By Major C. W. Gwynn, April, 1903.
A mixed Hamla—mules, donkeys and camels—was taken from Kirin to Kodok, April, 1903.
No rain had fallen, but more water was found in the neighbouring country than in previous years, so that conditions of water may be assumed normal for middle of dry season, but more favourable than usual for extreme end of dry season.
There was no recognised track, and no guides could be obtained from Kirin, nor would it have been possible to obtain Dinka guides to make the journey in the reverse direction.
The route followed is not necessarily the best, as probably deflections were made by guides owing to inter-village fighting or for other reasons.
By Major G. de H. Smith, February, 1904.
By Major G. de H. Smith, February, 1904.
By Major G. de H. Smith, March, 1904.
By Major G. de H. Smith, March, 1904.
By Captain H. H. Wilson, February to March, 1904.
Note.—The route described in this report, after crossing the Baro at 52½ miles from Gore, follows the left bank of that river as far as Itang, thence the right bank to Nasser, thence the left bank of the Sobat to Abwong. From Gambela, 64½ miles from Gore, the best track westwards lies along the right bank. There is no difficulty in travelling by this route during the driest season,i.e., February to May. Practically no supplies can be relied on.
(Compiled by the Editor.)
By Captain Dugmore, 1901.
Country.Near Gondokoro the country is perfectly flat and 30 feet above the river, covered with borassus palm near the station, sidr, sunt, and a few tamarinds and sycamore. Due E. lie the hills of Belinian (about 11 hours’ march). The surface soil is sandy and the sub-soil clay. There are many very fertile islands in the Nile covered with cane-like reed, very like papyrus. Natives prefer to live on and cultivate these islands, as they are not subject to white ants, grasshoppers, caterpillars, and blight, with all of which cultivation has to contend on the mainland. Flocks of small birds do great damage to grain crops. At high Nile these islands are subject to inundation; the natives then go over to the mainland.
The station now occupied at Gondokoro occupies the site of the old Egyptian post—a good many of the old trenches and parapets still exist. The old buildings, &c., have long ago fallen into the river, which is said to be twice (?) as wide now as it was in Baker’s time. Baker’s old camp (“Ismailia”) is in a swampy, low-lying piece of ground, about 2 miles N. of the old Egyptian station. Two date palms, 11 lemon trees, and two custard apple trees, still remain at Gondokoro.
Rain percolating and the river washing away cause continual falls of the bank.
Garrison.One company of Uganda Rifles (Sudanese), under a British Captain, Lieutenant, and Sergeant-Instructor. A small number of Police or Constabulary have been added, and are under the control of the Civil Authority, viz.: a Collector.
Supplies.At present nearly all stores, ammunition, and clothing, come from Mombasa, India, and England,viâKampala. Food is obtained by purchase from the natives.[46]
Natives grow red dura and maize chiefly, also a small amount of semsem, telabun, ful (ground nut), and lubia (small pea or bean). The ground nut does particularly well in the sandy soil. The sweet potato requires irrigation, and the natives do not take kindly to such laborious work.
Climate.The climate is fairly good, the rainy season at its commencement being the worst time of the year. Temperature:—
Seasons.Hot weather commences middle of November and lasts till end of March. Rains commence (or should do so) last week in March and last till middle of June, they commence again middle of July and last till middle of October.
The rains are erratic, there being sometimes a drought and sometimes too much rain.
Products.Dura, maize, semsem, ground nuts, beans, and fish. A small quantity of ivory. Salt from the left bank. Ostrich feathers from the Latuka. (N.B.—According to recent game regulations, it is forbidden to buy feathers unless it can be shown that they were pulled from a tame bird.)
Cattle.In the Nile province generally, the goats and sheep are small (much smaller than those of the Sudan), and have little to recommend them. The cattle (the few that are left) are also small, but are good milkers on the whole.
