Fig. 8.—See page95.
Fig. 8.—See page95.
Fig. 8.—See page95.
Fig. 6.—See page95.
Fig. 6.—See page95.
Fig. 6.—See page95.
By measuring the instep of a foot with callippers, one half of the distance gives the centre. Then take the thickness of the large toe in the same manner and half the thickness gives the centre; then draw a line from that to the instep centre—carry the line a short distance beyond, to where the callippers strike the bottom of the foot just in front of the heel, and the end of the last, (as seen by a dotted line in the centre) whatever “pitch” you may give the toes. The “pitch” is governed by the height of the heel as seen in No. 3. Boot cutters make it a convenient practice to draw from that centre, a perpendicular line in order to give the centre of the boot leg at the top, and all is governed by the height of the heel.
By a little attention to the front line (No. 7,) will be seen, the true shape of a boot form or crimp, and the back line, the boot properly treed; the centre line, the seam. By passing the eye up the instep measure line, at the top is seen the curve that the fulness represents. That curve, or line, from the toes to the ankle line is carried in, or out, as the heel measure may determine. By having a pattern of that curved line, from the toes to the ankle line, all the variety of fulness is obtained, as is readily seen.
The ankle measure in many cases, is three-eighths of an inch shorter in a direct line than the heel line; that is, when these lines aredoubled, as seen in No. 7.
Fig. 7.—See page98.
Fig. 7.—See page98.
Fig. 7.—See page98.
Having a pattern of that curve line from the ankle to the toes, of all styles and varieties of boots and shoes, by moving it out in the same direction as the heel measure, to the instep, one-twelfth of an inch, (as that is a size) as seen in Mr. Parrott’s diagram for cutting uppers; that makes it a size fuller andvice versa. As that curved line remains the same through all the sizes, by having that pattern, and one side of it properly curved, for the heel line, and a portion of the same for the bottom line or curve, and those lines properly divided off and numbered, for each size of any desired design, by that patternall sizesmay be cut with ease and accuracy. Some have their several patterns fitted for the varieties of shoes they wish to manufacture. For custom work, they are very convenient. As the measure of the foot is the proper guide, draw the bottom line, then the heel, giving it the position desired for the shoe or boot, then the width of the toes, observing their elevation, as the shoe may be heeled or not. Then apply the heel measure; draw the instep line from the toes to the ankle, draw a line for, orfromthe toes and ankle, and you have the desired result.
Some cutters draw only one instep curve line, and make one-third of a size allowance for the length on the heel, and two-thirds of a size on the toes, for each size, and one-twelfth of an inch on the bottom at the heel, and a little more on the toes. It produces about the same result, regulating the height of the quarter by the same heel scale, as fancy may dictate.
In 1832, we made the first full set of diagram patterns that we ever used; since that time the principle has spread from Maine to the far West, and a change has been wrought in the manufacture of shoes by machinery that causes the old-fashioned manufacturers to blush at the reflection that new tools, new machines, new ideas, have been introduced successfully, in spite of their determined opposition.But it must be confessed that a great proportion of the machines and tools now in general use, are exceedingly imperfect. Most of the really important improvements that have been made, are the products of that class of mechanics who have brains, but shallow pockets. The ideal must always precede the actual, and the poor shoemaker who conceives an idea that his superior genius discovers to be really practical, is too often regarded as an idle dreamer, and the old adage is at once applied, “Ne sutor ultra crepidam”—no shoemaker should go beyond his last.
The science of shoe manufacturing is yet to be greatly changed and improved. There is, in our opinion, no branch of the mechanic arts more susceptible of improvement than this; we mean in the process of manufacture, none that admits of more machinery and tools. All parts of the stock can be cut and fitted by machinery, far superior to the hand methods. The rounding of pump out-soles, feather edging, the pricking of holes or stitches, all in-soles for welted boots or shoes, can be fitted precisely alike. All this work should be done by the “Boss” before the work is distributed to the workmen, then, of course, the shape of the shoe and edges would present a uniform appearance.
