WHITE CROCUSES IN GRASSWHITE CROCUSES IN GRASS
WHITE CROCUSES IN GRASS
The hybrid Montbretias are now so well known as to need no commendation, and the constant production of new varieties renders it inexpedient to give a list of varieties. While they are perfectly hardy in some gardens, in others they must be protected in a similar manner to the Crocosmias. It is also desirable to lift them and replant a few inches apart when they show signs of flowering unsatisfactorily. Otherwise they may be treated like the Crocosmias. They like a sunny, but not too dry, place in the garden.
Crocuses
Crocuses are such brilliant and beautiful flowers that one need not occupy space with their praises. Their use in beds, borders, pots, or in grass is necessary if we are to enjoy our gardens to the full. While the popular Dutch varieties, whose names will be found in any bulb catalogue, will retain their place in the garden, they will be largely supplemented by the different species by whose aid the interest in these flowers will be much increased. By their help we can not only extend the Crocus season, so as to have flowers in autumn and winter as well as in spring, but they will also give us new colours and markings of much beauty. The autumn Crocuses are of much value. The earliest is C. vallicola, with creamy flowers, but it is not very hardy and wants a frame. Speciosus and its larger form Aitchisoni are of great service with their blue-purple blooms. Zonatus, pulchellus, iridiflorus, and iridiflorus major are all good, as also are lævigatus, cancellatus, with its variety asturicus, hadriaticus, medius, nudiflorus, ochroleucus, Salzmanni, and Tournefortii. Sativus, the old Saffron Crocus, is showy, but is a shy bloomer in most gardens. Its forms, cartwrightianus, elwesianus, and Pallasii are better flowerers. Scharojani should have a frame. White varieties of some of these Croci are highly prized.
The winter-flowering Croci are also very beautiful, and with the protection of a little glass over them in bad weather will give much pleasure, especially in December or January, when other out-door flowers are scarce. Chrysanthus, which varies much in colour; Imperati, a valuable species; the charming Sieberi, dalmaticus, etruscus, Gaillardotti, the yellow Korolkowii, nevadensis, the orange suterianus, and the pretty suaveolens, might be included and protected by glass covers from the storms.
Following these come the spring Croci: aureus, said to be the parent of the Dutch yellow, giving us shades of some variety; while biflorus yields some very beautiful forms, such as argenteus, estriatus, Pestalozzœ, pusillus, and Weldeni. Then, apart from the Dutch varieties, vernus gives a number of forms, George Maw, Leedsi, leucorhynchus, leucostigma, and Petro Polowsky being among the most distinct of these. Alatavicus, ancyrensis, banaticus, Balansæ, corsicus, Fleischeri, gargaricus, Malyi, Olivieri, reticulatus, stellaris, susianus, the varied versicolor, and the charming tommasinianus will give many exquisite pictures. These will give little trouble if planted, in early autumn, about three inches deep in rather light, peaty soil. Growing Crocuses from seed is very interesting work, and may be productive of excellent results. Crocuses in pots should be planted close together, and the pots plunged outside until growth begins.
Cyclamens — Dicentras — Dieramas — Eranthis — Eremuruses — Erythroniums — Eucomises
Cyclamens
The hardy Cyclamens or Sowbreads are charming little flowers which grow well under the shade of trees or in the rock-garden. They like a rich, but light soil, with a few stones mixed with it, and to be planted an inch or two beneath the surface. The earliest and one of the best is C. Coum, which has pretty crimson flowers about January. There are a pleasing white variety and a few other colours such as rose and lilac. Libanoticum is later and has large flowers and leaves. Ibericum succeeds these, and the Atkinsi varieties are very beautiful, in various shades from white to purple. Cilicicum and alpinum are tiny little species with red or white flowers and small leaves, and are best suited for the rock-garden. Europæum, red or lilac, in August, is more difficult to grow, but likes shade and partial covering with a low carpeting plant. The best of the late species is neapolitanum, or hederæfolium, which has prettily marked leaves succeeding the red or white flowers which come in autumn. These plants can be raised from seeds sown as soon as ripe, or in spring.
Dicentras
A few of the tuberous-rooted Dicentras or Dielytras deserve mention here. Among them are Cucullaria, white and yellow, and about three inches high; and spectabilis, a well-known and handsome plant, which needs shelter from cold spring winds. They like a light, peaty soil and some shade.
Dieramas
The known species of Dierama, known in gardens as Sparaxis, are pendula and pulcherrimum. Both are graceful hardy flowers with long stems, arching over and bearing many loosely hanging bells of various shades of purple, and even white. The one mostly seen in British gardens is pulcherrimum, which has stems from four to six feet long; pendula being a little less robust. They are rather difficult to establish, and like to be planted under stones. Plant in spring about four inches deep.
Eranthis, Winter Aconite
The Eranthis or Winter Aconite would receive more attention were it not so cheap, but it should be largely planted in moist and shady places, which it brightens up early in the season. Either in the border, rock-garden, or grass, it is very effective when in a mass. It may be grown from seed. The species generally grown is Eranthis hyemalis, but recently a species, named E. cilicicus, which blooms later, and has deeper coloured flowers, with a less ornamental "ruff," has been introduced. It is scarcely so hardy as E. hyemalis. The Winter Aconite will grow in almost any soil which does not become too dry. It should be as short a time out of the soil as possible.