Game.Elephant, hippopotami and rhinoceros plentiful, especially the two former, a few zebras and giraffe, hartebeeste (? Jackson’s), waterbuck, bush buck, cobus Thomasi (Uganda cob), and dig-dig abound. Buffalo and warthog may be met with. Lion, leopard, and wild cat are fairly plentiful. (N.B.—During the dry weather months the game is found near the river in quantities; when the grass is high and there is water inland, it is not so easy to see much). Guinea fowl, greater and lesser bustard, quail snipe, ducks, geese, and other waterfowl and partridges are nearly always to be shot.
By Captain Dugmore, 1901.
Note.—See also report by Mr. F. Pordage, Public Works Department, Uganda, in Uganda Intelligence Report, No. 15; and Handbook of Uganda, pp. 52-57.
Note.—A small supply of food can usually be supplied at each of the above camps, with the exception of the Junction Camp. Water is obtainable at all camps. At many places fish can be bought. Trade goods are brass, wire, small white beads, candles, matches, bottles, and some cloth. Tarbushes are much appreciated by the chiefs. Hippo. abound in the Nile, and elephants between Nimule and Gondokoro. Lions are seen occasionally.
See also reports by Col. Coles, D.S.O., “Nimule to Gondokoro, and Gondokoro to Nimule,” in Uganda Intelligence Report, No. 19.
The following short account of the country between Nimule and Gondokoro is given by Sir C. Eliot (July, 1902), fromGeographical Journal, December, 1902:—
“Immediately after Nimule begin the rapids, which render the river unnavigable up to Bedden, about 30 miles above Gondokoro. This latter station and Nimule are connected by two roads, neither of them good. One keeps close to the Nile, and was impracticable when I made the journey, as it was under water owing to recent rains;[50]the other runs further inland. It cannot be said to offer adequate means for communicating between two Government stations, or for the transport of any sort of goods. For a great part of its course is obstructed by marshes, thorn bushes, or grass 6 feet high; but here and there it passes through pleasant open meadows, studded with large trees. Part of it consists of precipitous paths cut in the rock, and it is crossed by many rivers, at least three of which, the Assua, the Karpata (?), and the Kit (or Kiti), present serious obstacles to foot passengers when in flood, as I found them. The first is crossed on rafts made of ambach, a very light wood. The natives show considerable skill in guiding these rafts across the torrent, but the passenger or load is generally half submerged. The two other rivers have to be crossed by wading, and are about 4 feet deep. The Kit was about 150 yards wide. The whole journey took me 7 days, that is to say, 6 night camps. The distance is between 110 and 120 miles.”
(Compiled from Official Publications, &c.)
Plenty of notice must be given by the intending traveller, in order to secure the use of porters, boats, mules, and carts.
Nimule to Butiaba.From Nimule onwards the traveller can generally make use of Government boats. Between Nimule and Wadelai ([51]93 miles) the usual craft is a small steel rowing boat, and from Wadelai to Butiaba ([51]72 miles), (the Uganda Government Depôt on the E. shore of Lake Albert), a large steel boat which goes best under sail. The usual time occupied between Nimule and Butiaba is 10 to 12 days up stream, and 5 to 8 days down stream. A steam launch will shortly be placed on the river between these points.
Butiaba to Kampala.At Butiaba is a pier and landing stage. From ButiabaviâHoima to Kampala, 157 miles (telegraph), the road is fairly suitable for driving. The distance has been done in 4½ days, but the usual time taken is 8 days (driving) to 12 days (marching, with porters). The Stages are:—
Most of the main roads pass through Kampala.
Kampala to Entebbe.From Kampala to Entebbe, the capital, situated on the Victoria Nyanza, is 23 miles along a good cart road.
Entebbe to Port Florence.From Entebbe there is a fortnightly steamer across the lake to Kisumu, or Port Florence, the terminus of the railway to Mombasa. The crossing takes 2 to 3 days per steamer, and up to 10 or 15 days by sailing dhow.
Port Florence to Mombasa.From Port Florence to Mombasa there is a weekly train (or more)—fare, 109½ rupees; the distance, 584 miles, is traversed in about 2¼ days.
There is a monthly service from Mombasa, both by British India and by German steamers.
Recapitulation.
Record possible, Gondokoro to Mombasa: 25½ days.