General Questions
ANSWERED BYDR. C. C. MILLER,Marengo, Ill.
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In this department will be answered those questions needingIMMEDIATEattention, and such as are not of sufficient special interest to require replies from the 20 or more apiarists who help to make "Queries and Replies" so interesting on another page. In the main, it will contain questions and answers upon matters that particularly interest beginners.—Ed.
In this department will be answered those questions needingIMMEDIATEattention, and such as are not of sufficient special interest to require replies from the 20 or more apiarists who help to make "Queries and Replies" so interesting on another page. In the main, it will contain questions and answers upon matters that particularly interest beginners.—Ed.
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Feeding Bees in the Cellar.
What is the best way to feed bees when wintering in the cellar? I started in 1891 with three colonies, but have had bad luck the last two winters. I have 13 colonies at the present time—9 outdoors, and 4 in the cellar.
M. W.
Sterling, Ill.
Answer.—There is nothing better than to give them frames filled with honey. Carefully remove two or three of the empty combs till you strike the brood-nest—that is, till you come to a comb with bees on—then put in a comb of honey. Be sure that there are bees enough on the comb next to the honey so that there will be no doubt about their commencing on the honey right away, for there might be such a thing as their starving without ever touching it, unless it were pushed right under their little noses. If the first frame in the brood-nest has too few bees, it may be best to put the honey between this and the next comb with bees on. If the temperature of your cellar varies, don't take the time when it is coldest.
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Bees Dying in the Cellar.
As I have always had bad luck in wintering bees out-of-doors, I thought I would winter them in the cellar this winter, so I have followed theAmerican Bee Journalalong, and studied closely all that has appeared in it about wintering bees in the cellar. I finally settled upon the way of one writer's plan, thinking it perhaps a good way; that is, to raise the hive from the bottom-board about an inch, by putting blocks underthe corners. I believe he said that the bees would not come out if kept in the dark—that I have done, and I find every time I go to them, that the ground is covered with dead bees, and at this rate I think there will not be any left by spring. Why do my bees come out, if others do not?
My crop of honey last season was none, as usual, and I have had to feed to carry the bees through the winter.
E. H. H.
St. Johnsbury Center, Vt.
Answer.—Whatever may be the cause of your bees dying, you may rely on it that it is not likely to be caused by the raising of the hive as you have done. You can keep the bees from troubling the cellar-bottom by letting the hive down and shutting the bees in with wire cloth, for in that case the bees cannot get out, but they'll die just as fast as ever and perhaps a little faster, for if bees find they are fastened in, they are all the more eager to get out.
There must be something wrong with the bees or the cellar, and knowing nothing about it but that the hive is raised and the bees are dying, it is hard to make any kind of a guess as to the cause of the trouble. If the hive is spotted and daubed about the entrance, then diarrhea is at work. This may come from the quality of the food, or it may come from the condition of the cellar; 45° seems to be the degree of temperature that most agree upon as desirable, and if your cellar is much above 50° it is probably too warm. If below 40°, I would try heating it up, to see what the effect would be. Anything that quiets the bees down may be considered a move in the right direction, for undoubtedly bees that are coming out and dying in large numbers are not quiet.
It may be that the air of the cellar is bad—too close, or poisoned with decaying vegetables—but there isn't much use in going on guessing. The most that can be said is to try to have pure air at about 45°, and see whether the trouble continues.
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Increasing an Apiary—Sweet Clover.
1. I have 12 colonies of bees, and I want to increase them. Would I better keep the bees confined to the brood-chamber till they swarm, or would it be best to give them access to one section-case? Or would I better increase by dividing?
2. Where can I get sweet clover seed, that Mr. Newman recommends so highly for bee-pasturage?
J. S.
Long, W. Va.
Answers.—1. If you are anxious for increase and care little for honey, you will do well to put on no supers. Or, you might let part of them have one super each. You may find, however, that it will not make much difference.
If you have had no experience in that line, perhaps it will be best not to meddle much with dividing colonies, but let the bees swarm at their own sweet will; still, it will be good practice for you to make a few colonies by dividing. In any case, be sure to get some good text-book and study up thoroughly, then you will have a more intelligent idea of the whole business. Any points that are not clearly understood will be cheerfully explained in this department, unless you ask too hard questions.
2. Melilot, or sweet clover, seed can be had at any large seed-store. Many of the supply dealers who advertise in theBee Journalhave it for sale.
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Carrying Out Dead Brood.
I have a case of dead brood on my hands, which I do not understand. The bees are in a 10-frame hive that I bought of a neighbor last June. At this time they have a hive full of honey and young bees; they are carrying out young brood that is just ready to cap over. It does not appear to be foul brood, and I do not know what to call it. Any information on the subject would be appreciated.
M. F. B.
Indianapolis, Ind.
Answer.—It is possible that worms are at work, and the brood is thrown out where they have gnawed away the cappings or some part of the cells. Possibly a cold spell may have made the cluster contract so much as to leave the brood unprotected, when the brood was chilled and afterward thrown out.
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Capons and Caponizing, by Edward Warren Sawyer, M. D., Fanny Field, and others. It shows in clear language and illustrations all about caponizing fowls; and thus how to make the most money in poultry-raising. Every poultry-keeper should have it. Price, postpaid, 30 cents; or clubbed withBee Journalone year, for $1.10.