Eremuruses
The Eremuri are among the noblest of our hardy flowers with tuberous roots, and are exceedingly ornamental with their magnificent spikes of flower. They may be planted in autumn or in spring, though the first is the better time, unless the plants are in pots. There is much difference of opinion among growers regarding their requirements in the way of sun or shade. Much depends upon the gardens, and the writer has seen plants equally good with a north or north-west aspect, and in other places with a due south exposure. In the latter case, however, there is more danger from spring frosts. The crown should be about two inches beneath the surface, and the soil should be light and rich, although it may have a hard bottom. Protect with dry litter, and keep a good lookout for slugs when growth begins. Cover if there is danger of frost in spring, and give plenty of water during the growing period.
EREMURUS ROBUSTUSEREMURUS ROBUSTUS
EREMURUS ROBUSTUS
The best blooming species, and among the most beautiful, is E. himalaicus, with white flowers, and sometimes eight feet high, but generally less. Robustus, with its variety elwesianus, grow taller, and have charming flesh-coloured flowers. Olgæ, with whitish flowers, is very beautiful, and Bungei is among the best of the yellow species, though caucasicus and spectabilis are also good yellow Eremuri.
Erythroniums
The Erythroniums or Dog's Tooth Violets are delightful little spring flowers, which are becoming increasingly appreciated. All are very beautiful, their marbled or mottled foliage adding to their other attractions. Some of the Dutch named sorts, such as Blanca, Von Humboldt, Rubens, Rouge Trappeuse, &c., are of a large size, and are very pleasing. The colours of the common Dens-canis vary from white to rose and purple or violet, and all the plants do well in the border, but better still in grass. In warm gardens they do best in shade, but in others they require sun. The American Erythroniums are very beautiful, but should generally have a sunnier place than the others. They like a rather light soil, but americanum, which has yellow flowers, prefers one of a heavier nature, and, to induce flowering, should have its roots in a confined space. Albidum has whitish flowers; giganteum has from one to six whitish flowers with a yellow base and mottled leaves; grandiflorum has from three to ten yellow flowers on a stem, and unmottled leaves; and nuttallianum has a shorter stem with smaller flowers than the last, of which it is a variety.
Hartwegi, Bolanderi, montanum, citrinum, purpurascens, and Howelli have all yellow or whitish flowers. Of these, Hartwegi is the earliest, and Howelli among the most beautiful.
Revolutum, Johnsoni, and Hendersoni have all exquisite rose or purple flowers. Propullans has small rose-coloured blooms. Bolanderi is sometimes sold as Smithii or grandiflorum var. Smithii. Japonicum and sibiricum are fine Asiatic forms of Dens-canis, with handsome purple or rosy purple flowers.
Eucomises
The curious looking Eucomises are hardier than is generally believed, and may be grown in the border or in front of a greenhouse or stove, with a little covering of litter in winter. Although not showy, they are worth growing for their long spikes of whitish flowers, spotted with rose, and their long mottled foliage. They like a light, but not poor soil. Punctata is probably the hardiest, but regia and bicolor are also hardy if planted about six inches deep.
Fritillarias — Funkias — Galanthuses — Galtonias — Gladioli — Hemerocallises
Fritillarias
Although many of the Fritillarias are more distinguished for their singularity than for the brilliance of their colouring, there are few more interesting garden plants. The native species, F. meleagris, is varied in colour and in depth of markings, and the Dutch have raised some pretty named varieties. The white form, F. m. alba, is very beautiful. The varieties of the broad-leaved form of Meleagris are but little grown in Great Britain. There are now many pretty species which are quite as easy to grow, but which do not need such a damp position as suits F. meleagris best, although it grows in dry soil as well. Recurva has beautiful scarlet and yellow flowers, but is difficult to establish. Aurea, with yellow flowers and of dwarf habit, is more easily grown, and is the brightest of the yellow Snake's Head Lilies. Pallidiflora, with pale yellow flowers, is distinct; and the pretty armena gives several varieties with flowers varying from greenish to bright yellow and red. Walujewi is very fine; and Moggridgei is well worth trying also. Acmopetala is a fine, tall species; and such species as Burnati, citrina, lanceolata, lusitanica, lutea, oranensis, pudica, pyrenaica, ruthenica, and Thunbergii are all of interest to those who care for such flowers.
The Crown Imperial, F. imperialis, is so well known that its noble appearance and its value for the garden need no praise. There are several varieties, which range in colour from pale yellow to deep red. In addition, we have a form, called "Crown upon Crown," which has two tiers of flowers; one with a fasciated stem; and two with variegated leaves, one having white and the other yellow margins, and bands on the leaves. These make fine plants. The smaller Fritillarias should be planted about two inches, and the Crown Imperials about four inches deep. The latter like a good rich soil, and all should be as short a time out of the ground as possible. All can be grown in pots.
Funkias
Funkias, or Plantain Lilies, are among the most ornamental of our hardy flowers, and look exceedingly ornamental in borders or by the margin of water, where their fine leaves are in keeping with their surroundings. They all like some shade, but to induce F. subcordata (syn. grandiflora) to flower well it should have a warm, sunny place. They are best planted in spring. F. lancifolia has pretty leaves and purple flowers. There are several varieties, such as undulata, alba, variegata, and albo-marginata. Ovata has handsome large leaves and purple flowers, and the variety aurea-variegata is particularly fine. Sieboldiana has ornamental foliage and pale lilac flowers. It and the variety marmorata, with marbled foliage, are fine for groups. Fortunei and its variety variegata are both splendid plants, and glauca is another good species.
