A CAPE HORN SWELL.
The consequence was that we waited. We now turned our attention to the heavy swells for which we had patiently waited, and found them nearly as represented, for they were immense, and to take a view of them from the cabin window at the stern of the ship required considerable nerve, as it really seemed, when the stern was away down in the trough between the great rollers, that nothing short of a miracle could raise the ship quick enough to prevent the hugh billows from rolling over her. We found, however, upon experimenting with a long rope on deck, by shaking it up and down from one end, that in a similar manner the great billows do not move forward upon the surface of the ocean, as they have every appearance of doing, to the utter destruction of every object whichthey come into contact with, but that they simply rise and fall. It is this continual rise and fall of the water on the surface of the ocean that gives it the appearance of rolling onward in the form of huge billows.
The traditions of the native Patagonians tell us that centuries ago a race of giants existed upon the extreme end of the South American continent; but whether that was their place of residence, or that they were there only upon a picnic excursion, is not definitely known. It unfortunately happened, however, that while there this great convulsion occurred, which separated the extreme end of the continent from the main land; and to their great astonishment, when aroused from their slumbers early one morning, they found themselves situated upon a high commanding eminence, at a distance from the main land, and entirely surrounded by water. To wade through the cold Southern sea to the main land again was out of the question, for they had come totally unprepared for such an emergency, having left their rubber boots at home. They were, however, giants, and knew their strength. Breaking the high mountain upon which they stood into fragments of suitable size they hurled them into the sea beyond, and using them for stepping-stones, regained the said continent without accident, or wetting a single foot. This is said to be the origin of those extreme Southern islands which they named Terra del Fuego.
The end of the continent was by this convulsion broken apart, and through this break the waters of the oceans found their way, forming a very convenient channel for small vessels to avoid the dangers of the Cape in passing from one ocean to the other. This channel was discovered by Magellan.
To the extreme southern point of the solid islands of rocks is given the name Cape Horn, around which it is difficult and dangerous to pass in consequence of the prevailing winds, which blow almost constantly from the west. It is at this point, also, that a good view is had of what is called the Magellan Cloud, not so named because Mr. Magellan first discovered it, but from the fact that the strait which he did discover, whether by accident or otherwise, is located immediately beneath it. At night, this cloud has the appearance of a mass of luminous vapor floating in space above, and such is its immense distance from our planet, that no telescope has as yet been constructed with power sufficient toenable our astronomers to determine its true character; or whether it is, as it appears, a mass of luminous vapor, or a cluster of celestial bodies like our own universe. Now, is it not possible that this is another universe similar to our own, located in distant space, and in company with thousands of other similar collections of celestial bodies which are scattered throughout infinite space, all moving in one general direction, and governed and controlled by the same ruling power? This is possible, and that each universe is separate and distinct from all others there is no doubt, and that to those who are dwelling upon the various planets of which they are composed, our own universe presents a similar appearance is very probable. In viewing these distant collections of celestial bodies in the firmament above, they may be very properly compared to swarms of gnats which we often witness sporting in the sunshine.
With a fair wind, we laid our course for the port of Callao, in Peru. A few days followed of fair wind which seemed to increase in violence as we proceeded, until it had assumed the proportions of a very respectable gale, termed in Nevada a “gentle zephyr.” It was during the continuance of this gale that a little incident occurred which may not be of much interest to seafaring men, and one of ordinary occurrence; but to those who do not go down upon the sea in ships it may be of some interest, since it illustrates the nature and character of the requisites of an able seaman and commander. During the gale, a block or shieve upon the end of the main yard was torn from its lashings, and fell upon the deck. The ship was luffed up into the wind: the great seas broke over the bows, and the mainsail threshed about in a terrible manner in its frantic efforts to free itself from its lashings, and to keep company with the gale. It was absolutely necessary that that block should again be placed and securely lashed upon the end of the yard, of which fact all the officers of the ship were well aware; but where was the sailor who had the courage to go out upon the end of that yard, when, as the ship rolled, the extreme end where the block was to be lashed was out of sight, became buried in the white foam of the huge billows? The Captain ordered no one to perform the dangerous duty, but asked the first mate, who was holding fast upon the rigging near, if any man would volunteer to do it? The mate, who was naturally of a modest and quiet disposition, raised his eyes aloft to the yard, then to the surging billows below, thought of his loved ones at home, and very modestly declined, with thanks. The second mate, a big, burly seaman, turned his port eye toward the chief mate, concluded that he had a level head, and concurred for similar reasons. Our Captain, finding that no one on board of the ship was willing to perform the dangerous duty, remarked that he should then be compelled to do it himself. Taking the huge block, slung to his shoulder, he mounted aloft out upon the yard, where he succeeded in lashing it securely in its place, although not without a great deal of trouble and danger. The ship swung off again before the gale, and all danger was past.
