ANCIENT ARCH IN JERUSALEM.
"We visited the Muristan, or site of the Hospital of the Knights of St. John, who were also known as the Order of the Hospitallers. There is not a great deal to see here, as the buildings are mostly in a state of decay, and some of the ground is covered with rubbish accumulated from the ruins. It is said that a monastery was formed here by the Emperor Charlemagne; afterward some rich merchants established a church and monastery on the spot, and later on the Hospitallers erected a convent where pilgrims were received and cared for. Perhaps you would like to know something about the Knights of St. John. We'll tell you what we've read and heard about them:
"The order was founded in the eleventh century, and established on the spot we have just visited. There were two hospitals or convents, one for men and one for women; but in the course of time the convent for women was removed to another part of the city, and the ground became the exclusive possession of the 'Knights Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem.' That was their official name, and under it they built hospitals or convents for pilgrims to the Holy Land in most of the seaport cities of Europe and along the Eastern shores of the Mediterranean.
"They not only took care of the pilgrims, but they joined in wars against the infidels, and fought on many battle-fields. A great number of noblemen from all parts of Europe joined the order, and they had a regular constitution and a long list of laws, which all were bound to obey. They had a military organization, and did a great deal of fighting, but were finally conquered and expelled from Jerusalem; then they went to the Island of Rhodes, where they lived about two hundred years, and were known as the Knights of Rhodes. They were besieged twice by the Turks, and were finally compelled to leave that island and go to Malta, where they built a strong fortress, and were known as the Knights of Malta. The organization practically came to an end in 1798, when Napoleon captured Malta and sent away the Grand-master. Since that time there have been several attempts to revive the order, but none have amounted to anything.
ARMS OF JERUSALEM.
"The costume of the knights was a black dress, with a white cross on the left breast, and you often see the insignia in jewellery and other ornaments under the name of the 'Cross of Malta.' Since their time the cross has been applied to the Crusaders' 'Arms of Jerusalem,' in whichthere is the Maltese cross with the crowns of the three wise men and the star of Bethlehem below, while there are two branches of the palm-tree and the word 'Jerusalem' above. These crosses are for sale here, and not unfrequently the pilgrims have the 'Arms of Jerusalem' tattooed on their wrists, to prove that they have been in the Holy Land.
KNIGHTS OF ST. CATHERINE.
"Every order of knighthood in the Holy Land had its peculiar costume and device, and all of them had a patron saint. The Knights of St. Catherine, for example, wore on their shields as well as on their breasts a picture of a section of a wheel pierced by a dagger or sword. The legend is that St. Catherine was ordered to be put to death by torture on a wheel, but as soon as she was placed on it the wheel was miraculously broken, and the executioner beheaded her. Immediately the body and head were seized by angels and carried to Mount Sinai; its locality was revealed to a monk in a dream, and the next day he and his brethren carried it to a convent that had been established in the wilderness near the mountain, and piously buried it. The building has ever since been known as the Convent of St. Catherine, and is of great assistance to pilgrims and others who go to Mount Sinai.
THE VIA DOLOROSA.
"We passed along the Via Dolorosa, and were shown the spot where Christ rested his cross on his way to the crucifixion on Mount Calvary. Then we traversed the street of the Gate of the Column, and followed the guide till he brought us to the Damascus Gate. We ought to explain right here that there are seven gates in the walls of Jerusalem. The most in use are the Damascus and Jaffa gates, for the reason that nearly all visitors to the Holy City enter and depart by one or the other. As their names imply, the Damascus Gate is on the road to the city of that name, while the Jaffa Gate is the nearest to the Mediterranean.The latter is also called the Hebron Gate, for the reason that travellers to Hebron depart through it.
"There are two gates wholly or partly walled up; they are the Golden Gate, on Mount Moriah, and the so-called Gate of Herod. The other gates of most consequence are St. Stephen's, which is supposed to be near the spot where Stephen was stoned to death, and the Zion Gate, which leads from Mount Zion in the direction of David's tomb.
"To make the circuit of the walls of Jerusalem would require a walk of about two and a half miles, but owing to the nature of the ground a pedestrian could not keep at all times close to the line he wished to follow. The present walls were made by Sultan Suleiman in 1542, but many parts of them were standing before his time, and some of the foundations are the same as they were two thousand years ago. Jerusalemhas not materially changed in its general characteristics since the time of Christ, and consequently it has not been difficult to identify many of the places mentioned in the Bible.
