A Keel-boat Voyage—Description of the Preparations.—Face of the Country.—Troy.—Lady Washington.—The River Sport.—Owensborough.—Henderson.
The Ohio still continuing low, and there being no prospect of proceeding to New Orleans by a steam boat, I resolved to embark on board a keel boat, in company with several ladies and gentlemen, who were returning to their plantations and their homes. The preparations in such a case, are to dispose of horse and gig, where one does not choose going by land through Nashville, and Natchez. There is not much pleasure to be derived from a passage on board a keel boat—a machine, fifty feet long and ten feet broad, shut up on every side; with two doors,two and a half feet high. It forms a species of wooden prison, containing commonly four rooms; the first for the steward, the second a dining room, the third a cabin for gentlemen, and the fourth a ladies’ cabin. Each of these cabins was provided with an iron stove, one of which some days afterwards was very near sending us all to heaven, in the manner which the most Catholic king has been pleased to adopt in regard to us heretics. On the sides were our births, in double rows, six feet in length and two broad. In former times this manner of travelling was generally resorted to on the Ohio and Mississippi; the application of steam, however, has superseded these primitive conveyances, and I hope to the regret of no one. Our passage to Trinity, 515 miles by water, including provisions, &c., was twenty-five dollars. We were sure of meeting there with steam boats. The company consisted of two ladies with their families, returning to Louisiana; two others were going to Yellow-banks, with several governesses, nieces, &c.; in all ten ladies, with eleven gentlemen, considered a happy omen. Amongst the men were three planters from Louisiana and Mississippi; three merchants,one a Yankee, the other a Kentuckian, the third a Frenchman; a lawyer, from Tennessee; two physicians, one from the same state, the other from Kentucky, with a Kentuckian six and a half feet high. Of these persons the Kentuckian doctor was the most to be pitied. He was in the last stage of a pulmonary affection, and expected relief from the mild climate of Louisiana; but much as we did to alleviate the fate of this man, whose perpetual cough was as insufferable to us, as the constant fire he kept up in the stove, and which at last communicated to our boat, the poor fellow died three days after his arrival at New Orleans. Four individuals of less note joined the company, consisting of three slave-drivers, and a Yankee who travelled to make his fortune. We resigned ourselves to our lot, with as good a grace as we could, the Frenchman excepted, who found fault with every thing but the dinner, when he handled his knife and fork with uncommon activity. A captain, a mate, and a steward, composed the officers, twelve oarmen formed the crew, and forty slaves, who were to be transported to the states of Mississippi and Louisiana, were a sort ofdeck passengers, so that the whole cargo, inside and out, amounted to ninety persons. As long as the weather continued fine, the poor negroes had a tolerable lot, but when afterwards it began to rain, and they continued on a deck seven and a half feet broad, and forty-two long, without any covering over their heads, or being able to move, our kitchen being likewise upon deck, their situation became truly distressing, and one of the infants died shortly afterwards; another, as I was informed, fell into the Mississippi above Palmyra settlements.
We took our meals in three divisions; the first consisting of the ladies and five gentlemen, who were helped by the other six gentlemen; afterwards the six remaining sat down with the three drivers, and the Yankee; the latter personages were, however, excused from helping the ladies. After them came the captain, with his boatmen. Our dinner was very good, because we took the precaution of making it part of our agreement that we should purchase such provisions as we thought proper. Our breakfast at the hour of eight, consisted of pigeons, ducks, sometimes opossum, roastbeef, chickens, pork cakes, coffee and tea. Our dinner at three o’clock, in the same manner, with the addition of a haunch of venison or a turkey. Our supper at six, was the same as our breakfast. To fill up the intervals, we took at eleven a lunch, consisting of adoddy; at nine at night we had a tea party given by the ladies, and the said ten gentlemen alternately. We started the 7th of November, at four o’clock in the afternoon, instead of nine in the morning. The cause of this delay was the alteration which had to be made in the births; for it appeared that two of the Kentuckians were considerably longer than the space allotted to them. They were therefore to be made morelengthyat the expense of the dining rooms. When every thing was ready we started, heartily tired of this delay. We had taken the precaution to provide ourselves with powder and shot, in order to make shooting excursions, having a skiff along side the boat. The landscape on both banks of the Ohio was still hilly, the shores varying from bottom lands to moderate hills, thus forming a boundary line between the interior of Kentucky which lay to our left, and Indiana and the river landson our right. The cotton tree is almost the only one here, with the exception of beeches and sycamores. The first do not quite attain the height of the sycamore, but still they are seldom less than 140 feet high. The forests assume a more southern character; the shrub-grass, thistles and thorns, are stronger, and the vines of an astonishing size. At several places we were unable to land from the thickness of the natural hedges which lined the banks, presenting an impenetrable barrier. Pigeons now appeared in flocks of thousands and tens of thousands. On the morning of the following day we shot seventy-five, and in the afternoon seventy, without any difficulty.
Troy, the seat of justice for Crawford county, in Indiana, was the first place we visited. It has a court-house, a printing-office, and about sixty houses. The inhabitants seem rather indolent. On our asking for apples, they demanded ten dollars for half a barrel; the price for a whole one in Louisville being no more than three dollars. We advised them to keep their apples, and to plant trees, which would enable them toraise some for themselves; and to put panes of glass in their windows, instead of old newspapers. The surrounding country is beautiful and fertile. Farms, however, become more scarce, and are in a state of more primitive simplicity. A block cabin not unlike a stable, with as many holes as there are logs in it, patches of ground planted with tobacco, sweet potatoes, and some corn, are the sole ornaments of these back-wood mansions. We purchased, below Troy, half a young bear, at the rate of five cents per pound. Two others which were skinned, indicated an abundance of these animals, and more application to the sport than seems compatible with the proper cultivation of these regions. The settlers have something of a savage appearance: their features are hard, and the tone of their voice denotes a violent disposition. Our Frenchman was bargaining for a turkey, with the farmer’s son, an athletic youth. On being asked three dollars for it, the Frenchman turned round to Mr. B., saying: “I suppose the Kentuckians take us for fools.” “What do you say, stranger,” replied the youth, at the same time laying his heavy hand across the shoulders of the poor Frenchman, in rather a rough manner.The latter looked as if thunderstruck, and retired in the true style of the Great Nation, when they get a sound drubbing. We remarked on his return, the pains he took to repress his feelings at the coarseness of the Kentuckians. He was, however, discreet enough to keep his peace, and he did very well; but his spirit was gone, and he never afterwards undertook to make a bargain, except with old women, for a pot of milk, or a dozen of eggs, &c.