Galanthuses
The Galanthus, or Snowdrop, is one of our chastest and most beautiful flowers, and its pure blossoms are universally appreciated. It is more varied in character and in its time of blooming than many are aware of. The earliest Snowdrops come into bloom in autumn or early winter, and lovers of the flower who wish to grow these interesting varieties, which are forms of G. nivalis, the common Snowdrop, will find that G. corcyrensis and G. octobrensis are those most easily procured. They require a rather light and sandy soil. In their general appearance they closely resemble the common form of G. nivalis, but are generally recognisable by the light colour of the line which runs up the centre of the leaf. Others blooming about the same season are G. Rachelæ and G. Elsæ. These flowers show a tendency to draw nearer to the spring Snowdrops as they become established. There are too many varieties of the common Snowdrop in existence to detail, but one may name Melvillei, a splendid flower of great beauty; poculiformis, which has the inner and outer segments of almost equal length; Scharloki, which has separated spathes and a green spot at the base of each outer segment; and æstivalis and Gusmusi, two late forms, as representative, if we exclude a number of named varieties which have been raised by Mr James Allen and others. The so-called "Yellow Snowdrops" have yellow instead of green markings and ovaries. The best are G. lutescens and G. flavescens.
The Italian sub-species Imperati gives us some handsome flowers, larger than those of our native Snowdrop; the finest is the variety Atkinsi, a noble Galanthus. The sub-species caucasicus is principally noteworthy as giving us the form virescens, which has its flowers all flushed with green outside.
One of the finest Snowdrops is G. Elwesii, from Asia Minor, of which there are many local and seedling forms. That sold as ochrospeilus, and the large variety named Whittalli, are equal to any other of the wild forms. G. Elwesii is not long-lived in many gardens. It seems to prefer a rather moist, peaty soil.
G. latifolius is a very distinct Snowdrop with broad, bright green leaves. Unfortunately, it is rather too delicate for our climate, and the newer G. Ikariæ is preferable. It has handsome bright green leaves, with arching habit, and pretty flowers.
G. plicatus, the Crimean Snowdrop, is troublesome because of the unaccountable way in which it often disappears. It is, however, so fine and distinct, with its revolute leaves, that it should be tried. Hybrids between it and G. Elwesii are often hardier than either of the parents. G. byzantinus may be a hybrid of this parentage.
It is needless to refer to the cultivation of the Snowdrop further than to say that it seems to do best planted in the grass, and that it is much finer in a rather moist, peaty soil. When grown in pots it should not have much heat.
Galtonias
Galtonia, or Hyacinthus, candicans is the best of the three species which constitute the genus. It is a noble plant, whose white, drooping bells look remarkably handsome, especially when associated with such plants as the scarlet Gladiolus brenchleyensis. It should be planted in spring, about six inches deep. Although hardy in most gardens, in some it must be lifted and stored in winter, or well protected with dry ashes or litter.
Gladioli
While the magnificent hybrid Gladioli are not hardy in the greater number of gardens, and are therefore referred to along with half-hardy bulbs, it will be found desirable to attempt their cultivation in warm localities as hardy flowers, planting deeply and giving them a little protection in the way of a mulch of dry litter in autumn, and removing it in spring. We have, however, a few species which are quite hardy, although some are the better of a little protection for the first winter. The hardiest of these is Gladiolus byzantinus, a species with small, rosy-purple flowers, but the following others may also be grown as ordinary border flowers: communis, segetum, serotinus, illyricus, and neglectus. Then the varieties of the early-flowering Gladioli named in catalogues may be accounted almost hardy on light dry soils, especially if protected for a winter after being planted. Such forms as Colvillei, The Bride, and almost all the other early bloomers are amenable to this treatment. Plant them about six inches deep in a sunny position.
GLADIOLUS "THE BRIDE"GLADIOLUS "THE BRIDE"
GLADIOLUS "THE BRIDE"
Hemerocallises
The Day Lilies are very ornamental plants, although their usefulness in the garden is reduced by the individual blooms only lasting for the one day. The number available for gardens has been increased by varieties raised by hybridisation and cross-breeding, and some of these are of much value. Auriantiaca major, a fine plant introduced within the last few years, is shy in flowering and wants a good soil and a warm, sunny position. It has rich orange flowers. The others grow in a sunny position in ordinary soil. Dumortieri, orange, brown outside, grows about one foot high; flava has pretty yellow blooms, on stems about two feet high, in June; fulva is taller, and has more coppery flowers. There are double-flowered and variegated-leaved varieties of fulva, the form fl.-pl. variegata being very fine. Middendorfii has orange flowers, and is about one foot high; Thunbergi resembles flava, but blooms a month later. Minor, or graminea, is of dwarf habit, and has yellow flowers. Hybrid, or seedling forms of merit are Apricot, Dr Regel, Flamid, Frances, luteola, and Sovereign.
Hyacinths — Hyacinths in Pots — Scillas — Puschkinias — Chionodoxas — Chionoscillas — Muscaris
This group of bulbs is one of the most valuable, their bright colours and beautiful forms giving the garden much of its attraction in their season.
Hyacinths
The garden Hyacinths, the offspring of H. orientalis, are fine for beds or for groups or lines in borders, although too stiff for planting in grass. They like a good, but light, soil, well enriched with thoroughly rotted cow-manure, and may be planted three inches deep in a sunny position in October. There are so many good varieties that intending growers would do well to consult the catalogues of dealers and select from them. Mixed Hyacinths are sold at a cheap rate.
