3The First Fifty Years
The discovery of the Carlsbad Caverns was not an earth-shaking event at the time. Its true value as a spectacle was to wait almost 20 years. Had it not been for the huge quantities of guano, my father and his friends might not have been especially interested in the cave, that is, sufficiently so to explore it further, since there were so many similar caves in this particular area of the State, and the discovery of one more didn't unduly excite anyone.
But because the guano looked like a worth while business proposition, the cave got more than casual consideration.
My father knew it was larger than some of the others in the area, and he gave it the title "The Big Cave." It was also referred to as "The Bat Cave" because of the millions of bats which would fly out of its mouth each evening, only to return in equal numbers the following dawn.
In those days it was primarily a guano producing cave and, except for occasional explorations by the guano miners and their friends, there were no extensive trips into the underground chambers by scientists. Only the commercial aspects of the fertilizer producing activities were recognized.
The guano was shipped to California distributors and was largely used in the fruit orchards there. The operation was not too profitable, as my father found out, and after he sold his equipment to Mr. Patterson the property changed hands many times. In 1906, for example, there were three different owners, and there was some splitting of ownership whereby an owner would sell a part or half his interest.
Also, there were other sections which were owned by independent operators. Prior to 1906 the Santa Fe Railroad owned 40 acres over the east portion of the cave.
By around 1912 the bulk of the guano had been removed and activity around the cave ceased. There were little spurts of renewed interest from time to time, but there was actually little news about the cave for several years.
In later years people have often speculated as to whether or not the great Carlsbad Caverns would ever have been discovered had it not been for the attention caused by either my father's discovery quite by chance, or from the dark clouds of bats which emanated from the cave each evening.
We know now that even if those two events had never occurred—even if there were no opening on the surface of the earth, if there were no habitation of bats, the great cave would have indeed been discovered.
And historians now like to think that the cave was actually discovered twice. The first, as we know, was when my father stumbled upon it quite by accident back in 1903. This was the discovery of the guano beds, the beauty and grandeur of the Caverns being secondary at that time.
Then came what historians have since called "the rediscovery!"
And it, like the first discovery almost 20 years before, came about quite by accident!
At the end of, and immediately following, the first World War, around 1919 and 1920, the United States Government Commission of Reclamation was constructing several dams along the Pecos River some 20 miles east of the site of the big Bat Cave. The purpose of the dams was to impound river water for irrigation of the surrounding agricultural lands.
But for some strange reason the dams didn't seem to be doing any good. The water seemed to disappear underground. The Commissionfelt it was useless to consider the construction of any more dams in the area until the mystery could be cleared up.
They took the matter up with the U. S. Geological Survey, and again the question was unanswered. It seemed strange that the water could not be held and used to irrigate the surrounding farm lands.
The U. S. Geological Survey said they felt the problem was of sufficient value to merit a complete investigation. They would, they said, send a party to the site to see if they could unravel the riddle of the river's strange behavior. They advised that no more dams be constructed until the source of the trouble could be determined.
The assignment was given to Dr. Willis T. Lee.
He pondered the situation and knew from experience that there were several possible solutions, yet he couldn't do much more than hazard a guess as to what the trouble might be. He also knew that when nature is concerned he might stumble onto an entirely new reason.
Before he left Washington, Dr. Lee had reviewed all the available information on the geological formation of the earth in the area and was quite well informed on its composition.
Now, on the land itself, he began to study the situation from every angle. He found the limestone strata throughout the entire area were a bit different from that which he had previously seen in other parts of the world.
Gypsum and salt are soluble in water, and when the dams were built they obviously raised the water level several feet above its natural contours or limitations. The water would then find its way into these alternate layers and would seek lower levels, dissolving the rock salt and gypsum as it did so. With nothing to hold it behind the dams, the water would disappear into the earth and reappear again many miles below the spots where the dams had been built.
While Dr. Lee was in the vicinity, he decided to have a look at the famous Caverns of which he had been hearing so much, and was promptly invited to see these underground wonders since he was so close to them. He knew of the existence of the many bat caves or guano caves in the southeastern part of New Mexico, but had not suspected they contained any real beauty. Now, for the first time, he was to learn otherwise.
