Comb-knives.—A difficulty sometimes arises in extracting the combs from common hives or boxes. A large spatula will separate them from the sides, but to detach them from the top, an instrument of a different kind is requisite. The one often preferred is simply a bar of steel about fourteen inches in total length, half an inch wide, and an eighth of an inch thick. At one end it is bent at a right angle with the handle, and at the other at an angle of 80° or 90°. The part thus turned up is in both cases an inch and a half long, rather less than half an inch wide, and made spear-pointed, or lancet-shaped; sharp on both sides, to cut either way. The one end is used when the top of the hive is flat; and the other is adapted to the common dome-formed roof. Another useful instrument is the one employed in detaching the combs from the bar-hives, made as recommended by Mr. Golding, with a double-edge blade, an inch and a half long, and three eighths of an inch wide; turnedat right angles from the end of a rod, which may be of quarter-inch square iron. For occasional convenience, the other end may be turned the flat way, sharpened at both edges.
Robbers.—Should an attack upon a hive from strange bees take place, which sometimes occurs at this season (the strong robbing the weak), no time ought to be lost in narrowing the entrance, for if allowed to continue a day or two the ruin of the family might be the consequence. Indeed, it is always well gradually to do this as the working season draws to a close. An assault from robber bees is often a much more formidable evil than one from wasps, although it is said that one of these is a match for three bees. Unless the colony is very weak, they are usually soon expelled, if the methods pointed out atpage 117are resorted to. Not so with bees, for if but one or two strangers gain admittance into a hive they will return again and again, always with an accession of force; and for a day or two it is often necessary entirely to close the entrance against them, opening it only at night. In such case the robber bees will sometimes collect in vast numbers at the mouth of the hive, when a shower from a watering-pot will send them away to dry themselves. The thieves are generally distinguishable; and they are often cunning enough to commence their marauding practices early in themorning and late at night. A supply of honey given on the top, or even sprinkled among the combs of contending hives, will often divert the attention of the combatants; or smoke is sometimes effectual, puffed into both hives. If fighting recommences on the succeeding day, the smoking should be repeated, followed by a feed of honey. Others have found it advantageous to remove for some days a plundered hive to a distance; or even to make the belligerent hives change places in the apiary; which, as a friend remarked to me, “gives a new turn to their ideas of meum and tuum.” A German proprietor, after removing an attacked stock, put in its place a hive filled with wormwood leaves, so distasteful to the robbers that they forsook the spot, when the stock was brought back again.
Autumnal Feeding.—All labour is now usually suspended for the year, and it remains to see that ample provision is laid up for the coming winter and spring. There ought not to be less than seventeen to twenty pounds of honey in a hive of the same year; but in the case of an old one, eight or ten pounds more must be allowed in estimating the weight; for old combs are much heavier than new ones; besides that they are a good deal filled with stale pollen, and sometimes contain candied honey, of no use to the bees.[T]In a healthy stock there should be no scarcity of food, if the season has been tolerable. The worst, however, must be provided for; and if, from any cause, it should be necessary, recourse must be had to supplying the deficiencies of nature. “A stock of bees,” observes Dr. Bevan, “generally consumes from a pound to a pound and a half of honey per month, betwixt the first of October and the first of March. From this time to the end of May, they will consume double that quantity.”
[T]In reference to this part of our subject, it may be useful to quote the following estimate, as given by Dr. Dunbar:—“A common straw hive weighs, when empty, from five to six pounds; an ordinary swarm about four pounds; the wax of a full hive of the current year, nearly two pounds; of the preceding year, at least three pounds; and the farina in the cells, not less than one pound; making in all about fifteen pounds. A stock, therefore, to be secure, ought to be double that weight in the gross; that is, should contain not less than fifteen pounds of honey.”—Naturalists' Library.
[T]In reference to this part of our subject, it may be useful to quote the following estimate, as given by Dr. Dunbar:—“A common straw hive weighs, when empty, from five to six pounds; an ordinary swarm about four pounds; the wax of a full hive of the current year, nearly two pounds; of the preceding year, at least three pounds; and the farina in the cells, not less than one pound; making in all about fifteen pounds. A stock, therefore, to be secure, ought to be double that weight in the gross; that is, should contain not less than fifteen pounds of honey.”—Naturalists' Library.
The requisite feeding to make up the winter store ought not to be delayed later than the beginning of October, and the weather should be fine. Food must never be placed in the open air, but under a cover; otherwise the smell would attract wasps or, what is worse, strange bees; in the latter case a battle generally following.
