Settee Made from Old Wooden BedSettee Made from Old Wooden Bed
Many people have old wooden beds stored away which can easily be made into handy settees like the one shown in the accompanying photograph. A few nails and one-half dozen 3-in. screws are all the materials necessary besides the old bed. The tools needed are a saw, hammer and a screwdriver. The head-board, if too high, can be cut off and some of the ornaments replaced. The footboard must be cut in two to make the ends or arms of the settee. The side rails and a few of the slats are used in making the seat.
Contributed by Wm. F. Hild, Lake Forest, Ill.
Make an enamel by mixing 2 oz. burnt umber with 1 qt. boiled oil, heating, and then adding 1 oz. asphaltum. Keep the mass hot until thoroughly mixed, says the Master Painter. Thin with turpentine while still hot.
Use a camel's hair brush for applying the enamel and allow it to set; then place the article in an oven, bake for six or eight hours at a temperature of 250 deg. F. When cool rub down with steel wool. Apply a finishing coat and allow it to bake eight hours at 250 deg. F. Rub down with a soft rag, varnish and bake again at 200 deg. F. Heat and cool the frame gradually each time. Black enamel is easiest to apply and bakes hardest, but requires a temperature of 300 deg. Colors can be baked at from 200 to 250 deg.
Camp-Stool Work BagCamp-Stool Work Bag
A very practical and novel sewing bag for odds and ends necessary for mending, etc., can be made of a folding camp stool. If an old stool is not at hand, a new one can be purchased for 25 cents. Remove the top or seat, which is usually made of a piece of carpet, then make a bag as shown in Fig. 1 and stitch a heavy cord around the top to make it strong. Make pockets on the inside as shown and nail the bag to the two crosspieces on which the ends of the carpet were tacked. Large, brass furniture nails should be used. Attach a small hook and eye on each end and fasten two leather handles to the crosspieces.
Such a bag requires little room when folded and can be stored in a closet when not in use.
Contributed by Joseph Ledwinka, Philadelphia, Pa.
Rubber Tired Roller SkateRubber Tired Roller Skate
The rubber-tired wheels of an old carpet sweeper can be used to advantage in making a pair of roller skates. In Fig. 1 is shown how an iron washer or two may be fastened to the wood with a piece of sheet metal to support the short axles of the wheels. The wheels are oiled through the holes A and B, Fig. 2. These holes should be smaller than the axles. The two side pieces are fastened together with a board nailed on the top edges, as shown. This board also furnishes the flat top for the shoe sole. Two straps are attached for fastening the skate to the shoe.
Contributed by Thos. De Loof, Grand Rapids, Mich.
Can Be Taken from the CordCan Be Taken from the Cord
The accompanying illustration shows an adjuster for changing the drop of an electric light. The main feature of this adjuster is that it can be removed from the cord at any time. The adjuster is made from a piece of wood, 3/8 in. thick, 2 in. wide and 3 in. long. A 1/4 in. hole is bored in the center near each end of the wood and a slot cut from the holes to the outside edge, as shown in Fig. 1. It is attached to the flexible cord as shown in Fig. 2.
Contributed by J.J. Voelcker; Decatur, Ill.
Beat to a foam the white of an egg, with the addition of a little ammonia. Add 9 oz. and 3 dr. of water and beat again. After the egg has settled, filter and let the liquid run over the dial, which has been previously cleaned with ammonia. When the surplus has run off, coat with the mixture and allow to dry.
A sensitive collodion is now produced as follows: Dissolve 9 gr. of chloride of zinc in 5 dr. of alcohol; add 7-1/2 gr. of collodion cotton and 6-1/2 dr. of ether. Shake the whole forcibly.
Dissolve 23 gr. of nitrate of silver in hot water, add 1-1/2 dr. of alcohol and keep the whole solution by heating. The silver solution is now added in small quantities at a time to the collodion, which must be well settled. This, of course, is done in the dark room. After 24 hours the emulsion is filtered by passing it through cotton moistened with alcohol. This durable collodion emulsion is now flowed thinly upon the prepared watch dial, which, after the collodion has coagulated, is moved up and down in distilled water until the fatty stripes disappear. The water is then changed once, and after a short immersion, the dial is left to dry on a piece of blotting paper. It is now ready for exposure. Expose under magnesium light and develop with a citrate oxalic developer, or in the following hydroquinone developer:
After fixing and drying, coat with a transparent positive varnish.