THE DAMASCUS GATE.
"We thought the Damascus Gate was very picturesque when we looked at it from the outside, and Doctor Bronson said it was considered the finest of all the gates of Jerusalem. Its Arab name isBab-el-Amud, or Gate of the Column, and it is constructed so that it can be easily defended against an enemy. It was built about three hundred years ago, and is supposed to stand on the foundations of one of the ancient gates, and there is a story that a stream of water may sometimes be heard flowing beneath it.
"There was quite a group of people outside of the Damascus Gate, some on foot, some on horses, and others on camels. A peddler of cakes and other edible things had set up his shop at the side of the road, and was engaged in weighing out his merchandise to those who wanted it. Instead of Fairbanks's scales he used the old-fashioned balances; he was not at all in a hurry, and as soon as his customers were gone he sat down in the shadow of a little shelter he had erected, and was evidently resting from his labors. A dog that had beensitting a little distance away embraced the opportunity, and made off with one of the cakes before the owner could interfere to stop him. The dogs of Jerusalem are quite as bad as those of Cairo, and ready to steal whenever there is the least chance of doing so.
"We will take a leap through the air from the Damascus Gate to Mount Zion, which we started out to see. We went to the Armenian monastery, which is also called the House of Caiaphas, and saw the stone which was said to have been rolled away from the door of the Holy Sepulchre, the spot where Peter stood when he denied his Master, and the yard where the cock crew at the time of the denial. The monks also showed us the prison of Christ, and other points of interest. Doctor Bronson says the most of these things are on very poor authority, but, of course, we gave no indication of any doubt concerning them while we were inside the monastery.
"Continuing our walk on Mount Zion, we came to a building inhabited by a lot of insolent Arabs, who demanded backsheesh before they would permit us to enter. They showed us an upper room which is said to have been the scene of the Last Supper, and the traditions concerning it are on better authority than those of the Armenian monastery. The tomb of David is under this building, but is not shown to visitors; the coffin is supposed to be in a deep vault under the foundations, but no one is permitted to go there.
"There is a story that a wealthy Jew came here once and wanted to say his prayers at the tomb of David. The monks, who then had possession of the place, refused permission for him to do so, and as he went away he vowed he would be revenged on them. The next year he came back with an order from the Sultan expelling the monks and giving the place to the Moslems, and they have had it ever since. The Jew said his prayers at the tomb, and then the vault was closed to everybody.
"We saw several other points of interest here, and then returned to the hotel. Our next excursion was along the Street of David to Mount Moriah, to see the site of Solomon's Temple and what remains of it. Down to quite recently no Christians were allowed to visit the Haram, or Sacred Enclosure on Mount Moriah, where the temple once stood, and which is now occupied by the Mosques of Omar and El-Aksa. Even now it is generally necessary to be accompanied by a policeman, or a janizary from the Consulate of your country, to protect you from insult. We had a janizary from the American Consulate, and experienced no difficulty in seeing what we wished to, though we were obliged to give quite an amount of backsheesh to get along.
VIEW OF THE MOSQUE OF OMAR AND THE MOUNT OF OLIVES.
"The Haram includes nearly a fourth of the space enclosed in the walls of Jerusalem, and the Mosque of Omar rises so high in the air that it is the principal object in any outside view of the city. It is supposed to have been built by Sultan Omar. There is some doubt on the subject, but there can be no doubt that it is a very beautiful building, and the architect knew what he was about when he planned it. The mosque is on the highest part of the hill, and on the thrashing-floor that King David bought for fifty shekels of silver; on the inside the rock is preserved in its original state and enclosed in a railing. From its position, and also from having the original rock preserved as we have described, the building is called theKubbet-es-Sukrah, or Dome of the Rock. It is an octagonal structure, and each of the eight sides is sixty-seven feet long.
"Doctor Bronson says this is probably the most interesting spot in the world, as it is revered by the adherents of three religions who have regarded it as a holy place through many centuries. The Jews revered it, as we learn from the Old Testament, and from many events in modern as well as ancient history; the New Testament tells us its intimate connection with the story of Christ's coming on earth; and the Moslems consider it the holiest place next to the Kaaba at Mecca. They believe Mohammedcame here in person, and at one time commanded his followers to turn their faces toward Jerusalem when saying their prayers. It is for this reason that they refused to allow Jews and Christians to visit the temple grounds, just as they will not allow them to go to Mecca at the present time.