AN ABLE COMMANDER.
Arrival in Callao—The Relics of the Earthquake—The Frolic with the English Officers—Target Shooting—The Calm—Water Spouts—The Shark.
THE ship’s course was now directed towards the port of Callao, Peru, where we arrived about the 10th of August. We remained in this port about eight days, visiting in the meantime the beautiful city of Lima located at the foot of the mountains, a few miles inland, and a portion of the earth where a rain-storm is unknown.
We found that the chief and principal amusements here at this time consisted in cock and bull fighting; the grand arena, with its gorgeous trappings, being situated adjacent to and under the shadow of the principal cathedral of the city.
In the town of Callao we saw the ruins of the old city which was partially submerged by an earthquake in 1765, at which time a ship being at anchor in the harbor was carried by the returning tidal wave about five miles inland, where the old hull was deposited and could be plainly seen. At ebb tide, the tiled roofs of many old buildings can yet be seen upon the sandy beach; but the greater portion, however, of the submerged town lies in deep water, above which vessels in the harbor ride at anchor.
A little incident which occurred here in the city of Lima upon the day previous to our arrival, as we heard related is perhaps worth recording. Upon our arrival in the port of Callao, we found lying at anchor there, the U. S. sloop of war “St. Mary,” as well as the English man-of-war “Asia,” and an English sloop of war, the name of which I have forgotten. There was also in port a ship from Norfolk, Va., having on board as passengers about forty young men from Richmond and other Southern cities on their way to California. There was a feeling of jealousy existing among the English officers and these young Southern bloods in the city of Lima, from the fact that the latter seemed to attract more attention
THE ARGONAUTS AT LIMA.
from the ladies of Castilian blood. The English officers were determined to revenge themselves, and they endeavored to do it, and to further show their contempt for Americans generally in a despicable manner. The latter, upon one occasion, concluded to have a regular champagne dinner, and engaged for the purpose thelarge dining-room of the only American hotel in the city, which they arranged to occupy at 2P.M.of the day appointed. The English officers, to the number of thirty, having been informed of the intention of the Americans, found now their opportunity for revenge by taking possession of the dining-room at the appointed time, and locking the doors, thus interfering with the arrangements. Unfortunately for them, however, they had never fully understood the real nature of American pluck, as one of the English officers was afterwards ready and willing to admit.
At the appointed time the Americans met at the hotel, but only to find the doors to the dining-room locked and the room occupied by the English officers. After a short consultation, a tall, fine-looking specimen of one of the F. F. V’s knocked upon the door, demanding instant admission, but, of course, was refused. Two minutes was then allowed, and in case of refusal they were informed that the door would be broken in. “Do so, at your peril,” came from the inside; and almost instantly the door went in with a crash, and the tall Virginian, stepping inside to the head of the table, seized a bottle of wine and threw it with full force, striking the center of the table beyond, and bounding to the wall upon the opposite end of the room. At the same time, thirty or forty Americans, well prepared, filed in and took their stations behind the English officers, who leaped to their feet, and with their short swords flourishing above their heads demanded instant satisfaction for the insult. They were informed by the leader of the opposite party that it was the latter who demanded satisfaction, and that the former must instantly leave the room, or the Americans would enforce the demand. After some loud talking and threats from the leaders of both sides had been indulged in, a more quiet and subdued tone was used; mutual explanations followed; suitable apologies were given, and a general hand-shaking followed. Swords were sheathed, and fortunately the danger of a conflict was averted; seats, as well as an additional supply of champagne and other refreshments, were ordered. The Americans were very cordially invited to partake of the festivities, which invitation they accepted, and peace and harmony prevailed.
One effect of this incident, was a greater respect for the American people, or at least that portion of them who were at present in the harbor of Callao; for, upon the day following the incident,the passengers of the American ships were very cordially invited on board of H. M. ship of war the “Asia,” and were received in the most hospitable manner. Furthermore, through the influence of her commander, a few passengers of one of the American ships who were detected in the act of smuggling on shore a quantity of tobacco, were released upon promising to do so no more.