Details of the Trolley and How It Is UsedDetails of the Trolley and How It Is Used
The accompanying sketch shows a playground trolley line which furnished a great deal of amusement to many children at a minimum cost. The wire, which is 3/16 in. in diameter, was stretched between a tree and a barn across a vacant quarter block. The strength of the wire was first tested by a heavy man. When not in use the wire is unhooked from the tree and hauled into the barn and coiled loosely in the hay loft. The wire was made taut for use by a rope which was fastened to the beams in the barn. The trolley was made, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2, of strips of wood bolted with stove bolts on two grooved pulleys. The middle wide board was made of hardwood. The wheels were taken from light pulley blocks and stove bolts were purchased from a local hardware store to accurately fit the hubs. As it was necessary to keep the bearings greased, we used vaseline. This coaster made great sport for the youngsters and at no time were they in danger of a serious fall as the line was hung low and the slant of the wire was moderate.
Contributed by H. J. Holden, Palm Springs, Calif.
Details of Furnace Regulator ConstructionDetails of Furnace Regulator Construction
We have a furnace in our house and a part of my work each evening last winter was to go down in the basement at 9 o'clock, fill the furnace with coal for the night and stay there until it was burning in good shape, then to close the draft door. As this performance requires from twenty to thirty minutes I concluded to make a self-acting device which would close the draft and leave the furnace safe, without any further attention on my part, after putting in the coal and opening it up to burn. As some other boys may like to build the same regulator I will tell just how to make one and how it operates.
Referring to Fig. 1, you will see a straight cord is attached to the draft door of the furnace, D, and is run over the pulley P and finally is attached to a small piece of iron, H. This piece of iron is hinged to I. To the other side of H another cord G is fastened, which passes over the pulley N and terminates in any convenient place in the rooms above. This piece of iron H is held in place by the release A. Now C is a coil of wire from a door bell. R is an armature which works A on pivot J. M is a U-tube, filled withmercury, one end being connected to a half liter glass flask F by the tube T, and the other end terminates in an overflow tube O. B is a battery of three bichromate cells which are connected up with the C and the platinum points 1—2, which are fused into the U-tube.
On fixing the furnace the iron piece H takes position X, this being the normal position when draft door D is closed. On arriving upstairs I pull the cord G, which causes the piece H to become fixed in the vertical position by means of A. This opens the draft door at the same time. Now when the furnace heats up sufficiently it causes the air to expand in F, which causes themercuryin M to rise a little above the point 2. This immediately causes a current to flow through C which in turn draws R towards it, raises A and causes H to drop to position X. This shuts the furnace door. Now the furnace, of course, cools down, thus causing the air in F to contract and consequently opening the circuit through C. If at any time the furnace should overheat, the raising of A, on which is grounded a wire from a signal bell upstairs, will make a circuit through the bell by means of the point Z and wire leading therefrom. This bell also serves to tell me whether H has dropped or not. This same device of regulating the draft D can be used to regulate the damper, found on the coal doors of most furnaces, by simply fusing a platinum point on the other side of M and changing the cord which is attached to D. A two-contact switch could also be inserted to throw connections from 2 to 3. It would work in this manner: The damper door, of course, which keeps a low fire, would be up in a position similar to D; on the furnace cooling too much, connection, due to contracting of air in F, would be made through 3 and C, causing H to drop, thus closing door. This simple device worked very well all last winter and gave me no trouble whatever.
If you cannot readily procure a U-tube, you can make one, as I did, and the work is interesting.
Making the U-TubeMaking the U-Tube
The U-tube is constructed in the following manner. A glass tube is closed at one end. This is done by holding the tube in one corner of a gas flame, somewhat near the dark area (A, Fig. 2), and constantly turning the tube, when it will be found that the glass has melted together. Now, after it is cool, about 3 or 4 in. from the sealed end, the tube is held steadily so that the flame will heat one small portion ( B, Fig. 2 ). After this small portion is heated blow into the tube, not very hard, but just enough to cause tube to bulge out. Allow to cool. Then reheat the small bulged portion, blow quite hard, so that the glass will be blown out at this point, forming a small hole. Now insert about 1/2 in. of platinum wire and reheat, holding platinum wire by means of a small pliers so that it will be partly in the tube and partly without. The platinum will stick to the glass, and if glass is sufficiently heated one will be able to pull it, by means of pliers, from one side of the hole to the other, thus sealing the wire into the tube. Another wire is sealed in the same way about 1 in. from the first. Now, to bend the tube, one must hold it, with both hands, in the flame and turn constantly until soft. Quickly withdraw from flame and bend, just as you would a piece of copper wire. Allow to cool slowly.
The several tubes are connected with a short piece of rubber tubing.
The total cost of materials for constructing the apparatus complete will not amount to more than one dollar.
