking.—A Good Arrangement.—Frankfort-on-the-Oder.—Krewz.—Dinner.—Gardens.—Scenery.—Nakal.—Bromberg.—Wedges.—Attentive Servant.—Frontier.—Passports.—The Vistula.—Poland.—Warsaw
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CHAPTER XXII.WARSAW.
CHAPTER XXII.WARSAW.
CHAPTER XXII.
WARSAW.
Historic Legend.—The Jesuits.—Partition.—Last Insurrection.—Nationality crushed out.—Attempted Insurrection.—Defeat.—Warsaw.—Armed Despotism.—Discontent.—Precarious Prosperity.—Russian Rule and Language.—Fate of a Spy.—Consequence.—Russian Soldiery.—Ill-manners.—Botanical Gardens.—Observatory.—Palace.—Sobieski’s Monument.—Grave Error.—Illumination.—Streets.—Drunkenness.—Climate.—Lutheran Church.—Relics of Romanism.—Mendicants.—Jewish Quarter.—Hospital.—War of Religions.—Statue of the Virgin.—Little Russia.—Funeral.—English Cock
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CHAPTER XXIII.FROM WARSAW TO ST. PETERSBURG.
CHAPTER XXIII.FROM WARSAW TO ST. PETERSBURG.
CHAPTER XXIII.
FROM WARSAW TO ST. PETERSBURG.
Pretentious Hotel.—Splendid Bridge.—Polite Ticket-seller.—Cars.—Prairie.—Wretched Peasantry.—Jews.—Railroad Employes.—Lapy.—Mother and Son.—Bialystok.—Grodno.—Diet of Poland.—Last King of Poland.—Jewish Holiday.—Lithuania.—Plains.—Napoleon’s Hill.—Monument.—Wilna.—Ruins.—Insurrection.—Babel.—Dunaberg.—Captive.—Short Night.—Serfs.—Reform.—Board of Arbitrators.—Emancipation.—Pskof.—Lady Smoker.—St. Petersburg
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CHAPTER XXIV.ST. PETERSBURG.
CHAPTER XXIV.ST. PETERSBURG.
CHAPTER XXIV.
ST. PETERSBURG.
Searching Process.—Peculiar Costumes.—Rough Streets.—Russian Bath.—Dinner.—Model Guide.—Elegant Diction.—Peter the Great.—Catharine I.—Striking Contrasts.—Accommodating Weather.—Palace of the Emperor.—Column of Alexander.—Statue of Peter the Great.—Boy Czars.—Peter’s Lawyers.—Devotion.—Cathedral.—Trophies.—Isaac’s Cathedral.—Amazing Splendor.—Worship.—Offerings.—Holy of Holies.—Behind the Scenes.—Careful Husbands.—Greek and Romish Churches.—Lent.—Sabbath.—Exorcism.—Honors paid the Virgin
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CHAPTER XXV.RUSSIAN ART, CUSTOMS, AND MANNERS.
CHAPTER XXV.RUSSIAN ART, CUSTOMS, AND MANNERS.
CHAPTER XXV.
RUSSIAN ART, CUSTOMS, AND MANNERS.
Winter Palace.—Ways of Royalty.—Crown Jewels.—Orloff Diamond.—Hermitage.—Art Galleries.—Curious Code of Laws.—Royal Museum.—Peter’s Walking-stick.—Art Culture.—Condition of the Masses.—Laborers.—Mechanics.—Prices.—Rent.—Food.—Dress.—Peculiar Custom.—Polite Bankers.—Despot.—Justice.—Verdicts.—Story of Labanoff.—Siberia.—Abuses.—Academy of Science.—Zoological Museum.—Sunset on the Neva.—Boatman.—Light at Evening-tide
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CHAPTER XXVI.FROM ST. PETERSBURG TO MOSCOW.
CHAPTER XXVI.FROM ST. PETERSBURG TO MOSCOW.
CHAPTER XXVI.
FROM ST. PETERSBURG TO MOSCOW.
American Engineers.—Sleeping Arrangements.—Newspapers.—Drama.—Courtesy.—Lubanskaia.—Dinner.—Villages.—The Volga.—Murdered Bishop.—Sleeping Car.—Ladder.—Russian Jargon.—Pathetic Appeal.—Board.—Refreshments.—Greek Ecclesiastic.—Patriarch Nicon.—New Jerusalem.—Profanity.—Tyranny.—Revolt.—Pope of the North.—Emperor’s Slight.—Nicon’s Humility.—Banishment.—Patriarchates.—Dead Level.—Flight of Freedom
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CHAPTER XXVII.THE KREMLIN AND THE BELLS OF MOSCOW.
CHAPTER XXVII.THE KREMLIN AND THE BELLS OF MOSCOW.
CHAPTER XXVII.
