parallel barsFig. 41parallel barsFig. 42
parallel barsFig. 41
Fig. 41
parallel barsFig. 42
Fig. 42
After having fairly mastered the pumping movement, you will now be ready for attemptingthe hand-balance—an exceedingly effective exercise, and not very difficult to accomplish. Commence as for the backward pump, and, with an increased momentum, bring yourself up into a hand-balance (Fig. 41). This movement should be first practised at the end of the bars, as in the event of your overbalancing—a not unlikely contingency—you can save yourself by bending thearms, as inFig. 42. We should also recommend your having two friends to stand by you, one on each side of the bars, ready to catch you in case of a tumble. Having become proficient in the stationary balance, try to walk along the whole length of bars with the hands, still preserving the balance. This will be found none too easy, as directly one hand is moved forward the balance is altered, and there is a tendency to fall over. The correct method of leaving the bars after balancing is by means of thehand-spring, which is performed by bending the arms as inFig. 42, and when in that position dropping the legs and pushing away from the bars with the arms; the result will be that you will alight on your feet after having turned a half-somersault. In practising this also you should have two friends ready to catch you, as your first few attempts are nearly certain to be unsuccessful.
parallel barsFig. 43parallel barsFig. 44
parallel barsFig. 43
Fig. 43
parallel barsFig. 44
Fig. 44
Theslow pull-upwas described in our remarks on the Horizontal Bar, but upon the parallels it is much more difficult of execution. The movement is shown inFigs. 43and44. In starting, the hands should be placed well over the ends of the bars—the wrists, in fact, being over—then by sheer strength raise the body up toFig. 44. This is the awkward point, and all your exertion and power will be called upon to get right up with straight arms.
parallel barsFig. 45parallel barsFig. 46
parallel barsFig. 45
Fig. 45
parallel barsFig. 46
Fig. 46
The following exercise is also very similar to one described for the horizontal bar, but it is more difficult on the parallels. Stand between the bars, catch hold of them with the hands, and stoop down until the shoulders are level with the bars; then raise the legs—keeping them straight—until the body is in position, as inFig. 45, when drop right over toFig. 46; then back again, and continue the movement several times. This is splendid exercise for opening the chest and strengthening the muscles of the back.
parallel barsFig. 47parallel barsFig. 48
parallel barsFig. 47
Fig. 47
parallel barsFig. 48
Fig. 48
Vaulting movements, when neatly performed, are very pretty, and should be commenced from the centre of and between the bars.Figs. 47and48will convey the idea to our readers. A great many movements may be gone through while in this position, the necessary impetus being obtained by swinging the legs over the bars.
parallel barsFig. 49
Fig. 49
Fig. 49shows the most difficult of all the exercises upon the parallels. It is to make the head and shoulders counterbalance the legs, and to hold the body parallel with the bars by the arms. This is known by the name of ‘La Planche.’
We will now proceed to a description of the exercises on the
vaulting horseFig. 50
Fig. 50
The above sketch shows the apparatus (Fig. 50). The dimensions most convenient for use are 5 feet 10 inches to 6 feet in length, and about 16 inchesacross the back; the height can be arranged as required. It will be seen from the illustration that the legs are telescopic, and can be lengthened or reduced at pleasure.
The two pommels in the centre are about 18 inches apart, and can be removed for certain exercises hereafter described. In that case, pommels level with the back of the horse are inserted to fill up the grooves. In performing a great many of the exercises it is necessary to have a wooden board about 3 feet square, rising in thickness from a feather edge to 3 inches, to be placed on the ground at the side or end of the horse, as the case may be, for the ‘take-off.’ This is not used as a spring-board. It should be solid, and made of deal.
The trunk of the horse is made of a solid piece of wood, and covered all over with cowhide. One end, as will be seen from theengraving, is raised, with a slight bend corresponding to the neck of the animal, which gives it its name.
Many of the exercises upon the horse are similar to those upon the parallels. Our readers can themselves recognise which they are; we shall therefore avoid recapitulation, and only describe those peculiar to the horse.
vaulting horseFig. 51vaulting horseFig. 52
vaulting horseFig. 51
Fig. 51
vaulting horseFig. 52
Fig. 52
Start by springing on to the horse with the hands one on each of the pommels, legs hanging straight (Fig. 51). Now swing the right leg over the horse in between the pommels (as inFig. 52), momentarily relinquishing the hold of the right hand, and immediately the leg has passed resuming your hold; then the same with the left leg. This must be done without touching the horse with the foot, and the body must be supported by the arms the whole time. Then bring each leg back again into original position.