Contributed by M. G. Kopf, Lewis Institute, Chicago.
Dissolve 4 oz. sulphate of zinc in 10 gal. water; add 1/2 lb. sal-soda; stir well until dissolved, and add 1/2 oz. tartaric acid. Put the tent cover in this solution and let lie 24 hrs. Take out (do not wring it) and hang up to dry.
Grinnell's Hand Book on Painting.
Sheet metal placed between two boards in the jaws of a vise and clamped tightly, can be sawed easily with a hacksaw.
Wire and Sheet-Metal VaneWire and Sheet-Metal Vane
The toy windmill or weather vane shown in the sketch is made to represent a Blériot monoplane. The propeller is turned by the wind. The frame is made of heavy wire and connected with straps of tin. The construction is plainly shown in the illustration. The windmill vane can be made in any size to suit the builder.
Contributed by W. C. Bliss, St. Louis, Missouri.
Glass minnow traps that will give as good service as those purchased at the tackle store can be made without difficulty. If a trap should be banged carelessly against the side of the boat or some other obstruction and smashed, instead of spending several dollars to replace it, a half hour's time will turn out a new one just as good, says a correspondent of Outing.
A trap of this kind can be made from an ordinary fruit jar such as used in putting up preserves, either of one or two-quart capacity. A one-quart jar gives good results, but if the bait to be caught is of fairly large size, the two quart size may be used. As the jars have the same style top they can be used interchangeably with one mouthpiece.
The mouthpiece is made of a round neck bottle of which the glass is colorless and rather thin. If the neck of the bottle is cut at the right point, it makes a glass funnel that will just fit into the fruit jar. The funnel forms the mouth of the trap. Put the neck of the bottle into the fruit jar and mark the glass with a file where the bottle and jar meet. Make as deep a cut as possible with a file around the bottle on the mark and place two turns of a yarn string saturated in kerosene around just below the cut when the bottle is standing in an upright position. Set fire to the string and turn the bottle from side to side to distribute the heat evenly, then when the string has burned out, plunge the bottle in cold water and it will separate on the cut.
Bind some copper wire around the neck of the jar so that three ends will project 1/2 in. or more. These are bent down over the funnel when put into the jar, forming clamps to hold it in place. The copper wire can be bent many times in emptying or baiting the trap without breaking.
Two copper wire bands are tied tightly around the jar about 3 in. apart. They should be twisted tight with a pair of pliers and the ends joined, forming a ring for attaching a cord.
For catching "kellies" or "killies," bait the trap with crushed clams or salt-water mussels and for fresh water shiners use mincemeat or bread crumbs and do not spill any bait outside of the trap. Leave the trap down ten to fifteen minutes and when resetting it after emptying, put back one or two of the victims, as the others enter more readily if they see some of their companions ahead of them.
Fountain-pen leaks may often be prevented by unscrewing the joint and lightly smearing the screw with vaseline. This also makes it easy to unscrew the joint for filling.
Boy KiteBoy Kite
Girl KiteGirl Kite
Butterfly KiteButterfly Kite
Frame for Girl KiteFrame for Girl Kite
Frame for Boy KiteFrame for Boy Kite
One of the prettiest of all is the butterfly kite. To make this get two thin kite sticks of equal length. Bend each in an are, tying one end of a strong string to one end of each stick and the other end of the string to a point about 3 in. from the other end of the stick. This leaves one end of each stick free, hooking over the hemisphere described by the thread and the stick. Now tie another thread to each of these free ends and tie the other end of the thread to a point near the other end of the stick, corresponding with the distance from the end at which the first strings were tied on the opposite side. This done, you should have two arched frames, each an exact counterpart of the other in size, curvature and weight. Now fasten the two frames together so that the arcs will overlap each other as shown in the sketch. Bind the intersecting points securely with thread. To make the butterfly's head, secure two heavy broom straws or two short wires, and attach them to the top part of the wing frames near where the sticks intersect, so that the straws or wires will cross. These form the antennae, or the "smellers." Then select the color of paper you want, yellow, brown, blue, white or any other color; lay it on a flat surface and place the frame on top of it, holding the frame down securely with a weight. Then with a pair of scissors cut the paper around the frame, leaving about a 1/2-in. margin for pasting. Cut slits in the paper about 2 in. apart around the curves and at all angles to keep the paper from wrinkling when it is pasted. Distribute the paste with a small brush and make the overlaps a little more than 1/4 in. wide and press them together with a soft cloth. When the kite is dry decorate it with paint or strips of colored paper in any design you may fancy. The best effects are produced by pasting pieces of colored paper on top of the other paper. Black paper decorations show up to fine advantage when the kite is in flight. Attach the "belly-band" to the curved sticks by punching a hole in the paper in the same manner as it is attached to the common hexagonal or coffin-shaped kite. With a tail, your kite is ready to fly. Another interesting design is the boy kite. With light colored coat and vest and gay striped trousers, the kite standing high in the air always attracts attention and affords splendid sport for the American youth in springtime.