Hyacinths in Pots and Glasses
There need be little difficulty experienced in growing Hyacinths in pots, glasses, or jardinets, if proper care is exercised and the bulbs have been properly grown and well-matured the previous season. The pretty early varieties, popularly known as Roman Hyacinths, are very useful, and may be had in bloom at various times by potting at intervals from August onwards, about six bulbs being required for a forty-eight size pot. They like a light rich compost, such as may be made of good fibrous loam, with the addition of well-decayed cow-manure, leaf-soil, and sharp sand; three parts of the first to one each of the second and third being a good proportion. The bulbs should be barely covered, and the pots plunged in ashes and covered with these until the roots have made free growth, when the pots may go into a frame or greenhouse. When the buds show, the pots may be put in bottom heat in a temperature of sixty-five to seventy degrees. The white Roman is the one generally grown for early work, but blush, blue, and straw-coloured forms are also to be had, and form a pleasing change. The large Hyacinths may be grown in a similar compost, although one lighter and richer gives good results. They are potted with the crown just above the surface, and plunged in ashes or fibre in a pit, frame, or open ground. When the spikes show above the ashes they may be taken in and forced if desired. A temperature of about seventy degrees is the highest which should be allowed.
When Hyacinths are grown in water in glasses good sound bulbs must be selected. The water should almost touch the base of the bulb, and a little piece of charcoal should be placed in the glass. After putting in the bulbs the glasses ought to be placed in a cool, dark place, until the roots make their appearance, when they may be brought into the light. Hyacinths may also be grown in moss, Jadoo, and cocoa-fibre and charcoal, and even in sand. Bulbs which have been grown in pots and glasses can afterwards be planted outside.
Other Hyacinths
For early flowering in a sunny place in the rock-garden, the lovely H. azureus, or Muscari azureum, should be grown. It flowers in January or February, and has spikes of small blue flowers. The form freynianum is hardier, but is a little later.
The charming little H. amethystinus, with blue flowers, and its white variety albus, only a few inches high, are bright May-flowering bulbs for the border or rock-garden. They like a light soil.
The Scillas, or Squills, are numerous and important garden flowers. Our native Scilla nutans is pretty in the wild-garden, but it is surpassed by the larger flowers and spikes of S. campanulata or hispanica, the Spanish Squill, which is very beautiful in the garden or the grass. Like our native Scilla, it has sported into several colours, and these show some diversity of quality. The pink and the white varieties of this called rosea grandiflora, Rose Queen, and alba compacta, are all pleasing; as also are grandiflora, deep blue; Emperor, porcelain, striped blue; and aperta, blue, striped white. Less showy, but very delightful, are the early Squills, such as S. bifolia and S. sibirica. These bloom about March, and give some variety of colour. Bifolia is the more variable, and gives us the white variety, alba; a flesh-coloured one, called carnea; and a pink, named rubra. Some new forms, such as Pink Beauty and White Queen, are not in commerce. The typical bifolia and the variety taurica, both blue, are very pretty. S. sibirica is of different habit, though equally dwarf, and has larger, drooping flowers of a fine blue. The variety taurica blooms earlier. S. sibirica alba is one of the greatest acquisitions of recent years, and has charming pure-white flowers. It is a gem for the borders or for pots. Slugs are very fond of S. sibirica. S. verna is a beautiful native Squill, seldom seen in gardens, but its lilac-blue flowers are most attractive. Its white and rose forms are hardly to be met with. S. italica is a somewhat neglected April and May blooming species, with pretty conical heads of light blue flowers. The white variety alba, though scarce, is obtainable, and is a charming plant. Scilla autumnalis likes a light soil, and a warm, dry place on the rockery. It flowers in autumn, and is worth some trouble to establish for the sake of its blue flowers. The pink form, japonica, is desirable.
Ciliaris, hyacinthoides, and peruviana are highly ornamental in the border, with their large heads of flowers in summer, and their broad foliage; they are, however, shy bloomers in some soils after the first year, and want thorough ripening off after blooming.
A Scilla little seen in gardens is Lilio-hyacinthus, which has broad leaves, large bulbs with scales, like those of a Lily, and pretty bluish flowers. There is a rare white variety, but the pink form seems to have been lost.
Puschkinias are pretty bulbous plants allied to the Scillas, and producing neat spikes of porcelain-blue or whitish flowers lined with blue. They are easily grown on light soil, but require protection from slugs when they first appear. They bloom in March, and there is only one species in cultivation—scilloides—the variety compacta having a denser spike.
Chionodoxas deserve all the praise they have received, although in our climate they do not come, as a rule, when we have snow, so that the popular name of "Glory of the Snow" is not so appropriate as in their native country. The best known is C. Luciliæ, which has blue flowers with a large white eye. The greater number of the others are distinct enough for garden purposes, although classed by botanists as varieties of this species. Sardensis is a favourite, with its smaller, deeper coloured flowers, with hardly any white in the centre. Gigantea and Alleni are nearly alike, but the latter has more flowers on the stem, and is deeper in colour. Tmolusii is the latest to bloom of these varieties; it resembles Luciliæ, but is of a deeper, more purplish-blue. There are pink, and also white varieties of all these. Cretica is the least effective of the genus, with the exception of the scarce nana, which is a charming, if not showy little flower, almost white and lined with blue.
The Chionoscillas are hybrids between the Chionodoxas and Scillas, S. bifolia being one of the parents of nearly all the forms in existence. These are interesting and pretty in their varied shades of blue or pink. Seedlings from Chionodoxas do not always come true to the parent, but may revert to one or other of its ancestors.
Muscaris are so numerous, and many resemble each other so closely, that it is needless to attempt to grow more than a selection. Few are prettier than the common M. botryoides, the Grape Hyacinth, which drew from Ruskin words of praise familiar to many. It is very beautiful, and its only fault is its rapid increase. Some of its varieties are prized by those who grow them. The larger of the two white varieties, known as album grandiflorum, and pallidum grandiflorum, with pale blue flowers, are both pretty.