Now try the two movements at once—that is, while the one leg is being brought back the other is to be passed through forward. You will thus always have one leg on each side of the horse.
The next exercise is the—
Stand in front of the horse, hands on pommels, then spring up into the saddleinto a kneeling position (as inFig. 53). Then, throwing the arms up, give a good spring forward, alighting on your feet the other side (Fig. 54). You will feel rather awkward at first in attempting the spring, as the legs seem to be glued to the saddle, but it is very easy after having once been accomplished.
vaulting horseFig. 53vaulting horseFig. 54
vaulting horseFig. 53
Fig. 53
vaulting horseFig. 54
Fig. 54
Jumping exercises on the horse, when neatly performed, are very effective.
vaulting horseFig. 55
Fig. 55
Take a short run up to the board (describedabove), and jump—off both feet at once—over the back, passing the legs through the arms, and assisting yourself by the hands one on each pommel (Fig. 55).
vaulting horseFig. 56
Fig. 56
When in this position shoot out the legs in front of you, and, leaving go of the pommels, come down neatly on the other side. Be careful to gather up the legs well when passing through, or you may catch your feet against the back of the horse, and come down on your nose. There are several forms of this exercise.Fig. 56shows one of them.
It is rather more difficult than the last, from the legs passingoutsidethe hands. A much greater spring is required to raise you high enough to pass over, and you must be careful to let go with the hands at the proper time, otherwise you will lose command of yourself and pitch forward on to the ground. In practising this movement we recommend your having a friend to stand in front of the horse, to catch you in case of such an emergency.
Get on to the horse as inFig. 57, sitting across, outside the pommels, then catchhold of the pommels as shown, and, throwing the whole weight of the body upon the arms, throw the legs right up, and, with a kind of twist, bring yourself round on to the horse the opposite side of the pommels, retaining your hold all the time. You will then face the opposite direction to the position from which you started. Practise the exercise from right to left, andvice versa.
vaulting horseFig. 57
Fig. 57
There are many other forms of saddle-vaulting possible of practice, some of them very difficult, but it is not needful to describe them.
vaulting horseFig. 58
Fig. 58
The hand-balance was described in the chapter on the parallel bars. It is a little more difficult of execution on the horse. It is shown inFig. 58.
The assistance of two friends in attempting this feat is desirable.
For these exercises the pommels must be removed, and the spaces filled up with the flush ones, asdescribedalready. The movement is not unlike leap-frog, as the spring is taken off the board, and you pitch on to your hands in the same manner. But there the similarity ends, for it is a very different matter clearing a boy’s back, from getting over the whole length of the horse.
vaulting horseFig. 59
Fig. 59
Commence by placing the jumping-board about 3 feet from the largest end of the horse, then with a run and a spring pitch on to your hands, as inFig. 59.
After practising this, move the board farther away and repeat; continue the exercise, each time measuring the distance, until you can pitch on to the ends from about 5 or 6 feet.
vaulting horseFig. 60
Fig. 60
Now jump up on to the end of the horse, as inFig. 60, then plunge forwards on to the other end, pitching on to the hands, and clearing the horse, as in leap-frog, coming down safely on the ground in front.
This exercise must be done with dash and vigour. If you are half-hearted about it you will come to grief.
This simple apparatus consists of iron rings attached to two ropes suspended from a cross bar or from a ceiling, about seventeen or eighteen feet in length, and at a sufficient height from the ground to allow the feet to swing just clear. The rings or stirrups (the latter shape is the more convenient) should be covered with leather, and of a thickness affording a good grasp. The exercises that can be performed upon them are neither attractive nor various, but they are useful, and as no section on gymnastics would be complete without their introduction, we will proceed to describe them.
hand-ringsFig. 61
Fig. 61
Begin by drawing yourself up, as inFig. 61, holding one ring close to the shoulder and the other extended at arm’s length. Now draw in the extended arm, at the same time straightening the other, and repeat the movement as long as you are able, first one arm straight, then the other. Keep the head erect, looking straight before you, not at either of the rings. Legs hanging close together, toes pointed.
hand-ringsFig. 62
Fig. 62
Now try the slow pull up; this is not so difficult upon the rings as upon the horizontal bar. The wrist should be placed well over the rings, so as to get a good purchase. Then proceed as directed in the horizontal bar directions, and when you have drawn yourself quite up, straighten the arms and press them close to your sides. Now for a stiff one. When in this position gradually extend the arms apart, allowing the body to sink until the shoulders are nearly level with the rings (Fig. 62). Endeavour to keep in this position, supporting the body as long as possible, then lower yourself gradually, until you hang straight down again.
