Occupied by the Germans since September, 1914, and strongly fortified by them, the village and surrounding country were attacked by the French on September 25, 1915, during a minor offensive, intended to cover the main attack in Champagne. The French, after a short advance, were forced to retire on their original positions, in consequence of counter-attacks debouching from Servon.

The village was only retaken on September 26, 1918, by the French 4th Army, which, on the evening of the same day, reached the wood 1 km. 500 to the north-east of the village, after a fierce struggle.

To-day Servon is an absolute ruin. The cemetery alone, on the left of the road, indicates the site of the village.

Below the ruins of the church, which stood on the top of the hill on which the village was built, several German shelters (photo, p.92) may still be seenalong G.C.66.

FRENCH MILITARY GRAVES AT ST. THOMASAlongside the road from Servon.

FRENCH MILITARY GRAVES AT ST. THOMAS

Alongside the road from Servon.

Immediately beyond these sheltersturn into the road on the left, which runs through the village;on both sides are other defence-works.

Outside the village, leave the (impassable) Vienne-le-Château road on the left, and keep straight on.

G.C. 66 runs alongside the Aisne as far asSt. Thomas,then passes bytrenches and barbed-wire entanglements—the remains of the old German front lines.

Shortly afterwards, the old French front linesare reached.To the right, on the left bank of the Aisne, is seenthe hamlet ofMelzicourt, which the French retook on October 25, 1914.

All through the trench warfare the French line ran through the Melzicourt Ford.

Two kilometres beyond Servon, by the side of the road, are large sheltersof stone and cement (photo, p.92).Opposite isa French military cemetery (photo, p.95).Two kilometres further onSt. Thomasis reached.

FIRST FRENCH LINE IN AISNE VALLEY BEFORE SERVON(St. Thomas’ Sector.)

FIRST FRENCH LINE IN AISNE VALLEY BEFORE SERVON

(St. Thomas’ Sector.)

The little village of St. Thomas formerly possessed a rich priory, founded in 1096 by Robert, Abbot of St. Méry, and Manassés, Archbishop of Rheims.

The modern church was built on the site of the Priory Chapel, destroyed during the Revolution.

The village has completely disappeared; of the church only a few broken fragments of wall remain.

On leaving St. Thomas, G.C. 66 winds down into the valley of the Biesme, passes neara military cemetery,crosses the valley, then divides.Take the left-hand road (G.C. 67) which soon passes nearthe farm of La Renarde,then alongsidea large military cemetery,finally reachingVienne-le-Château(3 km. beyond St. Thomas).

ST. THOMAS CHURCH AND VILLAGESeen from G.C. 66 going towards Servon.

ST. THOMAS CHURCH AND VILLAGE

Seen from G.C. 66 going towards Servon.

VIENNE-LE-CHÂTEAU. RUINS OF CHURCH

This very picturesque, industrial and forestal village was a royal provostship before the Revolution.

In the 6th century it belonged to the Bishops of Verdun.

The castle-fortress on the hill which dominates the town to the west was razed in 959 by the Count of Grandpré.

Later, it was several times rebuilt and demolished. Fragments of the ramparts may still be seen.

In the 12th century the district was purchased by the Count of Bar.

Vienne-le-Château was shelled by the Germans, especially in 1914 and 1915. The greater part of the village was wiped out, but the church and neighbouring Town Hall did not greatly suffer.

VIENNE-LE-CHÂTEAU. NAVE AND TRANSEPT OF CHURCH

VIENNE-LE-CHÂTEAU. ROAD LEADING TO LA PLACARDELLE

The church dates from the 15th century, with the exception of the façade, which is 18th century.

G.C. 67, after turning to the right, passes by the Town Hall, and follows the valley of the Biesme.

This almost straight river is often called “the canal” by the inhabitants.