Prior to this the United States Land Office had sent Mr. RobertHolley to survey the Caverns, and by the time Lee visited these underground chambers, Holly had surveyed some three and a half miles of their interior. It was Holly's report which brought about the designation of the area as the Carlsbad Caverns National Monument.
Dr. Lee was enthusiastic in his description of the great Caverns as a thing of immense size and beauty. Here was something that had been kept a secret long enough, he felt, and the government should do something about them.
His report was the spark that set off a chain reaction. Now, for the first time, national magazines began to publish reports of this huge, fabulous cave in southeast New Mexico. In the latter part of 1923 several articles appeared based on Dr. Lee's descriptions of the underground wonders. Now, at last, the world was learning of the existence of this fairyland of unmatched scope anywhere in this country, perhaps in the world.
But prior to this time the National Geographic Society had become interested in Willis Lee's findings. Certainly this was worthy of the Society's attention. Accordingly, they set up a grant of $16,000 to finance the first full scale exploration of the Caverns. They selected Dr. Lee to head the party.
Dr. Lee's mission this time was much different. He wasn't concerned where the underground waters were going. Rather he was set upon finding and reporting the scenery about which he knew the world would want to hear.
His subsequent report in the National Geographic Magazine (January, 1924) marked the first full scale description of the Caverns, and for the first time the public saw a series of pictures of the beauty of this underground wonderland and read something about the various rooms, their gigantic size, and the extent of the formation.
Dr. Lee's party didn't find a smooth paved road from the town of Carlsbad to the site of the Caverns. By contrast, the 28 miles of hilly, bumpy, dusty road were covered by automobile in about two hours. The road had been used primarily by the fertilizer companies in transporting the sacks of guano to Carlsbad for shipment to California.
At this time there were several dwellings at the entrance to the cave, an engine house and two hoisting shafts.
The exploring party engaged Jim White as a guide to accompanythem below. At this time Jim White probably knew the Caverns better than anyone else, for he had lived in the vicinity of the caves for more than a dozen years and had served as a guide for many persons who had made trips below to behold the beauties to be found there.
Jim had talked of the cave and its marvels to anyone who would listen, and for years had tried to stir up some enthusiasm for the wonders that lay beneath. He had explored much of the cave and could talk intelligently about it. Obviously, he was the best guide that Dr. Lee could have found.
The descent at that time was not a very glamorous undertaking. Dr. Lee's party entered, two at a time, by standing in an old iron guano bucket and letting the "elevator" engine slowly lower them more than 150 feet below the surface. The wire rope fastened to the bucket ran over a pulley at the top of the derrick and was manipulated by the engine. Dr. Lee was apprehensive of the contraption, but it never failed his party.
In that early and historical excursion into the great Caverns, Dr. Lee noted the weird, eerie effect the shadowy forms, high ceilings, and irregular floor and walls had on his group. They found it difficult to believe what they were seeing. Below, the opening above them became but a speck of light.
They noted the great distance from wall to wall, the many alcoves, the roughness of some walls, the polished smoothness of others.
Some distance from the foot of the shaft they came upon a large pit some 150 feet deep which they called Yeitso's Den. The name was later changed to the Devil's Den.
This part of the cave was much as the surging waters of the past several million years had left it. Travel was slow and dangerous. Steep walls had to be climbed and it was necessary to cut steps in the stone. The forward progress was indeed tedious in those early days.
Dr. Lee's report to the National Geographic Society was filled with descriptions of the colorful stalagmites and stalactites, the beautiful formations of flowstone and dripstone, and the subject matter to be seen in the formations all around them. He was equally impressed by the "chambers of unbelievable dimensions," some of which were "several hundred feet wide" and ceilings "so high our lights won't touch them."
He measured the smallest of three rooms which he entered after his journey down the main corridor, which he describes as "slow and laborious." The room measured 160 by 140 feet. "The middle room was three times this size, and the first room was even larger," he said.
He noted the "curtains" formed of onyx created by the deposit of lime carbonate dripping from above. The ceilings were found to be covered with curtains of these stalactites which had grown together during the ages. At times they met with stalagmites to form solid pillars of seemingly carved formations.