Below Lady Washington, or Hanging Rock, as it is called,—a bare perpendicular rock a hundred feet above the water on the right side of the river, the mountains, or rather hills, cease by degrees, and are succeeded by a vast plain on both sides the high banks of the Ohio. We had here the enjoyment of some sport on the water: a deer was crossing the river, contracted in this place to about a thousand feet, when it was discovered by three Kentuckians, who were going to do the same. Our boat was about half a mile above the spot when we discovered the game. Four of us leaped into the skiff in order to intercept it. The deer continued its course towards theIndiana side, and it was easy for us to intercept its path. As soon as we were near enough, we aimed a blow at it with our oars, having in the hurry forgotten our guns. The deer then took the direction of the boat—we followed—the Kentuckians approached from the other side: full thirty minutes elapsed before these could come up with the animal and give it a blow. Though its strength was on the decline, it did not relax its efforts, but advanced again towards us without our being able to reach it. A second blow on the part of the Kentuckians, who were more expert in handling their oars, seemed to stun the noble animal; yet, summoning up its remaining strength, it went up the stream on the Kentucky side, and reached the shore, but so exhausted by long swimming and the two blows from the powerful Kentuckians, that on landing it staggered and fell, without being able to ascend the high bank. Instantly one of the Kentuckians rushed upon it, cutting asunder its knee joints. The deer, taking a sudden turn, made a plunge at the Kentuckian, tearing away part of his trowsers, and lacerating his leg. So sudden was the last effort of this animal, that but for the speedy arrival of hiscompanion, who had been assisting the third Kentuckian in drawing the skiff closer to the shore, it would infallibly have ripped up its aggressor’s bowels. The dirk of the second Kentuckian endedthe sport, which had terminated in a rather serious way. By this time we had also reached the field of battle. “What do you want, gentlemen?” said the wounded Kentuckian, accosting us with his poniard in his hand. “Part of the deer, which you know you could not have got without our assistance?” They first looked at our party of four, then at our boat, which was already at the distance of a mile and a half from us. The wounded man seating himself, asked again, “What part do you choose?” “Half the deer, with the bowels, and tongue for our ladies.” “Have you ladies on board your vessel?” “Yes, sir.” Without uttering a word more, they skinned the venison, cleaned, and divided it. We stepped aside meanwhile, collected a couple of dollars, and offered them to the wounded man. He took the money, thanked us, and the other two carried the venison to our boat. We parted after cordially shaking hands. There was now an abundance of pigeons, venison, and bear’s fleshon board our boat; the latter, when young, is delicious, having a very fine flavour, with rather a sweet and luscious taste. We were all partial to it except the Frenchman, who most likely took us for a species of these animals. But as thoughts are free, even in the most despotic countries, he had the privilege of thinking, without daring to utter a syllable—assuredly the severest punishment upon one of the Great Nation. On the third day we lost part of our company, as two of the ladies landed on the Yellow-banks, so called from the yellow colour of the shores, which formerly gave the name to the county town of Davies county, now Owensborough. It contains eighty buildings, including a court-house, a newspaper printing office, and three stores. The distance hence to Louisville, is 170 miles. From this village, down to the mouth of the Green river, wild vines grow very luxuriantly, forming a continued series of hedges. The grapes are used for wine, which is of a hard taste, but not a bad flavour; if properly attended to they would certainly yield an excellent produce. We gathered in a few minutes abundance of grapes, and found them juicy andvery good. Near the mouth of the Green river, and up its banks, are several ponds of bitumen, a material which is used by the inhabitants for lamp oil. The country abounds in saltpetre, and saltlicks. On the same side, sixty miles below Owensborough, is laid out Henderson, the seat of justice for the county of the same name. It contains 500 inhabitants, 90 dwellings, and a courthouse. Some of the houses are in tolerable order, but the greatest part in a shattered condition, and the town has a dirty appearance. The Ohio forms a bend between Owensborough and Henderson, thus making the distance by water sixty miles, which by land-travelling would not exceed twenty. A species of the mistletoe here makes its appearance for the first time. The trees are covered with bunches of this plant, its foliage is yellow, the berries milk white, and so viscous as to serve for bird lime; when falling they adhere to the branches, and strike root in the bark of the trees.
In the morning of the sixth day we arrived at Miller’s Ferry, twenty miles above the mouth of the Wabash. As the Ohio makes a great bendin this place, and our navigation was very slow, Messrs. B——, R——, and myself, determined on taking a tour to Harmony, now Owen’s settlement, fifteen miles distant from the ferry. The guide we took led us through a rich plain, with settlements scattered over it; the road was excellent, though a mere path, and we arrived at half-past ten.
Mr. Owen’s of Lanark, formerly Rapp’s Settlement.—Remarks on it.—Keel-boat Scenes.—Cave in Rock.—Cumberland and Tennessee Rivers.—Fort Massai.
About a hundred and fifty houses, built on the Swabian plan, with the exception of Mr. Rapp’s[B]former residence—a handsome brick house—presented themselves to our view. We were introduced to one of the managers, a Mr. Shnee, formerly aLutheran minister, who entered very soon into particulars respecting Mr. Owen’s ulterior views, in rather a pompous manner. This settlement, which is about thirty miles above the mouth ofthe big Wabash, in Indiana, was first established by Rapp, in the year 1817, and was now (in the year 1823), purchased by Mr. Owen, of Lanark, for the sum of 150,000 dollars. The society is to be established on a plan rather different from the one he has pursued in Scotland, and on a larger scale. Mr. Owen has, it is said, the pecuniary means as well as the ability to effect something of importance. A plan was shown and sold to us, according to which a new building of colossal dimensions is projected; and if Mr. Owen’s means should not fall short of his good will, this edifice would certainly exhibit themost magnificent piece of architecture in the Union, the capitol at Washington excepted. This palace, when finished, is to receive his community. According to his views, as laid down in his publications, in the lectures held by him at Washington and at New York, and as stated in the verbal communications of the persons who represent him, he is about to form a society, unshackled by all those fetters which religion, education, prejudices, and manners have imposed upon the human species; and his followers will exhibit to the world the novel and interesting example of a community, which, laying aside every form of worship and all religious belief in a supreme being, shall be capable of enjoying the highest social happiness by no other means than the impulse of innate egotism. It has been the object of Mr. Owen’s study to improve this egotism in the most rational manner, and to bring it to the highest degree of perfection; and in this sense he has published the Constitution, which is to be adopted by the community. It is distributed, if I recollect rightly, into three subdivisions, with seventy or more articles.—Mechanics of every description—people whohave learned any useful art,—are admitted into this community. Those who pay 500 dollars, are free from any obligation to work. The time of the members is divided between working, reading, and dancing. A ball is given every day, and is regularly attended by the community. Divine service, or worship of any kind, is entirely excluded; in lieu of it, moreover, a ball is given on Sunday. The children are summoned to school by beat of drum. A newspaper is published, chiefly treating of their own affairs, and of the entertainments and the social regulations of the community, amounting to about 500 members, of both sexes, composed almost exclusively of adventurers of every nation, who expect joyful days. The settlement has not improved since the purchase, and there appeared to exist the greatest disorder and uncleanliness. This community has since been dissolved as was to have been expected. The Scotchman seems to have a very high notion of the power of egotism. He is certainly not wrong in this point; but if he intends to give still greater strength to a spirit which already works with too much effect in the Union, it may be feared that he will soon snap the cords ofsociety asunder. According to his notions, and those of his people, all the legislators of ancient and modern times, religious as well as political, were either fools or impostors, who went in quest of prosperity on a mistaken principle, which he is now about to correct. Scotchmen, it is known, are sometimes liable to adopt strange notions, in which they always deem themselves infallible. I am acquainted with an honorable president of the quarter-sessions, who, as a true Swedenborghian, is fully convinced that he will preside again as judge in the other world, and that the German farmers will be there the same fools they are here, whom he may continue to cheat out of their property. Great Britain has no cause to envy the United States this acquisition. We stayed at this place about two hours, crossed the Wabash, and took the road to Shawneetown, through part of Mr. Birkbeck’s settlement. The country is highly cultivated, and the difference between the steady Englishman of the Illinois side, and the rabble of Owen’s settlement, is clearly seen in the style and character of the improvements carried on.