In making a boy kite it should be remembered that the larger the boy is the better he will fly. To construct the frame, two straight sticks, say 3-1/2 ft. long, should serve for the legs and body; another straight stick forms the spine and should be about 2 ft. 4 in. long. For the arms, get a fourth straight stick about 3 ft. 3 in. long. Make the frame for the head by bending a light tough stick in a circle about 7 in. in diameter. Bind it tightly with a strong thread and through its center run the spine. Then tack on the arm stick 3 in. under the circle so that the spinal column crosses the arm stick exactly in the center. Wrap tightly with strong thread and tack on the two sticks that are to serve for the legs and body. The leg sticks should be fastened to the arm stick about 6 in. on either side of the spinal column, and crossed so that the other ends are 3 ft. apart. Tack them and the arm stick together at the point where they intersect. Small hoops and cross stick of the same material as the head frame should be fastened to both extremities of the arm stick and the lower ends of the leg stick for the hands and feet. See that both hand frames are exactly alike and exercise equal caution regarding the foot frames; also see that the arm stick is at exact right angles with the spine stick and that the kite joints are all firmly tied and the kite evenly balanced; otherwise it may be lopsided. Fasten on the strings of the frame, beginning at the neck at equal distances from the spine, as indicated by the dotted lines in the diagram. Extend a string slantingly from the arms tick to the head on both sides of the spinal column, and run all the other strings as shown in the cut, being careful that both sides of the frame correspond in measurements.
To cover the kite, select different colors of paper to suit your taste, and after pasting them together, lay the paper on the floor and placing the frame on it, cut out the pattern. Leave an edge of 1/2 in. all around and make a slit in this edge every 6 in. and at each angle; make the slits 2 in. apart around the head. After the kite is pasted and dry, paint the buttons, hair, eyes, hands, feet, etc., as you desire. Arrange the "belly band" and tail band and attach the kite string in the same manner as in the ordinary coffin-shaped kite.
The "lady kite" is made on the same principle as the boy kite. The frame may be made exactly as the boy kite and then "dressed" with tissue paper to represent a girl, or it may be made on the special frame, page 81. Remember the dotted lines represent the strings or thread, and the other lines indicate the kite sticks. Be careful with your measurements so that each side of the kite corresponds exactly and is well balanced. Also see that every point where the sticks intersect is firmly tacked and bound.
To cover the kite, first paste together pieces of tissue paper of different color to suit your taste. The paste should be made of flour and water and boiled. Make the seams or overlaps not quite 3/8 in. wide. Lay the paper on the floor, using weights to hold it down, and place the frame of the kite upon it. Then cut out the paper around the frame, leaving an edge of 1/2 in. Don't forget to make a slit in the edge every 6 or 7 in. and at each angle. Around the head the slits are cut 2 in. apart, as in the case of the boy kite. After the kite is dry, paint the paper as your fancy dictates.
To make the breast band, punch holes through the paper, one upon each side of the leg sticks, just above the bottom, and one upon each side of the arm sticks at the shoulder. Run one end of the string through the hole at the bottom of the left limb and tie it to the leg stick; tie the other end at the right shoulder. Fasten one end of another string of the same length at the bottom of the right leg; pass the string up across the first band and tie the other end at the left shoulder. Attach the kite string to the breast band at the point where the two strings intersect. Tie the knot so that you can slide the kite string up or down until it is properly adjusted. The tail band is made by tying a string to the leg sticks at the bottom of the breast band. Let the string hang slack below the skirt and attach the tail to the center. The same general rules apply in attaching the string and tail to the boy kite.
You can make the lady look as if dancing and kicking in the clouds by making the feet of stiff pasteboard and allowing them to hang loose from the line which forms the bottom of the skirt. The feet will move and sway with each motion of the kite.
Fish Kettle VulcanizerFish Kettle Vulcanizer
Vulcanizing Press for Rubber StampsVulcanizing Press for Rubber Stamps
India rubber, especially prepared for stamp-making, should be procured from a dealer or manufacturer, if good results are to be obtained. As an experiment, it is possible for an amateur to prepare the rubber, but, in such cases, it is always attended with uncertain results. The mixed uncured rubber comes in white sheets, strong, firm and about 1/8 in. thick, and for its manipulation a press is indispensable, but can be home-made.