At times the floor was rough and covered with fallen blocks of stone. In other places it was quite smooth and flat, obviously the result of years of solutive action by water. Stalagmites do not grow in areas covered for any length of time by water, such as an underground pool. In one place the stalactites were so slender and numerous that Dr. Lee referred to them as resembling "a porcupine in posture of defense."
Dr. Lee's group gave names to many of the rooms and formations, many of which have since been changed. But one which has stuck with all explorers, both before and since Dr. Lee's excursion, is the Big Room. This underground colossus impresses everyone who sees it, and Dr. Lee hesitated to estimate its dimension. "Over half a mile long," he said at that time, "with a ceiling some 200 feet high."
Big as the room was, he felt it was equally remarkable for its numerous dripstone decorations, their variety and size. Some, he noted, rose to 50 feet in height.
He found some stalagmites were still "growing," for they were darker in color than those no longer alive, indicating the presence of water and continued growth. As the supply of water ceases they become lighter in color, almost powdery.
One of the largest he described were the Twin Domes, which he said were more than 100 feet high and some 200 feet across at the base. They are, today, much the same as he first observed them and are one of the favorite formations of all cave visitors.
In the light of Dr. Lee's primitive torchlight, the base showed up a dark green, with the grooved pillars light cream in color, both glittering and sparkling as the light struck them.
Other interesting observations by the party included the location of extinct seeps on the floor of the big room, the basins of whichwere up to about 50 feet in diameter, pedestals of onyx resembling toadstools and so called by the party, and an underground series of chambers through one of which flows a stream of clear water.
Dr. Lee's party was unprepared for the vastness and extent of the Caverns. Although his group had come prepared for a sizeable task, the job overwhelmed them. Although they mapped much of the underground passageways and rooms, they could see much was left undone.
But what they had done was enough to prompt the United States Government in declaring the site a National Monument. On October 30, 1923, Secretary Work announced that President Coolidge had proclaimed the area a National Monument.
Now it was official. If the government proclaimed it as a National Monument, it must be worth a visit. So thought many people throughout the land as they read about it in the many national magazines that ran descriptions of the Caverns based on Dr. Lee's findings.
My father's original holdings consisted of 20 acres. Now that the government had taken over, the size was increased to 700 acres.
Spurred by Dr. Lee's first exhaustive article in the National Geographic in January, 1924, people began to travel to this underground land of wonders. Diplomats, governors, people of all walks of life wanted a first-hand glimpse of what had been found.
There were no adequate facilities with which to accommodate them. Silk hats in guano buckets didn't look exactly right. Improvements were in order.
Dr. Lee reported how preliminary his work had been. More exploration was needed, and as a result he returned to the Caverns in the spring of 1924 in order to further extend the work he had started when he first saw them.
Exploration began the middle of March and lasted for six months, during the heat of the summer when it was as high as 115 in the shade—and, as Dr. Lee says, there was no shade. Yet inside the cave it remained about 56 degrees, which is constant the year around. During this time the party played host to the Governor of New Mexico, the Governor of Texas, the Director of National Parks, and many other high ranking dignitaries.
Dr. Lee and his party set up their camp at the mouth of the Big Cave, using tents and the rough board shacks left by the fertilizercompany years before. Their closest source of water was a spring about a mile away and their supply had to be carted by horse or burro.
While working in the cave the members of the party used kerosene torches, but upon discovering that these gave off more smoke than light they abandoned them in favor of gasoline lanterns.
In order to safeguard themselves, they would unravel balls of twine as they explored remote sections and passageways. In this way they could always find their way back to safety. Some of the members of the party were hesitant to wander far from the well-worn trails, apparently afraid of the unknown and admitting their weakness. Others allowed their curiosity to dominate their fears and were continually searching for new finds.
The party obtained its supplies from Carlsbad, about 28 miles away, and during the summer months the fruits and vegetables were kept in a special "refrigerator" in the cave where the cool, even temperature was put to constructive use.
The party's first task was to improve the various trails. Large rocks were pushed aside and, where this was not possible, safe ladders were constructed when the obstructions could not be circumvented.