We arrived at Shawneetown, where our boat was waiting for us, having travelled since seven o’clock in the morning a distance of forty miles. We found our boat’s company in the utmost confusion. Our ladies had hitherto given a regular tea party at nine o’clock, out of their own stock of provisions. With the exception of guns, powder, shot, some hundred cigars, a few bottles of wine, the gentlemen were furnished with nothing. They went therefore to Shawneetown, a village twelve miles below the mouth of the Wabash, with sixty houses, and 300 inhabitants, of a very indifferent character, mostly labourers at the salt works of the Saline river. The party however were not so fortunate as to procure anything except a dried haunch of venison. On their return, the invalid doctor missed the negro girl he had brought to wait upon him, intending to sell her along with a male slave. She was gone. A search was commenced, but the honest inhabitants declared, with many G—d d—ns, that they did not know anything about her. The company discovered what was wanting, and persuaded the physician to offer a reward for her recovery. In less than half an hour, one of the worthy inhabitants came up with the run-away girl, leading her by a rope. He had shortly before assured some of the inquirers, under the pledge of a round oath, of his utter ignorance of the matter, whilst at the same time the slave was concealed in his kitchen. The second physician from Tennessee had the benevolent precaution of suggesting to the patient to keep himself cool. But every advice was thrown away. The Kentuckian could not resist striking the girl. With the utmost pain he raised himself up in his bed, to give her blows, which did himself infinitely more harm. When called upon to pay the reward of twenty dollars, his wrath rose to the highest pitch, and if he had had strength we should have witnessed a strange scene. He paid, however, and contented himself with binding her arms, and fastening her to the door-post, from which she was released by the following accident, which took place about eight o’clock, just as we returned from our excursion. One of the planters, a Kentuckian by birth, made a regular excursion, twice a day, to fetch milk and eggs for the company. The captain refused to dispatch the skiff for him, but the rest of the company sent it without asking thecaptain’s leave. Some hours after the Kentuckian’s return he heard of the captain’s refusal, and immediately accused him of negligence, &c. The captain gave him the lie, and hardly was the word spoken, when the Kentuckian rushed upon the young man with a dirk in his hand. He was, however, prevented, when turning round, he ran to the other side to fetch an axe, declaring at the same time, with a G——d d——n, he would knock down any body who dared to oppose him. I stood with Mr. B. at the door. A quarrel ensued, and he was going to force it open, when several gentlemen came to our assistance. During this riot the stove became heated to such a degree, as unobserved by any one, to set fire to the wood beneath it, so that the birth of our patient was in flames in a moment. Quarrelling, and murderous thoughts gave way to the danger of being roasted alive. All hands, even the Kentuckian, were assiduous in their endeavours to extinguish the fire; but this could not be so easily accomplished, the boat being extremely crowded. At last we succeeded; the poor doctor had almost been forgotten, and was very near being burnt alive, had it not been for his secondservant, who immediately laid hold of a bucket full of water, and poured it over his master. The behaviour of this invalid was strange beyond description, and shewed a degree of passion, at once ludicrous and pitiable. “For heaven’s sake,” exclaimed he, “I am roasting! no, I am drowning! the wretch has poured a whole bucket of water over me. Come hither, rascal!” The servant was obliged to approach, and tender his face to receive a box on the ear, certainly the most harmless he ever got; the master at the same time reproaching him with his villainy, and lamenting the consequences which this bath would bring upon him, such as rheumatism, fever, &c. We stood astonished and confounded at this man, the living image of a burnt-out volcano. “But for heaven’s sake,” said Mr. B., “Doctor, you would have been roasted alive but for your slave, and you have been the only cause of the fire, by the unsupportable heat you kept up in the stove; you must not do that again.” “He is my slave,” was the answer, “and should have stayed with me, instead of listening to your ungentlemanly disputes; then the fire would not have broken out.” We assented to this, and peace was fully restored.
The next day we proceeded on our journey, having the state of Illinois on our right, and Kentucky on our left. Thirteen miles below Saline river we visited the cave of Rock Island. The limestone wall, 120 feet high, runs for about half a mile along the right bank of the Ohio; nearly at its end is the entrance to the cave. A few steps bring you at once into the grotto, which is about sixty-five feet wide at the base, narrowing as you ascend, and forming an arch, the span of which is from twenty-five to thirty feet, extending to a length of 120 feet. Marine shells, feathers, and bones of bears, turkies, and wild geese, afford ample testimony that this place has not been visited by the curious alone, but has been the resort of numerous families, which had taken temporary refuge here.
Our sporting excursions had generally pigeons, turkies, or opossums, for their object; below the cave, in the rocks, wild geese and ducks become very plentiful. Flocks of from forty to one hundred were flying over our heads in every direction, and augmenting in numbers as we approached the Mississippi. We shot this day seven geese andducks, and passed the small villages of Cumberland, at the mouth of the river of that name, and Smithland, three miles below. Both villages are now springing up. The Cumberland is 720 feet wide at its mouth. The river Tennessee, thirteen miles below, is 700 feet. Eleven miles lower down, on the Illinois side, is fort Spassai, erected on a high bank and in a commanding position, which overlooks the Ohio, here a mile wide. The prospect for a distance of forty miles, is charming. The extraordinary beauty of the river, which the French very properly calledla belle rivière, on both sides the majestic native forests, clad in their autumnal foliage, here and there an island in the midst of the stream, with its luxuriant growth of trees, not unlike enchanted gardens. The charm which is diffused over the whole scene can scarcely be described. The fort is garrisoned by a captain, with a company of regulars, who, however, suffer much from swamps in the rear of the fort.
On the two following days we passed the county towns of Golconda, the seat of justice for Pope county; Vienna, for Johnson; and America, forAlexander county; villages which have nothing in common with the cities of which they remind you but the name. They are inhabited by some Kentuckians and loiterers, who spend part of their time in bringing down the Mississippi the produce of the country, for the transport of which they demand double wages, and are thus enabled to spend the rest of their time sitting cross-legged over their whiskey. The ninth day, about noon, we arrived at Trinity. I was heartily tired of this manner of travelling, and resolved to wait here with Mr. B., and Mrs. Th—— and family, for a steam-boat from St. Louis. The rest of the company went on in the boat, after an hour’s stopping. Trinity, or as it was formerly called, Cairo, is situated four and a half miles above the junction of the Ohio and Mississippi, consisting only of a tavern and a store, kept by a Mr. Bershoud. The inundations occurring regularly every year, have hitherto prevented the formation of settlements at this place. Though these inundations rise every year from four to ten feet above the banks, as may be seen from the weeds remaining in clusters on the trees, the inhabitants of these two houses have, if we exceptthe trouble of transporting their effects and goods to the upper story, but little to apprehend, the rise of the river being gradually slow, and its power being lessened by its circuitous course, and by the trees on its bank.