For the base of the press use a piece of iron, having two holes drilled in it at the middle of opposite sides, through which pass bolts, letting the thread ends extend upward and counter-sinking places for the bolt heads to keep the under side of the base level. Solder the bolts in place at the base. The upper part of the press, or the platen, is also of iron, cut so it can be swung off the bolts, rather than by removing the nuts and lifting it off. String a half dozen nuts, larger than those which screw on, on each bolt, so that when the upper nut on each is screwed to the extent of the thread the pressure will be communicated through the nuts wedged in between the platen and the upper nut. The bolt holes in the platen should be directly over those in the base. Distance pieces of an exact thickness should be provided for use on the base; these serve to keep the pressure even.
In preparing the mould, if type is to be copied, use rather large type with wide spaces and set up with high quads and spaces, or the type faces may be filled up by rubbing with either wax, or soap, lightly brushing off any that remains loose. The type so set should be locked into a frame. This may be made of two pieces of wood bolted together at both ends, or of printer's furniture. Place it on a flat surface (marble is good, but any perfectly smooth surface will do) and place distance pieces 1/8 in. higher than its upper surface on either side of it. Apply olive oil to the type faces and wipe off any excess. To form the matrix or reverse of the model, take a piece of iron larger than the inscription to be copied, and spread upon it to a depth of 1/4 in, a putty made by mixing plaster of paris and water to the right consistency.By means of a table knife spread the plaster smoothly and then invert the plate upon the model and press down until the distance pieces are struck. Let it set 10 minutes and then remove. If care has been taken the matrix will be perfect. After it has thoroughly dried, preferably in an oven, saturate it with an alcoholic solution of shellac to strengthen it.
Cut a piece of smooth rubber, large enough to cover the matrix, from the sheet, throw this into a box of talc, or powdered soapstone, so that it receives a coating on both sides; dust a little of the powder over the matrix, also. Place the press on a support over a gas burner; or a kerosene lamp, and apply the heat. Place the matrix on the base of the press, dust off the piece of india rubber and place in the press upon the matrix and screw down the platen. Heat the press to 284 deg. F. and keep screwing down the platen so that the rubber, now soft and putty-like, is forced into every recess of the matrix. A thermometer is not necessary; some rubber always protrudes and the stage of the process can be told from that. At first it is quite elastic, then as the heat increases it becomes soft, then the curing begins and it again becomes elastic, so that, if a point of a knife blade is pressed against it, it resumes its shape when the point is removed. When this takes place it is then thoroughly vulcanized and the sheet can be removed from the matrix. Ten minutes, under favorable conditions, is sufficient time for moulding the rubber. By means of common glue, or bicycle tire cement, fasten the rubber stamp to a wooden handle.
It is possible to dispense with the press in making stamps, where the work is not done in quantities, and use a hot flat-iron. The matrix is placed on a stove at low heat, the rubber laid on and the hot iron applied. But a few moments are required to mould it.
An old letter press if it be inclosed in a tin oven makes a good press, or all the necessary materials and apparatus can be purchased from a dealer. Any type such as all printers use will answer.
It is probably well known that if you rub your feet briskly over a carpet on a dry, cold day and then touch any metallic object with your finger it will emit a small spark. The following amusing experiment may be done on the same principle:
Take any small piece of wire about 2 in. long and twist it around a gas burner as shown at A in the sketch. Have the tip of the burner about 1/8 in. below the end of the wire. The wire must be just far enough away from the center of the burner to keep it out of the flame, or else it will melt.
Now get a friend to turn on the gas when you are ready for it. Go around the room once or twice rubbing your feet along the carpet. When you come around to the gaslight touch the point of the wire and if the gas is turned on, the light will flare right up as if it had been lit with a match.
This experiment cannot be done on a damp day or without shoes, and works best in cold weather.
Contributed by E. H. Klipstein.
A Good Trap for Small AnimalsA Good Trap for Small Animals
From an old 6-in. pine fence board cut off four pieces 2-1/2 ft. long and one 6 in. square for the end of the trap and another 4 in. by 8 in. for the door. Use old boards, as new boards scare rabbits.
Figure 1 shows how the box is made. It should be 4 in. wide and 6 in. high on the inside. The top and bottom boards project 1 in. beyond the side boards at the back and the end board is set in. The top board should be 2 in. shorter than the sides at the front. Nail a strip on the top board back of the door and one on the bottom board so the game cannot push the door open from inside the trap and get out.