M. racemosum, the Starch Grape Hyacinth, is also pretty, with its large spikes of deep-coloured flowers; there is a pink form, and a scarce white one is also met with. A fine Grape Hyacinth is M. conicum, with brilliant blue flowers in large racemes. M. Heldreichi is one of the earliest and best, with its long spike of blue flowers, each broadly margined with white. M. szovitzianum is a small, rather light-blue species of considerable beauty. M. armeniacum is a good little Grape Hyacinth. M. latifolium is very distinct, with its broad leaves.
M. comosum, the Tufted Hyacinth, is an interesting plant, but it is surpassed for the garden by the form monstrosum, which has curiously pretty frizzed blooms. It ought to be more grown.
The Musk Hyacinths are worth growing, if for nothing but their odour, although they are pretty as well. They are, however, not satisfactory everywhere, and often fail to bloom after the first season. They should have a warm, dry border, where the bulbs will ripen off well. Moschatum and macrocarpum are worthy of a trial at least.
Irises — Kniphofias — Lapeyrousias — Leucojums
Irises
As a separate volume of this series to treat fully of the Iris is contemplated, only a briefrésuméof the genus, with a few general cultural hints, are required at the present time.
Irises, which supply plants suitable for almost any position in the garden, are naturally divided into two great groups, the first having a short rhizomatous root-stock, and the other one of a bulbous character. Each of these is divided into separate sections, about which it may be said that no common treatment can be dictated. The sub-genus Apogon, which comprises the beardless Flag Irises, embraces plants which require totally different treatment. Thus, unguicularis, or stylosa, likes a dry, stony soil, while sibirica and others prefer a moist one. The plants of the sub-genus Pardanthopsis have flowers like the Apogon Irises, but are without the crest. They generally prefer a moist, well-drained soil. The Oncocyclus, or "Cushion" Irises, are much prized for their singular beauty, but are not easily grown in gardens, unless in frames, where they can have a long period of rest before they start into growth in winter, or lifted and dried. This rest should begin immediately after they flower. They like lime in the soil.
The Regelia Irises form the link between the last and the Pogon Irises, and should have similar treatment to the Cushion Irises. The Evansea section contains some pretty plants, which often do well in dry places. They have a pretty crest on the flower. The plant grown by the Japanese on the roofs of their houses (I. tectorum) belongs to this group. Pseudevansea Irises have a beard which springs from a rudimentary crest, and otherwise much resemble the Evansea section, but few are in cultivation.
The Pogon Irises form the most important section of non-bulbous Irises in gardens, and are distinguished by the beard down the claw and lower part of the blade. They will thrive almost anywhere, but should, as a rule, have sun. They do well on walls and roofs. The familiar "German" Irises will give a good idea of the appearance of all the plants of this sub-genus.
The bulbous Irises are very beautiful, but details as to their treatment cannot be given now. For cutting, the Spanish Iris (I. Xiphium) is very useful and it makes a fine bedding or border plant. It prefers a rather dry soil, but should be lifted and replanted every two years or so. The English Iris (I. Xiphioides) prefers a stronger and moister soil, and is a beautiful plant in the garden.
I. reticulata and its forms belong to this section and are charming in the garden or in pots, though liable to a troublesome disease, which is best checked by lifting the bulbs and destroying those which are much affected. The sub-genus Gynandiris contains only one species, I. Sisyrinchium, which is not absolutely hardy and should be grown in a frame. Several of the Juno section, such as persica, alata, and palæstina, are best in frames, but I. orchioides is quite hardy and makes a fine border or rockery plant. The Hermodactylus section consists of I. tuberosus, which is native to some parts of the South of England, and is a curious and interesting species worth a place in gardens.
Kniphofias
The Kniphofias or Tritomas are among the most brilliant of our garden flowers and are of gorgeous effect in lines or masses in the garden. The greater number are hardy in most gardens, particularly if the crowns of the tuberous roots are planted about three inches below the surface of the soil, and the old leaves fastened together at the top to throw off winter rains. One of the most dependable species is Aloides (syn. Uvaria) of which there are many varieties varying in colour from pale yellow to deep red. Grandis, nobilis, and Saundersii are all good forms. Burchelli, a dwarf species with red and yellow flowers is pretty; caulescens, corallina, foliosa, Nelsoni, and modesta are also worth growing. Macowani and pumila are pleasing dwarf species. There are many hybrid forms, such as Autumn Glory, Chloris, Clotho, Diana, Lachesis, Obelisque, Osiris, Pfitzeri, Robert Cannell, and Star of Baden Baden. Rooperi is an almost continuous bloomer; Tuckii is a free flowerer; and Leichtlini and the variety distachya are distinct Kniphofias. These noble flowers should be planted in spring. They are easily raised from seeds. They like plenty of moisture in summer.
Lapeyrousias
The Lapeyrousias or Anomathecas are brilliant little bulbous plants with blood-red flowers which look remarkably effective in shady places. They are hardy in warm places in light soil, but in cold localities should be grown in a frame. They ought to be planted two or three inches deep and covered with litter for a winter or two. They produce seeds freely and these should be scattered in suitable places and covered over with a little soil. The one usually seen is L. cruenta, but there is also one, called grandiflora, with larger flowers.