From Trinity down to Baton Rouge, a distance of 900 miles, the houses are constructed in such a manner as to be secured against accidents; the foundations are stumps of trees, or low brick pillars, four feet high. The houses are so built, or rather laid upon these pillars, as to allow the water to pass beneath. Notwithstanding this precaution, the flood generally reaches to the lower apartments, and passengers coming from Trinity to New Orleans last February, had to get into the skiff sent for them, through the window of the second story.
From Trinity to the mouth of the Ohio, are reckoned four and a half miles. We visited on the following morning, this remarkable spot, where two of the most important rivers unite.
The Mississippi.—General Features of the State of Illinois and its Inhabitants.
The nearer we approached the Mississippi, the lower the country became, and the more imposing the scenery. By degrees the river Ohio loses its blue tinge, taking from the mightier stream a milky colour, which changes into a muddy white when very near the junction—this junction itself is one of the most magnificent sights. On the left hand the Ohio, half a mile wide, overpowered, as it were, by its mightier rival—in front the more gigantic Mississippi, one mile and a half broad, rolling down its vast volumes of water with incredible rapidity. Farther on, the high banks of the state of Missouri, with some farm buildings of a diminutive appearance, owing to the great distance; in the back ground, the colossal native forests of Missouri; and lastly, to the south, these two rivers united and turning majestically to the south-west. The deep silence which reigns in these regions, and which is interrupted only by the rushing sound of the waves, and the immense mass of water, produce the illusion that you are no longer standing upon firm ground; you are fearful less the earth should give way to the powerful element, which, pressed into so narrow a space, rolls on with irresistible force. I had formerly seen the falls of Niagara; but this scene, taken in the proper point of view, is in no respect inferior to that which they present. The immense number of streams which empty into the Mississippi, and caused it to be named, very appropriately, theFather of Rivers, render it powerful throughout the year; it generally rises in February, and falls in July. In September and October the autumnal rains begin; and they continue to swell it through the winter. When it overflows its banks, the Mississippi inundates the country on both sides, for an extent of from forty-five to fifty miles, thus forming an immense lake. From the mouth of theOhio to Walnut hills, in the state of Mississippi, the difference between the lowest water and the highest inundation, is generally sixteen feet. The nearer it approaches the gulph of Mexico, the less is the flood. The water leaving its bed on the west side never returns, but forms into lakes and marshes. On the east side they find resistance from the high lands, that follow the meanderings of the river. Above Natchez, the river inundates the lands for a space of thirty miles. At Baton Rouge, the high lands take on a sudden a south-eastern direction, while the river turns to the south-west, thus leaving the waters to form the eastern swamps of Louisiana. It rises to thirty feet at that place; whilst at New Orleans it scarcely attains the height of twelve feet, and at the mouth no difference between a rise and fall is perceptible. Whoever comes to the Mississippi with the expectation of beholding a sea-like river flowing quietly along, will find himself disappointed. The magnitude of this river does not consist in its width but in its depth, and the immense quantity of water it pours out into the sea. At the mouth of the Ohio it is a mile and a half wide. This moderate breadth rather diminishesas it proceeds in its course. At New Orleans, after receiving the waters of some great tributary streams, it is not more than a mile in width, and in some places three quarters of a mile. Its depth, however, continues to increase; below the Ohio it is reckoned to be from thirty-five to fifty feet deep. Below the Arkansas to Natchez, from 100 to 150. From Natchez to New Orleans, from 150 to 250 feet. At its mouth, owing to the sand bar at the Paliseter, the depth greatly diminishes, and it is well known that vessels drawing eighteen feet of water can hardly enter the mouth of the stream. The waters of the Mississippi are not clear at any period of the year. This was the second time I saw it, when it was said to be very low; still its waters were of a muddy turbid appearance. When rising it changes to a muddy yellow. A glass filled with water from the Mississippi, deposits in a quarter of an hour a mass of mud equal to one tenth of the whole contents. But when clear, it is excellent for drinking, and superior to any I have tasted. It is generally used by those who inhabit its banks.
The accommodations in Trinity are comfortable, and the tables are well furnished, but the prices exorbitant. It cannot, however, be expected to be otherwise, owing to the new settlers, whose anxiety never permits them to neglect an opportunity of improving their means on their first outset. We found this to be the case on all occasions. Whenever some of our passengers made purchases of trifles, such as cigars, &c., they had to pay five times as much as in Louisville. It is therefore advisable to provide oneself with every thing, when travelling in these backwoods; the generality of the settlers on these banks being needy adventurers, partly foreigners, partly Kentuckians, who, with a capital of not quite 100 dollars, with which they purchase some goods in New Orleans, begin their commercial career, and may be seen with both hands in their pockets, their legs on the table or chimney-piece, and cigars in their mouths, selling their goods for five hundred per cent above prime cost. Towards the north on the banks of the Mississippi, the settlers are generally Frenchmen, who now assume by degrees the American manners and language. Many of them are wealthy store-keepers, merchants, andfarmers; but for the most part, however, a lightfooted kind of people, who, from their fathers, have inherited frivolity, and from their mothers, Indian women, uncleanliness. The towns of Kaskakia, Cahokia, &c., as well as several villages up the Mississippi to the Prairie des Chiens, owe their origin to them. The solid class of inhabitants live on the big and little Wabash, and between these two rivers and the Illinois. This is, no doubt, the finest part of the state, and one of the most delightful countries on the face of the earth. It is mostly inhabited by Americans and Englishmen. Agriculture, the breeding of cattle, and improvements of every kind, are making rapid progress. The settlements in Bond, Crawford, Edward’s, Franklin, and White Counties, are to be considered as forming the main substance of the state. A number of elegant towns have arisen in the space of a few years: among others, Vandalia, the capital, and for these three years past the seat of government, with a state house and a projected university, for which 36,000 acres of land have been assigned. An excellent spirit is acknowledged to prevail among the inhabitants ofthis district. Still, however, the style of architecture—if the laying of logs or of bricks upon each other deserves this name—the manners, the attempted improvements, every thing announces a new land, which has only a few years since started into political existence, and the settlers of which do not yet evince any anxiety for the comforts of life. Illinois has now 80,000 inhabitants, 1500 of whom are people of colour; the rest are Americans, English, French, and a German settlement about Vandalia. The state was received into the Union in the year 1818. The constitution, with a governor and a secretary at its head, resembles that of the state of Ohio. In the year 1824, the question was again brought forward concerning the possession of slaves: it was, however, negatived, and we hope it will never be pressed upon the people. The state is much indebted in every point to the late Mr. Birkbeck, who died too soon for the welfare of his adopted country. He was considered as the father of the state, and whenever he could gain over a useful citizen, he spared no expense, and sacrificed a considerable part of his property in this manner. The people of Illinois, in acknowledgment of his services, had chosen him for secretary of the state, in which character he died in 1825. He was generally known under the name of Emperor of the Prairies, from the vast extent of natural meadows belonging to his lands. It is to be regretted, however, that Mr. Birkbeck was not acquainted with the country about Trinity. His large capital and the number of hands who joined him, would no doubt succeed in establishing a settlement here. This will sooner or later take place, and will eventually render it one of the finest towns in the United States, as the advantages of its situation are incalculable. Illinois is, in point of commerce, more advantageously situated than any of the Ohio states; being bounded on the west by the river Mississippi, which forms the line between this state and that of Missouri, to the east by the big Wabash, and to the south by the Ohio, the river