FISMES.

PERNANT CASTLE.In the ravine which it overlooks furious fighting took place.

PERNANT CASTLE.In the ravine which it overlooks furious fighting took place.

PERNANT CASTLE.

In the ravine which it overlooks furious fighting took place.

SHELTERS ALONG THE N. 31 BETWEEN PERNANT AND SOISSONS.Behind is the Aisne Valley.

SHELTERS ALONG THE N. 31 BETWEEN PERNANT AND SOISSONS.Behind is the Aisne Valley.

SHELTERS ALONG THE N. 31 BETWEEN PERNANT AND SOISSONS.

Behind is the Aisne Valley.

cross the railway (level-crossing), then turn to the left towards the Church.The ancient turreted Castle, which now serves as Town-Hall and School, is above the church, on the right.)

Retracing his steps for a short distance, the tourist should take I. C. 44 on the left, which leads up to the plateau.Fierce fighting took place here, as attest the wire entanglements, trenches, etc.On reaching N. 2, turn into it on the left.The run down from here toSoissonsis very fine.Enter Soissons by the Rue du Faubourg St. Christophe.

MERCIN CHURCH IN RUINS.

MERCIN CHURCH IN RUINS.

MERCIN CHURCH IN RUINS.

MAP OF THE OPERATIONS FROM CHAUDUN TO SOISSONS.The roads indicated by two continuous lines are to be followed by the tourist.

MAP OF THE OPERATIONS FROM CHAUDUN TO SOISSONS.The roads indicated by two continuous lines are to be followed by the tourist.

MAP OF THE OPERATIONS FROM CHAUDUN TO SOISSONS.

The roads indicated by two continuous lines are to be followed by the tourist.

Throughout the region which the tourist has just visited (Chaudun to Soissons), the battle raged without respite from May 29 to July 18, 1918. While, on May 29 and 30, the French were hanging on to the western outskirts of Soissons, outflanked by the armies of Von François and Von Larisch, the German 6th Active and 6th Reserves captured Vierzy and Chaudun on the 30th. On June 1, French counter-attacks forced the enemy to retire. After changing hands several times and much furious fighting, Chaudun and Vierzy remained in the hands of the French. On the 3rd, the enemy engaged all available reserves (three fresh divisions) in a powerful attack between the Aisne and the Ourcq. Progressing beyond Missy-aux-Bois and La Croix-de-Fer they reached the line extending northwards from Dommiers to west of Pernant. On June 12 and 13, they again attacked in the direction of the Villers-Cotterets Wood reaching the Laversine—Cœuvres—St. Pierre-Aigle line. Stiff fighting continued along this line until the end of June, the French retaking Cœuvres on the 15th, Laversine on the 28th, and St. Pierre-Aigle on July 2.

On July 18, the Franco-American forces (1st and 2nd American Divisions), under General Mangin, began their counter-offensive, which liberated the entire region as far as east of Pernant, including Missy-aux-Bois, Chaudun, and Vierzy. The latter village, which had been lost in the evening, was promptly re-taken by the Americans (2nd Division) after furious combats.

From the 19th to the 21st the enemy offered desperate resistance to the south-west of Soissons. Engaging three fresh divisions, and after numerous counter-attacks, they succeeded in advancing to the east of Chaudun. Their success was short-lived, however, as on the 21st, General Mangin’s army broke down their resistance and reached the road from Soissons to Oulchy (N. 37).

Via Laffaux, Fismes and Château-Thierry.

(To visit Soissons, see the Michelin Illustrated Guide: “Soissons before and during the War.”)

The itineraries of the first two days will have taken the tourist to the extreme points reached by the German advance, and where the victorious Franco-American counter-offensive of July 18 developed along the western side of the Château-Thierry salient.

The itinerary for the third day will first lead the tourist to theChemin-des-Dames, where the German attack of May 27, 1918, which made the salient, began. The return journey passes through those parts of the battlefield to the north-east of Château-Thierry which marked the pursuit of the Germans by the Americans.

COMMUNICATING TRENCH IN ONE OF THE STREETS OF CROUY IN 1916.At the back stands the Church.(Compare with photo on next page taken in 1919.)

COMMUNICATING TRENCH IN ONE OF THE STREETS OF CROUY IN 1916.At the back stands the Church.(Compare with photo on next page taken in 1919.)

