Map
Map
Map
PartIII.ROUTES.
CHAPTERS I.andII.(Nil.)
(NORTH-EASTERN SUDAN.)
By Colonel Hon. M. G. Talbot, R.E., December, 1902.
General.The road described below is only one of several that might have been taken, but I believe it is perhaps the most direct. The portions between No. 6 and Murrat, and along the Wadi Alagi must be common to all routes.
Nature of road.There are no gradients on the road sufficiently steep to form a serious obstacle to laden camels, but there are a good many places after the Wadi Abu Bard is left, where the stony nature of the road is trying for the feet of plains camels, though the camels of the country seem to make nothing of it.
Water.Water is scarce and not always good. If marching with hamla,[1]arrangements should be made to carry at least two nights’ water.
Fuel and shade.Once the W. Telat Abda has been reached, fuel and shade can always be obtained with very little management. Till then there is practically no shade. No fuel between No. 6 and Murrat; a little between Murrat and W. Telat Abda.
Grain.No grain is obtainable. Sheep and goats and some milk can be obtained wherever Arabs are met with. The position of the Arabs and their flocks depends on the season of the year, and the distribution of the previous year’s rainfall.
Roads.There are two main routes between Suakin and Berber, both joining at Obak. The first,viâTambuk—Dissibil—Kokreb—Ariab and Obak, the most northerly of the two, is the usual caravan route. Major Prout (1877) states that “this route is quite practicable for wagons, the greater part of it being indeed an admirable road for wheels; some difficulty would, however, be found in getting wagons over the passes of Hareitri and Kokreb, and the dunes of Obak. At these three points some work, not much, but rather expensive, would have to be done to make the route a good wagon road.” The chief difficulty lies in the arid stretch of 114 miles between Ariab and Berber, for which Obak, lying about halfway, provides the only water.
The second route,viâSinkat—Hormareb—Amet—Rowaya and Obak is 5 or 6 miles shorter, but not so well known. It is occasionally used by caravans, but although the water supply is good, the road is bad about Sinkat.
Major W. S. Sparkes, October, 1897, and December and January, 1897-98.
SUMMARYofWELLSonNORTHERLY ROUTE.
The mileage is estimated by pace of camels, and there appears to be but little difference between the northerly and southerly routes; the Arabs, however, call the south road the longer.
Water supply is quite equal to that on north road, and all wells, being more or less deep sunk, do not get fouled by animals drinking direct from them, as is the case with surface wells, such as Dissibil, Hayaba, &c. These wells are also much more used by Arabs for watering their flocks than those on other track, and, without exception, they are surrounded by diruks, or earth-made drinking pans, which are scarce on other road.
A long rope and deluk, or native sort of bucket of thin hide, would be required at each well.
For movements of troops the north road is infinitely to be preferred, as going throughout is comparatively easy for all arms. On south road, numerous agabas, or passes over the hills, make going hard and difficult. The big agaba between Sinkat and Tamaneb is almost impossible for wheeled artillery.
By Major W. S. Sparkes, November, 1897.
Compiled in Intelligence Office, Khartoum, from Various Sketches and Reports, June, 1902.
This route is very difficult to map or describe so as to be of use to the traveller, as there are hardly half a dozen unmistakable objects along it by which he could identify his position.
As the Atbara dries up, it leaves a series of pools along its bed. Where the banks allow of these pools being approached by animals, the Arabs’ flocks are taken to water, and paths are beaten or cut through the bush leading to these meshras.
Guides.The ordinary Arab guide, even if he has been in the habit of travelling by this road for years, knows only a small number of these meshras,i.e., those most conveniently situated for the class of journey he has been in the habit of performing, and only one or two of the countless tracks. The only people who know all the small meshras off the road, and they perhaps over a limited portion of the river, are the Arabs (Hadendoas) who are grazing their flocks there. If the traveller, therefore, because he is marching with troops or for any other reason, wishes to use the less well-known meshras, he must depend on local inquiries and should, therefore, have with him men who speak Hadendoa.
Another great difficulty is the comparatively small number of men who know the names of any except the chief meshras. Consequently the average guide makes the names he knows extend over the whole length of the river. Where one ends, another begins. The Arabs grazing their flocks by the Atbara, on the other hand, will give you names for each little bit of the river, but these names are of little value, as no one else knows them.
Rest houses.There are rest houses at intervals of about 20 miles between Berber and Kassala.
Grazing.There is good grazing for camels practically the whole way.
Travellers.Persons travelling by themselves in the hot weather may find it best to march very early in the morning, halt at water, and march again near sunset, carrying enough water for the night-halt away from the river.
Supplies.No supplies of any sort are to be got along road, except perhaps milk and sheep.
Game.There is good fishing in the Atbara. Gazelle, bustard and ariel are seen along the route in localities, varying with the season. Wild asses are numerous north of Goz Regeb.
Inhabitants.Some Bisharin are met, and a good many nomad Hadendoas.