VIENNE-LE-CHÂTEAU. INTERIOR OF RUINED FACTORY (1915)

The road hereabouts is very picturesque, and one of the finest in the Argonne. It runs south of the woods ofGruerie,BolanteandChalade,i.e., through that part of the forest where, in 1914-1915, the battles whichhave made the Argonne famous were fought. Of the many famous places in this forest those most accessible to tourists are mentioned and described in the order in which they may be visited without unduly prolonging the itinerary.

LA HARAZÉE. CHURCH BELL INSTALLED AS GAS ALARM SIGNAL

One kilometre from Vienne-le-Château, take on the left a road, made during the war, which crosses the Biesme, and then follow the right bank, pastnumerous constructions and shelters (photos above and below), toLa Harazée.

In this village, completely ruined, near a French military cemetery,G.C.67,coming from the left bank of the Biesme, is joined.

Take the small path which first runs alongside a stream, then climbs towardsGruerie Wood, for 500 yards, to see the battlefield. The wood, which was hacked to pieces by the shells, contains numerous defence-works of all kinds, and makes an impressive sight.Further along the road arethe German front lines.

LA HARAZÉE. ALL THAT IS LEFT OF THE VILLAGEAt back: GRUERIE WOOD

LA HARAZÉE. ALL THAT IS LEFT OF THE VILLAGE

At back: GRUERIE WOOD

PATH FROM LA HARAZÉE TO GERMAN TRENCHES IN GRUERIE WOOD

Gruerie Wood, which thepoiluscalled “Tuerie Wood” (Slaughter Wood), was one of the most active and dangerous sectors on the Western front from September, 1914, to the end of 1915. The conditions of warfare there were particularly trying. Attack followed attack almost without a pause, generally preceded by mine explosions, and often developing into ferocious hand-to-hand struggles. In this wood, sectors like thePavillon de Bagatelle, and the valleys of theFontaine-aux-CharmesandFontaine-Madame, were the most fiercely contested.

From Bagatelle a path leads to Fontaine-aux-Charmes, following the stream of that name (which falls into the Biesme at La Harazée), and then running beside the stream of Fontaine-Madame. These two streams, on the south-east of Bagatelle, enclose a plateau broken by ravines and hills, along which the French advanced in September and October, 1914, threatening the German lines of communication through the Argonne. The Germans repeatedly tried to force them back south of the Servon-Varennes road, and to slip in through the valley of Fontaine-aux-Charmes, towards La Harazée. In December, 1914, they attacked Fontaine-Madame six times and Bagatelle three times. In January, 1915, attacks and counter-attacks occurred almost daily. From the 16th to the 26th, fifteen German attacks were launched in succession between Fontaine-Madame and St. Hubert, lying to the south-east, on the stream of Fontaine-au-Mortier. The French replied by immediate counter-attacks, and in the terrible fighting which followed each side gained a hundred yards or so of trenches. On the 27th, the Germans launched three attacks in the direction of Bagatelle, while two days later the whole of the XXVIIth Wurtemberg Division, previously drugged with alcohol and ether, hurled themselves against the same position. The French left gave way, but retook part of the lost ground after six counter-attacks. The struggle continued on the following days, and, after heavy losses on both sides, the Germans were repulsed twice during the night of January 29, once on January 30, once on February 1, three times on the 2nd, twice on the 4th and 7th. On February 17, 1915, while a French offensive was developing in the district of Hurius-in-Champagne, the French troops in the Argonne attacked the enemy, to prevent reinforcements being sent from that part of the front. On the right bank of the Fontaine-aux-Charmes stream they blew up a German blockhouse, and subsequently shelled the gun-emplacement with a 65 mm. gun at 400 yards range. The most important operation was directed against the German position of theBlanleuil Croupe, lying betweenSec Ravinand theRavine of Fontaine-Madame, from which it was possible to enfilade the Bagatelle salient. Three mine chambers were made under the German lines. The attacking troops were divided into three waves: the first (one company), after the explosion of the mines, was to seize the position, pass it, and push on; the second (one company) was to consolidate the captured position; the third (a battalion) was to reinforce the attacking party and exploit the success. Each assaulting column was preceded by a bomb-thrower and followed by sappers with sand-bags and entrenching tools. At 8 a.m. the mines were fired, one of them blowing up a German mine. Two

GRUERIE WOOD. SUBTERRANEAN PASSAGE, 25 FT. DEEPAwaiting inspection by General commanding Sector.