Illinois running through it with some smaller rivers; thus affording it an open navigation to the north-west, the west, the south, and the east. Towards the north the banks of the Upper Mississippi form a range of hills which join the Illinois mountains to theeast, and lowering by degrees lose themselves in the plains of lakes Huron and Michigan. The country is, on the whole, less elevated than Indiana, and forms the last slope of the northern valley of the Mississippi, the hills being intersected by a number of valleys, plains, prairies, and marshes. The fertility of this state is extraordinary, surpassing that of Indiana and Ohio. In beauty, variety of scenery, and fertility, it may vie with the most celebrated countries. Wheat thrives only on high land, the soil of the valleys being too rich. Corn gives for every bushel a hundred. Tobacco planted in Illinois, if well managed, is found to be superior to that of Kentucky and Virginia. Rice and indigo grow wild, their cultivation being neglected for want of hands. Pecans, a product of the West Indies, grow in abundance in the native forests. This state having a temperate climate, possesses many of the southern products. The timber is of colossal magnitude. Sycamores and cotton trees of an immense height, walnut, pecan trees, honey-locusts and maples, cover the surface of this country, and are the surest indications of an exceedingly rich soil. The most fertileparts of the state are the bottom lands along the Mississippi, Illinois, and the big and little Wabash. The country is complained of as being sickly. There is no doubt that a state which abounds in rivers, marshes, and ponds, must be subject to epidemic diseases, but the climate being temperate the fault lies very much with the settlers and the inhabitants themselves. The settler who chooses for his dwelling-house a spot on an eminence, and far from the marshes, taking at the same time the necessary precautions in point of dress, cleanliness, and the choice of victuals and beverage, may live without fear in these countries. All agree in this opinion, and I have myself experienced the correctness of it. The greatest part, however, of the new comers and inhabitants live upon milk or stagnant water taken from the first pond they meet with on their way, with a few slices of bacon. Their wardrobe consists of a single shirt, which is worn till it falls to pieces. It cannot, therefore, be matter of astonishment if agues and bilious fevers spread over the country, and even in this case a quart of corn brandy is their prescription.This being the general mode of living, and we may add of dying, among the lower classes, disease must necessarily spread its ravages with more rapidity.
Excursion to St. Louis.—Face of the Country.—Sketch of the State of Missouri.—Return to Trinity.
The steam-boat, the Pioneer, having come up to Trinity the following day, on its way to St. Louis, Mr. B. and I resolved to take a trip to the latter place, as the best chance that offered to get away as soon as possible. We started at ten o’clock in the morning, turned round the fork, and ascended the muddy Mississippi. The first town we saw was Hamburgh, on the Illinois side, consisting of nineteen frame dwellings and cabins, and four stores. On the left, in the state of Missouri, is Cape Girardeau. The settlement mostly consists of Frenchmen, and German Redemptioners. The town has not a very invitingappearance. One hundred and six miles above the junction of the Ohio and Mississippi, we landed at St. Genevieve to take in wood. This town is the principal mart for the Burton mines; it has a Catholic chapel, twenty stores, a printing office, 250 houses, and 1600 inhabitants. Twenty-four miles farther up the same side, is Herculaneum, with 300 inhabitants, a court-house, and a printing office. The town had been laid out and peopled by Kentuckians. There are several villages on the right and left bank, and some good-looking farms. On the third day, at twelve o’clock, we reached the town of St. Louis, 170 miles above the mouth of the Ohio, and thirteen miles below the junction of the Mississippi, and the Missouri. This town extends, in a truly picturesque situation, in 38° 33′ north latitude, and 12° 58′ west longitude, for the length of two miles along the river, in three parallel streets, rising one above the other in the form of terraces, on a stratum of limestone. The houses are for the most part built of this material, and surrounded with gardens. The number of buildings amounts to 620, that of the inhabitants to 5000. Its principal buildings are, a Catholic, and two Protestant churches, a branch bank of the United States, and the bank of St. Louis, the courthouse, the government-house, an academy, and a theatre; besides these, there are a number of wholesale and retail stores, two printing offices, and an abundance of coffee-shops, billiard-tables, and dancing-rooms. The trade of St. Louis is not so extensive as that of Louisville, and less liable to interruption, as the navigation is not impeded at any season of the year, the Mississippi, being at all times navigable for the largest vessels. An exception, indeed, occurred in 1802, when the Ohio and other rivers were almost dried up. The inhabitants of St. Louis and of Missouri, have therefore a never-failing channel for carrying their produce to market. This they generally do, when the rivers which empty themselves into the Mississippi, are so low that they have no apprehension of finding any competition in New Orleans. Last year, the market of New Orleans was almost exclusively supplied with produce from St. Louis and Missouri. Eighty dollars was the general price for a bullock, which at a later period would not have obtained twenty-five dollars; flour was at eight dollars, whereas,two months afterwards, abundance could be had for two and a half dollars. In the same proportion they sold every other article. It is this circumstance which contributes to the wealth of St. Louis, and of Missouri in general, to the detriment, on the other hand, of the Ohio States, Kentucky, Indiana, and Ohio. At the time of our arrival at St. Louis, there were in its port, five steam vessels, and thirty-five other boats. St. Louis is a sort of New Orleans on a smaller scale; in both places are to be found a number of coffee-houses and dancing rooms. The French are seen engaged in the same amusements and passions that formerly characterised the creoles of Louisiana, with the exception, that the trade with the Indians has given to the French backwoods-men of St. Louis, a rather malicious and dishonest turn—a fault from which the creoles of Louisiana are free, owing to the greater respectability of their visitors and settlers, from Europe, and from the north of the Union. The majority of the inhabitants of this town, as well as of the state, consists of people descended from the French, of Kentuckians, and foreigners of every description—Germans, Spaniards, Italians, Irish, &c. Kentucky manners are fashionable. Not long before my arrival, there occurred a specimen of this, in an open assault and duel between two individuals in the public street. For the last five years, men of property and respectability, attracted by the superior advantages of the situation, have settled at St. Louis, and their example and influence have been conducive of some good to public morals. The enterprising spirit of the Americans is remarkable, even in this place and state. Within the twenty-three years that have elapsed since the cession of this country (part of the former Louisiana) to the Union, much more has been achieved in every point of view, than during the sixty years preceding, when it was in possession of France and Spain. Streets, villages, settlements, towns, and farms, have sprung up in every direction; the population has augmented from 20,000 to 84,000 inhabitants; and if they are not superior in wealth to their neighbours, it is certainly to be attributed to their want of industry, and to their passing the greater part of their time in grog-shops, or in dancing-companies, according to the prevailing custom. Slavery, which is introduced here, though so illadapted to a northern state, contributes not a little to the aristocratic notions of the people, the least of whom, if he can call himself the master of one slave, would be ashamed to put his hand to any work. Still there is more ready money among the inhabitants, than in any of the western states, and prices are demanded accordingly. Cattle that fetch in Pennsylvania, Ohio, and Indiana, ten dollars per head, are sold in Missouri for twenty-five dollars, and so in proportion. The country about St. Louis to the north, south, and west, consists of prairies, extending fifteen miles in every direction, with some very handsome farm houses, and numerous herds of cattle. Though in the same degree of northern latitude as the city of Washington, the climate is more severe, owing to the two rivers Missouri and Mississippi, whose waters coming from northern countries greatly contribute to cool the air. The cultivation of tobacco has not succeeded, and the produce chiefly consists of wheat, corn and cattle;—equally important is the profit from the lead mines, and the fur trade. The most improved settlements are those along the Mississippi, and on the Missouri they are beginning to be formed.