Going on shore one day, we found on the sandy beach three or four English officers who were practicing target-shooting. The target was a board twelve or fourteen inches square, and placed at a distance of one-hundred yards. They were practicing with the English sporting rifles, some of them being fixed up in a beautiful style and ornamented with silver. These rifles were fired from a rest, and with this advantage even, the target was hit but twice out of five shots. One of our boys remarked to them that he had an old U. S. musket on board of the ship, and offered to wager that he could put four balls out of five into the target, off hand. One of the Englishmen asserted that that was a huge joke “ye know”; but requested our passenger to bring it on shore and prove his assertion, which he proceeded to do. There was much merriment among them when he returned, bringing with him an old style Springfield rifle, or Jæger, as they were usually called; but when this youth, off-hand, put four balls out of five into the target, their merriment subsided, and in fact they were astonished. They asked many questions, and when informed that the U. S. army was armed with this sort of thing they marveled greatly, and desired permission to take it on board of H. M. ship of war for inspection, which they did, remarking upon its return that it was an ugly looking thing; but “by Jove, the way it shoots is simply marvelous, ye know!”
One of the officers asked the young man if all the U. S. soldiers were as expert with the use of the gun as he was, and he replied that he had just been expelled from the army for one year, in consequence of being the poorest shot in his regiment, which was Co. Y. of the 287th regiment of light infantry, stationed at Fortress Monroe; but that he was allowed one year for practice, and if at the expiration of that time he could do the regulation shot according to Scott’s Manual of Tactics, he would be re-admitted into the Army. When asked what the regulation shot was, he replied that every soldier was required to be able to put four balls out of five into afour-inch ring, off-hand, at a distance of half a mile when ordered, and no postponement on account of the weather.
“My hies,” was the only answer.
Having laid in a good supply of fruit, etc., we sailed out again upon the broad ocean toward the land of gold. From this port we cannot, however, take a direct course for California, in consequence of the irregularity of the winds along the coast. We are therefore compelled to test the maxim that the longest way around is in some cases the nearest way home, and for such reasons our good ship is headed in the direction of Japan until we reach longitude about 140° W., from which point upon the equator, in consequence of the prevailing winds, the course can be laid direct for the port of San Francisco.
One of the greatest pleasures of a long tedious sea voyage is in speaking with other ships, bound for different ports of the world, and when the condition of the sea and weather permits, it is usual to exchange courtesies by giving the latest news, the destination of your ship, and occasionally visiting each other. Many, of course, were the questions asked by the commanders of other ships upon seeing so many passengers on ship-board, in that portion of the sea, not having heard of the wonderful gold discovery. One commander, in particular, hailing from Valparaiso and bound for Cork, who had passed several ships loaded with passengers, very earnestly inquired if we Yankees were on our way to found a new empire somewhere among the islands of the Pacific ocean, or if we were only the rear guard of Alexander’s army searching for new worlds to conquer. We, however, satisfied his curiosity by informing him that we were neither one nor the other, but simply Pilgrims going in search of the new Jerusalem supposed to be somewhere in California.
We had now a fair wind until near the equator, where it then left us, and there fell a great calm upon the waters.
It is in these latitudes that the conditions are most favorable for the formation of the water-spout, for it is here where the winds are variable, and where dead calms of long duration are the rule, and nature’s forces find the breeding grounds for the marine cyclones—it is here that the germs of the Kansas cyclones are found, in their original purity, free from dust, old fence-rails, hay, or ox-carts; the upright columns being filled only with pure sea water, drawn up from the surface of the ocean. We saw many of them in all stagesof growth, from the newly-formed, which was just able to move along in an upright position, staggering and swaying from side to side like a child just learning to walk, up to the monster columns which possessed the power to elevate into the regions above anything with which it came in contact, from a clam-shell to a man-of-war. Five were seen in one day, and one of the largest of them seemed inclined to pay us a visit; but being aware of the fact, we made all necessary preparations to give it a warm reception. It changed its course, from an instinct of danger no doubt, which was the general opinion, from the fact that an old seaman declared positively that if you discharge a cannon-ball into this column of water, it will instantly burst, as the proper circulation is destroyed. For the same reasons also, as the veteran salt and able seaman declared, it was even possible sometimes to frighten one of them to death by running out of the port-hole a Quaker gun, and he said that he had seen several burst in that way. It was the most economical way, as it saved a lot of powder; but of course the rest of us old salts didn’t believe all he said about it.
We found that upon the occurrence of any event during the voyage, this old salt could refer to a similar event within his experience that would discount anything we had seen. For instance, during the calm he remarked that,
“This calm was nothing to what he experienced at a certain time on the coast of Chili.”
“Why,” said he, “the calm lasted nearly two months, the surface of the ocean became stagnant, turned green, and smelled like bilge water, and you could see dead fish of all kinds, and even dead whales floating about.”