GRUERIE WOOD. SUBTERRANEAN PASSAGE, 25 FT. DEEP

Awaiting inspection by General commanding Sector.

minutes later the three assaulting columns, led by their officers, dashed forward. The position, attacked from three sides, was taken, and a hundred Germans were killed in the trenches. Four prisoners and a machine-gun were captured. At 8.30 the French held 350 yards of the German trench, and reached the second line, which was full of Germans. The enemy then launched fierce counter-attacks, which gave them back their second line. On the French side the second wave had arrived to reinforce the first company in the captured position. Two machine-guns mowed down the advancing Germans, but were in turn put out of action by the enemy, who renewed their counter-attacks with grenades. The French were reinforced by two companies of the third wave, the third company being used to revictual the combatants with grenades, bombs, and sand-bags. The Germans renewed their counter-attacks, but were driven back. Between 1.30 and 3 p.m., after a violent bombardment with artillery andminenwerfer, which churned up the ground, the enemy counter-attacked the French right in force with bayonets, but were checked. The attack was renewed with grenades and bombs, and this time the Germans advanced through all the trenches in the vicinity. After a heroic resistance the French had to give way, and at about 4.30 p.m. the position was lost. The enemy then attacked the rest of the trench on the flank; under an incessant hail of bombs, the French were forced to withdraw, retreating step by step—200 yards in two hours—with a loss of 40 per cent of their forces. Little by little, their ammunition exhausted, and in the face of the impossibility of bringing up supplies, they were obliged to abandon the position and return to the trench from which they had started. A company of Chasseurs fought for two hours with German rifles and ammunition, and with unexploded German bombs. On March 1 another desperate struggle took place at Blanleuil. At about 7.15 a.m. three enemy mines exploded under the French trenches, and the Germans rushed into the craters, overwhelming two companies in the first line, the survivors of which fought hand-to-hand. The Germans, heavily reinforced, made considerable progress in Fontaine-Madame ravine, but a counter-attack by a French battalion stopped and held them. At nightfall another battalion counter-attacked in a snow-storm, and after four hours of bayonet fighting recaptured the greater part of the lost ground. Very few prisoners were taken on either side. On March 22, at Bagatelle, after the explosion of three mines, two French companies took a German trench and repulsed a strong attack, while 500 yards away the enemy also exploded mines, threw themselves into the French trenches, and in a hand-to-hand fight were beaten and driven back. From June 30 to July 15 the sector was affected by the German offensive between Four-de-Paris and Binarville road. On July 28, and on August 4 and 17, three Germanefforts against Fontaine-aux-Charmes broke down. On September 9, a fresh and more powerful attack ended in a desperate struggle. The Germans, repulsed, renewed the attack a second time without success. On the following day the sector was heavily bombarded with big shells. From 1916 this sector became quieter, the fierce and prolonged struggle of 1915 giving place to a mutual shelling of the trenches with occasional grenade attacks and raids on both sides.

GRUERIE WOOD. ST. HUBERT SECTORTaking the soup to troops in first-line trenches.

GRUERIE WOOD. ST. HUBERT SECTOR

Taking the soup to troops in first-line trenches.

Another sector, that of St. Hubert, was the scene of frequent struggles from October, 1914, to September, 1915. In December, 1916, the Germans attacked St. Hubert five times. After alternately advancing and retreating, the French succeeded in maintaining their positions.

Between January 16 and 27, 1915, some fifteen enemy attacks took place in this region. At the beginning of July the battle became more violent. On August 2, the Germans made use of liquid fire in an attack. Subsequently the sector became quieter, like the rest of the Argonne.