COMMUNICATING TRENCH IN ONE OF THE STREETS OF CROUY IN 1916.

At the back stands the Church.

(Compare with photo on next page taken in 1919.)

On leaving Soissons, cross the bridge over the Aisne, then take the Avenue de Laon and N. 2. AfterSt. Paul,pass under the railway, then over the level-crossing before coming toCrouy, which suffered severely from the bombardment. The church is on the left, near the small river.

On leaving the village, the road rises towards Crouy Plateau, passing between numerous military organizations and shelters in the hill-sides.

REMAINS OF CROUY CHURCH. (See photo (1916) on previous page.)

REMAINS OF CROUY CHURCH. (See photo (1916) on previous page.)

REMAINS OF CROUY CHURCH. (See photo (1916) on previous page.)

From the top of the hill the devastated Perrière Farm is visible on the left. There is a French cemetery opposite, on the right of the road.

A trench, since filled in, ran the whole length of the road.

Cross the ruinsof Pont Rouge Works. Numerous barbed wire entanglements stretch across the road.About 100 yards before “milestone” 79, and rather more than half-a-mile before Laffaux Mill, near a number of French graves,take the road on the left, which leads to the ruins of the village ofLaffaux. The bombardment here was terrible, as the countless shell craters attest. Of the houses, only heaps of stones and débris remain. The ruins of the church are seen in profile above the ravine.

RUINS OF PERRIÈRE FARM.(On the left of N. 2, beyond Jouy, going towards Laon.)

RUINS OF PERRIÈRE FARM.(On the left of N. 2, beyond Jouy, going towards Laon.)

RUINS OF PERRIÈRE FARM.

(On the left of N. 2, beyond Jouy, going towards Laon.)

The numerous quarries below the village were utilized as defences. A road which passes below the church leads there.The tourist should return to the main road, either by retracing his steps, or by continuingstraight ahead, turning to the right and coming out, rather less than a mile further on, at the crossing where stoodLaffaux Mill. The latter road is very rough. In May, 1919, corpses were still to be seen in some of the shell holes.Laffaux Millstood on the right of the crossing in the National Highway, at the junction of the rough roads leading to Laffaux and Pinon.

LAFFAUX CHURCH!Below in the hillside are the organized caverns seen in the photo below.

LAFFAUX CHURCH!Below in the hillside are the organized caverns seen in the photo below.

LAFFAUX CHURCH!

Below in the hillside are the organized caverns seen in the photo below.

Continue along the National Road slightly beyond“Guardian Angel Farm.”

On the right will be seen the beginning of the Chemin-des-Dames (see p. 101).Return to the farm, then turn to the left into G. C. 14 towardsJouy.

CAVERNS WHICH SHELTERED THE TROOPS DEFENDING LAFFAUX PLATEAU.

CAVERNS WHICH SHELTERED THE TROOPS DEFENDING LAFFAUX PLATEAU.

CAVERNS WHICH SHELTERED THE TROOPS DEFENDING LAFFAUX PLATEAU.

THIS WAS FORMERLY LAFFAUX MILL.

THIS WAS FORMERLY LAFFAUX MILL.

THIS WAS FORMERLY LAFFAUX MILL.

“POILUS” IN THE RUINS OF “GUARDIAN ANGEL” FARM.

“POILUS” IN THE RUINS OF “GUARDIAN ANGEL” FARM.

“POILUS” IN THE RUINS OF “GUARDIAN ANGEL” FARM.

THE SOISSONS-LAON ROAD (N. 2) NEAR GUARDIAN ANGEL FARM.

THE SOISSONS-LAON ROAD (N. 2) NEAR GUARDIAN ANGEL FARM.

THE SOISSONS-LAON ROAD (N. 2) NEAR GUARDIAN ANGEL FARM.

THE CHEMIN-DES-DAMES (100 YARDS TO THE RIGHT OF N. 2).In the foreground:Remains of a corpse (1919).

THE CHEMIN-DES-DAMES (100 YARDS TO THE RIGHT OF N. 2).In the foreground:Remains of a corpse (1919).

THE CHEMIN-DES-DAMES (100 YARDS TO THE RIGHT OF N. 2).

In the foreground:Remains of a corpse (1919).

SHELTER ON THE JOUY ROAD.Overhead, traces of the camouflaging are still visible.