During the gale which occurred upon the Atlantic also, he remarked:
“Oh, pshaw! this is nothing to what I have seen. Why, I was bound once up the Mediterranean Sea, when we encountered a gale that threw our ship upon her beam ends, and we laid in that position for nearly six weeks. It blew away our main-topmast, and the last we saw of it, ’twas going away south toward Africa; and maybe you won’t believe it, my lads, but five years afterwards ’twas found in the great desert partly buried in the sand, where it fell. The cross trees had sprouted, and a fine cluster of white oak trees had grown up from it, more than sixty feet high, and theymade a beautiful shade for the camels to rest under when they were cruising around the desert.”
THE PROLIFIC TOPMAST.
I have stated at this time that the conditions are favorable for water-spouts, as will be further explained. The formation of a water-spout is only possible when there exists a calm upon the waters, and in consequence of the heat of the sun being reflected from the smooth surface of the ocean, the atmosphere becomes greatly rarefied, and ascends to higher regions. The result is that at this point a partial vacuum is produced, and the atmosphere from all points rushes in to equalize the unbalanced condition. Ahollow cylinder is formed of atmospheric currents, which revolves with great velocity. A partial vacuum within this is the result, and up within which the water from the surface of the ocean rises, falling again in great showers of rain. But one great mystery attending not only the water-spout upon the ocean, but also the cyclone upon land, is the fact of their motion forward in any direction, for since they are only produced under conditions of a calm, it is difficult to determine by what force they are caused to move in any direction, with such velocity as is often witnessed. I observed that in a few cases, the smaller water-spouts did not move in any particular direction, but seemed to wander about as though undecided what course to take; while again another, but a few miles distant to the east, would be going in a northerly direction, and another one at the same time to the westward was taking a southerly course at the rate of three or four miles an hour.
That a water-spout should be able to move at all in any direction, during a dead calm upon the ocean, when at the same time our ship was as it were, stationary is not only a mystery, but also very aggravating to those who are from necessity compelled to remain on board of her and suffer the intense heat, and at the same time be at the mercy of these wandering, revolving tramps that are liable at any time to make you a visit without any special invitation, and without any power whatever on your part to avoid them.
The mystery of their forward movements lies in the fact that, at some point the atmosphere is more highly rarified than at others, and the water-spout will therefore move in the direction of the least resistance, being impelled forward towards that point by the atmosphere, the tendency of which is to restore the equilibrium. They will, consequently, move with a velocity corresponding to such unbalanced conditions to any given point.
Oh, the annoyance of a calm at sea, especially under such circumstances as when a crowd of anxious gold seekers are cooped up unable to do as, or go where they please, and all anxious to be filling their bottles and pouches from Uncle Sam’s golden fountains. Fretting and worrying could, however, avail nothing. We must gracefully submit to the inevitable, and pray for a strong breeze from the Southwest (the praying for which didn’t amount to much, for reasons not necessary to explain here). There was one amusement which we were inabled to enjoy to our heart’s content,
THE CALM.
in consequence of the calm and passive condition of Nature’s forces, and this was bathing in Neptune’s immense bath-tub, the Pacific Ocean. At all hours of the day, many would be seen enjoying the luxury of a bath in the warm and placid waters. The sensation of plunging headlong, or diving from the ship’s rail into the fathomless depths is, for the first time, anything but pleasant, for upon the shady side of our ship we could see below the surface a great distance. We found, upon throwing overboard an old tin plate, or any bright object, that we could keep it in sight for several minutes, until it had descended for the distance of one-eighth of a mile at least, or even much further. With this idea in mind, when standing upon the rail, all ready for a dive into this dark and bottomless abyss, one can readily imagine the peculiar sensations produced and the thoughts that flit across the mind at the moment. What if some miraculous event should occur upon diving into the deep sea, or some wonderful changes in Nature’s laws take place reversing perhaps the laws of gravitation, which should make the waters lighter and organic substances heavier! Then just imagine one’s self sinking down, down into the unfathomable waters and continuing upon the downward course, among the huge monsters who make their habitations amid the rocks and cliffs at the bottom! But after a few trials this sensation wears away, for we find that it is impossible to descend but a short distance below the surface, and that whether we will or not, we must ascend again without delay.