"The Haram, or temple enclosure, is about one thousand six hundred feet long by one thousand wide: it is not a regular quadrangle, and consequently this measurement is not exact. There are several buildings there in addition to the two mosques, but none are of much consequence, and we did not visit them. We were allowed to walk through the Mosque of Omar, and went from there to the Mosque El-Aksa. We were greatly interested in the architecture of the buildings, and quite as much in the story of the guide who accompanied us.
"At the Kubbet-es-Sukrah he pointed out the place where Abraham was about to slay Isaac as a sacrifice, and the spot where the ark of the covenant was deposited, besides other places interesting to readers of the Bible. Then he showed us the footprint of Mohammed, where his foot last touched the earth before he ascended to heaven, and the marks of the hands of the angel who held the rock down to prevent its ascent with the Moslem prophet. In a cavern under the rock he showed the places, which are marked by small altars, where Abraham, David, Solomon, and Elijah offered up their prayers, and he pointed to an impression in the ceiling which is said to have been made by Mohammed's head.
"The Moslems have a great many traditions concerning the rock, and it is very evident that they have allowed their imagination free-play in describing it. They say the rock was brought here from heaven, and that a river from Paradise flows beneath it and waters the palm on which it rests. They also declare that the trumpet of the last judgment will sound from this rock; and one of their stories is that the rock is suspended over a deep abyss without any support. Our guide was a native Christian, but it seemed to us that he had told these stories so often that he half believed them, in spite of their opposition to his own religious faith.
WALL AT SOUTH-EAST CORNER OF THE TEMPLE AREA.
"From the buildings above-ground we went to the excavations and subterranean passages beneath. There was formerly some dispute as to the exact position of Solomon's Temple, owing to the difficulty of making explorations; but within the last twenty years many discoveries have been made, and the work of laying out the exact position of the Temple is still going on. The American and English societies engaged in it are entirely harmonious, and every year they are throwing new light on subjectsof great importance to students of the Bible. They have spent large amounts of money in excavations among the substructions of the Temple, and settled many points of dispute. Anybody who wishes the details of what has been accomplished is referred to the book of Captain Warren on 'The Recovery of Jerusalem,' and to the reports of the Palestine Exploration Society.
"Provided with candles and torches, we went among the substructions that were made to level the ground and prepare it for the building of the Temple. The arches and pillars would be no discredit to a modern architect, and in some places we saw large blocks that must have required powerful machinery for their transportation. These underground vaults have not all been opened, and their full extent is not yet known. During the time of the Crusaders these vaults were used as stables, and the holes where the halters of the horses were fastened may be seen to-day. In some places there are roots of trees that have run a long distance underground in search of water. The trees are evidently of great age, but we could hardly accept the statement of the guide that they were as old as the Temple itself.
"We returned to the open air after half an hour beneath the Temple, and found that our eyes were dazzled by the sudden flood of light. Welooked over the walls into the Valley of Jehoshaphat, and stood almost holding our breath as we saw the Mount of Olives, the Garden of Gethsemane, the Tomb of Absalom, and other objects whose names were familiar to us all. Below us was the bed of the brook Kedron, but dry and dusty as though no brook had ever flowed there. In winter, and after heavy rains, it is full of water; but ordinarily there is only a slender thread, and it disappears altogether in time of drought.
WAILING-PLACE OF THE JEWS.
"When we were through with our visit to the site of the Temple we went to the Wailing-place of the Jews, which is supposed to be part of the wall of the original Temple. It is a very solid wall of large stones, and has been a sacred spot with the Jews for many hundreds of years. Theycome here from all parts of the earth to weep over the downfall of their race, and the destruction of the Holy Temple. On Fridays they are seen in greatest number; but at almost any time there are several of them standing there with their faces against the wall, reading or reciting their prayers in a low, wailing tone.
"We had hoped to see many of them there but were disappointed, as our visit was not on a Friday. There were six or eight in all, and they did not look up when we entered the narrow court on which the wall fronts. They were all, to judge from their dress, inhabitants of Jerusalem, and not, as often happens, pilgrims from distant lands. One of the gentlemen connected with the Palestine Exploration Fund told us that he had seen two or three hundred Jews at the Wailing-place on a single occasion, and that they came from all the countries of Europe. In some places the stones have been worn smooth by the kisses of devout lips, and there is no doubt that the majority of those who come here to mourn are earnest in the expression of their grief.