SNOWFLAKESSNOWFLAKES
SNOWFLAKES
Leucojum
The Leucojum, or Snowflake, ought to be more largely grown in the flower garden or in grass, where its white, drooping bells look charming. The Spring Snowflake, L. vernum, is among the most beautiful with its large, handsome white flowers, each tipped with a green spot on each outer segment. There are several forms, that sold as carpaticum being early and pretty. There are also yellow-spotted forms which are of much beauty, and one of these seems to be the true carpaticum. Miss Hope's variety is the latest Spring Snowflake. The Summer Snowflake is less pleasing because of its habit, but it is a pretty and useful flower. There are two or three varieties of L. æstivum, one known as L. pulchellum being a little earlier than the other L. æstivum and having smaller flowers. The autumn Snowflake, L. autumnale or Acis autumnalis, is an exquisite little bulb with white blossoms, tinged with rose. It flowers in July or August and likes a sandy soil; the others will grow in any good compost. Plant about two inches deep, and as soon as they can be procured.
Liliums — Liliums in Pots — Malvastrum — Merenderas — Millas — Narcissi — Narcissi in Pots
Liliums
The Lily is the noblest of bulbous plants, and it is to be regretted that its cultivation often presents insuperable difficulties in many gardens. There are a few species which can be grown almost anywhere, it is true, but the greater number require special conditions of soil or climate. As this noble plant may form the subject of a separate work in this series, I shall only give a brief summary of the leading species and their requirements for the benefit of the general reader.
The easiest to grow in the garden are those which are satisfied with ordinary, well-dug soil, with the addition of some leaf-soil, if it is heavy, or some loam, if light. This class comprises the favourite candidum, the Madonna Lily, of which there are several varieties, such as one with a golden margin to the leaves; spicatum, also known as flore pleno, which has partly double flowers; and striatum, with flowers streaked purple outside. There are also chalcedonicum, with scarlet "Turk's-cap" flowers and its variety Heldreichii; the dark-hued hybrid dalhansoni; bulbiferum; the pretty concolor, with its forms Coridion and pulchellum; the brilliant croceum; dauricum, known as umbellatum in some gardens; the pretty elegans (syn. thunbergianum); the good yellow Hansoni; and that comparatively new Lily, Henryi. In this soil, also, can be grown the exquisite longiflorum, with its trumpet-shaped blooms, and its varieties giganteum, eximium (Wilsoni of some), foliis albo-marginatus, Takesima, Harrisii, and præcox. The hybrid Marhan thrives in the same soil, as also do the typical Martagon; the pretty pomponium; the strongly-scented pyrenaicum; and the ever popular speciosum (syn. lancifolium), of which there are so many good varieties, such as album Krætzeri, album novum, Melpomene, roseum superbum, cruentum and punctatum. To these may be added the pretty tenuifolium; the well-known tigrinum, with its forms splendens, Fortunei, and fl. A selection of varieties of L. elegans would include such as Alice Wilson, alutaceum, atrosanguineum, aurantiacum, Batemani, often called L. Batemanniæ, Horsmanni, Flore-pleno, Prince of Orange, Van Houttei, and Wilsoni. There are also a number of varieties of umbellatum.
The following Lilies require a deep and well-dug friable loam, lightened with sand and leaf-soil if of a clayey nature:—
Alexandræ, a fine new Lily; the splendid auratum with its many forms, of which platyphyllum, rubrovittatum, virginale and Wittei may be named; Bolanderi; Brownii; callosum; columbianum, giganteum and the allied cordifolium; the fine Humboldtii; the rather unsatisfactory japonicum, better known as Krameri; japonicum Colchesteri; Leichtlinii; Lowii, neilgherrense. Martagon album; M. dalmaticum; M. cataniæ; nepalense; pulchellum; the pretty new rubellum; rubescens; sulphureum; monadelphum or szovitzianum—a well proved species—Wallacei, and washingtonianum. Although these all do with the compost named, unfortunately some are almost impossible to grow in ordinary gardens.
The following like a moist peaty soil, although some can be grown without this, but it is safer to study their likings:—canadense with its varieties; carniolicum; Grayii; maritimum; pardalinum, with its varieties californicum, Bourgæi, Johnsoni, minor, and Michauxii; Parryi; parvum; philadelphicum; Roezlii; and superbum.
In planting Lilies, they should have the crowns from four to six inches below the surface, and should be surrounded with some sharp sand. In heavy soil it is desirable to plant the bulbs on their sides.
Lilies in Pots
Lilies make beautiful pot plants, and in pots their cultivation is very simple. Fibrous loam, peat, and a little decayed manure and sand will grow them well. It is a good practice not to cover the bulbs too deeply at first, and to add soil afterwards as growth is made and roots formed at the base of the stems. Watering must be carefully applied, so as to give enough without souring the soil. Plunge the pots in frames, and bring them in when growth is so far completed, or place outside in sheltered positions until they show flower. Repotting is best done as soon as the stems are quite withered.
Malvastrum Gilliesii
This is a very pretty little trailing rock garden plant, with tuberous roots, and only a few inches high. It likes a sunny place, but must not suffer from drought in summer. The flowers are of a bright crimson-purple. It is hardy in a sheltered rockery.
Merenderas
The Merenderas are closely related to the Colchicums, and are amenable to similar treatment. The species grown in gardens are M. Bulbocodium, four inches, lilac, blooming in autumn; caucasica, blooming in May, and having rosy flowers; and persica, which flowers in late autumn and has pale lilac blooms.
Milla
The Millas are pretty bulbous plants, but the only one worth growing as a hardy bulb is M. uniflora, often called Triteleia uniflora, which has white flowers, shaded with blue, in spring. The form violacea has porcelain-blue flowers striped with a deeper blue. The Milla can be grown in the border or rock-garden, but it likes the edge of a gravel path, where it will soon establish itself. Plant in early autumn with the crown about two inches deep.