The foregoing suggestions may be questioned by those who have little perception and less knowledge, but nevertheless, the march of progress will surely witness factories arranged with perfected machinery, so that all parts of the work will be done under the supervision of skilful and practical workmen. By improved processes of manufacture, boots and shoeswill be made durable and firm as the stock will admit, and the finish will far exceed that now produced by the ordinary methods, while those who take the lead in the market, by the facilities they possess, will be able to introduce and form the prevailing styles or fashions. There are many obvious advantages which readily suggest themselves, to be gained by the introduction of improved machinery which we have not space to enumerate.
In collecting the “Hint’s and Facts,” here presented, we have carefully considered the subject, and examined those tools and machinery that are now in general use in this country; also the drawings of many and various machines, tools, etc., that have been published in England and France. From these sources, and our general observations, experiments, etc., we are fully convinced that the day is not far distant when marked and beneficial changes will be successfully introduced into this all-important branch of the mechanic arts. We will here remark, that in conversation with very many of our most energetic and leading shoe manufacturers, we have found the most sanguine believers in the various improvements suggested. New and improved machinery for sewed, pegged and cemented work; cements for rubber compounds, gutta-percha and chemical unions, are now being successfully introduced, together with new tanning combinations, all of which are yet to take a prominent and important place in the manufacture of boots and shoes.
CHAPTER III.INSTRUCTIONSFOR THEManufacture of French Custom Boots, Shoes, and Gaiters.
BY FREDERICK LAUGENBECK.
BY FREDERICK LAUGENBECK.
BY FREDERICK LAUGENBECK.
First, place the foot to be measured upon a sheet of white paper. Mark around the foot with a long pencil, being careful to hold it in a perpendicular position. Next, take the circumference across the ball and instep with a tape measure. Next measure the heel and calf.
For calf boots, the boot must be one-fourth of an inchwideron theheelthan thefoot, and theankleone-fourth of an inchlessthan theheelmeasure.
The last must be one and one-half of a sizelongerthan the foot, and as wide as the widest part of the foot.
For stubb toes, the last should beonesize longer.
Proper allowance should be made for corns. Place a round knob made of leather, or any other suitable substance, on the last, just the size of the corn, or enlargement, on one or both sides of the last, according to circumstances.
Theinstepmust be one-eighth of an inchlessthan measure.
For a sound, healthy foot, make the last one-fourth of an inchlesson theball, and three-eighths of an inch less on theinstep.
Patent leather boots, around the ankle must befull with the measureas the stitchescontract.
If a boot is well cut, andnotproperly lasted, the bootwill not fit.
Soak the counters well in water. Paste betweeneach.
Draw the upperssmoothlyover the last, astightlyas the leatherwill bear.
In drawing the uppers over the last, the counter should be left abouthalf wayinto its place or position.
After the uppers are well lasted over the ball, thendrivethe heel lastdown to its place.
Now commence to last the boot in theshank;smooth either side alternately, towards the toe, until it fitssmoothly.
Remarks.—Judgment should always be used in the manufacture of boots or shoes fortender feet. Nospecificdirections can be given; the good sense and discretion of the artizan will suggest such modifications of the rules as the case requires. The instructions given concerning “corns,” will usually correct the difficulty, but in cases ofgeneral tendernessof the feet, the alterations must be madethroughout.
Around theheel, thepatent leather bootshould be three-eighths of an inchlargerthan is thecalf boot.
Thelastshould be two sizeslongerthan the foot in order to secure comfort. The reason is obvious; thefoot works farther into the shoe, than in the boot.
The last, at the instep, should be as wide as the foot, because the stitchingcontractsthe leather; otherwise the shoe will cause great discomfort. The shoe should be made one-fourth of an inchlessthan measure across the ball of the foot.
The last should be made thesameas for calf-skin boots, whether patent leather, orothermaterial.
Soak the leather well in water. Remove all the fleshy substance, from stock of every description.
Draw the in-sole well over the last. Let it remain untilnearlydry. Hammer the in-sole after removal. Next, cut the in-sole as required; by the sole thus prepared, cut the other sole.
The remainder of the stock should benearlydry before cutting up.
Ruff the soles with a rasp, then paste between them. Put every piece comprising the heel onseparately, raspeverylift, and paste as before.