Feeding-troughs.—The feeding of bees, though apparently a simple matter, is often a troublesome process, and without due precaution sometimesleads to a good deal of commotion. The common swarming hives present much difficulty, from their construction. Having no opening at the crown, the clumsy and dangerous mode must be resorted to of bottom-feeding, in any way possible; either by tearing up the hive for every supply of food, or by means of an eke, pushed for the purpose beneath it. An improved hive gives facilities for presenting food on the top, obviating these inconveniences; and where it may be supplied in any quantity, without disturbance; at the same time that it is inaccessible to all enemies.
When there is a hole in the centre of the top of the hive, a trough may be used, made of tin or zinc, seven or eight inches square, and one inch and a quarter deep; having a circular two-inch hole in the middle of the bottom, with a rim round it, standing up half an inch, through which the bees enter the pan from below. Anothercircular rim or partition, as large in diameter as the square of the pan will admit, is soldered down within it at the four points where it touches the sides. It must not go down to the bottom, but a space should there be left of nearly an eighth of an inch, as a passage for the food, which is poured in at the four angles. A perforated thin wooden bottom or float is fitted loosely into the pan, between the circles, removing an objection sometimes made against the chilling effects of metal upon bees. The float should be a little raised by means of two thin strips of wood, appended below, to allow the liquid to flow beneath. A cover is made by a piece of glass, resting on the larger circle, but cut nearly octagonal in form, so as to leave the corners open. The circle on which the glass rests should be an eighth of an inch lower than the outer rim. In making a trough of this kind, it is sometimes customary to append beneath it a central descending rim or tube, fitting down into the hole on the top of the hive. This is worse than useless, and it is in the way on the removal of the pan; on which occasion it is expedient to push beneath it a piece of sheet tin or zinc, to stop the communication from below.
Such a pan is perhaps made more readily without the inner circle; in which case, all that is needed for pouring in the food is a partition going nearly down to the bottom, so as to cut offa portion at one corner. The glass pane can rest on angle-pieces, sunk an eighth of an inch, at three of the corners, and upon the partition at the fourth one, this part being left open.
A charge is sometimes brought against zinc feeding-pans, as tending to create acidity in the food. There is perhaps some truth in this, where it is suffered to remain too long; together with another cause of mischief,—a very general neglect of cleanliness. Those, however, who prefer wood altogether may have troughs made of that material, either square or round in form, as that given in our illustration, which is turned from hard wood in a lathe; a piece being divided off on one side by a partition, under which the food passes, beneath a wood float. A pane of glass rests upon a circular rabbet turned out to receive it, leaving uncovered the part beyond the partition.
For the purpose of feeding the bees in my bar-hive, a zinc or tin trough is provided, of a formadapted to the position of the openings cut through the crown-board to the stock-box. The extreme length is ten inches and a half, four inches wide, and an inch and a half deep. At one end is a partition an inch and a quarter wide, going down nearly to the bottom. Into this the honey or other food is poured, running under a wooden perforated float, and fitted loosely within the bottom. A pane of glass rests on two angle pieces, at one end, and on the cross division at the other, all sunk a quarter of an inch, and covering the pan as far as the partition. The latter is strengthened in the centre by a cross-stay, against which the glass rests. At the bottom is an opening seven inches long and half an inch wide, with a rim around it, about half an inch high. This opening is placed so as to correspond with that communicating through the bars beneath. Draw out the slides, and the bees will have access to the pan. This proceeding is of course reversed on its removal.
Bee Food.—Nothing that can be presented to bees is so acceptable as their natural food—pure honey. At this season, as it is chiefly stored for future consumption, it is best unmixed with water. Fill the pan every evening till the requisite quantityis given, for it will speedily be emptied. Refuse honey may be given to the bees in the combs, piled in a pan, a little separated, and covered by a box or hive. The sooner the feeding is ended the better, the bees, if in health, being on these occasions much excited and often irascible. Let enough be given when you are about it. Gelieu says, “Let there be no higgling with bees; better that they have too much than too little.” Recollect that little of your bounty is now eaten, but is conveyed and stored for the day of need; the bees sometimes extending the combs purposely to receive it, and often of pollen as well; for it is observable that feeding at any time stimulates them to foraging abroad. Nothing is wasted, and whatever there is to spare will be repaid with interest in the spring. It must also be borne in mind, that what food is likely to be wanted must be suppliednow, for very rarely should any further attempts at feeding be made till the returning spring restores animation to the family. A reference toSpring Feedingwill supply information as to various substitutes for honey.