Not far from St. Hubert the French line described a pronounced salient, known as Marie-Thérèse, in the enemy positions to the north of Fontaine-la-Mitte. This name was given to the position by thepoilus, probably on account of the proximity of the lodge of a gamekeeper who had a daughter named Marie-Thérèse. Surrounded on three sides by the German lines, the Marie-Thérèse salient was difficult to hold, and the Germans frequently endeavoured to reduce it. On January 19, 1915, they exploded two mines in front of the French trenches, but the French immediately occupied the craters. On the 22nd, after having pushed sap-heads as close as possible to the French lines, the German grenadiers suddenly emerged from them at about 10 a.m., each throwing two large bombs. Then one of their battalions attacked the three sides of the position, killed the machine-gunners, and at certain points penetrated into the French second line. At 2 p.m. a battalion of French Chasseurs counter-attacked, and partly reoccupied the first line, but was then repulsed by German reinforcements. A third counter-attack in the evening and a fourth on the following morning regained some of the lost positions after a terrific struggle. All day and all night the fight went on with bombs, grenades, bayonets, knives, pickaxes—anything the men couldlay their hands on—with equal ferocity on both sides. A hundred Frenchmen, nearly all wounded, were taken prisoners. At about 9.30 a.m. on February 10, the Germans mined some of the French trenches, and then attacked in considerable force, but although they occupied part of them, the attack was arrested almost immediately by a counter-attack, and in the evening the enemy was partially driven back. The fighting here was ferocious. The Germans, mostly drunk or drugged, murdered some prisoners after disarming them. About midday on the 12th, the enemy, in columns four abreast, on a front of 300 to 400 yards, once more hurled themselves against the Marie-Thérèse salient. However, after being brought to a stand by rifle fire, then scattered by an artillery barrage, they retreated with very heavy losses. Two hours later, two companies of French Chasseurs attacked in their turn, but suffered severely from the machine-gun fire, only one party succeeding in getting into contact with the enemy in a trench to which they clung. Twice on May 12, several times in the beginning of July, on August 2 (when they used liquid fire), on August 12 and 24, and twice on August 29, the Germans attacked this so greatly coveted and so well defended salient. Finally, there, as elsewhere, they abandoned all hope of breaking down the resistance of the French, and thereafter “Marie-Thérèse” was seldom mentioned in the communiqués.

GRUERIE WOOD. ST. HUBERT SECTOR. MARIE THÉRÈSE RAVINE

After visiting Gruerie Wood, return to and proceed along G.C. 67. The road passes besidetwo large French cemeteries,thena row of dug-outs. The forest becomes more and more denuded of trees, which were smashed by the shells.The site ofFour-de-Parisis soon reached, though not a trace of the village remains (photo, p. 104).Four-de-Paris is 2 km. from La Harazée.

It was against the Four-de-Paris sector that the first efforts of the Germans, after their retreat of September, 1914, were directed. No sacrifice, however costly, was considered too great to recapture this essential position on the road to Les Islettes.

In two days (November 27-28) seven enemy attacks were launched to the north of Four. Three times on December 5 their troops, to the soundof fife and drum, returned to the charge, but without success. On the 18th, after blowing up a trench, they again attacked. On January 5, 1915, by way of a diversion, the French 2nd battalion of the 4th Foreign (or Garibaldian) Regiment carried out an operation in this sector, while, further to the east, the rest of the regiment delivered the main attack at Courte-Chausse. At 10 a.m., the Garibaldians, supported by some bomb-throwers belonging to the 9th Battalion of Chasseurs and French 91st Regiment of the Line, and by two sections of the engineers, attacked the enemy trenches on a front of 400 yards, but, decimated by machine-gun fire, they were unable to reach them. On February 16-17 and on March 9 there were renewed and violent struggles. From June 29 to July 15 the battle broke out again in this sector, interrupted from time to time by terrible bombardments with gas shells.