The back and forward ‘horizontals’ (also described in the horizontal bar) are very good exercises to practise on the rings.
hand-ringsFig. 63
Fig. 63
hand-ringsFig. 64
Fig. 64
Now for some swinging exercises. Take hold of the rings and with a few quick steps forward communicate a swing to the body, which increase by drawing yourself up in the forward swing, and when at its extent lowering yourself with a drop.This will cause you to swing higher each time until your arms and legs are straight and nearly in a horizontal position, as inFig. 63. When accustomed to this exercise, which should be practised until perfect confidence is attained, you may proceed to the following. Commence as before, and when at the end of the forward swing, draw up the legs over the head, as inFig. 64, and immediately before commencing the backward swing shoot the legs out straight, and come back to position as inFig. 63. Continue the movement half a dozen times.
hand-ringsFig. 65
Fig. 65
hand-ringsFig. 66
Fig. 66
Commence as before, and when at the end of thebackwardswing, suddenly contract the arms and raise yourself up into the rings, as inFig. 65, and continue swinging in that position. In order to preserve your equilibrium you must bring the legs forward when beginning to descend, as inFig. 66.
hand-ringsFig. 67
Fig. 67
Another variety of the swing is to support yourself on the rings, ‘grasshopper fashion’ (Fig. 67). A very pretty effect is produced by a combination of the different swings we have described. The order in which they are performed is immaterial, and may be left to the pleasure of the gymnast.
We will conclude our directions for the rings with a description of what is known as ‘dislocation.’
Hang from the rings and draw up the legs over the head, and drop over, as inFig. 46(Parallel Bars). Now instead of going back again, push the rings out and away from you on each side. The body, by its own weight, will drop through andcause the arms to twist until you will find yourself hanging with straight arms in the position from which you started. The sensation you will experience when first the exercise is performed is (of course momentarily only) not unlike ‘dislocation,’ hence the name the exercise bears, but after a few successful attempts it is comparatively easy, and is a splendid means of opening the chest.
Although not generally looked upon as a gymnastic exercise, climbing the rope, pole, etc., is so essentially useful, and so likely to prove of service in an emergency, that we devote a few lines to describe the best and most effective method. Those who have never attempted to climb a rope can have but little idea of the severe nature of the exercise. Although unfortunately neglected, in favour of more showy feats by the majority of gymnasts, yet there are a few who make a speciality of it, and climb heights really marvellous. A few years ago, on the occasion of the German Gymnastic Society’s annual display at the Crystal Palace, one of the members ascended a rope from the floor to the extreme height of the centre transept. The arduous nature of the feat may be imagined when our readers are informed that a quarter of an hour was occupied in the ascent. The way of taking hold of the rope is shown inFig. 68. The legs should now be drawn up and the knees and feet pressed against the rope, and the hands then shifted higher (Fig. 69).
climbingFig. 68climbingFig. 69
climbingFig. 68
Fig. 68
climbingFig. 69
Fig. 69
Climbing by the hands only, ‘hand over hand,’ as it is called, is much moredifficult, and can only be performed to a limited height. Climbing the pole is more difficult, from the fact that it is unbending and thicker to grasp.Fig. 70shows the position.
climbingFig. 70
Fig. 70
In nearly every well-appointed gymnasium there are ladders, placed in horizontal or slanting positions, upon which a variety of easy but useful exercises may be performed. ‘Walking’ by the hands is shown on the horizontal ladder inFig. 71. By moving the hands forward alternately, holding by the outside, you progress from one end to the other, and back again by reversing the movement.
ladderFig. 71ladderFig. 72
ladderFig. 71
Fig. 71
ladderFig. 72
Fig. 72
InFig. 72another movement is shown, in which progression is made by a succession of ‘steps’ from round to round, first from one round to the next, and afterwards increasing the length of the step by missing four, five, or six rounds, as the length of reach will permit.
Comparatively few years ago bodily exercises were mostly confined to walking, running, and rowing; now, happily, it is an exception not to find some sort of gymnastic exercise desired by boys where apparatus is necessary. My object in this article is to tell as briefly and succinctly as possible, how any one, with a slight knowledge of carpentry, can make at home all that is requisite for a gymnasium, and that too at a comparatively small expense.