Winter Store.—Under the head ofAutumnal Feedingwe have mentioned the usual estimate as to the requisite supply of honey for the winter. Anomalous as it may seem, it has been remarked, that the quantity apparently required is notdependent on the population of the hive. The number of mouths make little sensible difference, even when two or three stocks have been united. This fact was first noticed by Gelieu, and has been corroborated by other observers.
“In doubling the population,” says Gelieu, “I naturally conceived that we must also double the quantity of food; for I had always seen that two or three families, living together, used more meat than each would have done singly, however rigid their economy. The more mouths the more meat, thought I; and, in consequence, I augmented greatly the amount of provision the first time that I doubled a hive; but to my astonishment, when I weighed it again in the spring, I found that the united swarm had not consumed more than each would have done singly. I could not believe my eyes, but thought there must be some mistake; nor could I be convinced until I had repeated the experiment a hundred times over, and had always the same result.”
This seeming anomaly, Gelieu and others have attempted to account for on the principle that the increased heat of an augmented population is in some measure a substitute for food; but this is opposed to all experience, which proves that warmth is a stimulus to consumption. A more satisfactory way of disposing of the question seems to be, in the first place, that the bees in a well-peopled hive feel in a lower degree the evils consequenton frequent changes of temperature occurring in winter, than is observable in a less populous one; for alternations of cold and warmth have an injurious effect, generally leading to an increased consumption of stores. The next consideration is that the junction of stocks, alluded to by Gelieu, ensures a larger supply of labourers in the early spring. It is not in the cold weather that much consumption of food takes place, but after the month of February, when the great hatching comes on; and then not so much by thebees, as by thebrood. In a thinly-populated hive, almost the whole family is required within-doors at this time, to warm the eggs and feed the young; and consequently little is added to the continually diminishing stock of honey and farina. Nothing is more common than to see a hive, apparently well stored in February, on the point of perishing in the month of April. This is not the case where a large number of bees can be spared to go abroad and bring in fresh supplies, to keep pace with, or even to exceed, the demands of the craving brood.
Autumnal Unions, Fuming, and Transferring Bees.[U]—The subject of autumnal unions of beestocks is strongly advocated by Gelieu; and in this country has not always received the attention it demands. Perhaps this is in part owing to ignorance as to a ready mode of accomplishing the object; and in some degree from the supposed doubt about maintaining the bees, when collected in a large body, through the winter. The latter difficulty is removed by a reference to what has been said on the subject of winter store, in the last section. I hope I shall be able to show that, by a safe and simple expedient, the bees of two or three weak or worn-out families may be joined together, to form one vigorous stock; at the same time saving thousands of valuable lives. The late Apiarian Society of Oxford is entitled to credit for the care it bestowed on this branch of bee economy; and the method of procedure now to be explained was there successfully practised. It should be done about September, and in warm weather.
[U]It may be well in this place to call attention to the distinction between the system ofTransferring Bees, inAutumn, in the way now pointed out, and what has sometimes been confounded with it; namely, the practice ofTransferring Bees and Combs together, from one hive to another. This I never advocated, except in bar-hives, when it is sometimes practicable, provided the combs are built in straight lines.
[U]It may be well in this place to call attention to the distinction between the system ofTransferring Bees, inAutumn, in the way now pointed out, and what has sometimes been confounded with it; namely, the practice ofTransferring Bees and Combs together, from one hive to another. This I never advocated, except in bar-hives, when it is sometimes practicable, provided the combs are built in straight lines.