'Oh, weep for those who wept by Babel's stream,Whose shrines are desolate, whose land a dream!Weep for the harp of Judah's broken spell—Mourn—where their God hath dwelt the godless dwell?'
"The Pool of Bethesda is at one end of the Haram enclosure, and, of course, we paid it a visit. Isn't it curious that there has been a city here all these many centuries in a place where there are no wells? Jerusalem depends altogether upon cisterns and pools for its water, and it is said that in the sieges of the city the inhabitants have never suffered for want of water, while the attacking armies have sometimes been compelled to bring their supplies of it from long distances. Some of the cisterns are very large, and hewn in the solid rock, while others are built of masonry and lined with cement. They are filled with water from the roofs during the rainy season, and great care is exercised to prevent its being wasted.
THE POOL OF BETHESDA.
"The Pool of Bethesda is oblong in shape, and on one side there are steps leading down to the water, of which there was very little at the time of our visit. The monks say it is the Bethesda of the New Testament, and they also call it the Sheep Pool. We looked in vain for the five porches, or arches, and were told that there is a doubt as to this being the real Pool of Bethesda, which some authorities locate at a deep shaft, or cistern, with an intermittent spring at the bottom, outside the walls of the Haram.
"Having seen this historic place we naturally asked for the Pool ofSiloam. The guide said it was outside the walls, and we would see it when we made the circuit of Jerusalem, which we did.
"We descended to the brook Kedron, in the Valley of Jehoshaphat, which we have already mentioned. The valley is a good deal choked with rubbish, which has been accumulating there during many centuries, and the tomb of Absalom is surrounded by a heap of small stones, which have been thrown there by the Jews. Every Jew who goes by the place thinks he should throw a stone at the tomb, and you can readily understand what the result has been. Doctor Bronson says this is a reversal of the old proverb that a continual dropping will wear away stone. The continual dropping of pebbles around the tomb of Absalom has heaped up a great mass of stone instead of wearing it away.
THE POOL OF SILOAM.
"The Pool of Siloam is in the Valley of Kedron, at the south-eastern termination of Mount Zion, where a little brook joins it, but is not a part of the main stream of Kedron. There is no Biblical placearound Jerusalem more clearly identified than this. Doctor Thomson says it is beyond question the pool where the man born blind was sent by Christ to wash, in order that he might receive sight. It is mentioned many times in history, and its waters are known to flow irregularly. The fact has been verified by several travellers, and was positively stated by the guide who took us there.
"The sides are broken down in several places, and a good deal of rock has fallen in. There is a recess at one corner where steps go down to the bottom, and we found several women descending these steps to bring water from the pool. As we looked from one end of the pool the walls of Jerusalem formed the background of the picture, and we carried our thoughts back to the time when the blind man came from the city to wash in the water of Siloam, that he might bear witness to the miracle performed by the Saviour of mankind.
"There is a small village near the pool. Its inhabitants are said to be Moslems, and they derive quite a revenue from the backsheesh they extort from visitors. We did not remain long at the place, as there were many interesting things to be seen in our walk, and our time was precious.
QUARRIES UNDER JERUSALEM.
"We visited several tombs hewn in the solid rock, but they did not seem of much consequence when compared with the tombs we had seen in Egypt. Of more interest were the quarries, which extend a considerable way beneath the city, and are supposed to have furnished the stone from which the Temple of King Solomon was built.
"We entered them near the Damascus Gate, descending into a hole that sloped rapidly downward, and soon found ourselves in what might have been a chamber of a natural cavern. The marks of the chisels and other tools of the workmen were plainly to be seen, and there were pillars of rock left standing to support the roof. We must have gone seven or eight hundred feet from the entrance before reaching the end, and in many places the way was so rough that we climbed rather than walked along. At the point farthest from the entrance there is a stone that was evidently abandoned when a few hours' additional labor would have detached it. The indications are that the process of quarrying stone was the same in Jerusalem as in Egypt. Wedges of wood were driven into channels and grooves and then swelled, by being wet with water, till their expansive force became too great for the stone to resist.