In the middle of the top board bore a hole and put a crotched stick in for the lever to rest on. Bore another hole in the top of the door for the lever to pass through. Two inches from the back of the box bore a hole for the trigger, which should be made out of heavy wire in the manner shown in Fig. 2. The door of the trap must work easily and loosely.
Novel Electric MotorNovel Electric Motor
The materials necessary to make this motor are an old electric bell of the "buzzer" type and a cogwheel from an old clock.
Remove the hammer-head and gong from the bell, then bend the end of the hammer into a loop, as in Fig. 1. Now make a little wire catch like Fig. 2, and fasten its loop into the loop of the hammer. Mount the bell on a small board as in Fig. 3 and fasten the cogwheel almost on a line with it. Now press down the hammer and place a nail in the position shown in the diagram so that the catch touches one of the teeth.
Fasten the board in an upright position and attach two dry batteries to the binding-posts. If properly connected, the fly-wheel will turn quite rapidly and with amazing force for so small a machine. The machine, however, has a fixed direction as shown by the arrow, but the belting can be arranged so as to send the models in a reversed direction if required. The materials for the motor should not cost more than 25c for the bell and if you have an old bell it will cost next to nothing.
Contributed by Fred C. Curry, Brockville, Ontario.
Silk, satin or any other fine material can be used to make photographic prints, but the most attractive results for the amateur are obtained on silk, the best color for this purpose being either cream or white, says Photography. The chemicals required are only four in number, and a comparatively small amount of each will suffice, so that the process can be tried without any very great outlay.
A dram of dextrine is mixed with 2 oz. of water and allowed to dissolve. It is then made up to 4 oz. with boiling water, and, when cold, a solution of 1 dr. of ammonium chloride in 2 oz. of water is added. As this mixture does not keep well, it should be used as soon as possible after being made up.
The silk is soaked in the liquid until it is thoroughly saturated, which should take about four or five minutes, and it is then hung up to dry, suspending it, tightly stretched, from its two top corners. The fabric when "salted," as this operation is termed, will keep indefinitely. All these operations can be done in daylight.
The next stage is the application of the sensitizer, for which purpose the two following solutions must be made up and then mixed:
The mixture is spread evenly over the silk with a soft camel's-hair brush. There must be no metal in the mounting of the brush that is used.
Particular care must be taken to see that no particle of the surface of the silk is left uncovered. The best way to insure this is to brush the liquid over the silk, first in one direction and then crosswise. The process of sensitizing must be done in a weak artificial light, such as at night by ordinary gas or lamp light, or in the very feeblest daylight.
The silk is then again fastened up and allowed to dry, but it is now sensitive to the light and the drying must therefore be done in the dark. It is ready for printing as soon as it is dry, and as it does not keep well in the sensitive condition, it should be used up within a few days at the most.
The printing, which is done in daylight, is carried on in the same way as for printing-out papers, except that the silk should be printed a little darker than usual. It will be found convenient to gum the edges slightly, and then to fix the silk on a stiff piece of paper before putting it into the printing frame. If this precaution is not adopted there is a tendency for the silk to slip or crease when it is being examined. The silk must be handled carefully while in the printing frame for this reason, but apart from that, there is no particular difficulty. The paper can be taken off when the printing is finished.
Prints on silk are toned, fixed and washed in the same way as ordinary silver prints. The washing should be thorough, and before the prints are quite dry, they should be ironed to remove all creases.
A chair more than a hundred years old came to me by inheritance. It was originally painted green and had been given two coats of dark paint or varnish within the last 30 years. Desiring to improve the appearance of the relic, I decided to remove the paint and give it a mahogany stain. The usual paint removers would readily take off the two latter coats but had no effect upon the first. I tried to remove the troublesome green in various ways, but with little success until I applied a hot, saturated solution of concentratedlye. By coating the paint with this repeatedly, applying one coat upon another for two days, and then using a stiff brush, the layer was easily and completely removed.
Contributed by Thos. R. Baker, Chicago, Ill.
Bore a hole through the sash of the lower window and halfway through the sash of the upper window, where they meet in the center, and insert a heavy nail or spike. This will fasten the sash together so well that nothing short of a crowbar can pry them apart. The nail can be easily removed when the windows are to be opened.
A very good magnifying glass can be made from an ordinary incandescent lamp of about 16-cp. size which has been rendered useless by being burned out or having the filament broken. Grind or break off the tip end of the globe and fill with water. Put in clear water and plug or cork up the hole.