Missouri was received into the Union in 1821, and is, with the exception of Virginia, the largest state of the Union, its area exceeding 60,000 square miles. To the north and west it borders on the Missouri territory; towards the east the Mississippi is the boundary between this state, Illinois, Kentucky, and Tennessee; the Arkansas territory lies to the south. It extends from 36° to 40° 25′ north latitude, and from 12° 50′ to 18° 10′ west longitude. The country forms an elevated plain, sloping considerably to the south, where it is crossed by the Ozark mountains. Marshes and mountains prevail more in the southern parts, high plains in the northern. Along the Mississippi and Missouri, the bottom lands are generally extremely fertile. The soils, however, cannot be altogether compared with that of Illinois. The possession of slaves is allowed by the constitution of this state, and their number amounts to 10,000; that of the rest of the inhabitants to 70,000. The form of government approaches very nearly that of Kentucky. We remained one day at St. Louis, and returned in the steam-boat, General Brown, to Trinity, where we took on board the ladies and some new passengers,returning from thence to the Mississippi. We passed several small islands, and a large one (Wolf’s Island), and landed at New Madrid at midnight, for the purpose of taking in wood. This place is the seat of justice for the county of the same name; it has, however, no court-house, and is a rather wretched looking place, containing about thirty log and shattered farm houses, with 180 inhabitants, Spaniards, French, and Italians. The two stores being open, we visited them. They were but poorly provided, having about a dozen cotton handkerchiefs, one barrel of whiskey, and a heap of furs. Two Indians were stretched on the ground before the door, and in a sound sleep, with their guns by their side. The Mississippi is continually encroaching upon the town, and has already swept away many intended streets, as the inhabitants say, obliging them to move back to their no small disappointment. The surrounding country is highly fertile, and in the rear of the town there are several well cultivated cotton and rice plantations. A rich plain stretches along to the west, behind New Madrid, as far as the waters of Sherrimack.
The State of Tennessee.—Steam-boats on the Mississippi.—Flat-boats.
We had now passed the western extremity of Kentucky, and had the state of Tennessee on our left. The eastern banks of the Mississippi, viz. on the Tennessee side, are throughout lower than the western or Missouri shores; presenting a series of marshes from which cypress trees and canebrack seem just emerging, lining them for hundreds of miles to the southward. Farther eastward, towards the rivers Tennessee and Cumberland, the soil is overgrown with sugar-maples, sycamore trees, walnuts, and honey-locusts; the mountains with white and live oak and hickory. The eastern part of the state resembles NorthCarolina. The middle part is by far the best. Cotton and tobacco are staple articles. Rice is cultivated with success. Hemp is not considered of the same quality as the Kentuckian, the climate being too warm. The tropical fruits, such as figs, thrive well; chesnuts are superior to those of the other states. Melons, peaches, and apples, are abundant. Tennessee is considered altogether a rich and fertile land. The inhabitants are liberal, noble hearted, and noted for their good conduct towards strangers. Several foreigners settled in the state, have attained a high degree of wealth and prosperity. There is no state in the Union where slavery has had less pernicious effects upon the character of the people. The inhabitants are mostly descendants of emigrants from North Carolina, and their hospitality is without bounds. This state extends, in an oblong square, from the shores of the Mississippi towards Virginia and North Carolina, in 35° to 36° 30′ north latitude, and 4° 26′ to 13° 5′ west longitude. It is bounded on the east by Virginia and North Carolina; on the south by Georgia, Albania, and Mississippi; on the west by the river Mississippi, and on thenorth by Kentucky, comprising altogether 40,000 square miles. East Tennessee partakes more of the sandy character of North Carolina. West Tennessee of the marshes of the Mississippi valley. Its principal rivers are the Cumberland and Tennessee, with the Mississippi on the west, where however, with the exception of some very small settlements, there are no improvements of any kind. The canal proposed by Governor Troup, of Georgia, to Governor Carrott, of Tennessee, which is to bring this state into immediate connection with the Atlantic, will have a very beneficial effect, these two rivers being navigable for steam-boats only during three months in the year, and New Orleans being the only market for Tennessee. Notwithstanding its straitened commerce, the state is rapidly improving, and several of its towns, though not large are yet very elegant. The chief wealth of the state, however, consists in the plantations, and the farmer and planter live in a style, which at least in point of eating, cannot be exceeded by the wealthiest nobleman in any country. Among the towns of the state, Nashville holds the first rank. This town occupies a commanding situation, on a solid cliff of rocks on the south side of the Cumberland, 200 feet above the level of the banks. The river is navigable here during three months in the year for steam-boats of 300 tons burthen. Besides the court-house, three churches, two banks, including a branch bank of the United States, three printing offices, and a great number of wholesale and retail merchants, there is the seat of the district court for the western part of Tennessee. Several literary institutions, such as Cumberland college, a ladies’ school, and reading-room with a public library, are evident proofs of a liberal spirit. This spirit is combined with unbounded hospitality. There is a number of houses, such as those of Governor Carrott, Major General Jackson, &c., where every respectable stranger is welcome, and may be sure of meeting with a select company. The surrounding country is beautiful, cotton plantations lining the banks of the river, and extending in every direction hither. The wealthier inhabitants generally retire during the summer months, from the stifling heats prevailing on the barren rocks upon which Nashville stands. Knoxville in east Tennessee, with 400 houses and 2,500 inhabitants, is of less importance; it is the seat of the supreme district court for east Tennessee, and has a bank, a college, and two churches. The country about Knoxville is far inferior to that round Nashville. The capital of Tennessee, Murfreesborough, has 1500 inhabitants, with a state-house, a bank, two printing-offices, &c. It communicates by water with Nashville, through Stonecreek. The situation seems not to be very judiciously chosen for a chief town. This was the state of things four years ago, when I passed through the place; but doubtless it has since proportionably increased. Our company being on this occasion of a less mixed, and a less troublesome character, we sailed down the majestic father of rivers, with minds well disposed to acknowledge our obligations to Mr. Fulton, for his happy idea of applying the power of steam to navigation. The settlers of the Mississippi valley, are in duty bound to raise a monument to the memory of a man, who has effected in their mode of conveyance so adventurous, and so successful a change. Not ten years have elapsed since the inhabitants of the west were used to toil likebeasts of burden, in order to ascend the stream for a distance of ten or fifteen miles a day; and when in 1802, some boats belonging to Mr. R., of Nashville, arrived from New Orleans in eighty-seven