THE KREMLIN AND THE BELLS OF MOSCOW.
A Swiss Landlord.—Fleas.—Shrines.—Palaces, Cottages, and Churches.—The Moskva.—Circular City.—Kremlin Walls.—Gates.—Chief Entrance.—Picture of the Redeemer.—Respect.—Cannon.—Miracle.—Splendid Scene.—Tower of Ivan.—Bells.—Medium of Worship.—Holy City.—Pilgrims.—Bell-making.—Precious Metals.—Silver Bells.—Chapel of the Betrothed.—Music of the Bells
330
CHAPTER XXVIII.THE CHURCHES OF MOSCOW.
CHAPTER XXVIII.THE CHURCHES OF MOSCOW.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
THE CHURCHES OF MOSCOW.
Cathedral of the Assumption.—Bones of the Patriarchs.—The Iconastasis.—Sanctuary.—Archbishop’s Throne.—Coronation Ceremony.—Tombs.—Cathedral of the ArchangelMichael.—Religious Freedom.—Churches.—Cathedral of St. Basil.—Archangel Cathedral.—Pilgrims.—Golgotha.—Sacristy.—Religion.—Holy Oil.—Baptism.—Making of the Holy Chrism
340
CHAPTER XXIX.PALACE AND INSTITUTIONS OF MOSCOW.
CHAPTER XXIX.PALACE AND INSTITUTIONS OF MOSCOW.
CHAPTER XXIX.
PALACE AND INSTITUTIONS OF MOSCOW.
Royal Palace.—Empress’s Drawing-room.—Empress’s Cabinet.—Hall of St. George.—Hall of St. Andrew.—Gold Court.—Napoleon’s Descent.—Treasures.—Historical Curiosities.—Precious Orb.—Foundling Hospital.—Mortality of Foundlings.—Orphan Asylum.—Sheep’s Clothing.—Harvest Season.—Jews.—Peasants.—Riding School.—Wax-show.—Ethnological Society.—Travel.—Sydney Smith’s Stick
350
CHAPTER XXX.FROM MOSCOW TO ST. PETERSBURG.
CHAPTER XXX.FROM MOSCOW TO ST. PETERSBURG.
CHAPTER XXX.
FROM MOSCOW TO ST. PETERSBURG.
Commercial Travellers.—Sparrow Hills.—Church of the Saviour.—Simonoff Monastery.—Novo-Devichi Convent.—The Moskva.—A Holiday.—Napoleon’s March.—Borodino.—Evacuation of Moscow.—French Enthusiasm.—Triumphal Entry.—Surprise.—Incendiarism.—Return of the French.—Horrors of the March.—Russian Barbarism.—Public Kissing.—From Moscow to St. Petersburg.—Fussy Ladies.—Klin.—Dinner.—Tver.—Beggars.—Night without Darkness.—The Fussy Ladies again.—Sunrise.—Marriage Customs
359
CHAPTER XXXI.FINLAND.
CHAPTER XXXI.FINLAND.
CHAPTER XXXI.
FINLAND.
Americans.—Cronstadt.—Fortifications.—Vessels.—Smoking.—Wyborg.—Saw-mills.—Channel.—Ruined Tower.—Submission of Finland.—Religion.—Government.—Harvests.—Famines.—Army.—Wages.—Fens.—Lakes and Islands.—Drosky.—Huge Stones.—Excursion.—Eden in the North.—Serpent in the Garden.—Long Bills.—Attentions paid Strangers.—A Finnish Lady.—Fishermen.—A Killing Man.—Gulf of Finland.—Fredericksham.—Sclava.—Hard Case.—Social Customs
371
CHAPTER XXXII.Finland (continued).
CHAPTER XXXII.Finland (continued).
CHAPTER XXXII.
Finland (continued).
Helsingfors.—Sweaborg.—Fortified Islands.—Society House.—Ducal Palace.—Finnish Gentlemen.—Senate House.—University.—Observatory.—Library.—Literature.—Kalewala.—Schiller and Shakespeare.—Language.—Congress.—Coats of Arms.—Botanical Garden.—House of Refreshment.—Health Establishment.—Mineral Fountain.—Rocky Islands.—Fishing.—Peasantry.—Abo.—Hotel.—Good Manners.—Castle.—Cathedral.—Tombs.—Conflagration.—Carriole.—Kibitka.—Bondkara.—Finns
383
CHAPTER XXXIII.SWEDEN.
CHAPTER XXXIII.SWEDEN.
CHAPTER XXXIII.
SWEDEN.