On Dr. Lee's previous trip he did not explore the many small chambers and rooms leading off of the main halls and central areas. This time he made these deviations his specialty. Numerous nooks and corners were explored and mapped. Only those that for reason defied access were left alone and kept their secrets sealed within.
The entire party was amazed at the ornate beauty they found all around them. Many of the rooms were being seen by scientists for the first time, who would subsequently describe these colorful wonders so that all the world would know.
Of the Dome Room he later wrote "from the arched vault hang pendants of ornate character and on the wall are sheets of delicately colored onyx resembling portieres looped back in graceful folds. One is impelled to touch these folds before he is convinced that they are cold, hard stone."
In another chamber Dr. Lee noted how some of the stalactites would ring when struck lightly with a stone or metal instrument. Onethat was broken revealed a small trickle of water within. It was, said Dr. Lee, excellent drinking water.
Further on the party found a large hole which was 100 yards across and almost one third that deep. Onyx marble was to be seen all around, on the walls and the ceiling which was some 200 feet above the floor of this indentation.
Climbing down a wire ladder, Dr. Lee and his associates found several "fountain basins" many of which had a crust of onyx which resembled somewhat the ice that forms over a small body of water in the winter time, after which the water recedes leaving the thin sheet of ice suspended in air.
Other unusual formations were the many pisolites, small, spherical bodies of hard stone which jewelers call "cave pearls." Some were immovable while others were loose, probably never having been able to fasten themselves due to the continuous agitation caused either by a flow of water underneath them or from water above dripping down around them. These "cave pearls" grow from a tiny beginning through hundreds of years by the constant deposition of minute quantities of calcium carbonate left by the dripping or flowing water. Those still active are moist and glistening. The dead ones are pale, with a powdery, dull look. Because of the fact that these "pearls" resembled eggs in nests of stone, the room was called the Rookery, a name which has remained ever since.
In places where water drips at just the right frequency, the water will splash to the surrounding walls, leaving as it dries there its small particle of calcium carbonate. In places it hardens to form funnel shaped vases. In other places it dries too rapidly, leaving a soft powdery accumulation.
Still another formation was the "helictites" which are certain types of stalactites which didn't know which way to go. They appear to defy the laws of gravity, for they may start in one direction and then dart off in another direction. Such formations were caused by certain types of crystallization. Some chemicals will "grow" upward as they dry and expand, and this is probably one explanation, although it may not apply in every case.
By the early fall in 1924, when Dr. Lee and his party had completed this second thorough study of the Caverns, he was most enthusiastic about what he had seen. His observation at that time describesthe underground wonders exceptionally well. Telling about the exploration in September, 1925, issue of the National Geographic, he said:
"The Carlsbad Cavern, New Mexico, is the most spectacular of underground wonders in America! For spacious chambers, for variety and beauty of multitudinous natural decorations, and for general scenic quality, it is king of its kind."
The party had covered a total of some 23 miles, which they had patiently mapped and surveyed, photographed, and described. The "rediscovery" had now been completed—and in grand style. The next descent into the great cave was to be by the public itself, and in ever-increasing numbers.
In order to meet this onrush of sightseers, improvement of the interior of the Caverns and the approach from above ground was deemed necessary. Now that the area was a National Monument, the Government gave its attention to the area. Because of his great interest in, and knowledge of the Caverns, Dr. Lee was appointed the first custodian. He served without pay. Jim White became an unofficial guide, later being appointed a park ranger by the National Park Service, finally becoming chief ranger.
Now, with some system of procedure mapped out, improvements began in earnest. All of the major trails were greatly enlarged and smoothed over so that their passage by the public would be safe. Lighting of the halls and chambers was also begun, although most of the illumination was furnished by the lanterns carried by the guides and members of touring parties.
In 1927 the Government could see the Caverns were beginning to take hold as a show place, a vacation mecca, and additional help would be required. They sought a man who could take complete charge for the Government. Someone suggested a man who was at that time in charge of the volcanoes on the Hawaiian Islands, Colonel Thomas Boles. Here, they felt, was a man who could do what was necessary at the great Caverns, and as a result Colonel Boles was appointed the first Superintendent in that year.