As you will, of course, require some tools, I will begin by supposing that you have the ordinary commonplace ones, but may mention that, as you will find the truth of the adage, ‘A bad workman finds fault with his tools,’ you mustnot attempt to cross-cut a piece of timber with a rip saw, or split your wood by using a gimlet instead of a bradawl, blaming the tools, spoiling the wood and also your own temper.
Let us begin with the construction of the horizontal bar, as it is the simplest apparatus to make, and affords the greatest variety of exercises. There are several ways of forming the supports. We will take the two most suitable, one as a fixture and the other portable, to be used in a room or anywhere else desired.
With wooden uprights to fix in the ground (Seenext page,Fig. 1):
Tools.
Hand-saw (cross-cut).Jack plane.Spike gimlet (three-eighths of an inch).Inch chisel.Hammer.Rule and Pencil.
Hand-saw (cross-cut).Jack plane.Spike gimlet (three-eighths of an inch).
Hand-saw (cross-cut).Jack plane.Spike gimlet (three-eighths of an inch).
Inch chisel.Hammer.Rule and Pencil.
Inch chisel.Hammer.Rule and Pencil.
The first thing to be done is to order your wood of the nearest timber-merchant. There are various kinds of fir-timber, and those mostly used are pine, spruce, and yellow deal. The latter is the best for our present purpose, as it is easy to work and will best stand the inclemency of the weather. I need scarcely tell you where to get the other materials, as most ironmongers and colourmen keep everything you may require in this way.
horizontal barFig. 1
Fig. 1
Having all your materials and tools ready, saw 4 feet off your battens (AA), which will leave 10 feet for the uprights, and as 2 feet 6 inches have to be let into the ground, you will then have 7 feet 6 inches for the height of the bar, which is sufficient for all exercises. You will next fit the 4 feet-pieces (BB) into one end of the uprights by halving them in; this will form the sole-piece to which the struts (CCCC) are nailed. All this part, which goes underground, is left in its rough state; the 7 feet 6 inches above the ground will have to be planed over and the edges rounded off. The uprights can be either left plain or an ornamental turned top may be added. This is a matter of fancy.
Our bar is made of the best straight-grained ash, 6 feet long and 17⁄8in. in diameter.
Before fixing, cover the knots with a little patent knotting, then paint the uprights all over with a coat of priming, another coat of lead colour and one of any finishing colour you prefer. Green will soon fade, blue will stand for years.
Tools.
Saw.Jack plane.Inch chisel.Three-eighths-of-an-inch spike gimlet.
Saw.Jack plane.
Saw.Jack plane.
Inch chisel.Three-eighths-of-an-inch spike gimlet.
Inch chisel.Three-eighths-of-an-inch spike gimlet.
portable horizontal barFig. 2
Fig. 2
This bar (Fig. 2), for its simplicity, portability, and strength, has a reputation for being one of the most useful kinds of apparatus made. Not only is it used for a bar, but children’s swings, hand-rings, and trapeze can be attached to it, as the supports can be spread out to allow the bar to stand at various heights by shifting the stretcher irons (A A) up and down. These irons, three-eighths of a inch in diameter, are cranked at each end—i.e., bent at right-angles—and fit into holes in the uprights about 3 inches apart.
There will be very little for you to make in this, viz., the four uprights. After you have planed these over and rounded the edges, mortice 11⁄4-in. square holes through two of the uprights (D), six inches from the top, and bore3⁄4-in. round holes through the other two. This is to take the end of the bar (B).The square part is to prevent the bar turning round when you swing on it. You will have to purchase the bar with iron core, as it would be impossible to make it without proper machinery.
Size and varnish the uprights with one coat of size and two of hard oak varnish. In fixing, you merely turn the screw-eye into the floor or stakes, and attach the stays (C C) to them.
with wooden uprights to fix in the ground.
lawn gymnasiumFig. 3
Fig. 3
Tools.—Same as for Horizontal Bar,Fig. 1.
Fig. 3represents the Lawn Gymnasium with some of its appendages. My object now is to show you how to construct the frame, and, of course, when that is done you can add whatever you like, as, for instance, climbing-rope or pole, hand-rings (H H), trapeze bar, foot or sitting swing (G), vaulting and horizontal bar (F), etc.