SHELTER ON THE JOUY ROAD.Overhead, traces of the camouflaging are still visible.

SHELTER ON THE JOUY ROAD.

Overhead, traces of the camouflaging are still visible.

PANORAMA OF THE CHEMIN-DES-DAMES SEEN FROM THE JOUY ROAD.The “Chemin” follows the crest of the high ground on the horizon.

PANORAMA OF THE CHEMIN-DES-DAMES SEEN FROM THE JOUY ROAD.The “Chemin” follows the crest of the high ground on the horizon.

PANORAMA OF THE CHEMIN-DES-DAMES SEEN FROM THE JOUY ROAD.

The “Chemin” follows the crest of the high ground on the horizon.

Cross the plateau, then begin the descent into the valley of the Aisne. Very fine panorama of the Chemin-des-Dames. The view above was taken rather more than a mile from Aizy, before coming toJouy. The graves in the foreground of the photograph have since been carried away by a landslide into the ravine. The photograph on p. 101 shows some of the numerous shelters which were made along this road.

VAILLY CHURCH.

VAILLY CHURCH.

VAILLY CHURCH.

Leave the village of Aizy on the left.The road continues to descend into the valley of the Aisne.On reachingVailly,take the first street to the left towards the church, and in front of the latter, turn to the right.One hundred yards further on, turn to the left towards Chavonne, then take the first road to the right (G. C. 10) and follow the river.

REVILLON CHURCH.

REVILLON CHURCH.

REVILLON CHURCH.

GLENNES CHURCH.

GLENNES CHURCH.

GLENNES CHURCH.

There are trenches all along the right of the road.Pass throughChavonne, whose destroyed bridge has not yet been rebuilt.On the left, numerous military organizations. Traces of the “camouflaging” used hereabout to hide the road are still visible.Follow the railings of theSoupir Park,along whichtrenches were made. These railings were also camouflaged.Cross the Aisne-and-Oise Canal, and pass throughBourgandComin.

The quarries on the high ground to the left, before reachingŒuilly, were organized militarily.After thechurch,turn to the right towards the temporary bridge. Cross the river, then the canal. After thedistillery,turn to the left, then take the first road on the right toRévillon.

INTERIOR OF GLENNES CHURCH.

INTERIOR OF GLENNES CHURCH.

INTERIOR OF GLENNES CHURCH.

DISTRIBUTING RATIONS TO AMERICAN SOLDIERS ON THE ROAD TO FISMETTES.

DISTRIBUTING RATIONS TO AMERICAN SOLDIERS ON THE ROAD TO FISMETTES.

DISTRIBUTING RATIONS TO AMERICAN SOLDIERS ON THE ROAD TO FISMETTES.

Go straight on toGlennes. These two villages were captured by the Americans on September 6.

After visitingGlennes,return to Révillon.Leaving the village behind, cross the stream, and before reaching theCastle,turn to the left (G. C. 21), then 300 yards further on, to the left again. Go straight ahead, cross the stream, then turn to the right at the fork reached soon afterwards.

Pass throughMerval, whose factory was entirely destroyed. The road, which was here camouflaged, descends towards the Valley of the Vesle. Pretty view.EnterFismettes,then cross the Vesle by the temporary bridge.

RUINS OF FISMES SEEN FROM THE TEMPORARY BRIDGE OVER THE VESLE WHICH CONNECTS THAT VILLAGE UP WITH FISMETTES.To the left of this bridge are the ruins of the old stone bridge.

RUINS OF FISMES SEEN FROM THE TEMPORARY BRIDGE OVER THE VESLE WHICH CONNECTS THAT VILLAGE UP WITH FISMETTES.To the left of this bridge are the ruins of the old stone bridge.

RUINS OF FISMES SEEN FROM THE TEMPORARY BRIDGE OVER THE VESLE WHICH CONNECTS THAT VILLAGE UP WITH FISMETTES.

To the left of this bridge are the ruins of the old stone bridge.

TEMPORARY BRIDGE OVER THE VESLE, “CAMOUFLAGED” DURING THE OPERATIONS.

TEMPORARY BRIDGE OVER THE VESLE, “CAMOUFLAGED” DURING THE OPERATIONS.

TEMPORARY BRIDGE OVER THE VESLE, “CAMOUFLAGED” DURING THE OPERATIONS.