GENERAL VIEW OF THE “FOUR-DE-PARIS”(see page 103)The road in the foreground leads from Four-de-Paris to Varennes.

GENERAL VIEW OF THE “FOUR-DE-PARIS”(see page 103)

The road in the foreground leads from Four-de-Paris to Varennes.

In 1916 and 1917 this sector, like the rest of the Argonne, quieted down. Mining operations continued from time to time, but there were no battles properly so called. In the occasional surprise attacks which took place, the French generally got the better of the enemy.

From Four-de-Paris, instead of going to La Chalade by the direct road through the valley of the Biesme (2 km. 500), the Itinerary follows a number of roads (17 km. 500 in all) through the forest, in order to visitcertain picturesque spots and at the same time to see places likeBolante,Les Meurissons,La Haute-Chevauchée,Fille-Morte,Pierre-CroiséeandCourte-Chausse, made famous by the war. All these places were the scene of fierce conflicts in 1914 and 1915.

In December, 1914, many engagements, in which the French made slight progress, took place in this sector. It was to the east of Bolante Wood, in the wild ravine of La Fontaine-des-Meurissons, that the Garibaldian Regiment—raised by the Republicans of Italy to fight in France, and placed at the disposal of General Gérard (commanding the 2nd Active Corps)—received its baptism of fire. On December 26, 1914, the 2nd Garibaldian Battalion was detailed to carry a German trench. The attacking front was limited, about 150 yards, but the position was strongly held and protected by a deep entanglement of barbed wire. After an artillery preparation lasting from midnight until dawn, the Garibaldian companies rushed forward, one behind the other, to make a breach at all costs, but were held up by the uncut wire. At

“FOUR-DE-PARIS.” FRONT-LINE DEFENCES (1916)

one point an opening was made and a few men got through to the edge of the German trench, only to be killed there. It was during this engagement, which cost the 2nd Battalion 30 dead, 17 missing, and 111 wounded, that Second-Lieutenant Bruno Garibaldi—a grandson of Giuseppe Garibaldi, “the old red bird” whom, in 1870, the Prussian General Werder confidently expected to “catch in his nest” in the Vosges, but failed in the attempt—was killed. Bruno Garibaldi, though in reserve, advanced to the assault with the 2nd Battalion, his sword drawn, his green tunic unfastened, showing the traditional and symbolic red shirt. Wounded in the hand, he went back to the trench to have it dressed, then returned immediately to the fight. Struck by a bullet he continued to urge his men forward, until another laid him low. Before dying, he embraced a wounded comrade near by, saying, “Kiss my brothers for me.” On January 5, 1915, further to the right, on the Courte-Chausse plateau, the 1st and 3rd Garibaldian Battalions had their revenge. Eight mines, the galleries of which, forty to fifty yards in length, ran under the German trench, were charged with about 6,000 lbs. of explosives during the night. At 7 a.m. the next morning the mines were fired, one after the other, after which, to the sound of bugles and drums, eight Garibaldian companies took the shattered enemy front line in a single charge, threw a German counter-attack into disorder, took and retook the second line, and penetrated into the third German line. This they were unable to hold, but they had nevertheless made an important advance, taken four machine-guns, twominenwerfer, and 200 prisoners of the 135th, 26th, and 24th German Regiments—most of them Pomeranians. By a strange coincidence it was the flag of a Pomeranian regiment—the LXIst—that had been taken in 1870 at the Battle of Dijon by Ricciotti Garibaldi, Bruno’s father. The Garibaldians’ losses that day were heavy. Among the dead was Adjutant-Chief Costante Garibaldi, Bruno’s brother. Some days later a violent battle took place in the Meurissons ravine. On January 7, after a half-hearted German attack, which was easily beaten off, rough trenches were dug on the plateau—in view of a possible retreat—by men belonging to the 46th French Regiment of the Line, who worked under heavy fire. General Gouraud, commanding the 10th Infantry Division,who came to examine the position, was wounded in the shoulder by a machine-gun bullet. On the following day a violent German artillery preparation began at dawn. At 7.30 a.m. three regiments of fresh enemy troops (Bavarian infantry) advanced to the attack. A trench held by men of the 89th Regiment of the Line was blown up, the French line was broken, and the Bavarians took on the flank the first and second lines held by troops of the 89th and 46th Regiments of the Line, who put up a fierce resistance. On the plateau the 11th Company of the 46th, which held the unfinished supporting trench, stopped the rush of the enemy. The Germans, unwilling to risk a frontal attack, turned the position on the right flank, and finally took the trench, but only after the gallant defenders had fired their last cartridges. The Germans penetrated into the ravine, capturing the regimental headquarters, and wounding the colonel and his staff. The 11th Company, however, still held on. On the crest, the cooks and the sick seized rifles and joined in the fight. At about 9.30 a.m. a blast of trumpets on the right announced the arrival of reinforcements. Units of the French 89th Regiment of the Line and 2nd Garibaldian Battalion charged through the undergrowth. A furious hand-to-hand struggle ensued in the copse-wood, no quarter being given. The French succeeded in saving their comrades of the 46th, and checked the enemy, who eventually evacuated the ravine. At dawn on the 9th, units of the 120th Regiment of the Line relieved the Garibaldians, who numbered among their dead the Regiment’s adopted child, Gaston Huet, a French boy of twelve, who had fought like a man. It was in vain that the Germans renewed their attacks; until nine o’clock in the evening they were repulsed and held. The remnant of the French 46th Regiment of the Line—some three hundred men—under the command of a captain clung for three days without supplies, to their positions. Their splendid resistance and sacrifice were not in vain, as reinforcements arrived in time to re-establish the position.