"Parts of these quarries are directly beneath the city, and they are so extensive that some writers have declared that the whole of Jerusalem might be buried in them. There is a tradition that a passage once led from the Temple to the quarries, but there is good reason to doubt its existence. We wandered about for some time in the quarries, and were glad when the guide brought us once more to the light of day."
Our friends made an excursion to the Mount of Olives, going out of Jerusalem by St. Stephen's Gate, and descending into the Valley of the Kedron, which lies between the hill and the city. Going down the hill from the gate they came in sight of the chapel and tomb of the Virgin, a low and certainly very old building, which is annually visited by great numbers of pilgrims. There are serious doubts as to its authenticity, since it is not mentioned in history till the eighth century, and there is no inscription about it to indicate that it was the tomb of the Mother of Christ.
The first object of interest was the Garden of Gethsemane; and for many visitors it is of more consequence than any other spot in the immediate vicinity of Jerusalem, as it is so intimately connected with the final scene of the Saviour's life. Frank and Fred could hardly restrain their impatience as they approached it; and we are safe in saying that every member of the little party quickened his steps as he approached the gate. But as soon as they were inside all haste was abandoned, and every voice was hushed as each one recalled the incidents of Christ's visits to Gethsemane with his disciples, together with the scene of his agony and betrayal.[7]
GETHSEMANE.
There are seven or eight olive-trees in the garden, and the monk in charge of the place points out the spot where Christ prayed, together with that where his apostles slept during the prayer. The "Grotto of the Agony" is a small cave, and the place where the apostles slept is supposed to be indicated by the marks of their bodies on the stone. The monks claim that the olive-trees are the same that were standing in the time of Christ; they are certainly very old, and some are of great size, but we may well doubt if they have existed nearly two thousand years. But there is little question that this is really the original garden; but beyondthis fact the statements of the monks should be received with hesitation. The garden belongs to the Latin monks; the Greeks have started a Garden of Gethsemane of their own farther up the side of the Mount of Olives, but are cautious about admitting visitors, as the trees have not grown sufficiently large to be passed off as the original ones of the beginning of the Christian era.
VIEW ON THE MOUNT OF OLIVES.
Here is Frank's memorandum concerning the visit to the Mount of Olives:
"From the Garden of Gethsemane we ascended the slope by a steep path which carried us to the summit in fifteen or twenty minutes, or would have done so if we had not stopped several times on the way to look back at Jerusalem. The summit of the hill is said to be two hundred and twenty feet above Mount Moriah, and consequently we looked down on the Holy City, and had its entire outline before us. We could trace the course of the brook Kedron, the Valley of Hinnom, the hills of Zion and Moriah, the village of Siloam, near the celebrated pool, and directly in front of us lay the Haram enclosure, where once stood the Temple of Solomon, but now occupied by the mosques we have already described. To the east, and far below us, were the blue waters of the Dead Sea, with the mountains of Moab bounding the horizon. Owing to the clearness of the atmosphere the Dead Sea appeared close to us, and it seemed not an impossibility to shoot a rifle-ball from where we stood so that it would fall upon its surface. The wilderness of Judea, the valley of the winding Jordan, the 'Mountain of Offence,' the 'Hill of Evil Counsel,' the heights of Bethlehem, and other places named in Scripture were pointed out by the guide. In fact, the view from the Mount of Olives includes so much of which we have read, that it is impossible to recall everything without a great effort of memory. For the biblical interest of the spot I cannot do better than quote the following:
"'No name in Scripture calls up associations at once so sacred and so pleasing as that of Olivet. The "Mount" is so intimately connected with the private life of the Saviour that we read of it and look at it with feelings of deepest interest and affection. Here he sat with his disciples, telling them of wondrous events yet to come—of the destruction of the Holy City, of the sufferings, the persecutions, and the final triumph of his followers (Matt, xxiv.); here he related the beautiful parables of the "Ten Virgins" and the "Five Talents" (Matt, xxv.); here he was wont to retire on each evening for meditation and prayer, and rest of body, when weary and harassed by the labors and trials of the day (Luke xxi. 37); and here he came on the night of his betrayal to utter that wonderful prayer, "O my Father, if it be possible, let this cup pass from me: nevertheless, not as I will, but as thou wilt" (Matt. xxvi. 39); and when the cup of God's wrath had been drunk, and death and the grave conquered, he led his disciples out again over Olivet as far as to Bethany, and after a parting blessing ascended to heaven (Luke xxiv. 50, 51; Acts i. 12).'