For two or three days, a number of our passengers indulged in this luxury of bathing, and would have continued doing so during the calm; but all things have an ending, and sea-bathing is no exception to the rule. The diversion was brought to an end by an incident which is worth mentioning. We had a passenger on board who, but a few years before, when on a voyage in the Indian Ocean, lost one of his legs in appeasing the appetite of a shark, while enjoying the luxury of a sea-bath. This young man, whose name was Measury, from Salem, Mass., acted in the capacity of sergeant at arms for us, and would allow no one to dive from the ship until well satisfied that there were no sharks in the immediate vicinity. This fact he would ascertain by throwing overboard any bright object, such as a tin cup or plate, for if there were any sharks within a reasonable distance, say one or two miles, they would be attracted towards the vessel, and could be plainly seen swimmingback and forth under the ship’s keel—waiting, not like Micawber, for something to turn up, but for some unfortunate sailor to tumble overboard. If no sharks made their appearance below the ship in the space of half an hour, it was presumed that the coast was clear, and by the gate-keeper’s consent, over we would go.
We had been in bathing one day, and nearly all of us had climbed aboard, when our sergeant at arms, who was seated as usual upon the ship’s rail upon the shady side, where he could obtain a good view of the ship’s keel, was heard to cry out to those who were yet in the water, but who were, however, near the ship, and just upon the point of climbing on board.
“Quick! quick boys, for God’s sake! A shark! A shark!”
Upon looking over the side, we saw an enormous shark beneath the keel. He spied the last man who was in the water, and darted towards him. The man, however, had reached the ladder, and was soon out of danger. The shark, turning upon its back with open mouth, darted towards him, but was too late, for just at this time its career was ended. The captain who was in the cabin, heard the cry of shark, and having been a short time before sailing engaged in whale-fishing, was prepared for such an emergency. Seizing his favorite weapon, which was a harpoon all ready for use, and to which was attached a long wooden pole, suspended from ropes over head in a convenient place, he jumped upon the rail, and as the shark’s head with open mouth projected above the water with a true aim darted the harpoon into its body. The huge fish was hoisted on board, and found upon measurement to be about fifteen feet in length. What a mouth, when opened! I was reminded of it years afterwards, in passing a Mendicino Co. saw-mill, with its gang of saws all in a row, ready for business. This incident ended our pleasures of sea-bathing.
But now was the old salt’s opportunity to spin a yarn that would discount anything in the shark line, and he made the most of it. Seated upon the fore hatch, toward evening, and after taking a fresh quid he sailed in:
“Well, well! me lads, that’s a big shark; but I can tell about one that discounts him. ’Twas when I was sailing on an English packet ship in the Indian Ocean, bound for the East Indies. We had an opera company on board, bound for Calcutta.
“We were running along one day with a stiff breeze, and the
THE OPERATIC SHARK.
passengers were all enjoying themselves up on deck, when all at once there was a cry of man overboard. An old gentleman, one of the musicians, was seated on the lee rail a readin’, when the ship give a lurch, and away he went over the side. His son was standing near at hand, and hauling off his coat, over the side he went, to rescue his father. The ship was brought up into the wind; a boat was lowered, and blast my eyes if we didn’t cruise about in our ship’s wake for more than four hours to get a sight of the old gentleman and his son. But we searched in vain, for they had gone; only, we couldn’t tell how, just then. We did though, pretty soon; for a few days after we saw a big shark following in our wake. He was a regular man-eater, and we knew from the antics he was cutting up, that he had swallowed the old musician and his son sure enough, and was huntin’ for the balance of the opera company. Why, shipmates, the shark would jest promenade around ship, standing upon his tail; then he would balance fore and aft on his head, and go through the figures of a quadrille in good style. One of the opera boys said that the old musician was a tough customer, and maybe the shark had the colic. Another one thought that maybe he had been chasin’ a French ship, and had swallowed a French dancin’ master who had fell overboard. But we soon found out all about it, for it happened that the shark came nearer to the ship than he intended to, and one of the crew threw a harpoon into him, and we histed him on deck to have a look at him. Jest as we were gettin’ ready to throw him overboard again, one of the opera boys says ‘hush! what’s that strange noise comin’ from inside of him?’ Well, we all heard it, and to satisfy our curiosity we cut him open, and maybe, shipmates, you won’t believe me when I tell you what we seen. But right in there was the old musician, sittin’ at a pianner and playin’ the Fisher’s Hornpipe, and laying in a hammock overhead was his son, beatin’ time on a base drum.”