Narcissi
It is impossible to treat properly of the Narcissus in the space available in a work of this character, but as it is proposed to publish a volume devoted entirely to this charming flower, it will be sufficient to give a chapter dealing generally with the flower and its ways.
Generally speaking, the cultivation of the Narcissus out of doors is without difficulty, if we can give it a free, loamy soil, and a pure air. The exceptions are few, except that there are some species which are troublesome, and apparently resent being grown in cultivated ground, and die off there. Some of these will thrive on grass or on rockwork, while they die in the border. The white trumpet Narcissi are among the most troublesome in this respect, and some find it necessary to plant them on grassy banks facing the north. This is not desirable in the north, and it will be well to try various positions before finally giving up the cultivation of the fascinatingly beautiful white trumpet Narcissi. The Hoop-petticoat Narcissi, as the forms of N. Corbularia are called, are difficult to establish. Those who wish to attempt them may begin first with citrina, the sulphur one. Many find them thrive best planted where the roots can reach water, such as in light, peaty soil, above a milk pan sunk in the soil. The writer has, however, frequently seen plants established in the border or rock-garden. Triandrus albus, the exquisite "Angel's Tears," is troublesome to establish also. It ought to be planted in a crevice of the rockery in gravel, sand, and peat. The form Triandrus pulchellus, although scarce, is a much better grower. The beautiful little N. moschatus, of Haworth, is difficult to grow except on grass; and others which thrive better thus planted than in the ordinary border are named by Messrs Barr. Their list may be safely followed, although one's experience of several is that they grow quite well in a border; much, however, depending upon the character of the soil and how it is drained. The varieties are:—Achilles, Countess of Annesley, Spurius, Thomas Moore, Pseudo-narcissus, the English Lent Lily, variiformis, and pallidus præcox. Few of the Tazetta Narcissi are suitable for outdoor culture, although in the milder districts of England and Ireland they may be grown in the open.
As the Narcissus prefers a soil without animal manure within reach of its roots, it is better to cultivate it in land manured for a previous crop, or to add artificial fertilisers, than cow or horse manure. Experienced growers prefer a small quantity of basic slag or bone meal. In light soils a sprinkling of sulphate of potash is applied annually in autumn.
Planting is best done early in autumn, September being a good month, but the varieties of N. poeticus should be in earlier if possible. Occasional lifting and replanting is advisable.
Narcissi in Pots
In cultivating the Narcissus in pots or boxes a somewhat similar method may be adopted as in the case of Hyacinths in pots, but they will generally stand more forcing. The Tazetta, or Bunch-flowered Narcissi, such as Paper White, are largely used, and can be had very early in bloom.
Ornithogalums — Oxalises — Pæonias — Ranunculuses — Romuleas — Sanguinarias — Sternbergias — Schizostylis — Tecophilæas — Trilliums
Ornithogalums
The Ornithogalums, or Stars of Bethlehem, are not general favourites in gardens, because of their seeding propensities, which make them difficult to keep within bounds. Several are very pleasing and deserve some attention, because of their white and green flowers. Umbellatum, the common species, is only suitable for the wild-garden, but the little tenuifolium is pretty, as also are fimbriatum and montanum. Nutans is pretty also, but increases too rapidly. Pyramidale is a fine plant about two feet high. They like a sandy soil and to be planted about two inches deep. None of the yellow Ornithogalums are hardy.
Oxalises
The Oxalises, or Wood Sorrels, are bright little plants, although their value is reduced by their flowers only opening in sun. There is a pretty lilac variety of O. Acetosella, our common Wood Sorrel, and Bowiei and floribunda, with rose flowers, are quite hardy in light soil. Lobata, a beautiful little yellow species, flowering in October, is also hardy, as well as the exquisite white enneaphylla. Tetraphylla, lasiandra, l. alba, and violacea may also be tried with every prospect of success. Give a sunny position in light soil, and if planted in autumn cover slightly the first winter.
Pæonias
The herbaceous Pæonias, which are such brilliant ornaments of our gardens in May and June, would require more space to do them justice than we can command. They like a rich, well-manured soil, inclining to heaviness and thoroughly trenched before planting in early autumn. After the plants are in position mulch the ground with rotten manure, and when growth is being made in summer give liberal applications of manure water to induce free growth. The crowns should be a little below the surface, and plant if possible where the sun does not reach them until a little before noon. The list of superior varieties is extremely extensive, and those thinking of purchasing Pæonias should either select the plants while they are in bloom, or from the catalogues of dealers who grow these flowers largely. The single forms are very beautiful also, though they hardly keep so long in bloom. Many of the species are also attractive plants, and where there is sufficient space a selection of these should be made and grown. The common Peony of old gardens is P. officinalis.
Ranunculuses
At one time a favourite florist's flower, the Ranunculus has fallen greatly out of favour, and there are now few named sorts grown. It is, however, well worth growing for its beauty as a garden flower and also for cutting. A bowl of pure white Ranunculi with the foliage of Heuchera Richardsoni, or some other dark-leaved plant, is a charming thing, and many equal beautiful effects can easily be produced. The florist's Ranunculus was derived from R. asiaticus, and there are flowers of almost all colours among the double varieties which have been raised. A good strain of mixed Ranunculuses will produce many good flowers at a small expense. The principal forms now grown are the Turban or Turkish and the Persian, which are varied in their colours. Those named R. asiaticus superbus are large and showy, if a little coarse to those accustomed to the more refined flowers of the others. They can be grown in an ordinary border well manured, and can be planted from October to February. In planting choose a dry day, and keep the crowns two inches below the surface. Care must be taken to keep the crown up, and to cover this with a little sand after planting. Cover with some litter in winter, and water freely when coming into bloom. Lift when the foliage becomes yellow, and dry off in a cool and airy place, storing the tubers in dry sand.