Pass over the level-crossing, then climb straight up to the town ofFismes,crossing on the leftthe avenues, whose trees have been cut to pieces by the shells. At one corner of the Square, where the tourist comes out, is the Town Hall in ruins.

To get a good view of the ruins of the Hôtel-Dieu Hospital,take the Rue de l’Hospice, on the right of the Square, which leads straight there. This hospital was founded at the beginning of the 15th century. Only the façade remains, the remainder of the buildings having been destroyed by the bombardments.

Take on the left, the street which passes in front of theHôtel-de-Ville,and which crosses, on the left, the Avenue in which thechurchstands. Built in the 11th, 13th, and 16th centuries, this church is remarkable for its Roman apsis. Inside are two statues of St. Macre, one Middle-Age, the other 17th or 18th century.

The Cemetery, on one side of which several hundred Americans were buried, is on the right of the road to Rheims, beyond the Avenue.To go there, take the last street on the right(Rue du Point du Jour).

HÔTEL-DE-VILLE SQUARE IN AUGUST, 1918.

HÔTEL-DE-VILLE SQUARE IN AUGUST, 1918.

HÔTEL-DE-VILLE SQUARE IN AUGUST, 1918.

TOWN HALL OF FISMES.

TOWN HALL OF FISMES.

TOWN HALL OF FISMES.

APSIS AND TOWER OF FISMES CHURCH SEEN FROM THE RAMPARTS IN 1914.

APSIS AND TOWER OF FISMES CHURCH SEEN FROM THE RAMPARTS IN 1914.

APSIS AND TOWER OF FISMES CHURCH SEEN FROM THE RAMPARTS IN 1914.

FRONT AND TOWER OF ABOVE CHURCH IN 1918, AS SEEN FROM THE PLACE DE L’EGLISE.

FRONT AND TOWER OF ABOVE CHURCH IN 1918, AS SEEN FROM THE PLACE DE L’EGLISE.

FRONT AND TOWER OF ABOVE CHURCH IN 1918, AS SEEN FROM THE PLACE DE L’EGLISE.

THE OLD RAMPARTS OF FISMES SEEN FROM BELOW THE PLACE DE L’EGLISE.

THE OLD RAMPARTS OF FISMES SEEN FROM BELOW THE PLACE DE L’EGLISE.

THE OLD RAMPARTS OF FISMES SEEN FROM BELOW THE PLACE DE L’EGLISE.

Origin and Chief Historical Events.

Fismes is one of the oldest towns in France. Cæsar refers to it in his Commentaries on the War of the Gauls. St. Macre suffered martyrdom there. In 1226 the town became a Commune. Sacked in 1814 by the Prussians, its Communal Seal—well-known to archæologists—disappeared. To-day it is in one of the museums of Berlin. The town was fortified at an early date. Of the old ramparts, transformed later into avenues, four gates still exist. It was customary for the Kings of France to stay over-night at Fismes, when on their way to Rheims to be crowned. In 1814, on the eve of invasion, Napoleon I. called the nation to arms at Fismes.

The Germans occupied the town on September 2, 1914, as the last French columns were withdrawing along the road to Epernay. The Mayor and several town councillors were taken as hostages. Meanwhile, the Kommandant Von Kron ordered eight beds to be prepared in one of the rooms of the Hôtel-de-Ville, and dinner for ten officers; 400 bottles of wine, four oxen and 400 bundles of straw were requisitioned for three o’clock next morning.

During the night, the soldiers pillaged the shops and wine cellars. The next day, the Germans requisitioned one ton of lard or bacon, one ton of coffee and tobacco, 35 tons of bread, and 40 tons of oats. To meet these requirements, the town was forced to apply to the neighbouring communes. The German authorities took measures to protect the houses which were inhabited, but allowed the others to be plundered. The Municipality was ordered to repair the bridge of Fismettes, which had been destroyed by the French engineers, under a penalty of a million francs if the work were not finished in two days. Early in the morning of September 11, the German authorities left the town, which the French were approaching. At about seven o’clock in the evening, the 45th French line regiment entered the town. On the 12th, after an artillery duel which did great damage, the French carried the level-crossing at Fismettes, which had been barricaded by the Germans, together with the railway station and neighbouring houses. They were held up by enemy fire for a short while in front of the bridge, and were obliged to carry the hat factory at the point of the bayonet. Passing over to the north side of the river, the Zouaves of the 1st regiment, with the help of the 45th line regiment, captured the heights which command the town.