FOUR-DE-PARIS FARM IN 1915 (SUBSEQUENTLY RAZED TO THE GROUND), ON THE ROAD TO CHALADE

From March 9 to 19, several French attacks between Four-de-Paris and Bolante gave slight gains, in spite of enemy counter-attacks.

FOUR-DE-PARIS FARM IN 1918 (see p. 103)

SHELL CRATERS ON HILL 285, IN THE “FILLE MORTE” SECTOR (as seen from the road)

On August 7, part of a trench was taken by the Germans in a night attack at Fille-Morte. During the whole of that month, at Courte-Chausse, Les Meurissons, La Haute-Chevauchée and Bolante, continual fighting took place with artillery, mines, trench-mortars, grenades and bombs. On September 27, during the French offensive in Champagne, the Germans attempted a diversion against Bolante and Fille-Morte. After a heavy bombardment with explosive and gas shells, a force of nearly two regiments attacked in four successive waves. At first they made some slight progress, but were soon almost everywhere repulsed with very heavy losses. From October, 1915, it was in this part of the Argonne that the activity was greatest, though here, as elsewhere, the fighting considerably diminished. In 1916, frequent mining operations gave rise to grenade fighting around the craters at Fille-Morte, Bolante, La Haute-Chevauchée and Courte-Chausse. In 1917, mine warfare was practically abandoned, but both sides frequently maderaids into the opposing trenches, for the purpose of taking prisoners and destroying the works and shelters there.

GERMAN CEMETERY ON THE ROAD FROM FOUR-DE-PARIS TO VARENNES (4 km. from the former)

On reaching Four-de-Paris from La Harazée, take G.C. 38, on the left, towards Varennes.

The road follows the valley of Les Meurissons(on the right isBolante Wood),crossesHill 265,and passes by theoriginal front lines.

From here onwards, veritable villages built by the Germansmay be seen on the sides of the hill, on the left bank of the Meurissons stream.

The forest on the crest of the hill was cut to pieces by the shells.