Fig. 1--Trailer Attached to a BicycleFig. 1—Trailer Attached to a Bicycle
Fig. 2-The Hook in PositionFig. 2-The Hook in Position
Instead of using a seat on the handlebars or frame of a bicycle for my little girl, I made a trailer, as shown in Fig. 1, to attach to the rear axle. I made it from old bicycle parts. The handlebars, which form the back of the seat, fasten into the seat post of an old bicycle attached to the trailer axle. The trailer is attached to the rear axle of the bicycle with two arms or forks, on the ends of which are two forgings, formerly used on the rear ends of a bicycle frame, brazed in, and one of the tube projections cut off from each to make a hook, as shown in Fig. 2. The piece marked E shows one of these forgings or hooks in section. The original axle of the bicycle was removed and one 1-5/16 in. longer supplied, which was turned below the threads for clearance, as shown at A. A washer, D, with a hexagon hole was fitted over the regular nut C, on the axle, and filed tapering so the forging or hook E, on the trailer attachment, could be kept in position. The washer F is held tightly against the hook by pressure from a spring, G. The spring is held in place by a small nut, H, and cotter pin, I. This attachment makes a flexible joint for turning corners. When turning from right to left the left hook on the trailer fork stays in position, while the right hook pushes the washer F outward and relieves the strain on the fork. This attachment also makes it easy to remove the trailer from the bicycle. The washers F are pushed outward and the hook raised off the axle.
Contributed by John F. Grieves, Providence, R. I.
The parts for transmitting the sound are encased in a covering, H, made from the gong of an old electric bell. A round button, D, is turned or filed from the carbon electrode of an old dry cell and a hole drilled through the center to fit in a binding-post taken from the same battery cell. This button must be carefully insulated from the shell, H, by running the binding-post through a piece of small rubber tube where it passes through the hole and placing a rubber or paper washer, F, under the carbon button, and an insulating washer under the nut on the outside. This will provide one of the terminals of the instrument. Construct a paper tube having the same diameter as the button and with a length equal to the depth of the bell case, less 1/8 in. Glue or paste this tube to the button so it will form a paper cup with a carbon bottom.
The diaphragm, B, which is the essential part of the instrument, should be made as carefully as possible from ferrotype tin, commonly called tintype tin. Cut a circular piece from this metal the exact size of the outside of the shell. A hole is made in the center of the disk a little larger than a binding-post that is taken from another old battery cell. When making the hole in the disk be careful not to bend or crease the tin. Scrape the black coating from the tin around the outside about 1/4 in. wide and a place about 1 in. in diameter at the center.
The second electrode, C, is made the same as D, and fastened to the tin diaphragm with the binding post without using any insulation. A third binding post, G, is fastened to the shell through a drilled hole to make the other terminal. The mouthpiece, A, may be turned from wood in any shape desired, but have a flange on the back side that will make a tight fit with the outside of the shell.
Fill the paper tube with powdered carbon, E, which can be made by pounding and breaking up pieces of carbon to about the size of pin heads. Powdered carbon can be purchased, but if you make it be sure to sift out all the very fine particles. Assemble the parts as shown and the transmitter is ready for use. If speech is not heard distinctly, put in a little more, or remove some of the carbon and try it out until you get the instrument working nicely.
Contributed by Harold H. Cutter, Springfield, Mass.
Lawn Tent CompleteLawn Tent Complete
A very simple way of erecting a lawn tent for the children is to take a large umbrella such as used on delivery wagons and drive the handle into the ground deep enough to hold it solid. Fasten canvas or cotton cloth to the ends of the ribs and let it hang so that the bottom edge will touch the ground. Light ropes can be tied to the ends of the ribs and fastened to stakes driven in the ground in a tent-like manner to make the whole more substantial and to stand against a heavy wind. This makes an exceptionally fine tent, as the umbrella is waterproof; also, there is more room to stand up in than in a tent that is in the shape of a wigwam.
Contributed by J.A. Whamer, Schenectady, N. Y.
A windmill for developing from 1/2 to 2 hp. may be constructed at home, the expense being very small and the results highly satisfactory.