THE GRAND’ PLACE OF BAZOCHES.The ruined Church is seen at the back.

THE GRAND’ PLACE OF BAZOCHES.The ruined Church is seen at the back.

THE GRAND’ PLACE OF BAZOCHES.

The ruined Church is seen at the back.

The town was again occupied by the Germans on May 28, 1918, after stiff fighting.

On May 27, 1918, the first day of their great offensive, the Germans reached the Vesle at about 7.30 in the evening, on both sides of Fismes. At one in the morning, on the 28th, the Germans crossed the Vesle, outflanking the town on the west. Other enemy troops, who only forced the passage of the river towards noon, were supported on their left and progressed dangerously. A frontal attack forced the French, who were defending Fismes, to retire, in order to avoid being surrounded.

Fismes was delivered on August 4 and 5 by the Americans (3rd Corps), who had reached the outskirts of the town on the evening of the previous day. On the 4th, street by street, at the bayonet’s point, they captured the town. From the 6th to the 10th the fighting continued to be extremely violent along the river, and in front of Fismettes. On the 6th American units crossed the Vesle near Fismettes, but on the 8th and 9th the Germans counter-attacked vigorously to the east of Fismes and before Fismettes. After breaking down the German resistance, the Americans occupied Fismettes definitely on the 10th. On the following days, especially on the 12th and 28th, furious counter-attacks by the Germans failed to retake Fismettes.

The offensive by General Mangin’s army against the tablelands to the north-east of Soissons, from August 30, made itself felt along the Vesle front. Fearing to be outflanked, and in order to shorten his front, the enemy abandoned the heights overlooking the river, and retreated to the Aisne during the night of September 3-4. On the 4th, Franco-American troops crossed the Vesle along an eighteen-mile front, advancing on an average about two and a half miles to the north. On the 5th they reached the Aisne.

After visiting Fismes, if the tourist desires to go toRheims,he should continue in the direction taken to go to the cemetery, following N. 31.

To continue the itinerary of theAmerican battle,return to the Hôtel-de-Ville and follow N. 31 towards Bazoches.Cross the railway (level-crossing), the river in the middle of the marshes, then the bridge over the railway. The bombardment did great damage here. On arriving atBazoches,take the road which branches off N. 31 and leads to the village. The walls of the cemetery on the left are in ruins. By the side of the cemetery are the graves of the American soldiers who fell in the vicinity.

BAZOCHES CHURCH.

BAZOCHES CHURCH.

BAZOCHES CHURCH.

Bazochesis one of the most ancient country towns in the Department of the Aisne. It is held by some to have had its origin in the public granaries built there by the Romans after their conquest of Gaul. Several martyrdoms took place there.

GENERAL VIEW OF BAZOCHES.The N. 31 road which the tourist has just left runs at the foot of the hill.

GENERAL VIEW OF BAZOCHES.The N. 31 road which the tourist has just left runs at the foot of the hill.

GENERAL VIEW OF BAZOCHES.

The N. 31 road which the tourist has just left runs at the foot of the hill.

BAZOCHES CHÂTEAU IN 1914.

BAZOCHES CHÂTEAU IN 1914.

BAZOCHES CHÂTEAU IN 1914.

Situated on the railway from Soissons to Rheims, and connected by branch lines with the railway from Paris to Châlons,viaChâteau-Thierry and Epernay, and the lines radiating from Villers-Cotterets towards Paris, the important position of Bazoches was hotly disputed during the fighting from May to August, 1918.

The Americans co-operated actively in its re-capture in August, 1918. On August 7 they crossed the Vesle to the east of the town, under particularly difficult conditions. The river and its banks literally bristled with wire entanglements, and were swept by deadly machine-gun and artillery fire, but the Americans got across nevertheless.

The itinerary passes in front of the Church of St. Peter (12th and 13th centuries).

Leaving the church on the right, the Square from which the above photograph was taken,is reached. View on the left of the remains of the 12th century Castle, which now serves as a farm. It is flanked by a tower at each of its four corners and in the middle of each side. The great moat which surrounded the central portion of the building was protected by a wall (practically intact on the south-west) flanked by twenty-two round towers. Several of the latter are still standing.