The custom of stupefying bees by some narcotic substance has long been in practice; and, observes Dr. Dunbar, “there is no more useful auxiliary in every operation in an apiary than smoke.” By subjecting them to the fumes, the bees are rendered insensible and harmless for a time; but soon recover, with no ill-effects subsequently.Apparatus more or less complicated has been invented for fuming; but perhaps the most simple was that used at Oxford, which is a tin tube, eighteen inches long, and three quarters of an inch in diameter; readily made by any tin-worker. One end is extended and flattened to adapt it to the entrance of the hive, whilst the other is applied to the mouth of the operator. In the centre of the tube is a box, two inches and a half long, and two inches in diameter, to contain the fumigating material; and to receive which, one end is made to draw out like a telescope. The two ends of the box, where the tubes join it, are stopped withinside by divisions of perforated tin. This part must be put together, by rivetting, and without solder, which the heat would melt. An instrument of this form is adapted for most purposes where smoke is needed, it being applicable to fuming a hive at the mouth, or, in some cases, from the top; for it is, occasionally, more in accordance with the object in view that the bees should be driven down, rather than upwards. When, therefore, this is proposed, a bend in the tube becomes expedient, which is readily managed by having the fartherend made in two pieces to be disconnected at pleasure, after the plan of a watering-pot. Another end-piece can then be slipped on like a nozzle, turned downwards, to enter the hole through the top of the hive. The instrument just described is of course used in the hand; but another kind is sometimes applicable, made not unlike a pepper-box, upon a foot, which stands on, or in a hole in, the ground, whilst the hive about to be fumed is placed over it. The top lifts off to receive the fungus; and this, as well as the lower end, is pierced with holes.
The substance hitherto chiefly recommended for the fumigation or stupefying of bees is a kind of fungus, found growing often very large and round, mostly in rich pastures or plantations, in the autumn. It is theLycoperdon Giganteum, but variously called, as Devil’s snuff-box, fuzz-ball, or puff-ball. It should be gathered when nearly ripe. Dry it in the sun, or a cool oven, and preserve it from damp. It is then a spongy substance, containing brown dust; and burns with an offensive smell. The difficulty often of procuring this material led me to make trial of another kind of fungus, calledRacodium Cellare, or mouse-skinByssus. It may be found growing in large wine or beer vaults, in immense dark-coloured bunches or festoons, suspended from the roof, often wearing a handsome appearance. In a single such vault, in London, I have seen as much aswould suffice for a large portion of the bee-keepers in Great Britain; and I can recommend it (not too freely used) as even more efficacious than the other fungus. It requires no preparation, igniting and smouldering readily, and may be preserved for years. Whatever be the material employed, let the box of the tube be about two-thirds full; and a few puffs will cause it to send forth smoke abundantly. The hive which it is intended to deprive of its tenants may be lifted gently from its place soon after dusk, and placed over some kind of receptacle. An empty hive, turned bottom upwards, might answer with a little management, but there must be no place of escape for the bees. The best thing is a box or bowl, about ten inches square withinside, and four or five inches deep; with a wide flat rim all round. The first introduction of the smoke will cause an uproar among the bees, which will speedily be followed by silence, as they fall down from its effect. A minute or two generally suffices for this, assisted by striking the sides and top of the hive. Whenall is quiet, turn up the hive, and you will have received the greater part of its inhabitants in the bowl, in a stupefied state and perfectly subdued. A portion will remain sticking in the combs, which must be cut out one by one, and the bees swept with a feather into the bowl, where a little more smoke will, if needed, keep them quiet in the interim. As respects the Queen, if perceived, she can be taken away, but the bees will commonly dispose of her in their own way, by the next morning. The whole being thus collected, they soon begin to show signs of returning animation; and when this is about to take place, sprinkle them pretty freely with a mixture of sugared ale. Next, lift quietly from its stand the hive to which the smoked bees are to be united, placing it over the bowl, but leaving no opening except the mouth, for air. The bees from above, attracted by the scent, will go down, and begin licking the sprinkled ones. The whole become intermixed, and ascend together into the hive over them, in perfect goodwill. Leave them till the following morning early, when the bowl will generally be found empty. Replace the doubled hive on its original stand, and the work is complete. If it is thought desirable still further to augment its strength, the bees of a second hive may be added in the bowl; or a second union may be made in a night or two afterwards. All that remains is to see that the hive contains honey to last thewinter; and whatever is wanted to make up about eighteen pounds must be supplied for that purpose, in the way pointed out in a previous section.