Harbor of Abo.—Swedish Customs.—Eating and Drinking.—Climate.—The Baltic.—Stockholm.—Porters.—Hotel Rydburg.—Pleasant Quarters.—Scandinavia.—Odin.—Sagas.—Christianity.—Lutheran Religion.—King.—Congress.—Hospital.—Physicians.—Clergymen.—Education.—Religious Toleration.—The Press.—Cost of Living.—Vice.—The Riddarholm’s Kyrkan.—Tomb of Gustavus Adolphus.—Reformation.—Royal Palace.—Picture Gallery.—Library.—Codex Aureus.—King of Sweden.—Mimic War.—Standing Army.—Order.—Thieves
394
CHAPTER XXXIV.Sweden (continued).
CHAPTER XXXIV.Sweden (continued).
CHAPTER XXXIV.
Sweden (continued).
Drottningholm.—Lake Malar.—Sigtuna.—Odin.—Superstition.—Pirates.—Rural Life.—Professor Olivecrona.—Islands.—Chateau.—Commercial Life.—Manuscripts.—University of Upsala.—Codex Argenteus.—Icelandic Literature.—Standard of Education.—Students.—Costume.—Cathedral.—Statue of Thor.—Old Upsala.—Mora Stone.—Mass Meetings.—Graves of Pagan Deities.—Temple of Odin.—Ancient Tower.—Battle-field of Faith.—Deer Park Restaurant.—Social Customs.—Swedish Homes.—Content.—Moral Progress
409
CHAPTER XXXV.Sweden (continued).
CHAPTER XXXV.Sweden (continued).
CHAPTER XXXV.
Sweden (continued).
Steam Canal.—The Oscar.—View of Stockholm.—Sodertelje.—St. Olaf.—The Gota Canal.—Castles and Legends.—Soderkoping.—TavernBreakfast.—Sabbath in Sweden.—Church.—Costumes.—Service.—Snuffing and Nasal Singing.—Watering-place.—Physician.—College of Health.—Baths.—Mineral Waters.—Emigration.—Lodging and Board
423
CHAPTER XXXVI.Sweden (continued).
CHAPTER XXXVI.Sweden (continued).
CHAPTER XXXVI.
Sweden (continued).
On the Gota Canal again.—Working-girl.—Lake Asplagen.—Swedish Professor.—Lake Roxen.—Berg.—The Vetra-Kloster.—Graveyard.—Tombs of the Douglases.—School-house.—Dinner on the Canal.—Crops.—Lock-keeper.—Lake Boren.—Motala.—Iron-works.—Lake Wetter.—Wadstena.—Pea-crop.—Peasantry.—Labor.—Cold.—Sunset.—Forsvik.—Russian Gentleman.—Lake Wenner.—Trout.—Falls of Trollhatten.—River.—Unfortunate Sailor.—Collection.—Hongfel Castle.—Gottenburg.—Cheap Lodgings.—Museum.—Daily News.—Training House for Servants.—Philanthropy
433
CHAPTER XXXVII.NORWAY.
CHAPTER XXXVII.NORWAY.
CHAPTER XXXVII.
NORWAY.
Embarkation.—Breakfast.—Skager-rack and Cattegat.—Freidericksvern.—Christiania.—Hotel du Nord.—Flowers and Fountains.—Stove.—Norwegian Breakfast.—Museum.—Superstition.—Duel of the Girdle.—Bridal Ornaments.—Heathen Relics.—Learning and Letters.—Lake Mjosen.—English Commercial Traveller.—Boat Library.—Sportsmen.—Church.—Fat Pastor.—Remnants of Popery.—Costumes.—The Lord’s Supper.—Service.—Devotion and Reverence.—Oneness of the Church.—Lillehammer.—Cheap Living.—Cripple.—Christiania.—Carriole.—Post Horses and Boys.—Agershaus.—Robin Hood of Norway.—Benevolent Institutions.—Grave of Bradshaw
447
CHAPTER XXXVIII.DENMARK.
CHAPTER XXXVIII.DENMARK.
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
DENMARK.
Skager-rack and Cattegat.—Magnificent Sunset.—Elsinore.—Toll.—House of Tycho Brahe.—Kronborg.—Treaty of Vienna.—Danish Giant.—Fortifications.—Hamlet’s Grave.—TrueHistory.—Royal Castle.—Queen of Christian II.—Touching Prayer.—Royal Forest.—Castle of Peace.—Denmark.—Her History.—Valdemar II.—Schleswig-Holstein.—Christianity.—General Intelligence.—Education.—Copenhagen.—Thorvaldsen’s Museum.—Statues.—Vanity.—Hall of Christ.—Gems and Bronzes.—Vor Frue Kirke.—Religion and Art.—Church Service.—Baptism.—Love of Amusement.—Theatres.—Public Gardens.—Museum.—Ruins.—Monuments.—South American Gentleman.—Zealand.—Fleas.—Kiel.—Elmshorn.—Home Again
462
SPAIN.
SPAIN.
SPAIN.