days, this passage was considered thene plus ultraof quick travelling by water, and was instantly made known throughout the Union. A passenger now performs the same voyage in five days, sitting all the while in a comfortable state-room, which in point of fitting-up vies with the most elegant parlours, writing letters, or reading the newspapers, and if tired of these occupations, paying visits to the ladies, if he be permitted to do so; or otherwise pacing the deck, where his less fortunate fellow passengers are hanging in hammocks—an indication to many of what may be their future state. There is certainly not any nation that can boast of a greater disposition for travelling, than Brother Jonathan; and there is again nobody more at home than he, whether in a tavern, or on board a vessel; as he is in the habit of considering a tavern, a vessel, or a steam-boat, as a kind of public property. Yet on board a vessel, or a steam-boat, he is very tractable. The great difference of fare betweena cabin and a deck passage, from Louisville to New Orleans, being for the former forty dollars, and for the latter eight dollars, contributes to establish a distinction in this assemblage of people, placing those who are found too light in the upper house, and the more weighty in the lower. The first have to find themselves, the others are provided with every thing in a manner which shows that private institutions for the benefit of the public, are certainly more patronised here than in most other countries. If the pecuniary resources of the citizen of the United States do not reach a very low ebb, he will certainly choose the cabin, his pride forbidding him to mix with the rabble, though the expence may fall too heavy upon him. That economical refinement which the French evince on these occasions, is not to be seen in America. When I proceeded four months ago from Havre to Rouen, in the Duchess of Angouleme steam-boat, among the 100 passengers who were on board, more than fifty well-looking people were seen unpacking their bundles, and regaling themselves with their contents—bread, chicken, cutlets, wine, &c., &c., a frugality which will hardly be found to contribute to theimprovement of a spirit of enterprise. The Americans would be ashamed of this kind of parsimony, which must ever impede all public undertakings. Owing to this cause, the American steam-boats are in point of elegance superior to those of other nations; and none but the English are able to compete with them. The furniture, carpets, beds, &c., are throughout elegant, and in good condition. Some of the new steam-boats are provided with small rooms, each containing two births, which passengers may use for their accommodation in shaving, dressing, &c. The general regulations are suspended above the side board in a gilt frame, and are as binding as a law. They prohibit speaking to the pilot during the passage—visiting the ladies’ state-room, without their consent—lying down upon the bed with shoes or boots on—smoking cigars in the state-room—and playing at cards after ten o’clock. The first transgression is punished with a fine; if repeated, the transgressor is sent ashore. The fare is excellent, and the breakfasts, dinners, and suppers, are provided with such a multiplicity of dishes, and even dainties, as would satisfy the most refined appetite.The beverage consists of rum, gin, brandy, claret, to be taken at pleasure during meals; but out of that time they are to be paid for. Distressing accidents will of course occasionally occur; the last of this kind was of a truly heart-rending nature: it happened four years ago, above Walnut-hills, in the steam-boat Tennessee. The night was tempestuous, the rain fell in torrents, and the captain, instead of landing and waiting until the weather cleared up, lost his senses, and ran on a sawyer[C]. The steam-boat was not sixty feet distant from the bank, which could not be distinguished, and she went down in a few seconds, together with 110 passengers, save a few who by accident reached the shore. Since that time, although steam-boats have sunk, no such loss of lives has occurred. This, however, is not to be compared with the hardships, the toils, the loss of health and life, to which the navigators of flat and keel-boats were formerly, and arestill exposed, when going down the Mississippi. Nothing more uncouth than these flat-boats was ever sent forth from the hands of a carpenter. They are built of rude timber and planks, sixty feet in length, and twenty-five feet in breadth, and so unmanageable, that only the strong arm of a backwoodsman can keep them from running upon planters[[D], sawyers, wooden-islands, and all the Scyllas and Charybdes, that are to be met with on the voyage. We found numbers of them along the Ohio, detained by low water; and from St. Louis down to New Orleans, sometimes fifteen, twenty, and thirty together. Their uncouth appearance, the boisterous and fierce manners of their crews, the immense distance they have already proceeded, make them truly objects of interest. One of these flat-boats is from the Upper Ohio, laden with pine-boards, planks, rye, whisky, flour; close to it, another from the falls of the Ohio, with corn in the ear and bulk, apples, peaches;a third, with hemp, tobacco, and cotton. In the fourth you may find horses regularly stabled together; in the next, cattle from the mouth of the Missouri; a sixth will have hogs, poultry, turkeys; and in a seventh you see peeping out of the holes, the woolly heads of slaves transported from Virginia and Kentucky, to the human flesh mart at New Orleans. They have come thousands of miles, and still have to proceed a thousand more, before they arrive at their place of destination.
Scenery along the Mississippi.—Hopefield.—St. Helena.—Arkansas Territory.—Spanish Moss.—Vixburgh.
We pursued our course at the rate of ten miles an hour, passing the Chickasaw Bluffs, Memphis, a small settlement on the Tennessee side, and a number of smaller and larger islands, from two to six miles in length, but seldom more than one in breadth. The sediment of the Mississippi is continually forming new sand banks, at the same time that its irresistible power carries away old ones. That river was, as I have already mentioned, very low, and the numerous sand banks on both sides contracted its channel into a bed scarcely more than half a mile broad. On these banks numberless flocks of wild ducks, geese,cranes, swans, and pelicans, stationed themselves in rows, extending sometimes a mile in length. As soon as the steam boat approaches, dashing through the water with the noise of thunder, and vomiting forth columns of smoke, they fly up in masses resembling clouds, and retire to their covers in the marshes and ponds contiguous to the banks of the Mississippi. They abound most 150 miles above Natchez, and hundreds of thousands are seen crossing the river in every direction. The scenery in view is an immense valley, with banks sixty feet above the water, forests of colossal trees on both sides, and the vast expanse of waters rolling with a velocity the more surprising, as the country stretches in a continued plain, with scarcely any perceptible decline. The rural scenery of the regions consists of detached cabins raised on huge stumps of trees; instead of windows there are the natural apertures of the logs joined together; in front of them woodstacks, for the use of the steam boats; ten or twelve deer, bear, or fox skins drying in the open air; some turkies and hogs, scattered over a corn patch, &c. Farms, or plantations, properly so called, are seldom to be met with here; the chief object of these settlersbeing the breed of cattle and poultry, for the use of steam-boats. The only trace of agriculture is a small tract of cotton field, which the settlers endeavour to improve.