We will now detail another mode of proceeding, at once speedy and efficacious, and attended with no risk to the operator. With the tube of which we have before spoken, in the evening puff some smoke into the mouth of the hive you wish to take, without removing it. Compel as many of the bees to fall down as you can; then lift the hive, and brush out those remaining; taking away the Queen if you can find her without much trouble. Collect the whole in a heap on the floor-board, and sprinkle them pretty well with sugared ale. You may now, if the numbers are still thought insufficient, add to the first, the smoked bees of a second hive. Next puff some smoke within the stock-hive into which the bees thus collected are to be transferred, quietly where it stands; just sufficient to stupify its inhabitants, and produce a uniformity of scent. Turn it bottom upwards, floor-board and all, so as to drop no bees; and place it, if of straw, in a pail, or some similar kind of support. In this position lift off the floor-board, and sprinkle these bees also with a smaller portion of the ale, in the hive where they are. After this is done, before they have recovered, sweep the smoked bees uniformly among the combs of the hive destined to receivethem. Clean and scrape its floor-board, and as soon as symptoms of returning animation begin to appear, replace it, turning the whole again into the right position. All that remains is to restore it at once to its original place or stand. Before the hive is left, clear away from the entrance any bees that may have fallen down, so that the passage for air is not obstructed. In the absence of a tube like the one described, it is very practicable to make use of a common pipe and tobacco; but the latter should be of a mild kind, and not too freely used, or many deaths might ensue.
In selecting the future domicile of the family thus augmented, it will be well to observe that the hive is not one of long standing, in which the combs have become thickened with age. Indeed, a colony of the same year is to be preferred, and more particularly where the Queen is a young one. If, however, it is desired to cut out the old combs from the intended future stock-hive, it can now be done with safety; first turning on to the board as many of the bees as you can. A supply of honey will invigorate the new community, and the vacancies will be filled up with fresh combs, provided the operation has not been delayed too late in the season.
It is of great importance here to observe, that after making autumnal unions, in cases where the bees have been expelled from hives possessingfresh combs, the latter ought to be left undisturbed, as so much gain to a spring swarm, which will gladly accept a house ready furnished: moreover, a vast saving of honey results, for the fabrication of comb, as we have shown atpage 110, consumes a great deal of this. The same remark applies to supers partly filled with combs; but they should be kept clean and dry. It is worthy of remark, that some authorities maintain the opinion that bees will now and then re-work portions of old combs or wax, but it must be free from impurity.
As far as it can be managed, it is desirable that attention should be paid to the previous position of the hives intended to form unions, for there is always a disposition in bees to return to the spot to which they have been accustomed. Where it is practicable, therefore, it is best to unite adjoining families; or when the union is to consist of three, unite to a hive in the centre, one on each side. A little foresight at the time of swarming, in the arrangement of the hives, will often facilitate after proceedings. Some have resorted to the plan of confinement of the bees, but this does not always meet the difficulty; for, on the first opportunity, many of them will return to their old haunts, and seek in vain their former dwelling.
Fumigation may often be resorted to in cases where a superabundance of honey exists in a hiveat this season; for after the introduction of a little smoke the bees will fall down. It may then be reversed, and a portion of comb cut away in due moderation. Restore the bees to the hive, and replace its board, when the whole may be turned back to its proper position without injury.
Under the head ofCommon Straw Hives, we have remarked that suffocation with brimstone is the usual mode of obtaining possession of their stores; the stocks of the second or third year’s standing being commonly selected for destruction. If, however, such stocks can be made strong and healthy in the way we have been detailing, good policy would point to the colonies of the present year as those affording the richest harvest of honey, and of the best quality, as being in new combs. These will never be of more value for the market than in the first autumn, provided the proprietor is satisfied as to the state of his older stocks for the next year’s swarming. Such of the latter, moreover, as have sent out swarms in the same season will of course possess young Queens. In some districts this principle is carried out in practice, and doubtless with advantage, when a proper discretion is used. Under any circumstances, it is clear that in gaining possession of the honey, destruction of the bees may be avoided by adopting the fuming and uniting plan, instead of that of suffocation; for whether the hive benew or old, rich or poor, the same principle applies, with no amount of time, trouble, or expense, greater than under the brimstone system. The plea of necessity no longer exists for a wanton waste of valuable life; and to this point the attention of the cottager, in particular, might surely be directed, as one often involving his future profits. Let him know that it is his interest not tokill his bees; but, when expelled from one hive, to unite them to another, where augmented numbers will require no more than the usual stock of winter food. Inform him that he is acting on a mistaken principle when he imagines that his bees are worn out with age—the common plea for destroying them: that these are short-lived, and periodically renewed, so that thehivealone becomes old: moreover, that a large proportion of the bees at the close of the season are those produced in the later months; the older ones gradually disappearing in the autumn, to be succeeded by others destined to become the early labourers of the opening new year.[V]
[V]In a case where a proprietor had been obstinately bent on resorting to the old mode of destruction, the bees were stupefied by a wiser neighbour; taken home by him, and added to one of his own weak stocks, which turned to good account in the following spring.