There is consolation in the thought that, under whatever circumstances we may be placed that are of an unpleasant nature, all things, states and conditions have an ending. In the operations of Nature’s forces, man, by his ingenuity, can direct them for his use, but cannot control. During a gale of wind, for instance, the ship, by means of the sails and rudder, can be changed or altered in her course, and at such a time how insignificant man appears in comparison with the force and power of the elements, which are far beyond his absolute control! Yet, even when the elements are in active motion, they can be made serviceable by using the proper means; but when Nature’s forces are entirely passive and the elements are at rest, it is then that man is made conscious of his utter insignificance, especially if he is on board of a sailing vessel which is floating about at random upon the ocean in a dead calm. At such a time he has no control whatever over the elements above, or of the waters below, and the vessel drifts at random in whatever direction the currents are flowing. She rises and falls with the swell of the ocean, and her sails are continually flapping against the mast as an encouragement to her patience, or as a means of quieting her anxiety. The bows, also, exhibit their intense anxiety by swinging around the circle like a chained bear, in the vain endeavor to break away from the influence of such unpleasant conditions; but the onlyobject on board which does not conform to the random motions of the vessel, and remained, fortunately for us, constant to the forces which gave it value, was the needle in the binnacle.
The end was near, however, for upon the morning of the 14th day, away off in the distance, toward the west, was discovered a cat’s paw, a ripple upon the water, crawling silently but surely towards us upon the surface of the waters. It crawled carefully up the side of the ship, up into the rigging; and the great sails, which had been idly flapping for many days against the mast, now feel the effects of its magic influence, and, swelling with pride, endeavor to move the ship forward upon her course. The wheel, also, which for several days had been neglected and alone, lazily swinging from one side to the other, nodding and blinking beneath the scorching rays of the sun, was now aroused from its slumbers by the strong arm of a sailor, and, responding to his efforts, the bows of the ship swing gracefully around upon our course for the entrance to the Golden Gate with a fair wind, which increased with such force in a few hours that it was evident we had not only received the benefit of a cat’s paw, but that the whole animal had crawled on board, tail and all.
Late in the afternoon of September 19th, we arrived at the entrance to the Golden Gate, but only to find the sea enveloped in a dense fog, and the entrance through which we were in hope of passing at once, hidden from our view. The only resource was, in seaman’s phraseology, “to lay off” and on until morning, which we did in safety, although not without escaping in an almost miraculous manner from the greatest danger. The incident is worth relating, as it shows how it is possible, after having sailed so many thousands of miles in safety, upon arriving at your destination to meet with disaster through the ignorance of an incompetent seaman. It was the second mate’s watch on deck, the burly-headed seaman previously mentioned. About 11P.M., as the Captain was about turning in for the night, the second mate called down the gang-way for the Captain. When asked what was wanted, he replied that right ahead, seen through the fog, was a square-rigged vessel. The Captain answered:
“Well, you know your business, of course.”
Almost instantly afterwards he again shouted:
“Captain, come quick! we are close aboard of her!”
The latter leaped from his bunk, and was upon deck in an instant,and saw at once the nationality and character of the square-rigged craft, looming up in a dense fog, immediately over our bow. He ordered the wheel hard a port, and the old ship swung readily around in the foam and swash, and within less than half a ship’s length of one of the great rocks of the Faralone Islands. In less than one minute more we would have crashed into, run afoul of, and knocked from its foundation into the deep sea beyond, one of the grandest structures of the whole group, but the presence of mind of our Captain saved it from utter destruction, as well as a few score of badly scared gold hunters. Upon the morning of the 20th, we sailed in through the Golden Gate, coming at anchor in front of the tented city of San Francisco, having made the passage from our native city to this place in the space of five months and seventeen days.
The Arrival in San Francisco—Gold Machines—Going to the Mines—The Bullwhacker—Arrival in Hangtown—The View from the Hill.
The Arrival in San Francisco—Gold Machines—Going to the Mines—The Bullwhacker—Arrival in Hangtown—The View from the Hill.
THE city presented the appearance of a vast army encampment, and it was evident that the advance guard of Alexander’s army had arrived sure enough, and had conquered what they sought. In the contemplation of the scene as we saw it from the roof of the cook’s galley, we found deep consolation in the thought that in case the future would prove that we had travelled so many thousands of miles in search for gold, only to find upon our arrival that we had been badly sold, we were not alone at any rate. There was a grim satisfaction, therefore, in viewing the great number of vessels at anchor in the harbor from the various ports of the world, that had brought to the coast thousands of others for the same purpose.
Our voyage being ended upon our arrival in California, it is now, after upwards of forty years have passed since we sailed in through the Golden Gate, of some interest to know what has become of the passengers and crew of the old ship, and in fact of the ship also. The ship, after returning again to New Bedford, was fitted out for a whaling voyage and lost, I think in an ice pack in the Arctic Ocean. Captain Seabury, after serving for several years as master of a China steamer in the employ of the Pacific Mail Co., and also upon the Atlantic coast from New York to Aspinwall, a few years since retired from active service, and now lives in ease and comfort at his home in New Bedford. Of the passengers, there are but three of us at present remaining upon the Pacific Coast. Many of them died here. The greater portion of them returned to their Eastern homes; but a few of them are now left, and of all that number of gold hunters, not one of them succeeded in his anticipations of filling a pork barrel with the precious metal and but a small portion of them in filling an old boot-leg, or a beer-bottle, with the same.