During the cave trips at this time everyone carried a box lunch, for a full scale trip below required the best part of a day. With the increasing attendance the government decided an underground lunchroom would be an added convenience for the visitors.
CARLSBAD CAVERNS WITH SURFACE SUPERIMPOSEDClick on map to view larger sized image.
Click on map to view larger sized image.
Accordingly, in 1927, a suitable room over 700 feet below was selected for this purpose, one of the guiding factors being that it was located approximately at the point where the visitors passed at noon-day.
Picnic tables were set up and box lunches provided cafeteria style to the hungry travelers whose appetites were heightened by the brisk journey in the ever-cool atmosphere.
As interest in the Caverns continued to increase, the Government realized the site was worthy of more than simply a monument rating. The matter was taken up before Congress two years later, and on May 14, 1930, Congress voted to make the area a National Park.
It is also significant that it was at this time that the official name became the Carlsbad Caverns National Park, the big caves being named for the town of the same name some 28 miles northeast and which has always served as the chief supply point for the vicinity.
The surface area was also enlarged at this time and was extended to include several more acres. On February 21, 1933, it was enlarged to include more than 10,000 acres.
It was at this time that the greatest improvement yet to be made at the Caverns was undertaken. This was the installation of the elevator, which was completed in 1932. The lift is 754 feet and shortens the walk-in trip by about one and three-quarter hours. The elevator lets its passengers out at a point adjacent to the Big Room and the lunchroom. Installation of the elevator made it possible for elderly people and those who were not physically capable of walking in through the natural tunnel corridor to view the magic wonders of the great subterranean fairyland. As soon as it was completed, a great many more people came to see the great Caverns.
Walking into the Caverns is a thrill within itself and, since the trail is downhill, few people find it much of a chore. Going out is something else again, and the great majority of people who walk in are glad for the opportunity of taking the elevator up to the surface 754 feet above them.
In 1939 the Park was extended to include some 49,000 acres, and within this area are 30 other caverns, some of which have been quite extensively explored while others are relatively unknown. In the main, most of them are similar, though none begin to compare withthe Carlsbad Caverns in size, and the details and formations often differ as well.
Three years later the Government purchased the east wing from T. A. Blakely. This was the section lying for the most part over the guano beds which in previous years had been worked so extensively. The purchase of this last segment put the entire known area of the great cave in the hands of the government.
In 1946, Colonel Boles, the park's first superintendent, who had served through 19 pioneering years, was transferred to Hot Springs National Park. By that time he had spoken to well over 2 million visitors, many of whom were world famous. He says he has made over 5,000 complete trips through the Caverns and on each "I saw something I missed before." Much of the early progress was due directly to Colonel Boles' leadership and foresight. Today, having retired from the National Park Service, he makes his home in Carlsbad, where he serves as public relations counsel for the Potash Company of America.
Donald S. Libbey followed Colonel Boles as Superintendent of the Caverns and he in turn was succeeded by R. Taylor Hoskins. During the first eight years of his office, Supt. Hoskins says almost 3,000,000 people paid to see the limestone creations which many have tabbed "The Eighth Wonder of the World." Those who make the underground tour come away feeling that appellation can't be far from right.
Though the government spent some money years ago in improving the Caverns and preparing them for visitors to see in safety, the returns on that investment are now counted. Although the park receives somewhat over a quarter of a million dollars appropriation from the federal government each year, it returns almost twice that amount, the sum being obtained from tourist fees and similar income.
Yes, these first fifty years have indeed seen many changes within the Caverns. Nature's work has been protected and left intact, but the lights, the lunchroom, the elevator, the improved trails, and the many other improvements have been made by man for man's enjoyment of what the ages have bestowed—what the centuries have given him to see and enjoy.
Already people from the four corners of the globe have beaten a track to the Caverns' door, to behold in amazement and wonder andawe. Many millions more will come in the years ahead, and their children in the years after that. Here, some 700 and 1000 feet below the surface of the earth they will marvel at the work of the centuries—that began some 60,000,000 years ago.