Almost at the top of the hill the road runs pasta German cemetery containing a curious monument (4 km. from Four-de-Paris; photo above).

DESTRUCTION OF THE ARGONNE FOREST

One kilometre further on, at the Meurissons cross-roads,La Haute-Chevauchée, an old Roman road,is reached.

Follow La Haute-Chevauchée—a very interesting road, but in bad repair—driving slowly and carefully for the first 2 km.

The road passes throughJardinet Wood, which is full of dug-outs, shelters and gun-emplacements.

On leaving the woodthe view is impressive. Hill 285, opposite, is literally ploughed up by the shell fire, while not a single tree is left (photo below).

This is the sector of the Fille-Morte, Pierre-Croisée and Courte-Chausse.

The road goes round the hill, passinga succession of shell-craters on the crest.

Shortly afterwards, after entering Chalade Wood, the road improves.On both sides are French structures of stonework.

HILL 285, IN THE “FILLE MORTE” SECTOR(The car is going towards the Croix-de-Pierre cross-roads.)

HILL 285, IN THE “FILLE MORTE” SECTOR

(The car is going towards the Croix-de-Pierre cross-roads.)

One kilometre beyond Hill 285 is the Sept-Fontaines cross-roads, where stooda French dressing-station,facing the road going towards the Mont-de-Villers.

Keep straight on: 1 km. 800 further on, at the cross-roads, near the site of the Forest Keeper’s Lodge, there isa large military cemetery. The Lodge was completely destroyed.

2 km. 300 further on, Croix-de-Pierre cross-roads is reached. Fifty yards this side of the cross-roads, on the left, isthe shelter where Lieutenant de Courson met a glorious death in 1915 (photo, p.110).

At Croix-de-Pierre cross-roads, where the Neuvilly road (on the left) and the Clermont road (in front) start, turn to the right into the road leading to Chalade (called Chemin des Romains).

Pass an old camp (Camp Monhoven), then 1 km. beyond Croix-de-Pierre leave the Claon road on the left.

Two kilometres further on there is a sharp descent leading to G.C. 22, which take on the right for 1 km. toChalade.

The village of Chalade grew up around a monastery founded in 1120 by Robert and Riouin, monks of the Abbey of St. Vanne at Verdun.

The Abbey, occupied first by the Benedictines, and afterwards (from 1127) by the Cistercians, was placed under the care of the Bishops of Verdun, protected by the Lords of Vienne-le-Château.

The monks drained the marshes of the valley of the Biesme and cultivated the slopes.

The Abbey church, begun in 1275, was never finished.

There is a legend that the prior, who had given up all hope of finishing the church, received a visit from the Devil, who offered to finish the building for him, on condition that he should have the soul of the first Christian who crossed the threshold of the completed church.

SHELTER, NAMED AFTER FRENCH OFFICER WHO FELL THERE IN 1915

The prior having refused this offer, the Devil scattered in all directions the houses which had until then been grouped around the monastery, and reduced to dust the blocks of “gaize” in the quarries.

Since that time the houses have remained scattered, and there are no more blocks of “gaize” to be found in the neighbourhood.

This legend is doubtless a naïve explanation of natural phenomena, “gaize” being a silicious clay peculiar to the district.

The Abbot’s house in the enclosure is in ruins. South of the church, monastic buildings, probably erected in the 17th century, are still standing, though in a dilapidated condition.

The Abbey church became the church of the parish. The windows and rose-window were restored in the 19th century. The nave has lost two of its bays, and the steeple has been pulled down.

The Gothic nave is large and high, the springing of the vaults resting on sculptured capitals. Fragments of old stained-glass, still to be found in some of the windows before the war, were destroyed by the bombardments.

At the end of the nave there is a fine rose-window, the mullions of which are said to have been taken from the old Abbey of St. Vanne at Verdun.

CHALADE. MILITARY GRAVES AND CHURCH

Return by G.C. 22, continuing along this road toClaon(3 km).