It is necessary to explain here, that the ingenuity of many mechanics in the far-off Atlantic States had been exercised in the construction of various devices for the extraction of gold from the sand and soil which were, unfortunately, mixed with it. Our passengers, having full faith in their great value and efficacy, had brought quite a number of such machines with them. They were of all varieties and patterns; made of copper, iron, zinc and brass. Some of them were to be worked by a crank; others, more pretentious, having two cranks; whilst another patent gold washer, more economical and efficient, worked with a treadle. One variety was upright, requiring the miner to stand while using it. Still another, the inventor of which being of a more benevolent and humane temperament, was arranged in such a manner that the poor tired miner could sit in his arm-chair and take his comfort as he worked it.
One machine requires special mention. It was in the shape of a huge fanning mill, with sieves properly arranged for assorting the gold ready for bottling. All chunks too large for the bottle would be consigned to the pork barrel. This immense machine which, during our passage, excited the envy and jealously of all who had not the means and opportunity of securing a similar one, required of course the services of a hired man to turn the crank, whilst the proprietor would be busily engaged in shovelling in the pay dirt and pumping water; the greater portion of the time, however, being required, as was firmly believed in the corking of the bottles and fitting heads to the pork barrels. This machine was owned by a Mr. Allen, from Cambridge, Mass., who brought with him from that renowned head-center of learning, a colored servant who was to manage and control the crank portion of the invaluable institution; and so sanguine were all passengers in regard to the nature and value of the various machines for the purposes of saving, or for the extraction of gold, that apparently nothing but actual trial could convince them to the contrary.
Their faith in all kinds of mining machinery was put to the test sooner than expected; for upon landing, we found lying upon the sand and half buried in the mud, hundreds of similar machines, bearing silent witness at once to the value of our gold-saving machinery, without the necessity of a trial. Of course ours were also deposited carefully and tenderly upon the sandy beach, fromwhere, in a short time, they were washed into deep water, making amusement for the shrimps, clams, and crabs, which were no doubt under the impression that some unfortunate Italian vessel, with a cargo of hand-organs, had foundered in the locality. It was reported soon after, that the crew of a Dutch vessel that passed near Rincon Rock close by one dark and foggy night, saw distinctly a group of sea nymphs seated upon it, and that each one of them was engaged in turning the crank of what appeared to be some kind of a musical instrument. Old Neptune was seen standing in their midst as leader of the orchestra, keeping time with his sluice fork.
We saw scattered around among the bushes near the shore, also, a great number of trunks, chests, and valises of all sizes, and the most of them containing clothing of all descriptions, in many cases of value. These had all been thrown aside as useless encumbrances by their owners, who had started for the mines, being unable to pay the extra freight charged upon them.
We found that no wharves had yet been constructed, and the tide being out, it was somewhat difficult to land without wallowing through a short distance of very dark mud.
One of the sights which attracted our attention was a newly-constructed sidewalk, commencing at the building at that time occupied by Simmons, Hutchinson & Co., and extending in the direction of Adams & Co’s. express office, for a distance of about seventy-five yards, I think. In any other portion of the earth except California, this sidewalk would have been considered a very extravagant piece of work, hardly excelled by the golden pavements in the new Jerusalem. The first portion of the walk was constructed of Chilean flour, in one hundred pound sacks, and which in one place had been pressed down nearly out of sight in the soft mud. Then followed a long row of large cooking stoves, over which it was necessary to carefully pick your way, as some of the covers had been accidentally thrown off. Beyond these again, and which completed the walk, was a double row of boxes of tobacco, of large size. Although this style of walk may seem very extravagant, even to an old pioneer, yet at that time sacks of Chilean flour, cooking stoves, tobacco, and pianos were the cheapest materials to be found, for lumber was in the greatest demand, selling in some instances at $600 per M., whilst the former articles, in consequence of the great supply, were of little value.
NEPTUNE’S ORCHESTRA.
The town presented a strange scene. There were but few buildings; but the surrounding hills were covered with tents scattered promiscuously about, without regard to method or order.
Business of all kinds was lively, and although coin was scarce, yet gold dust answered every purpose.
Gambling houses and bar-rooms were numerous for the accommodation of citizens; but the former, for the accomodation, more especially, of the miners, who were daily arriving from the mines, and who could be seen coming from the landing place toward Adams & Co.’s express office with their sacks of gold dust, to be sold or forwarded to their friends in the East. Many, however, were forced to return again to the mines in a few days, after having struck bedrock in one of the gambling houses, in their curiosity to discover upon which end of the tiger its tail was hung; and they generally made the discovery.