BAZOCHES CASTLE IN 1918.

BAZOCHES CASTLE IN 1918.

BAZOCHES CASTLE IN 1918.

ALL THAT REMAINED OF MONT-NOTRE-DAME CHURCH IN 1918.Compare with photo below, taking as a guide the two trees.

ALL THAT REMAINED OF MONT-NOTRE-DAME CHURCH IN 1918.Compare with photo below, taking as a guide the two trees.

ALL THAT REMAINED OF MONT-NOTRE-DAME CHURCH IN 1918.

Compare with photo below, taking as a guide the two trees.

Continue along the road, turn to the left, cross the railway (level-crossing), then the river; take the first road on the right (I. C. 33) towardsMont-Notre-Dame, and follow the valley of the Vesle.

This river, which rises in the Department of the Marne, flows from east to west, entering the Department of the Aisne to the north of Bazoches. According to tradition it owes its existence and name to a Queen of the Belgians.

Pass under, then over the railway, and enter the village ofMont-Notre-Dame.

The village is very ancient, and was no doubt first built on the top of the plateau, at the foot of which it now stands. From 589 to 985A.D.six Councils of Prelates were held there, and in the 11th century two Synods.

MONT-NOTRE-DAME CHURCH IN 1914.See photo above.

MONT-NOTRE-DAME CHURCH IN 1914.See photo above.

MONT-NOTRE-DAME CHURCH IN 1914.

See photo above.

ANOTHER VIEW OF THE RUINS OF MONT-NOTRE-DAME CHURCH IN 1918.Compare with photo below.

ANOTHER VIEW OF THE RUINS OF MONT-NOTRE-DAME CHURCH IN 1918.Compare with photo below.

ANOTHER VIEW OF THE RUINS OF MONT-NOTRE-DAME CHURCH IN 1918.

Compare with photo below.

Mont-Notre-Dame, an isolated hill, sugar-loaf in shape, dominates all the surrounding country. It formed an excellent position for the artillery during the fighting in this region and was used by both sides.

In the village turn to the left and skirt the hill, then take the steep rise on the right, which leads to the top. On the right, caverns are visible in the hill-sides. The church, now a mere heap of stones, is next reached. The cemetery is behind.

According to tradition this church (historical monument) was founded in the 9th century. It was rebuilt in the 12th and 13th centuries.

Only part of the vast original edifice (similar in style to the Cathedral of Soissons) was retained when the church was rebuilt. In 1650, when the Spanish occupied the surrounding country, the peasants took refuge in the towers of the church. They were discovered, and the church set on fire, most of the peasants being burnt alive.

MONT-NOTRE-DAME CHURCH IN 1914 SEEN FROM THE CEMETERY.Compare with photo above.

MONT-NOTRE-DAME CHURCH IN 1914 SEEN FROM THE CEMETERY.Compare with photo above.

MONT-NOTRE-DAME CHURCH IN 1914 SEEN FROM THE CEMETERY.

Compare with photo above.

RUINS OF THE CASTLE AT MONT-NOTRE-DAME IN 1918.

RUINS OF THE CASTLE AT MONT-NOTRE-DAME IN 1918.

RUINS OF THE CASTLE AT MONT-NOTRE-DAME IN 1918.

The ruins of the 18th century château, destroyed by the bombardments, stand on the left of the church. The entrance-gates, enclosure wall, and an isolated outbuilding are all that the bombardments have spared. Inside the park a heap of débris and stones marks the spot where the castle stood.

The castle was protected by a fortress with massive towers and donjon, which was destroyed and rebuilt several times.

From the top of the hillfine panorama of the valley of the Vesle to the north. There was much severe fighting on its banks throughout the War.

At the bottom of the hill turn to the right and follow the uphill road G. C. 14 toChéry-Chartreuve.

To visit the church keep to the left of the village, and climb on foot the small hill, on which the church stands.To visit theAmerican Cemetery (about three-quarters of a mile from the village)follow G. C. 21 in the same direction.

Return to Chéry-Chartreuve and continue along G. C. 14 toDravegny,passing straight through.

CEMETERY IN CHÉRY-CHARTREUVE VILLAGE. AMERICAN AND FRENCH GRAVES SIDE BY SIDE.