This little village served as a cantonment during the war, and was also a revictualling centre.

Take the road to the right in the village, returning to Sainte-Menehould, via Florent (9 km).

Before entering Sainte-Menehould, the road passes bya large French military cemetery containing 9,000 graves.

SAINTE-MENEHOULD. GREAT FRENCH MILITARY CEMETERY,with monument to the defenders of the Argonne(10th and 18th C.)

SAINTE-MENEHOULD. GREAT FRENCH MILITARY CEMETERY,

with monument to the defenders of the Argonne(10th and 18th C.)

FRENCH MINE-THROWER ABOUT TO BE FIRED

PRINTED IN THE U. S. A.BY ESSEX PRESS, INC., NEWARK, N. J.

BEAUTIFUL FRANCEParis and its environsPARIS—home of grandeur, elegance, and wit—plays a part in France probably unequalled in any other country, and may be considered, in many respects, as the chief city of Europe, and one of the greatest in the world. Above all, it possesses eminently national qualities which ten centuries of refinement and taste have handed down to contemporary France.It is impossible, in a few lines, to paint the exceptional charms of Paris which the whole world admires.Its vistas of the Champs-Elysées seen from the Tuileries and the Arc de Triomphe; of Notre-Dame and the point of the City Island seen from La Concorde Bridge; of the River Seine, the Institute, the Louvre, seen from the Pont-Neuf embankment; Notre-Dame and its quays, seen from the end of St. Louis Island; the panorama of the city seen from the top of Montmartre Hill; the Avenue du Bois de Boulogne and the Bois de Boulogne itself, etc., etc.,—all are of incomparable beauty.The city’s historical monuments are of inestimable value, and the most famous art treasures are to be found in its Museums.The surroundings of Paris join the charm of their landscapes to the world-wide fame of their parks and castles:Versailles, whose palace and park recall the splendor of the Louis XIV. period, and where the “Trianons” have preserved graceful traces of the Court of Marie-Antoinette;St. Germainwith its castle and forest;St. Cloudand its park;Sèvresand its world-renowned art porcelain factory;La Malmaison, home of Bonaparte before he became Napoleon I.;Rambouillet,Fontainebleau,Chartreswith its marvelous cathedral,Maintenon,Dreux, etc.—all these form a girdle round Paris such as no other metropolis in the world can boast of.

BEAUTIFUL FRANCE

Paris and its environs

PARIS—home of grandeur, elegance, and wit—plays a part in France probably unequalled in any other country, and may be considered, in many respects, as the chief city of Europe, and one of the greatest in the world. Above all, it possesses eminently national qualities which ten centuries of refinement and taste have handed down to contemporary France.

It is impossible, in a few lines, to paint the exceptional charms of Paris which the whole world admires.

Its vistas of the Champs-Elysées seen from the Tuileries and the Arc de Triomphe; of Notre-Dame and the point of the City Island seen from La Concorde Bridge; of the River Seine, the Institute, the Louvre, seen from the Pont-Neuf embankment; Notre-Dame and its quays, seen from the end of St. Louis Island; the panorama of the city seen from the top of Montmartre Hill; the Avenue du Bois de Boulogne and the Bois de Boulogne itself, etc., etc.,—all are of incomparable beauty.

The city’s historical monuments are of inestimable value, and the most famous art treasures are to be found in its Museums.

The surroundings of Paris join the charm of their landscapes to the world-wide fame of their parks and castles:Versailles, whose palace and park recall the splendor of the Louis XIV. period, and where the “Trianons” have preserved graceful traces of the Court of Marie-Antoinette;St. Germainwith its castle and forest;St. Cloudand its park;Sèvresand its world-renowned art porcelain factory;La Malmaison, home of Bonaparte before he became Napoleon I.;Rambouillet,Fontainebleau,Chartreswith its marvelous cathedral,Maintenon,Dreux, etc.—all these form a girdle round Paris such as no other metropolis in the world can boast of.

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