"'No name in Scripture calls up associations at once so sacred and so pleasing as that of Olivet. The "Mount" is so intimately connected with the private life of the Saviour that we read of it and look at it with feelings of deepest interest and affection. Here he sat with his disciples, telling them of wondrous events yet to come—of the destruction of the Holy City, of the sufferings, the persecutions, and the final triumph of his followers (Matt, xxiv.); here he related the beautiful parables of the "Ten Virgins" and the "Five Talents" (Matt, xxv.); here he was wont to retire on each evening for meditation and prayer, and rest of body, when weary and harassed by the labors and trials of the day (Luke xxi. 37); and here he came on the night of his betrayal to utter that wonderful prayer, "O my Father, if it be possible, let this cup pass from me: nevertheless, not as I will, but as thou wilt" (Matt. xxvi. 39); and when the cup of God's wrath had been drunk, and death and the grave conquered, he led his disciples out again over Olivet as far as to Bethany, and after a parting blessing ascended to heaven (Luke xxiv. 50, 51; Acts i. 12).'
A SYCAMORE-TREE.
"The hill is covered in many places with olive-trees, and certainly merits its name. There are also fig, almond, sycamore, and a few other trees familiar to the traveller in Palestine, and every foot of the ground that will produce anything is carefully cultivated. Several churches havebeen erected on the summit, the first as early as the fourth century, and the last in 1834. We went through the present building, which is known as the Church of the Ascension; there is nothing remarkable about its architecture, but it is a substantial structure, and will last a long time unless destroyed by invaders, like some of its predecessors. In the centre there is a sort of dome, which is known as the Chapel of the Ascension, and is supposed to mark the spot where Christ rose to heaven."
An entire forenoon was devoted to the visit to the Mount of Olives, and in the afternoon the party started for Bethlehem, a ride of less than two hours.
THE ROAD FROM JERUSALEM TO BETHLEHEM.
They went out by the Jaffa Gate, passing the Hill of Evil Counsel and the Lower Aqueduct, and winding among rocky hills similar to those by which they had come from Ramleh to the Holy City. They passed the convent of Mar Elyas, but did not stop to visit it, and their attention was constantly absorbed by the ancient and modern monuments scattered along the route. Their first halt was made at the tomb of Rachel, which is an insignificant building, with a dome above it, of the general type of the better class of tombs in Palestine.
THE TOMB OF RACHEL.
The tradition concerning the tomb of the mother of Benjamin (Gen. xxv. 19) has been well preserved through thirty centuries, and many generations have worshipped at this spot. It has been revered alike by Jews, Christians, and Moslems, and the spectacle is not infrequent of the adherents of three religions kneeling in harmony before this venerable structure. During the halt of our friends one of the party read aloud from the Bible the story of the death of Rachel. All remained silent, and with uncovered heads, till the touching narrative was ended.
From the tomb of Rachel the way led over hills and into valleys, and finally climbed the ridge on which Bethlehem stands. The situation of the place is quite picturesque. The town stands on a steep hill-side, and when looked at from a distance of half a mile or more, it presents the appearance of a series of terraces. The houses are low, and the roofs almost invariably flat; in this respect it has the general aspect of a Syrian town, and the position on the side of a hill gives an opportunity for thorough drainage.
ENTRANCE TO BETHLEHEM.
The most conspicuous building in the picture, as one approaches Bethlehem, is the monastery connected with the Church of the Nativity, and the whole structure appears more like a fortress than a religious establishment. Bethlehem would be of little consequence were it not for its biblical interest, as there are no natural or other attractions, and the streets are badly kept. The convent and church remind the stranger of thecastles on the Rhine and Danube, and with a little play of the imagination he may think he is looking at the crags of Drachenfels or the ruins above the Iron Gate. But as he ascends the last of the hills, and passes the massive gate-way leading into the streets, he finds that Bethlehem is not unlike Jaffa, Jerusalem, and the other towns of the Holy Land that he has visited.
Ali had sent the tents ahead in the morning, and when our friends arrived everything was ready for them. There is no hotel at Bethlehem,and consequently travellers must sleep in tents, or be lodged at one of the convents. It was the time of the Christmas festivities, and all the convent accommodation had been secured by pilgrims and others, so that the camp became a necessity for Doctor Bronson's party.