[V]In a case where a proprietor had been obstinately bent on resorting to the old mode of destruction, the bees were stupefied by a wiser neighbour; taken home by him, and added to one of his own weak stocks, which turned to good account in the following spring.
Before we leave this part of our subject, a word may be said to those who are disposed to fancy there may be an evil in a super-abundantwinter population in a hive. I never observed any permanent inconvenience arising from this; and no doubt can exist as to the advantage of maintaining a comfortable temperature, the Queen continuing to lay later in the autumn under such stimulant. Moreover, it must not be imagined that all the bees collected together to form a stock, at this time, are destined to survive till the spring. The day of life may, with many of them, be already far spent; but we have shown in what way their presence, though but temporary in the hive, indirectly contributes to augment the numbers of future spring labourers. Were it not so, there would be nothing to mark the well-known distinction between a populous and a half-tenanted hive. It is certain that, however numerous may be the eggs laid in the spring, a portion only are of avail in any but a hive so well peopled as to create a favorable temperature for hatching them, and to supply the means necessary to their full development. Thus strength in one year begets it in succeeding ones; and it must be remembered how influential is warmth to the early productive powers of the Queen, without which all goes wrong; and how important it is in the opening spring to be able to spare from the home duties of the hive a large number of collectors to add to the stores, which would otherwise not keep pace with the cravings of the rising generation.
Following up the principle thus laid down, I entirely agree with those who carry it out still further, by never destroying, if it can be avoided, the brood often found in quantity in a hive treated in the way we have been advising; for it is obvious that the latest hatched bees are those most likely to be of use in the spring. Where it is practicable, therefore, those combs which contain brood should, with as little loss of time as possible, to avoid chill, be arranged in a natural position, in a well-covered super, and placed over a hive requiring to be strengthened. The bees from below will ascend and cluster upon them and, in due time, a valuable accession of numbers will result. A deprived bar-hive offers many facilities in such cases, without injuring the combs.
It may not be misplaced here to remark, that, in the language of apiculturists, the hives of the year,made up, as it is termed, for the winter, now assume the name ofstocks. Hitherto they have been denominated swarms or colonies. At this time a good selection of stocks may be made by those about to establish an apiary, to be removed at Christmas. In addition to the usual characteristics of vigour, such families are to be preferred as exhibit a certain degree of irascibility, for this is often most observable where there is most to defend.
Driving of Bees.—In the preceding section wehave detailed the modes in practice for uniting bees, and for obtaining possession of their honey, by the aid offumigation. Many proprietors, however, prefer to arrive at the same object by resorting to what is termedDriving; by which process the inmates of one hive are impelled to abandon it, and enter some other. When skilfully performed, this operation is often successful in attaining the end in view; but it is seldom well to attempt it, except in a pretty full hive. Mr. Golding has given, in a small compass, general directions as to the mode of procedure in common cases of Driving, and we will, therefore, adopt his words. "Towards dusk, when the family will be all at home, let the hive be raised gently from its floor-board, and supported on wedges about half an inch thick. When the bees shall have quietly ascended from the floor up into the hive, it may be inverted steadily on a small tub or pail. An empty hive, of the same diameter, being at hand, should be quickly set over the one turned up to receive it. A lighted pipe may be ready to give a puff or two if necessary, but the operation can generally be effected without using it. Tie a cloth firmly round the junction of the hives so that the bees cannot escape. Proceed to drum upon the full hive (opposite the sides of the combs, so as not to detach them), with the open hands or a couple of sticks; the bees will be so alarmed that in a few minutes they will haveascended into the hive set over them. A hive full of combs, and well peopled, always drives better than a weak and partly-filled one. The operation should never be attempted excepting in warm weather. If the object be to furnish another hive with the bees, there is nothing to do but to reverse the hive in which they are, and place the other upon it, again tying the cloth round the junction. A few raps upon the peopled hive will cause them to ascend, and early next morning they should be placed upon their usual stand. Those who still adhere to the common cottage hive may, by driving, deprive well-stored families of part of their honey. Having previously weighed the hive, calculate how much may be taken with safety, and cut away the external combs accordingly. The bees may then be returned as directed." Some operators vary the above proceeding, and perhaps diminish the danger, by placing, as the first step, the empty hive at the bottom, and the full one gently upon this. After making the junction complete between them, the two hives are reversed carefully together, so that the unoccupied one comes to the top, and the drumming then proceeds. This should be continued from five to ten minutes, according as circumstances indicate its necessity.