There are a few other tuberous-rooted species of Ranunculus worth growing in the garden. Of these the best are the double form of the native R. bulbosa which has yellow flowers; R. chærophyllus, yellow; R. monspeliacus, yellow; and R. millefoliatus grandiflorus, the same colour. These are easily grown in the border in ordinary soil.
Romuleas
Romuleas are remarkably pretty little bulbs with Crocus-like flowers, from March to July, and grassy leaves. They require warm, sunny spots on rockwork, and in cold localities should be grown in a frame. They like sandy soil. Among the best and hardiest are R. Bulbocodium, with blue and yellow flowers. The variety pylium is even prettier. Columnæ is pretty with its white flowers. Clusii, lavender, and speciosa, rosy violet, are both pretty. Plant in autumn two inches deep, and protect in winter.
Sanguinarias
S. canadensis, the only species, is a pretty little plant, known as the Bloodroot, Red Puccoon, or Red Indian Paint, and perfectly hardy. It has white flowers with a yellow centre in April, and the leaves are not fully developed until after the flowers. It likes a rich moist soil, but can be grown in the border. The best form is grandiflora, and the one called multipetala has many narrow petals. There is said to be a pinkish form.
Sternbergias
The Sternbergias are handsome autumn flowers with blooms like a glorified yellow Crocus, which appear before the leaves. The best for the open air is S. lutea angustifolia, a narrow-leaved variety of the common lutea. Others of much beauty are fischeriana and macrantha, the latter having very large flowers. In order to make them flower they need a dry, sunny position in soil with limestone or lime rubbish. They should be planted in summer about two inches deep.
Schizostylis coccinea
The Kaffir Lily is a valuable late blooming plant in a warm, sunny border, where it blooms in autumn, when its bright scarlet flowers in long spikes are much appreciated. Although it likes a warm position, it must not suffer from drought in its growing period. Plant in spring about three inches deep. It makes a good pot plant for a cool house.
Tecophilæas
The beautiful little Tecophilæas are quite hardy in light soils, but are, because of their scarcity, usually grown in frames or in pots in greenhouses. They have pretty Crocus-like flowers of blue and white, and should be planted in rich, light soil in a sunny position, well-sheltered from wind, or in a frame. Slugs are very partial to them, and must be carefully guarded against. The leading species are cyano-crocus and violæflora.
Trilliums
The Trilliums, or Trinity Flowers, are very ornamental plants, and are so distinct in form that they please everyone. They like shade and a moist peaty soil. Grandiflorum is a general favourite, with its large flowers of pure white. There is also a rose-coloured form named grandiflorum roseum. Even finer than grandiflorum is sessile var. californicum, which is considerably taller, and has fine white flowers, those of the typical sessile being purple. Cernuum, erectum, erectum album, nivale, petiolatum, recurvatum, and stylosum are all pretty, the last being the latest to bloom, and well worth growing. Plant in autumn or spring, with the crown one or two inches below the surface of the soil.
Tulips — Zephyranthes
Tulips
It is a matter for regret that the true beauty of the Tulip has been so long obscured by the manner of its planting in stiff lines or beds, where the flowers stood in almost regimental array, with little but their own foliage to tone down the superfluous brilliancy of the mass of colour. It is emphatically a flower which requires association with other plants to show its true value. Grown in bold clumps in the mixed border, or in irregular groups among the rougher grass, it gives a much better effect. Individually, the Tulips are very beautiful, and their value in pots is of a high degree. Of course those who grow the English florist's Tulip ought to continue to grow them in beds and in lines, so that they can be protected from frost and shaded readily from strong sunshine. For ordinary gardens, however, an informal grouping will be the most satisfactory and pleasing. The species are very varied in their character, and many of the dwarfer are delightful rock-garden plants. A good, loamy soil is suitable for all classes of Tulips, but where it is heavy a little coarse sand may be placed about the bulb. It is well to plant comparatively early, from the beginning of October to the end of November being the most suitable time. In gardens subject to late frosts, it is better to plant in November than in the earlier month. Three or four inches is the depth generally recommended, but on light soil an additional inch may be given. Six inches apart is a good distance at which to plant the bulbs for ordinary effect. The English florist's Tulip ought to have a good loamy soil, the bulbs being planted three inches deep and four apart in lines. The end of October to the middle of November is the best time, but the bulbs should never be planted unless the soil is in a good working condition. Some litter should be put over the beds in severe frosts, and an awning erected over them at the blooming-time to preserve the flowers from rain and strong sun. There are a number of details connected with the florist's Tulip and its cultivation which cannot be given in the space of this work, but Mr Bentley's little pamphlet, entitled "The English Tulip," will give all necessary information not to be found here. The florist's Tulip can be grown in a border, but its effect there is not so good as that of some of the self-coloured flowers.
The early Tulips are the most prized for pot-culture, but the others may be used also, although not generally so amenable to forcing. They should be planted at the rate of from three to five bulbs in a five-inch pot, according to the size of the bulbs. After planting, the pots should be plunged in ashes or cocoa-fibre until they have made root-growth, when they may be brought in as required and subjected to gentle forcing. Watering must be carefully attended to at this time. When a number of flowers are required for jardinettes, etc., the Tulips may be grown closely together in boxes. When they show colour, they may be lifted with roots intact, and planted in moss in the receptacles in which they are required.