CEMETERY IN CHÉRY-CHARTREUVE VILLAGE. AMERICAN AND FRENCH GRAVES SIDE BY SIDE.

CEMETERY IN CHÉRY-CHARTREUVE VILLAGE. AMERICAN AND FRENCH GRAVES SIDE BY SIDE.

INTERIOR OF CHURCH AT CHÉRY-CHARTREUVE.

INTERIOR OF CHURCH AT CHÉRY-CHARTREUVE.

INTERIOR OF CHURCH AT CHÉRY-CHARTREUVE.

AMERICAN ARTILLERYMEN NEAR CHÉRY-CHARTREUVE.

AMERICAN ARTILLERYMEN NEAR CHÉRY-CHARTREUVE.

AMERICAN ARTILLERYMEN NEAR CHÉRY-CHARTREUVE.

AMERICAN TROOPS PASSING THROUGH DRAVIGNY VILLAGE.

AMERICAN TROOPS PASSING THROUGH DRAVIGNY VILLAGE.

AMERICAN TROOPS PASSING THROUGH DRAVIGNY VILLAGE.

COULONGES VILLAGE.

COULONGES VILLAGE.

COULONGES VILLAGE.

Fine run down toCohan.Turn to the right in front of thechurch,then to the left, to cross the river, and afterwards to the right towardsCoulonges.

This village existed at the time of the Roman invasion. In 1838 the foundations of Gallo-Roman houses and various objects belonging to the same period were discovered in the court-yard of the notary’s house. The Americans captured the village on August 2.

On leaving Coulonges turn to the right and cross the river. At the following fork, if not pressed for time, visit theCastle of Nesle (2-1/2 miles); the American Cemetery at Seringes (3-1/2 miles); and the village and castle of Fère-en-Tardenois (5-1/2 miles). To this end takethe G. C. 2 on the right toNesles.The road leading to the castle (on the right) is rough.

Portions of the castle are well preserved, including the enclosure walls, flanked by six towers 60 feet high. The door opening on the northern curtain is protected by two similar towers. The donjon, now in ruins, was 100 feet high.

The castle was built about the year 1230 by Robert de Dreux, Count of Braime. Pierre de Rieux, Marshal of France, was imprisoned there by Guillaume de Flavy in the 15th century, and murdered by his jailer.

DONJON AND ENTRANCE TO NESLES CASTLE.

DONJON AND ENTRANCE TO NESLES CASTLE.

DONJON AND ENTRANCE TO NESLES CASTLE.

NESLES CASTLE SEEN FROM THE TOP OF THE DONJON.

NESLES CASTLE SEEN FROM THE TOP OF THE DONJON.

NESLES CASTLE SEEN FROM THE TOP OF THE DONJON.

Guillaume de Flavy, who was notorious for his ferocious cruelty, turned the castle into a stronghold for his mercenaries. It was he who delivered Joan of Arc to the Burgundians at Compiègne, of which town he was governor.

The castle was captured by the Americans after three days’ fighting (July 28 to 31, 1918).

Continue towardsSeringes.On the right of the road, rather more than a mile afterNesles, there is an American Cemetery.

The village, which is slightly to the north of the road, was taken by the Americans on July 31, 1918. Early in the morning of August 1 the Germans retook it during a counter-attack, only to lose it again. In this region the Americans encountered two picked German Divisions (4th Guards and 6th Bavarians), beating them soundly.

AMERICAN CEMETERY AT SERINGES.

AMERICAN CEMETERY AT SERINGES.

AMERICAN CEMETERY AT SERINGES.

FÈRE-EN-TARDENOIS CHURCH.

FÈRE-EN-TARDENOIS CHURCH.

FÈRE-EN-TARDENOIS CHURCH.

Fère-en-Tardenois, which is reached shortly afterwards, is very ancient, although tradition, according to which it was the “Fara” given by Clovis to St. Genevieve, and by the latter to St. Remi, is now generally admitted to be mythical.

On May 30, 1918, Fère was recaptured by the Germans, only to be reconquered by the Allies during their counter-offensive of July. Already on the 19th the French were within nine miles of the town, but on the following days the Germans made a determined stand in the outskirts. On the 25th the resistance of the enemy, who had been reinforced by a fresh division of Bavarian reserves, stiffened, but broke down on the 27th. The Germans were obliged to retreat, and the French occupied the town on the 28th.