We found the cost of living in the city very high, although certain articles, as flour, for instance, were plentiful and cheap. Meals at the restaurants were from one to two dollars. One of our passengers had about 80 pounds of sweet potatoes, which he sold readily for one dollar per pound, and also a few orangers which he sold for one dollar each.
The following bill of fare gives an idea of the cost of living:
BILL OF FARE.—WARD HOUSE.RUSSEL & MYERSPROPRIETORS.San Francisco, Thursday, October 27, 1849.SOUP.Ox Tail,$1 00FISH.Baked Trout, White and Anchovy Sauce,$1 50ROAST.Beef,$1 00Lamb, stuffed,1 00Mutton Stuffed,$1 00Pork, Apple Sauce,1 25BOILED.Leg Mutton, Caper Sauce,$1 25Corned Beef and Cabbage,$1 25Ham,$1 00ENTREES.Curried Sausages,a mie$1 00Beef, stewed with Onions1 25Tenderloin Lamb, Green Peas1 25Venison, Port Wine Sauce1 50Stewed Kidney, Sauce de Champagne1 25EXTRAS.Fresh California Eggs, each$1 00GAME.Curlew, roast or boiled to order$3 00VEGETABLES.Sweet Potatoes, baked$0 50Irishdoboiled0 50Irish Potatoes, mashed$0 50Cabbage0 50Squash$0 50PASTRY.Bread Pudding$0 75Mince Pie0 75Apple Pie0 75Brandy Peach2 00Rum Omelette$2 00Jellydo2 00Cheese0 50Stewed Prunes0 75
BILL OF FARE.—WARD HOUSE.
An observation of the crowds of persons continually arriving in great numbers and crowding into the new city proved them to be men of an active and energetic character, who had come for a certain specific purpose, and were determined to accomplish it by all possible legitimate means; but varied, of course, as to the manner, or methods of accomplishment. We found that a portion only of those who entered the Golden Gate had any desire to extract their share of gold from the mines, but were content to remain in San Francisco, believing that the flow of gold to the City would enable them to gather in a fair pro rata of it in some business enterprise.
The monotony of a long and tedious sea voyage being now at an end, the real business, or the object contemplated in making such a voyage now commenced. We have entered upon new scenes, and a change of condition, with all of its strange events and varying incidents.
A company of us—twenty-three in number—came for the special purpose of mining, and all preparations for the proper working of such an enterprise had been made previous to sailing. We had purchased all necessary tools and instruments for the purpose in view. For these reasons, we did not linger in San Francisco longer than was necessary; but began immediately the work of putting togetherthe materials of a large scow, or barge, which we had brought with us.
Upon this, when complete, we placed our effects, and with a fair wind and tide in our favor, started on our journey towards Sacramento City, at which place we arrived upon the fourth day out from San Francisco. At this place, after making a proper division of our provisions, tools, and instruments, we dissolved co-partnership as a company, each and every one going to such a mining district as best suited his inclination, or at which place, in his opinion, were to be found the richest mines. We learned here that rich gold mines had been discovered in several places besides Coloma, the point of original discovery by Marshall. Among them were Hangtown, Greenwood, Kelsey, Georgetown, and Mormon Island. The latter mining camp, located upon the American River about twenty miles east of Sacramento City, was the spot where our ex-Senator, John Connors, first engaged in the mining industry in August, ’49. Further north were Auburn and numerous bars upon the South and Middle forks of the American River, as well as other good mining localities in a southern direction. Sacramento City being the point of departure for all mining localities so far discovered, presented a very lively scene, and almost daily could be seen long strings of men on their way to the mines, carrying upon their backs their roll of blankets, on the top of which would be fastened certain cooking utensils and other conveniences. After selling off all stock, utensils, scow, tent and other things belonging to the company which could not be divided, we made a division of proceeds, and then every man was for himself.
Two others and myself formed a company, and after deciding upon the mining camp which we should visit, we employed a Pike county bullwhacker who agreed to deliver us and our effects in Hangtown for a certain consideration, payment invariably in advance. We accepted the offer, and in a few hours were on our way to Hangtown.
Captain Pike, as we christened him, had full control of his craft, being captain, cook, and all hands; running into port and camping when and wherever he pleased. He was a tall, powerful man, and carried an ox gad, which was about twelve feet in length, and large in proportion, to which was attached a lash made of raw-hide, long and large enough for a ship’s back-stay. With this he would urge