On referring to the quantities you will find there are two yellow battens15 ft. long; these form the uprights (A A); 3 feet has to go into the ground, leaving 12 feet for the height of the swing. The top (B), 7 feet in length, is cut off the 14-ft. length, the remaining 7 ft. is again cut in the centre to form the two sole-pieces (D D), 3 ft. 6 in. each; these are then halved into the bottom of the uprights in centre, and the struts (E E E E) nailed on as shown. The top can be either morticed on to the uprights or secured by strong iron brackets. The inch facia board (C) is nailed on the top for ornament, as are also the cornice pole-ends.
The 2-inch square runners are secured on the uprights with the 3-inch screws (four to each runner), 3 feet from the ground and 2 inches apart, leaving a groove or space between them for the ends of the bar to slide up and down. For vaulting purposes these runners have to be bored through with a3⁄8-in. nose or spoon-bit (a gimlet would split the wood); the holes must be about three inches apart from the top to bottom, and are intended to take the3⁄8-in. pin which is to support the bar.
The whole of the wood-work above ground must be planed, and the edges neatly rounded off. It is the custom to burn or char the surface of that part of the timber which has to be let into the ground, to prevent it from rotting, but a good coat of gas tar answers the purpose very well.
portable frameFig. 4
Fig. 4
Fig. 4represents a very simple way of forming the uprights for a swing. It consists of two scaffold poles, or more correctly speaking, Norway spars (the same as used for ladder-making when they have been sawn down the centre). They may be procured at any ladder-makers, with the bark taken off and properly trimmed. The top should be 2 in. in diameter, and the bottom 31⁄2to 4 inches. The cross-piece (B) to which the ropes are fastened is formed of 2-in. gas barrel,i.e.iron tubing, and is measured by the calibre or inside diameter, therefore 2-inch gas tubes will measure about 21⁄2inches outside diameter. The elbows, which are bought already screwed, would have to be fitted with iron staples riveted to them, to fasten the wire rope to, and two hooks also riveted through the tube, made of1⁄2-in. diameter iron, 18 inches apart, for attaching the swing.
Cut the iron rope into four lengths of 25 ft. to form the stays (C C C C). One of these stays must be fitted with a coupling screw, for tightening the whole, when fixed. Most telegraph-posts are stayed in this manner; they would, therefore, be a good guide for you to see how the wire ropes are fastened.
The two uprights are not let into the ground; it is best to let them stand on some hard substance, such as a stone or a block of wood, to prevent their sinking when the stays are strained.
portable frameFig. 5
Fig. 5
The next illustration (Fig. 5) represents another method of constructing a portable frame. This has the advantage of the uprights being readily removed, as the whole consists of tube-iron. The Norway spars are here represented by two 14-feet lengths of 2-inch gas tube. If, however, the length be a difficulty, then get four 7-feet lengths of 2-inch gas tube, two of which may be screwed together to form one upright. The screwed sockets, by means of which the tubes are joined, are supplied with them. A horizontal bar (D) may be added by introducing theTpieces (A A), which should be 21⁄2inches, to slide up and down the iron tube, and a hole drilled through theTpiece and into the tube will enable it to be fixed at the requisite height.
The four stays (F F F F) and stakes (G G G G) just the same as described inFig. 4.
Any gas-fitter would supply these tubes, but on the score of economy it is best to go to a wholesale house.
jumping standFig. 6
Fig. 6
Jumping stands are very simple in their construction, consisting of two pieces of square timber (A A) about 4 inches square, bolted to cross-piece (B B) (Fig. 6). In many instances they are merely sunk into the ground without any sole-pieces or struts.
For foot-jumping the stands average 6 feet in height, with three-eighths of an inch holes bored from top to 1 foot from bottom. They are painted and marked feet and inches. A line and sandbags (D D) rest on two pins inserted in the three-eighths-of-an-inch holes, so that should the foot catch in the act of jumping the line immediately falls off.
For pole-jumping the stands must be 12 feet high and strong in proportion, while in other respects they are the same as for foot-jumping.
pan-gymnasticonFig. 7
Fig. 7
This combination (Fig. 7) consists of a ladder-plank (A), two standing-planks (D D), and standing-ladder (B), all fourteen feet in length, which form the four supports to carry the cross-beam (E), ten feet long, to which may be suspended any apparatus you may wish. This is very similar to the Portable Horizontal Bar (Fig. 2), only carried out upon a large and more elaborate scale. If I were to describe its general construction, I should be merely recapitulating what has already been explained. This apparatus may be made any size, of course proportionately strong,G,G,H,H, andI, represent a bar with triangular ends stayed off to the bottom of the four uprights, which, when made tight, the bar becomes perfectly rigid, so that a trapeze bar may be converted into a horizontal bar if required.