This was the first glimpse of tent life in the Holy Land for Frank and Fred, and they were delighted with it, but at the same time a trifle disappointed. "I thought we would have to 'rough it' in this country," said Frank, "but I don't see much rough work in this."
"Nor I either," replied his cousin, as he examined the tents and their equipment. "Just look at it," said he, "and say whether this meets your ideas of wild life."
Together they made an inventory of what was before them. Therewere three tents for the six travellers, and each tent was large enough for amply accommodating two persons with space for dressing and moving about. One tent was arranged for a dining-room, and the dinner was nearly ready to be served. There was a table large enough for six to be seated, and there were camp-chairs for all. Ali explained that after dinner was over the table would be removed, and two beds set up, as in the other tents. The height of luxury seemed to be reached when Frank pointed to the carpet which covered the ground beneath each tent, and was a welcome protection for slippered feet.
"Real beds, chairs, tables, carpets, and all the comforts of a home," said Frank; "there isn't hardship enough here to make it interesting."
"I thought," said Fred, "we might have to sleep on the ground in the open air, or beneath a tent like the shelter of the Bedouin. Then we could eat dates which we gathered ourselves from the trees, or perhaps we could get some of the grapes that we see in the pictures in our Sunday-school books. Here we are on fare like what we get at the hotel, and it isn't wild life at all."
"Wait a little," said the Doctor, with a smile. "We haven't fairly begun yet, and you may see some hard times before you are through with the country. Quite likely we may have a storm some night, and if it proves to be a regular old-fashioned Syrian storm, such as I once saw here, you'll have all you want."
Ali interrupted them to say there would be sufficient time before dinner to visit the "Milk Grotto," which was quite near their camp.
Accordingly they went there, and found a cavern that was reached by a flight of steps from the ground above. The roof is eight or ten feet above the floor, and the room, which is fitted up as a chapel, is about ten feet by fifteen. The tradition is that the Holy Family was concealed here during its flight into Egypt, and consequently the place is visited by most of the Christian pilgrims that come to Bethlehem.
VIEW IN BETHLEHEM.
They returned to the camp to dinner, and then went to the Church of the Nativity. Every step of the way they were beset by peddlers of ornaments made of olive-wood, mother-of-pearl, and other things, just as they had been surrounded by the same class of men in Jerusalem. The inhabitants of Bethlehem drive a large trade among the pilgrims, and are chiefly engaged in the manufacture and sale of souvenirs of the place.
The Church of the Nativity is not of itself a large building, but the convents connected with it, and belonging to the three rival sects of Greeks, Latins, and Armenians, cover a broad area. The church measuresabout a hundred and twenty feet in length by a little less in breadth. It is divided by Corinthian columns supporting horizontal architraves in such a way that the interior consists of a nave and four aisles. It is one of the oldest churches in the world, as it was erected in the beginning of the fourth century, and, though repaired from time to time, it is generally believed to retain its original form and characteristics.
The building is now in a somewhat dilapidated condition, and the roof, which has been several times restored, threatens to fall in. At least that was the case when our friends went there, and one of the boys asked, very naturally, why it was allowed to be in such a condition, when it was one of the most venerated churches in all Christendom, and there ought to be no lack of money for its preservation.
"The trouble is," the Doctor answered, "the religious sects are so jealous of each other that they prevent the repair and preservation of the church. No two of the three sects—Greek, Latin, and Armenian—will consent that the third shall have the honor of repairing it, and they will not agree upon an architect to whom the work can be intrusted without interference from any of them.
"The church and the grotto of the Nativity, directly beneath it, are parcelled out among the three sects. Each has its own altars where services are performed, and there are other altars which are common to all, but at different hours. Several times there have been fights in the sacred grotto between these rival monks. A few years ago one of the sects set fire to some decorations that had been placed in the grotto by another, and the whole place was filled with smoke, and the walls were disfigured."
One of the boys asked if there was any bloodshed in this affair.
"Yes," was the reply; "I believe two or three of the monks were killed, and others severely wounded. It was necessary to call in the Turkish soldiers to suppress the disturbance, and the hostility among the Christians is so great that a guard is kept there constantly to preserve order.
"It is said that the Crimean War owed its origin, in part, to a quarrel about the possession of the Church of the Nativity, and on several occasions the peace of Europe has been threatened by disputes for a few square inches of the floor of the sacred grotto!"
INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH OF THE NATIVITY.
During the above conversation the party had been walking through the church, admiring the beauty of the columns that support the roof, and listening to the chanting of the service at one of the altars in the side aisles. Pilgrims were kneeling at the shrines, or seated near the columns,and several monks were moving among them, or guiding strangers around the building. The Latin monks were easily distinguished from the others by their shaven heads, which contrasted in a marked degree with the tall hats of the Greeks and Armenians; and the boys observed that none of the rival sects said a word to either of the others. Evidently there wasa bitter hatred between them, and although they were all to be considered devout Christians, they did not follow the injunction of their Master to love one another.
THE PLACE OF THE NATIVITY.
The Doctor explained that there were two stairways descending into the grotto; that on the right being exclusively used by the Greeks and Armenians, while the other belonged to the Latins. As their guide was of the Latin Church they descended by the stairway on the left, and soon found themselves in the spot revered throughout all Christendom—the place where the founder of our religion was born.
Near the foot of the stairway they came to a niche in the wall of rock, and in front of it was a marble slab set in the floor, with a silver star in the centre. On the star was the inscription:
"HIC DE VIRGINE MARIA JESUS CHRISTUS NATUS EST."
("Here Jesus Christ was born of the Virgin Mary.")
Reverentially they gazed at the star—the star of Bethlehem. Pious pilgrims knelt and kissed it; the monks as they entered bowed low before it; voices were hushed, and the air was filled with adoration. The low roof, the wall of "living rock," the swinging censers, the glowing lamps, all seemed to tell that the place was one of sanctity, and earthly thoughts should here give way to those of heaven.
Over the star sixteen lamps of silver were burning, and they burn there from beginning to end of the year, and year after year their light is never allowed to become dim. The quarrels of the factions rage over the silver star; the lamps are parcelled among them—six to the Greeks, and five each to the Armenians and Latins. Over the star is an altar which belongs to them alternately; it is ordinarily kept plain, and is only dressed by each sect when its turn comes to possess it.
THE MANGER.
In his next letter to his mother Frank described the visit to the Grotto of the Nativity and the church above it. "We first," said he, "looked at the silver star, to which the eyes of the whole Christian world are turned, and after several minutes spent in front of it our attention was directed to the Chapel of the Manger. It is a little to the right of the place of the Nativity, and is a recess cut in the rock. The tradition is that Christ was once laid in this manger, and a few feet away from it is the Chapel of the Magi, where the three wise men came to adore him.
ADORATION OF THE WISE MEN.
"The whole grotto is about forty feet by twelve, and the ceiling isten or twelve feet high in most places. There are several passages and chambers connected with it; in one of the chambers is the Altar of the Innocents, which is supposed to be erected over the spot where the children slain by order of King Herod were buried. In another chamber are the altars and tombs of Jerome and Paula, who founded the Convent of the Nativity; along the sides of the principal grotto there are several oratories, which are said to correspond to the stalls in the original stable where the animals were tied.
"Every inch of the walls of the grotto is covered with richly embroidered cloth, and it is difficult to believe that the place was hewn from the rock. There are many lamps hanging from the ceiling, several of them adorned with jewels, and evidently costing a great deal of money. They are the gifts of kings and princes, and it is said that there is not room enough in the grotto to display a quarter of the splendid things that are sent here.
"Before we left the grotto we had an opportunity of seeing how the different sects regard each other. The Latins were holding a service at the Altar of the Nativity, and while they were engaged at it the stairway on the right, which belongs to the Greeks and Armenians, was crowded with the monks of those orders. Their manner was anything but reverential; during the service they whispered and laughed, and several times their laughter was not only visible but audible across the grotto to where we stood.
"One thing that jarred heavily on our feelings was the presence of two Turkish soldiers with bayonets fixed on their rifles; they belonged to the guard that has charge of the church, and two of them are constantly on duty in the Grotto of the Nativity, and close to the altar. The rest of the company was above in the church, and ready to be called upon at any moment to quell a disturbance. While the Latins were holding their service the men on duty were relieved: the tramp of the soldiers down the stairs and along the grotto, together with the clash and clang of their weapons, sounded strangely with the chant of the monks paying homage to the founder of our religion. Isn't it dreadful to think that only by force can order be maintained in this holy place?"