There are diversified ways of uniting the bees after they have been driven into an empty hive. Dr. Dunbar says, "turn up the stock-hive whichis to receive the addition to its population: with a bunch of feathers, or a very small watering-pot, drench them with a solution of ale and sugar, or water and sugar, made a little warm. Do the same to the expelled bees: then placing these last over the stock, mouth to mouth, a rap on the top of the hive will drive them down among the bees and combs of the underneath hive. Place this last on its pedestal, and the operation is completed. The strong flavour of the solution will prevent the bees from distinguishing between friend and stranger."
Payne advocates the middle of a fine day as the best time for driving; removing the hive to be operated upon to a shady place, and then inverting over it an empty hive, as already described. A little smoke might sometimes be needful. Having ascertained that the bees have gone into the upper hive, Payne continues, "take the latter immediately to the place where the driven hive was taken from, and place it upon the same floor-board. Carry the driven hive fifty or sixty yards away; the few bees that remain in it, as well as those that are out at work, will return to the other hive, at the accustomed spot. All is now finished until an hour after sunset (excepting emptying the driven hive of its store), when two sticks may be laid upon the ground, about nine inches apart, opposite the stock-hive to which the driven bees areto be joined; then with a smart stroke dash out the bees between the sticks; and instantly, but gently, place the stock-hive over them upon the sticks: leave them for the night, protecting them from the weather, and an hour before sunrise restore the stock-hive to its original position. Here will be an increased population, enabled to stand through the winter much better, and to send out an earlier swarm, than if the union had not been effected."
The autumnal driving of bees is a common practice when the proprietors reside within a few miles of the moors and heaths, to which the hives are conveyed in time to luxuriate in a second harvest of blossom, now available from the heather. In such districts, it is not unusual to appropriate the whole contents of the driven hive; the bees being compelled to begin the world again in a new house and locality, like a recent swarm. Or, two or three small families may be driven into one. In a good season, a few weeks suffice to enable them to fill their second dwelling with combs, brood, and honey of the very finest quality. On their return home from the moors, some of the hives are again driven, and deprived of a portion of their stores; or united in many instances two or three together, to form strong families as stocks; for the value of population is too well understood to allow of any unnecessary destruction of life.
WINTER MANAGEMENT.
The management of bees in the winter season is probably that which is less understood than any other department of the apiary, and various have been the modes urged for ensuring safety through its various dangers. It seems, however, to be pretty generally admitted that it is better to allow the hives to remain in their usual position throughout the year; and our care therefore should be directed to ward off the casualties now to be guarded against. Ignorant attention, nevertheless, is sometimes worse even than neglect; and having once made the needful winter arrangements, there ought to be as little subsequent disturbance as possible. The great points to be observed are, adequate exterior covering and complete protection from the effects of wind, wet, and sudden changes of weather; a sufficiency of food to last till the spring; and preservation from damp in the hive, with its attendant evils. As regards the store of honey, we have already said that this is a matter to be clearly ascertained and supplied in autumn. When, therefore, as the cold weather sets in, and the bees have collected and clustered together, there must be no more attempts at feeding. The mouth ofthe hive should gradually be contracted, as the winter advances, though never entirely closed. After every fall of snow, let it be cleared away from the hives, and about the stand or house, to prevent the chance of reflection, which always injuriously arouses the bees, and for the better security from moist exhalation on thawing.