The hub for the revolving fan wheel is first constructed. One good way to get both the hub, lining, shaft and spokes for the blades, is to go to a wheelwright's and purchase the wheel and axle of some old rig. There are always a number of discarded carriages, wagons or parts thereof in the rear of the average blacksmith's shop. Sometimes for half a dollar, and often for nothing, you can get a wheel, an axle, and connected parts. Remove from the wheel, all but the four spokes needed for the fans as in Fig. 1. The same hub, axle and bearings will do. In case you cannot secure a wheel and shaft, the hub may be made from a piece of hardwood, about 4 in. in diameter and 6 in. long. A 2-in. hole should be bored through for a wooden shaft, or a 1-1/2-in. hole for a metal shaft. The hub may be secured by putting two or three metal pins through hub and shaft. Adjust the spokes by boring holes for them and arrange them so that they extend from the center A, like B. The wheel is then ready for the blades. These blades should be of sheet metal or thin hardwood. The sizes may vary according to the capacity of the wheel and amount of room for the blades on the spokes. Each one is tilted so as to receive the force of the wind at an angle, which adjustment causes the wheel to revolve when the wind pressure is strong enough. Secure the blades to the spokes by using little metal cleats, C and D. Bend these metal strips to suit the form of the spokes and flatten against the blades and then insert the screws to fasten the cleats to the wood. If sheet metal blades are used, rivets should be used for fastening them.
The stand for the wheel shaft is shown in Fig. 2. Arrange the base piece in platform order, (J). This is more fully shown in Fig. 5. On top of this base piece, which is about 36 in. long, place the seat or ring for the revolving table. The circular seat is indicated at I, Fig. 1. This ring is like an inverted cheese box cover with the center cut out. It can be made by a tinner. Size of ring outside, 35 in. The shoulders are 4 in. high and made of tin also. Form the shoulder by soldering the piece on. Thus we get a smooth surface with sides for the mill base to turn in so as to receive the wind at each point to advantage. The X-shaped piece H rests in the tin rim.The X-form, however, does not show in this sketch, but in Fig. 5, where it is marked S. This part is made of two pieces of 2-in. plank, about 3 in. wide, arranged so that the two pieces cross to make a letter X. When the pieces join, mortise them one into the other so as to secure a good joint. Adjust the uprights for sustaining the wheel shaft to the X-pieces as shown at E, E, Fig. 2. These are 4 by 4 in. pieces of wood, hard pine preferred, planed and securely set up in the X-pieces by mortising into the same. Make the bearings for the wheel shaft in the uprights and insert the shaft.
The gearing for the transmission of the power from the wheel shaft to the shaft calculated for the delivery of the power at an accessible point below must next be adjusted. The windmill is intended for installation on top of a building, and the power may be transmitted below, or to the top of a stand specially erected for the purpose. It is a good plan to visit some of the second-hand machinery dealers and get four gears, a pulley and a shaft. Gears about 5 in. in diameter and beveled will be required. Adjust the first pair of the beveled gears as at F and G. If the wheel shaft is metal, the gear may be set-screwed to the shaft, or keyed to it. If the shaft is hardwood, it will be necessary to arrange for a special connection. The shaft may be wrapped with sheet metal and this metal fastened on with screws. Then the gear may be attached by passing a pin through the set-screw hole and through the shaft. The upright shaft like the wheel shaft is best when of metal. This shaft is shown extending from the gear, G, to a point below. The object is to have the shaft reach to the point where the power is received for the service below. The shaft is shown cut off at K. Passing to Fig. 3 the shaft is again taken up at L. It now passes through the arrangement shown, which device is rigged up to hold the shaft and delivery wheel P in place. This shaft should also be metal. Secure the beveled gears M and N as shown. These transmit the power from the upright shaft to the lower horizontal shaft. Provide the wheel or pulley, P, with the necessary belt to carry the power from this shaft to the point of use.
The tail board of the windmill is illustrated in Fig. 4. A good way to make this board is to use a section of thin lumber and attach it to the rear upright, E of Fig. 2. This may be done by boring a hole in the upright and inserting the shaft of the tail-piece. In Fig. 4 is also shown the process of fastening a gear, R, to the shaft. The set screws enter the hub from the two sides and the points are pressed upon the shaft, thus holding the gear firmly in place. The platform for the entire wheel device is shown in Fig. 5. The X-piece S is bored through in the middle and the upright shaft passes through. The tin run-way or ring is marked T, and the X-piece very readily revolves in this ring, whenever the wind alters and causes the wheel's position to change. The ring and ring base are secured to the platform, U. The latter is made of boards nailed to the timbers of the staging for supporting the mill. This staging is shown in Fig. 6, in a sectional view. The ring with its X-piece is marked V, the X-piece is marked W, and the base for the part, and the top of the stage is marked X. The stage is made of 2 by 4-in. stock. The height may vary, according to the requirements. If the affair is set up on a barn or shed, the staging will be sufficient to support the device. But if the stage is constructed direct from the ground, it will be necessary to use some long timbers to get the wheel up high enough to receive the benefit of the force of the wind. Proceeding on the plan of the derrick stand, as shown in Fig. 6, a stage of considerable height can be obtained.