On the 30th the enemy counter-attacked and retook the railway station to the north of the town, but on August 1, in spite of bitter resistance and the withering fire of countless machine-guns, the Allies continued to gain ground. In danger of being outflanked on the north-west, the Germans further retreated on August 2, which completely liberated the town.

In the village turn to the left to visit thechurch.

INTERIOR OF CHURCH AT FÈRE-EN-TARDENOIS.

INTERIOR OF CHURCH AT FÈRE-EN-TARDENOIS.

INTERIOR OF CHURCH AT FÈRE-EN-TARDENOIS.

THE MARKET-HALL AT FÈRE-EN-TARDENOIS IN 1917.

THE MARKET-HALL AT FÈRE-EN-TARDENOIS IN 1917.

THE MARKET-HALL AT FÈRE-EN-TARDENOIS IN 1917.

The church, which was destroyed during the Hundred Years’ War, was rebuilt in the 16th century—the nave at the beginning, the choir later, and the steeple in full Renaissance period.

In the left aisle there is a 17th century funeral monument, and in the right a carved churchwardens’ bench. The pulpit is adorned with carved figures of the Evangelists. The high altar with twisted columns is of gilt wood, and is surmounted by an “Adoration of the Wise Men” by Vignon (1643), flanked by a painting of St. Hubert and a portrait of Louis XIII. curing a sick person, when passing through Fère in May, 1635. The altar of painted wood, with its carved wooden screen, painted and gilded (1664), is on the left, and serves as a reliquary for the remains of Saint Macre, the Patron-Saint of La Fère. It was taken from the former Church of Courmont. In one of the last windows of the southern aisle was some 16th century stained-glass.

After visiting the church, turn to the right (looking towards it) into the“Grande Place,” which contains a stone fountain and the old Market Hall.

The round pillars and wooden posts of the Market Hall, which was finished in 1552, support the fine timber-work roof.

The latter was destroyed by shell-fire, but has been temporarily repaired (see photos above and below).

THE ABOVE MARKET HALL IN 1918.(Note the temporary pitch-paper roof.)

THE ABOVE MARKET HALL IN 1918.(Note the temporary pitch-paper roof.)

THE ABOVE MARKET HALL IN 1918.

(Note the temporary pitch-paper roof.)

THE GREAT BRIDGE OF FÈRE CASTLE.(See below).

THE GREAT BRIDGE OF FÈRE CASTLE.(See below).

THE GREAT BRIDGE OF FÈRE CASTLE.

(See below).

Cross the square, skirting the Market Hall, and turn to the left towards the castle.

To enter the castle, take the second road on the right, after the pond, and pass under the great bridge, which will bring the tourist out in front of the castle.

To visit theGreat Bridgeandthe ruins of the Feudal Castle,take the lane on the left of the latter.

Castle of Fère(Historical Monument).—This is one of the finest sights in the region. The present buildings include some of the ancient outbuildings (restored) and the fortress.

FÈRE CASTLE.

FÈRE CASTLE.

FÈRE CASTLE.

The castle was begun in 1206, by Robert de Dreux and Jean de Bretagne, on an eminence which was artificially isolated from the neighbouring hill.

ENTRANCE TO THE GALLERY LEADING TO THE RUINS OF THE FEUDAL CASTLE OF FÈRE.

ENTRANCE TO THE GALLERY LEADING TO THE RUINS OF THE FEUDAL CASTLE OF FÈRE.

ENTRANCE TO THE GALLERY LEADING TO THE RUINS OF THE FEUDAL CASTLE OF FÈRE.

Anne de Montmorency, to whom it was given in 1528 by François Ier, transformed it into an elegant and rich mansion.

Large bay-windows were made in the towers and curtains. The mediæval entrance was replaced by the present magnificent covered bridge, which measures approximately 200 feet in length, 11 feet in width, and 65 feet in height, and which was probably built by the famous Renaissance architect, Jean Bullant (photo, p. 120).

The portico at the entrance of the gallery is adorned with mutilated carvings, attributed by some to Jean Goujon.

The long vaulted entrance leads to an enclosure, around which are eight ruined towers. Seen from the outside, these towers are remarkable for their peculiar construction. The castle, which was falling into ruins, was pulled down by Louis-Philippe of Orleans.


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