Winter position.—It is extremely desirable in winter to keep off the influence of the sun from the front of the hives. Some persons recommend moving them from their summer position to a north aspect, or turning them round on their stands. But this shifting of quarters involves the necessity of shutting up the bees close prisoners till the spring; for all that casually left the hive would fly back to the original familiar spot, never more to revisit home. I entirely agree with those who assert that bees are never healthy where confinement has been long continued. “Who shuts up the wild bees in the forests of Lithuania, where they thrive so well?” asks Gelieu. Surely in this, as in other parts of our practice, we cannot do better than follow the guidance of nature. On a fine day, with the thermometer at or not much below 50° (and these are not of unfrequent occurrence in winter), the bees avail themselves of it, sallying forth in evident delight, with certain advantage to health and cleanliness; for they void nothing in thehive, unless compelled by long necessity. This is the point at which disease commences: indeed the retention of their fæces sometimes occasions death. Their impatience of confinement is excessive, and increases as the season advances, so that they will leave the hive at a lower temperature after Christmas than before. But in thus advocating the principle of liberty, I am not insensible to the evil it may bring with it, if not guarded against. The most disastrous consequences follow the flight of bees on a frosty day, when the gleams and deceitful warmth of a winter sun reach their domicile, particularly with snow on the ground, the glare of which allures them out to destruction, for they soon fall down to rise no more. The remedy for this is the screening of the hive in some way from its effects; and it should be done as soon as winter actually sets in. At the same time it is important that no obstruction to the free passage of air is presented, or dysentery among the bees would be the certain consequence. Where the hives stand singly, I have always seen the advantage of fixing before each a wooden screen, nailed to a post, sunk in the ground,and large enough to throw the whole front into shade. This does not interfere with the coming forth of the bees at a proper temperature; and it supersedes any necessity for shutting them up when snow is on the ground. The screen should be fixed a foot or two in advance, and so as to intercept the sun’s rays, which will be chiefly in winter towards the west side. Other plans have been tried for effecting the same object, such as blocks placed at the mouth of the hive; but these answer no good end, as the rays of light penetrate underneath and around them. In a bee-house, entirely enclosed at the front, the hives and their boards may sometimes at this season be advantageously shifted a little sideways of the exterior entrance way; with hollowed blocks (seepage 96), shaped in accordance, to intercept the light, but not the air.
A screen of the kind we have described has the further tendency to promote the security of the bees, where other enemies than wind, frost, snow, or sun might sometimes endanger them. One of these, at this time, is the blue Titmouse, to which we have before alluded. Old Purchas says, "She will eat ten or twelve bees at a time, and by-and-by be ready for more. When she cometh to the hive and findeth none, she knocketh with her bill at the door, and as soon as the bees come out to inquire the cause, she catcheth firstone and then another, until her belly be full." Atpage 117we have described a mode of dealing with these marauders.
Damp in Hives.—Perhaps there is nothing more prejudicial than the moisture often engendered in exposed hives at this time, particularly after frost, and in certain states of the atmosphere. It accumulates on the top and sides, moulding and rendering offensive the combs, and producing disease amongst the bees. For this reason, hives with flat roofs have sometimes been objected to; and perhaps justly, where no provision is made for ventilation. Gelieu obviated the evil by placing caps or small hives (cemented down) over the stocks; the moisture ascending, evaporated through the opening, “as by a chimney,” I have tried different experiments, and have found nothing better than the practice of condensing the vapour of the hive as much as possible, and conveying it away. At the beginning of winter, over the hole on the top, a piece of perforated zinc or wood is placed. Upon this let one of the common feeding troughs, already described, be put, from which the glass cover, and, if you please, the perforated bottom, are previously removed; the hole in the pan being placed over the one below. This may be covered with a bell-glass, standing within the pan. As the exhalation rises from the bees below, it is condensed on the glass, andreceived, often in considerable quantity, in the pan. The hole at the top of the glass may be stopped, opening it occasionally on a fine day, to allow the escape of vitiated air. The change of air in a hive, in mild, dry weather, is always conducive to health, till the early spring breeding begins, when caution against chill to the bees is needed. In the absence of a bell-glass, the glass cover to the trough may be kept in its place as a substitute. We have already recommended the giving to all hives or boxes a slight inclination forwards, as being useful in conveying away the moisture.
Where there is no feeding pan, a bell-glass may be put within a circular leaden or zinc trough, having the centre open, and placed over the hole below.
Temperature.—With good protection from cutting winds, from wet without, and from damp within, the effects of cold alone, unless of extreme severity, need not be apprehended, for the bees of a strong stock will generate sufficient warmth; and a dry season is often better sustained than a mild, moist one. It is of importance to guard againstsudden changesof temperature, often occurringin winter; and experienced bee-keepers have recommended covering each hive with a mat, or something of the kind, as a regulator.
It is certain that less food is consumed at a low than a high temperature, and that the bees are often healthy in proportion. I have known the thermometer down to 32° in a box, with no bad effect to the bees whenclustered together; but they would become torpid if exposedsinglyto this, or to a much less degree of cold, especially towards the close of winter; and could then only be recovered by artificial warmth.[W]The action of very severe frost, moreover, has an injurious effect upon the honey, which becomes candied at the extremities of the combs, and sometimes throughout. It is thenceforth useless as food for the bees.[X]