We stayed an hour and a half in Hopefield, opposite to the Chickasaw Bluffs, the chief village of Hempstead county, with ten houses. There are two taverns, such as may be expected in these parts, a store and a post office. Two hours later we saw the mouth of the Wolf river; the beautiful President’s island, ten miles long, which with its colossal forests presents an imposing sight, with several small islands in its train. Among these is the Battle island, taking its name from a battle fought here between two Kentuckians, who compelled their captain to land them, and returned after half an hour, the one with his nose bitten off, the other with his eyes scooped out of their sockets! This night we arrived in the county town of St. Helena, ninety-five miles above the mouth of the Arkansas. The place was laid out a few years ago, and bids fair to become of some importance, from the extreme scarcity of spots adapted for towns on the banksof the Mississippi. The village is situated a quarter of a mile from the west bank. The cabin houses are built upon dwarfish round hills, resembling sugar loaves. Viewed from a distance they have a handsome appearance, which, however, considerably diminishes on approaching nearer to them. The spot is quite broken land. Two hundred yards further up, a ridge eighty feet above the level of the water, extends about a quarter of a mile, and six other houses are built upon it, amongst which is a tavern and store, with few articles besides a barrel of whisky for their Indian guests. A heap of furs, of every description, indicates that this trade is a very lucrative one. About thirty miles to the westward are the military lands, granted as a reward to the soldiers who served in the last war; only a few of them have come to settle on these grants. The distance from the eastern cities being so immense, the expenses of the journey, compared with the object they were about to attain, were so great, that most of them remained in the east.
On the following morning we passed the mouth of the White river, and thirteen mileslower down the river Arkansas, a beautiful, wide, and very important stream, next in size to the Ohio, which after a course of 2,500 miles, 900 of which are navigable for steam-boats, empties itself into the Mississippi at this place. From this river the territory of Arkansas has taken its name. It was formerly part of Louisiana, then of Missouri, and has since 1819, been separated from the latter, and now forms a distinct territory extending from 33° to 36° north latitude, and from 11° 45′ to 23° west longitude. Its area is computed to be above 100,000 square miles. With the exception of a few towns, such as Arkopolis, Post Arkansas, Little-rock, &c., and some other settlements of less note, it is not otherwise known than from the reports of the expeditions sent into the interior at various times. According to their accounts it differs in some essential points from the eastern states. The eastern part of this vast territory bears the character of the Mississippi valley, and abounds in well wooded plains, prairies, and marshes, in alternate succession, the latter occupying almost exclusively the tract of land situated between the rivers Arkansas and St. Francis towardsthe Ozark mountains. There the country rises; rocks and mountains become visible, announcing the approach to the Rocky mountains. Between these and the Ozark mountains are vast plains covered with salt crusts, imparting to the rivers flowing through the country a brackish taste. There have also been discovered valleys competing in point of fertility with the valley of the Mississippi; eminences covered for a distance of many miles with vines, whose grapes are said to be equal to the best produce of the Cape. In other places are vast plains, which owing to their stratum being gravel, produce but a short and dry grape, without any trees. The territory in the interior contains important mineral and vegetable treasures. The Volcanos, the Hotsprings, the Ouachitta lake, and other natural wonders, will soon attract general attention. From what was related to me by an eye witness who bestowed all his attention on them, they are undoubtedly of the first importance. The springs are six in number, and they are situated about ten miles from the Ouachitta, near a volcano. Their temperature being 150°, the use which visitors make of them consists in exposing themselves to the vapour. They are impregnated with carbonic acid, muriate of soda, and a small quantity of iron and calcareous matter. Hitherto, besides Indians and hunters, but few persons resorted to them until the last two years, when several gentlemen went thither for the recovery of their health. But the present total want of ready money in these deserted parts has prevented a more rapid improvement. The population amounts to 18,000 souls, 2,000 of whom are slaves. Mental improvement is here sought for in vain. The American reads his Bible, and if opportunity offers, he visits once a year a Methodist Missionary. The French care as little for one as for the other. Colleges, academies, or literary institutions there are none, but in Post Arkansas, Arkopolis, and Little-rock, schools are established. Those cannot be expected from a country without any political importance, and with a population scattered over such an immense extent. An extract from a newspaper published in Arkopolis, which I found in St. Helena, may give some idea of the honourables of these parts: “Mr. White respectfully begs leave to announce himself as candidate for their Representative, &c.—N.B. Tailoring business done in the best manner, and at the shortest notice!!”
Arkansas has hitherto been the refuge for poor adventurers, foreigners, French soldiers, German redemptioners, with a few respectable American families; men of fortune preferring the state of Mississippi or Louisiana, where society and the comforts of life can be found with less difficulty. It is certain, however, that the western part of this territory is healthier than the western states of Alabama, Georgia, and Mississippi, and that the Rocky and Ozark chain, running from east to west, obviates one great evil—the sudden change of temperature, caused by the want of high mountains to resist the power of the north and south winds.
A traveller who first visits the valley of the Mississippi, is led to believe that the waters of this immense river rise above the trees along its banks, leaving the branches covered with weeds and mud when they retire to their bed. It is Spanish moss or Tellandsea which presents that appearance to the traveller. It is firmly rootedin the apertures of the bark, and hangs down from the trees, not unlike long rough beards. This plant has a yellow blossom, and a pod containing the seed. It is found along the coast of the Mississippi, from St. Helena to below New Orleans, and is universally applied to all those purposes for which curled hair is used in the north. It is gathered from the trees with long hooks, afterwards put into water for a few days in order to rot the outer part, and then dried. The substance obtained by this simple process is a fine black fibre resembling horse hair. A mattrass stuffed in this manner may serve for a year, if not wetted; it then becomes dusty and requires that the moss should be taken out, beaten, and the mattress filled again, by which means it becomes more elastic than it was before.
We passed several settlements and islands, the mouth of the Yazoo rivers, and on the third day we arrived at Vixburgh, or Walnut-hills. We were now 600 miles from the mouth of the Ohio, and in that whole distance had not seen either a hill or mountain, with the exception of a few mole-hills at St. Helena, which rose, perhaps,to the height of twenty or twenty-five feet above the endless plain. The first objects which interrupt the sameness of this grand but rather uniform scenery, are the Walnut-hills, on the east bank of the river, in the state of Mississippi. They rise singly and perfectly detached. There may be eight or nine in number, with a small house on the top of each. Close to the landing-place is the warehouse of Mr. Brown; and farther back, some merchant’s stores, and two taverns. Half a mile from the bank rises a ridge about four miles long, and 300 feet high. This hill, notwithstanding its inconvenient situation, will probably be selected for the site of part of Vixburgh town, which was laid out two years ago, and is now the seat of justice for Warren county. It has already fifty houses and three stores. Several steam-boats are regularly employed in the cotton trade. As there is not a single place on the banks of the Mississippi, where a town of some extent could be built without being exposed to the floods, Vixburgh must very soon become a place of great importance for the upper part of the state of Mississippi. The surrounding country begins to berapidly settled; and civilization, which is almost extinct for more than a 1000 miles up the Mississippi and the Ohio, here resumes its power, and increases the farther you descend towards New Orleans.
On the following day we passed Warrington, Palmyra, Davies’, Judge Smith’s settlements, the Grand and Petit Golfe, and Gruinsburgh, and arrived at five o’clock in the evening at Natchez.